# My new GK miniatures.



## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks 

I'd thought I'd post a few shots I took today of my new GK models. I have been a demonhunter player since 2005, and have taken a very long brake from 40k since 2006 to focus more on warmachine. The release of the new codex got me excited to pick this army up again though. Sad thing is, that I can no longer use my inducted IG troops (painted in red/white/black). And it's not like I had that many GK units to begin with, so the army got a soft reboot. 


The GK boxed set is awesome! It includes so many weapon options, that I decided to magnetise nearly the entire army. Every model now has the possibility to take different weapons through the use of 2mm diameter magnets (at least, as many as each boxed set allows). This required some minor conversions (such as making the two handed weapons into one handed pieces, but nothing too drastic. 


Anyway, the first squad is always the testsquad, and that got finished for 95% today (some minor things like some text on the purity seals etc still remains, but that's no biggy). So I took a few pictures and will show you the results:


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I hope you like them!


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## Cadian81st (Dec 24, 2006)

Very kool. How did you do the paintjob on the force weapons?


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

The forceswords are basically split in two halves. One half is blended from a dark blue to a light blue from the top to the bottom, the other half from the bottom to the top. 

The whole sword is given a basecoat of vallejo model color dark prussian blue.

Then I mix 50/50 dark prussian blue and vallejo model color medium blue. This is applied to 4/5th of the edge that you are blending, leaving only a little of the dark basecoat showing. 

I then aply pure medium blue (thinned down however) up from the 3/5 part upward.

Then a mix of medium blue and vallejo game color electric blue is made. This is used even more towards the end. 

Then some thinned down electric blue on it's own. 

Then the tips or base of the swords are done using vallejo game color sky blue. At that point, I use the skyblue to give the edges of the blades a sharp highlight by running the side of my brush along the edges. I do the same for the centre line of the blade. Be carefull to not have too much paint on your bush there, or it'll leave smudges and blobs. It's not like it should be a drybrush, but it's getting pretty close to that point. 

Anyway, once that highlight is aplied, I use vallejo game color blue ink and water it down to about 4 parts water, one part ink (so still relatively rich on pigment for an ink/glaze). I then aply 2-3 coats of this glaze along the blade. After the glaze has been aplied, I clean out my brush and draw the ink away from the sharpest highlights need the tip or base of the sword (you don't want the ink to pool up in there). 

After the glazes are aplied, I rehighlight the edges of the sword again with sky blue. I also run a few stripes along the blade to simulate the force effect. I'm not a big fan of the lightning effect (mostly because I cannot excecute it properly... )

For the final highlight, a thinned down vallejo model color glossy white coat is aplied to the very top and base of the blade (depending on the way you blended it, obviously). This should be very minimal however. 

Hope that helps!


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## hungryugolino (Sep 12, 2009)

You almost redeemed the poor choices of the design team. 

In all seriousness, those are some jaw-dropping paintjobs. Nicely done.


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## LordOfAbsolution (Jul 22, 2009)

very nice models and seeing how I'm waiting for some grey knights to show up and use Vallejo paints myself I'll defo. be using this technique. +rep


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## fatmantis (Jun 26, 2009)

*sob sob* wish i could paint like this *sob sob* great models


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## DestroyerHive (Dec 22, 2009)

> *sob sob* wish i could paint like this *sob sob* great models


Practice, and you will learn, young one.

I can honestly say that is an amazing job you did. Keep up the good work!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I have also writting a small tutorial on the magnetisation proces and the benefits that this proces brings. In case you were wondering about doing any kind of magnetisation proces, this can help as a guide.


*1. Finding the right size magnets. *
First of all, I started looking for suitable magnets. They'd have to be strong, so they'd have to be neodymium magnets (aka rare earth magnets). 


I tried various sizes, but 2 mm ones seemed like the best option allround. They allowed for enough weight carry capacity (up to 130gr according to the manufacturer), while being small enough to fit into the smallest bits (such as the hands).Even with the 2mm diameter however, it would still be a VERY close call on some bits, so you couldn't afford to be off centre. More on this later. 


I got them at this retailer: http://www.supermagnete.be/eng/index.php
Their prices were reasonable and the transport options weren't too bad. I'm sure there are other suitable retailers however, for those not living in the European Union. 
The magnets themselves are 2 mm in diameter and have a depth of 1 mm. So to match this, a quick trip to local hardware store got me a 2 mm drillbit. 










*2. Requirements: what will you need.*

It's always a good idea to think ahead and have a little list of what you are going to need. So here's a list of what you'll need if you plan to do ANY magnetisation project:
- A pinvice with suitable drills (I have 0,5mm, 2mm,3 mm and 4mm bits for this project).
- A toothpick.
- Superglue and some superglue accelerator. 
- A sharp hobby knife. 
- Greenstuff/plastic putty 
- A crapload of magnets. 

The pinvice is a pretty obvious one. You'll need to be drilling a ton of holes into your miniatures. The toothpick might be less obvious though. You'll be working with magnets and then tend to... you know... stick to metal tools. Having a toothpick at hand means that you'll have a “tool” that will not be affected by the magnets and that'll come in handy at some point, trust me on this... 

Superglue is pretty obvious as well, superglue accelerator will be extremely handy to get the job done faster. Remember to work in a well ventilated area with this stuff, or you'll be high as a kite in no time!! The rest are just generic things that are always handy when working on miniatures. Now lets get on with it!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

*Part 3: Drilling holes in the body. *

A good first start point, is a single body. This means that the legs will be glued on the base and that the torso (when the two halves are glued together) will be glued to the legs as well. You could magnetise these as well, but I see no point to this. 

The heads can be glued on, but can also be magnetised. For the powerarmoured knights, I glued the heads on for 4 out of 5 bodies. The fifth one would get an interchangeble head (helmet option for a regular trooper, or a bare head to be a justicar). 

Let that glue cure (plastic glue take a while to set, and you'll be manhandeling these models when you have at them with your pinning vice). 

If you are going to magnetise your army, here's what I suggest: 

BE CAREFULL WHEN YOU DRILL HOLES. THEY HAVE TO BE CENTERED!

One thing that can potientially go wrong, is to get the holes for your magnets off center. The magnets will stick to eachother, but the pose you'll end up with, is going to be all screwed up. 

To increase your chances of drilling the hole right in the centre, you are going to have to work with pilot holes. These pilots holes will make sure that even the larger drills will stay centered. 

Start by taking off all the moldlines and getting a nice flat surface for your shoulder sockets. Then, with your sharp craft knife, try and find the centre spot of the sockets, and make a tiny indentation in the centre. 

Even when using the smallest drillbit you have, you will have a hard time staying on centre, and you can be A LOT more accurate for this with your craft knife. After this indentation has been made, get the smallest drill out that you have, and drill into the body. Use this indentation as a guilde for the drill. The body will need 3 (of 4, depending on wether or not you want interchangable heads) holes drilled into it. One in each shoulder, and one right above the “bulge” where the backpack is going to end up. 










After you made these pilot holes, it's safe to have at them with the 2 mm drill. If you notice these aren't exactly on center, you can still do SOME correcting with your craft knife by making the whole slightly bigger towards the center. 











Then drill the hole with the 2 mm drill. Don't make this hole to shallow, or your magnets will sit “over” the surface and the pose will just end up looking weird. Don't drill to deep though, you'll run the risk of drill straight through the miniature, because these drill will go through plastic like a hot knife through butter! This is what it should start looking like. 



















Now on to the next step: Adding the magnets.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

*4. Adding the magnets to the body. *


PAY GOOD ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!

Obviously, magnets have a given polarity. So it's not a matter of jamming some magnets into tiny holes that you drilled out. If you make a mistake with your polarity somewhere, you're basically boned... because the holes you drill should be so precise, that the magnet is a really snug fit. That snug fit however, means the magnet isn't going to come out any time soon after the superglue has set. 

So what I suggest, is to do one FULL TEST model before you move on to any others. That one testmodel will determine the polarity of the magnets of all miniatures to follow. This is done so all the miniatures are full interchangable. 

Step 1: Getting the body done. 

Luckily, for the FIRST BODY you do, you won't have to be worried about any polarities, but you will have to start worrying about that once you start attaching the arms. Once you attached those arms, you can trace back the polarities that will be needed in ALL OTHER bodies from that point on. 

You first start by adding 3 or 4 (again, depending on interchangable heads) magnets to the body. It's rather easy for a straight surface luckily. Just take a single magnet and let it attach to a steel stave with a flat end and a noticably larger diameter then the magnet. This can be the “none sharp end” of your 4mm drill, or (as I have used) the back end of a sculpting tool. 

Just add some superglue into the hole, press the magnet in firmly, so it sits flush with the surface. Once it's in and the superglue has taken a bit, slide the holding stave down the surface and your magnet should stay in nicely and flush. Do this for all 3 or 4 holes in the body. 

Step 2: adding the magnets to the parts that will attach to the body. 

Explaining how to take polarity into account is pretty tricky using pictures, so I used my leet paint skills to make this simple diagram to show you how it's done. 










Like I said: check, check and double check before you jam your magnet into the opposite part. If it's not right, you are boned. Use that same method of adding the magnets to all parts and bits that you want to magnetise. I cannot do an example for every single magnet I used in these grey knights, but I have taken a picture of a magnetised grey knight that was “disassembled” to show you were all the magets went in this badboy. 










Now remember: this is only for a SINGLE weapon configuration. Adding additional weapons however should be easier and take less effort. If you want to add falchions for example, that'll only take you 2 extra magnets, because the arms already have them! Same deal with the personal teleporters. Swapping backbacks should only be a 1 magnet affair, so is the demonhammer or a halberd (if you convert them slightly to be carried by a single hand, rather then two → more on this later!). 

Step 3: Making the rest of your models. 


Once your FIRST FULL Grey knight is done, you can start doing the others. Using the method to get the polarity right, you can start working your way back to adding the magnets to the rest of you bodies. Just use the magnets in the arms of your first grey knight to get the polarity right for all the bodies of the other guys to follow. 

TIP: Make a mark on the bottom of the base or something, to remember wich guy was the “template” sort of speak, for the polarity of all your later miniatures. 

A little planning ahead, will get you pretty far. As an example of this, I will show you two pictures of a single body from a grey knight with two different weapon configurations. ALL these weapon configurations are interchangable to different bodies, because the polarities all match. 



















Doing this on a whole army scale takes some planning. Especially when you consider that the bottleneck for your options will be the shoulderpads.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

You need to submit that tutorial into the tutorial section. People have been asking for a magnet tutorial for a while and it was on my plate to do but this thing is spot on! Awesome painting as well.


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Fantastic work on the GK. Really like the look you have achieved.
Magnet Tutorial was very useful. You almost make it sound easy.


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

Fantastic paint jobs, and one of the best tutes I've seen on here. Well thought out and very clearly explained. Well done.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

How exactly do I submit this to the tutorial section? I tried once, but it didn't really seem to work at all...

Is there some kind of special way you have to enter these tutorials?


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

I am with the others. Your models look very nice and the magnets tutorial is one of the best I have seen yet. Just do a write up, go over to the tutorials section, in this case you are going to probably want to go to the converting section, and add the new thread. You will get a message that says that a moderator will review it. Once they have the tute will be posted in the tutorials section.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Well, I'm still waiting on mod approval for the tutorial. But in the meanwhile, I did manage to take a few pictures of my newly painted inquisitorial chimera transport. 

It's painted in the traditional demonhunter colors. I recently bought myself an airbrush. It used to be a black tank, cause I wasn't going to paint any tanks white by hand... But now that I have one, I thought it would be a good time to get to know the techniques and get a feel for the airbrushing itself. 





















I'm also killing two birds with one stone with this one. Like I said in my opening post. I used to be an oldskewl demonhunter player and I had a platoon of inducuted imperial guardsmen in my army. These were painted in the same colorscheme as the chimera. So I took a few side by side pictures with a single squad of the old unit. 





















Note that I also lost my insanity by sculpting extra armor bits on the guardsman AND then proceding to paint them white. Luckily, under the new codex... They might as well be modeled to be veterans. They also have purity seals sculpted on their shoulderpads. 

The old idea was that they were my inquisitor's personally trained guard. So I went for a more zealous, "holy look" for the entire army...

Hope you like the pics!


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Very nice looking Chimera and Guardsmen! The white on the Chimera is exceptionally nice. Good airbrush work!


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

The guardsmen and the chimera look very good. Nice weathering on the tank.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

VERY nice looking models, yeah you should see the tutorial pop up in a few then, I have a couple waiting as well.


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## Cadian81st (Dec 24, 2006)

First off, thank you so much for the magnet tutorial, very clear cut and easy to understand. 

Secondly, fantastic work on the chimera and guardsman. I especially love the white armour on the guardsman, its different without being too different, you know what I mean? Very nice. :good:


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## wombat_tree (Nov 30, 2008)

Really good work with the models, you are an excellent painter. Have some reputation.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Ok, so....

The work on the grey knights has continued as well. I finished the next 5 models and did a few minor changes to the first models. I had a go at doing a modest OLS around the eyes. 












I had a HEAP of varnish woes on these, almost ruining the models. The varnishI used was modelmaster dullcote (a european variant of the famous testors dullcote) #1560. I sprayed it on with an airbrush, but that made it fog up fiercely. In an attempt to not haveing to strip the minis, I applied a thick coat by hand of the stuff, and that did fix the foggy snowman effect. Now, the dullcote is really DULL...  Almost no shine to them whatsover. But I sort of like that. 

I also took a picture with the forge world dreadnought model. I have had this one for quite a while, but I did "update" the paintjob on it, to better mesh in with my new infantry models. 













I was very happy with the blue sheen on the silver on the dread. It came out pretty well. I have also started on the body of a second dread (also with the FW body). They'll need different weapons though. I'm currently waiting on an order with aegis defence lines for the TL autocannons to convert them into psyfleman dreads. Arms are of course magnetised for easy swapping. 

Again, excuse me for the picture quality. I'm not much of a photographer I'm afraid...


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

The GK are coming along very well. Look forward to seeing how you do the the TL autocannons, as Im currently thinking about doing something similar myself.


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## Chaosftw (Oct 20, 2008)

Elmir, I must say that is a top notch paint job. +rep for that no doubt. My only comment/criticism would be that they are very (what I call) "Plain Jane". By that I mean there seems to be nothing that makes them your own (I could be wrong, but at first glance they just seem like the ones right off the box).

Cheers,
Chaosftw


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

No, you are basically right there Chaosftw. The only thing that really sets these guys apart from other armies, is the magnetising... and that isn't really something you can tell (or shouldn't be, if you done it properly) when you look at the miniatures. 

That's the main problem with the GK imo. It's not exactly a converter/modellers wet dream. GW did a great job on the plastic kits because they are so complete... There isn't a weapon option/upgrade/whatever that's not provided within the plastic box. The only thing you sort of have to work on, is the vehicles... If you don't convert them slightly or add a bunch of iconography on them, they'll just end up being silver marine vehicles. Or you could go the easy way and fork over the cash for the FW bits. My third dread is going to be a spruced up venerable DN however. 

And colorscheme wise, it's a bit of a "boring army" as well... It's a single chapter with no succesors whatsoever. That doesn't really leave a whole lot of elbowroom in terms of creativity to begin with. 

I have seen some really cool black GK armies in the project logs, but that's not really my cup of tea tbh. I'm more of a traditionalist. But luckily, I find the red/white/gold/silver/black scheme very striking and nice (that's also the reason why my old inducted guardsmen are painted in those colors). :grin:

But don't worry, I'll be working with GS soon to make cloaked backpack (to represent purifiers). But first, I'm going to have to hammer these basic troops home. I despise unpainted miniatures on the table! As soon as those core units are done, I can get on to the more "juicy" stuff like the henchman units. Those really are a modeller's wet dream.


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## Chaosftw (Oct 20, 2008)

elmir said:


> No, you are basically right there Chaosftw. The only thing that really sets these guys apart from other armies, is the magnetising... and that isn't really something you can tell (or shouldn't be, if you done it properly) when you look at the miniatures.
> 
> That's the main problem with the GK imo. It's not exactly a converter/modellers wet dream. GW did a great job on the plastic kits because they are so complete... There isn't a weapon option/upgrade/whatever that's not provided within the plastic box. The only thing you sort of have to work on, is the vehicles... If you don't convert them slightly or add a bunch of iconography on them, they'll just end up being silver marine vehicles. Or you could go the easy way and fork over the cash for the FW bits. My third dread is going to be a spruced up venerable DN however.
> 
> ...


Fair enough, and thats the thing; if the traditional look is what you were going for then you hit it right on the head.

regardless great work!

Chaosftw


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## TheReverend (Dec 2, 2007)

Mate, these are all some awesome looking models!


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## Flindo (Oct 30, 2010)

very nice paintjob mate


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## The Wraithlord (Jan 1, 2007)

Am I the only one who can't see the pics?


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## Doelago (Nov 29, 2009)

The Wraithlord said:


> Am I the only one who can't see the pics?


I do see them.

Fantastic job dude. +rep


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Seems like it Wraith. Looking good, I can not wait to see you tackle the Dreadknight . It is a shame I am selling my Grey Knights off. Just to much other stuff to paint.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

The dreadknight won't be happening anytime soon I'm afraid. I really don't care for the model that much to be honest, and it's not like I'm going to be using them much in play either... The rifleman dreads are waaaaay to good for that... 

And this small little update brings you a few WIP sneak peaks of the TL autocannon arms that I'm making for my dreads. It's made from the aegis defence lines, with some shortening. I'm now adding some plasticard around a greenstuff core. 

It's only a first draft. But I'm making doubles for all the parts I'm cutting out of the thin plasticard. I'll see if I can find the time to make a "how to" guide on these weaponarms as well. Anyway, this is some crude WIP, the plasticard still needs to be filed down, some gaps still need filling, but it gives a good idea of what I'm planning. 









































The connection to the arm still needs some extra work. I had this DN body as a spare after using the FW one. Handy for some testfitting and getting the dimensions right. My FW dreadnoughts have magnets attached to them to attach them too, and the 4mm holes for them are already drilled out. 

I'll see if I can take the measurements for the plasticard pieces, in case this inspires some ppl to try it. The arms will then be further embelished with all the extra purity seals, reliqs and bits that come with the GK plastics. 

Enjoy!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Some updates on the first of my TL autocannon arms. I consider this one ready for primer... It's currently attached to my new dreadnought with the FW body kit. It's also WIP, but it's coming along nicely. 


























































I added the standard TL lascannon arm to it, to give an idea of scale. So, one down... 5 more arms to go! k:


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## MaidenManiac (Oct 2, 2008)

Approved!

Just adding the Aegis guns to the Dread without any extra effort looks too thin, bland and dull imo. A little plasticard gets you a damn long way


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

And the first of the psyfleman dreads has been finished. It's not the most stunning work I have ever done tbh, but it was my first venture into the world of plasticard for conversions, so some bits are a bit "rough" and that translates into the paintwork sadly... :angry:

But overall, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It's got a nice amount of bulk to it, and it ended up pretty close to what I had in mind when I started doing the conversion, so yeah... Me happy. And I'm sure it'll scrap loads of vehicles during games! 

Anyway, on to the pics!























































Enjoy! Any comments and critisism is ofc welcome.


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Nice work on the dread. Autocannon conversion looks fantastic. Look forward to seeing what you do next.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks, it's time for another update on my grey knights.

I have just finished the first of my 4 razorbacks. I tried a couple of things that are still relatively new to me, both with the airbrush and with weathering with pigments. This will also be my entry for the monthly painting challenge. 

So here it is, the first of my razorbacks:





































After seeig the tank and it's weathering, I figured my knights looked a litle too clean in comparison, so I used the pastel pigments that I used for the tank around their boots as well, to give them a little more unified look. So here is an update shot with 5 of my updated powered armored GKs. 










Enjoy!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Oh, and before I forget... I had to use a different setup with an old white T-shirt because it's so dark and stormy outside right now. Is this an improvement compared to the picture quality of the outside shots in your eyes? If so, I think I'll be sticking with that old rag of a T-shirt then for pics...


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## Karak The Unfaithful (Feb 13, 2011)

good looking models, especialy the dreadnought


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

I think the weathering looks pretty good on the power armored guys greaves and sabatons. 

I also think you might have overdone it on the Razorback's hull and the exhausts. And there is something that looks off about it, but I'm having trouble putting my finger on it - the level of opacity in the mud maybe? And the painterly look of the exhaust carbon accumulation. 

On the other hand I think the rest of the paint job is very good. The heraldry, red, and white look well done, as do the details on the tank's weapons and viewports. The weathering going up the ladder is a good idea as well.

The Psyfleman dread looks awesome. I'm really glad you didn't add weathering to him, I think it would take away from his clean lines and strong silhouette.

The only other thing I think the Razorback needs is some writing on the front armor's scroll.


Cheers,
Kreuger


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## docgeo (Jan 8, 2010)

1. I really like the force weapon technique you used....can you make a demo for it?
2. The dreadnaught is very sweet I like the autocannon you made...makes me want to do the same.
3. Weathering was done very well
4. Only thing I would add is writing on the GK purity seals

Doc


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Yeah, text still has to be added to the scroll and seals at some point. I'm waiting till I can get down to the arts and craftstore that stocks 0.3mm fine point pens to do them. My hand isn't steady enough to do any readable text...


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

docgeo said:


> 1. I really like the force weapon technique you used....can you make a demo for it?
> 2. The dreadnaught is very sweet I like the autocannon you made...makes me want to do the same.
> 3. Weathering was done very well
> 4. Only thing I would add is writing on the GK purity seals
> ...


The force weapon desciption is on the first page. I wrote a quick how to there. It's really not as hard. You just have to keep your paints nice and thin (yes, even if that means having to aply 2-3 coats sometimes  ) and follow the recipe that's on there. 

It doesn't even require an overly steady hand to do it (that's something I really don't have, so I have found many ways to overcome that flaw over the years). Just don't overload your brush when you aply the highlights when you run your brush along the sides. Go over a piece of tissue with your brush first, and it should be ok for highlighting.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hello again.

I have just finished assembleing the stormraven. This model has recieved quite a few magnets itself. Not necesarely all for weapon swaps/ gameing issues... but mostly to be able to transport such a giant "miniature"!

Here he is fully assembled. Only the see through bits are missing, but they'll be easy to glue into place after I have at this thing with the airbrush, because of the magnetisation. 










In order to be able to store this thing, the wings have recieved magnets to allow them to be taken off. This was a rather simple proces, requiring only 2 magnets per wing (although they'd have to be at least 4mm in diameter to cope with the weight. To give the attachment magnets of the wings some extra strong bond, greenstuff was added around the magnets to hold them in place better.










These wings attach to two other magnets that were inserted into the body. You'll also notice two other magets down the centre of the body. These central magnets hold the large block that sits behind the gunner cockpit in place. These were given strong magnets as well, because that block overlaps with the wings and adds even more strenght to hold them in place.










Two magnets were added to the central body near the front cockpit. This allows the front to be taken off as well. This is held by smaller magnets, as they don't really need to cary any real weight. 










The doors to the side of the body were magnetised as well to allow a swap with the hurricane bolter sponsons. They aren't really that usefull in game atm... but you never know what the next edition might bring. 










And finally, the gunner cockpit and the weapons on it were magnetised as well, as was the extra armor that covers the weapons. This way, I can easily swap weapons on the gunner cockpit. 



















The primary weapons were attached with very long, cilindrical magnets of 3mm diameter, and 10mm hight. It makes for a really strong bond. The normal axle holes needed to be drilled out a bit to fit the magnets however, but that was a pretty easy task. 

This will take a while before it's finished though. I won't really have the time to start it before the end of may... but it'll make a nice ambitious project for the june army painting entry!


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Clever use of magnets. Certainly make it easier to transport around.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks.

I got around to more painting instead of just assembling stuff. The first one is my first finecast model ever purchased. It turns out one of the two sprues was a bad miscast... but it didn't matter that much, since I used parts of the plastic GK terminators to make the right arm. The weapon is magnetised, so I can play WYSIWYG like all of the other stuff:





































And finally: this limited edition I had, was given a paint update to match his new found grey knight allies. Now that he ditched his battle bitches, he had to be given new clothes to hang witht he bros...




























That's it for now. Hope you like the pics! C&C is welcome ofc.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Looking nice. Love the use of the magnets. I tend to use a lot myself . Only thing that catches my eye is the holes on the bolter, they are uneven and a bit small.


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Superb work.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

djinn24 said:


> Only thing that catches my eye is the holes on the bolter, they are uneven and a bit small.


Don't you hate it when your bolter has flow problems?!

OT - Looks great man. They're both striking. That inquisitor shouts "Solomon kane!" in the best way possible.

Cheers,
Kreuger


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Fantastic work on the Libby Elmir! I love the quality of your silver metallics they are just fantastic. I am sooooo jealous of you having one of those LE Witch Hunters. He looks great as well!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks for the comments and feedback. I'll see if I can find a 1mm-1.5mm drillbit for the stormbolters at the hardware store. 

Also, I asked for morfangdaka to move this thread to the project logs... seeing how it's gotten closer to log proportion by now. I'm hoping to get the second razorback done sometime this week and play around a bit with lighting to take a few group shots of what's finished thus far. :wink:


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## Grins1878 (May 10, 2010)

Looking great man, keep it up! Love what you've done with the TL Autocannon, looks like a proper arm all painted up! 

Top work! Have some rep!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Update time!

The second of my razorback/rhino is finished. It was given different heraldry to make it more individual and was given some extra stuff from the GK kit to make it a little more GK-ish. I took some of the feedback to heart and tried to make the exhaust smoke a little less "painted on" by spreading the pastel chalk a little bit more before fixating it. I also slightly reduced the hight of the mud weathering by diluting the chalk towards the centre of the tank more. 

I also added some lettering to the scrolls with a fine micro-art pen. 

Anyway: pics say more then a 1000 words:
























































And finally: a few side by side shots with his college, the first tank I painted up. Despite the small changes to weathering and heraldry, I still think it came out pretty consistent. It will become a 4 car parking lot to deploy, so keeping it consistent is kinda tricky when your basecolor is a premix (I actually had to try and replicate it, because it turned out to be too little paint in the first batch). 




























That's it for now. I actually had to make a larger lightbox to get these pics taken. I imagine I'm going to need a really big box if I ever want to get army wide shots taken... :grin:

Enjoy!


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Only thing I can really point out is the smoke from the exhaust would be streaming back as normally when it is being pumped out the model is in movement. Not thick, pastes on but thin wisps would be trailing backwards, especially from the front one. The first one looks like it could use a bit more red/white on it sitting next to the 2nd one.


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Great work on the razorback.


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## Salio (Mar 29, 2009)

Everything i've seen in this blog is amazing! I can't wait to see some more. You have amazing patience with your modeling and your painting is top notch.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks.

I'm starting the work on the last of my 2 razorbacks, and I decided I would add a more tutorial like guide to some of my painting in here (sort of like at the start of the thread with the magnets). 

Now I cannot do a whole segment on the whole tank in one go. It would be way too many steps in one go to get a good idea of what's going on. But instead, I'll be splitting it up in different parts, or rather... colours. First up, is some step by step pictures of how I do my silvers on the vehicles. Note that it's very similar for the infantry models. 

Silver:

First off all, I use an airbrush for all my basecoats. It's a fast way to get things done. I always start from a black primer. I don't just spray the metallics on there however. I start layering basecoats underneath the metallics to get a very subtle sheen to my metallics. 

Sadly, it doesn't really show that well in the lightbox. Mainly because the metallic pigments reflect a lot of light, so any subtle variations underneath it don't really show in high light enviorments (and that's essential to take good pictures). It's worth doing imo though, because your army will never really be in these ideal lightboxes and this takes that into account. 

Over the black primer, I add a dark blue base, leaving the black only in the deeper recesses of the mini. A few thin coats are applied with the airbrush:



















Next up, I aply some highlights to the vehicle with white paint. This is sprayed to the edges to give it an "edge highlight" although it is by no means a fine line. 



















I'm not too bothered with the deepest recesses in the armor for these tanks, because I know that they'll just be painted red in a later stage. I would go over them with black again if I were aiming for a tank with an even finish. It's quite crude work at this stage, but that's ok... this shouldn't be taking too long to begin with. They are just layers underneath your "main color". 

Finally, I aply a mix of 50/50 vallejo air model steel and vallejo air model gun. This is furthere thinned down with a mix of windex and flow improver. It's a really thin, slightly transluscent layer of metallics that covers the basecolor. 



















This is when the airbrush work stops. There is a very subtle color variation within these metallics. Not nearly enough to give the model any depth however. So now is the time to do some brushwork. The deep areas are shaded with GW blue asurmen wash (none diluted). The idea is to build up shading, and it's a somewhat lenghty proces (compared to the speed of the airbrush at least!) 

Next, the deepest parts are given a diluted asurmen blue wash with a very small amount of black ink in it (just enough to make it dark blue, without it going pitch black). 

After the washed, the edges are picked out with vallejo air model silver (by hand however). This cleans up some wash smudges here and there. After that stage is complete, I usually seal in the paint with a first coat of model master dull cote varnish (a hand applied variant of testor's dullcote). The pictures below are taken BEFORE the sealant is applied. 



















So now it's time to seal this (as airbrush paint is quite vulnerable because it's so thin). And after that, it's time to add the other colors and when all that is done, I smudge them up with extra weathering and pastel chalks. I do tend to add a few more final highlights with silver over the matt dullcoat, just to "revive" some of the metallics. But it's not strictly needed. 

Infantry requires similar steps btw. I just don't bother doing the blue as a subcoat because the armor plates tend to be too small to even notice. 

Hope you like it. Feel free to ask any questions you may have.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks,

I always have a crapload of different things going on at various stages. Today, I finally finished the third 5-man squad of power armoured grey knights. So some pictures!










To seperate them from the first squads, I opted for a simple 2 tone heraldry with red-white on their shoulders:










The army wide shots I'm trying to take, are a tough nut to crack. Getting a decent focus going is proving the most tricky, and I find myself lacking a large enough lightbox to take the pictures in. Amongst several craptastic pictures, there was a decent picture however. So here it is, most of the models I have completely finished by now:











It's starting to come together rather nicely. Once I finished grading all my exams, I'm hoping to be able to finish some larger projects, like the stormraven. And I plan on indulging myself on the terminator squad I have assembled and magnetised. These will be painted individually, unlike the power armored ones. So the quality of the paintjob should be a tad higher. 

Hope you like it!


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## Firefighter X (Apr 21, 2010)

I find myself sitting here feeling like an absolute douche. Let me explain. After looking through all 6 pages of your exquisite P-Log, ogling over your gorgeous, masterfully painted miniatures, and wishing I had the time, pateince, and skill to replicate what I've seen you do, I end up with the most miniscule nitpick imaginable. I totally blame my O.C.D. for this btw. Here it is. The scrolls and parchments on the shoulder pads could use some lettering / names on them. After spending the time to bring your force up to this level and lavishing such attention on your army, it only seems natural to finish them off with that last detail.

I love your work. Top shelf stuff mate. You are a master of your craft.

+rep 

FFX


ps. .SO Subbed this one !!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Firefighter X said:


> Here it is. The scrolls and parchments on the shoulder pads could use some lettering / names on them. After spending the time to bring your force up to this level and lavishing such attention on your army, it only seems natural to finish them off with that last detail.
> 
> I love your work. Top shelf stuff mate. You are a master of your craft.
> 
> ...


Oh, something will be done with the parchments. I'm just not sure what. I really don't fancy putting individual names on all of them. Just some scriptures most likely. I'm still a bit up in the air on that one..

But if I do want to put some script on it, it'll be done with my micro-art pen. And that will require the varnish to cure longer then 24 hours. These pics were taken as soon as the varnish was no longer shiny.... :grin:

It's a ritual: stuff has had it's final coat of varnish, and I immediatly break out the tripod, the camera and the lightbox. :wink:

Oh, and thanks for the rep!


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## TheReverend (Dec 2, 2007)

Forgive me if I have got the complete wrong end of the stick but I don't understand why you go through all that layering just to then airbrush the tank silver?! seems like a lot of wasted effort. don't get me wrong, your stuff looks great, but surely you don't need to do all that undercoat work?

Rev


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Well, it's not really noticable on the camera in the lightbox. There is too much light reflecting on the metallic pigments to tell that there is anything underneath it. It's one of those things that you have to see IRL to notice, it's only noticable in darker enviroments, but those make for crappy pictures. 

It's not a lot of effort though with an airbrush, far from it. It takes less then 20 minutes to do. But I do have a picture that can show the comparison between a darker vs a more light enviroment:

Consider this picture










vs










The first one has much lower light setting (I believe only 1 lamp and a white T-shirt) Whereas the second picture has 3 lights shining on it, interupted camera flash and a full white lightbox around it. 

In the first picture, the blue sheen that is created through the underlayer is more apparent. It's tricky to explain, but these things go "blue-ish" when it gets darker, instead of more "grey-ish" that you would get with just silver metals.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

This is just a silly little update, but I'm proud of it none the less damnit!

My GK librarian won the local "finecast painting competion" ran by GW Antwerp. It's a nice little confidence boost anyway... 

For those on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.250765551605474.81969.204534102895286

*EDIT* I don't even care that there were only 4 competitors!!


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Congrats dude!


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## Marneus Calgar (Dec 5, 2007)

elmir said:


> This is just a silly little update, but I'm proud of it none the less damnit!
> 
> My GK librarian won the local "finecast painting competion" ran by GW Antwerp. It's a nice little confidence boost anyway...
> 
> ...


That's awesome, at least you can win, I came second in a competition that had two people in


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

And to follow up, the librarian also made it to the "what's new today" section on the GW site:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/blogPost.jsp?aId=17600001a

Along with Gareth's insanely awesome GKs (who do outshine mine  ), but that's two heretics on a single page... 

PS, sorry for the lack of updates, but it's kinda hectic now, since I'll be moving house soon...


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Nice work elmir!!!


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Congratz man, nice job!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Thread revival time!

With the new place finally comming together, I have finally found a little more time to get painting done! 

So I started work on a model that I had previously assembled: the stormraven.

The stormraven is a pretty ugly model because of it's odd, "stumped" shape... So it's something I tried to minimize with my paintwork. Vertical lines slim ppl down, so following this logic, I tried to make it look sleeker then it really is:























































And to follow up, I have made a few more army shots in my new light tent setup. This is where the army stands now:










Hope you like it! It feels good to be able to paint again in the new setup I have going now. :wink:


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Storm Raven is looking good mate! Love the weathering! Your force is really shaping up!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey hey folks,

Update time for the grey knights. Seeing how the stormbird was the most recent addition, it was time to finish the deadly cargo it delivers. So I started work on my paladin squad. Their paladin status is visible in their white helmets. If I want to swap them out to regular termies, I'll just give them the alternate helmet style in silver metallics. 

I wasn't too keen on using the backpoles provided in the box. I think they look a bit silly on infantry... so I'd much rather use them to give my tanks some more goodies. 

Anyway some pics:



















And, of course, the magnetisation is basically all over the place, so repositioning them is always an option if you think the pose is a bit daft:










So only 2 more to go and the squad will be complete, ready to be flown in from the skies with their librarian. It's fun to see the army shaping up with each addition 

Hope you like it, feedback and CC is always apreciated.


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## Medic Marine (Jun 28, 2009)

Another standard setter, always a pleasure to see what come off your painting table. I particularly love the force weapons.


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## louisshli (Aug 19, 2010)

Absolutely fantastic work you got there..... the force weapons are very nice and every single mini is consistently top-notch. Great stuff!! +rep and keep it up.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Ohhhh Elmir, this is very very sexy mate! Super job on the power weapons and I really love the weathering effect on you GK's, do you plan on adding anymore or is three it?...Keep up the great work man!

Rep increase!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Well, 2 more of these paladins to start with. Then it'll be 5 more power armoured ones and their rhino. Once that is complete, the first 1500 points of the army will be finished.


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Another fantastic unit man!! Loving your GK!


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## d0m (Nov 5, 2009)

Looking great, elmir! Have some rep.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hi everybody

I finished the last of the paladins to make the squad complete. So picture time!



















And a few individual shots of the 2 most recent additions:























































Enjoy.


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

Yet more stunning work, well done.


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Really cool looking pieces elmir. The weathering is very realistic.


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## troybuckle (Nov 24, 2010)

Awesome terms man very neat work.


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## Alexious (Apr 13, 2009)

Nice work. Unsure of the weathering but I never do it... it really is a personal thing. Only thing I can suggest... nice deep brown for your base sides. Apart from that well done.


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## rich11762 (Jul 18, 2010)

Some lovely work there mate


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks

I'm slowly picking up the Grey knights again after a few mad weeks of terrain making frenzy. I almost got my justicar finished. It only needs a bit of writing on the seals and some static grass on the base. 





































I was quite happy with how the face turned out. Good thing about this guy is that his head is interchangable through magnets... But that also means he can look into the camera in most shots! 

See you next time


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Nice work once again elmir. I also really like the face.


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## Daemon Prince Paintbox (Feb 21, 2011)

I hate you....they're sickeningly good. I challenge you with my Daemons! Ha....we all know Daemons would best those walking tin cans. 

Keep up the solid work.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Ouch! Looks like someone is getting a Thunder hammer to the kidney! Great job Elmir, Im digging the blue hugh on the metalic armour.


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## rurik (Jun 22, 2011)

your work is very impressive. as i told you in another forum. Here you hasn't update your paladins?

that face is very good.
i would add some lighting. but just a little.

i have almost the same model. this is how i painted it.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Strange, my paladins are on the previous page, and I don't think there would be pictures on other sites that this plog doesn't have. It's definatly always the first one I update and the one I follow up on the most rigorously 

Thanks for the kind words btw folks. Ot's always a great motivator to keep going on these projects


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

More metul bawxes!

This time, it's a rhino hatch though. To try out a 10 man strike squad with psybolt upgrade and 2 psycannons for tophatch fun. 
































































Next up should be 4 more strike squad members to join the justicar. Enjoy!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

And some more PA GKs got finished so I can finally take a FULLY painted 1500p list to my LFGS this thursday to see who's up for a fight. 

I still have to finish the scriptures on 3/5 of these guys (I tend to wait 24h to let the varnish fully cure first, I did tear some of it off last time by being impatient), but other then that these are done. 




























Squadmarkings are done by swapping out the red and white on the shoulderpads. The other groups have either fully red, or white left and red right. 

Anyway, that's it for now, I'll try to get some pictures up soon of the full army and then after that, I'll be picking up a few WYSIWYG issues that are still left in the army and refurbish an old landraider with FW bits to transport another terminator squad (yet to be assembled). 

Till next time!


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

As elmir your GK look fantastic! Congrats on the 1500 points painted.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

So, here's the pic of the finally finished GK army:



Sorry for linking to the gallery from another forum, but I really cannot get the heresy one to work. Everytime I try to upload a pic, it uploads something... but nothing shows in the gallery. 

Anyway... The picture is quite high res, so clicking it to zoom in can be done. It's possible to check each unit individually. Enjoy!


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## Red Corsairs (Jun 8, 2008)

The Grey Knights look fantastic, the eyes and nemesis weapons are brilliantly painted.

As for the gallery, perhaps this can help? - http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9319


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I'm having the same issue as the last poster in that thread. It's uploading something... but then nothing shows up after the upload is complete


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

elmir that is one sexy looking GK force! Well done mate. I am really impressed with the speed you are able to churn out quality looking models.


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## Orochi (Jan 28, 2009)

REALLY don't want to sound like a twat, but I can see a few mold lines here and there. Main ones are those running along the top of the terminator's arms and one on the underside of the PAGKs TH.

The painting however, is simply superb.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

You are right. There are some left on a few miniatures. I'm not always that carefull to remove them sadly. 

I don't like assembly and cleaning. It's the only part of the whole modelling proces that I hate doing. I only get thourough on them when I'm doing pieces for painting competitions and I slack a bit for gaming mini's.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

Elmir they're gorgeous! love them, I really do! don't worry about the mould lines, everyone has pet hates I guess  (mine is eyes, gun barrels and gems  )


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Guess the new 6th edition allows me to fuse my old guardsman back into my GK army through allies.

So I refurbished some of the guard and took a few shots of the army as it stands now:










It's getting too big to still have full army shots in the lightbox... k:

And a few detail shots:





































Enjoy!


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## .Bragg. (Mar 7, 2012)

Um-hmm! That's some well displayed GK! Outstanding character across the vehicles.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Took them to the photobooth again for a little update:

















































































































































Hope you like them!


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## spanner94ezekiel (Jan 6, 2011)

Looks awesome, especially the Guardsmen! Can we see a close-up of the Inquisitor model though? - I can't really make him out too well.


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## The Wraithlord (Jan 1, 2007)

Absolutely beautiful Elmir, just tits.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

stunning mate, i think you ki bashed the autocannon arms on the dread, what bits did you use?

+rep


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Scratchbuild actually... I'm working on the second set of arms as we speak. I'll try to get a few shots in, but I'm waiting on my memory card right now (I shot a few pictures of a wedding last weekend... and the couple asked me for the card to have the pictures). 

So I'll see what I can do. It's basically lots of plasticard and lots of greenstuff... Around the guns from the aegis defence lines.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

And the conversionwork for the second psyfleman dread configuration arms is done. All that remains now, is a lick of paint and we'll be closer to WYSIWYG!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I've been reworking my old inquisitor lord from the Ordo Malleus too. He used to wield hammer and plasma pistol, but that's no longer an option... So he now has a magnetised stormbolter on his bracer, wich can be swapped out for one of the terminator psycannons or incinerators as they are now fully "compatible". 

Also redid 2 of my old henchmen a bit to serve as servo skull markers in game.


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## Orochi (Jan 28, 2009)

I do love this blog!

If you're taking allies... why not get a demolisher? Fits the close up nature of GKs well, no?


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Orochi said:


> I do love this blog!
> 
> If you're taking allies... why not get a demolisher? Fits the close up nature of GKs well, no?


In progress... 

But sadly, I got a REALY old kit (with metal components still) at a local dealer and I'm hoping to get the extra armorplates somewhere to cover the tracks.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

Dude he looks SO cool and I love the dreads arms, I'm going to steal that idea entirely. How did you pack out the arms? or didn't you?


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I'm not entirely sure what you mean with "pack out the arms". 

The arms are the aegis defence line cannons, with the central axis removed. This brought the guns closer together (much more like the TL LC arms) when they were glued together. A magnet was then installed by drilling a hole into the arms to have them hanging at what seems like the correct height for me. 

The rest is just plasticard around a greenstuff core.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

WOW Elmir, impressive, really! Great job all around, everything looks freaking sweet man. 

Keep up the great work man!

Regards,
DoE


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Absolutley stunning additions elmir. The inquistor and the converted Rifleman Dread are both top notch


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=3400036 Gratz for the limelight dude.


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## Lethiathan (Nov 11, 2011)

Yeah, I agree with Scho, grats on the post, also if your in need of more track guards I have some spares lying around that i could mail to you.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Oh sweet! 

It's kind of you to offer lethiathan, but I did manage to get a trade here from a local IG veteran...


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks

Update time:

I have recently bought a valkyrie for my guard and converted it to a vendetta using the TL lascannons that I had left over from my GK razorbacks (TL LC really isn't an appealing option compared to psyback for knights anyway). 

Dirt easy conversionwork, since those lascannons fit together perfectly and have a perfectly flat area to glue the weapon attachments to. Only took a minor amount of cutting. I also cut away the powercable from the lascannons. Again, easy as pie...





































The cockpit is still see through, but it's been tinted with aqueous hobby colour smoke blue (very similar to tamiya clear paints)... It does show in the reflections of some pictures. 

Hope you like it!


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

An exceptional looking piece mate. The weathering is top notch.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks man. It's actually a whole lot easier to do weathered whites than clean whites if you ask me 

Did a few experiments on this one with oil washes. That stuff get some funky results but daaaaaamn, does it take forever to dry... Took me 3 days after applying that wash before I could handle the model again. 

BUT 502 Abteiling modelling oil colour "Engine Grease" is awesome stuff 

Got to love the MIG products


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## KjellThorngaard (Oct 4, 2010)

Congratz on the GW plug Elmir. I haven't been on tons lately, still trying to catch up after a couple weeks of holiday travel.

You are building up an incredible army. I especially love your vehicles. Smooth painting, a coherant color scheme, nice details, all roll together into beautiful models. Seeing waht you have done pushes me one step closer to finally picking up and airbrush.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Did some conversion work to bring my guardsmen a bit more up to date as the inducted force. 

The new tank commanders are a great way to get some heavy armor into my GK force, along with some cheaper scoring bodies: 

So here's my LR count as pask in punisher: 



















and his excecutioner sidekick: 



















The excecutioner still needs a bit of highlighting on the reds and some weathering (along with a searchlight), but it's coming along nicely.


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## Haskanael (Jul 5, 2011)

this is a great army o-o looks great too,


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

What a great project log! You certainly have some mean painting skills, and some mean patience to get through using materials that take three days to dry!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I'm doing a Dreadnight conversion based on a the Spanish GD winner 2 years ago now.


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

Holy crap your stuff is spot on. Well done!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Paint applied. I think I may just have a new favorite model in the army! 














































Pretty annoying conversion to make, but very easy to paint... Now BURN heretics!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Loving to see such well done grey knights. Good job!


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Nice conversion of the knight! Looks better than the original sculpt.


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

elmir said:


> Paint applied. I think I may just have a new favorite model in the army!


Damn dude, that thing actually looks awesome! Very good job


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## CLT40k (Jun 18, 2010)

Really well done!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks, I'm actually quite happy with how he turned out as well. 

I'm getting back into gear to add more to this force. I'm a teacher and I'll now have 8 weeks off to work on a bit more. I do have a few commissions running at the same time, but I'm sure I'll find time to expand my army as well


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

More terminators!


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## Asamodai (Oct 19, 2008)

Really nice stuff. I like that Dreadknight conversion.


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## Warpath (Nov 27, 2007)

Taken me a while to go through your project log but well worth the time. Really great work, the guard tanks are awesome.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks man, I've not been sitting still on this army...

I'm expanding the guard further by adding a blob or 2 of 50 grunts. I started on the first batch (pretty quick painting, but it can still be updated as I get more time). 

I managed to score a ton of guardsmen second hand. Many of them new, some painted. But I started on the new blob first: 

After assembly and cleaning:










Then, doing the bases step by step, showing what I use to do it: 










So, some sand, PVA, some pots to water the PVA down, some small stones and some corkpieces. 

I start by just applying PVA to the base (only slightly watered down for easier flowing)










I then apply a bit of PVA to the bottom of a corkpiece and then glue that to the base: 










Next, it gets a bath in this mixture of sand and other debris: 










Left to dry: 










Once it's dry, I apply some random patches of some more PVA: 










And then finally, some rocks are added on those new patches: 










That's it for the basing. I'll add some pictures of the painting process soon. 

Meanwhile, the second blob was painted, but that's been stripped with isopropanol (tip, remove models from their base so you don't end up using a ton of isopropanol... new bases cost next to nothing anyway on ebay).


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## Tugger (Jul 22, 2013)

elmir said:


>


Wow man. Wicked


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Entered these in the local GW "the fang" painting competition in Antwerp. I won best squad and best 40k large monster. I also got first in 40k single model, but that was done on a model I have painted for a commission for a client... So it's not part of my GK army. 









































































These pictures were taken by the local photographer at GW.


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## Wookiepelt (Jan 29, 2013)

Well done there! :clapping: :chuffed:


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

elmir said:


> that's been stripped with isopropanol


Whoa, you mean good ol 99% works to strip models?! I have had plenty of luck with Simple Green, and I guess it's about the same cost for either now that I think of it....but damn, iso would have been easier to find.

Those GK look terrific, it's no wonder you won that painting competition. Great job! :drinks:


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

ntaw said:


> Whoa, you mean good ol 99% works to strip models?! I have had plenty of luck with Simple Green, and I guess it's about the same cost for either now that I think of it....but damn, iso would have been easier to find.
> 
> Those GK look terrific, it's no wonder you won that painting competition. Great job! :drinks:


Thanks.

And yes, isopropanol works like a charm. I even managed to start taking all the paint off after the models were a mere 3 hours submerged in that stuff.


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## SonofVulkan (Apr 14, 2010)

Some stunning stuff here. Well done on the painting competition. :clapping:


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Cheers. I got to cracking on my second Nemesis dreadknight. They are fun models to work with... So maybe it's not the end of the world that the codex has been reduced to spamming them to be competitive: 














































Still some touch-ups and some final highlighting to be done, some details too... but he's ready for the table top!


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## Archon Grimherald (Apr 10, 2014)

that thing is a work of art. I dont like the rules for it (that is neither a monster nor a creature its tony stark in the hulkbuster armor i mean a helbrute is more monster than that thing but anywho) but i have to say that it looks wonderful. the sword pose is just awsome


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Lovely stuff, and I think the FW brass etches look great on that buckler you've constructed for it!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I'm now working on my third dreadknight. Soon, I'll have the apocalypse formation!










Don't worry if the halberd blade doesn't look straight yet... all if it is still in sub assembly and has not been glued tight. I still have to go to the artstore to pick up brass tubing to slide over the brass rod core. Just so the halberd itself looks a bit more sturdy. 

Then slap the odd purity seal on it and we can get ready for painting the whole thing...


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks, I also did a few PA GKs to join the ranks: a squad of purifiers and a squad of interceptors. 




























And yes, those are psilencers on a purifier squad...


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Third and final dreadknight is finally done. I'll see if I can take some shots of the dynamic trio sometime soon! 





































This was quite a fun conversion to do, because it was also the first time I attempted scratch building weapons out of plasticard and greenstuf (with the odd bit of brass edging and steel wire tossed in).


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## Asamodai (Oct 19, 2008)

Epic. 

That is all.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Took a shot of the trio of Dreadknights as well:


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

I caved and did get the box of the new assassins... Not played it yet, but I did have fun painting these models so far. 













































































































And finally, a team shot:


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## Asamodai (Oct 19, 2008)

Awesome stuff, as per usual.


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## Chaosftw (Oct 20, 2008)

That Assassin box set is its own game? I thought it was just a model bundle by GW!  soon much more value!!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Yeah, it's a very simple board game that's a co-op or even Solo game. 

Perfect for me though... It's simple enough to play it with people who are not familiar with wargaming, but are curious about the models/universe and just wonder what the hobby itself is.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Because all good heroes need a good anti-hero!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Did the cultists up that came in the box too, but decided to swap out the horribly outdated CSM models that where included with 3 chosen ones from the DV boxed set....


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Hey folks, 

I was able to pick up a knight castigator for cheaps from somebody who bought it off e-bay (he even suspected it was a recast). So I took it off his hand, promising it would receive some TLC. 

It went from looking like this: 





































To this (after some disassembly and an isopropanol and ethanol bath): 





































So the centrepiece of the army is done. Now all they need, is a small SM allied force if I want to prep this army for competitive play.


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## Orochi (Jan 28, 2009)

NMM's on display here are just intense.

Incredible, sir.


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