# citadel spray gun?



## bobss (May 18, 2008)

what is the citadel spray gun actually use for?

how do you use it ?


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## O'sharan (Nov 3, 2007)

http://uk.games-workshop.com/painting/basecoatsystem/1/

nice IMO 

you can use washes and foundation paints.


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## Riandro (Feb 28, 2008)

you can use it to basecoat models and wash them. thats about it :laugh:


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## Lord Sinkoran (Dec 23, 2006)

its a great bit of kit can't wait to get my hands on one


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## Ordog (Mar 28, 2007)

It´s expensiv crap in Germany 

Here you can get a simple Airbrush-system for about 14€....while the "Bolter" from GW costs 25€.

With the cheap set i get an second mixingpod, a lid (So you can store the coulor in it without refil it to the original Pod) 

Extra glases for the cheap Airgun cost about 1€/piece with Lid. Those glases don´t fit to the GW-Bolter.

I tried the Bolter (or Flammer) inmy local shop, and it gave me an cramp in my Hand too uke:


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## TrentLanthier (Apr 28, 2008)

Here is the youtube of it:


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## bobss (May 18, 2008)

thanks, and yeah it looks bloody useful, especially when spraying stuff you cant be bothered to paint...


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## aardvark (Feb 19, 2008)

*GW spray gun*

I echo the sentiments of our German friend above. Apart from the "bolter" shape the GW device is basically a clone of the long-established (>30 yrs) Badger 350 design.

The genuine Badger will set you back £40 - £60 according to where you shop and which kit you get. HOWEVER ....... Clarke Air Products do their own version for about £10. You can certainly get these from Machine Mart: don't know about other sources. EVEN BETTER ..... Clarke do a double-action internal-mix brush for about £30. That's more than good enough for most of us for fine work, shading, camo, etc.

The problem with the GW/B350 design is that it is external-mix: the paint is literally sucked through the nozzle by vacuum of the passing propellant and thrown at the target. Paint particles are therefore large and a smooth finish can be problematic, especially with some acrylics. GW paints need to be well thinned with Tamiya thinners or Isopropyl Alcohol: water is a no-no. It's easy to lay on too much paint with an external-mix and you really have to stop spraying in order to change spray width: makes them poor for detail work.

An internal-mix brush atomises the paint more finely inside the device and projects a proper aerosol stream. A double-action brush has a single control for both airflow and line width, meaning you can vary while you spray. In the airbrush world, these are the mutt's nuts.


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## bobss (May 18, 2008)

thanks the video was a massive help :biggrin:

however considering the price of this thing i may look for an alternative in a hobby shop as these things tend to be cheaper outside of gw stores.

also if i wanted to do some.... say necrons brazen brass. would i put that ( alongside water ) into the little ' pot ' or do i have to start with a foundation colour?


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## bloodthrister (Mar 29, 2008)

I'd say: foundation/washes only! Because you have to thin the paint down and an ordinary paint would just flush away, since its thinned too much. 

Im looking for a cheaper version of this too. So if someone knows a site or something pls PM/post it


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## bobss (May 18, 2008)

thanks for the advice bloodthirster, although i want to be definite as im planning to use the spray gun ALOT in my soon to be cron army...

anyway if using normal paint would you not thin it , or thin it slightly?


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## Anphicar (Dec 31, 2006)

Its another useful tool, simply put, but there are cheaper--and nicer--variants by other companies, of course.


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## humakt (Jan 2, 2008)

One word of warning about airbrushes in general. Metalic paints can cause problems. Depending on the paint manufatorer, will depend on how well they work.

The problem is that to get the refelctive effect, there are flakes within the paint. These can get into the nozzle of the brush. If they are not cleaned out fully they can contaminate the next paint, making it also appear slightly reflective. Water does ot always get rid of these, and I would say use a seperate brush for metalics or make sure you clean the brush with a solvent cleaner specifically desgined for airbsrushes. The second method does not always dissolve the flakes either.

The flakees can clog up internal mix brushes as well. havnt seen the nozzle size of the spray gun, but as its similar to the badger previously mentioned it should be ok, as thats how I use my badger (excellent for metal scenary).


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## The Son of Horus (Dec 30, 2006)

The GW spraygun is, like the vast majority of their modelling products, pretty much crap. It's a bad airbrush. You can't hook it up to an air compressor, so you HAVE to buy their cans of propellant, which makes the thing expensive as sin to run as airbrushes go, and you can't really even use it like an airbrush... it's just a way to make your own spray paint for modelling purposes, really. You can't do any detail work with it. I guess that's okay if all you want it for is to spray vehicles a base color other than black or white, but I'd suggest you go to the hardware store and get colored spray paint at that point... Krylon spray paint, in general, works fine on models. I use it on commission work where I need a basecoat other than black or white and have to crank a large amount of stuff out. It's like two bucks a can, too.

If you're going to invest in an airbrush, get a proper artist's airbrush that has attachable nozzles for precision work or general basecoating, and uses an air compressor. It's a bit (or, in some cases, a lot) more expensive, sure, but it requires a lot less maintainence and has a lot more utility.


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## oni (Jun 4, 2008)

but it's a hand flamer!!1!!11!one!111!

just kidding, yeah it looks pretty lame right down to the GW air in a can you have to buy for it, i mean what happens when they stop selling the air cans? 

does anyone plan on buying this thing???


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## bobss (May 18, 2008)

i was planning to buy it but £23 is pretty steep, also as im not sure about metallic paints i might give it a miss or buy a cheaper or more reliable variant...

and the air in a can thing is pretty crap, especially when i costs £5 and common who cares about it looking like a flamer?

would normal citadel metallic paints work fine when sprayed ?


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## humakt (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, here is the badger is use, and I have never had a problem with it. I have used air propellant, but these are industry standard ones, and have switched to a compressor since I got my badger 200. Looking to get a dual action brush next to see what I can do with it.

But no I wont be getting a GW flamathing


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## bobss (May 18, 2008)

thanks, that looks ALOT better and cheaper...


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## bl0203 (Nov 10, 2007)

The problem with propellant is you have to buy two cans at a time. By time your finished painting your first can is cold and doesn't provide the proper pressure to to clean the air brush. So you need a stand by can to finish up. So your talking twenty dollars a pop right there which adds up quick.

Additionally you can't regulate the air pressure for different techniques like shading and so forth. An air compressor and a decent air brush is a good investment if your serious about the hobby. Plus that silly rubber hose used to feed the propellent can rip or freeze and crack. 

Get a decent badger air brush and compressor if you're really serious about using it and don't put those foundation paint threw it. It will be clogged up in a few passes of your model, and if it dries in there you can kiss your brush good bye. Try using the Tamiya paints and thinning them with rubbing alcohol gives a really nice finish. Good lick...


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## humakt (Jan 2, 2008)

Anybody got any ideas for a quite compressor? My Revell compressor is on its way out and is now very noisy.


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