# How to get smooth Green Stuff



## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

Hey all

I'm having some trouble getting my green stuffed mini's ready for painting. Basically the green stuffed parts arn't smooth and its obvious that they have been green stuffed. I'm sure you all know what I mean.

Any tips?


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## Riandro (Feb 28, 2008)

put some water on your fingers and just smooth it out if its still maluable, if not get soem fine sandpaper or ad a thin layer of GS over it and smooth it then 

hope that helps! 

-Riandro


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## Ryan_M (Feb 5, 2008)

A guy who sculpts for Reaper did a few GS clincs at GW and he said mix a little bit of FIMO into the GS mix and it makes easier to smooth


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## hellric (Dec 26, 2006)

Nivea cream is great for smoothing, give it a try !


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## morfangdakka (Dec 31, 2006)

I use to have the same problem. I found that mixing in vaseline or other petrolum based product with the yellow and blue to make green stuff makes it smoother. A little water in the area where you are going to put the green stuff seems to help me get the GS in the spot easier and smoother. Last a fine grit sand paper does wonders for smoothing out the bumps.


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## Engelus (Jul 26, 2007)

what is FIMO?


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## Trigger (Mar 12, 2008)

Its like a modelling putty that sets when you bake it in an oven. I presume it makes the greenstuff more mallable as it takes so long to set at room temperature.


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## Ryan_M (Feb 5, 2008)

yeah it just modelling clay you have to bake to make it hard, its like sculpy.


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## Engelus (Jul 26, 2007)

interesting, I assume that the FIMO will eventually set at room temperature adding supersculpy to greenstuff sounds like a good way to ruin greenstuff to me.


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## Ryan_M (Feb 5, 2008)

no the green stuff dries like normal it just makes it smoother for some reason. you add just a little bit to the green stuff by the way


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## Killswitch (Apr 9, 2008)

When working with Green Stuff or other Kneadatite substances, remember these tips:
1) Always keep your instruments well lubricated with Vasaline, or water if there is none around. Another Petroleum-based product will work as well. Valve Oil, Slide Grease, or other musical applications work fine. (I use Slide Grease or 'Joint Grease' as it may be called)
2) Use gloves. Not only with this help prevent health risks, it also eliminates fingerprints while you work! Just hop on over to Walgreens (or some other store like it) and grab the Powder-free latex [or the non-latex type if need be] gloves.
3) Be patient.
4) Use some more yellow than blue. It increases work time.

These should really help your greenstuffing out! I also find that Milliput works best for large, less detailed sections than green stuff, such as sculpting armor, flat plates, etc. While green stuff works better for detail. But, you can still use GS for flatter surfaces. Or even Milliput for detail, just due to Milliput's consistancy (for lack of a better word here...maybe, maleability? Even though it's the wrong application ) it tends to be a little mushier (softer) and less potent to detail work.

Hope I helped.

-J


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## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

Cheers for everybodies responses. Lots of solutions in there. I'm trying to source some milliput now and am cursing that I didn't pick up any vasseline when I was at the Supermarket today.


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## Someguy (Nov 19, 2007)

One technique I've found successful is to use a round tool to roll the GS, like a really small scale version of a rolling pin for pastry. This can work better than sliding something over the surface, and you get a really nice shiny surface on the GS. 

It can be difficult to get a smoothe surface on detailed parts in other ways, because you are pulling the GS around while smoothing it. Rolling doesn't do this.

I don't have a special rolling tool, I just use the round parts on the GW sculpting tool.


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