# Ork Terrain



## Macrocalculator (Dec 4, 2008)

As the new codex is just around the corner it seemed the perfect time to build a fresh set of ork terrain. Here is the end result.


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## MidnightSun (Feb 10, 2009)

Really nice, any chance of a tutorial?


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

This is really well done mate. Definitely needs a tutorial. and +Rep


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## Roganzar (Feb 16, 2014)

Awesome terrain.
Would love a tutorial. I've begun using my old sprues to make kind of Orky looking barricades, but a tutorial for these would be great help.


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## Macrocalculator (Dec 4, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. It would have been nice to make a tutorial but (as opposed to previous build posts) for this project I decided not tot waste too much time making in progress pictures and long winding posts to Heresy. The benefit on the one hand was a build and painting time of under two weeks. The downside is that I cannot give you any pictures. 

If you still want to get started. A long winded text without pictures :shok: 
Some basics:
- The bases are all 4mm MDF. MDF is cheap, doesn't (usually) warp and is easy worked with (assuming electric saw and sanding machine (for beveling the edges). The size of my bases is actually a bit smaller then usual as I have a new scheme to store my terrain in plastic crates which means the bases should be of a size to be effectively stored. The wall sections are on 10x2,5 cm (4"x1") sections, the platformed walls are on 15x7 cm (6"x2.4" (or something?)) sections. The big gate and the crane are on 15x24 cm sections (6"x9.4").
- I refrained from glueing on any cocktails sticks or other pointy stuff as I'm worried that this might lead to accidents in combination with True LOS. 
- Very little Dakka was used on the buildings. Every Ork knows that leaving Dakka behind on a building will just lead to seeing grots scampering about with your Dakka. 

Walls
- The walls are made from a small wooden stick bought at the DIY store and cut into 6 cm high sections (plan was to make it just high enough to hide a Rhino. Most of my walls are at 6 cm, slightly lower then the 7.5 cm GW uses to lower the general size of the buildings (and make gaming easier). The wooden sticks were glued to the base with PVA (wood-) glue and left to dry for a day.
- On the dry sections I used litte planks made from a bit of leftover balsa-wood and made of popsicle sticks (snapped). I glued this to the standing sections to create a frame and left it to dry.
- As the final steps on the walls I used leftover bits of plasticard, cardboard, corrugated cardboard and bits of a disused screen door to fill out the wall (using Fallout New Vegas as my inspiration). 

Buildings
- The core of the buildings is made by sticking 3mm foamboard together. This is a quick and dirty job as all of it will be covered by other stuff. It is just there to be a strong foundation to glue stuff on.
- The buildings are covered in cardboard and corrugated cardboard soaked in PVA. Cardboard is very easy to work with and soaking it in PVA does actually give it a strength comparable to plasticard. 
- The rivets were a stroke of luck. I saw a box of quinoa for around 1 euro ($1.35). Using PVA and a brush I glued the quinoa on the cardboard and let it dry. 
- For the guard rails I used popsicle sticks with the ends removed (and broking into smalle pieces and in half), corrugated cardboard, plasticard and bits of regular cardboard. The trick with ork buildings is to not completely go overboard but keep a sense that it can all (barely) remain standing. The ladders are made from toothpicks.
- After all the cardboard and wood was added to the buildings I glued on a few bits from my bits-box (ork glyphs, a few dreadnought pieces and some ork spikey bits). 
- All basing is done with Ikea sand and bits of cardboard.

The crane
- The two large metal beams on the crane and the crane itself is made from plasticard. This has the advantage that it can be glued together with plastic glue which melts and (supposedly) give a stronger bond than PVA. Speaking of PVA, the cranes top rests on the top of a PVA bottle. I used two 750 gram bottles of PVA on this set (i.e. a lot )
- The chain is made from chain soaked in watered down PVA. Do remember to do this, you don't want a piece of scenery that can get itself tied into knots during transport. 
- The crane grabber itself is made from 1mm cardboard, slightly thinner cardboard and a bent paperclip to attach it properly (in an orky way) to the chain.


Rubble piles
- The rubble piles by the crane and by the gate building started by glueing large rocks to the base. As these were dry I covered them with more PVA and pushed bits from the bits-box in it. This works nicely but had the disadvantage that I started running out of (useful) bits rather quickly. 
- Luckily inspiration struck at that moment. Terrain build are usually rather messier then building models. To counter this I always have a small container to use as a mini garbage can for cutoff bits of popsicle stick, small bits of wood, leftover (small) pieces of cardboard and the like. I instantly changed its use from garbage can to bits-box for the garbage pile. Glued on the lot and made sure it stuck out here and there. In combination with just a few regular bits this gives you a way to make huge rubble piles (my next project). 

Paint job
- I undercoated the terrain black (spraycan).
- I used my airbrush to give all of it a coat of burned umber (Vallejo Model Air)
- I then airbrused patches of Hull Red, Scarlet, Mud Brown (all Vallejo Model Air) on all the buildings and walls. 
- Next step was using some GW colors and a brush to give a few plates character (Enchanted Blue, Averland Sunset, Dark Angel Green). 
- The squared plates were painted using Chaos Black and Ceramite White.
- I used Vallejo Sepia and Black washes sparingly on the bottom of beams and in deeper parts of the wall. Taking care to use a brush to gently wipe the wash into the surrounding (otherwise you get these ugle dried up flow stains).
- For the next step I used a sponge (old inlay from an old Citadel model blister) to sponge on Ryza Rust (but as far as I'm concerned any orange would do). 
- After the rust came a sponged on layer of Boltgun metal. 
- Next up was a bit more sponging of Ryza rust.
- Next up was some more boltgun metal.
- Repeat a few more times...
- The trick with sponging on rust and metal is that it is tempting to do to little (which makes the effect fail IMHO), but it is very easy to do to much (making the model look terrible). So I go slow and repeat until I am satisfied. 
- The last step was sponging on a Khemri Brown (yes I have not replaced all my old colors with the new ones as of yet). A lot of it at the bottom and less towards the tops. This helps tone down the metal and rust colors and unifies the look of all the buildings a bit more.
- The floors were covered in big splotches of Sepia wash and smaller splotches of Black wash. I carefully blended the washes together and covered the floors. After drying all the floors were given a light bolgun and Ryza sponging and a very heavy Khemri Brows sponging. 
- After everything was very, very well dry I used some ash grey weathering powder (Forge World) to make the walls a bit dustier. 
- The bases are all painted German Grey (Vallejo Model Air), drybrushed with Death World Forest, Ogryn Camo and Dawnstone (consecutively).
- The rubble piles were painted with the buildings, sponged heavily with Ryza Rust and covered with strategically placed globs of Sepia wash (always taking care to prevent ugly smear marks). 

The ork glyphs were painted with Ghostly Grey (Vallejo model), highlighted with White (Vallejo Model Air) and made bit more dirty with a glaze made from Khemri Brown. 

And that's basically it. If you have any use of this tutorial please let me know (and show us some pictures). Happy building!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Fantastisch!

Looks really great. Bet you'll have hours of fun on that one


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Macro, this looks awesome as usual!


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