# Using Micro Sol/Micro Set



## Psydom (Jan 10, 2012)

Hey All,

I've just gotten my hands on some Micro Sol & Micro Set and was looking for some tips on using them..
The instructions on the bottles are simple enough.. a little too simple really and a bit counter intuitive if you ask me (Micro set is for removing/softening decals and Micro Sol is a "setting solution" - go figure!)

Anyhow.. I'm looking for some tips on how to get the best results with them.. should I use one then the other or just one? 

Cheers in advance!


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## fatmantis (Jun 26, 2009)

as you said the instructions are simple, ans so is the poduct!!!. my steps are...
1:varnish
2: water & decals
3: put a little micro set(blue???) on the model apply decal
4: wait, and if needed add micro sol(red??) to soften the decal further if not apllying flat enough.
i like the product extremly useful just took a few attempts to get the hang of it.


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## HorusReborn (Nov 19, 2008)

You shouldn't need the red for most of our hobby. These were created to remove silvering around decals... the glue that gets shiney around the decao... gw's are full of it. They work well to create the painted on lokk and make your decals dull and conform to detail. Gw's decals do NOT work well with the red sol... and infact will disolve from my experience. The blue will actually soften the decal enough for ya. Apply it over a gloss coat, liberally, it wont eat paint. Put the decal down, let it softwn up a bit, dab b your decal down, let it dry, coat again with gloss coat. Bam... you can see the work it does in my army section if it'll help. The red stuff was actuallly created to soften decals cor aircraft and armour in the scale model worl especially to comform over rivets, zimmerit, and aircrqft panel lines. Good luck with this stuff man I hope to see the results soon.


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## Psydom (Jan 10, 2012)

Cheers guys 

I'm not using GW's decals in this case as they don't seem to make them for the Iron Lords so I've printed up my own on model transfer paper.. it seems a little on the thick side if you ask me but hey..

So if I have this right, others experience is lay down the blue (mico-set), apply decal and smooth initially with the blue too, let dry and re-apply if required and only use the red when the decal is being stubborn?

I've done a few experiments over night so I'll post up something when I'm done..

Cheers,


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## the.alleycat.uk (Jun 11, 2009)

I also only use the blue, in simple steps:
- Paint the blue onto the surface you will put the transfer/decal on
- Loosen the decal in regular clean water
- Slide the decal onto the prepared surface and position
- [optional] dab away excess fluid and flatten out by rolling a point of kitchen roll from the decal centre, you want to be careful if doing this because softened decals also tear easier
- Once dry, paint over with a matte medium [i use liquitex but i think GW Lahmian medium is basically the same thing.]

Jobs a goodun


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## Psydom (Jan 10, 2012)

Looks like I need some more practice with this stuff.. I'm still getting ridges at the edge of the decal on the shoulder.. in part I think the quite thick transfer paper I'm using is to blame..
still, multiple coats with smoothing of the transfer doesn't seem to be getting me quite there and it's only the curve of the shoulder pads so I'm sure there's more I can do..


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## Magpie_Oz (Jan 16, 2012)

I do the pauldrons by

1. When you cut the decal put a very small nick at the top. Exactly where depends on the decal pattern.
2. A very glossy coat of paint/varnish/top coat on the pauldron.
3. A large drop of Micro-whatever on the pauldron.
4. Place the decal such that it is actually floating, then put another drop on top.
5. Stop fiddling with it and let it dry.

Doesn't always work but it works the best most often.
I always use the stronger one (red?) as it is more aggressive and makes the decal much softer.


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