# Blackadder's Landkreuzer P500; Die Wühlmaus



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Black Library of Caltroon:

The Black Library of Caltroon mentions the 'Armories' carved out of the living rock in the mountains of Cardiff boarding the Tyne estuary. What little is known of the 'Armories' is there are numerous galleries that go on for miles on each level and and it has never been established how many levels there are. 

All that is know is all the exploratory parties no matter how well armed and provisioned never return from the depths and sometimes eerie howls reverberate from below............

So they are described in the Novel, 'The Lords of the Starship'

The Blackadder has exhumed from the safer levels a forgotten behemoth he calls the Landkreuzer P500; Der Wühlmaus.

http://i.imgur.com/gCCG15S.jpg









More than half again the size of the 300 tonne Baneblade the P500 weighs in at 500 metric tons and was the creation of the Blackadder when he tried to scratch build a Baneblade from images he found on the internet more than six years ago.

Not being as practice as he is now about all he got right was the width of the hull and tracks from the front, 8.4 meters. I guess that excludes the sponsons.

Seen here compared in size to his favorite tank Arethusa 

http://i.imgur.com/MF75gyP.jpg









Once again Blackadder has taken up the cudgel and will attempt to complete this monster as a noble companion to his titan squad.

http://i.imgur.com/8keowq4.jpg









Of course this will be in the Lucius pattern and I may revamp the asymmetrical superstructure and center the turret.

It will have dual Main cannons, outsized sponsons dual Lasers surmounting the sponsons that will house 90° arc rotating bolters.

http://i.imgur.com/5JS6Q1o.jpg









So aside from everything else I intend to do this shall also be on my plate.

After all I have 38,000 years before these have to be ready.........


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

Another BA scratch build. Consider this Subbed !


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

[quote name='Dono1979' post='2730032' date='Jan 9 2015, 07:12 AM']
This could be the perfect candidate for the new Super Heavy available to the Solar Auxilia in the latest Horus Heresy rulebook (Book IV); the Stormhammer.
[/quote]

It pays to share your work on the internet. You literally have a world of input to draw on. Thanks very much for this information; you have given me an edge on replicating in hardware the image offered in the rules with virtually no regression The machine imaged and mine are virtually identical with very few amendments.










Now it just remains to be seen if I alter my intended trajectory to this new information????????????


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Unilateral Development;

One thing that has alway bothered me about this tank was the unilateral asymmetry of the superstructure of the Armorcast model. Since I am redesigning this tank I decided to make the casement symmetrical (and center the turret) which regretfully eliminates the character of the original, superfluous as that may have been. Other than causing angle incident headaches it served no discernible purpose; nevertheless I am sorry to see it go.

http://i.imgur.com/KNgyHgc.jpg









So after producing a paper template I transferred the coordinates to styrene and rough cut the piece with scissors. (Yes I know the lines are not symmetrical but I know what they mean.........)

http://i.imgur.com/QGdkYrL.jpg









Once the top is glued in place I can sand the bevel and add the sloping casement.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Turret Toolboxes:

One thing I do know, the toolboxes on the back of the turret have to be executed with a fine degree of tolerance. It is very easy to make them lopsided and then they just look like hell; it would be better just to leave them off.

When I refurbished my Armourcast Baneblade I just cast them out of resin and sanded them into shape easy peasy 

http://i.imgur.com/p0GJbDu.jpg









but today I am going to build them from scratch as I don't want to play with all that messy resin.

http://i.imgur.com/6MAWrez.jpg









So we start with the false bottom plate and I don't know how big/deep I want the boxes so I made the plate a tad extra long. When it's finished the end plate should be relatively square i.e.equal on all four sides but I won't know the dimensions until I get the angled side on.

http://i.imgur.com/pUvzaqE.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Sounds Of Sanding:

One of the questions I most get is how do I manage to get my edges and corners so crisp and smooth and without using fillers. Well I've attempted to answer this on many occasions recommending the tools shown here but it was only this morning that it came to me that I sand by sound...........

http://i.imgur.com/PCFjBdi.jpg









The big problem with sanding anything especially soft material is maintaining a level stroke with the sanding block or file. Most people when they sand have a tendency to rock the tool especially at the end of the stroke where they reverse the sanding direction. This causes two problems; one, by necessity the edges become more sanded as the pressure at the point of contact increases at the fine edge causing more material to be abraided and two, the double stroke of the reverse of the direction.

There are two ways to eliminate this. The first is easy just sand in one direction but the problem there is you still have the extra pressure at the end of the stroke. The second is to sand in a circular or figure '8' motion which I learned when honing chisels on a stone and carried over into sanding just about anything. 

So check your sanding progress often and if possible reverse the piece so the edge surfaces gets equal work and try to decrease the pressure when you get to the end of the stroke so the edges don't get over-sanded.

So where does the 'sound' come in?

This morning I was absently sanding the small turrets seen above and I noticed that the sound of the sanding dropped in pitch as I made flush contact with the entire surface of the work. I probably do this subliminally so I know precisely when the surface is flush and smooth. You'll have to practice with this technique but it's better than filling with greenstuff which you have to sand again anyway.

HTH

Oh, and the scissors.......... On thin styrene up to a millimeter I use a good pair of scissors to rough cut the excess close to the edge of the work. they are much easier to control than the knife and you are less likely to cut too close and damage the corners.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Black Styrene:

So why hasn't someone asked, "Where did you get the Black Styrene?"

http://i.imgur.com/UisXGyh.jpg









Well people who have been following my threads for years know but to newcomers and new forums that I am posting on will be surprised to learn that the black plastic comes from IBM printer cartridges. My company use to throw them out by the hundreds each year.

I've got enough to last me a few decades............










They're thick plastic over 2,00 MM so you need a saw to cut them, a hacksaw will do and the plastic is compatible with with standard styrene plastic cement.

And they're free........

Plus you're recycling.


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## Viscount Vash (Jan 3, 2007)

Good to see you are still going strong Blackadder.

Only thing i'll say about using black styrene is it is worth making sure you spray undercoat in a well lit area if using Chaos Black. I once made the mistake of a late night garden spray foray and missed the recesses lol.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I use standard off the shelf aerosol primer and flat black. 

The Fearful Symmetry:

Even with her plasticard only half installed and none of the detail accomplished The 'Kreuzer' is an exercise in brute force.

http://i.imgur.com/zMCCoZB.jpg









Almost a third again larger than the standard Baneblade she already weighs over half a kilo, one and an eighth pounds. That's a lot of styrene.

http://i.imgur.com/8j5K4wz.jpg









The faceted superstructure is a marked departure from the Classic Baneblade and will mount a centerline main turret.

http://i.imgur.com/YBuh9Lz.jpg









The top view alongside the Baneblade shows that for aesthetic value I shall have to widen the track covers I'm guessing 5 MM each and build out the sponsons correspondingly. This is one of the reasons I scrapped the project years ago because the complexity of the modification was beyond my then abilities.

Hopefully I'll be up to the challenge now................


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

You're Not Going to Believe This But:

Just an FYI before enclosing the bottom of this model. The problem is I rarely take the time to document the internal structure of these smaller models so the infrastructure is lost until someone takes a hacksaw to see what's inside.

This way no one will be tempted.........

http://i.imgur.com/heuyf6S.jpg









From the bottom view to the superstructure before the final sanding of the facet work which I am rather pleased with. 

http://i.imgur.com/XBP3x6Q.jpg









Faceting rarely comes out this well as the angles especially towards the end usually tend to go awry with a lot of fudging to make the last pieces fit.

These came out pretty much perfect. Whew!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

If the Wine is Sour, Throw It Out:

If the wine is sour, throw it out has ever been my maxim. One of my favorite movies is 'The Agony and the Ecstasy' where Michelangelo dissatisfied with his work scraped it off and started over. The lesson I learned from that was never be satisfied with 'Good enough' so when I saw five years ago that this tank was not going to come out the way I envisioned it I put it aside for better days. 

http://i.imgur.com/IyflQu4.jpg









Well better days are here and still I am dissatisfied. First my behemoth has too small a track width as was my initial thoughts half a decade ago so I set out to remedy this.

Note in the image above the Baneblade on the left tracks equal about a third of the overall width of the tank excluding sponsons where as the tank on the right about a quarter including the new added on centimeter of width. So now not only do I need to widen the track housings but I also have to widen the tracks as well which will necessitate making new tracks. This is a daunting project as I do want to make tracks with precisely the same design as the gorgeous original Baneblade skull track segments. So the first order of business will be to make two track links; one with the skull and one with the standard track design but a quarter again larger overall. Then I have to explore the possibility of casting them them.

The second problem with the tank in the image above is the front deck is sloped side to side which was not apparent in the then original black plastic model but is painfully obvious in the white styrene sheathed present. That shall have to be rebuilt.

http://i.imgur.com/o9Ifcus.jpg









In the above image we see the added on strips I will use as a basis for the widened track housing. The lower stringer will define the upper edge of the bogie access panels. The sponsons will be positioned maybe a quarter inch more forward.

http://i.imgur.com/l5ZrKOE.jpg









This rear image shows where I am dissatisfied with the engine housing, the angled panels on either side were not large enough top to bottom so I am redoing them as well the left side panel already chopped away.

http://i.imgur.com/scJGi2N.jpg









This top view demonstrating perhaps more clearly the object of my discontent.

As I said, the wine was sour............


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

"If the wine is sour, I'm not the pussy to drink it" you mean? 
Love your work man, you are a true plastic-card-wizard!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

No, Not Spaced Armour:

But rather my strategy for making the tread well wider without rebuilding the whole model. Although it might have been easier to rebuild the whole model. 

http://i.imgur.com/3rzCeFn.jpg









Once I get the exterior sides on and remove the inner track race things should move a lot quicker.

I doubled the thickness of the track housing and fenders because 2,6 MM armour might look sufficient for a Baneblade but on this model it looks too thin. This armour will be 5,0 MM thick.

http://i.imgur.com/akJuepy.jpg









The new engine compartment looks much better with the diagonal side panels rebuilt.

http://i.imgur.com/WGklzZw.jpg









The inner track well wall shows with the black and white sandwich running fore to aft the 5,0 MM thickness of the armour. Once completed the exterior plating of the well will be just as thick.

Finally, the front bottom view. with all the work clean and tidy for a change this finally looks like it will come together.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Come On Blackadder, It's a Toy Tank:

I have to regain my perspective. I sometimes get the impression I am too carried away by what is ostensibly a toy plastic tank but it is what it supposedly represents.

We have the Baneblade , a 300 tonne monster tank as big as a two story house literally (scale-wise) and now we have something half again larger. A 500 tonne construction that makes the Baneblade appear as insignificant. 

http://i.imgur.com/AzkgYUl.jpg









I purposely took this photo with both tanks positioned with the rear bulkheads even so the front ends represent the overall length of each vehicle. The Baneblade is clearly outclassed.

http://i.imgur.com/pNhPjtm.jpg









Note the Landkreuzer has no treads as yet.

Blackadder you clearly need to get some professional help


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Dammit Jim I'm a Doctor Not a Sculptor:

Well er not a doctor either but a mechanic and the bottom line is, 'Don't quit yer day job Blackadder.

Below is my attempt last night to try my hand at making the treads I so much covet; not so easy as it would seem............

http://i.imgur.com/GuTTJne.jpg









Funny how a photo solidifies imperfections your eye compensates for or ameliorates, this skull looked pretty close to my 3D perception...... Not!

http://i.imgur.com/D4Q3xcB.jpg









However the generic tread seems satisfactory.

The new treads are 3,0 CM as opposed to the FW cast originals which are 2,5 CM wide. 

Now that I have a prototype I figure it will take me about 15 minutes per tread to manufacture the generic treads if I make cutting jigs and start an assembly line.

I figure I will require 12 skull treads and 36 generic not counting the 32+ blank treads I shall need for the bottom run.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

How the Skull Was Made:

No one asked (which is surprising) but I'll give the procedure anyway. 

I started with a strip of styrene 6,3 MM X 2,0 MM which would give me a skull about a millimeter larger than the original; that would be about a fifth again larger.

I then used my #11 Xacto tip to auger out two small holes where I estimated the eyes would be. The holes were much smaller than the finished eye sockets.

Then I augered the hole between the eyes for the nose(again much smaller than when finished).

I could see then that I had to add some small pieces of styrene to the strip for the cheek bones which I cemented on and allowed to dry.

Once dried I began to shape the dome of the skull. Since I already had the size estimated it was a simple matter to scrape away the surface copying the contours of the dome and face until I had a rough facsimile of the skull shape. 

I then set about carving the eye sockets using the edge of the skull for a guide the outer rim of the eye socket would be paper thin.

delicately cutting away the excess enlarging the socket ever so slightly until again I had rough sockets cut, I did the same for the nose recess,

Again with the #11 knife I scraped the character contours in the forehead and cheeks and incised deep creases on either side of the nose to create the muzzle.

I pared down the styrene on either side for the jaw recesses. This where I stopped:

http://i.imgur.com/D4Q3xcB.jpg









I brushed the entire surface with styrene cement to smooth the rough knife scratches, the thin cement not the glue, and allowed to dry over night.

This morning I cut the final detail and undercut the jaw for where it would be separated from the stock strip.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Only 78 More To Go:

Well it seemed like a plan making these treads the hardest part being carving the skull. The tracks themselves are easy albeit tedious but I see no way of casting them without compromising the detail. 

http://i.imgur.com/rMmTfg2.jpg









The two that are done didn't take all that long perhaps a half hour tops.

http://i.imgur.com/uGPWti7.jpg


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Very impressive, but that looks like you are going to be spending hours and hours doing tracks over the next few days...


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yankee Ingenuity:

Yessir thanks to Henry Ford and his assembly line idea I'm moving great guns on fabricating these treads.

I have all the skulls made and partially sanded down to the right thickness and I have a good start on the skull tread. I've got enough segments for 26 skull treads which is a lot more than I need but there are always a few crips so its better to make spares plus I can always hang the surplus on the turret for spares.

http://i.imgur.com/D8F547E.jpg









I made 16 skulls last night which should suffice for the time being no point in wasting greenstuff although each skull requires about a BB sized bit of greenstuff.

http://i.imgur.com/NpkxLnW.jpg









You can see I have to trim down the skull thickness as it protrudes too high above the tread.

I thought the skull segments would be the hard ones to reproduce but it appears the generic treads are/will be the labor intense ones.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

One Down 79 To Go:

Well the first track link is completed. Start to finish I'm guessing it took a half hour to build from scratch including glue drying time. Once I get jigs built and get an assembly line going I'm sure I can finish the next 79 in about eight man hours but of course I don't have that time to devote consecutively so over the course of a few days give or take should see them assembled.

The first image shows the back of the link; strangely I only took the one and no close up.

http://i.imgur.com/b0xUsuC.jpg









This next image shows all the skull treads ready for the final assembly and a segment of a Baneblade track for a size comparison.

http://i.imgur.com/xFU3uLk.jpg









The image below shows a closeup of the thickness of the link. The standard Baneblade link is 4,25 MM and my link is just about 6,0 MM.

http://i.imgur.com/20C9ghv.jpg









A close up of the tread detail, each tread has 27 individual pieces of plastic including the skull. It's a very labor intense construct.

http://i.imgur.com/rQi5MiQ.jpg









And finally the bogie wheel compared to a Baneblade bogie.........

http://i.imgur.com/2m8BKsq.jpg









God what a monster this tank will be.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

68 To Go:

Well the ones I deemed the hardest to do because of the sculpting and number of pieces are ostensibly complete in their basic assembly. There are some that think I should have cast the prototype and be done with it but my way proved best albeit much more labor intense because although the components remained more or less locked in stone size-wise subtle shifting of the components position-wise was and still is necessary for the best artistic appeal. 

http://i.imgur.com/bIB8Dux.jpg









Case in point, originally I cast two different sized skulls and eventually went with the smaller which was about 1,5 MM shorter in breadth.

Here you see the skulls glued in place and on the individual frets they look adequate and I was satisfied but seeing them all together as shown here they are wrong; especially when paired up with the generic tread links, lower right in the above photo, where it will be subsequently revealed that the skulls need to be re-positioned.

http://i.imgur.com/GdB8tMM.jpg









And so it turns out lunacy does have it's purpose.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tread Factory:

After a few failed attempts at making a decent mould/casting I decided to go back to my original plan of making treads by hand. there is just too many problems with casting at least in the way I am geared up to do it. Were I into the manufacture of these for profit I would engage a qualified mould maker but since it is a one shot deal I decided to tough it out.

Below is my tread assembly line in various stages of production so you can see the progression.

http://i.imgur.com/aRx4q2Q.jpg









And I couldn't decide which image I liked best so here it is again......

http://i.imgur.com/5dXu9eI.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Hitting My Stride;

Well the first ones were tedious because I didn't know where I was going with these.

After I finished the skull treads I knew what the basic tread thickness and the overall size would be and I did have the prototype for the generic tread pretty much nailed.

Yesterday I played around with speeding up the production process and it was kind of a down day production wise but this morning I hit my stride and accomplished quite a bit in the hour I devoted to production.

I glued the strips together the six long strips to the right. That represents the amount of track necessary to do each strip being cut into 11 segments 3,0 CM long 66 in all; probably a few more than I need.

http://i.imgur.com/kes7Wb7.jpg









The five generic to the left are completed track faces and still need the back side of the track installed and the 3 center rows are pretty much what I accomplished in the hour this morning..... easy peasy 

http://i.imgur.com/8AWq65s.jpg









I hope to be half done today with the track faces.

Then I can start on the blanks for the bottom run of the tracks.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

And You Guys Thought I Was Crazy:

Well I figured out a way that I do not have to make 80 individual treads, I probably don't need any more than the 44 presented here.

Of course I have to make the bottom run but that can be all one piece except for the inner track segments which is really quite simple

http://i.imgur.com/pbJ9a0g.jpg









So now I can go back to twiddling my thumbs and toes Ha, Ha!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

How It's Done:

Or how I do it anyway; I'm sure there's a better way but I don't know of it.

I'm about ten minutes away from finishing up what I hope is sufficient number of tread links so it's a good time to take a break and show my production line; this time for installing rivets:

First you have to cut the rough cut rivets and for that I use the half inch Xacto chisel (Center right on the board) and I cut about twenty at a time from the 1/16th inch diameter rod center board just below the cement bottle.

I have two tread links just below that; the upper one is a completed link that I use as a guide to maintain the correct spacing and the one below that is the uncompleted work piece with one rivet already installed.

http://i.imgur.com/lseMphu.jpg









The pieces to the right are the tracks that are yet to have rivets installed; only eight left.....

and to the left twenty four links I just completed this hour.

In the close up image below i'm trying to demonstrate how I pick up the rivets because no one can pick up the individual rivets by hand and install them with their fingers without going bats**t crazy or with tweezers either for that matter.

No , what I do is just touch lightly the individual rivets with the sharp point of my NEW #11 Xacto blade and brush a drop of glue onto the area of the tread link where I want the rivet to be and lightly press the rivet on the Xacto point into the glue drop and hold slight pressure for a few seconds....

http://i.imgur.com/7vjYGDd.jpg









Withdraw the knife and the rivet stays glued to the tread..........

Do that operation 128 times and you're done. 

Easy, Right?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tread Links 1.02

Okay so the tread links are cleaned and the excess bits of plastic sanded and cut away; the rivets filed down to a uniform height, we're ready to install the front end link plate. I glued all the link to continuous strips of styrene leaving a slight gap between so I can cut them separate once the glue dries. this is so much easier than cutting each individual piece plus all the front strips are of a uniform height.

http://i.imgur.com/llrREyj.jpg









A closeup of the rivet rows and the tread pattern reveals slight anomalies in the spacing and placement but the casual observer will not notice, "Hey that rivet is half a millimeter too close to the other."

http://i.imgur.com/DMHHxGy.jpg









Government Work.


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## CLT40k (Jun 18, 2010)

looks great!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

A cunning idea indeed, lord Blackadder... a very cunning plan.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Helpful Tip On Filing Rivets:

The key is where I said "rough cut", (if you look at the second picture [previous post]you will see the cut rivets are nowhere near uniform in size or shape.) I glue them on and file to the proper height. The problem is the type of file. Small rivets require a steel emery board (Diamond fingernail file)










or they will drag off. Larger rivets naturally can take a coarser file.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Big Dividend:

More than likely an exercise in complete lunacy but to have accomplished this pays me a big dividend; thumps chest over heart, here. 

I gave up on this project half a decade ago because I couldn't conceive of making treads and by treads I mean plain old run of the mill tank treads, not FW Baneblade treads. I really, really, really, coveted those skull treads and every so often I would look at this uncompleted model and think, "Someday I'll make this work."

Well today just a few minutes ago it became a reality and as I savor the result and a well made Martini I am sharing this moment with all of you. 

http://i.imgur.com/njFbp76.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/zECI63y.jpg









Cheers,


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Bogie Chassis:

Revamping this tank requires a new set of chassis for the bogie wheels. The original chassis were pretty primitive and my skills have increased over the years.

These will provide much better attach points: 

http://i.imgur.com/XUH53pe.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/7V2tYPM.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Track Blocks:

My original track blocks were an abysmal failure and I discarded them. These new ones will be much sturdier and easy to work with.

http://i.imgur.com/IBxX1Re.jpg









Note the 6,3 X 2,0 MM centering strip I am using to align the bogie wheels, much better than the centering spine of the original track block.

In the image below I know the centering strips don't look like it (I had to measure myself) but they are 12,4 MM from each track well wall. 

http://i.imgur.com/AUVcPWr.jpg









So now we have a true and sturdy base on which to mount the wheels.

http://i.imgur.com/9GPvGfV.jpg









Next; The manufacture of the drive and idler wheels:


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Years Ago:

When I was a budding scratch-builder I made the bogies for this monster. Having already been apprised pf how outlandishly over-sized it was I search around for a shortcut to make the over-sized road wheels.

So I have a complete set of bogies made out of a 5/8 inch dowel for the axle, a 7/8 inch OD ABS tube (I don't know where that came from) and I went to the dollar store and bought a couple of packets of felt tip markers, 

http://i.imgur.com/xNljHtG.jpg









cut off the end plugs and beveled the inner vanes.

http://i.imgur.com/vHznqfW.jpg









and there you have it , 16 reasonably detailed road wheels with a minimum of effort and talent.

And there for some reason I let the project drop.

Had I used my head I should have noticed that even if the drive wheels were larger in diameter, they still had the same sized inner core. (I actually just noticed that as I type this.... Ha!)

Anyway that's where we are today; trying to see if we can't improve on that other fellow's work.


Next Reply Please


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder's 'Crown' Experiment

I love 'Eureka' moments, one came to me two nights back at 3:00 AM where for the few previous days I had been mulling how to produce the drive/idler wheels for the tracks. (The Blackadder has very little to occupy his mind these days.) anyway even though I have an even better way, I'll share this eureka moment with you as it is a more general way to make tank road tires.

BTW for those unfamiliar with "Eureka Moment" I enclose the following link:

https://www.google.com/search?q=app...sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=archimedes+crown+experiment

I hate repetition and the thought of making 40 round tires with axles to make 16 bogie wheels and 4 drive wheel frustrates me and sends me into a state that inactivates me. Rather than wallow in my doldrums I usually just switch to another project which is better for my mental health. Therefor 5 years ago when stymied by the problem, I built Lucie the Warhound (and numerous other projects as well) instead.

So my eureka solution was this, rather than trying to cut round road wheelsof the proper thickness or sandwiching a half dozen or so thin disks together I took thin strips of styrene of proper width (in this case 1/4 inch) and wrapped it around the largest diameter styrene tube in my inventory 1/2 inch which coincidentally was just about the size of the axle needed.

Here we see the first of the eight road tires required already completed:

http://i.imgur.com/kjkte9R.jpg









I'll demonstrate how to make the next one;

Measuring the proper axle spacing I glued the end of the 0,25 MM styrene strip square on the 1/2 inch styrene tube, then when sufficiently dry I filed the end to a fine taper so a lump won't form when I wrap the strip around the axle.

http://i.imgur.com/FxfJVxP.jpg









When the strip is completely wrapped around I insured the wrapping was squared and tight and glued the free end to the wrap. I the proceeded to apply thinset styrene glue to the edges of the entire wrap and allowed to dry.

http://i.imgur.com/v3bSz1e.jpg









I used the milled jaws of the vernier calipers shown to true the wrap edges before applying the glue. (Engineers cringe)

Since the tires will be thicker than the one strip of styrene will achieve I wrapped a second around the first in the same manner. Now that the tire diameter is significantly larger than the 1/2 inch axle it was safe to use a thicker wrap, in this case I used 0,4 MM strip styrene.

http://i.imgur.com/w2F2RXF.jpg









Here we see the tire finished wrap with the vernier calipers in place to compress any spiraling edges so the strips aren't telescoped.

Next post please.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Mantle Of Lunacy:

Since I am so very often labeled "Crazy" I may as well don the appellation and adopt it for my very own to wit; last night I deemed the bogies too plain and spiffed them up a bit. with center axles and lugs.

http://i.imgur.com/YFEzXU7.jpg









After drilling close to 400 holes my placement became a tad erratic.

http://i.imgur.com/dhQX89Z.jpg









Since the skirting of the side armour eclipses half the road wheel I'm sure no one will see the discrepancies.

But I'll have to be more careful on the very prominent Idlers.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Time To Space the Road Wheels:

Well the new tread block seems to be just about perfect; the tire hubs appear slightly below the proposed fender skirting and the block sufficiently long enough to mount the outrage number of bogies. Yeah I'm guessing about all this; that's what comes of working without a plan boys and girls..........

http://i.imgur.com/plMUYT8.jpg









The next step will be to determine the best spacing taking into account the drive sprocket and nose idler wheel the hub of the nose idler being just under the leading edge of the fender.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Madness. Brilliant, but madness.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Looks Like a Plan:

With very little forethought and purely by accident everything is rosy, the bogies seem just the right size for the tread run. i need to space them about a millimeter apart as opposed to the present image but nothing critical.

The two nose tires which are at odds with standard 'Christie suspension'

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christie_suspension

conform nicely to the FW/GW design none the less so it's acceptable. 

http://i.imgur.com/GbiwiJx.jpg









Even without the front idler the wheels look businesslike and seem adequate for the extra two hundred tons this tank has over the Baneblade

http://i.imgur.com/ZQhYR7R.jpg









With the body removed the clean installation is revealed so those who want to copy this design, feel free.

http://i.imgur.com/KfELvs0.jpg









Only please don't ask for plans, diagrams or templates; I regret to say there aren't any.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

No Need To Rush:

Let this be a lesson, it doesn't pay to rush these projects. I was about to affix the road wheels to the wheel base but on seeing this I will have to wait until the drive and idler wheels are done. Otherwise the wheel placement would have to be redone.

http://i.imgur.com/CjK0qfR.jpg









but everything else seems satisfactory.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Smacks Forehead:

On re-examining the side armour fender skirting there's a grievous error in the rear cutout and only this image brought it to the fore:


http://i.imgur.com/CjK0qfR.jpg









My problem is that I was following the Armorcast Baneblade profile when I initially built this.

http://i.imgur.com/SRV3wxa.jpg









Where the cut out is significantly larger.

http://i.imgur.com/JK0IvrB.jpg









That's why the skirt access panel cutouts won't work out.


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## LordNecross (Aug 14, 2014)

I have a question about this project. What is it your are building? Is it supposed to be a more accurate Baneblade, or just a bigger version of one scaled up a bit. I read your initial post but am still a bit confused. Its based off of how Artists represent it I guess?

Its a great build by the way though.


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

LordNecross said:


> I have a question about this project. What is it your are building? Is it supposed to be a more accurate Baneblade, or just a bigger version of one scaled up a bit. I read your initial post but am still a bit confused. Its based off of how Artists represent it I guess?
> 
> Its a great build by the way though.


Hes building a scaled up version of a baneblade. It was an early attempt from his scratch building to do an accurate baneblade but now that he has a bit more experience with these things he is making it a big baneblade. Mind you this is Blackadder were talking about. Look at his scratch builds and you'll find that it he ends to go above and beyond when he finds a worthy project. look at his scratch built Warlord for example.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Well thanks for fielding that question; the only thing I can add is the original model was an attempt to make an Armorcast Baneblade but i had no plans, templates or reference images that demonstrated scale so I made my best guess as to the actual size. Well I was off by 25%. My scratchbuilt represented an tank a quarter again larger than the Armorcast original.

By that time the FW resin Baneblade had come out and I liked that much better but it was too detailed for me to attempt at my then abilities so I put this model away until my skills improved.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Well I've been a fortnight on Florida and no one seems to have missed any updates so it appears if I were to somehow depart this mortal coil no one would notice............ a comforting thought...................


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Don't be so dramatic. =P
You have many concurrent plogs. 

Should you shuffle off this mortal coil we'd notice when there were no more insanely ambitious scratch builds.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

With what is obviously the skill of 5000 years of practice, I simply assumed that you were a Vampire and thus immortal, time not being of concern to one such as yourself.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

God what a wienie you are Blackadder! Boohoo I didn't get any mail; poor baby.......... just goes to show don't post when you're tired and high (Martini).......Ha! 

Just got back from Florida last night 19 hours of driving and decided to check my threads before retiring, my apologies. 

Somehow I thought that post was funny last night.............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Okay; I promise, I'll have a production post readied later today 

Wow; searched "Latest version of Baneblade" and found this:










Surely someone has a lot of talent and time on his hands.

Now I see (infer) at least eight crew members and half a dozen or so free roaming servitor skulls, a bin for spent small shell casings, a lot of skulls, icon, and altars and a tech priest but I see no live ammo magazine for the big guns and no perceivable engine; what am I missing?


Appended to; "What am I missing..........."

Well the upper tread run to be sure. The artist has acknowledged that he was aware of the necessity of the upper run of tread as he shows the tread cutoff end in the front of the tank fender but then he ignores the issue and has the sponson gun server (gunner?) and some abbreviated individual smack dab in the space where the tread should be. 

Then there is the question of fuel. In my reading preparing to make my version of a Landkeuzer I referred a lot to the largest produced tank (to my knowledge) the German Panzerkampfwagen VIII 'Maus'. The spec's show it carried 710 US Gallons of fuel internally and 400 gallons of fuel in the external reserve and had a battlefield range of 39 miles. BTW that works out to 185.5 feet of travel per gallon if you're interested and at top speed of 8.1 MPH. The big problem with the Maus was developing an engine powerful enough to move the tank and small enough to actually fit inside.

The artist here didn't address either the interior fuel storage 95 cubic feet or a reservoir cube size of 4.56 by 4.56 by 4.56 or appreciable space for any sort of propulsion unit.

Certainly the tiny barrels at the end of the fender couldn't carry enough fuel for more than a few miles at most. BTW note the surge baffles.........nice touch.

But it is a pretty picture......XD


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

It is a neat picture, but as you rightly point out for anyone with knowledge of real world tanks it ruins suspension of disbelief not validates it.


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## Uveron (Jun 11, 2011)

Blackadder said:


> Certainly the tiny barrels at the end of the fender couldn't carry enough fuel for more than a few miles at most. BTW note the surge baffles.........nice touch.XD


Atomic Reactor? I mean they do go up with quite a boom on the table. And you can build them to be fairly small. (Especially in the far-future)


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Until someone can show me where in print from an official FW/GW/40K guide &etc. that the IG tanks are not just cranky clanky mechanical anachronisms I will continue to imagine them more at home on a battlefield in the early twentieth century. 

Everything about them from the external fuel tanks to the exhaust mufflers mounted in the rear screams internal combustion gas or diesel engines.

Is all that archaic nonsense just for show?


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

They run on promethium (at least i think thats how its spelled) which is basically the 40K version of JP8 so i doubt its for show. As for why its drawn that way. it could just be for the sake of the depiction as the artist didn't think it would be interesting to see the engine compartment or suspension etc. it does seem pretty clear though that the combustion engines in 40K are more efficient than their 20th century counterparts which accounts for their ranges. 

This picture has always bothered me for the same stated reasons. As a former Mechanized Crewman i know there alot more to the inside of a tank or Fighting vehicle than what is being shown.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

I don't know . . . I think they either run on "faith in the Emperor" or "the obsessions of fanboys."

Can't be certain of which though.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I looked up Promethium and it's a futuristic fuel additive (BS) so your tank can run in airless environs..... (MS 'more of the same') (PHD 'piled higher and deeper')

More down to earth is the following:

Disc Making:

There are a lotta ways to make small discs but this is the easiest way I've found to do it without a lot of special tools and compasses, trammel points, and expensive disc cutting dies.

I glue scraps of plasticard (in this case 1,0 MM) to the ends of styrene tubing by simply dipping the very tip of the tube into the glue vial.

and allow to dry for a few minutes..........

http://i.imgur.com/hQ8B0Hd.jpg









Once dry take your standard household scissors and trim off the rough excess.
(upper end of the medium length tube)

then take your sanding block and fine sand off the rough edges until the disc is flush with the side of the tube; usually takes a few seconds.
(lower end of medium length tube)

Once shaped take your utility knife and slice off the rounded end cap.

http://i.imgur.com/rZtG4W6.jpg









Walla! a relatively perfect disc in a few minutes with no special tools and if you need a larger disc than a half inch use a bit of plastic gel cement and an appropriate sized metal washer same procedure.

http://i.imgur.com/GNZNLpr.jpg









Yeah I know it's _Voila_ but I sometimes post on a French site and it drives 'em crazy........Ha!


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## CLT40k (Jun 18, 2010)

Loving the project!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

The Never Ending Process:

More and More this track manufacture seems interminable. The more I do there is even more left to do..........

I'm trying to make a reasonable facsimile of the FW Superheavy suspension and track.

Below see the beginning of both front and drive wheels marked for detail drilling for boltholes and reinforcement strapping. 

http://i.imgur.com/8r5G86G.jpg









And please don't tell me just to buy them from some other tank kit.

No one has captured the pure artistry of the FW original Baneblade.

http://i.imgur.com/1YkXBvR.jpg









The GW Baneblade runs a poor second.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Playin' the Odds:

Well I have four chances to produce two acceptable outer drive wheels of the eight sides I have to work with. The others I can hide on the inner track where they won't be seen (Whom I kidding? I could never accept that...........)

http://i.imgur.com/SD6Xkgk.jpg









Anyway the one on the lower right seems to be acceptable so now I have a one in three chance of duplicating that effort.

The inability to calculate odds is one of the reasons The Blackadder does not gamble.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Mindless Tedium:

Only 48 more of these little b*st*rds to go............

http://i.imgur.com/qBZ4CFl.jpg









This is a good job to do while you're watching the telly; it goes faster that way.

The Blackadder isn't an Englishman but he plays one on the internet.....


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Prognosis Negative:

This is where we separate the suspicion of mental instability from outright clinical insanity.

Why I subject myself to this form of torture when I would give anything to say "good enough" is becoming of great concern to me.

Gluing these little batons on the drive wheels is bad enough but folding them down to unify the diagonal reinforcements stretches credulity. 

http://i.imgur.com/Mw772tZ.jpg









The closeup reveals the fraction of a millimeter variance that had me annoyed.

http://i.imgur.com/uomMeQw.jpg









Checking into a clinic on the morrow............


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Will insanity effect your ability to post progress? Have you considered making one good road wheel and making a mould of it?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> Will insanity effect your ability to post progress? Have you considered making one good road wheel and making a mould of it?


Hasn't yet and No............

What a Difference a Day Makes:

Well two days but there's no title that mentions two days.......

If someone told me that these would come out like this I would have looked at him suspiciously

http://i.imgur.com/lhQ5KF1.jpg









But here we have left to right the various stages to completion and the first end result and I thought the envelope was sealed.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Feel your anger at the tiny road wheel. Channel your anger and let the dark side of the force guide your hands!

Sith Baneblade does present some sort of interesting crossover concepts...


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

"Strong with insanity this one is ummm yes. Too old he is; much anger."

I used to hate the character Yoda, then along came Jar Jar Binks. 

Now I hate them both.........


Finished:

The Wheel Suspension is finished. It's too early in the day for a celebratory martini but perhaps I'll have two this evening.

These wheels have been a thorn iin my side for jeez over six years and now they are finally done in what? A COUPLA WEEKS!

Procrastination thy name is Blackadder.

So here are the twenty road wheels and drivers held on place on the tack base with a rubber band of course they have to be spaced properly and mount brackets for the drive and idler wheels but G** D*** they're done!

http://i.imgur.com/4Ze7kpJ.jpg









The image below compares the FW Baneblade with what could be considered a true scale Baneblade chassis/hull.....

http://i.imgur.com/rh3jlqe.jpg









A profile setup shows the wheels not too big and not too small. Once spaced out properly they'll adequately do the job.

http://i.imgur.com/JYklLWf.jpg


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Truly a feat of skill and endurance. I hope that was a good celebratory martini.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

If there is one thing The Blackadder prides himself on it's he makes a d*mned fine Martini.

Every time! 

"If a man can make a perfect Martini; his position in life is assured."


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Road Wheel Covers:

You would think that scribing the road wheel covers would be a simple matter but proportion, spacing and plotting required a LOT of work to get them right and whether they are right is subjective.

Anyway after numerous attempts i finally have obtained reasonable results shown here.

http://i.imgur.com/twLEzBj.jpg









Now all that needs be done is scoring the covers to simulate the panel seams.

http://i.imgur.com/HhL5fz6.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

How To Drill the Holes:

Well how I do it anyway.

http://i.imgur.com/Qv408va.jpg









First you have to measure where the holes will go and that is self-explanatory and needs no expounding on but here is where your eye is better than pains taking measurements. If it looks right it's close enough we're not going to quibble about fractions of a millimeter.

Tools you will need:
http://i.imgur.com/85wWSdu.jpg









Next take your #11 sharp tip Xacto blade and auger a tiny hole in the plastic where you will be drilling the pilot hole; this will keep the drill bit from wandering once you start drilling.

Now you're gonna need a lot of holes and they have to line up reasonably well so check the augered hole in relation to the panel edge and the seam edge so if it's the tiniest bit off you can adjust it by tipping the drill bit to force the hole in the direction you want the correction. 

http://i.imgur.com/KWtp0BW.jpg









Now take your Pin Vise and hand drill all the pilot holes making sure they are reasonable straight and of a uniform depth. I don't recommend power drills for this as the material is too soft and will melt at high speed drilling.



Once you have all the pilot holes drilled hand drill all the proper width holes

http://i.imgur.com/YP45Ud4.jpg









I have two Pin Vises to make the work easier.


http://i.imgur.com/Qv408va.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Beat Goes On:

Once the holes were drilled I filled the inner deeper hole with sixteenth inch styrene dowel

http://i.imgur.com/9LBAcY1.jpg









and allowed to dry.

I then cut off the excess and after allowing to dry overnight I sanded the bogus bolts flush.

http://i.imgur.com/X1KmMdT.jpg









I then proceeded to attach bits of rod to the upper edge of the cutout panels to simulate hinges.

http://i.imgur.com/cHN8yjG.jpg









Finally when all the hinges were installed I went back and glued on umpty-ump rivets; it just looked too naked with out the rivet detail.

http://i.imgur.com/sRFzOdN.jpg









and a close up of the panel detail........

http://i.imgur.com/Ewn4rDq.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Finally The Wheels Assembled:

Five plus years in the making I finally have the wheels in the approximate position that they will ultimately be. They are just tacked on at the moment as I need to establish the tread run and adjust the individual wheel height to meet the inner contact of the tracks


http://i.imgur.com/eyz59mI.jpg










A slight adjustment of the front fenders was required as the nose wheel stuck out too far plus I need space for the eclipsing front outboard hinged cover........

http://i.imgur.com/vDulpiQ.jpg










Once I get the right side satisfactory I'll duplicate the final adjustments on the left side.

http://i.imgur.com/tauaUrx.jpg









This final low angle shot shows just about the right amount of road wheel exposure as in the original Baneblade.


http://i.imgur.com/oRKMDW8.jpg









The spacing of the front three wheels still need adjustment.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Blackadder said:


> Five plus years in the making I finally have the wheels in the approximate position that they will ultimately be.


Excellent! This calls for another martini! Or perhaps a highball scotch and soda? That's less of a victory drink and more of a knuckling down in a gentlemanly way drink.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, coincidentally I've just opened a bottle of Macallan single malt 12 YO Scotch; a gentleman's sipping whiskey. Its incredibly smooth and subtle flavor should not be diluted; Slàinte .... 

Rhymes With Orange:

There is something incomparable about the FW Baneblade tread assembly. It make's one regret that as a military vehicle it is totally impractical.

I have attempted to duplicate on a somewhat larger scale the detail of this artistic work


http://i.imgur.com/g1IRIXB.jpg









By larger scale it means I'm trying to correct my errors in perception back when I was a mere novice at scratchbuilding and failed to take advantage of scaling hints.

One would think it simple to arrange and glue on the wheels to the base block but there are a lot of subtle variables that needs be addressed for the tracks to run properly and in subsequent posts I will address those issues but for the time being I will just display the project as it stand.

http://i.imgur.com/FSzkQMc.jpg









I've included a production FW Baneblade tread for scale and comparison.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

My Way:

Before anyone informs me that these could have been cast I am aware of the concept.

I prefer to do it my way.

This morning I am putting the final touches on the 52 tread segments; yes all hand made and yes I am certifiable.

http://i.imgur.com/av43g6b.jpg









To facilitate the inner angles of the tread plate I made a simple jig so all the final angles will be pretty much the same degree and the treads also will prove out the same dimensions within a fraction of a millimeter.

Below we see a close up of a finished tread and one to be beveled in the jig.

http://i.imgur.com/95WrffN.jpg









and a top view of the same............

http://i.imgur.com/zKhLUI1.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Pure craftsmanship! Also would you mind putting up your martini recipe?!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

@Blackadder, you should host modelling retreats in a log cabin, where grown men learn the mysteries plastic glue and martinis for a modest fee!


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

You could publish! 
_Zen and the Art of Scratch Building_


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

First the important business i.e. fixing a Martini. My daughter and I are a odds as to what quality Vodka to use in a Dry Martini. She ops for a decent brand of Vodka such as Absolute &etc and I think the quality stuff diminishes the taste; I use the cheap stuff. like Zelko or Bowmans:shok: In a blind taste test she preferred the Zelko. I never use my Primo potato vodka for Martinis. That stuff is best as a stand alone imbibment perhaps with a little freshly ground pepper in it.

I keep my vodka in the 'frig all the time so it isn't diluted with the ice when you mix it. I have a stainiless steel shaker in there as well. I use filtered water for the ice, nothing special.

The brand of vermouth is most important, I use Noilly Prat Dry which I think is the best. That doesn't necessarily be chilled as you're only going to need a drop or two.

A bartender years ago showed me how to put just the right amount of Vermouth into a Martini. She poured a bit just into the bottle cap and then dripped the drops out of the cap which gives you more control on the amount of Vermouth you are dispensing. I use two drops.

I shake my Martinis; stirring doesn't make it cold enough. I never touch the shaker with my bare hands but always wrap the shaker in a bar towel so the liquid doesn't warm from the touch of your hand.

My shaker has a built in strainer so mini icebergs don't make it into the glass. and of course I use a chilled crystal six ounce Martini stemware.

I garnish with an unpitted olive because stuffed olives contain too much brine with the pimento.

Of course always hold the glass by the stem never the bowl so the drink doesn't warm too quickly.

Skåll Oldman

---------------------------

Revelation:

It's only when you try to replicate one of these resin masterpieces that you get a full appreciation of the exacting work that goes into the prototype production of the piece.

The track segments have to be just the right size to circle the wheel or the treads will look clumsy.

I'm hoping I have left enough excess link overlap to make the run workable; I can probably take off about 2,0 MM more per link if needs be but I'd prefer not to, we'll see once the rest of the links are installed.

http://i.imgur.com/pLr6rwH.jpg









I picked a skull tread at random and it's not one of the better ones; I may replace it or at least swap out the skulls.

http://i.imgur.com/kYL8MYu.jpg









The comparison shot with an original Baneblade is optically deceiving. both treads appear much the same size........ Ha! 

Here we see the side view of the tread and the object of my concern regarding the width of the link in relation to the idler wheel. 

]http://i.imgur.com/hRmcU6k.jpg









i'll know later on this evening whether it's a go or not..............


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

@Blackadder many thanks, I'll try that drink out


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Monumental, and I'm certainly getting an appreciation for the skill of scratch and prototype modellers everywhere from your BaneMaus (as well as your other logs).


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

You and me both......

OMG!

I can't believe it worked! It's one thing to plan out how something will look in your mind but to actually see it reach fruition kinda takes you by surprise.


http://i.imgur.com/FqTZL1t.jpg









The rest is just repetition making the other three run segments

http://i.imgur.com/0DvyU4e.jpg










The problem now is that big gap between the front and rear tread assemblies

http://i.imgur.com/RtqCO4G.jpg









Do I dare compromise and fake the bottom run

http://i.imgur.com/ZuHal03.jpg









Or bit the bullet and make a proper set of track segments

http://i.imgur.com/hOx0YVU.jpg


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Blackadder said:


> Or bit the bullet and make a proper set of track segments


The question I think is, will you expect people to pick up the tank and inspect the underside of the treads? And if so, how do you feel if they see blank track segments?


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## mrknify (May 15, 2014)

Fantastic build. I'm not looking forward to the tracks on the project I've been working on. Makes me glad I'm just scratch building a grot tank this time around.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

mrknify said:


> Fantastic build. I'm not looking forward to the tracks on the project I've been working on. Makes me glad I'm just scratch building a grot tank this time around.












I took a look at the Grot tank tread and it seems you could use a continuous strip of thin plasticard with detail glued to it rather than segmented links. give me a shoutout when you're ready to build them and we'll work something out.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Money In the Bank:

Okay so who bet that the Blackadder was too anal retentive to compromise the un seen thread links?

Too bad, it was like money in the bank...........

Seems like most of the work was on the visible portions of the links anyway not the track face so what was I saving by fudging the bottom run?

http://i.imgur.com/GbPCniM.jpg









I figured out a way that I can have the unseen detail and at not much more expenditure of time and labor while still having a relatively consistent quality the individual links have.

http://i.imgur.com/ijXGQ9T.jpg









So there will be two 13 link pieces running under the center five road wheels. Six skulls need to be cast but that's no biggy

And my personal integrity has been restored..... read OCD.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Blackadder said:


> And my personal integrity has been restored..... read OCD.


Shouldn't that be CDO, so the letters are in the right order?


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Haha I hope you have a suitable triumphal march playing on your music as you march these tracks down the roadwheels. Is the strip simply to keep them aligned during your planning and preparation or does it stay in place as part of the final construction?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Kreuger said:


> Shouldn't that be CDO, so the letters are in the right order?


My particular form is described as "someone who is excessively meticulous, perfectionism, absorbed, or otherwise fixated." ' not familiar with CDO



Iraqiel said:


> Haha I hope you have a suitable triumphal march playing on your music as you march these tracks down the roadwheels. Is the strip simply to keep them aligned during your planning and preparation or does it stay in place as part of the final construction?


To simplify the tread links I am making them all affixed to a continuous strip since they do not have to conform to the circumference of a wheel.

As for music, Mussorgky's 'Pictures at an Exhibition' finale seems to fit the mood.


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

Blackadder said:


> not familiar with CDO


OCD in alphabetical order.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Lesson In Tenacity:

We are limited boys and girls only by a lack of persistence. 24 hours ago I was in a quandary as to whether I had the wherewithal to attempt fabricating the hidden detail. 

http://i.imgur.com/z2RwOIc.jpg









and now it's more than half accomplished. 

http://i.imgur.com/yr3Qtpu.jpg









How much better this would this not have turn out because of laxity on my part?

http://i.imgur.com/yhTugfh.jpg









Now all needs to be done is the inner track plates..........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Much Better:

A bit of elbow grease and the result is much better in a relative way. I wouldn't have been satisfied with the compromise........

http://i.imgur.com/diWapDe.jpg









The interlude has also given me time to think about how to align the wheels better so I have remounted about 50% of the misaligned and only a few more to go before mounting the underrun of track.

http://i.imgur.com/TZm3iLv.jpg[









In this last image you can see the second from last road wheel is misaligned.

http://i.imgur.com/wZy8QyD.jpg









That is being corrected as I type.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Prognosis Positive:

Okay I can with good consciousness put this aside for a while and resume the Reaver.

All the treads are completed with seven left over no less that I can utilize for spares including two skull treads.

In this first series of photos we'll do a size comparison of the Land Kreuzer P500 and the standard Baneblade tracks

http://i.imgur.com/KEbgmU8.jpg









The track is overwhelmingly larger and I hope I haven't diminished the Baneblade too much anymore than the Maus diminished the King Tiger

http://i.imgur.com/stBOYuS.jpg









Even with the Kreuzer in the background it is still huge compared to the dainty Baneblade track.

http://i.imgur.com/w8pFrE7.jpg









Later, the mistakes........


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## mrknify (May 15, 2014)

Its looking great! I started on the tracks on my grot tank, forgot to measure the length of the track. Lol.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Good to hear you're starting; give us an update now and then........

Kattywompus:

Before I put this aside in favor of the Reaver project I think it prudent to present the model as it is at the moment; for nothing less than a record of the mistakes and comparison when the rebuild is effected.

http://i.imgur.com/bXJba5y.jpg









I've run into a major structural anomaly that will have to be remedied before I proceed; so rather than subject my readers to the travails of rebuilding I'll work on this in the background until the retracing is completed.

http://i.imgur.com/wTpnsLH.jpg
[









It started when I first installed the tread assemblies; all looked good from the side elevated view.

http://i.imgur.com/xeI2wZg.jpg









and the side eye level view.

http://i.imgur.com/E4WF6Ix.jpg









The front eye level is within acceptable limits although the left tread needs to be brought perpendicular.

It's only with the rear view that the grievous anomalies manifest..........

http://i.imgur.com/6fRNfnB.jpg









The engine compartment is badly askew and the right tread has a bad twist that did not reveal itself on the aligning table for some reason perhaps because there is no upper track run.

Also the left tread needs to be brought perpendicular as with the front which is of minor consideration.

All of which gives value to the use of photography to review your work because looking at the model itself the eye tends to compensate for the indiscretions.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

An interesting problem, which I'm sure we will see you overcome with the aid of calipers, craftsmanship and immense skill.

What are your thoughts on working with a preformed plastic frame rather than building the four walls of the engine housing again - a chocolate box or sewing equipment container, for example?


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## mrknify (May 15, 2014)

I see several ways of hiding this; add armour (plates that are pinned leaving a gap between the veh and the armour.) Will fix the visible body, while when building the back plate frame can cover the hull twist and allow mounting of a rear hatch square.
As for the tracks, putting a small plate to cover the gap may work.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

mrknify said:


> I see several ways of hiding this


My friend, you do not understand the gleam of madness that shines in the eyes of King Blackadder....


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## mrknify (May 15, 2014)

Iraqiel said:


> My friend, you do not understand the gleam of madness that shines in the eyes of King Blackadder....


I find it comforting if another sees the same fixes I had thought about. But alas my madness lies in a imperial knight I've been working on for almost a year now.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Treads Redressed:

When last we saw the unfortunate Landkreuzer the treads were badly warped and canted askew. 

http://i.imgur.com/qDVMc8V.jpg









I addressed the problem last night with satisfactory results. 

http://i.imgur.com/J2A2i1Y.jpg









So satisfactory in point of fact that I shall have to go back to my FW Baneblades and see if I can apply the same fix to them as well.

Now all that needs be done is to true up the engine compartment


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Truing the Engine Compartment:

I first removed the styrene sheathing for the ribbon cartridge frame. When I first built this frame years ago I was not as practiced as I am now and discrepancies weren't as bothersome/

These days I am more particular. 

Using the naked utility knife blade as a draw plane I shave down the cartridge casing alternating between sanding and drawplaning to remove the millimeter or so extra material to true up the top deck.

http://i.imgur.com/NKsrFiY.jpg









Once the frame top is true I'll apply a sheet of 0.020 styrene to the shaved frame and proceed to re-frame the beveled panels on the side.

http://i.imgur.com/xHAECIJ.jpg


----------



## mrknify (May 15, 2014)

Its looking fantastic!


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## Ring Master "Honka" (Oct 31, 2011)

Ahh Blackadder every time i think. "what is the true power of a Modelling legend" i read one of your logs. i love that everything is custom built and i love the detail in your tutorials.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the glowing critique :blush:

The Mathematical Precision:

There is something extremely satisfying about the faceted structure of the Lucius Pattern vehicles to my mind's eye. Something that is lacking in the Mars versions....

The image below with it's crisp, no nonsense angles just bespeak pent up strength even in its undetailed state.

http://i.imgur.com/E92AphE.jpg









The engine compartment has shaped up rather well from it's previous distorted construction being now less than a fraction of a millimeter out of true.

http://i.imgur.com/MLRxP2C.jpg









It's irksome that the image below came out fuzzy......... 

http://i.imgur.com/9eDDZ54.jpg









Next, the turret..........


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

That's a stark improvement in the engine compartment, excellent work there Blackadder.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Belated thanks for the reply............

Forced Summer Hiatus

After being incapacitated for most of the Summer I'm back with a bit of an update on the Landkreuzer

http://i.imgur.com/34RfS57.jpg









The superimposed turret is only for scale to demonstrate the size of the Landkreuzer vis-à-vis the standard resin Baneblade turret. The model will not actually have an aux Baneblade armament (I don't think)...........

http://i.imgur.com/bCRNGhk.jpg









Of course my camera is still acting up so after one decent image the rest are blurry for some reason but no matter as it is just to show the overall size more than the detail.

http://i.imgur.com/MGmTlKd.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/9Xl7oHk.jpg









So if I can manage to keep my heart rate above 30 BPM and my blood pressure above 70 over 40 I'm hoping to be updating all my threads. 

More to follow...........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Time To Start Detailing:

With the last major component completed it's time to start applying the details and the first order of business is the twin main cannon which is the raison d'être of the Storm Hammer/ Landkreuzer P500.

http://i.imgur.com/dRd1pIk.jpg









I started with the gun mount shield moulding the curve overnight by wrapping the 0.020 inch thick sheet plastic around a pen barrel and clamping. The result is a permanently curved panel of plastic ready to be re-enforced with laminated curved stiffeners 0.020 by 0.25 inch strips.

http://i.imgur.com/6t3Z5Gh.jpg









While applying the strips I continually re-bent the sheet plastic in excess of the actual curve I require so the shield will maintain it's malleability throughout the manufacture. This will give the smoothly graded curve reminiscent of the Lucius Baneblade gun shield.

http://i.imgur.com/i7TxSdO.jpg









I opted for a twin cannon turret instead of two single gun turrets which always appeared too clumsy to me. also a single pair of sponsons albeit with more powerful weapons seems a better way to go..... 










In this I am departing from the conventional Storm Hammer.


----------



## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Always a joy to look at your work, and get well soon old boy


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

Turret Hatch Ring:

One feature I covet is the FW design for the raised turret hatch. This is a relatively easy component to duplicate and looks so good compared to just plunking a hatch down on the barren hull armour.

I started by cutting the three circles in various thicknesses of styrene The base ring being 0.030" the upper ring 0.040" and the top ring with the rivets 0.020".

http://i.imgur.com/RgItgLO.jpg









I used the arc compass technique to square the lines on the top plate for the placement of the rivets and subsequently to find for the ribs on the bottom plate.

http://i.imgur.com/QWaVSWD.jpg









I installed a crude raised inner ring for a butt plate for the ribs. 

http://i.imgur.com/GZsM0Dx.jpg









The Mantlet for the main cannon is ostensibly done except for the gun mount lugs and the fine detail.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

I did something similar on my g.w shadowsword ref the turret hatch albeit very basic, I cut out the turret hatch stuck it on top of a 25mm base and smoothed with green stuff, very basic and in my plog, I was thinking of replacing it with the rhino turret hatch with all the vision blocks, if you get a chance could you take a look give me your opinion, it would be greatly appreciated


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Link or image please Old man.......

Meh!

Now that I see it I'm not so sure I like it..........

http://i.imgur.com/VYopLxU.jpg









I do like the Large radial ribbed mount plate but the hatch seems; "Ehhh!"

http://i.imgur.com/BfnXZjs.jpg









Wadda ya'll think?


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Here you go mate, like I said very basic, I may redo it, or add proper looking vision blocks, but my modelling skills are limited


http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=148362&page=6


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

I can see why you may be having reservations, but the turret is rather bare bones at the moment so perhaps it's because the hatch is sticking out like the proverbial.

That may be lessened somewhat once complimentary details go on and leave it looking less... alone. For example, the T80 hatch looks a bit stupid by itself, but one the extra armour etc are applied, it's quite aesthetically pleasing.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the replies,

Embarrassing:

I should be ashamed to post this as an update but I was busy with other pursuits this week.

On the plus side I did manage to make the cryptic mechanical devices to go on the turret top and accomplish some of the wiring.

http://i.imgur.com/rQ31fTf.jpg









Things should go a lot faster now that those are made.

http://i.imgur.com/sIgKWIk.jpg


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Lawn Care Flags:

Suddenly they are everywhere and a bloody(by our lady) nuisance but here's a tip to recycle some of the d*mned things: 










The plastic staffed ones have an eighth inch staff/ 3,0 mm (approximately)and are extremely flexible and adequate for bundles of conduit whathaveyou. Certainly cheaper than four bucks a pop at your local hobby shop for similar Evergreen/Plastruct rods. Plus they are plastic glue compatible.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Turrets Syndrome 

Damn me! I like how this has turned out. 

http://i.imgur.com/cfJZWwn.jpg









It's a pity I put off building this tank for so long but I feared the work was beyond my capabilities. I'm happy to say that it appears satisfactory so far.

Detailing the turret as just a larger Baneblade seems to be adequate; it just requires plugging away at the detail bits until done. (Well Duh! Blackadder)

http://i.imgur.com/zGrpT4V.jpg









The rear view shows that I still need to find an Aquila.

http://i.imgur.com/2Mkwpb1.jpg









The right side is rather plain compared to the busy left side.

http://i.imgur.com/5R68kaP.jpg









The front elevation reveals the lack of the business raison d'etre of this behemoth. That is to follow hopefully this weekend.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Always inspirational looking at your work!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

All coming together now, looking forward to seeing this with the business end attached. That hatch is looking much better now that it's not the sole detail on the turret, which is great to see.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply and the vote of confidence.........

Down To Business:

I opted for the same caliber weapon as on the resin Baneblade only the turret will house two of them. I chose this instead of increasing the bore of the cannon as to allow for working the two guns inside the turret would be cramped enough without increasing the diameter of the shells which I calculate would be on the order of 16 inches (40,64 cm) on a Baneblade. Guns of a larger caliber begin to take on a comical appearance and stretch credulity.

http://i.imgur.com/jH2xUbU.jpg









I started by cutting rings of 1/2 inch plastic and filing and sanding them to a millimeter wide ring and slipping them on the 7/16 inch barrel I then cut and sanded two muzzle flash suppressors 5/8 inch long by 1/2 inch diameter (13,0 mm). 

I wrapped two thin sheets 0.020 inch plastic round the barrel base to thicken the breech end and finally I split a tube of 1/2 inch tubing for the base of the barrel.

http://i.imgur.com/PBvXI02.jpg









All that is now required is the final step of the breech which again will be of 0.020 inch sheet styrene to bring the barrel to it's final thickness.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Main Gun Barrels Phase 2

The main guns require a lot of stepping down from reinforced breach to barrel thickness otherwise the base looks too spindly. This is the best method I have come up with and it's rather simple and effective. Since all the reinforcements are not of the same thickness I vary between 0.040 tubing thickness and 0.020 sheet styrene for the different step downs which seems to add a bit of panache.

http://i.imgur.com/NjcUI2s.jpg









Once the sheet styrene is fully glued around the barrel the tailing can be trimmed off. It is advisable to leave a long tailing on the wrap until the final gluing so you don't end up with a flat ridge at the seam.

http://i.imgur.com/Hndp61q.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Storm Hammer Raison D'être:

The French have a phrase for it; "a reason for being" and the main dual cannons of my version of the Stormhammer finally make this vehicle a force to be reckoned with (''A force with which to be reckoned'' for all the grammarians..)

http://i.imgur.com/7r9vEaV.jpg









Being of the same bore diameter as the Baneblade albeit slightly longer (6,3 mm) the main guns are, will be when completely detailed, copies of the original FW resin Baneblade.

http://i.imgur.com/buJGCsz.jpg









There was a bit of difficulty in making two reasonably similar cannon and mounting them in the mantlet (We have SDKFZ to thank for that amendment to the Blackadder's education.)

http://i.imgur.com/gNMe2tP.jpg









So the aerial views dispensed with a ground level image rounds out today productivity...........

http://i.imgur.com/axynYrs.jpg









Next, the Howitzer


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Pushing The Limit:

Wrapping the tubes is a good way to increase the diameter and/or wall thickness of Evergreen tubing and in this case 1/2 inch tubing is the largest available and I need almost 5/8ths. First I split and filled two lengths of 1/2 inch tubing but for the final breech reinforcement I needed a 0.040 inch step so I cold rolled a sheet of 1,0 MM styrene. One millimeter styrene is about the limit that I can cold roll, i.e. without resorting to a heat gun; I fastened the initial edge in the image below and allowed to dry overnight. 

http://i.imgur.com/1GVDQs3.jpg









This morning with the glue completely dry I prepared to file the glued edge on a bevel so the thickness is maintained when I glue the rest of the layer to the cylinder.

http://i.imgur.com/pagDVxi.jpg









Employing a "Farmer's file to make the bevel, I'm now ready to glue the tailing to the breech:

http://i.imgur.com/HYayINB.jpg









More to follow.......


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

The turret is superb, personally I would have it longer and wider. Your skill as always is annoyingly great. When I eventually get 2 baneblades as askari for my shadowsword I think I'll try copy your work and make larger turrets


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Ignorance strikes me down again. Could you please break down your processes for:


Blackadder said:


> I split and filled two lengths of 1/2 inch tubin



and



Blackadder said:


> I cold rolled a sheet of 1,0 MM styrene


I can guess, but I prefer cold (rolled) certainty for that one day that I amass the willpower to try and scratchbuild something in emulation of you.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder said:


> First I split and filled two lengths of 1/2 inch tubing but for the final breech reinforcement


Take a length of half inch tubing and split it lengthwise at one place on the circumference.

Slide the split half inch tube over an intact half inch base tube to add a 0.030" layer to the base tube. Naturally there will be a gap to fill as the cut will be spread about 0.188" which is then filled with either a strip of 0.030 styrene 0.188 inches wide or a segment of yet another piece of half inch tubing.

Images to come............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder said:


> I cold rolled a sheet of 1,0 MM styrene


The cold rolled is just a piece of sheet styrene rolled tight and clamped until the roll is relatively permanent and then glued to the basic cylinder as shown in the accompanying images.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Not All Beer and Skittles:

What I had intended was a demo of how to wrap and glue the tailing around the barrel but instead I am forced to show what to do when things go awry. Cold wrapping styrene is limited to 1,0 mm at best but this industrial quality styrene is not as forgiving as the more expensive 'Evergreen' brand material. I also made the mistake of using full strength cement instead of the old stuff that is less potent. As soon as I began wrapping the cement ate through the 0.040" sheeting and it developed a running crack and I had to make an impromptu clamp to repair the gaff.

http://i.imgur.com/afja7yp.jpg









All's well that ends well and I managed to save the work and finish the wrap without further incident albeit not quite the demo I had in mind.

http://i.imgur.com/D7LnlrF.jpg









Hence the title of this post.....


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Split and Fill:

I received a few questions about what I meant by split and fill:

Take a length of half inch tubing and split it lengthwise at one place on the circumference. The right side of the image above the scale shows what I mean..........

http://i.imgur.com/OeqARUL.jpg









Slide the split half inch tube over an intact half inch base tube to add a 0.030" layer to the base tube. Naturally there will be a gap to fill as the cut will be spread about 0.188" which is then filled with either a strip of 0.030 styrene 0.188 inches wide or a segment of yet another piece of half inch tubing.

http://i.imgur.com/Dn24SWq.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/gnLylbb.jpg









Meanwhile the Howitzer proceeds at a snail's pace............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Callow Youth:

Back in the days when I was a callow youth I did so covet a FW Baneblade and to that end I started this outsized scratchbuilt version. I also attempted to convert an Armorcast Baneblade (Note that it still sports the original Armorcast tank treads) model into the more aesthetically pleasing and highly detailed version of the Forgeworld model with the result seen below:

http://i.imgur.com/qZtg7eo.jpg









The large caliber mortar on that model was my first attempt and building from scratch and I was extremely proud of that singular accomplishment.

http://i.imgur.com/vAEkTlM.jpg









In those days I used straight pins for rivets and I wasn't all that comfortable at making thin cuts in styrene.

http://i.imgur.com/TkQhyT5.jpg









Today I take such work routinely in stride without a second thought which goes to show that by continually pushing the envelope you will be amazed what you can accomplish.

Go ahead and surprise yourself............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Poetic License:

Might I be excused for a bit of poetic license for whilst the flavor of the Demolisher cannon is still intact, the oversized dimensions required a bit more detail.

http://i.imgur.com/RDXTwow.jpg









The photos reveals that my work isn't very symmetrical but it will do.

http://i.imgur.com/7les40Y.jpg









Onward to the trunnion mount...........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Truncated Trunnion Mounts:

Or as I call it, "An exercise in perseverance."

http://i.imgur.com/2xbwdq8.jpg









I started with five 1,0 MM discs (Same as the one pictured here) and glued them together with the plastic cement (red labeled tube above the disc.

When dried I rough sanded the edge of the stack round.

I then penciled a smaller circle so I had a line I could sand down to taking care not to cut into the larger diameter outer disc edge.

Progressing from rough sandpaper, to file, to diamond emery file, until the bevel is smooth; perhaps 10 to 15 minutes of filing.

I then gave the edge a coat of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and set aside to dry.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I :Heart: My Demolisher Cannon

The basic Demolisher Cannon is done and all that's left to do is the peripheral detail

http://i.imgur.com/ci0DW3x.jpg









I like the fact that it can be elevated............

http://i.imgur.com/2KEo1zB.jpg









Next the sponsons.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Excellent work, loving this thread


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Looking fantastic.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Sponsons:

First order of business is the sponsons and turrets are too small. When I first set up this model I had nothing but my unpracticed eye to rely on and my best guess was correct as far as an original Baneblade sponson housing and turret but woefully inadequate for the oversized beast this has become. 

http://i.imgur.com/pKTlc4e.jpg









My newest sized turret figures to 22 MM in height and 25 MM in diameter.

Never the less, the rotation mechanism remains the same starting with a fixed dowel secured with an axle screw, a piece of PVC tubing for the rotation sleeve and a styrene veneer for a base material to adhere the detail.

http://i.imgur.com/VWhmWZZ.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Cooling Exhaust Vents:

The muzzle brakes or cooling exhaust ports at the mouth of the cannon; 16 precise drilled holes about the periphery.

Somehow I managed this all those years ago but for the life of me I cannot remember how I did it? 

http://i.imgur.com/PqhyXfS.jpg









So I'm inventing a new procedure cutting a drilling the holes into 0.020 styrene sheeting. 

http://i.imgur.com/yfnZL2B.jpg









We'll see how this works out...........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Two Methods:

Drilling the holes in the muzzle ring is exacting work and if you use a pin drill bit there is a tendency that either the bit will break or it will walk to the edge and ruin the work.

http://i.imgur.com/ITkzkj5.jpg









In my previous post I showed my first inclination on making these holes; i.e. marking the positions and drilling the holes with the tip of a # 11 Xacto knife blade used as an auger. This fulfills two purposes in that it give a very fine point pilot hole plus the stability of a much wider bit so there is less tendency for the tip to snap off. After augering the hole on the marked side I flipped the work and reamed the obverse side as well to give a more straight sided appearing hole.

The second method I came up with (The barrel on the left side of the picture) I marked and cut out the overlay disc and tack glued to a section of half inch 'Evergreen' tubing, drilled pilot holes with the Xacto blade as before, inserted a length of 7/16 inch tubing and trimmed the outer edge of the disc with a curved emery file. I then cut out the bore diameter from the disc and flied smooth with a curved needle file.

When completely shaped I sliced off the disc from the half inch tube and sanded the residual glue from the obverse side and reamed as before.

I then glued the finished work to the barrel muzzle.

Either way is equally simple and the result seems acceptable.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Keeping It Simple:

I have a miniature drill index and it's around here somewhere but I rarely these days have a use for it.

I find the #11 Xacto blade provides for almost all my fine drill hole needs. especially when as in this case you are working on a disc barely a half inch in diameter.

http://i.imgur.com/xeDufhM.jpg









As stated above the fine point acts as an adequate pilot hole drill and the tapered tip enlarges the requisite hole to any reasonable diameter.

http://i.imgur.com/usQGkXU.jpg









After that you can utilize the same blade to carve out larger holes as I shall be doing when I finish the bore on this, the Demolisher cannon.

The added beauty of using this blade is with a fine file it can be resharpened.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Preliminaries Dispensed with:

Okay so with the preliminaries dispensed with we can get to the actual plotting and boring of these holes finding the center, erecting the perpendicular axis by employing the arc and straightedge and compass technique and subdividing by eye the quarters into 16 more or less equal divisions which is the number of cooling ports in the typical Baneblade muzzle.

http://i.imgur.com/n8VbksL.jpg









Below we see the 0.020 inch thick disc glued to the end of the muzzle slightly oversized to allow for the frail nature of the constructed holed disc.

http://i.imgur.com/vnbzSVJ.jpg









Below the finished rim sanded and accented with graphite to show the relief of the 16 muzzle ports.

http://i.imgur.com/eiObdYw.jpg









And finally the main armament in place on the hull displaying a nice added touch to the overall basic detail of the model.

http://i.imgur.com/VWON0zj.jpg


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Blackadder said:


>


I think this is particularly impressive. On a quick glance this looks sculptural and of a single piece, not assembled bit by bit.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

:blush: Please, my modesty.



Thanks for the reply,

Twice As Voluminous:

I held off as long as I could but ultimately I decided the side sponsons were just too small for a tank of this magnitude. What armament I choose is still in the idea stage but the sponsons will be twice as voluminous as those on the standard Baneblade.

http://i.imgur.com/lCy1fF3.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Dangling preposition:

Or what's a Heaven for?

Framing the sponson appendages to bulk out the size is a daunting task when under the influence of a triple Martini That's eight and a half ounces of the finest kind (Really the cheap stuff at a £ a liter) but none the less having a go at model building at 3 sheets is a bit of a no, no so anyway as long as I can work the keys I'll persevere.

As stated before the bulk of the sponsons is deemed inadequate and the necessary adjustments are in place and soon the work shall continue apace.

http://i.imgur.com/cY72wvU.jpg









One of the beauties of scratchbuilding is if you don't like what you see , change it.......


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## GrimzagGorwazza (Aug 5, 2010)

After having reviewed several of your plogs I'm afraid my Mad doc has come to the conclusion that to be building with this level of intricacy with your scratch builds, you must be mad as a fish. With this in mind, for your own safety and that of those around you, we're going to have to insist that you surrender all vehicles larger than a buggy to us for safe keeping. You really have no one to blame for this but yourself.

Seriously though these builds are truly impressive, I wish I could come close to building something this precisely, but I know that the fact of the matter is I would never have enough focus to see it all the way through. I'm looking forwards to seeing this one finished.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

That ain't gonna work on a superior mentality (Mind Control Please!)

Most Gratifying:

Domestic tranquility; this week the washer leaked and soaked the bedroom carpet. The stand pipe was compromised and the drain tube too short all of which promulgated "arse holes and elbows" corrective measures to resolve the incident; fortunately the Blackadder prevailed and the situation was set to rights and he celebrated with a "Kraken Blast" and managed to also increase his effort on the Landkreuzer (subsequently dubbed "The Kraken") 

http://i.imgur.com/aMWCO8e.jpg









"Any who" the Sponsons continued apace and seem rather adequate considering the travails your's truly suffered at the hand of fickle fate; bringing you the latest update of this monumental project.

http://i.imgur.com/LRTbEZ5.jpg









I like these Sponsons much better than my original iteration.

http://i.imgur.com/qwIG0pk.jpg









"Never be satisfied with "Good Enough" Has ever been My Mantra!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Really coming together so well now, splendid old boy, just splendid


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Last Major Components:

With the basic sponsons completed the task of detailing can begin.

http://i.imgur.com/TjyxZ9O.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/StO7ilW.jpg









This is where the fun of scratchbuilding really begins.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Blackadder said:


> "Kraken Blast"


Is this some hitherto unknown to me drink involving deliciously spiced rum? If so, please share your recipe!

The vehicle is impressive indeed. Are you going to go for a similar functional look to the baneblade or will you make this one a study in the application of gothic art to the super-MBT?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> Is this some hitherto unknown to me drink involving deliciously spiced rum? If so, please share your recipe!
> 
> The vehicle is impressive indeed. Are you going to go for a similar functional look to the baneblade or will you make this one a study in the application of gothic art to the super-MBT?


It's going to look like a really big Baneblade......

https://www.masterofmalt.com/rum/kraken-black-spiced-rum/

4 ounces of Kraken Black Spiced Rum

1 wedge each; Lime, Lemon, & Orange squeezed into and then dropped into drink.

Served in a Red wine goblet over ice 










Caution: To be imbibed only when seated; this is powerful stuff.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Kraken is good stuff. 

One of my favorites is to make a boiler maker using Kraken and a good India pale ale.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Three Times the Charm;

This is the third time I have attempted to replicate the engine cowling of the Baneblade The first was my Armorcast upgrade, the second was my Titan Hunter (Shown here) and now The Land Kruezer where the parts are about 1/8th bigger.

http://i.imgur.com/6XU916i.jpg









Beginning with the 'Chiclet' shaped air intakes and the rear grill work here shown half completed........

http://i.imgur.com/k3tMbG9.jpg









The tools required are shown.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Your precision with these is excellent. I got out some plasticard for the first time yesterday and found it bowed a lot when cut with a scalpel, sometimes leading to really messed up lines.

That was a nice drink, my thanks! To give you one in return, I heartily recommend wetting your throat with crushed ice, home made ginger beer and Gosling's Black Seal rum. It isn't spiced, but it's so dark it may as well be. Also a powerful brew.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> Your precision with these is excellent. I got out some plasticard for the first time yesterday and found it bowed a lot when cut with a scalpel, sometimes leading to really messed up lines.
> 
> That was a nice drink, my thanks! To give you one in return, I heartily recommend wetting your throat with crushed ice, home made ginger beer and Gosling's Black Seal rum. It isn't spiced, but it's so dark it may as well be. Also a powerful brew.


Self-Taught Tutorial:

You need a "Utility Knife" not a scalpel. use the score and snap method outlined below. a single firm score is all that is needed with 1,0 to 1,5 MM white sheet styrene. A couple of passes for thicker material. 

While we are on the subject this is a good opportunity to demonstrate how I cut clear styrene. The following method I use also for cutting white styrene up to 1,5 mm as well but being softer than 'clear' styrene white styrene does not require as many score cuts to make a separation.

Clear styrene is rather more brittle than white styrene so you can save yourself a lot of grief by not trying to cut around corners or curves, chances are the sheet will shatter and always in the wrong way.

Plan your work and cut only straight cuts; this may seem wasteful but much less so than failed angled or curved cuts.

First I measured the width of the strip I required; in this case 17 MM.

I scratched a small marker where I wanted the cut to be:

http://i.imgur.com/BGEmQY5.jpg









Employing my utility knife and a fairly accurate combination square I scored a fine line on the surface of the clear styrene. I would suggest a hard surface and not a foam cutting mat as shown here but the cutting mat shows the scored line better.

http://i.imgur.com/B8RsdlW.jpg









Once you have the scored line, you can either remove the square or chance deepening the score with repeated passes with the knife but bear in mind that each pass increases the possibility of slipping or cracking the styrene.

I removed the square after the second pass and then after relied on the depth of the score to keep the knife from slipping.

I made half a dozen more passes until the score was deep enough to attempt snapping the line.

Try to snap the line gently and evenly apply pressure along the length of the cut instead of a localized point.

If it seems you need undue pressure score the line deeper rather than applying more pressure which could shatter the sheet.

http://i.imgur.com/e2268W3.jpg









The result is a cleanly cut strip that will require little or no final sanding.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tools of the Trade:

There has been a few questions regarding the amount of tools necessary to build my projects. I do have a lot of special tools that I need for work. I have been a mechanic all my adult life but to work on styrene models the material being so soft and malleable I find the most basic hand tools are sufficient to perform any of the work you see here.

Aside from the tools pictured here I would add an X-acto razor saw and the small diameter X-acto knife with a goodly supply of the # 11 blades.

When I get into the fine detail work I will break out my Jeweler's files as well but aside from that this is all I have used so far on the Thunderhawk.

 

You can see that:

A good quality combination square is essential.

A good quality utility knife with a supply of sharp blades.

A medium sized X-acto knife handle with #18 X-acto chisel blade. chisel.

A wooden cutting board is essential as opposed to one of those plastic self healing cutting mats. That's just my preference but I'm a creature of habit.

A 8" sized single cut file. 

Home made sanding blocks with coarse and 80 grit sandpaper adhered with double back tape 

A 6" scale graded in 1/64th inch and millimeters.

A calculator

Sharp Pencils

I use Ambroid ProWeld thin plastic cement but as the brush is so clunky and thick and the bottle so easy to tip over I refill the Tamiya thin plastic cement bottle; it has a much more stable bottle and a very fine tipped brush. When the fluid level in the bottle gets too low I drop in a few glass marbles to raise the level.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I took sequential pictures on how to make these but they were so boring I decided not to post them.

http://i.imgur.com/HH560q4.jpg









So instead I'll go with, "Then a miracle happened."


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Twin Diesels:

The exhaust stacks temporarily tacked in place.

http://i.imgur.com/7VCHImi.jpg









They seem massive enough

http://i.imgur.com/1iOgdE5.jpg









We're go for insertion. I really love these quad stacks. cooling detail yet to come.


http://i.imgur.com/gnOAdef.jpg









Martini time!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

I tried to do my engine vents the way you did, on my shadowsword but lacked the skill so plumbed for kit bashing and used doors off a rhino, once again your work has inspired me to dismantel and rebuild. On a more serious note, I have read some poor reviews on Kraken rum!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> ..............I have read some poor reviews on Kraken rum!


Obviously some Kritins(Cretins) of poor perspicacity; this is some potent stuff!

In point of reference a quadruple (That's eight ounces of 80 proof alcohol) doesn't phase me a bit but four ounces of this stuff; WOOF!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Well as usual old boy, I shall bow to the experience of a subject matter experts such as yourself, at the moment I'm relaxing with a large honey rum, good for cooling ones humour


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Thanks for the advice, it's really great to be able to see your method of work and hopefully improve my own by imitation.

Progress is looking sound, you have upscaled very well.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Exhaust Shielding:

Trying to make the exhaust shield panels and not too enthused at the results. Once made I'll try them out on the hull but I think I can do better.

Anyway the basic design/ fabrication steps are doable it's just the results that are flawed. 

http://i.imgur.com/i2Ev3gV.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

I would have put the holes in the tube tops and left the shielding solid or maybe some linear vents


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> I would have put the holes in the tube tops and left the shielding solid or maybe some linear vents


Great idea, I believe you've got something there although not in the way you describe. You may have set me on the better course. Thx!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Exhaust cooling plates V2.0:

Thanks to Oldman78........

The second try at making a convincing hole pattern on these cooling plate for the mufflers. Once the hole pattern glue is dry I shall drill out the centers of each ring and sand the plats paper thin and bend around the exhaust stack and glue in place

http://i.imgur.com/aMf1jd7.jpg









Provided all goes well.........


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Blackadder said:


> Great idea, I believe you've got something there although not in the way you describe. You may have set me on the better course. Thx!



Glad I could help, even if in a round about manner


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

They All Laughed:

At Christopher Columbus yada yada yada.......

It worked; symmetry and toughness now all needs to be done is score the backside to make the curve and I'll have duplicated this rather intense hole array.

http://i.imgur.com/PLjHHfg.jpg









The problem was not so much the pattern of the holes but making the material strong enough to take the curves without cracks and splits radiating from around the cutouts when the material is bent and glued.

http://i.imgur.com/IPw7zAA.jpg









We'll see if my idea will solve that problem........


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Ahh we await with bated breath, night shift again tonight for me so I'll check this thread when I'm lurkin instead of workin!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Martini Time:

Cause for celebration, the project worked!

http://i.imgur.com/xPG33wS.jpg









So well in point of fact that I have already carved off the previous effort in preparation for installing the new style heat dissipating shield.

http://i.imgur.com/BjFZq5E.jpg









I hope to have the completed mufflers ready this evening.

Martini time!

Oh just to show I do 'F' up now and then; I made the hole row plates much longer than was necessary. :blush:


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Ahh, Much Better:

Good enough has never been my mantra; with a bit of elbow grease and an unhealthy dose of OCD I have a much better set of exhausts than my first effort. 

http://i.imgur.com/wxPn2sL.jpg









All totaled perhaps about two to three hours of labor for these highly complex minor components but a lot of the sanding and shaping was done whist watching DVD movies so not much actual time was wasted.

http://i.imgur.com/OLw6s9W.









Seen here temporarily tacked in place just for show at this time as all the rivets need to be filed down to a uniform height.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

That worked very well indeed, good job on the execution!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Excellent sir just excellent, really great execution


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Quite a Chunk of Resin:

Anyone owning a FW Baneblade knows it's quite a chunk of highly detailed resin weighing in at close to a kilo (two pounds).

My Baneblade which I've had for eight or so years was rescued and repaired with TLC and is still my favorite FW vehicle (treaded that is)

This new model is coming along slowly as the detailing is quite exhausting and I do have other commitments but I managed the front 'bolt on' bumper today

http://i.imgur.com/vkADc6K.jpg









and yesterday evening some of the rear detail....

http://i.imgur.com/AIzkjqU.jpg









Slowly but surely it's getting done.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Whatever Insignia This Is:

Well after d*mned near a two month hiatus where in I repaired flood damage and added new baseboard to just about the entire first floor of my humble abode now recarpeted in deoxygenated blood red burgundy plush carpet, I'm back to building models; Yay!

So last night I resumed the outsized Baneblade style Super Duper heavy Stormhammer.

http://i.imgur.com/yy9bDbN.jpg









First order of business was to install the re-enforced armour panel for which the Lucius B'blade is noted. I really like this anachronistic appearance which somehow exemplifies a world lapsing into decay but still has the ability to squander resource on the futility of war. I used 0.030 inch 0,75 MM thickness styrene for the panels as 0.040"/1,0 MM looked too thick. As of right now all the panels are installed and the bitz and gewgaw need to be installed and fabricated and also the umpity ump rivets.

So now the winged skull insignia:

http://i.imgur.com/2yAzfkl.jpg









Seen here in the first stages with a few skulls scrounged from spare CoD floor panels and mounted on 7,0MM disks...........


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

You are back! You are alive! Gods be praised, you have been missed old boy. I'm up to my arse in voluntary but snowballing renovations at the moment, so I feel your pain somewhat, I look forward to more wit wisdom and beverage recipes


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

I'm in the beginning stages of a project of the larger kind myself and this thread will be my bible along the way. I want to thank you for some great ideas and an out of this world inspirational project to tag along to.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the replies; you will be posting a WIP log of the build I trust? and yeah I'm still alive and will be sharing my "finest kind" recipes along with my somewhat vain attempts at humor 

D'oh!

Of course it would help if I actually showed the "Winged Skull insignia" I am attempting to replicate; 










http://i.imgur.com/amrthaz.jpg









I'm a bit out of practice posting.


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Blackadder said:


> Thanks for the replies; you will be posting a WIP log of the build I trust?.



I'll let you know when the construction begins.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thx,

Aplomb:

One question I am frequently asked is how I seem to be able to handle such small objects so easily and work so quickly so what better time to answer than right here and now. 

If you have big fat fingers like mine with short nails it's trying to attempt to maneuver tiny parts so what I do is lightly touch the part with the tip of my #11 Xacto blade. 

http://i.imgur.com/Zi4EUjW.jpg









Then a spot of 'thinset' glue and touch the piece to the glue to release it from the blade and use the same blade to push the part into the correct position; you usually have minutes before the glue sets completely.

http://i.imgur.com/0NjiHC4.jpg









I use the same procedure for placing rivets.

I'll try to take better images later............


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

I use the very same technique when handling rivets and small stuff myself. What would you do without a trusty knife?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah I realize that's no big revelation to experienced modelers but to beginners it may be helpful. I myself when I started scratchbuilding in 2007 would have welcomed these shortcuts instead of having to discovered these techniques on my own.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Bit Crude:

But with a bit of practice these might just work out; 'tis a pity I need just three..........

http://i.imgur.com/r0yOeKa.jpg









So these will have to suffice.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Looking good. I never seem to have a slow to set glue on hand, and whenever I do fate conspires to blow dog hairs all over it... the fate of those of us living in tropical climates with hairy dogs and perpetually activated fans.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Eat the dog.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Blackadder said:


> Eat the dog.


They dont taste too good!
Flash burn the hair off the dog!


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

I just read this whole thread through. *phuu* Now I have a question that arose at post#1. What is the superstructure made from? Foamboard?


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Blackadder said:


> Eat the dog.





Oldman78 said:


> They dont taste too good!
> Flash burn the hair off the dog!


The situation would be dire indeed to see that happen!

Luckily, the foes I must beat before the dog to get anywhere near your skill level are my impatience and my ineptitude.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Moriouce said:


> I just read this whole thread through. *phuu* Now I have a question that arose at post#1. What is the superstructure made from? Foamboard?





Blackadder said:


> Black Styrene:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/UisXGyh.jpg
> 
> ...


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Blackadder said:


> Well people who have been following my threads for years know but to newcomers and new forums that I am posting on will be surprised to learn that the black plastic comes from IBM printer cartridges. My former company threw them out by the hundreds each year.


haha! Totaly missed that! :grin: Do you believe that Foamboard would make a sturdy enough superstructure for this kind of job?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Moriouce said:


> haha! Totaly missed that! :grin: Do you believe that Foamboard would make a sturdy enough superstructure for this kind of job?


My Warhound titan hull and head was/is made of foam board as is the hull of my Thunderhawk but it posed more problems than it circumvented so I do not recommend the use of it unless you are constructing a paper model.

http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42297

http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=122810


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Stormhammer Update:

Slow going with the thousands of rivets required to make this model come alive; I'm about halfway there.


http://i.imgur.com/7S4QdUL.jpg









I'm rather pleased how the winged skulls turned out
In the view below under the Demolisher cannon...

http://i.imgur.com/eb0S3ud.jpg









and these on the tread well skirting....

http://i.imgur.com/fO2Jd5J.jpg









and a close up....

http://i.imgur.com/c1qSq99.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Fabulous, keep up the great work!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

View Ports:

One thing I've been dreading making is the view ports. These delicate items are frequently damaged on Baneblade resin models and I have heretofore been less than successful in duplicating them in styrene but I have stumbled onto a seemingly viable method which if successful I'll give a breakdown in the procedure.

http://i.imgur.com/KuESSrr.jpg









The port on the center right is just about finished and only needs be filed to the proper angle for mounting on the casement.

The two mounted on the strip are extras in case of failure............


http://i.imgur.com/I9Cd5gh.jpg


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Here is an extraction from a private chat I had with @Blackadder. He thought it beneficial to the masses that it be posted here aswell. 

M -What problems arose using foamboard? What thickness did you use? Would it be solved with thicker sheets? What I'm planing is a larger Ork vehicle and my plan is to build the superstructure with foamboard and then cover it with thin sheets of plasticard. What problems would I encounter?

B -I used 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick foam filled posterboard and I foresee no problems with using that material for a fortress structure. My problem was adhering large expanses of thin plasticard to the poster paper and finally solved it with 5-7 minute epoxy which was messy and sometimes not successful plus as my skills improved I regretted I could not install an interior in my T'hawk and Warhound. For a few bucks more I could have build all out of industrial quality sheet styrene which is actually cheaper than posterboard and styrene glue compatible. 

:good:


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

At the pointy end of the project ey Blackadder? At least your victory martini will be thoroughly well earned!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> At the pointy end of the project ey Blackadder? At least your victory martini will be thoroughly well earned!


Oh I've been imbibing Martinis right along earned or not, never fear but yeah that will go down fine come evening today.

99%:

About 99% of the rivet detail is completed as seen in these three photos:

http://i.imgur.com/Hfjz53Z.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/eSmgUg1.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/1DVnwku.jpg









and I've started on the headlights which I am modeling on the Stormblade assemblies only slightly larger

http://i.imgur.com/sVAureR.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

This Way Lies Insanity:

I was going great guns and about to close up the roof panels when the thought struck me, "Why not make them illuminate!!!" Well there may be just barely enough room for two small LEDs so I decided to give it a go.

http://i.imgur.com/3IaRBWo.jpg









I removed the opaque front panel and installed clear styrene. The lens bezels are 9/16 inch/ 7,1 MM tubing. after painting I'll install the lenses replete with reinforcing rods (No point in doing that now as it would be the devil to paint around and not smear onto the lens.

http://i.imgur.com/ZBBdOtE.jpg









You can see by the image below this is a complex little structure......

http://i.imgur.com/2KP7POH.jpg


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Complex indeed but very cool to see. What are you thinking in terms of accessing the battery? Will this require a major hull modification to have a 'hatch'?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

The track housing modular construction allows for the tracks to be removed at will. There is ample room for batteries and a switch.

http://i.imgur.com/Ze2clFy.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Madness and genius are oft mistaken, and you sir are the latter, inspiring yet again.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

"Madness is a state of mind, genius is ofttimes spawned of desperation." (quoth the Blackadder):grin:

Reinforced Lenses:

Okay the headlight housings are pretty bland at this stage so today we are going to try to install the reinforcing rods in the lenses.

http://i.imgur.com/DbumMuL.jpg









I started with 0.010 inch clear styrene and glued it to 0.25 inch tubing the outside diameter of which fits snugly into the 9/16th inch tubing used as the bezel.

http://i.imgur.com/uvg9JR5.jpg









The 1/4 inch lens is only temporarily glued to the 1/4 inch tube end.

The reason for this is twofold in that it is easier to work with the reinforcing rod when it is out in the open as opposed to the cramped space inside the bezel and secondly it will be easier to install after the painting of the headlight housing is finished rather than try to mask the lens already installed.

Next post please........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Reinforced Lenses II:

It's a bit difficult to perceive but the rods are installed on both lenses and the right one has been filed to the proper diameter.......

http://i.imgur.com/SNMFzsM.jpg









Hey, I'm making this up as I proceed; whether it works or not will be as much a surprise to me as to you............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Reinforced Lenses III

Not too bad for a first attempt. Of course the one installed will have to be straightened but the concept is viable.

http://i.imgur.com/27xXbV7.jpg









With both lenses installed temporarily I can proceed with the LED lighting......

http://i.imgur.com/q5WXPa8.jpg









Questions are always welcome.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Barrel Time:

First a relative size photo of the work thus far accomplished.

http://i.imgur.com/mRzNixC.jpg









Then an explanation as to why I think it necessary to include the drop tanks on my Lankreuzer. The Maus tank had a fuel efficiency of 185 meters per gallon. This hypothetical tank weighing in at 4 times the mass would need a lot of extra fuel just to make it operational and I suppose would dump the aux barrels when combat was expected.

http://i.imgur.com/XAW588N.jpg









B'sides I think the barrels look cool.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Maybe the barrels would be for reactor waste, I don't really see internal combustion being a suitable power source for something so vast.

Looking fantastic, have you inserted the LEDs for your headlamps or is that a later step. When you do, I'd like to see a low background light picture of it to see how the headlamp project worked out.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> Maybe the barrels would be for reactor waste, I don't really see internal combustion being a suitable power source for something so vast.


What appeals to me is the anachronistic appearance of these apocalyptic vehicles. I see a lot of 20th century technology in these vehicles (Actually WWI) and unless the laws of physics has been repealed the theoretical best a combustion engine can be is about 25% efficient:













> Looking fantastic, have you inserted the LEDs for your headlamps or is that a later step. When you do, I'd like to see a low background light picture of it to see how the headlamp project worked out.


Everything is ready for the LEDs and the circuit but I haven't installed it yet but since I managed Lights in the Warlord: 

http://i.imgur.com/kCpr4pF.jpg









I feel these will be a snap....


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

More brilliant work, the fuel tanks look cool, just like you see on Russian soviet era tanks, and 40k vehicles are made of plasteel and ceramite and adamantium, plasteel I would assume is light like a plastic and hard like steel, ceramite being some sort of ceramic, again nice and light and adamantium every nerd knows is super light and strong and just gosh darn fabulous, so super heavy vehicles would be viable with quality deisel engines


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> More brilliant work, the fuel tanks look cool, just like you see on Russian soviet era tanks, and 40k vehicles are made of plasteel and ceramite and adamantium, plasteel I would assume is light like a plastic and hard like steel, ceramite being some sort of ceramic, again nice and light and adamantium every nerd knows is super light and strong and just gosh darn fabulous, so super heavy vehicles would be viable with quality deisel engines


Regardless the Baneblade is reputed to mass 319 tonnes 

http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Baneblade

almost three time the weight of a 'Maus' and my Landkreuzer I calculate at 500+ tonnes an incredible mass for a land vehicle exotic materials notwithstanding. A Baneblade sans sponsons is the size of an average US bi-level home including the height; the Landkreuzer the size of the average McMansion(sic).


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Ignore G.W when it comes to fluff on vehicles and weapons, they have not a clue, christ they have basilisks being worse than ww1 artillery, don't think anyone in that place has ever read a copy of Janes or a military history book, even Dan Abnett writes shockingly bad weapon fluff a lot


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Germ Warfare:

Well I got the shot and I got the flu which has laid me up for the better part of a se'nnight. Today I managed to put a few touches on the aux barrels including mounting one temporarily on the rear fender.


http://i.imgur.com/26WvZG8.jpg









The Aquila is FW brass but I cut off the backing plate so the eagle stands out better and I also glued on a 0.020 panel of styrene and added a bevel so the icon will stand out better.

http://i.imgur.com/WcRtNdF.jpg









Figuring the angle of the mount plate and mounting the eagle perpendicular was a major chore in my debilitated condition so you might say I had no fun making these items this week.

http://i.imgur.com/PlnhMMa.jpg









Next the sponson guns.............


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Get well soon Blackadder, you are doing very well indeed so far!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Still not well 4 days into this very strange flu..........

Sponson Turrets Revisited

I've put this off long enough the sponson turrets begin very labor intensive what with the minutia and the near microscopic rivets to these tired old eyes. Someday I'm going to have to invest in a magnifying lens and light source.

http://i.imgur.com/XFiKvK9.jpg









One thing I am disappointed in is the spiral copper conduit not being quite small enough in scale diameter.

http://i.imgur.com/1kxkdV9.jpg









The rest of the sponson minutia seemed to fall into place and I look forward to the manufacture of the guns as they will be relatively easier.

http://i.imgur.com/2ZLzvTG.jpg









To recap in the last two images these will be just upscale replicas of the Baneblade guns. Dual lascannons and quad bolters seem to me superfluous.


http://i.imgur.com/aAQmZP0.jpg









Likewise for the centrally mounted turret bolters.

Of course I shall entertain any suggestions regarding this............ Thx


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

I know that Autocannons are the domain of Astartes rather than Imperial Guard usually, but I think the chunky look of a pair of gattling cannon barrels could be a good upscale for you here. 

The Lascannon is not represented equally in all things. I recommend looking at the Aegis Defence Line kit that comes with an 'icarus las cannon' or the twin lascannons on the fortress of redemption turret as examples of bigger variants that may make more appropriate references.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Homemade Bolters:

Thanks to all for the suggestions but since these parts will be interchangeable with other weapons I might as well just duplicate the original Baneblade armament and leave the exoctic weaponry for another day (Like that'll happen).

So below we see the preliminary rectangular bolter housing roughly dressed but of a size within a fraction (1/10 of a MM) of each other these pieces so far number 12 components in a structure 5/8 inch long.

http://i.imgur.com/OdZPPkA.jpg









Pity about the overexposure....

http://i.imgur.com/AtmgdoS.jpg









these are quite intricate as are all FW creations; by breaking the subject piece down to the basic components the details are easily duplicated or at least I hope they will be easily duplicated.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

To make the beast more beastly you could just have twin las cannons atop the bolter sponson, this would be added fire power without drifting toward more esoteric 40k weapons, and inline with the general upscaling of the baneblade, also would you consider quad mounting the heavy bolters in the sponsons for the same reasoning


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> To make the beast more beastly you could just have twin las cannons atop the bolter sponson, this would be added fire power without drifting toward more esoteric 40k weapons, and inline with the general upscaling of the baneblade, also would you consider quad mounting the heavy bolters in the sponsons for the same reasoning


I'm not familiar with the basic rules of the game; do all these extra guns count as increased firepower or is there just a standard formula for a Stormhammer and all this extra guns and stuff just window dressing?


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

It generally gives extra firepower by allowing re rolls of the dice when trying to hit your target or extra attack dice depending what rules the game designer has decreed. The landraider prometheus from forgeworld has quad heavy bolter sponsons with the bolters in pairs, the gaming term is "twin linked" this allows re-rolls to hit your target, allowing greater hit probability which for imperial troops is a boost as they only have 50/50 chance of hitting. So in short YES to both gaming boost and window dressing as it looks fecking cool


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the info,

Bleary Eyed:

These tiny guns have got me bleary eyed God knows how I be able to paint 40K figures if just manufacturer 'em taxes my vision but at any rate their done except for the ammo belts which should be a cakewalk. 

http://i.imgur.com/s59uiuW.jpg









When it came to it each gun has about 30 parts not counting the still to be fabricated ammo belts.

http://i.imgur.com/l4Dvtwi.jpg









I'll post a tutorial when I make the center bolters.....


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Never Ending Bolter;

It seems like I've been working on these bolters forever but truth be known I've been doing a lot of other projects as well. Today I finally put the finishing touches on all three bolter arrays and as I photographed them I mounted the first into it's sponson..........

http://i.imgur.com/6uLE0FP.jpg









so you are seeing it before the glue has even set..........

http://i.imgur.com/XxNKCVx.jpg









I just need to add the final mount rails and rivets to the drum.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Sponsons and Wing Turrets Operational*

*To the extent that they can rotate on their respective mounts that is.....

The drum mounted bolters can swivel 90° in their housings and the ( Soon to be fabricated lascannons) Lascannon turrets 180° on their axes 

http://i.imgur.com/H3ZdWo0.jpg









The center bolter turret is a bit of a disappointment rotating only about 15° on it's axis but that is still better than some real world counterparts.

In all I am very pleased with the operation of these movable turrets considering until midnight last I had no inkling of how I would broach the issue of making these function through their intended arcs...

http://i.imgur.com/n4EQLEr.jpg









I am particularly proud of the sponson mounted drums and may retrofit my resin Superheavies with the same mechanism.... someday.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

It's alive! Looking great!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Mere Tyro;

Back in the days when I was a mere tyro at scratch building I ventured into refurbishing an Armorcast Baneblade to make it conform to the elegant FW version. This culminated in producing lascannons for said Armorcast vehicle and having not the skills to replicate the lasers in styrene I opted for producing them in brass tubing which provided the thin wall tubes I needed to replicate the delicate gun barrels.

The images below demonstrate the result of that early effort.

http://i.imgur.com/h3TwTc3.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/7pexlwP.jpg









and even today I have to say I am still proud of the resultant early effort assemblies.

Fast forwarding to the present I find myself in much the same predicament and although the guns should be easier since they are to be replicated in styrene due to their larger dimensions I stll have to fabricate many of the same pieces in much the same way.

http://i.imgur.com/DoFGzgF.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/Eh6TlzZ.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/4OKjl3T.jpg









If anything my early work surpasses my current work. IMHO


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Close Inspection:

My effort this day does does not bear up to close inspection. Whilst okay from a cursory glance the fine detail of these pieces appear crude under scrutiny.

http://i.imgur.com/DxZAAcF.jpg









I'll proceed with the work but may have to refine it later if it appears too second rate.

http://i.imgur.com/k2fPFBy.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/UOqLTur.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/gsraq6g.jpg









Hopefully more to follow today........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Penny:

For scale, 'F' it; I lost my draft (very irritating) I had this post set up with an explaining regarding excessive fine detail but lost it so here's the update sans explanation:


http://i.imgur.com/KjobWpc.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/iRBiRfk.jpg









Mounted cannons coming up........


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Too hard on yourself brother Blackadder, they look really well, a little tweak maybe, but once painted will look great. What did you use for the rings at the base of the barrel?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Ha!

Okay here's the Lascannons installed as promised and not too shoddy I must say; better than I expected anyway. 

http://i.imgur.com/3xym5uy.jpg









This series of images show the movement capabilities of the turrets which for some reason I deem necessary. Everyone else is satisfied with static models.

http://i.imgur.com/f2ctRKd.jpg









And an overview...........

http://i.imgur.com/qZ47L5l.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> .......... What did you use for the rings at the base of the barrel?


0.031 inch Kester "44" resin core solder Ag 5.5, (Lead/Silver alloy) I have tons of the stuff so it seems; well pounds of it anyway. the stuff retails for about $75 bucks a spool. It's extremely malleable and good enough for this purpose but I suppose the _*"uh oh"*_ squad will have a hissy fit that I am employing lead alloy on a model.


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Mindblowing and perfection! This is so inspirational and I most humbly thank you for this!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Blackadder said:


> 0.031 inch Kester "44" resin core solder Ag 5.5, (Lead/Silver alloy) I have tons of the stuff so it seems; well pounds of it anyway. the stuff retails for about $75 bucks a spool. It's extremely malleable and good enough for this purpose but I suppose the _*"uh oh"*_ squad will have a hissy fit that I am employing lead alloy on a model.


Well I never let my kids near lead models, matches are okay, they never chew on matches!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> Well I never let my kids near lead models, matches are okay, they never chew on matches!


When I was a kid my grandfather had molds for Revolutionary (American) Soldiers, Artillery and Cavalry; marchers and shooters and made a complete army of cast lead figures. What must those molds be worth today. I played with those for years with no ill effects even thought they weren't painted (Lead Based Paint perhaps). We were made of sterner stuff in those days. Ha! :laugh:


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Done:

Woohoo! colour me done. I just this evening mounted the spare bogies and track links, main hatch, Commander machine gun, antenna, flare arrays, and assorted icons and this baby is ready for paint.

http://i.imgur.com/XWKBhcD.jpg









Rear and engine compartment; Done!

http://i.imgur.com/sGojEAi.jpg









Question about the icons; Aquilae, winged skulls, wreathed skulls, skulls in general; what's up with that? Is there any rhyme or reason to these decorations? Any mixture of them that could be in error? 

http://i.imgur.com/HKDBujQ.jpg









Low angle front quarter view, she's all business now....

http://i.imgur.com/xRZs29R.jpg









Whoops; lens flare...

http://i.imgur.com/hUjqeSD.jpg









and two high angle shots

http://i.imgur.com/d8vNdXt.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/WeCrYks.jpg









Shudda took a high angle rear shot... Damn!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Rear View:

Looks like I missed a few rivets ;p

http://i.imgur.com/3cEtqcx.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/W9qkf3R.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/CwIhlAw.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/3N2gTpW.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/AFeKdEC.jpg









Martini Time!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Stellar work old boy just stellar work! It has been an inspiring joy to watch this come to fruition!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

In Her Prime II:

Well not so long after all, this project was about six months to this point. Now that the primer is applied I can see a few areas that need punching up but the overall effect is satisfactory. 

So what you are saying Blackadder is that you are happy with what can ostensibly called "Just a bigger Baneblade?" Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/sIZgcaN.jpg









Yeah.

http://i.imgur.com/EQZtbwO.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/eBEcFPh.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/UR7G5YQ.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/uIZtfPD.jpg









Well at least I don't have that half started scratch model sitting around in my crowded "To Do" Shelf anymore.

Now it's on my "To Paint" Shelf.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Will it be painted the same as the baneblade in the picture or get a different scheme? This thread has me thinking of a "land ship" but that would be quite a bit down the road


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Baneblade in the picture was India ink over prime, pretty much basic paint scheme. Since then the source of that hue paint has dried up so the new primer is quite abit brighter; I seriously doubt I can match the depth of colour. It may be necessary to repaint all my existing forces to maintain homogeneity. i'll do my best as I really like the grey of the Lucius Baneblade.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> Will it be painted the same as the baneblade in the picture or get a different scheme? This thread has me thinking of a "land ship" but that would be quite a bit down the road


I'm a pretty unimaginative fellow and once a combat vehicle reaches a certain size it's quite useless to try to camo' it 'sides I'm partial to grays and blacks. 

Would it be remiss to just say it's a 'Gray Knight' vehicle?


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Absolutely nothing wrong with greys and blacks, my wife despairs of my fondness for grey in my clothing particularly in t- shirts, I was merely wondering if this chap was going to be singled out for special attention. "Unimaginative" is not a word I would associate with you either, I think you are doing yourself a disservice. 

With regards to large vehicles and camouflage, you have a very valid point, but it does also look cool, if/when I get my shadowsword finished, I have a scheme of grey/green to dry.

On a final note to this particular project would you consider or have you considered doing support vehicles such as recovery vehicles or ammunition carriers?


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Oldman78 said:


> recovery vehicles


Hahaha for a beast this size I think Blackadder may have to just model his ceiling like the underside of an imperial starcruiser dropping a space elevator from geosynchronous orbit... Otherwise you'd need cranes the size of titans to get enough upward lift to drag it!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> Hahaha for a beast this size I think Blackadder may have to just model his ceiling like the underside of an imperial starcruiser dropping a space elevator from geosynchronous orbit... Otherwise you'd need cranes the size of titans to get enough upward lift to drag it!


Clearly you are not married. Such modifications of the domestic domain are strictly 'VERBOTTEN' lest a park bench be your forwarding address. 

Since terminal velocity is pretty much a surface phenomenon we cannot rely on drag to slow the capsule down significantly plus the ablation shield would have to be a significant percentage of the total mass of the pod; drogue chutes are likewise ineffective except in the final stage of descent so therefore retro rocket type devices might seem the way to go but the 40K technology implies much more. Considering the FTL capabilities of the 40K spacecraft I presume they have a way to nullify gravity or even possess the capability of producing anti-gravity so the endemic weight (sic) is zero or less. The employment of these devices could allow the pod to descend with the grace of a soap bubble.

Of course with the same anti-gravity capability by just focusing the device on the enemy could rocket them kit and caboodle into space just as easily thereby rendering the whole concept of ground warfare hopelessly anachronistic and the 40K universe moot............


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Iraqiel said:


> Hahaha for a beast this size I think Blackadder may have to just model his ceiling like the underside of an imperial starcruiser dropping a space elevator from geosynchronous orbit... Otherwise you'd need cranes the size of titans to get enough upward lift to drag it!


Sorry mate, I meant "recovery" as in battlefield recovery not planetary. So a vehichle in the same vein as the German bergepanzers, using a baneblade chassis


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> Sorry mate, I meant "recovery" as in battlefield recovery not planetary. So a vehichle in the same vein as the German bergepanzers, using a baneblade chassis


Thanks for the info I knew there were tank recovery vehicles but didn't have a proper name; "Bergepanzers" will figure in my future constructs.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Blackadder said:


> Thanks for the info I knew there were tank recovery vehicles but didn't have a proper name; "Bergepanzers" will figure in my future constructs.



And as always, will be eagerly awaited!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Blackadder said:


> Clearly you are not married. Such modifications of the domestic domain are strictly 'VERBOTTEN' lest a park bench be your forwarding address.


Haha actually am married, but obstacles are made to be overcome, as Mrs Lemon says in Poirot!

Other possible recovery tanks are the Abrams recovery variant and the Hercules recovery tank, as google should be able to show. They usually work in pairs to achieve sufficient lift and traction when pulling these behemoths out of ditches, mud, rivers and the like.

Blackadder, bear in mind that 40k human FTL travel is, as in the movie 'Event Horizon' through a Hell dimension that bridges two points in reality... also the dimension from which the 'psychic' powers are sourced. However, using such powers of unreality to recover tanks would be frowned upon by the Inquisition, I suspect!


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Iraqiel said:


> ...Blackadder, bear in mind that 40k human FTL travel is, as in the movie 'Event Horizon' through a Hell dimension that bridges two points in reality... also the dimension from which the 'psychic' powers are sourced. However, using such powers of unreality to recover tanks would be frowned upon by the Inquisition, I suspect!


I could imagine that's one of the ways daemon engines are inadvertently created. 

Ya' know, a couple of tech priests kibitzing over their tank. "Well on the bright side we got it out of the ditch. On the down side I think it just ate the new gunner. . . . And then made satisfied rumbling noises."


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

*Painting the Super Baneblade:*

Painting the Super Baneblade:

Today I bit the bullet and began painting my Super Baneblade. For those of you unfamiliar with this project, a bit of history. My son and I many years ago were novices in the FW genera of Wargaming hardware so as usually the case my son began collecting Leman Russes and other IG equipment which he and I painted in the popular OD Green and Beige of the Imperial Guard. The Leman Russes looked to me like archaic WWI British tanks with a few turrets so to not take over his projects I started shopping around for a more challenging model to build. It was then that I clapped eyes on the recently introduced Baneblade; it was love at first sight...... until I saw the price!

Not being a millionaire or likely to win a jackpot lottery as I don't buy tickets I thought that it might be fun to try scratch building a Baneblade. I'd never really done any serious scratchbuilding in styrene before but I have built a few "Plank on Frame" sailing ship model hulls with reasonable success. What really started me was finding IBM Ribbon printer cartridges were wonderfully adaptable to making a solid hull framework. At that time I also began a Lucius Warhound because..... well because I'm certifiably crazy but we needn't go there. Well to not make a long story too long I began building the hull, turret and tread housing and had just got to a point where it was beginning to look like a Baneblade when I won a bid on ebay for a derelict Baneblade for a hundred bucks. When it arrived I found my scratch effort was in pretty good proportion but almost half again bigger than the standard FW model.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

My Baker's Dozen Of Super Heavies:

While I'm at it and feeling ambitious this might be an opportune time to finish off the derilicts I've acquired over the years.

All the tanks you see here were purchased on ebay over the past six years in various states of disrepair. I broke them down into their component parts cleaned and refurbished the parts and primed so they are ready for reassembly

http://i.imgur.com/idojgO4.jpg









Some of them need scratch built parts to complete them and one needs a turret; I'll make that into a recovery vehicle.

http://i.imgur.com/PU4Pajn.jpg









Now for a bit of a guessing game. Aside from the obvious Land Kreuzer one of these is entirely scratchbuilt except for a few bitz and one is a rebuilt Armorcast Baneblade built to look like a FW model; can you find them?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> .......................On a final note to this particular project would you consider or have you considered doing support vehicles such as recovery vehicles or ammunition carriers?


See my latest post.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

The scratch build is front row first on the right, and the armour cast is front row second from left, is my best educated guess!

P.s looking forward to the bergbaneblade!


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