# Forge world dreadnought!



## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Golds finished gotta say i impressed myself but its a nightmare to get a picture of.


































A few different angles there.

Same as usual c&c please.


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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

Looking good so far mate.

If I was to suggest anything at the moment, I'd say that each of the fragmented areas needs a little smoother blending. Its probably only the camera thats showing it up as much, but some of the hihglight transitions are a bit jagged within each of the fragmented areas.

Looking forward to seeing it finished mate. Nice job so far.:victory:


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Yeah im soon to be bringing another blue into it that'll smooth that out then a further darker blue again.

Its my first ever free hand so i'm still learning tbh.


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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

In that case then mate, carry on the way you have been. Should look sweet when its done.


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

This is looking excellent so far. The gold looks well, and that marbled effect looks sweet. Can't wait to see it finished.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

wow for your first free hand it's really nice! are you following any kind of tutorial?


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Tbh im copying a far better painters work for now next one will be all my own.

I wont even be close to his standard but i loved his dread


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Definitely looking awesome stevey!!! Are you planning on continuing the cracked look up onto the top of the dread? Because as it looks right now the top is pretty flat in comparison.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

I've got another patern for the top only the part housing the crippled marine will be cracked.

Just need the courage to try it lol.


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## troybuckle (Nov 24, 2010)

with such a nice start this this is sure to be awesome upon completion!


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

From the front the bodys 75% done now.
The top is gonna be a nightmare!


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

I NEED FEED BACK FOR THIS BIT!!!









Does the cracking on top of the armour look ok cartoony?


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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

Looks good mate. Not bad at all. In fact, I'd go as far as to suggest expanding the cracks further from the edges. If you are going for a specific effect, go all the way. 

At the moment, it might look a little bare compared to the cracks on the front ( which are looking awesome, I notice you blended the hell out of them - nice ). 

But still looking great Stevey. Keep it going.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Cheers. I really wasnt sure about the big cracks on the top they are supposed to look real and not like a paint effect. I've still gotta do some free hand under the large cracks nothing too massive probably just a big ultra.

Btw the blending on the top took 5 mins first time ever it worked first time for me.


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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

stevey293 said:


> Btw the blending on the top took 5 mins first time ever it worked first time for me.


Sometimes it just works, other times it doesn't. I get like that - just tried some lighting effects on a model I'm doing at the moment. I haven't done lighting in years and thought I'd be rusty, but it just flew on and I'm really pleased with how it looks. 

I'm guessing you feel the same way, and you've every right to - its a damn fine paint job, and your not even finished!

It'll be nice to see how you do the Signwork on the cracked surface ( which really does look authentic btw ). I'll definitley be tuning back in.

Catch ye later.:victory:


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## troybuckle (Nov 24, 2010)

I think that it looks ace man good job.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

The overall oppinion including my own is it looks too fake and cartoony so its getting covered and most likely some from of greek pattern over it.


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

I think the problem is that you've made them too large. There's a big brown blob which sharply transitions to blue paintwork. More numberous, smaller chipping would work better. 

I'd suggest sponging a dark base scratch colour on, with a similar amount of paint for drybrushing, maybe a touch more, (blister packet sponge is good for this) and then highlighting and shading the resulting chips to get that 3d effect. You highlight the bottom of the chip and shade the top for the 3d effect. This way you'll have lots of small, asymmetrical scratches. 

The rest is looking great though, nice rich golds. I don't know if you've finished the head but the red looks somewhat faded and washed out.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Gave up on the chipping and flakey paint was only an experiment. It would look good on a lighter model i think but that blue was way too rich for it.

Thank you rems im actually planning on something similar to what you suggested near the end.

Here's what i replaced the cracks with. The whole upper torso will get this inc the weapon shoulders as per in the dread i shown earlier i just loved it to much.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

are you/were you using pens to do some of it or is it all with a brush??


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

all brush. TBH never thought of using pens or even a stencil.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

git. . . .

ok so that's not enough letters so I thought i'd explain that after 2-3 years of painting i am nowhere near that standard


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## shaantitus (Aug 3, 2009)

me too.
Nice work stevey. Good looking dread even when unfinished.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Hellados said:


> git. . . .
> 
> ok so that's not enough letters so I thought i'd explain that after 2-3 years of painting i am nowhere near that standard


sorry. TBH I'm nothing special far from it I just have a steady hand and I learn fast.

BTW i've only painted a year before that I was in the army and didnt have time but I was always interested in painting. 

here page one of my miniwargaming thread showing one of my first models all the way through to this dread nought. (btw litterally everything I've painted is in there there really isn't alot in a year maybe 25 models in total from first time I picked up a brush till now.)

http://www.miniwargaming.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=48939&start=0


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

The mosaic pieces are looking good, that's some nice blending. The white freehand needs to be tidied up though, it's spoiling the rest of it. Do you start from pure white or layer with dheneb stone or fortress grey? Either way it looks like it needs some lineing to get those edges crisp. 

Still good work and i can see where you're going with it. Keep up the good work! I love seeing painters progress in their skills. Your freehand ability is coming along nicely.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

good lord you are an incredibly good painter. . . . . what did you at/where did you look to learn the techniques?? all over the place or is there one specific source?


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Tbh i just followed other peoples wip threads esp if it said commision or gd on it.
I also asked the questions and experimented after all they can be stripped. Keep your paints thin its better to put 3 thin coats on than 1 thick one. (that bit made the biggest difference). 

Batter youtube. Hotlead and awesompaintjob helped alot there.

Desire and drive helps to. Me for example i want to throw a mini into ukgd next year (wont be close to good enough still but heyho)

Most importantly listen. I've gone way out my way to help a few people just for them to ignore it even after they ask for it. Feedback is good you should seek it where ever you can others see things in a different way to you more of a judges way.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

I've only had 5 mins spare the past few days used it tidying up the free hand and marking out the next bit. 

It looks far better now. 










Well i think so anyway.

After seeing the pic the U still needs a tiny touch up.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Damn Stevey looking mighty awesome!


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

djinn24 said:


> Damn Stevey looking mighty awesome!


I agree whole-heartedly with this. Fantastic looking piece man, and the white free-hand on the top is looking much better.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

I actually wish now i went with space wolf grey over pure white now. Did a little test patch elsewhere and the transition was much nicer.


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## TheReverend (Dec 2, 2007)

it looks great so far!! Love the armour and well done with the gold, that colour is SOOO annoying to paint!


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

ah so does the blue go on the white?


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Nope white onto blue then i blend the bit in the middle dark blue to space wolf grey.


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## DecrepitDragon (Aug 2, 2011)

When you first changed your mind about the cracked effect on the top plates I was a little dissapointed - I really liked the way it was going.

However, seeing the route your taking now, I think you made a good call. Theres more of a fluid scheme to the paint job now.

Looking great as usual mate.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Thank you. I didnt want to copy that much of the original but since the original painter winterdyne on dakkadakka has caught wind of this and approves and i really loved his one i had to. I'm going to go a slightly different route with the weathering though.

Not a huge been stupidly busy update but arms are in place and top freehanc is marked out. Just free hand shoulders and power pack to go .










Also on another note i've been told elsewhere i've picked a really unusual weapon set up i dont play or own a codex so can anyone elaborate on why i was told that? Its bugging me since there is a chance this might end up for sale after???


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## Cold86 (Sep 24, 2010)

your heavy flamer on the right is a short range template weapon for anti infantry. Your missile launcher on the left is a 48' range is long range anti armor primarily. Usually in 40k you want something specialized either in long range or close range.


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

Still it would be easy enough for someone to slice the flamer hood off and replace it with a lascannon muzzle. The barrel would be fine. 

The white's looking much better. Always, always though lay down another colour (space wolfs grey or fortress grey or dehneb stone depending on the type of white you want -cool, neutral and warm respectively) and layer from their instead of going straight to white. 

I usually don't like the brighter, more pastel blue Ultramarines but yours is looking really nice so keep it up. If i may i would suggest doing the Tyranid skull carapace in red or a bony colour. This way it would tie in to the spot colours of the other red or parchment coloured areas. Though something really different and standout-ish could also work, we'll have to see. 

Keep up the good work.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Thank you both.

Yeah i sussed out the grey before white the hard way. This whole models been a big learning curve tbh. 

As for the tyranid your not the first to say that the plan was that it stood out but after doing more of the model i agree it dosnt look right.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Aaaaaargh!!!! (insert sweary loud words!!!)


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## troybuckle (Nov 24, 2010)

That sucks, but its noting som crazy glue wont fix. Also, what are your plans for the base?


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

!!!!!! Oh no!!!!


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Had to areldite it in place superglue wouldn't hold it.

As for basing honestly no idea i dont think of that till the end. I dont even know if im keeping or selling possibly giving it out in a competition like im about to do wiyh the nurgle dread i did yonks ago.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

First to spot my propper dumbass mistake wins.... Some rep. 









Its the end result of me multitasking. Steve dont talk and paint.


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## newt_e (Jan 1, 2008)

Is it to do with the darker patches on each fragmented section? 
On the right hand side of the model they're to the left. 
On the left hand side of the model, the top ones are on the left, and the bottom ones are on the right.
TBH, it's the only thing I noticed, but only because you'd mentioned there was a mistake.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Correct. That was fast. 

It was a propper face palm moment when i noticed that. At least its only on thin and i've not spent the time tidying it up yet.


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## newt_e (Jan 1, 2008)

It was only fast down to timing. 
Like I said, if you hadn't mentioned that there was a mistake I would never have spotted. 
And your painting skills are far better than mine.
Thanks for the rep.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Only because i've got the time to kill bud. 15 hour night shifts.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

<- broken shoulder so I can do nothing except paint with one hand. . . . .

I never spotted the mistake mate, I'm still looking for inspiration for some BA dreads I'm going to get from FW because of seeing your Dread, do you have a link for the one that was your inspiration??


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

http://forums.relicnews.com/showthread.php?251637-Commission-GOLDEN-DAEMON-Ultramarines-Venerable-Dreadnoughts-amp-Sicarius/page2


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Unexpected bit of time off. Think i used it well marked out more freehand. 

Was going to freehand on some large text bottled it though will trace or stencil that bit on.


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## troybuckle (Nov 24, 2010)

This thing is in the home stretch now, what are your plans for the base?


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

I've honestly got no idea tbh. Thought about a swamp but its far too clean for that. Will most likely end up on a urban base.


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

I reckon a snow base would really suit. It would make the blue, red and gold really pop while tying in with the white. It would also suit thematically with the dead tyrannid as a nod to the Battle of Macragge. 

Though it might be troublesome if you're planning on selling it. Snow bases are not the most common. 

Looking great.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Most end up given away tbh. 

Never tried a snow one sooo hard to get a realistic look to it might be worth a shot though


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## Rems (Jun 20, 2011)

Here's a good guide for realistic snow. Dead easy to do aswell. 

http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1323


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Cheers rems. 

Shoulder finished bar some touching up. Wanted to do more here but tbh i've lost intrest.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Here's the picture of the shoulder.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Looks great man. I like the burnmarks on the weapon. The pattern is coming along nicely too.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Thanks. I was going to attempt the blue effect you see on exhausts but bottled it maybe next time. 

Started the base can you tell what effect im going for?


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Marble. That's a good start for it. The highlighting needed for it is quite tricky, good luck smoothing that out. I'm pretty sure you can pull it off though, considering the smooth blending around the cracks.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

It is indeed. Never tried it before and so far its all guess work. Faster than i thought it would be.

As for blending im going to try layering glazes for this.

Not keen on the blue veins but i still have to go over them with a few greys. 
Also still need to shade it.


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## Midge913 (Oct 21, 2010)

Looking good man! All the work you have put into this guy is really paying off!


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## Digg40k (Sep 7, 2008)

Some superb work Stevey. Don't put yourself down so much simply because you feel you are "copying" the work of someone who you regard to be a much better painter than you. Many people have stood on the shoulders of giants and proved themselves worthy. You've done a ForgeWorld model justice with a paint job and in my books that's no easy feat and one to be proud of.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Ive managed to get in touch with the original painter he seems happy with it. He's gave some great advice. User name is winterdyne on dakka. 

I want to attempt this again at some point in the future there is a few things i havn't done i'd really of liked to. As there is so much free hand i've not bothered with highlighting at all for example. There is next to no weathering only pigments on the boltgun metal parts. 

Cheers for the kind words though. Have i shown the pic i've been working from yet?


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## Alexious (Apr 13, 2009)

Exceptional work for this figure so far and I hope your base is done just as well. Something to be quite proud of. Well done.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

Base is nearly done now. 

The Us need a touch up its ment to look like embroidery (i'll put my hands up and admit paints where way too thick for that bit)

Im really happy with how the purity seals turned out its a new recipe really easy and did both in litterally 5 mins.


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## stevey293 (Aug 16, 2011)

All done apart from the left shoulder and gluing to the base and adding snow. 

Been busy tonight but tbh its only with little tweeks so doubt you'll see them.


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