# Greenstuff v Milliput



## Iron Angel (Aug 2, 2009)

I have used milliput for almost all my sculpts, and it has worked excellently. I got some official Greenstuff the other day though, since that is what all the really good sculptors use, and I must say, I was expecting the substance to behave differently, but not like THAT.

I find myself having to be extremely careful with sculpting- When I accidentally touched something made of soft milliput, I could just stick some more milliput in there. Greenstuff, its much harder. It also doesn't get gooey with water in order to scrape a flat surface into it, at least not to the same extent.

However, even when soft, it is much more rigid. Milliput was very gravity-prone, requiring me to wait about 30 minutes for it to harden partially. Greenstuff is workable right away.

Any advice for a milliput user on how to get greenstuff to behave itself for me?


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## normtheunsavoury (Mar 20, 2008)

I'm terrible at sculpting but I prefer green stuff to miliput, gs is cleaner, doesn't fall apart and is, for me at least, easier to use. 

As for tips, keep everything wet, GS will stick to everything except what you want it to stick to unless your tools/fingers are wet. I've also heard using Vasoline can be helpful with getting GS to smooth out. Also, don't try and do everything at once, GS becomes much easier to shape into things like cloaks when it has had a short time to cure a little. And, finally, never buy GW green stuff, its a rip off, you can get loads more on ebay for a fraction of the price.


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

The color mix ratio affects how it reacts, can't remember which one is which but when you add more of one color it makes the stuff softer and it takes more time to cure. Add more of the other color and it is more rigid and cures faster.


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## Iron Angel (Aug 2, 2009)

Blue=rigid and hardens fast, yellow=softer. Looked that up, thanks for that advice!

I have to ask, in the package, both sticks are touching each other. How come you don't have a hard line of green down the center of them?


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## normtheunsavoury (Mar 20, 2008)

Some times you do, it depends on how long it been sitting on the shelf or how much the pack has been knocked around. A lot of ebay sellers supply the two halves in two separate tubes which avoids the problem.


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## Iron Angel (Aug 2, 2009)

So I should separate these two pieces. Got it.


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## Dicrel Seijin (Apr 2, 2011)

Iron Angel said:


> I have to ask, in the package, both sticks are touching each other. How come you don't have a hard line of green down the center of them?


You do, but that hard line is usually found in older packages. I have one of those. From the tutorials and articles that I've read, most recommend cutting that out before kneading it. 

I don't use greenstuff to sculpt but rather gap fill. 

I do recommend using Vaseline. It makes the GS much more workable. Just remember to wash the mini once more after the GS cures to get rid of the Vaseline on the surface. I forgot to do that once and couldn't figure out why I was having trouble with basecoating the mini.


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

Milliput is a clay based putty where-as greenstuff is an epoxy material. 

i)Use water or vaseline to lubricate your tools and fingers to prevent the green stuff sticking and marring the surface finish.

ii) If you're using it for sculpting and not just filling gaps then wait for it to cure before starting sculpting, about 20 minutes to half an hour. It's much easier to work with then and get it to hold the shape you want. 

iii) Unlike milliput adding water won't do anything other than making it wet. You can't create that gap filling slush with greenstuff. You can still sand, drill and file it however. Also unlike milliput it will remain somewhat flexible, unlike milliput which dries rock hard. It's much less likely to break or snap off. 

iv)If you want a smooth finish for greenstuff you'll have to 'polish' it. Essentially rub your finger or a tool and 'polish' it smooth in small motions. Or you could use clay shapers which are a great sculpting tool. By wearing latex gloves or Vaselining your fingers you can avoid fingerprints. 

v) A general sculpting tip is to always do it in stages, never try and do everything at once, you'll just wreck it. If you're sculpting an arm for example lay down your basic shape over a armature, let it fully cure, then build up the shape and muscle. Then finish you basic shape etc and then more onto details. 

vi) It's easier to slice excess off than try and blend fresh greenstuff into something already setting, so aim to make a little more than you'll need. 

You can try mixing a little green stuff into milliput or vice versa. Adding greenstuff to milliput will make it less flaky and crumbly. Adding milliput to greenstuff will loosen it up and reduce it's springiness and 'memory' (the tendency it can have, especially stale greenstuff, to return to previous shapes and positions). 

Also of interest is brown stuff (an epoxy like green stuff), which holds sharper edges. Ideally one would use green stuff for organic shapes and materials (like a cloak or face) and brown stuff for hardier materials and shapes (like armour). 

If you're interested in some more advanced or serious sculpting you'd be wise to check out pro-create putty. It's more suited to sculpting a mini from the ground up then green stuff or milliput. It's like a middle ground between the two.


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## Varakir (Sep 2, 2009)

Great thread :victory: As a historic milliput user i need all the help i can get with GS.



Rems said:


> Milliput is a clay based putty where-as greenstuff is an epoxy material.


Really helpful advice, but milliput is an epoxy as well.


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

Huh, is it? 

Well the important thing to remember is how differently it responds than green-stuff. 

As an aside GW's sculpting tool is an actual hobby product of theirs that's worth it. Also useful are dentist picks, clay shapers, toothpicks. Clay shapers are fantastic for getting a smooth finish and (with certain types) perfect for rounded or curved shapes which can otherwise be hard to do.


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## bitsandkits (Mar 18, 2008)

also should be noted that milliput comes in different types and colours, superfine for example will give you a really fine and sharp edge, also milliput is dirt cheap compared to green stuff, you can get a 100grames for about £2.50 which is about the same as several feet of GS, you can also mix different amounts of the two sticks of miliput to make a firmer quicker drying mix which is better for sculpting bulk items or a softer mix that stays open for longer by using more of the other stick.
Personally i only use Milliput as i have used it for 20 years and i just know it and how best to use it, but i cant seem to get on with GS, its one of those things i would love to sit down with someone and learn properly as i think sculpting is a skill i could realy enjoy.


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## Dînadan (Mar 7, 2009)

Not sure how relevant this is as this is a thread on Miliput vs Greenstuff, but personally I find Procreate a superior substance to Greenstuff. Overall it's easier to work with and it doesn't have Greenstuff's love of fusing to tools/fingers rather than what you're sculpting onto. As I've never used Miliput, I can't compare it, but if you're having trouble with Greenstuff, you may want to look into Procreate as an alternative.


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## Iron Angel (Aug 2, 2009)

I do Necrons, so not a lot of organic shapes. I'll look into this "brown stuff" and take a look at it.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

There is also a grey stuff which is firmer then green stuff but IIRC not as firm as brown stuff. All the various Stuffs will mix together as well.


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