# Finecast FAQ



## Djinn24

No this is not an official GW publications silly but here is a good place to ask or look for answers in relation to the new Finecast line from Gamesworkshop!

Q. What is Finecast?
A. It is a urethane-based resin that has replaced many of the pewter models on the GW line. 

Q. Can I use plastic glue on Finecast?
A. No. You must use superglue. Even though it is a hybrid resin that is urethane-based, plastic glues do not melt them together, though normal superglue is reported to make a very good bond.

Q. Since it is resin do I have to wash it?
A. Not all of the model have mold release on them, or enough to matter. Rule of thumb is if there is a shiny spot, wash it. (answer changed 30 May 11) 

Q. What about the imperfections?
A. Like typical resin you are still going to have some mess ups. There will be small air bubbles at times and mold lines that will need to be removed. Unlike the old pewter models, you will not need a file set to remove them properly. * if you have a set of models that are extremely bad, call GW customer service for your country and let them know, it has been reported that there are some really bad models out there.*

Q. Can they be heated to straighten them out?
A. Yes, hot water or a hair dryer can be used to straighten them out (a word of warning, the coolest temperature that you can bend is the best. Some people advise against hair dryers, some folks, like myself have used boiling water to best stuff back, in general start with warm and then move to hot tap water, only use stuff like hair dryers when you absolutely can not get the model to water).

Q. Are the new models a similar weight to plastic models models of a similar size?
A. The new models are actually lighter.

Q. Do you need to prime them?
A. This is a matter of opinion but all models need to be primer-ed.

Q. How hot does the water have to be to bend? Tap hot, coffee hot, or boiling hot?
A. Normally Tap hot will work.)

Q. How should you cut them for conversions? Hobby knife, clippers or files? I don't want to use clippers just to find out it cracks the model or something.
A. Reports have it that these are much like plastics that GW produces. That being said you should be able to use clippers (I do on FW stuff) but test it on a piece of sprue that in in ever blister now!

Q. will the paint stick to it as good as on the GW plastic models?
A. I recommend that you primer but the paint should stick pretty well on it's own if the model does not have mold release ect on it.

Q. Are the new model toxic?
A. No but keep in mind that dust resulted from filing it an irritant and to take proper precautions when dealing with them.

Q. Will these models melt if left in the sun?
A. Yes these models have had reports of softening when left exposed to direct sunlight. This has been an issue with models that have thin, weight bearing parts.

Q. Can you file Finecast?
A. Yes but be very gentle as the material wears away much faster then plastics. I recommend very fine sandpaper or micro diamond files.

Q. Can you strip Finecast models?
A. Unknown at this time but you can strip FW models with Simple Green. Test on a sprue before hand if you need to know (and report your findings here!).

Add questions and/or answers below and I will get them added here. Once this has most of the questions I will submit it as a tutorial so I will do my best to include names and such for answers.


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## greenee22

will the paint stick to it as good as on the GW plastic models?
(I tend to drop my models every now and then, and the paint gets scratches when you drop a metal model)


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## lav25gunner

1. Do you need to prime them?
2. How hot does the water have to be to bend? Tap hot, coffee hot, or boiling hot?
3. How should you cut them for conversions? Hobby knife, clippers or files? I don't want to use clippers just to find out it cracks the model or something.


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## Hammer49

Are the new models a similar weight to plastic models models of a similar size?


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## Djinn24

Anyone have answers!


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## The Son of Horus

A few things--

First, in answer to the questions-

-The finecast models are actually lighter than regular GW plastics. It might not be a bad idea to glue a penny to the bottom of each base just to stop a stiff breeze from blowing it away. (Not literally, but they're noticably lighter than regular plastic.)
-You do need to prime the models just like any other miniature.
-A knife or file is sufficient for cutting the resin-- clippers won't break the model though.
-Use warm tap water and go slow. Do NOT use a hairdryer, and certainly don't use a heat gun.

Some of the finecast range DOES have mold release on it. Even though the resin formula is different, the fundamental basics of casting resin are the same, and there is mold release on the Finecast models. You may be able to get away with not washing a given piece, but you probably ought to run your finecast stuff under cool water for a minute or two just to be sure. 

Like Forge World models (and any other resin product) be sure to wear a mask while cleaning and assembling the model. Resin dust is almost invisible and is extremely irritating to your throat and lungs-- you WILL breathe it in without a mask, as it's extremely light.

Finally, if you need to strip paint from a finecast model, use Simple Green (I don't know how Dettol for you UK-ers out there will work.) Anything else will likely warp or melt the resin.


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## Jormungandr

You shouldnt really be using clippers for conversion work, anyway - a knife/razersaw is best.

(Son of Horus seems to have answerd everything, +rep to him! And the OP  )


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## Maidel

The Son of Horus said:


> Like Forge World models (and any other resin product) be sure to wear a mask while cleaning and assembling the model. Resin dust is almost invisible and is extremely irritating to your throat and lungs-- you WILL breathe it in without a mask, as it's extremely light.


I dont have any first hand experiance of this, but I was under the impression this was not necessary. At least, not any more necessary than when working with plastic or peuter models.


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## Cothbarton

The Son of Horus said:


> Some of the finecast range DOES have mold release on it. .... You may be able to get away with not washing a given piece.....


The amount of release spray on a model will actually come down to how much spray the person taking the minis out of the mold has used previously. In general, if a mini looks slightly shiny, then it probably does need washing. Although I dont know if the shine will still be evident by the time you have the mini in hand. It's hit or miss, just like the plastic sprues which GW suggests you wash.



The Son of Horus said:


> Like Forge World models (and any other resin product) be sure to wear a mask while cleaning and assembling the model. Resin dust is almost invisible and is extremely irritating to your throat and lungs-- you WILL breathe it in without a mask, as it's extremely light.


I'm not sure how much dust we're really going to get. They shouldnt need filing too much. And so far as I know, none of the production staff have worn masks while making the Finecast minis.


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## bitsandkits

Jormungandr said:


> You shouldnt really be using clippers for conversion work, anyway - a knife/razersaw is best.


Ehh? clippers are invaluable as a conversion tool


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## Maidel

bitsandkits said:


> Ehh? clippers are invaluable as a conversion tool


What I 'think' he means is that when you use clippers the piece that you are 'clipping' will become deformed at the base due to the shape of the clipping head which is wedge shaped. So you get a clean cut on one side and a slightly deformed cut on the other.

Which is fine if you dont want the bit you are clipping off, but not fine if you want both parts fully intact.


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## chromedog

DUST of any kind (plastic, wood, resin, metal, glass, unobtanium, whatever) is bad to breathe in, so don't do it. Cured PU resin dust is no more carcinogenic than talc - but you shouldn't be breathing talc dust either. ALL dusts are irritants, just some are a lot more dangerous than others (Asbestos does not create dust, it creates particulate fibres, which are a different case). If you are doing so much work to it that you are creating dust, then wear a dust mask.

Hot tap water is usually adequate to reshape it. It doesn't have to be boiling - but 65*C water can still scald you (the temperature that comes out of my hot tap - we don't have a lower temp cut-off because we don't have children (can't)). Shouldn't take longer than 15-20 seconds to soften it enough to reshape.

It may or may not have a mould release on it. If an area is particularly shiny, then it's safer to assume it DOES than not, and give it a gentle wash. Warm water with a gentle dishliquid and an old toothbrush works well. Even plastics benefit from this, as the steel dies for them also use a release agent to speed the ejection of the sprues from the trap.

[ Forgeworld ALSO use a Polyurethane resin, btw (it's a different formulation than Finecast, though, with different properties). They also use a petrochemical release agent which is harder to remove than babygak from a blanket. ]

Clippers are one tool in a toolbox. They ARE a tool for conversions, alongside the hobby knives, files, razor saws and dremel (or other powered hobby tool). They are generally only used when both parts of a given piece are not required for a conversion. 
That said, they should not usually be used around resin, due to the more brittle nature of the product.


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## Maidel

chromedog said:


> That said, they should not usually be used around resin, due to the more brittle nature of the product.


Thats a case for generic resin - the 'rumours' being that finecast isnt like this. Do you have first hand experiance of it?

Just interrested because I am on a temporary ban from buying GW stuff, not a price rise related one, more a 'I have a baby now and have no money'.


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## Jormungandr

bitsandkits said:


> Ehh? clippers are invaluable as a conversion tool


Only so far as to cut off hands, etc that will not be used - and even then you have to worry about them damaging the model. Razer Saw cuts nicely without the need for any (very little, at most) cleaning after the fact.

Clippers, by their design, will damage whatever is being clipped.


EDIT: Just read page two of this thread, noticed that my point/opinion had already been raised/voiced.


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## Djinn24

Main post updated


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## ownzu

how should we strip them?? i usually use dettol would that work?


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## Jormungandr

same way as you strip plastics, I would think, so if dettol works on plastics without melting them, go ahead.


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## Svartmetall

Jormungandr said:


> same way as you strip plastics, I would think, so if dettol works on plastics without melting them, go ahead.


Test on a painted piece of sprue first, that way you don't risk damaging a model.


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## Masked Jackal

Some interesting concerns here. But, there's another question raised by other threads that I'm interested in a more intelligent investigation. The reports mostly seem to be accidental, and not testing, and there are other factors involved.

Does this resin melt at high temperatures?


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## Maidel

Masked Jackal said:


> Does this resin melt at high temperatures?


Does forgeworld resin melt at high temperatures?

Does lead melt at high temperatures?

Does plastic melt at high temperatures?


Yes to all of them - so, my assumption would be yes to resin - especially when they tell you to use warm water to bend it...


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## ownzu

il do a test on a painted bit of sprue later on tonight,will take step by step pics,as for heat i saw this in news and rumours http://thefrontlinegamer.blogspot.com/2011/06/dont-leave-finecast-in-sun.html


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## Masked Jackal

Maidel said:


> Does forgeworld resin melt at high temperatures?
> 
> Does lead melt at high temperatures?
> 
> Does plastic melt at high temperatures?
> 
> 
> Yes to all of them - so, my assumption would be yes to resin - especially when they tell you to use warm water to bend it...


People melt at high temperatures too, but we should probably know what effect there is at 80 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit there is.


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## Djinn24

Reports have it that they become soft at about 80-100 which is not normally an issue unless it is a thin weight bearing piece. Most of the models should have no issue but a rare few should not have been made in resin.

You should be able to strip this resin in Simple Green/Detol like FW resins.


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## Masked Jackal

Yeah, it looks like that won't be a problem for most models. Something to look out for though.


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## Maidel

Masked Jackal said:


> People melt at high temperatures too, but we should probably know what effect there is at 80 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit there is.


What's that in 'proper' numbers? 30-35C?

My (unrsearched answer) bugger all, unless you drill away 50% of the piece of resin and shove a highly conductive piece of metal in the model.


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## Masked Jackal

Maidel said:


> What's that in 'proper' numbers? 30-35C?


26 to 43. And I wouldn't get started on 'proper', either system is fine, it's just what you've been taught. I haven't ever used Celsius because I'm in America, and the superiority isn't as clear as it is with the metric system, which America should switch to.


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## Maidel

Masked Jackal said:


> 26 to 43. And I wouldn't get started on 'proper', either system is fine, it's just what you've been taught. I haven't ever used Celsius because I'm in America, and the superiority isn't as clear as it is with the metric system, which America should switch to.


Two things, firstly it was clearly a joke, and secondly it IS metric (0-100 based on freezing and boiling points of water)... Not to mention that Celsius is the same scale as kelvin which is the scale of measurement used for science.

But, as I said it was clearly a joke, so next time don't jump a 'foot' down my throat and just give me an 'inch' because I didn't ask for a 'mile'


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## Djinn24

Want to have a pissin match about what is proper take it to PMs. This is for questions about Finecast not what temperature measurement is better.


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## Maidel

Has everyone had a humour-ectomy recently?

I give up.


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## reavsie

*Mould lines & crumbling*

I've been putting together the Eldar Farseer and Warlocks Finecast kit, and have encountered a couple of problems:

Some mould lines are almost inverted, in that they are a slim crevice rather than a raised edge. If you try to scrape them out you just end up digging it deeper.

Also, some things appear to have crumbled away, such as ends of feet, and most noticeably, the fins on sword hilts. I've tried to tidy up ragged edges by filing gently, but the resin sands so quickly that you remove too much. For the moment, I have just dabbed a spot of super glue on anything crumbling and hope that will seal it, stopping it from getting any worse.

Has anyone else had the same problems, or any ideas on how to deal with them?

On the plus side, GW did replace the first set I bought when I showed them the crumbled feet, but the second set still has some problems.

Regards,
Reavsie


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## Djinn24

Added to the FAQ.


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## Maidel

reavsie said:


> Has anyone else had the same problems, or any ideas on how to deal with them?


Not had that problem myself - but I think my answer would be fairly standard - if its defective, take it back.


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## reasnd

I bought the Hive tyrant and had mixed results using super glue. Flat surfaces seem to glue OK, but I couldn't get the resin arms and legs to stick? I even tried switching to a gel type super glue. In the end I used epoxy, at least I didn't have to pin.


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## baron_sathonyx

okay so i have had a few problems with a few different sets, my autarch with wings, he has a few big holes in his Armour and the wings also had alot of holes, i have sent it back several times and have been given replacements with similar problems. farseer and warlock box my first box one of my warlocks sword was one big solid block resin attached to the sprue and the farseer had huge holes, and my current farseer has holes as well, as someone who is not good with any form of epoxy resin what can i do about the holes?


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## baron_sathonyx

oh and i also have urien rakarth i would sudjest staying away from him and lillith as from my personal experiences they are too thin and break very very easy when being cut off of the sprue


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## Svartmetall

baron_sathonyx said:


> Okay so I have had a few problems with a few different sets, my Autarch with wings, he has a few big holes in his armour and the wings also had alot of holes, I have sent it back several times and have been given replacements with similar problems. Farseer and Warlock box, my first box, one of my Warlocks' swords was one big solid block of resin attached to the sprue and the Farseer had huge holes, and my current Farseer has holes as well, as someone who is not good with any form of epoxy resin what can I do about the holes?


If the replacements also have problems, particularly if it's the same problem over and over, I would strongly suggest sending it in to GW Customer Services with a letter explaining the situation - that several replacements of the same model have the same problem, and that the ball has obviously been dropped somewhat in terms of quality control on that particular model. The only way the quality-control issues will get sorted is if we're made aware of every issue; I know it's sometimes less than ideal right now, but believe me the issue really is being addressed down on the casting-room floor. New measures were put in place two weeks ago to seriously improve the monitoring of what does and doesn't get passed, and that's certainly making a difference - this will probably take a week or three to work its way out to what you see on the shelves, though, stock-movement time being what it is. 

Ironically I'm about to move into the mould room where I'll be learning how to cut the moulds for the models themselves, so I won't be working directly with the models as they come out of the moulds any more - but keep the feedback coming, I've been watching all the Finecast discussions with great interest and have been passing on the gist of things to my immediate bosses.


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## Marneus Calgar

Also, just a tip more than anything.

When you buy a Finecast model, check every single model your local store has in stock, I was in my local store and I was seeing what the best cast of that model. Some times they have huge amounts of flash on, but checking them will help you get a better model.


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## baron_sathonyx

cheers svart ill do that first thing tomorrow 

to marneus - i am actually band from my local GW(due to reasons i would gladly go in to but this is not the place for such discussion) so i mainly order everything off the online store =/


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## Djinn24

If you are having issues with a part sticking, rough up the surface a bit or make sure that you wash that piece. nooks and cranny are where mold release love to hide, and roughing up the surface adds to the bond of the super glue.

I am beginning to notice a trend with the fine cast, if they have a lot of flash they tend to have less air-bubbles (not personal observation, just going off of what people have said.


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## jaysen

I can't seem to find any Finecast Space Marines other than the veteran squads. Have they all sold out or been recalled?


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## MrHuk

There's a few models I really like the look of but I'm too scared to buy any of them because of the issues, sucks :/


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## SynthNine

I heard they degrade very fast when painted. How long is one pieces lifespan?


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## bitsandkits

SynthNine said:


> I heard they degrade very fast when painted. How long is one pieces lifespan?


degrade? they dont degrade at all, its resin last pretty much forever


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## SynthNine

bitsandkits said:


> degrade? they dont degrade at all, its resin last pretty much forever


yeah apparently there is a chemicall reaction though when you paint them


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## Dave T Hobbit

SynthNine said:


> yeah apparently there is a chemicall reaction though when you paint them


Really? Noone I know has noticed this.

Do you have more details?


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## arizonajirt

I have stripped a finecast model using simple green. be careful on how long you let it set. I let mine set for a week and then checked it The paint came off just fine, and there was no damage to the model. a friend of mine stripped one of his finecast models and left it in simple green for 2 weeks and the model became very soft and actually broke at the thin parts (banner on top of TDA Librarian)


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## Engelus

I'd like to add some info!

I have found that thin details like staves and swords are flexible but fragile. in the past with metal models I would ocasionally be forced to drill a long hole up through the center of such long slender parts and insert a length of steel wire to strengthen it, with the finecast models it is far easier, as the soft material drills very easily.


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## Ribber

djinn24 said:


> Q. What about the imperfections?
> A. Like typical resin you are still going to have some mess ups. There will be small air bubbles at times and mold lines that will need to be removed. Unlike the old pewter models, you will not need a file set to remove them properly. * if you have a set of models that are extremely bad, call GW customer service for your country and let them know, it has been reported that there are some really bad models out there.*


100% of my finecast models (47 25mm base models, half a dozen 40mm base models) have bubbles and parts missing. Any that were replaced were done so with parts that have bubbles and parts missing, in a couple cases the replacements were in worse shape. Flash so thick in some cases, I had to carve it out with a razor knife. I have no faith in finecast.

12,000 points worth of plastic and not a single flaw.


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## Igniskhin

has anyone suffered a broken resin model yet?


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## Mortarman178

Igniskhin said:


> has anyone suffered a broken resin model yet?


i did the other day with my Trazyn the Infinite i got hm home opened him and his body broke in half. lucky my local game stop was still open and i replaced him. i guess they have been getting a lot of finecast returned with them breaking. *shrug* they seam fine to me for the most part. the paint sticks to them a bit better then the metal. but thats jsut my though.


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## ehafh

great FAQ!

i have been seeing these finecast models and was wondering what the differences were.
nice to see all the questions i could have thought of in one spot.


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## Rik_Biel

I had an Archon with bubbles and actually had one of the two heads missing !


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## lazencantm

djinn24 said:


> Q. Will these models melt if left in the sun?
> A. Yes these models have had reports of softening when left exposed to direct sunlight. This has been an issue with models that have thin, weight bearing parts.


Lol, from the war gamers I know; this should not be a problem.



djinn24 said:


> Q. Can you strip Finecast models?
> A. Unknown at this time but you can strip FW models with Simple Green. Test on a sprue before hand if you need to know (and report your findings here!).


Yes you can. I stripped the finecast librarian with the same method as any other model.


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## Achaylus72

Well last year we had a day of high temps 45.6 degrees celcius and my mate lost all of his Finecast models, when he came home all he had to show were melted pools of Finecast.

Finecast as i have found out from others wasn't meant for the hot Aussie summer.

also 50,000 points of plastic and metal and no problems.


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