# Kerotk, the Servants of the Old Ones



## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Since the 2012 Painting Challenge is scheduled to begin in a few days, I thought I'd create the PLOG that I'll use for the Challenge (and afterward). This will be my painting log for all things Lizardman like.

I have to go home this weekend and do an inventory of what I have and what I need.

From memory I think I have:

1 20 model unit of Temple Guard (2 months)
1 20 model unit of Saurus Warriors(2 months)
a bunch of Skinks (2 months) [Update: 48 models- At LEAST two months.]
Two Salamander Teams (1 or 2 month)
ONe Razorback Team (1 month)
A Stegodon (1 month)
Three Terradons (OOOOOLLLLLLDDDDD Models! 1 month)
SWARM BASES (3) (1 month)
and an odd assortment of special characters, etc. (1 month)

That totals 12 months already in the "waiting to be painted" pile.

I have a Slann ordered and, when it comes in, Midge913 wants to paint it and enter it into a Painting Competition.

More later as I get organized.

Like the 2011 Painting Challenge, I intend to post pictures in my Army Showcase of the models as they are at the beginning of the Challenge and gradually replace them with the painted models as the Challenge progresses.

I did this with my Dark Elf Army and now my Showcase is full of painted models. It gave me a visual "checklist" of things to do and things that were done. (check it out at the link below)

.... now all I have to do is learn how to play with them....


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

I am watching you, Apidude.


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Me too:security:


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## Daemon Prince Paintbox (Feb 21, 2011)

Look forward to seeing the Stegadon and Slann.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> I am watching you, Apidude.





Midge913 said:


> Me too:security:


I will follow you guys as well. Thanks for signing up.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*Kerotk's Army is now Showcased.....*

Well, I've now updated my Lizardman Army Showcase to include some of the models I have ready to paint for the 2012 Painting Challenge Follow the link below to get to the Showcase.

I've decided to start the month of March with the 3rd and 4th rank of a 20 model Saurus unit.

*Saurus Unit 1 with Spears* (Click on the pic to enlarge).
 

This will be a good starting place. The back ranks of a 20 model unit will let me transition from the Red / Grey / Black / Purple of my Dark Elves to the blues of the Lizardmen.

I decided that I am not going to vary the GW color scheme that much. After a bit of searching I found these pictures of Poison Arrow Frogs ..... I think that I will use the bright Blue, Yellow, and Black as the basic guideline for the Army.



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## Carna (Mar 13, 2008)

They will look bad ass once painted in that scheme!


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Carna said:


> They will look bad ass once painted in that scheme!


I couldn't agree more. These are going to look nice.


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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

Thats a great idea using reference pics for colour scheme ideas. I'll be following again mate - looking forward to seeing your army progress.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*And they are off!!!.......*

Ok, the starting flag has dropped on the 2012 Army Painting Challenge. Here is my first entry in the Challenge....

...the third and fourth rank of a 20 model Saurus Warrior unit. I have until March 31 to wrap them up. 

*Kerotk's Anvil - Saurus Warriors, Unit 1, Ranks 3 and 4* (Clik on pic for a larger version)


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Ohhh wow, those frogs look gorgeous, I wonder why I never thought of that. Durrr! Want to paint my Lizardmen and send them back? LMAO! Just teasing mate, I am sure these are going to look super.

Good luck brotha!

Regards,
DoE


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*WIP Kerotk's Lizardmen*

March's Challenge is to paint the 3rd and 4th ranks of my first Saurus Unit armed with Spears.
The challenge with this first unit is to settle on the painting scheme.

As mentioned earlier I will be staying with the basic blue theme for the Lizardguys, but am considering painting all Skinks in the bright yellow and black scheme of the Poison Arrow Frog reference pics. Right now, I don't paint yellow very well so this will force me to learn how to paint it. I figure 48 to 60 Skink models will teach me how to paint yellow if anything will..... 

In the fluff of the Lizardmen codex it states that as the Individuals age their armour gets harder and fades, lightening in tone. That being the case I started a base coat of my Saurus with the following mix:

5:3:2 mix of Turquoise (VGC#72024):Magic Blue(VGC#72021)ead White(VGC#720001)

This makes a brilliant light blue to use as a base color (see pics below). To lighten it I will add more Dead White for the Scar Veterans/Old Bloods.

I originally applied it in a very thin and watered down coat over a white primer base as I wanted it to dry in a splotchy pattern, given that these are organic individuals without a lot of armour. However, it did not cover very well and I ended up repainting it with another coat of paint. I do have one model that I am using as a test model in the pic.

I am trying to decide on either a darker blue or a medium grey for the scales on each model. I will probably paint up a test model or two in both colors and see which I like best.... or.... randomize different shades of blue and grey. Hmmmmmm....... perhaps the spikes should be painted as Bone....

The Spear shafts are bamboo. I will go back and paint a dark angels Green set of rings on each to illustrate the bamboo sections. The spear tip will be of stone, grey with a wash of Badab Black, and all metal will be gold.

Anyway, pics (Ok, I know they don't look like much with sloppy basecoats, but this is how I keep myself on track. I try to post each week. That keeps me focused on making some progress each week. Comments are welcome.)


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Looking good so far!


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## KjellThorngaard (Oct 4, 2010)

Man, are you really going to mix repeated batches of 5:2:1 colors?  They are a great star. keep posting progress.

I do ahve one question, though. Is that the move tray you are going with? I wondered why you choose gravel for a bunch of jungle dwelling critters. Wouldn't be my first choice, just wondering what led you to that.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Keep them coming.


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## Carna (Mar 13, 2008)

Looking really good so far! I am eagerly awaiting progress! Will the Saurus of the entire unit be the same colour or will the Champion be lighter?


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

KjellThorngaard said:


> Man, are you really going to mix repeated batches of 5:2:1 colors?  They are a great star. keep posting progress.
> 
> I do ahve one question, though. Is that the move tray you are going with? I wondered why you choose gravel for a bunch of jungle dwelling critters. Wouldn't be my first choice, just wondering what led you to that.





Carna said:


> Looking really good so far! I am eagerly awaiting progress! Will the Saurus of the entire unit be the same colour or will the Champion be lighter?


Great questions gents.
Kjell:
1. Nope. Now that I've decided on the mix I will make up a batch and put it in an empty pot.... although slight differences in the mix for organic models would add realism.
2. The movement tray happened to be one at hand when I ranked them up for the picture. If I do use gravel it will be a smaller grit than on this tray and static grass will be added...
Carna:
1. The color of the champion will be lighter by adding a few more drops of Dead White to the overall mix.

Thanks for checking in and I'll keep you posted......

BTW does anyone have tips for painting yellow? I am thinking about my Skinks and more and more I want to have yellow/orange Skinks running around with the blue Sauri....


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## Carna (Mar 13, 2008)

Iyanden Darksun? is your friend I think. As for the lighter colour, you know how it says it denotes age? Isn't every unit 'spawned' at the same time?


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Carna said:


> Iyanden Darksun? is your friend I think. As for the lighter colour, you know how it says it denotes age? Isn't every unit 'spawned' at the same time?


No. I believe that it says that every _member_ of a unit is spawned at the same time. Different units are spawned as needed and tend to come out slightly different than other units as the needs of the Lizardmen change.

That being said, the Champions of my units are the survivors from earlier spawnings who are battle tested and have developed the experience (as well as the tougher hide) to be a cut above the rest of the unit and so are made leaders of units of later spawnings. Given that, they would be lighter, more scarred, and otherwise be distinct from the rest of the Sauri in the unit.

(in reality, I intend to incorporate Saurus Old Bloods/Scar Veterans as Champions where I can)


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*Test Models---Lizarddude Sauri*

OK, team. I have several Lizarddudes Saurus test models I'd like to lift up for review and comment.

On the far left, the first test model uses dark blue for the scales with a wash of Thraka Green, while the spikes and head flange are medium Grey washed with thinned Asureman Blue.

The middle model uses a medium grey for the scales with a wash of Asureman Blue and uses Khemri Brown for the spikes and head flange. Eventually the Khemri base coat will be layered up to Bone White.

The final test model, on the right, uses dark reds for the scales, similar to one of the GW schemes in the Lizardmen Codex, then is washed with thinned Leviathan Purple and it also uses the Khemri/Bone White scheme for the Spikes/Head flange.
 
 

I'd like some input on the scheme that seemes to be the the best. Note: These are TEST models. I made no attempt on these models to clean up mold lines and details with these models. I just wanted to get a feel for different combinations.

Hmmmmm..... 
I COULD randomly use all three schemes....
...they are similar enough to tie together but the differences could indicate different spawnings....
...and since I ultimately intend on having a minimum of three Saurus 20+ model units tromping around on the table, snarling at the monkey boys .....


Thoughts???? 

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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

Hmmm . . .

Well, at first glance Api, the grey spines just aren't working for me. I'm not sure if its just the wrong colour, or if its the fact that they just dont stand out enough. They seem to lose some of their "spikeyness" for me.

However, I do like the scales on the same model (test 1). Natural, and just dark enough to contrast in a believeable fashion, with the skin tones. Test 2 however, is looking a bit "washed out" for the very opposite reason - not enough definition between the two shades, though the spines are far better.

Test 3 has to be my favorite. A nice contrast, similar in effect to your frog source pics, that works well with the Khemri spines. An inspired choice of wash colour also, bringing the red and blue of the different skin areas together with a purple wash.

If I was to suggest anything, it would be:

*Test 1: * Use Khemri on the spines, thats about all thats needed in my opinion.

*Test 2:* Keep the spines as is, use the same scale colour and wash as test 1, but add the occasional red scale, or group of scales, as used in test 3, using the purple wash on the red scales only.

*Test 3:* Leave it as it is - its all good. 

Then you could happily paint three seperate units in different, but linked themes, giving a cohesive feel to the entire army. :grin:

Hope that helps mate. :victory:


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

I prefer scheme three: the other two look too bland with blue on blue.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

The red scales makes the model POP much more Api, at least in my opinion.

VOTE# 3

Whats the deal with the green spears?

Regards,
DoE


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Disciple_of_Ezekiel said:


> The red scales makes the model POP much more Api, at least in my opinion. VOTE# 3
> 
> Whats the deal with the green spears?
> 
> ...


That pretty much makes the feedback 100% in favor of the red scales. So be it.

The spear shaft poles are of bamboo. I will be using Dark Angels green to paint rings around the shaft to signify the bamboo sections. Although I am wondering if I should darken the green a bit......


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*March 2012 final models and Painting Journal*

Well, March is over! Month 1 is behind us. Oooooo RAHHHH!!!

There, now I feel better......

Anyway, here are the BEFORE shots for March's challenge (as always each image links to a larger, more detail image):

*Saurus, Unit 1, Squad 1, Ranks 3 and 4 - Before*

 

and here are the AFTER shots......
*Saurus, Unit 1, Squad 2, Ranks 3 and 4 - Completed*

 
 

Now.... 

.... on to April with the remainder of the unit, Ranks 1 and 2 to include command models.


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I've updated my Army showcase to include this first unit now I'm beginning to think about Aprils unit, the 1st and 2nd rank of the Saurus unit to include the Command models.

Starting Pics for Aprils models:
 
 
*
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PAINTING JOURNAL:SAURUS MODELS, Unit 1, Squad 2
==========================================*

Everything was primed using white P3 Primer.

Skin: 
1. Basecoat: 5:3:2 mix of Turquoise (VGC#72024):Magic Blue(VGC#72021)ead White(VGC#720001)
2. Wash: Thinned Ashurman Blue (CIT) or Leviathan Purple (CIT)
3. MidTone touch ups: Ice Blue (CIT)

Scales:
1. Basecoat: Scarlett Red (VGC#72012)
2. Shade Wash: thinned Leviathan Purple (CIT)
3. Midtone: Scarlett Red touch up

Spikes/Bony Protrusions
1. Basecoat: Khemri Brown (CIT)
2. Midtone: 1:1 mix - Khemri Brown/Buff (VMC#70976) 
3. Highlight: Buff
4. Final wash: Ogryn Flesh (CIT)

Weapons (Clubs/Spear and javelin points)
My Visualization of the Cosmic All [for those E.E. "Doc" Smith fans] establishes that the lizards use stone points/mass in their weaponry. This stone is like dull granite but has been magiked into smoothness and sharpness while also toughening the stone so that it is not quite as brittle and resists shattering on impact.
1. Basecoat: Medium Grey (Reaper-Cloudy Grey )
2. Shade Wash: Devlan mud (CIT) or Badab Black (CIT)

Shields
1. Basecoat: Very thin wash of Dark Angles Green over white primer coat(CIT)
2. Wash: Very very thin wash of Red Black (VMC# 70859) mixed with "Magic Wash"
Although I did not have time to do so before I needed to post to March 2012 Challenge it is my intention to go back over some of the scales with Dark Angels Green to clean up the colors.
On the inside of the shield I used Charred Brown (VGC#72045).
Trim: Basecoated with Hammered Copper (VGC#72059) with midtone of Bright Bronze (VGC#72057). As these guys are core troopers I didn't figure that many of them would be running around with Gold and Silver so settled for Copper and Brass trim.

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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

I think that they shaped up rather nicely and I see that you made the push to get the shields done after all! 

My only bit of suggestion would be to add some individual edge highlights to the top edges of all the scales, just to make them pop a bit more, but other than that I really like them.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Midge913 said:


> I think that they shaped up rather nicely and I see that you made the push to get the shields done after all!
> 
> My only bit of suggestion would be to add some individual edge highlights to the top edges of all the scales, just to make them pop a bit more, but other than that I really like them.


Yep. I agree. I did not disregard your suggestion but, due to time constraints, I decided that the models as pictured, although not TOTALLY finished like we discussed, would have to go onto the PLOG as ism because of the time factor. I will do the highlighting with these guys as I work and complete April's Challenge. Now that I have the scheme figured, I should be able to move through April a lot quicker and pay more attention to the detail that I missed in March. (I had Painter's Block for 2/3 of the month.)


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

I like the vibrant green scales on the shields. However some of the shields seem to have a dark almost red patch in the centre which looks out of place to me; I feel they would work better if they were greener like one on the the front corner.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> I like the vibrant green scales on the shields. However some of the shields seem to have a dark almost red patch in the centre which looks out of place to me; I feel they would work better if they were greener like one on the the front corner.


Thanks, Dave. I agree. That is part of the touch up that is still needed. Just ran out of time.....


...that and basing....



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## ThumperHS (Sep 24, 2011)

Great looking unit ...

The shields look awesome:so_happy:


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*Painting Yellow....*

While I contintue to paint on my second unit for the Painting Challenge I got to thinking about painting Yellow Skinks.

Everything I have read (and the few times Ive tried to paint it) tells me that yellow is hard to paint. My own experience is that it takes a lot of coats to make it look smooth. I put out a call for help and was told that Lyanden Darksun was where I should start. 

So I picked up a bottle and started working with it and the rest of my paints.... 

Now I need your help. I have posted the following pics. The right most model is primed white. The next model, moving left, is base coated with Lyanden Darkson. Model 3 and 4 moving from the right to left are painted differently and look slightly different. ( I hope the pic shows the difference.) The thumbnails below will take you to an 800x600 pic if you want to look closer.

Your job, should you decide to accept it, is to tell me which model, No. 3 or No. 4, looks better. Whichever one gets the most positive feedback will be the approach used.

What are the approaches? I don't think I want to bias any responses so I will post the difference after I have gotten the feedback. I will only say this....they are indeed completely different painting approaches but both models use the same paint, Sun Yellow (VGC#72006).

Here are the pics:


  
Have fun...

BTW, I really do appreciate any feedback you are willing to offer.

Thanks in advance.....


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## Carna (Mar 13, 2008)

#4 looks alot more vibrant while #3 seems to be more creamy if you know what I mean. If you're going for bright yellow = danger than I'd go with #4. I think #4 looks better but I also think, as it is a very subtle difference, both would look good mixed in with a unit. Maybe when we see the weapons, eyes, etc. all painted it would be easier to decide?


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## CLT40k (Jun 18, 2010)

I also like # 4... once washed up I think it will really pop. Overall though, I think it depends on how many you need to paint up... If #4 takes 2 hours a mini to basecoat, then it might not be worth it.....


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

I am with the others. #4 looks really vibrant, but I would say the same thing as CLT, if it takes a crap load of time to get the results on #4, it may be trying after a few dozen skinks.


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## shiftystylin (Mar 24, 2012)

The whole posion dart frog idea is genius! There colours look really wasp-ish and, even though its bright, #4 looks like a great colour to work from.










One thing though, looking closer at the picture you provided, the muscle group in the back legs has given the yellow a slightly darker hue. I'm not sure whether that is just an anomaly with the surrounding colours but I'm assuming the concentration of red muscle in that area gives an impression of a darker skin tone (like veins on a body builder). Why don't you combine #3 and #4, having #3 around the muscles in the creatures?
Edit: (might reduce your overall model painting time too!)

Looks good though, have subscribed


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Whilst I agree with the others that #4 is more vibrant, #3 looks more realistic to me. It also looks less likely to overpower other colours so would give you a greater breadth of options for eye colours and such.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*Skinks: Test Models, Phase II*

I am still painting my Saurus unit for the April '12 Army painting challenge but if you've followed along you know that I am also paying attention to and thinking about the next BIG challenge to painting a Lizardman Army..... hordes of Skinks. I wanted something simple but thorough to paint up large blocks and I wanted them to both be different from the Saurus Units yet tied together. What will tie the two groups together will be the weaponry will use identical colors and the shields will be done identically. These will provide spot colors that are similar and pull the blue/red of the Sauri together with the yellow/orange of the Skinks. (At least that is my story and I am sticking with it. I have no idea how that works with accepted Color Theory and the real artists out there may cringe but, hey, its my army.)

Thanks for the help all who reviewed my pics. Model # 4 won, hands down, with the only cautionary vote being from Dave who thought that the bright yellow may not have looked as realistic and may limit my choices on other parts of the model.

Well, to see what would happen to the basecoated models if I took them closer to being finished I worked on them a bit more. I washed them with Gryphonia Sepia, did the eyes and added some of the details. Please note that these test models are for creating the paint scheme and will be buried in the horde. I did not remove all the mold lines, for example... nor did I highlight the scales and the bases haven't been painted other than a general basecoat.

Here are the results (pics link to 800:600 larger image):
  
  

The approaches used to base coat were:
For Model No. 3 (the one with his spear held above his head) there was a base coat of Lyanden Darksun and then a coat of Sun Yellow was applied over it.

For Model No. 4 (the one with his spear held out to his front) I dipped the end of my brush in a drop of dish-washing liquid/washing up fluid and then into clean water and then mixed the water/soap on my brush with the paint. I then applied two thin coats of Sun Yellow directly over the white primer using this method.

Personally, I found that Test Model No. 4 was easier and faster to get a solid basecoat. Granted, after the washing and detailing the difference between the two is not very noticeable but I will probably use that approach with the skinks. Using that approach I can basecoat a bunch of models very quickly. Dip end of brush in soap - dip in water - mix with paint - apply.

Thoughts?



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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*Painting Shields....*

The Saurus Warriors, Kroxigars, and all non Skink characters will be painted using a blue basecoat (various shades and tints but Blue base). Skinks, on the other hand, are going to be basecoated in yellow, orange and black. See my reference pics at the start of this PLOG of the different colors of Poison Arrow Frogs.

The shields are going to be the common color item that ties the entire army together. That makes them important.

This short diversion from painting models is to discuss how the shields were painted. Note that I am writing this as much as a record for me to refer back to as to give you insights into how I accomplished a particular effect so that I might be able to duplicate it again in the future. I do not lift myself up as even a good painter, but this type of journal helps me clarify my thoughts and approaches to painting. If you find it useful, great. If you don't then don't waste your time and skip it.

NOTE:
CIT = Citadel Paints
VMC = Vallejo Model Color
VGC = Vallejo Game Color

The pic below shows the result of the process... Sorry for the blurry pics.... Holding the camera by hand makes it fuzzy.
 

Step 1: All primed in White Primer. 

Step 2: I mixed up a very thin wash of Dark Angels Green (CIT) using about 1:5 drops of paint:Magic Wash*. 

I brushed this on liberally all over the face of the shield. A lot of the Dark Angels Green pigment settled into the grooves between the scales but the white scales picked up enough color to make them a light green. However, in the center of some of the scales, some of the Dark Angels Green wash collected, leaving a dark green spot in the center of the scale. More later on this....

Step 3: This step was tricky to get the proportions right. My objective was to have the ****** between the armor scales a dark red rather than a dark green. But I did not want the scales themselves to become red. I wanted them to remain green. One problem.... my eyes and hands aren't up to the task of hand painting every groove of the shield especially for what might become 80+ shields. I needed a quick and easy way to accomplish the same effect.

To do this, I made an even thinner wash using Red Black (VMC# 70859) [about 1 drop of paint to 10 drops of water/flow reducer] then added one or two drops of PVC glue to the resultant wash. The PVC glue does the same thing that the Magic Wash does, gathering the pigment into the grooves, but does so in a more extreme way. 

I very carefully but liberally brushed this red wash onto the shield making sure that the red was worked into the cracks between the scales. The paint ran off the surface of the scales, concentrating into the grooves thanks to the PVC glue, and the excess pooled at the edge of the shield. If I had left the excess dry this would have created a dark red stain over the whole rim of the shield and the green would be covered. I did not want this. I wanted a green shield with red in the cracks only.

So, I used two brushes...one to apply the wash to the shield and then the second, dry brush, after the shield had set for about 30 seconds, to wick off the excess paint that gathered on the edge of the shield. What remained was a Light Green Shield that had red in the grooves between the scales. Some of the Dark Angels Green and the Red Wash did pool onto the center of some of the Scales so I used a couple of thin coats of Snot Green (CIT) to cover those stains and even out the color.

Step 4: Trim:
There are two types of trim on the shields, the outer and the inner.

The inside of the shield itself was painted with a thin coat of Charred Brown (VGC#72045). I normally apply two thin coats. With only one coat the white primer shines through and basically looks dirty white. The trim on the inside (the arm band bracing and handle) were painted using my standard Dark Metal Mix[10 drops of Natural Steel(VMC#70864) : 1 drop Black]. This mix, when thinned and applied, has nearly the same effect as painting on Chainmail and then washing it with Badab Black, but does not require two steps.

The outside trim was basecoated with Hammered Copper (VGC#72059) then washed with Bright Bronze (VGC#72057) and that is it. Core troops cannot afford or have the right to carry large amounts of gold.

The teeth and horns on the shields are painted using Khemri Brown (CIT) as a base coat, then Buff(VMC#70976) and then finally with Bonewhite (VGC#72034). A quick wash of the bone/teeth with either Ogryn Flesh (CIT) or Gryphonia Sepia(CIT) and the shields are done and ready to be mounted when the models are finished.

Anyway, that is the approach to painting Lizarddudes shields that I am using for the 2012 Army Painting Challenge. I ended up gathering up all the shields that needed painting, Saurus, Skink, Temple Guard and painting all the shields at the same time. The only difference I used was with the Temple Guard. As they are Elite and a part of the Inner Sanctum, I went ahead and took their trim up to gold by basically adding another level above Bright Bronze and then drybrushing the edges with Mithril Silver(CIT).


*"Magic Wash": a mix of clear acrylic floor polish (1 part) and distilled water(3 parts) Note: The magic wash does make the pigment collect and concentrate in low spots like magic, but, like the Winds of Magic, it comes with a price....it tends to add a glossy finish when it is used. If that is not what is desired, either use water and lose the concentration effect or go back over the gloss with a matte varnish to kill the shine.
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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

I think the end result is a bit more muted than what it looked like before the Sepia wash. I really did like it a bit more with the more vivid yellow. I would suggest checking out the new yellow glaze. I have been experimenting with them and have found that they do a great job tying layers together without the dulling effects of the washes.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*April is Finished! A full unit of Big Lizard Dudes....*

April is over..... Month 2 behind us, 10 more to go.

BEFORE shots for April's challenge (as always each image links to a larger, more detail image):

 

and here are the AFTER shots......
*Saurus, Unit 1, Squad 1, Ranks 1 and 2 with command - Completed*

  
  

Here is the entire unit, March and April.
  
  

There was nothing unusual about how these models were painted compared to March so there is no update to the painting log.

---

Now on to May and Month three. While I am tired of painting Saurus Warriors and am ready to move onto something different, the whole point of this competition for me is to give me the motivation to paint the CORE models that take forever to do. It is easy to motivate myself to paint the priests and special characters and unique models but not the CORE. So, i am going to continue until all the models I have currently assembled are painted only I am going to pick up the pace a bit and try to do the whole 20 model unit in one month. Here is the starting pic.....

 



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## KjellThorngaard (Oct 4, 2010)

Good luck with a whole block of troops! I painted 18 Empire state troops last month for the challenge. I was kinda worried I couldn't pull it off, but getting that many done at once was worth it. Just don't sacrifice quality fr quantity. Your models look ace and you don't want to paint to a lower standard to get them done.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*Real Life strikes again......<sigh>*

Well all. I flubbed it last month and had to use a RL ticket. My 20 model unit of Sauran Warriors did not make the "Done" list. So I am going to finish them this month. 

Here was the starting pic last month as well as the status today....

  


If I get them done early in the month I may try to do either a special character or a Chameleon this month as well BUT I intend to get that 20 model unit finished!


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Looking good so far Apidude. And I totally understand the R/L stuff. Looking forward to seeing your warriors finished.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*On to the little ones....Kerotk's Mighty Mites*

OK, From April to June I painted up my Saurus Horde, traditional blue/red scheme. No problems.... and I like the way they look. I think they will look good on the table, which is my overall painting goal...an average to above average table top painting job. I want my models to look real enough that it is easy to suspend belief and let me get onto the tabletop with them. I don't like playing with unpainted models...I feel somehow incomplete....

Here are pics:

  
 

... and in Horde Formation, Saurus Units 1 and 2: (Note: I have extra warriors that will be used to replace the 2nd set of banner carrier and musician.
 

So for the next phase of my 2012 Army Painting Challenge, it is time to tackle the horde (61 plus(?)) of Skink Models I want to be able to field. [OK, if you must know, one unit of 24 Skinks with Kroxigars AND one unit of 40 Skinks in Horde formation AND one unit of 20 Skinks with Blowpipes {I know, that is more than 61... so I've got to buy a few more.}]

If you look through my PLOG above you'll know the painting scheme I intend on using with this BUNCH of models over the next two or three months. (unless I get really motivated and get a massive production line thing going) 

Here is about 1/3 of the bunch, assembled, primed and ready to go. I'll be starting with them and assembling, priming, etc the rest while these are being painted.

For July, I'm going to do 15 or 20 of these guys (note the colored ones are my paint scheme test models and don't count for the Challenge.)


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Looking good Apidude!!!! Looking forward to the skinks.


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## jay. (Jun 26, 2012)

Nice saurus you got. The scheme for the skinks looks good too


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## Zero Effect (Feb 15, 2011)

Really liking the Saurus, they have come along great. Cant wait to see the Skinks, especially the number that you are quoting.

Going to follow this thread as I kinda have a soft spot for the Lizardmen forces.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Zero Effect said:


> Really liking the Saurus, they have come along great. Cant wait to see the Skinks, especially the number that you are quoting.
> 
> Going to follow this thread as I kinda have a soft spot for the Lizardmen forces.


Welcome aboard. Should be a fun ride. Thanks for the rep.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Good work continuing the colourful but angry vibe.

My only niggle is that the feathers on the icon-poles look flat compared to everything else; I feel a layer of wash would really make them pop.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> Good work continuing the colourful but angry vibe.
> 
> My only niggle is that the feathers on the icon-poles look flat compared to everything else; I feel a layer of wash would really make them pop.


Great idea, Dave. Thanks.


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## Meldon (Dec 21, 2010)

The lizards look great, I tried to make a lizardmen army myself a few years ago but I just could not stand painting all those scales, it´s really impressive to me that you have painted all those scales to that standard. The best part of them though is the shields, from what I can make out from the photos you have really nailed them


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