# A beginners blog, doing the basics badly.



## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

First of all I'd just like to give you a little bit of background, basically I'm a complete novice when it comes to painting miniatures as well as art in general. I will be posting my progress from my first model and beyond, hopefully making noticeable progress in between. I only have a basic point and shoot camera but I will do my best to get passable photos.

First up, just a simple Dark Angels Marine, I didn't use any of the "special" bits on him, nor the better weapons as I didn't want to waste them seeing as he's my first model ever. I'm pretty happy with how I put him together, although the right arm doesn't look right to me, maybe it's my eyes but I'm pretty sure I should have put the shoulder pad on at a better angle. And don't ask how long it actually took me just to put the bloody thing together, it's too embarrassing! Any tips would be great, especially when it comes to mold lines and especially the little bits of plastic left over from the sprue, I got most of it off (I think) but it's not perfect.










I will be updating this blog for every stage of every model, I would have added photos of the model primed but God is mocking me and made it ran the second I finished putting the model together.

More to come in the future, any tips, tricks, advice no matter how small is welcome.


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## The Sullen One (Nov 9, 2008)

I wouldn't worry about how long it took you to put the model together, as the plastic glue GW sells nowadays is inferior to their previous product (for some reason they made the glue thinner), consequently parts can take longer to stick together than they should, or else fall off days later.

Anyway, your Dark Angel looks pretty good to me mate, PM me when he's painted up.


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## Zognutz (Jun 15, 2011)

it's a good start [god knows everyone starts somewhere].

its really well put together for a first. It's a good natural and dynamic pose. Dont worry about the right armpit being a little open like that. As you put more together you'll see it's nothing out of the ordinary. As you get more experienced, a little greenstuff can clean up joins like that no problem but remember...

a lick of paint can hide a multitude of sins 

If I can give you hint about those mold lines. I find the best way to get rid of them is to scrape gently down them with the edge of a craft knife/scalpel. Getting rid of them can make the difference between a good model and a great model.

Have fun mate


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Thanks for all the kind words and advice.

You was right Zognutz, all the little bits I wasn't happy with you don't notice now that it's been primed.

I did my best with the mold lines, I know I missed some bits but it's certainly better than before, overall I'm happy for a first attempt.

A little progress, I primed the little fella and had a well deserved pizza so I'm feeling pretty good right about now.










How does the coat look to you guys? I must say I was happy with it as it seemed thin enough and didn't clog up any detail. I was surprised how easy the priming was, literally 3 seconds on either side and it was done.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Just thought I'd add a photo of the unboxing:


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

My top tip would be to base before undercoat.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

torealis said:


> My top tip would be to base before undercoat.


I don't actually have anything to base with yet, hopefully I can pick something up in the future. What would you suggest as a cheap way to smarten up my bases? Would some simple sand/grass/mud be OK for someone at my level?


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

MrHuk said:


> I did my best with the mold lines, I know I missed some bits but it's certainly better than before, overall I'm happy for a first attempt.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get that moldline on the hood and just cover over the area that you cleaned with some chaos black. You will be glad you did it before you start painting it.



torealis said:


> My top tip would be to base before undercoat.


I would have to agree with Torealis. 

You have the same avatar as me! :shok:

Looking forward to seeing some paint on him. Good luck!


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Oops, totally missed that one, I did the right side but not the left or the top of the head.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

So, my build order is:

Clip pieces from frame.

Remove all mould lines.

Decide on pose.

Glue legs to base, then torso to legs, then arms to body, then head last.

PVA glue sand/small stones on base.

Undercoat.

Paint base (scorched brown, khemri brown drybrush)

Paint model.

Use plastic glue to glue small tufts of static grass.

Varnish if you want.

EDIT: I know that I'm certainly not standard among GW people on the net, but I use all GW products. I love their basing stuff.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

Gale force nine and woodland scenics have some really nice basing things. I personally don't base before I undercoat, but everyone works differently. Looking good so far. Do listen to DoE and try to file or cut the mold line on the top of the hood. Good luck and i'll be looking forward to seeing what you produce.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

MrHuk said:


> What would you suggest as a cheap way to smarten up my bases? Would some simple sand/grass/mud be OK for someone at my level?


For rank-and-file a simple base is fine.

I find a decent mud effect quite tricky as it looks flat without boot prints and spatter.

A simple but effective base technique is:
(i) cover the top of the base in PVA and dip in sand
(ii) paint watered down PVA over the top to add strength
(iii) paint the whole base in mid or dark brown
(iv) dry-brush (wipe most of the paint form your brush before drawing lightly across the surface) with light brown or bone colour

If you want to make it slightly posher, you can add patches of static grass or flock, and paint the rim of the base a different colour.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

So I tried to fix the hood, I think I got the whole mold line, let me know. Also, when I go over it with black how thin should the paint be?










Ha, I now see I didn't do the top of the gun either. First day of the hobby and I already loathe mold lines.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

MrHuk said:


> ...when I go over it with black how thin should the paint be?
> 
> First day of the hobby and I already loathe mold lines.


Generally paint is easiest to use if it is watered down until it looks like milk. Even if it does not get perfect cover on the first coat, two thin coats hide less detail than a single thick one.

Welcome to the mould line haters club.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> Generally paint is easiest to use if it is watered down until it looks like milk. Even if it does not get perfect cover on the first coat, two thin coats hide less detail than a single thick one.
> 
> Welcome to the mould line haters club.



OK thanks. BTW, did I do OK with the hood?


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

As long as you didn't gouge a 'mold crater' into it the hood probably is fine  Put a layer of black on it then look at it from different angles if you can't tell if its all gone. I have heard of people using coffee grounds for basing material here, I personally got a bag of sand and crushed seashells at the local craft store for my bases.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

scscofield said:


> As long as you didn't gouge a 'mold crater' into it the hood probably is fine  Put a layer of black on it then look at it from different angles if you can't tell if its all gone. I have heard of people using coffee grounds for basing material here, I personally got a bag of sand and crushed seashells at the local craft store for my bases.


Ha ha, there's no crater in the hood, there may be a little one in the backpack, but don't tell anyone! I also took the mold line off the top of the plasma gun so hopefully redoing it pays off in the end. I just hope I don't totally ruin the thing when I paint it tomorrow, the tiny head is scaring me.


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## Dakingofchaos (Sep 29, 2009)

Good start, great to see you've got the mouldline sorted, i too hate the buggars ¬¬ now, get some paint on it!


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

Yeah, with my commission work right now, I spent an extra like 3-4 hours getting rid of mold lines and misscasts...for one freaking model, given, it was from FW. Just don't let Djinn catch you with mold lines. Hahaha!~ He's a master at spotting them. 

Yes paint is easy to use at a milk like consistancy, that and you'll get a more even coverage overall.

From the picture, looks like you did fine with the hood. Good luck to you!~


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Dakingofchaos said:


> Good start, great to see you've got the mouldline sorted, i too hate the buggars ¬¬ now, get some paint on it!


I'll get the black fix up layer on tomorrow ASAP, then hopefully I can start around late afternoon with the base coats.


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## InkedDnA (Jul 8, 2011)

Lookin good so far. Mould line removal is all part of the hobby, its a love hate thing(mostly hate)  Can't wait to see some paint on him!


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

One other small little detail, get a little drill bit and drill a small hole into the bolter. It makes the bolter look much better and adds depth to it as well.

As for the Hood, looks like it good to go.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

So I just finished basecoating my first model and it went OK I'd say, parts of the legs need to be redone (how are you supposed to do that little bit of cloak without touching the legs) and I missed a few tiny bits here and there but that should all be fixable. I'm just wondering, how long do I need to wait before going in with more color?



















As always, helpful advice and comments are welcome.

PS: I just got my plastic clippers, I only ordered them yesterday night so wasn't expecting them so fast.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

An excellent start. Crisp, well brushed paint. Nice one.

You shouldn't have to wait more than 10 minutes between coats of paint, they should dry quickly enough. If you water them down, that time should drop.

Paint in batches, makes the whole thing easier. DA Green on 10 models, and the first will be ready for his next colour.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

torealis said:


> An excellent start. Crisp, well brushed paint. Nice one.
> 
> You shouldn't have to wait more than 10 minutes between coats of paint, they should dry quickly enough. If you water them down, that time should drop.
> 
> Paint in batches, makes the whole thing easier. DA Green on 10 models, and the first will be ready for his next colour.


Thank you. And I actually smell dinner cooking so I better not start painting until I've demolished that off, which will give the paint plenty of time to dry fully. And yeah, you're right about the batches but I only have 5 models total right now, I will probably do 2x2 to finish off the box. I have my eye on eBay for some cheapo models to practice on.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

do all 5 at once!

and base them!


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

I agree with torealis; very tidy for early in your painting career.



MrHuk said:


> ...how are you supposed to do that little bit of cloak without touching the legs....


Two possible methods:

(i) paint the model before you attach to the base so you can get between from below - this has the downside of making attaching sand harder as you need to leave flat patches to attach the the feet;

(ii) use a small brush with paint on the very tip to slowly fill the area.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Yeah, I was using the standard brush, I really should have swapped in the fine detail brush, I will do that next time.

As for basing, I don't have anything yet but would this be OK:

http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/gale-force-9/2332 - Is this the right type of glue?
http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/gale-force-9/2324 - Rocky grit


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

You want something finer than that for the majority of the base. GW's sand is excellent, a great mix.

For the glue, just go to B&Q and buy a tub of PVA.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

And that's me done for the day, the Sun has gone to sleep and my lamp isn't great so I can't really see any more. I found out my lamp can take 40w bulbs but it currently has a 28w bulb in it, doh!

I touched up all the green armor I had bodged earlier and I finished all the cloth, it has 2 highlights and a wash of Devlan Mud wash, which is amazing stuff, it really made a huge difference and made my guy look like he's seen a battle or two.










(Please excuse the darkness, as I said the Sun has gone down and my lamp needs a better bulb. You can see the cloth though and that's what I wanted to show you)

As always, comments and tips are more than welcome.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

I usually account for little tiny mistakes here and there and go back to fix it. before I put any washes or highlights or any different colors over it. 
Looking great for your first forray into painting. Keep it up!

For basing, http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/gale-force-9/2322 might work better for you than the rough grit, I've seen the fine grit used (this exact one) and it looks and works great.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I ended up ordering:

http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/gale-force-9/2322 - Fine Grit
http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/gale-force-9/2318 - Dark Green Static Grass

I went for Gale Force 9 as they're half the cost of the Citadel stuff and I have spent well over £100 already and I still need a drill and some files, the expense truly never ends.

Tomorrow I'm panting my house, so I won't get to continue on him till Sunday, by the time he's finished my basing stuff will have arrived and I can carry on with the rest.

Oh and, I saw a tutorial where the guy was basically at my stage on the cloak then he dry brushed Bonewhite over it and it looked really good, do you think I should give that a go just to make it pop a little more? Here's how it turned out for him:









(not my photo, it's from a robe tutorial)


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

The problem with that picture and dry brushing is that you have to becareful how you apply it. In that picture it looks "Grainy" which doesnt look very good in my opinion.

Also, use a badaab black wash on your metal pieces, it will dull down the brightness of the metal, makes it more subtle.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Disciple_of_Ezekiel said:


> The problem with that picture and dry brushing is that you have to becareful how you apply it. In that picture it looks "Grainy" which doesnt look very good in my opinion.
> 
> Also, use a badaab black wash on your metal pieces, it will dull down the brightness of the metal, makes it more subtle.


If you was me what would you do to make the cloth pop? Or would you just leave it as it is? And yeah, I plan to wash the metal, but I haven't even done the details yet, the only thing that's actually done or close to being done is the cloth. I REALLY wish I didn't have to decorate tomorrow, but I promised I'd get it done last week and I didn't so yeah, I'll be painting walls and ceilings instead of bolters and backpacks.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

I'd drybrush and then wash.


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## Alexious (Apr 13, 2009)

MrHuk said:


> If you was me what would you do to make the cloth pop? Or would you just leave it as it is? And yeah, I plan to wash the metal, but I haven't even done the details yet, the only thing that's actually done or close to being done is the cloth. I REALLY wish I didn't have to decorate tomorrow, but I promised I'd get it done last week and I didn't so yeah, I'll be painting walls and ceilings instead of bolters and backpacks.


It looks like to me you have used devlan mud or badab black as the cloth wash. I would have used sepia as it is more brown. However to make this pop now that you have done the robes with the wash it is time to go back and do the light affected areas with more light paint. (white, bleached bone etc). There are a few tutorials around and their is a good one on here in the appropiate section on cloth... I find that worked ok for me to begin with. However cloth especially white or bone cloth... one of the more challenging areas of painting even for an experienced painter.

Good luck and your progress is great so far. However remember that your examining your work very close up..... when we all started out it was more about gaming than painting usually. I love your so dedicated and wanting advice but don't make it a chore on every figure you do...  Enjoy it and the 40k verse and the gaming aspect too or otherwise it is easy to get frustrated.

Lexi.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

torealis said:


> I'd drybrush and then wash.


Which wash would you use, it already has Devlan Mud on it.



Alexious said:


> It looks like to me you have used devlan mud or badab black as the cloth wash. I would have used sepia as it is more brown. However to make this pop now that you have done the robes with the wash it is time to go back and do the light affected areas with more light paint. (white, bleached bone etc). There are a few tutorials around and their is a good one on here in the appropiate section on cloth... I find that worked ok for me to begin with. However cloth especially white or bone cloth... one of the more challenging areas of painting even for an experienced painter.
> 
> Good luck and your progress is great so far. However remember that your examining your work very close up..... when we all started out it was more about gaming than painting usually. I love your so dedicated and wanting advice but don't make it a chore on every figure you do...  Enjoy it and the 40k verse and the gaming aspect too or otherwise it is easy to get frustrated.
> 
> Lexi.


I've always been a bit of a perfectionist, if I see something that's not right it drives me mad until I fix it, it's a blessing and a curse. And I'll look for that tutorial another time, I really should be hitting the hay.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

I disagree with the drybrush as it will look "grainy" as it has already been said. I would go with picking out highlights and parts of the cloak that are "wrinkled" and put a really watered down white or bleached bone on top of it maybe a couple of times, and kind of blending in with the rest of the cloth. It really depends on how much lighter you want it. Then another light layer of wash on top of that.

I usually don't use sepia to wash a cloak since it make it kind of look a bit more towards parchment and bone, even if you were to use a different colored wash on top of that (my 2cents).

Hope this helps!~


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## mutronics (Oct 11, 2010)

Check out awesomepaintjob's tutorial on youtube for his dark angel marine. He washes his cloak heavily and then hangs the mini upside down till it dried. I thought it looked great w/o the highlighting he did afterwards. 
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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I actually saw his video, and when he started wet blending 3 colors together I knew that wasn't a tutorial aimed at me. I will check it again to see it before all the wet blending though.

I finished painting my house, the walls and ceilings are done at least but all the cleanup is left to do, I just popped on to check eBay and I managed to win 2 sets of 5 Ork Boyz without even being at the PC, they only cost me £6.30 total for 10.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I'm feeling a bit defeated and deflated right now, today didn't go as hoped and I'm not happy with my final result, I really don't like the light green I added, it would have looked better just dark green like the rest. The one thing I am happy with is the cloak, I added some bonewhite highlights and washed it with sepia.

Front:










Back:










There's a lot I notice in the photos that I don't when I'm painting, mainly due to my crappy bulb. The light green looks "sticky" and I think that's my lamp doing that, as it gets extremely hot. The model looked better before I started on it today so I'm feeling pretty down with myself. I know it's my first ever model but still, I really wanted it to look good.


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

Take your dark green you used for the main body and water it down a lot, then 'wash' the light green with it. It will take it down a shade or two and make it less stand out. Or if you have the citadel green wash, thakka green or something like that you could use it.

Edit: Are you thinning your paints at all? If you are going straight from the pot with them it could be the cause of your 'stickiness'.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Yeah I'm thinning, but only a little, it seems it's either too sticky or so thin it doesn't hold on the model properly. I really think it's more to do with the lamp cooking it, the bloody thing drys my paints out fast also. Tomorrow I should be picking up my CFL bulb and hopefully this won't be a problem in the future.


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

Are you using a wet pallet of any sort?
There is do it yourself version tutorials on the website or if you google. It helps keep the paint from drying out so fast.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

No I'm not, just using the basic Citadel palette.


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4776

I did that until I bought this:
http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=HXwsTvnsD4Kltwe8oKzXAg&ved=0CGsQ8wIwAQ

Reading a bunch of the articles in the painting tutorial sticky helped me out a lot. Still a newb at all this but I am happy with the results I am currently getting.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I read as much as possible but I guess you need to learn by doing, and that means making mistakes. I'm very hard on myself and I probably shouldn't be as it's my first go. I think getting a better bulb for my lamp will make a huge difference, hopefully I can get a decent one tomorrow.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Dont be so hard on yourself, remember that everyone had to start out somewhere and it was never perfect when they did and if it was perfect, cuddos to them.

It just takes time and practice, sometimes more then others, but in the end, if you keep at it you will get there.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

Still looks really good. It happens to everybody at one point or another, but hope you still keep on painting! I hate pictures too...it shows every little freaking thing that you THOUGHT you got, but most of the time it will look good on the table.

I personally don't use a wet palette, though they do help. I use flow improver and that does help a lot if you don't have a wet palette. The bulb might not be helping as well as you've said.

As for the lighter green, wash it down with thraka or even just a really really really watered down dark green. A couple of thinner layers is always better than a thicker layer even if you think it's going nowhere for a little while...

All in all, it's a good model so don't be so hard on yourself!


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I did actually wash it down with Thraka Green after I took the photo which took a little bit of the brightness away, although the main problem with it is the "sticky" look to the paint on that bit, I'm not really sure what caused it as the whole model isn't like that.

And I will keep painting, I spent too much money to give up after 1 go! I think a better bulb will make a huge difference, ATM my bulb is only 28w so it's pretty useless and it's an old school bulb so it gets hot, really hot. Tomorrow I will try and get a daylight bulb, or if I can't find one a CFL 100w which will be cooler and much brighter. I should be getting my basing stuff on Tuesday, so that'll give me a day to put at least one more model together so I can base and prime on Tuesday.


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

I have a set of tac marines sitting in a bath of simple green, it will be the 4th time I paint them. Still haven't gotten my current set up to the point I am happy with but I have not screwed them up enough to get a bath of simple green either


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I enjoy the painting it's the putting together I hate, for some reason I struggle with the arms and arm pads, more often than not the arms just won't be flush or they're blocked by the pad or some other bit of detail. I ordered some Orks from eBay and they seem so much better, they come nearly fully made and you just pop on the arm and it actually fits unlike my bastard arms.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Really, I think building is the best part, at least until I have finished painting the mini. When I paint I get tired just thinking about how many different colors and layers, highlighting and all that jazz I will have to do and it sometimes puts me off from painting, LOL! Clip, clean, assemble seems so much easier and relaxing.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Just got home with my nice, new 18w CFL bulb and................ it broke in my hand, wonderful. That's my yearly dose of Mercury. It was so brittle it reminded me of sugar glass, I twisted it a couple of times and one of the sides just exploded. Plus the bloody thing was too long anyway by about 1 inch.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Back again. I was given a refund and I got the "Tornado" bulb from Philips, it's their newest and smallest CFL bulb, sadly they only had a 60w equivalent in stock but it's still 2x as bright as my old one and it gets warm, not insanely hot so that's a plus. I will get a 100w when I can but this will do for now.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Time for a small update, I manged to get another two models made and while that might not seem like a lot of work it is for me as I'm still super slow at putting these things together, plus I had some seriously pronounced mold lines.

I'm still waiting on my basing stuff so I can't prime them yet.

2nd:



















3rd:




















I learnt the hard way it's best to remove the mold lines before putting the model together, there's a few areas I couldn't get to on the second model, but I did it properly on the third model. There's probably the odd bit still left but all the major ones should be gone. I'm most happy with the 3rd model, he looks pretty cool IMO, he would have looked cooler with this head wings (or whatever they're called) but I ruined them, doh!


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

I want your camera


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

I must say I'm surprised, I love building! It's my favourite part!

I must also say that I don't like the pose of the first guy. My tip is to do the pose yourself, and see how stupid you feel. He looks like a Sushi chef.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

scscofield said:


> I want your camera


It's only a basic point and shoot which cost me £49.99, luckily you can change stuff like white balance, exposure, macro etc which makes the photos come out decent.



torealis said:


> I must say I'm surprised, I love building! It's my favourite part!
> 
> I must also say that I don't like the pose of the first guy. My tip is to do the pose yourself, and see how stupid you feel. He looks like a Sushi chef.


Ha, yeah, it does look a bit funky but don't mock him to his face, he has TWO F'ING CHAINSWORDS! I'm learning by doing and this first box of models are really just to learn on and mistakes are part of learning.

BTW, for the 3rd model I put the arms on, let them dry and then put on the shoulder pads, which I think worked much better, before I glued the pads to the arms then the arms to the body which made it hard to pose properly, what do you think?


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

I dry fit everything with stickytack, then I glue the arms on, then the pads.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

Why are you basing and then priming??? To me that just doesn't make sense especially if you're wanting to keep the color of the grit. 
Models are looking good though. Keep it up.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

arumichic said:


> Why are you basing and then priming??? To me that just doesn't make sense especially if you're wanting to keep the color of the grit.
> Models are looking good though. Keep it up.


From the tutorials I've watched most people seem to prime, paint the grit brown, drybrush a different brown, drybrush bonewhite and finish with a wash. Is this not the right way to do it?


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## scscofield (May 23, 2011)

It is one way of doing it, or you could wait till your done painting then base.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

There's no real "right way" of doing things. If you want to keep the color of the grit, since it's a bit orange-y vs. brown, then don't put the basing on before you start priming. If you want it to be a different color, then yes, prime before you change the color to whatever you want.

However, I don't suggest you doing this with static grass or flocking as there are many colors out there for you to choose from and paint really doesn't like to stick to it too much. Though I've seen washes darken these up a bit.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

I've never found basing material that would look good without being painted...

And I don't think anyone's ever put static grass on a base before priming, at least not intentionally.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

My fine grit and dark green static grass should come tomorrow in the post, I'll try both ways, one with and one without primer and see which looks best. And yeah, even I wouldn't put the grass on first


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

I've seen and heard a couple people do it...so just reiterating common sense here.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

*My Basing Approach*

If you all don't mind me sharing......

My approach to basing (and I am not one to put a lot of time into it compared to the time spent painting the models) is 

1. Prime the model including the base with your favorite Primer (black/white, Citadel/P3/Army Painter (whatever floats your boat)
2. Paint the base a brown on the order of Graveyard Earth or a shade darker.
3. Completely paint the model including highlights/shadings/details - completely finished.
4. Repaint the base with the same brown used at the beginning. This covers up the glops of paint that you have dropped on the base while painting the model and puts a 2nd basecoat of brown over the first.
5. Apply watered down PVC white glue (sometimes with a bit of paint mixed in. It depends on if I think of it).
6. Dip (or sprinkle) the base in Brown or Dark Brown Model Railroad Train Ballast. Let dry. [Where to go to get it>>>> Woodland Scenics Model Train Ballast]
7. Brush over the ballast a watered down mix of PVC white glue to set the material (otherwise the stuff flakes off over time).
8. Add the odd spot of static grass/skulls/miscellany
9. Done. I don't generally paint my basing materials ... I like the way the natural ballast looks. (My personal preference only.) See my PLOG or Showcase for examples. [Apologies ahead of time to those who DON'T like it - it works for me. (and the price is right)]

One note on scale. The Ballast comes in different sizes. With our models at a scale of roughly 1:72 (1 inch model = 6 feet (72in) warrior), the Fine size equates to about .6"-2.1" in scale stones. If you want finer use sand. If you want courser get the next grade up from Woodland Scenics or blend the ballast with the sand......

.... the possibilities are nearly endless......


Have fun!


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

I checked out your plog, and while I love the paintwork and the harpy conversions, I really don't like the bases. 

I look forward to Huk's decision...


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

torealis said:


> I checked out your plog, and while I love the paintwork and the harpy conversions, I really don't like the bases.
> 
> I look forward to Huk's decision...


That is fine.....what works for one.... doesn't for another..... and I do like your bases. How did you get the grass to look that way...It is not simple static grass is it?


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

Me? 

My order is:

1) Assemble model and base with GW's fine grit.
2) Prime model
3) Paint base (scorched brown, khemri brown drybrush)
4) Paint model
5) PVA wherever you want grass (in my nurgle army's case, the whole base) and sprinkle GWs Static Grass, then shake off, hold model upside down and tap the base a few times.
6) Clean up model where static grass might have gone by mistake.


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

Torealis:
K. So you use fine grit at the time you build the model and then prime the whole thing and then paint the basing materials. You add grass after the model is finished and you use GW products.

I have used a coarser grit that is added after the model is finished and remains unpainted, adding the static grass later still (my Army is still waiting on it right now. Some Saturday I'll sit down and do the whole thing).

Thanks, Torealis for laying out your approach.

MrHuk, Keep up the good work and find what works for you.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Do you guys know of a good way to remove super glue from plastic models without damaging them? For example I have a power claw in a shoulder pad that I want to separate, I tried warm soapy water but that did nothing. Plus if I wanted to say remove an arm and reposition it what would be the best way to go about it? I really hate it when you put too much glue and it gets hard and you can't even scrape it off, the Army Painter glue drys so fast it's hard to position a piece before it just sets on you.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

Superglue should snap off?


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## ElTanko (Mar 4, 2010)

I have to say, for a first attempt, you are doing a great job. Its a good dynamic pose, and the paintjob so far is looking really good. The Green looks good to me, and using washes on the robes does wonders.

Keep it up

ElTanko


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

I take a long time to assemble a kit I have not used before as well; it is better to spend ages trying things out than have second thoughts after the glue has dried. Also, the time spent on assembly gives you a better understanding of all the angles, so can pay you back when it comes to working out which order to paint parts.

The two chainsword pose looks a little odd. However, having tried in myself (sadly without actually using chainswords) the feet and hands are well placed to ward his opponent with the leading blade or strike with the raised blade.

The 3rd marine is very good; the braced stance goes well with the shouting head, and with the sword-and-board it gives him a knightly air.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

torealis said:


> Superglue should snap off?



I can probably snap the arms off, but getting the arm out of the shoulder pad proved difficult, it's currently in the freezer as I read that works. Do you have any tips to remove all the left over crusty white bits? I was thinking nail polish remover on a q-tip but I'm not sure if it would damage the plastic.

My Ork Boss just arrived from eBay, why can't all models come like that? It'll take 5 minutes to put together.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I take that back, the mold lines are insane on the boss.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

_"I'll take ya all on! Even if he can't be bothered to build me!"_










_"Get off me shoota!_










Yes, I'm bored. I really want to paint something but my basing stuff still hasn't arrived which is odd since I usually get my stuff next day delivery. I think my photos are getting better also, after reading some tutorials I seem to be taking more natural looking pictures, especially since discovering the white balance setting on my camera.


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## Fenrisian (Jun 12, 2011)

Very nice work for a new guy ( welcome in the wonderfull 40k world ) . even if you do a minor error ( like the lime green on the 1 model ) , the good thing about WH is that you can always repaint or correct. Anyway , keep on going lad !

ps: nice goofing with the half-builded boss


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

As promised, this is the default grit/grass with nothing done to it, it looks OK IMO. I will try the other way next time.










Oh and, finally gave him some love:


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## apidude (Nov 10, 2010)

MrHuk said:


> _"I'll take ya all on! Even if he can't be bothered to build me!"_
> 
> _"Get off me shoota!_
> 
> ... I think my photos are getting better also, after reading some tutorials I seem to be taking more natural looking pictures, especially since discovering the white balance setting on my camera.


Yes, your photos are definitely better. Adjusting the White Balance, using the the self timing shutter release to get rid of hand shake, and Gimp 2.6 to process the photos were what helped me get past the "blurry photo" phase.

P.S. I like your basing....


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I saw some A4 Fluorescent card while I was out today so I grabbed a pack as it was dirt cheap and on sale, there's green, blue, red and yellow. The next time I take some photos I will try them all out and see if they look nicer.

Waiting on my second desk lamp and my Orks from eBay, then I will finally be able to update with some actual painting.

I just put in another order over at Firestorm Games as I've decided to paint my Orks as Death Skulls. I ordered:

Magic Blue 
Electric Blue
Asurmen Blue Citadel Wash 
Khemri Brown 
Calthan Brown
Mordian Blue 
Knarloc Green 
Orkhide Shade 

Now I really should have everything I need, lets hope so eh? I'm at about £135 spent so far, and I only have one painted model LOL!


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

So I finally managed to put brush to mini today and I'm really happy with the result, this was my first Ork and second ever model. IRL and eBay have slowed me down which is why I couldn't update with any real progress up until now.




























As always comments and advice are more than welcome. I think it's an improvement over my first model so that makes me happy, baby steps and all. I think I want to improve the weapons on my next model as they look a bit boring, maybe some blood or rust?


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

*applauds* You've been doing really well actually. A little bit more highlights on the pants and the leather might make it really pop.

Also, if you want to do some blood, try going with Tamiya's clear red. Looks so much better than other reds because it's actually translucent. Add in a lil brown to that and you should be golden, just don't go overboard. lol. 
As for rust, there's rust pigments that you could use. I've actually used a bit of Blazing Orange with Reaper's Scorched Metal and that also looks pretty good if drybrushed or stippled on.
Hope this helps!~


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Thanks for the advice but I REALLY don't want to buy anything else for awhile, this hobby has bled me dry LOL. I have Bright Bronze and Bloody Red as my only red/rust colors, could I do anything half decent with them?


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

Lol. Yeah I know that feeling too. The Bronze and the red mixed in with a bit of yellow should do okay if you have yellow, if not, some dark brown should help too. As for blood, I haven't really seen great effects with just Bloody red. I'm sure you could do something, just again, don't go overboard with it.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I don't have a yellow LOL, but I'll look around for a tutorial or something. I'm at about £150 so far and I've only painted 2 model, crazy stuff. I have about 10 Boyz, 5 Nobz and a Boss to paint yet though, so fingers crossed I won't have to spend any money for awhile.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

The light brown you have for the leather should be an okay substitute for yellow for the time being. I'm about a good $1500~$2000 maybe more into the hobby, given, Drannith and I do share some stuff such as paints and some paintbrushes and we've been in the hobby for a year now (almost exactly), and I only have about 10 models fully painted in my armies... >.< Hahaha!~ Though I've done a bunch of commission work.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

You are making good progress. The skin is particularly well done.

The base is also excellent.

I agree that the weapons are a little flat as large blocks of metal. I suggest a black wash over the top to add more depth.

The blue shoulder pad looks a little patchy to me. It might benefit from another coat.


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## Chris Guard of Mardat (Mar 6, 2011)

I love the skin colour you've used, great work. Also love the Dark Angels. :clapping:

+rep


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> You are making good progress. The skin is particularly well done.
> 
> The base is also excellent.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what happened to the shoulder pad, that was caused by the blue wash, the actual blue underneath was perfectly smooth. As for the weapons, they have seen a black wash already. And thanks, I'm happy with how the base turned out, it definitely looks better than the default/lazy method.



Chris Guard of Mardat said:


> I love the skin colour you've used, great work. Also love the Dark Angels. :clapping:
> 
> +rep


Thanks very much, that was my first attempt at skin of any type.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

A big problem I have is my paints drying on the palette about 5 minutes after putting them on but hopefully that won't be a problem any more, I just watched a fantastic little Youtube video on how to make a wet palette and I'll hopefully pick up all the stuff needed tomorrow when I go shopping. I worked it out online and it'll cost under £4 which is great.

If anyone is interested here's the video:


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

My wet palette looks almost identical, and improved my painting vastly.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Wow, what a difference. I painted for about 4 hours today and the paint only started to dry out near the end, usually it drys out in like 5 - 10 minutes.


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## feckwit101 (Mar 1, 2010)

Cheers for posting the wet pallete thingy :S Gonna give that a go at the weekend


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

feckwit101 said:


> Cheers for posting the wet pallete thingy :S Gonna give that a go at the weekend


No problem, it's really worth doing. It cost me under £4 from Sainsbury's.


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## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

That means it'll cost me about 40p from Lidl!


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## demon bringer (Oct 14, 2008)

very good work for a novice you'll progress in no time +rep


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

torealis said:


> That means it'll cost me about 40p from Lidl!


Ah Lidl! I've never actually shopped there, but I imagine there's a bio hazard sign on the door?


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

demon bringer said:


> very good work for a novice you'll progress in no time +rep


Thanks. I tried my hand at batch painting today (2 models, LOL!) and they're both about 80% done base coat wise, so hopefully I can finish off at least one tomorrow. I'm hoping to produce a similar result to my first Ork just a little better with a few more details.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I was just cleaning out my old cupboard and found a lot of junk, but also a couple of gems! These 3 models were painted like 10 - 15 years ago and I gave up on the hobby soon after. I got back into it a few weeks ago so it was cool to find them.



















I also found a brand new box of 13th Company Storm Claws, result!


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Time for an update, here's 2 models I just finished. This was the first time I painted more than 1 model at a time and I'd say it'll be the last time for now, I'm just too slow to make it work. A lot of things went wrong, mainly my GW standard brush splitting and being completely useless, I still can't believe how bad quality the brush is, splitting after 4 models is just terrible. Luckily the next time I paint I'll be using a set of Winsor Series 7 brushes.

Anyway, enough moaning. I think I improved the weapons and the mouth on these models, I used red on the gums/mouth, highlighted with Dheneb Stone and then washed with Sepia, before I just did Dheneb Stone over the black basecoat and left it at that. As for the weapons I've added some bronze which I've dulled down several times with both Badab Black and Devlan Mud, I think they look much better than my first attempt where it was just plain Gunmetal. Overall I think these 2 are a step up from my first, I'll post a shot of the 3 together at the end.

Second Ork:




























Third Ork:




























Family photo, my "army" so far:


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## Fenrisian (Jun 12, 2011)

Drilling your barrel would improve the quality of the model ! keep on the good job


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Fenrisian said:


> Drilling your barrel would improve the quality of the model ! keep on the good job


Buying a drill is on my "to do" list, but it'll have to wait for now.


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## Fenrisian (Jun 12, 2011)

Aight , atleast you know  army painter have a nice set that cost 30$ (canadian) that come with a scalpel, a manual drill, a bursh and tweezers. Its all workin well


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I tried something different today, here's my attempt at a "winter Ork", I'm not that happy with how he turned out, the skin doesn't look as fluid as my other Boyz but hey ho, you live and learn.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

The teeth and nails look very good.

The skin does not look that bad to me; a unit would certainly looks great in that colour.

As his skin is blue he might look better with different trousers; possibly a light grey to keep the winter theme.


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## WarlordKaptainGrishnak (Dec 23, 2008)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> The teeth and nails look very good.
> 
> The skin does not look that bad to me; a unit would certainly looks great in that colour.
> 
> As his skin is blue he might look better with different trousers; possibly a light grey to keep the winter theme.


Totally agree with Dave here. Try the grey trousers and see if you like it more.

I must say I am quite impressed with the improvement you have made between models. Will keep an eye on this to see your progress, seems promising. Keep it up! + rep


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Thanks guys. And you're both right, grey would have looked better for sure. I've only been painting Boyz so far as I have like 10 of them but I think I might step up my game and try a Nob next time.


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## mutronics (Oct 11, 2010)

This is much better than anything i could pull out my hat with Orks. Don't be too hard on yourself, this is good stuff. Definately better than tabletop standard!


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Nice work on the orks!


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I just finished my first Nob and I was so happy with it, until I accidentally broke the arm off. I feel so gutted right now, he was easily my best model and I ruined him at the last minute. I glued it back on but looking at it you can see it's not flush and it's a little high, all in all I am so upset with myself, it could have been so easily avoided but I'm never happy and I have to keep pushing and prodding and poking trying to get everything perfect and yeah, sometimes that bites you in the ass and my ass is currently bleeding.

Here he is anyway:


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

I like the jaw plate; the striped effect really pops.

The misaligned arm is not that noticeable if you do not know it is there; I had to look before I found it.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I was most happy with the skin, and it was so simple to do. Overall I'm happy because I think I'm on the right path now, but I'm so upset that I ruined his arm at the last second.


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Impressive progress, the metallics might need a bit of edge highlights. Actually... metallics are the best place to start to learn hard edge highlights because those tend to be lower contrast when hit by light.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

You've been doing really really well. Great job! Keep it up! The grey pants look much better for the "wintery" styled ork too. And don't get yourself too hung up on small things like the arm reattachment. You can't really notice it.


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## Daemon Prince Paintbox (Feb 21, 2011)

What do you use in the background of your photos? Is card, paper or something else?

Good progress so far. Keep it up.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Daemon Prince Paintbox said:


> What do you use in the background of your photos? Is card, paper or something else?
> 
> Good progress so far. Keep it up.


It's just a piece of A4 white card, well actually it's bright yellow but I use the back of it which is white.


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## Bane_of_Kings (Oct 28, 2009)

Pretty awesome stuff there .


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

And I'm spent! This model took about 15 hours total over 4 days which is about the same amount of time I've spent on all my other models put together. I'm hoping you'll think it was worth, I do!

AOBR Ork Warboss:


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Excellent work.


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## Reactive (Aug 25, 2010)

Wow! You've come a long ways, and it's only been a month! Really hard to believe you had only just made your Dark Angel less than thirty days ago and now you've got a well done war boss. Very nice job, I look forward to seeing you progress more.


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## Daemon Prince Paintbox (Feb 21, 2011)

Keep it up! It's amazing what a simple wash can do for a model. What's next?


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Looks absolutely great man. Don't feel bad about the 15 hours work, it was well spend AND a model as important as a warboss deserves some extra attention! +rep


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Thanks everyone for your nice comments. And it's OK, the next model I paint will be the stripped basic Marine from my childhood which should take 30 minutes LOL. I also just won 40 Orks and Gretchins on eBay so they'll be nice and easy to paint to refuel.


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

You've been doing really really well! Looks good! And really don't feel bad about the 15 hours put into it. It really was well spent. I just finished the same model and probably put in about 15-20 hours too. Keep on the good work!


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

I've been lacking motivation lately, hence the lack of updates but I picked up some old school Orks from eBay and I'm looking forward to painting them, the old models just have a certain charm about them. I tell you what though, they're tiny! Even the bigger one is dwarfed by a regular Ork boy.









_(yes, I do have his arm)_


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Here's the old school Ork finished, I have some of these models for sale in the trade section BTW, if anyone is interested!


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Excellent work picking up the texture on the axe shaft.

The only change I can suggest is painting a glyph on his back plate as it looks a little odd as a plain disc.


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## MrHuk (Jul 15, 2011)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> Excellent work picking up the texture on the axe shaft.
> 
> The only change I can suggest is painting a glyph on his back plate as it looks a little odd as a plain disc.


Yeah, I kinda wondered WTF to do with that disc.


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