# Legion Rising - Projects from The Dark Works



## Subtle Discord

*An Introduction ~ Part 1*

It came from the frozen northern Chaos wastes… Canada, that is. Welcome to this first in a long line of Text-&-Picture-Walls. (I tend to ramble sometimes, _in a good way_, with lots of nice photos.) Welcome to my muse, my passion, my obsession… my insanity. The Dark Gods whisper to me from the Warp, and I am compelled to obey. They let me see so many things I want to make real, but I only have one mind, two hands, and so many hours. Oh well, no rest for the wicked, no sleep for the weary… the whispers, the voices in my head, they won’t let me…

I’ve been gaming and playing Warhammer 40,000 on-and-off for over 20 years; the bulk of it, I attempted to collect and paint a Chaos army – Black Legion, more specifically. I always collected a modest force, but it was never as complete or elaborate as I wanted. And so, as it happens to many of us, life distracts us from our addictive little plastic soldiers, and they get tucked away. But for most, that really enjoy the hobby, we always come back. In early 2011 I dusted off my bits boxes, cases of miniatures, supplies, and took stock. I had some solid units that could use some polish to get started with, and a few simple scratch-build projects that never got done. As good a start as any.










I chose to do a cold-centric theme throughout the army; Most accent colours are in neutral or cool colours, and I extended the concept to the blue-grey highlights I use for the Black.










Not all bad guys wear black, but the Legion make a point of it; here's a small block of the army with highlights done, ready for some weathering.
_
This_ time I wanted it to be different; I wanted to _really_ create the unique, personal, and elaborate army that I could see in my mind when I was fifteen, and flipping the Realms of Chaos books. Only in recent kits has GW started to release what I would consider ‘proper’ Chaos Vechile kits; Love or hate the new Daemon Engines, they definitely have a good Chaos style/feel to them. Before this round of kits, Chaos got an extra sprew or two thrown into the box, and that was a major defining look for the faction. _Just adding spikes does not a Chaos army make!_ I do some modest kit-bashing and converting on Troops and HQ to keep the army feeling unique; I like the rank-and-file models to each have a bit of flavor, but nothing too elaborate, yet. Now the vehicles, they offer such a wonderful large canvas to work with. One that has been neglected for far too long.

The idea was simple enough, just take the feel and look of Chaos used on the 'proper' Chaos Troops miniatures and illustrated in the books, and run with it. Read: Lots of banding/trimming, rivets, arrows, points, and layering... _lots _of layering. I had a general idea of where I wanted the look of the army to go, but now I needed more of a theme. I found direction in the movie Apocalypse Now from the The 1st of the 9th Air Cavalry. In the movie, they are a… ‘self-motivated’ unit that bombs around Vietnam in helicopters looking for good places to surf between (and during) the fighting. During aggressive unexpected assaults, they terrorizing the enemy by playing Wagner (Ride of the Valkyries) over loud speakers attached to the helicopters. Switch helicopters for some VTL vehicles and loud speakers for Dirge Casters and the start of my theme was forming; The 1st of the 9th Black Crusade – Heavy Armoured Cavalry. ('Heavy' so I had added excuse to really armour the vehicles) At the time, fliers were still off in the distance; I knew I wanted some for show at least, for the theme, but formal rules didn’t even exist. So, I choose to focus on a mechanized army to build a core, and then consider some kind of flying transport in the future. In Warhammer 40,000 it’s the feet on the ground that gets things done, after all.










So, I went about making my army look Chaos, _without_ adding any spikes. I should also mention I _really_ like working with Rare Earth (Neodymium) Magnets. Sooo useful! 









This Rhino and Predator were the first serious Chaos creations I put together with an eye for the look I was going for. When they were done, I _knew_ I was on to something.

One of my favorite materials is styrene plastic. If you’re trying to build something mechanical and angular, just put your mind to it and you can build it in plastic. Take it far enough and you can build actual working mechanics in nothing but styrene, if you wanted to. As a general tip about learning how to build in styrene, I suggest looking up general scratch building techniques. There are many tabletop gamers who are doing amazing things, but there is much more experience out there if you broaden your search. Military modellers have been scratch building models of exceptional detail for many decades; I just ignore the subject and absorb the technique.

















My preferred painting method: Paint the harder stuff messy and quick to get it done looking the way I want. Then go in to carefully clean up the mess. Rinse-and-repeat until finished.

























I put a lot of effort into the scratch-build, but these _are_ playing miniatures, I choose to keep the paint job more straight forward and attainable. I let the building do the real talking.

Base colours + Lots of washing and glazing + Simple (but clean) 4-step layered highlighting + A bit of strategically placed blending + Some straightforward sponged chipping + A dusting with weathering powder = Now _that's_ Black Legion without loosing my mind painting it.

By late 2011 I had some good progress on the core I was bringing together, and I figured I’d start showing off some of my work. I started a modest thread showing a few of my builds, and blathering about what I do and how I do it. Little did I know I was already too far down the Dark Path to ever find my way back… wanting to reproduce things, I started to work with RTV rubber making moulds for resin casting. Two things quickly happened: 1) I learned that I am quite good at making complex resin casting moulds. 2) I'm totally hooked to the process and really enjoy doing it! Now, as soon as I could actually replicate my work, that opened another door altogether...

Most of what you see here was just the start, stay tuned for Part 2: I'll show where this has all has lead, and talk about where it's going. For now, thanks for looking, thanks for reading, much more to come...


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## Subtle Discord

*An Introduction ~ Part 2*

Ok then, where was I? Oh yes, the mysterious dark art of resin casting and how it has forever corrupted my soul... in a _good_ way!

Now, I like scratch building, *a lot*. It's great to take an idea, design a flat template, and then turn that template into a three dimensional object. Problem is, scratch building is _very_ labour intensive when you're as particular as I am. Larger things like vehicles may justify a one-off build that will take quite a bit of labour; they're large and not as prolific as troops, so why not? But, when you start getting down to doing smaller objects across an entire army, the idea of building say, six reasonably identical Havoc Launchers, becomes daunting. So I figured it may be a good idea to learn how to make some resin casting moulds...

















I've always hated the Havoc Launchers provided on the Chaos vehicle accessories sprew. _This_ is what I think a Havoc Launcher should look like.

I originally created my first replacement Havoc Launcher as a single solid object. It was one of my first moulds, so I was still experimenting. That early prototype worked, but it came with some limitations and drawbacks. If you resin cast, you quickly learn that your biggest enemy is bubbles. So, solid objects with no 'hidden sides' give you no place to hide bubbles. You can *never* get rid of _all_ of the bubbles _all_ of the time, but you can get rid of _most_ of them. Also, if you cast an item correctly you can actually hide the rest. That is my constant goal - _avoid or destroy all (most) bubbles_. This kit is a perfect example; I've designed the moulds to intentionally cast the parts with the detail side down (As I try to do with all my moulds, when possible), so if any bubbles do form, they rise to the back/bottom of the part during curing, and will be hidden by the assemble of the kit. It's not genius or witchcraft, but I think it's clever. It doesn't work every time, but _anything_ that saves a few casts from the reject bin is a good design philosophy.

With some logic, careful consideration, trial-and-error, and just a bit of luck here-and-there I worked out most of the kinks for making more complex resin casting moulds. It's one of those things that anyone can do, but it takes a certain knack to do it well. I've still got lots to learn, and I want to invest in more studio equipment so that I can start doing other casting processes. Currently I only use Pressure Casting (50+ PSI) for bubble eradication, but I also want to start doing Vacuum Casting for when pressure isn't the best solution, and that will require a proper Vacuum Chamber. Hopefully, all in due time.

I learned a lot making this little kit, but I wasn't sure if it was going to translate into larger items. Time to move up to making something... bigger...

















I had this Land Raider kit calling to me, compelling me to make it Chaos, so who was I to argue? In these photos you can also see the Havoc Launcher prototype just before casting.









Did I mention it was a larger project? This is a picture of a mould, as large as the Land Raider itself, for just *one* (rather large) part in the final kit.

One thing I quickly learned making RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) rubber moulds: Bulk matters. It takes some extra rubber, but in for a penny, in for a pound, I say. Making the walls of the mould thick ensures that the part casts without warping. Adding lots of the pictured locking-pins to hold the mould together is also key; A well made 2-part split mould like this locks together perfectly every time, minimizing mould lines and all but removing any mould slipping. Again, this mould cures the part face-down, so bubbles rise to the hidden back side. I put the same thought and process into _all_ my moulds.









Designation: Loricatus Pattern Mk.I Heavy Land Raider

I think the investment in time and materials is worth it when you can make something like _this_, and completely transform the original Land Raider into a rolling icon of Chaos. (Look ma'! No spikes!) Ok, so clearly my ideas on making larger moulds were translating well to the larger objects. *In his best Montgomery Burns voice* _Excellent!_ But there was still another challenge that I was trying to deal with at the same time. Enter the Proditor Pattern Mk.II Rhino Trim kit for demonstration.









This build was actually the first time I used one of my own resin kits to trim a Rhino. Up to this point they had all been scratch builds made of styrene and glued to the model as I built.

With the Land Raider I was worried about how _large_ the parts are/were, with my Chaos Rhino Trim kits it was how _small/thin_ they are/were. On the surface it seems straight forward to cast these trim pieces; they are nice flat-backed parts, after all. But, when you consider that they are only 0.8mm tall not including the rivets (I use two layers of 0.4mm sheet styrene for my trim/banding details) it makes the parts very long, thin, and delicate. How to get the resin into the moulds became a real issue because of this. After some research and a few practice moulds I adopted and refined a method of using a syringe to forcibly inject resin into the moulds. Without the added pressure to force the resin into the mould, I don't think I would be able to make these in my modest studio.









Proditor Pattern Light Armour Trim Kits - _Left:_ Mk.II (Pictured here) _Right:_ Mk.I (Pictured in Part 1)

So, even though these trim kits don't use that much resin to produce, they make up for it in the technical challenges inherent in their design. With what I learned here, combined with what I had learned from my other early projects, I covered most of the major technical issues I might run into for any of my current design plans. I was starting to feel confident enough to do something even more elaborate.


















Started before I learned resin casting, I glued the scratch-built styrene directly onto the model as a scaffold to construct on, so I was never able to take it off to make moulds of it.

Unfortunately, all of my building has stopped my painting in its tracks. This Loricatus Pattern Mk.II Predator hasn't come any further than what's pictured here. I've finally started to get my studio back in some level of order and my painting area is active again. This beast should see some progress soon, along with several other monsters hiding in the shadows.

Even though I couldn't make a cast of these parts I really liked the design; with some further inspiration and some conversations with fellow gamers and tank-heads, I had a few other changes I wanted to make.

Naturally, now everything I build has casting in mind from that start, unless it uses parts that are protected in some way. As long as I make every part myself, (and don't build directly on or with any GW pieces) I'm free to replicate anything I build. Since I couldn't actually use this build for a kit, I was forced to make another from scratch.

More on that in Part 3...


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## Subtle Discord

*An Introduction ~ Part 3
*
So this time, I built the Predator kit with resin casting in mind...









_This time_ I built everything 'loose' - able to come free from the model. Not being able to glue to parts down to the model for support came with its own challenges, to say the least.

I took the opportunity to tweak the design and incorporate elements I used in the Land Raider, designing them to look cohesive-but-unique when together. I also completely changed the shape of the turret by extending the slope of the original turret down. In my opinion, this turret looks like it is designed to deflect incoming fire much better than the original turret shape. Beyond those two major changes the overall design stayed very true to the MK.II Pattern.









Originally I had use the part in the GW Predator kit to make the sponson weapon link, but if I wanted to make a complete kit I needed to design my own solution.

I'm very pleased with how it turned out. It's a post with a 'cap' that has a proper seat for the optics bit. It's designed to work with two square 1/8"x1/8"x1/16" magnets, letting you easily swap between Las'Cannon or Heavy Bolter. Square magnets also let the optics turn with the weapon. It's a little thing, but hey. Normally I work in metric, with metric tools, but Neodymium (Rare Earth) Magnets are the one exception. The selection of sizes in Imperial is just so vast; I can't find the same in metric.

















Designation: Loricatus Pattern Mk.III Heavy Predator - The culmination of everything I've learned so far about casting, manifest in resin for the first time. I do believe I've got the hang of this!

So this brings me to the end of the Dark Path that lead me to this point. My selection is modest so far, but everything seen cast in resin through the course of this thread is/will be in production, and available from my shop The Dark Works, if anyone is interested. I'll also add to this thread with some tutorials on what I learned and some of my techniques over the coming weeks and months. I've been itching to paint lately, so expect a painting article or two sooner-or-later, but for now it's all about the current builds and expanding the line of kits I have to offer. Speaking of which... (What, you though it was over? *Never!* Submit to the will of the Dark Gods... *Subtle starts speaking in strange tongues* ... *Cough* Err... where was I?)

















In case you thought I only did scratch-build, here's a Chaos Decimator that's on my workbench. Naturally I took the time to magnetize the arms for easy weapon swapping.

For the most part, the Decimator will be stock. It's just such a hardcore miniature, it really doesn't need much modification if you don't want to invest the effort. I do plan on altering the weapons a bit; Improving the Storm Lasers, Conversion Beamer, and Butcher Cannons to make them _more_ Chaos. The stock butcher Cannon especially, to me, is very... meh. Reaper Auto-Cannon barrels attached to an 'ok' ammo-drum-like-thing. I think I can do better. It needs more... _Butcher!_

















What's that you say? A proper Chaos Storm Eagle? I think I may be able to work something out. (_Must_ have VTL vehicles for my Air Cavalry!)

This is a very early proof of concept build, not even a prototype yet. (It's been in the back of my brain for quite some time.) Since building this, I've had time to contemplate, and I want to go back to the CAD design one more time and refine this base structure. It is very close to what is planned, but I have several adjustments to make. This is going to be a large ambitious build that will take some time to come together, but it's something I really want to make happen, so it's on my short list. Unlike the Forge World Storm Eagle, my kit will make much more use of the base GW Storm Raven kit. It's such a good model it's a shame not to use as much of it as possible. It should have a slightly longer and leaner line than the FW kit, while still feeling like plausible counterpart. Compare this to the early build picture of the Predator, and you can have an idea where this is going. Being a flying vehicle, I plan on doing the Chaos Trim detailing with a lighter plastic; .33mm or.25mm verse the normal 0.4mm. It should give it a more sleek lighter look. Well... as sleek as you can make these 'flying bricks' look, that is. And I _think_ the missile racks are going to mount wrap-around on the corner of the engine housing, with a stabilizer coming out from the center. It's a little hard to describe, but the Havoc Launcher should also give an idea of the feel they will have. My take of a Reaper Auto-Cannon for the nose, and Las'Cannons for the wings will also be part of the build. I want to make this as complete as the Predator kit. Also, a key feature of this kit, it will be really _really easy to build_. Everything interlocks and links together; the only thing holding the entire build pictured here together is that single rubber band. Everything is dry fit and held together because it's locked that way.









I mulled some ideas over on the left, inspired by the original track pattern. I've chosen to go with something more unique.

I've considered doing treads before, but the repetition always turned me off. (I have to make _how many?!_) So, this time I'm going to make a small selection of links and make moulds to mass produce them. I'll still need to make _lots_ of them, but casting them a few at a time is more appealing than fabricating each one. from there I'll construct the needed lengths from a collection of links.

The other issue was size; they're so small (especially the Rhino links) that there really isn't that much room to be that creative. There's only so much you can do with a tiny link, even on a Land Raider. In the end, they are a very utilitarian part of the tank so I chose to keep them simple enough. A single layer with low-profile rivets.

Finally, also on my (not so) short list is a Chaos Vindicator kit in the Loricatus Pattern style, and a selection of Chaos vehicle components: Chaos Search Light, Dirge Caster, 'Dozer Blades & Destroyer Blades for Rhino and Land Raider chassis. I'm also looking at the Hell Drake kit and trying to figure out a way to make a 'Hell Drake Jet' kit. Everyone who doesn't like the Drake seems to want it to be a jet, maybe I can help them out. I've also got this really cool idea for counts-as Chaos Drop Pods... I think I want to call them Hell Thorns... *Subtle's speech starts to drift* ... or Hell Spikes... fired from orbit, they drive into the planet, planting themselves and opening a portal for troops... *Subtle starts wandering off, still muttering to himself* ... so much to do, so little time...


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## kaboot

Wow. That's all I can say. Amazing painting, and amazing sculpting. I love the creativity, and I cant even imagine the time you have put into this. 

Look forwards to seeing this this one develop 

+rep


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## Deneris

Excellent work! I've bookmarked your site and hope to buy... well, something... soon, hopefully.

Keep up the great stuff!


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## fatmantis

simply simply wow! you sir are one talented individual, and i am in awe of your skill.


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## stuff

This is by far the most interesting read I've had on Heresy for a while. This thread os truly inspirational. I want to make all of these things!!! 

Can't wait to see more.


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## Subtle Discord

First off, thanks for the kind words and positive feedback. I tend to start many of my posts off with a 'thank you', and some times I feel like a bit of a broken record. But, I mean it every time I say it. When I first started showing my work I was caught off guard by the response from the community I received; while I do good work, I can get... distracted and/or discouraged sometimes, and the good feedback really helps give me a boost and keep me focused on actually finishing things.

This p'log is playing a bit of catch-up with content I've been showing in a few other corners of the internet, so you can expect a modest bombardment of content over the next while. For example...









Ammo Drums, Smoke Launchers, and Search Lights, oh my!

These still have a few more details to be finished (mostly rivets) but they'll be done soon. I'm trying to keep everything modular and magnet ready. Yep, options and flexibility are good.

I've got a few other bits-and-pieces to go along with these, and I'll show them all off more when I can talk in length about my plans for these new kits. I think I might have a building article to add in the mix as well, but that's a for another post.

But before then, I have a large ramble I'd like to do about tools. You see, I have a bit of a... _thing_ for quality tools and useful found items being turned into tools. So, stay tuned, and get ready to do some reading, if you are interested.

If tools, technique, and equipment isn't really your thing, don't worry, I have plans for painting tutorials and showcasing much more of my own army. Much more to come...


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## Dies Irae

Oh My God.
My first thought when I saw your styrene work was "TEACH ME, MASTER!!!". The paintwork is also above all (and I see we use the same messy technique :wink: )
And then I saw you started casting these things. I cannot express how much I adore people like you, who have the skills to turn what their minds create into something physical, and offer it to the world.
I mean it's F'ing better and cheaper than Forge World's kit!
I have two Rhinos in the final stage of assembly, and in a few weeks time they would have been painted, but now I think I'm just gonna order two trim kits from your shop and try to fit them around what little decoration is already on them.

You sir are a master, and I am proud to know that the Chaos Forces feature such talented craftsmen.


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## Jacobite

Hey Subtle, thanks for jumping over! I'm so happy you did. As I said before; amazing stuff, in particular that smaller stuff, the smoke launcher and ammo drums, the small amount of plasticard stuff I've done has shown me how bloody hard it is to get things like that as clean as you have. 

Looking forward to seeing how that Storm Raven works out as well. Quick question. With square magnets, how do you make the holes?


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## Veteran Sergeant

To suggest what you've been creating was impressive would likely be an understatement.


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks for the kind words. I hope I can keep impressing with my future tales and exploits pursuing my obsession that is the war-gaming hobby. While I've learned a lot (with plenty to share already) I've still got lots more to figure out, and It'll be fun to share the ride.

To answer _Jacobite_, when I'm working with square magnets it's always when I'm building in Styrene plastic; it's just not practical to try and cut square holes in most model kits or miniatures. In those cases I would drill and work with round magnets, or build a square post/pin and drill a round hole in the center for the magnet.

When I build with Styrene I have three options; 1) Build four actual walls of material to create a box. 2) Use square tube cut to the right height to create a seat. 3) Cut a hole of the right size into a sheet of plastic and then laminate it to a surface to create a spot for the magnet. No one method is really 'right', they all have situations that suit them.


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## Subtle Discord

*Legion Rising - Tools of the Dark Manufactorium*

*Tools of the Dark Manufactorium*

This had been a two part article on most of the common tools I use, but since the information is already together, I'll post it as one massive orbital bombardment of hobby information. Target Locked... Release payload!

First up, let me just say that I try to talk from a place of first hand knowledge and experience; I won't write about something unless I've tired it myself. My aim in these articles is to show a wide range of tools and techniques - from basic to more advanced - so people can get a really good idea of what's involved, and try it themselves if they want. I Always found lots of great information while researching and reading, but it was usually in bits-and-pieces or poorly documented. I figured it might be helpful for some to get a lot of my lessons in concentrated form, and create some free extra added value from my studio.

My methods and opinions are not necessarily 'the best', they're just what I do and think, and they work for me. I take what I do, and try to push it as far as I can, because I'm lucky enough to have a basement to setup my studio in. I understand that scope and scale of workspace is set by your living space. Take what I talk about and make it fit the scale and scope of your hobby; however there are things that hold true everywhere, no matter how large or elaborate the setup is.

*Good Light -* Weather you're building or painting, lots of good light is key. Get yourself several 26W 'Daylight' or 'Cool White' bulbs and brighten up your space. Setting them up in adjustable arm-lamps lets you move the light where you need it to eliminate shadows. Do your eyes a favor, use good light while you work.

*Organized Space -* No matter how humble the space try to have some level of organization. Trust me, I constantly struggle with this, and my space gets seriously cluttered. But once-and-awhile you need to tidy up. Once things start finding a logical place to go, the entire build and paint process is improved by it.

*Quality Tools -* I'm a bit of a tool snob, and that's what this article is about. Don't get me wrong, we all start somewhere, and you can do amazing things with a limited selection of tools. Do yourself another favor, and make your limited starting tools _good_ ones. The thing is, a few quality tools _won't_ instantly make you more skilled at building and modeling; but they _will_ make all your projects easier and more enjoyable, by working _exactly_ how they should. Low quality tools can and will ruin hard work very quickly, so get something that works the way it should from the start. Quality tools are an investment, and many last decades or a lifetime, but in many cases the best tools don't even cost very much. Take your time and purchase some select quality tools over the years, and keep a supply of other simple disposable tools at hand, and you'll have what you need to do great work. Just think about how much you spend on these models; it's only fair to spend a little on the tools your use to build them.









Cheap and simple - exactly my speed. Not everything needs to cost much to setup.

It doesn't take anything really elaborate to take some good pictures. I took a cheap table on wheels, mounted an old magazine rack on it (that also holds an extra overhead light), and attached sheet of textured white plastic as a backdrop. Bring in a few lamps and a cheap tripod and I'm good-to-go. Since the table is on wheels I can roll it away when I don't need it.

If you want good feedback on your work, take good pictures. This simple setup is all I really use when I want to take bright, clean, clear photographs.










Lets start with some of the basics ~ Clip, Crush, and Bend. Try to get spring-loaded Pliers and Clippers if you can.

1) Be sure to get a good set of clippers. Don't settle for a set that will mangle parts as you try to clip them free of a sprew. A set of nippers is also useful now-and-then.

2) A good set of standard Pliers and a set of Needle-Nose Pliers are always useful. Make sure they have good teeth for a strong bite and grip.

3) Sometimes you want to bend or pinch something without damaging it. A set of Round Pliers is handy if you work with metals. I've added a bit of rubber wire insulation to give them extra padding. 










If you're going to scratch-build, you're going to do a lot of cutting and measuring.

1) _Don't ever cut with a wood or plastic ruler!_ You're asking for bad cut if you do. Get at least one good stainless steel ruler. The larger ones to the top of the picture are good for larger projects, but the thinner rulers in the middle are perfect for cutting styrene. The Square to the left is great for making accurate 90° cuts. I prefer a ruler that doesn't have a no-slip back (cork or rubber) so the ruler sits directly on the plastic I cut. It helps with accuracy and making precise cuts.

2) A digital Caliper and a digital Angle Gauge help take really accurate measurements easily. They each cost about $22 CAD, and they're worth their weight in gold. I couldn't get my work as accurate as I do, without them. 










You don't need a lot of different blades to do great work, I cut the vast majority of my projects with the same razor blade.

1) By far my favorite razors are No.11 blades; I use them for almost all my styrene cutting. Do yourself a favor and buy them in _bulk_. It costs a bit more upfront, but you save a lot more in the long run, and you always have fresh blades. A No.11 blade has a really fine tip that will hold up well during cutting, but they break eventually (especially on heavy styrene) and need to be replace regularly to keep cuts clean. When I'm chopping plastic, I prefer to use the push blades shown in the center-middle. They're much thinner then a No.11 blade, so they are excellent for chopping and shaving through material.

2) If you're cutting a _lot_ of sheet styrene like I do, a ring-style handle is a good investment. It holds the blade directly under your finger and really locks it in place, helping make very accurate vertical cuts, very safely. Not quite a 'must have', but I swear by it and can't do lots of cutting without it.

3) A standard stick handle is a good standby for holding a blade, and a larger handle is always useful for larger blades and when you want a more substantial grip. The larger handle is also good for larger chisel-style blades. I don't use them often, but they're very useful when they're needed.

4) A Compass is always useful for drawing circles and arcs, but I use this one to cut them as well. By replacing the drawing point with a second sharp metal point, I can use it to scribe into plastic and cut circles. It's a bit of a crude cutting tool, but it works in a pinch to make very accurate circles and arcs. 










A selection of saws, miter boxes, and the handy-dandy Chop-It from Micro-Mark.

1) The top saw is a crude club beside the elegant rapier that is the bottom saw. I use the heavy saw up top to do really rough cuts; it never touches a model, it's a utility saw for ripping through things. The second pictured on the bottom is called a Razor Saw or a Jeweller's Saw. The blades (which you can buy in bulk) are thinner than a razor and have fine teeth that can quickly cut through any material a modeler might work with. With a Razor Saw you can harvest a part from a model with great care. I get all my Jewellery tools from places like Contenti and Rio Grand. Any Jeweller Supplier is, hands-down, the best place to get Saws (and bulk replacement Blades), bulk Drill Bits, and quality Files.

2) These are two Razor Miter Saws, with their Miter Boxes. Sometimes you can't use a blade to slice through an object (tubes tend to crush and distort) so it is best to cut it with a saw. The Miter Box helps make accurate cuts at most common angles. The plastic orange Miter Box to the top is for smaller items, and the aluminum Miter Box on the bottom is used for larger material.

3) When repetition is the name of the day, the Chop-It from Micro-Mark is a really cost effective solution. This little arm lets you chop simple pieces that are identical, without losing your mind. The rail is customizable to let you set any angle you need the chop to be. Very handy when you need a ton of tiny consistent bits. 










My go-to selection of adhesives. Never underestimate the advantages of using the right adhesive for the job.

1) I discovered Acrylic Adhesive many years ago and I try to extol its virtues to anyone who will listen. I hardly ever use White Glue because of this wonderful stuff. I can find it at well stocked Art Stores and Hobby/Craft Shops, but it can be hard to locate. It's also a little expensive, but it goes a long way; a bottle will last years. When used for basing it shrinks very tight and bonds super strong; it holds basing material better than While Glue ever did. It dries clear, and since it's acrylic it dries waterproof. It can be mixed with acrylic paints to thin and/or toughen them, makes a good base for homemade washes, and works well as a protective varnish for scenery pieces or even models in a pinch. This is just great glue with lots of other uses. The only thing to really remember is that it is not sticky or tacky; parts must be in good contact and let dry completely. Once it's dry, it's _really_ solid.

2) When I do use White Glue, I use Weldbond. Nice and sticky, super strong, and thins well for large coverage.

3) Spray adhesive comes in a lot of brands, some better than others; you'll need to a brand that works well for you. That said, it's great for making _anything_ sticky. I use it all the time to glue sand paper to sanding blocks, glue no-slip pads to the bottom of items, or to laminate virtually any two materials together. Spray Adhesive has a tendency to dry out and loose its stick (especially the cheap stuff) so I wouldn't use it on important long-term building jobs, but when you need to make something sticky, it's great.

4) My favorite brand of Plastic Glue is made by Tamiya; white cap is the general purpose glue, and the green cap is an Extra Thin product. The white cap glue is great for big projects and the built-in brush gives you lots of control. The white cap glue is useful, but... The green cap Extra Thin glue is _absolutely amazing_ and I use it a _lot_. Since it's very thin you can use the built-in brush to touch a join, and capillary action will pull just enough glue into the gap to fuse the parts. You can also use the brush to smooth and clean joins, should you happen to add a bit too much glue. A damp glue brush can also be used to polish and finish an area that has been sanded. Being mostly solvent, the glue also evaporates very quickly, keeping the glue lines very clean and letting you smooth surfaces with it. Finally you can use this glue to carefully create a bit of 'plastic soup' that you can use to fill small gaps and cracks; excellent for stubborn wrist, elbow, and shoulder conversions. This glue is _really_ useful, and i always have a few bottles in the studio; I think I might do an art installation with all of the empties. 

5) Last but not least, the humble Super Glue. Normally, you can find a cheap brand of Super Glue that will do, and you can save a bit by finding that strong generic brand. But, I've really gown to like the official Krazy Glue single use tubes. With larger tubes, no matter what brand, I was loosing most of it when it dried in the tube. With these tubes you open a small amount (that still lasts as long as a larger tube) and save the rest for later. If it dries out, it's fine, you have more. Better still, each tube has a fresh tip, and they can be easily trimmed down to a nice point to get the glue into tight places. The cost a bit more, being a brand name product, but I save more in the end by not wasting glue.










Speaking of glue and adhesives, it's worth mentioning a few things about Syringes.

1) This kind of syringe can be purchased at many Drug Stores, Pharmacies, or Chemists. You might need to search, but try to find an Oral Medication Syringe if you can. These Syringes have a plunger that is made of plastic and has an o-ring gasket to create a seal. You can put all but the Spray Adhesive and the Krazy Glue into one of these Syrines, and since very little of the rubber is exposed to the damaging adhesive, it won't wear out or turn to slag. I'm still having a hard time finding a bulk supply of these Syringes in Canada; I would love to get 20cc and 30cc sizes for larger projects. Turns out they're not made and distributed by many companies.

2) The next best thing can be found at a well stocked Art Store or Hobby Shop. These are rubber-plunger Syringes with super fine tips for applying thin beads of glue. Since the plunger is all rubber you'll have issues using them with solvent based adhesives. They can work, but the rubber tends to go... funny... after a while.

3) Standard Syringes can be found in massive sizes (this is a 30cc) if you have larger projects.

4) Fine point tips that fit on most standard Syringes can be found in Hobby Shops as well. Testors makes the ones I use. They resist glue, so anything that might dry in them can be easily pushed out, letting a pack last a very long time.

*Subtle stops and takes a long deep breath...* Pant... wheeze... gasp... *He composes himself* ...










The fundamental task - make a hole. A wide selection of tools for just that. And Magnets, because many times _they_ are the reason you're drilling a hole.

1) I can remember being 14 and reading White Dwarf, and they would talk about a Pin Vice used for drilling holes to pin and support delicate conversions. I lived in the middle of nowhere, so they seemed like witchcraft far outside my reach. Needless to say, if you don't have a Pin Vice, get one. In fact, get several, so you don't have to switch Drill Bits as often.

2) This is a Micro Hole Punch from Mico-Mark (this place has _too many_ wonderful little tools to spend money on - be warned) that can punch discs out of various materials. 0.5mm to 5.0mm in half millimeter steps. Place the material between the plastic sheet and the metal plate, place the corresponding pin the the hole, and strike it with a plastic/rubber hammer. Great for rivets, gauges, gaskets, and all manner of other small round bits.

3) A selection of Drill Bits. The gold Bits at the top are titanium-coated, and can be found at most Hardware stores. For larger drilling, if you get goods ones, they can be quite good and will keep a sharp edge for a long time. Downside with a Hardware store is selection; smaller Drill Bits are usually only sold in sets. I buy all my Drill bits in bulk from Contenti; high quality Bits that will cut resin/plastic/metal like butter.

4) I have a local Surplus Store that carries all manner of odds-and-ends; the selection is vast and too lengthy to list here. Needless to say, I found these at said shop. They are Dental Drill Bits, and they are some really useful Bits. I like basing with natural stone, and these Bits can easily drill holes clean through stone so I can pin a model in place. They are also excellent in a rotary tool (Dremel); it takes a firm grip and a steady hand, but you can carve, hollow, and shape wonderfully with these. The larger bit to the right is used for the same; its larger shape is perfect for hollowing out shoulder pads and larger objects.

5) And that brings us to some of my favorite little items: Neodymium (Rare Earth) Magnets. I'm tossing them in here because many times you drill holes to mount these little bits of awesome. If you don't already use Rare Earth Magnets, _get some and start_. You don't need to do anything really elaborate to make use of them for basic jobs, and if you get creative then can do all sorts of things. If you plan on getting them to mount bits, wargear, and gubbins for swapping, remember to get extra, and get a few different sizes. Once you start using them they go fast, and you wish you had a bigger one here, or a smaller one there. I get mine from K&J Magnetics, but there are many places to buy online. For $20-$30 you can have all the magnets you'll need for ages.










Good Files are a _must have_ in my books; I swear by Swiss made Grobet Files. Once you use a good quality file you quickly become spoiled and lesser Files don't measure up.

1) Files are cutting tools. They have formed teeth that shave at the material, and if you use a hard wire brush to clean your files you'll dull them quicker. This funny looking round thing is a File Cleaner; made by Alpha Abrasives, I've had it for 10+ years. It's a tough rubber disk with rough texture and it's slightly sticky. Scrub it across a File and it clears out fouling from the teeth better than anything else I've found. Nothing clears Greenstuff out of a File like this little disk.

2) #2 Heavy, #4 Medium, and #6 Fine Half Round Files. Half Round Files have a blade edge that is great fro cleaning mould lines from annoying places like corrugated tubing and vents. Being round on one side, flat on the other, and tapering to a nice point, this file is useful for all sorts of tasks.

3) #0 Heavy, #4 Medium, and #6 Fine Equaling (Rectangle) Files. Great for getting smooth fat surfaces and sharpening up corners. When you want it flat, this will do it.

4) #2 Heavy, #4 Medium, and #6 Fine Round Files. Sometimes, only a Round file will do the job; the Half Round is usually enough, but have a Round file or three is nice. Note how slim and subtle the taper of the file, and how fine the tip (~ 0.5mm). It's really hard to find a really nice Round File like these outside of a Jeweller's Supply Shop.

5) An assortment of Micro Files. Bought from a local Hobby Shop, these are not quite as well made as the larger Files, but sometimes you need something a bit smaller for a tiny job.

6) If I could only pick three Files these would be the three. Top - #4 Half Round for the perfect mix of flat and round with a good bite. Middle - #0 Equaling (Rectangle) for a heavy-duty file that can really chew through material when it's needed. Bottom - #4 Round for when you _need_ a good Round File to get the job done.

7) I've seen crap quality file being sold in Hobby shops and Craft stores that cost almost as much as these Grobet files. These files have perfect edges and corners, a sharp smooth bite, and practically polish the surface while they work. They're more than sharp enough to cleanly file even softer materials (like Greenstuff) without tearing and mangling it. #00 and #0 (Pictured) are very coarse and will chew through material really fast. #2 and #4 (Pictured) are a nice average bite; press lightly and it will polish, press hard and it will remove modest material. #6 (Pictured) are very fine and will polish any surface; they are almost too fine, and clog very quickly. A #0 for heavy work and a #4 for everything else is all you really need. Trust me, these Files are worth the trouble to get, they _almost_ make removing mould lines enjoyable. I *hate* mould lines, and these Files make sure my army has *none*.










I don't sculpt nearly as much as I should. I want to get better and more confident sculpting, and the only way to get better at something is to do it. When I do brave it, these are my tools.

1) Painting Knives, an Art Store staple, come in all shapes and sizes. I used them mostly for mould making but they have a great sharp edge and smooth surface that's great for some jobs.

2) Stainless Steel Sculpting Tools of various shapes and styles. I prefer going to an Art Store to buy my hard Sculpting Tools so I can inspect the quality of the working ends. These kinds of tools come in a wide rage of quality, and it's best to see it before you buy. Good thing is that they are usually cheap, so it's easy to amass a collection over time.

3) Cheap Soft Sculpting Tools with Steel Burnishing tips on the other end. I got these in my search for rubber/soft tipped sculpting tools. Sometimes you want a softer tools to blend the medium you working. These work well, but I use them more for the Steel Burnishing tips now that I have the real deal...

4) These, are called Colour Shapers; they come in many wonderful shapes and sizes. I had the hardest time finding these tools; I kept looking in the sculpting section of Art Stores for 'Clay Shapers', since it seemed like a logical description. I finally found these 'Colour Shapers' in the painting section. They offer a subtle touch when you sculpt, so they don't replace hard tools, they just offer a lighter touch when you want it. Like any tool, they don't make you better at sculpting, they just give you more options and another technique you can use.










Different products for different jobs, all on an handy-dandy working board.

1) A Cutting Board with baking Parchment Paper (check your Grocery Store) taped onto it to help make it non-stick is a great board to work sculpting materials on. Roll, press, sculpt, and do whatever on this and it should peel away easy. Peel off and replace if it get chewed up.

2) Milliput - This product is like clay; you can even use moisture to thin it and make it softer. It's a bit soft and crumbly/flaky to sculpt on its own, but it cures as hard as stone. That's a major advantage when you want very hard sharp details, but it can be a bit brittle. You can find it at any good Hobby Shop.

3) Fimo - A staple of Craft Shops, Fimo is an oven baked plastic clay that is cost effective way to make all sorts of things. Horns, spines, bones, and other quick-to-make mass produced items can be baked up, read to use. There is a small amount of shrinkage when being cured, so don't use it for size sensitive sculpts.

4) Kneadatite (Greenstuff) - The good old standby, Greenstuff is the go-to middle ground. It will cure but a bit of a plastic-y consistency; hard and stiff, but with a bit of flex. Sometimes I will mix a bit of Milliput in with the Greenstuff to counter that flex; the Milliput adds hardness when the blend cures, but it stays tough and not brittle.

5) Kneadatite (Brownstuff) - Cousin of Greenstuff, I've only just got my hands on some of this stuff. It's supposed to cure harder and stiffer than Greenstuff, and should eliminate the need to mix Greenstuff with Milliput. I'll see once I have a project that warrents using it.

6) Instant Putty - I got this along with a restock of Greenstuff and when I got the Brownstuff. I've played with it a bit, and as advertised, it cures _fast_ (under 5 minutes); maybe too fast. I'll have to see what I think of it when I can try it with some press moulds. It cures so fast, that's about all I think it'll work with. Time will tell.










The humble sanding block. Big and small.

1) Anyone can make a Sanding Block with some Sand Paper, a bit of Spray Adhesive, and a heavy block or tile. I like thick tile as a base since it's nice and heavy. I add a but of padding to the bottom to help keep them from slipping. They're so easy to make, might as well have some of different grits.

2) Made by Alpha Abrasives this is a pack of adhesive backed Sand Paper and acrylic sticks you can stick it to. You can use this to make small sanding blocks of exactly the grit you want. Reusable and it comes with plenty of Sand Paper, it's a simple but brilliant idea.










A few more advanced sanding options.

1) These sanding sticks are really useful when you want a softer touch. Perfect for subtle blending and final cleanup. It's really just good sandpaper attached to a styrene stick with some double-sided foam tape, so they are easy enough to make if you want to. It surprising how something simple can be so useful; these sticks are how I clean plastic without taking its hard edge off.

2) I don't use these often, but sometimes a Needle File is good to get in tiny corners or awkward places. Good for taking unwanted glue residue from nooks-and-crannies.

3) If you work on curved surfaces (and I plan to more, in the future) this Sanding Bow can be handy. Since the Sand Paper is a strip held by the metal bow it has lots of give and contours to curved surfaces.

4) Finally, another cost effective tools from Micro-Mark, the Sand-It. This little sanding jig lets you set up a brace at any angle to sand little bits at obscure angles. The Sanding Block is cleverly designed to take four different pieces of Sand Paper; one per side.










Brushes are one of those simple little tools that can be overlooked. Filing and Sanding will always cause some burring, and a good brush is the solution.

1) Metal for metal; A harder Steel Wire Brush for a more aggressive scrub, and a Brass Wire Brush for a softer scrub. When you're working on pewter, wire is the way to go. They work well enough on plastic and resin too, but they can bee too harsh.

2) A good standby is a stiff Toothbrush. If you can find an older 'Hard' style brush like the vintage pink one at the top, all the better. Just get a few brushes with the stiffest bristles you can find. Then, take one and clip the bristles down to give you a more aggressive, but gentle, brush. The Shortened bristles will help it really remove plastic and resin burring, but not harm fine details.

3) Kinda' like the Toothbrush, but bigger. This is a Denture Brush. Nice and large, with a smaller brush on the back, it ha stiff bristle and a nice large handle. Again, get two, and shorten the bristles on one so you can make a stiffer more aggressive brush. I use these all the time while I build to clean and burnish plastic without harming detail.

4) A 2" paint brush I use as a Dusting Brush. It's just a coincidence I started using this brush ages ago to dust and clean my miniatures, but its natural bristles taper to fine points letting it gently scrub even suborn dust off of miniatures. Since the bristles do taper and give, there's no chance of harming details or paint jobs.


And with that, I come to the end of my wall-o'-text-and-pictures on the subject of Tools. This covers most of the common tools I use all the time to build and construct for the hobby. I've got other odds-and-ends, but they're more for specific tasks, and I talk about them when it makes sense.

Ok, thanks for reading (if you made it this far, I commend you), hope it's been useful; as always, comments, questions, musings, are always welcome.


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## Subtle Discord

*Legion Rising - Vacuum Forming Styrene Plastic*

When I started my recent small builds I knew one of them was going to be a Searchlight, and I wanted it to have a curved surface for the lens. When it comes to producing several consistent curved shapes the first thing that comes to my mind is Vacuum Forming. This process is used in all sorts of manufacturing, packaging being one of the most prolific. You know that clear plastic package that keeps your precious new object safe, even from you, as you struggle to open it to get at your prize? Made with Vacuum Formed plastic.

This process can be elaborate, using large equipment to shrink heated plastic sheet over complex shapes and forms, but it can also be done on a much smaller scale that almost anyone can make use of for hobby projects. If all you want to do is make some small objects or shapes, then it is very straight forward process.










A selection of simple objects can easily be made into a Vacuum Forming tool with just a bit of effort.

1) A plastic tub from a local Dollar Store. Any box or chamber with rigid sides and a nice flat bottom will do, really. It just needs to be large enough for your needs, and have enough structure to have some modifications added. Remember that you're going to apply as much suction as you can, so this bx needs to be reasonable stiff. On a related side note: If you get a bin/box with a locking lid you can use it to store all the parts for this contraption when it's not being used.

2) These two white frames are made from a sliding screen frame purchased from a Hardware store, and trimmed down to the size that fits my purpose. An inexpensive sliding screen gives you all the material you need to build several frames if you need/want different sizes for different projects. Try to find a screen that uses metal corner brackets to assemble the frame; they will hold up better to the temperatures you'll be working at. The ones pictured here are plastic which is not ideal, but I find they hold up just fine if it's all you can find.

3) Black Butterfly Clips are used to clamp the frames together around the plastic sheets that will be vacuum formed. A little more on this later.

4) Foam Weather Stripping Tape (again, from the Hardware Store) is used to create a gasket seal for the frames. It's this seal that lets the vacuum do it's work, pulling the soft plastic over the object you're replicating. _Don't skimp_ on this seal; buy the more expensive, _high density_ foam product. (just squeeze the tape through the package to tell the difference) This seal will be exposed to high temperatures, and the cheaper Foam Tape will melt and turn to slag.

5) A look inside the box to show how it was assembled; I used an adhesive called Goop Household to glue the parts together and create a solid seal. It doesn't need to be that pretty, just get the job done. The 'grill' that lets the vacuum do it's thing is made form a section of an old computer case door; any stiff grill with lost of holes will work just fine, weather you make it yourself or source it from somewhere. Finally, a connector was added so that a standard household vacuum can be connected to the entire contraption. Any vacuum cleaner will do, but the stronger the suction, the better the results.

6) The white frames work well as a jig to cut out sheet Styrene plastic to the required size.

7) As mentioned earlier, the black Butterfly Clips are used to clamp the sheet of Styrene plastic in place between the two metal frames. Notice how the Butterfly clips are perfect for the job because you can remove the silver handles once they are in place, so they don't get in the way.










Once you have the Styrene sheet clamped, it's ready to be headed and formed. Preheat your oven to 325°F-to-400°F.

1) Since the heated plastic will droop considerably it needs to be suspended to keep it from touching anything. I've used four heavy glasses that can take the considerable amount of heat that is involved, and placed them on a baking sheet. Remember that these glasses will hold this heat for quite some time after you're done forming plastic; take care handling them after you done.

2) With the Styrene suspended place it all in the oven and wait for the heat to do its thing. Lighter plastic (1mm thick) will work well with 325°F-to-350°F, but heavier plastic (1.5mm+) might need a higher 375°F-to-400°F temperature. Learning just what temperature works best is not an exact science, and something you'll need to experiment with.

_It should go without saying that you will need some form of gloves to protect your hands while working with the heated plastic in the following steps._

After about 2 minutes the Styrene will start to sag; the trick to get the best results is to wait for it to sag twice, as it were. I'll try to explain: The plastic will start to sag (and it's tempting to try to form it with this 'first sag' - be patient) and then it will actually tighten back up ever-so-slightly, before starting a 'second sag' that indicates that the plastic is ready for forming. once it's at this point, turn on your vacuum and get ready to _quickly_ move the plastic...









1) In my case, all I wanted was to replicate these dome-shaped metal disks in Styrene plastic, which is much easier to work with than metal.

2) As mentioned, _quickly_ (and _carefully!_) take the Plastic Frame from the oven and lower it straight down over the Grill in one swift motion; press it firmly into the Foam Tape Gasket to create a seal, and the suction will instantly pull the plastic down and form it around any object sitting on the Grill. I did a few sheets with some other objects (washers, for example) so I will have a good supply of these shapes in future.

3) Here is the final part in use, giving the Searchlight a nice curved surface. I can see myself using these bits for all sorts of things; radar dishes, large optics, vehicle hatches, loud-speakers, etc.. The process is only limited by the size of the box you want to make, and the size of your oven. It could easily be used to make anything from clear canopies for cockpits, to curved armour panels for vehicles, to a thousand other things in between.









And in closing, a little build work unrelated to the above article.

Left: The track links are almost ready for mould making; from there I'll cast-and-assemble them into the required lengths for final kits that fit their respective chassis. Right: Another build I have been struggling with; I want to make a vehicle mount Combi-Melta that makes use of the Combi-Bolter included on the Chaos Accessories sprew. I'm on the right track, but this first attempt is just too tall. Back to the drawing board I guess.

Thanks as always, for reading. I hope some might find it informative. As usual, any comments, questions, or general musing are always welcome.


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## Jacobite

Awesome tut there, I've never thought about vac forming before. Could this be used for shoulder pads or icons?


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## Subtle Discord

Happy to help. To answer, yes, and no. While you could use his method to do simple shapes like clean shoulder pads, it won't replicate fine detail like banding, studs, or rivets. The thickness of the plastic mutes out all of the detail unless it's very thin and not that practical; even then some detail would be lost.

Now, to create a base shape that you can build detail up on is how I'd use it; just like the Searchlight. Form as many base shoulder pads as you want (and they will all be exactly the same perfect shape) and then detail them each how you'd like them. From there you can use them as-is, or cast them to replicate them with high detail.


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## Jacobite

Hmm interesting, I was just thinking it might be an easy alternative to press moulding for DIY chapter symbols and the like.


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## 5tonsledge

:wacko: just creamed my shorts. Damn that is some quality stuff man. Amazing is what you are


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## The_Werewolf_Arngeirr

first off, amazing work, truly stunning.

where are you in canada? Id like to face off against an army of this skillful painting once my dark eldar are brought up to speed, and i find a way to transport them without all my models breaking every time I do


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks as always for the great feedback. Rest assured, there's much more to come.

You and me both Arngeirr; while my core army is close to finished, all painting has ground to a stop since I turned my focus on getting my studio up-and-running. I am determined to finish painting what I plan to play with before I use it. Not really because I mind using unpainted miniatures, but to avoid harming the half finished paint job. Every time I've broken down and played with a half painted miniature in the past, it's all but ruined when I go back to paint it. If it doesn't have varnish on it, I'm not groping it.

That said, I _am_ itching to play, and will be giving my core force some much needed attention soon. I'm in the suburbs of Toronto, in the west end of the city. Sooner-or-later I will be looking for regular games. And on the storage/transport case subject, I might have an idea (the case I use personally) but it's a magnetic case solution that requires a bit of commitment. It's totally worth it, in my opinion, and I plan to do an article on it in the future; I'll see if I can put it together sooner.

And now, on with the feature presentation...

Now I know why I avoided the tank tacks; I knew that, no matter how I went about doing them, they would be a pain in the :cuss. I stared this project with a positive attitude hoping that being able to cast would make it go much faster.









It all started with a simple plan; and after some feedback I chose to use just the Master Links for the entire length.

I kept the moulds very simple for these pieces. The parts are straight forward enough, I hoped they wouldn't pose a problem. After all, I cast large complex pieces with my injection method, these small links can't be that hard, right?









And so began my decent into madness... The links, they taunt me, laughing at me with each bubble they trap.

1) The very first casting looked very promising; the face of the tracks were well formed and clean. It wasn't until I had a closer look...

2) On a related side note, several other parts and moulds are in the works. I need to juggle when I cure moulds in the pressure chamber (it takes over seven hours) so I can also make resin casts. Pictured here are a few new Havoc Launcher mounting plates. The old mould for this part is well past its prime.

3) So, as I said, once I had a closer look at the Track Links I started to see an issue; the dreaded bubbles. It turns out the teeth on these tracks just love to catch large bubbles and hold on to them. Since the parts are so thick the flowing resin passes over the bubbles, instead of forcing them out of the part. _This_ is exactly why I'll be adding a Vacuum Chamber to my studio in the next few weeks. Where my method works well for thinner and larger items, objects like these are better cast under vacuum to pull the bubble out of these stubborn places.

4) But until then, I'll just have to make do with the equipment I have. I've devised a method of manually injecting some resin into the problem prone places, followed by closing the mould and completing the injection. It works much better, but it's still far from perfect. What I can't do with my normal precision, I will complete with volume!









The Rhino Chassis links were much more reliable with my new technique, the 'Raider tracks have been much more stubborn, and slowly driven me to the brink. *Eye twitch... twitch*

The Rhino tracks came together with some effort, but it gave me hope that this wasn't going to be too bad. They are fiddly, but at least they cast somewhat reliably. The Land Raider tracks are just *frustrating*, but I am determined to get this set complete! 









The voices from the warp, they goad me on; they have no sympathies for my trials, the Dark Lords care not for such things.

So, even though they are being a pain, I'm getting them done through brute force. I'm _really_ liking how they are looking so far - soooo Chaos. It's too bad I need to make a fresh set of moulds so I can do the other side; but I think I have some ideas for simple improvements that might help them cast better.

I had hoped to have these done by now, but these technical issues will slow down making the final production moulds by a few days. Beyond that I'm well on the way to have all of the recent builds casting by next week, barring any unforeseen complications. The improved selection and kits will be ready an available at The Dark Works shortly after.


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## Lemmy1916

Astonishing paintjob on all the models! I really admire the "pimp my tank" chaos kits as well! altough they seem a bit baroque to me, wich isn't a bad thing per se. I think elaborate decorations suits some csm legions better than others. And black legion happens to be one  !

+ rep


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## cirs85

I have been thinking of how I wanted to make some chaos tanks, I've seen tuts on making trim. What your doing is awesome, I hate the spikes that make the tanks chaos. Keep up the good work.


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## Subtle Discord

As usual, thanks for the positive feedback; during frustrating builds like these tracks, it really is motivating. Everything is on track (See what I did there? clever, yes/no?) but a little behind schedule. Until I can get at least one more Pressure Chamber up-and-running (very soon) I can get caught in a catch-22 when I need to do casting and make moulds at the same time. With a little juggling I've kept things moving forward and the last new moulds will be done very soon.

I have finally got a Vacuum Chamber in the studio and got it to work right away. It's a very interesting addition to the casting process that took some experimenting to get right, but now that I'm getting the hang of it, I'm very pleased with the results. I'll be doing an article about working with a vacuum at some point in the near future. It's been fun learning the process, and it made it much easier to cast the larger 'Raider Track Links I've been finishing. Speaking of the 'Raider Links...










After some less than enjoyable bench work, the Proditor Pattern Land Raider Track Links are ready for the mould making process.

Everything in these pictures is either held in place with friction, gravity, or poster tack; if any of the fit looks a bit off, it's just because of this temporary fitting. One key point about these kits is that they will require the end builder to remove the small 'key' tabs that are used for the original GW links. It's just easier to remove the hidden tabs then to try and carve out a clean gap in these painstakingly crafted pieces. I would have literally blown a brain-fuse if I happened to ruin a part trying to do it. I completely overlooked them until I had several sections done, and potentially harming them was not a happy consideration at that point.










It's was worth the annoying effort in the end; these tacks really complete the transformation of the GW kit, if I do say so myself.

Where the Vacuum Chamber really helped with the 'Raider Links, it wasn't useful for the smaller Rhino Links. After fighting to get it to work with the vacuum, I ended up going back to pressure only to complete the kit. As tricky as this build was, it really did help me learn some about the limitations of each method (pressure and vacuum) and when to consider using each. Funny how the annoying mistakes usually teach you more then the easy successes.










*To the left:* Satisfaction with a job well done. Yep, these look awesome! *To the right:* Frustration given physical form in resin!


When you're building a prototype it needs to be really close to perfect. It's almost scary just what details will be replicated in the mould; even a trace of my finger print is forever immortalized in the back side of the odd part. So, any flaw that would take longer than a reasonable amount of time to fix was tossed into the rejection pile. So many lost links. *Sniff*

So, the all of the track links are done, and I am currently preparing them for moulds as I write this and also casting fresh pieces for stock before the moulds take over the chamber. The Proditor Vehicle Accessories are half moulded, and I'll show them once the entire kit is complete. They are turning out very well, and the Vacuum Chamber has been key in that success.

But that, as they say, is another story...


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## Subtle Discord

Since the subject came up elsewhere, I figured this would be a good time to revisit a little tutorial about how I do my flat-top rivets. To start I'll say that I plan for all my rivets in my CAD designs; that ensures they will be accurate and well placed. When I use a needle pick to transfer the points of the design that I use to cut out a pattern, I also prick the center of each rivet placement. After using a larger pin to expand the hole I carefully drill each hole as a seat for the rivets I make. Made this way, the rivets are not just glued to the surface, but sit in a seat that keeps them from ever popping off from use.

Now with that said, first up, how the heck do you make *lots* of consistent rivets? Here's what I came up with...









I call it a Razor Rake. By super gluing spacers between several broken down lengths of utility razor, I get a rake of evenly spaced blades.

The plastic spacers combined with the actual thickness of the razor means I get an even spacing to cut uniform rivets. The plastic spacers just need to match the thickness of the styrene I'm working on - 0.4mm in this case. Once placed, the rivets will stand out a razor thickness in height.










Carefully rolling the 'Rake' over a piece of round styrene scores the plastic. Ready for cutting into rivets.

For the first rivet I start just inside the end. The first rivet will be too short to use, but it makes sure all of the following rivets are ready to go. Once I have the first group of lines cut I can place the first blade in the last line as a guide, and score another group of lines. Working that way I can covert long lengths of styrene rod into rivets very quickly.

I don't press hard enough to cut all of the way through in one go. There's two reason for this. First, the rivets will wedge themselves into the Rake; naturally, that's not good. Second, the blade deforms the plastic a bit and keeping the rod as one piece makes the next step possible...










A quick sanding on a fine grit sanding block will remove the minor deformation caused by the Rake.

I just roll the rod under my finger while sliding it carefully back and forth on the 320 grit sanding block pictured. It just takes a few seconds to smooth the rod back down, and the rivets are ready to cut.

The blade can find the scored lines very easily. With a quick rolling chop they each pop off. (Remember to get rid of the stumpy first rivet.) I find it best to carefully place my finger over the blade while I cut, so I can stop the freshly freed rivet from flying away. They get easily lost, as I'm sure you can imagine.

It won't take long before you've got a large pile of rivets ready to be placed. But then you run into the next problem. How the heck do you place that tiny rivet into its tiny hole? It took a bit of trail-and-error to come up with a surprisingly simple solution...










Prefect in its simplicity; by flattening the tip of an old Clay Pick I made a straight forward rivet pressing tool.

The rivets are so light that all you need to do is add a tiny bit of moisture (Read: spit) to the end of the tool, and the rivet will stick just enough to be placed. Carefully align the rivet to the hole, get it as straight as possible, and press gently but firmly. the flat tool applies even pressure, and most times the rivet will pop right into the hole. Most times.

Sometimes they will be stubborn, trying to go in crooked and deforming the rivet in the process. Rather than futz around with a 'bent' rivet, I just disposed of it and get a fresh one to use. They are easy to make, after all. On occasion the hole for the rivet will also be a problem, but a quick 'reshaping' of the hole with a drill bit gets things right. You don't want to drill the hole deeper, just clear out any glue residue - the usual problem I run into.










Once they're in place they just need a bit of clean-up and touch of glue to lock them in place. 8 down, 600+ to go... *Eye-twitch... twitch twitch*

I've become hooked on the pictured sanding sticks made by Alpha Abrasives. Perfect for all sorts of subtle sanding jobs where a file might be too stiff or aggressive; I use one to give the tops of the rivets a light sanding and make sure they are all the same height.

From there I add a tiny dab of Tamiya Extra Thin glue. The brush built into the lid makes it easy to brush the glue around the rivet. It doesn't take much, and it evaporates away into a very clean join, ready to be primed.

Anything as repetitive as rivets will be tedious to do. This process is no different. The build pictured here took over 650 rivets, each drilled and placed just like this. It can be a bit... daunting sometimes, but it's worth it for the final piece. Once you get a feel for the process and get going it actually progresses rather quickly. Here's hoping people find this informative.


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## Dorns Legacy

Totes amazeballs dude these are some of if not THE best tank conversion/addon kits i have ever seen bar non +rep and kudos to you guy.


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## Subtle Discord

I am but a conduit through which the Dark Lords speak... They say I must scribe my trials so that others may learn, be inspired, and perhaps drawn to their cause. My hands are but an extension of the energies made real by the Warp... The Dark Lords gift me these ideas so that I might make them real. It would be blasphemy to turn from such gifts.

*Cough* Errr...

But seriously, thanks for the kind/positive feedback. Much more to come...


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## venomlust

You're an inspiration to all the unholy followers (and craftsmen) out there. There is more information in this thread than I can digest, especially where the tools and such are concerned. It will take me a long time to get through it all!


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## Jacobite

That's a genius idea about the razor saw, I will look into making one. With the holes do you just have a mark on the drill bit so you know how far to drill the hole?


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## Subtle Discord

Since the vast majority of my work is layered up, I just plan for the rivets in the last layer, and drill clean through. But yes, if the material is a thicker single layer I will use a mark on the bit with fine point Sharpie for depth if need be. With practice you don't even need it, you get a feel for drilling a bit shallow and/or use a taller rivet (made with a 0.5-0.75mm spaced Rake) and then file/sand them down to the desired height once they are completely dry.


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## Jacobite

Hmm that's a good point about the layering as rivet's will generally be on a trim or a piece of armour that's "bolted" to the main body. Cheers for reminding me of that!


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## CubanNecktie

Simply great work. Threads like these are the reason we needs hobby forums. You have trimmed years off my hobby path. 

Would you be able to delve a bit into your injection mold creation process? I've seen countless tuts on it, but I like your entire system so far. Also, you should put all these on a blog and I will happily send the link everywhere as the definitive resource on crafting minis from scratch.

Keep it up!


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## The Blighted

This is amazing work


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## Subtle Discord

Message received, I'll get some articles up about my mould making process. I've started a series, but I've learned a lot and added some new equipment to the process, so I'd like to update it from the beginning. This would be as good a time as any, I've been making many moulds the last while. As this post will attest to...

*In his best Eugene Krabs voice* “Prepare yourself for a tale of misery and woe! … And delay that skipping… Pirates don’t skip!”

Sometimes I swear projects have a curse on them. I try to be positive and ignore setbacks, and usually that's more than enough to get me through. Mistakes and challenges happen, after all, so there's really no choice but to deal and figure it out. Then there are those builds that refuse to co-operate, testing my resolve to the very end. Yes, I'm looking at you... track links, oh scourge of my recent existence! Apparently, the Dark Lords have some hidden lessons for me to find in these trials.

Several weeks ago I added a Vacuum Chamber to my growing selection of studio equipment. I had a good theoretical idea of how to use vacuum to help with removing bubbles, but there was a definite learning curve to figuring out how to get the desired results. Since I needed to make tons of individual links for the track sections I was building, I used the build to experiment with the new vacuum process. After all of those cast links (and they were a challenge in themselves), I thought I had it figured out.

Thinking I had the process sorted out, I started making moulds for the Rhino Tracks kit, and with that, the curse started messing with my mind. First, I managed to break the seal for two moulds I was making, and this happened...










I tried to adjust the mould boxes after the rubber was poured, but before it cured. Not a good idea.

Since I thought my plan was sound, I tried to economize my time and make several moulds at once. In an effort to get them all to fit in the Pressure Chamber I shifted the top moulds too much, with no idea that I broke the bottom seal. It wasn't until I opened the chamber that I discovered the mess it created. Lesson 1: If you're not careful, trying to save time can actually cost you time. I was trying to push the limit of the chamber, and now I know better.

Once that issue was sorted out (nothing to do but start the moulds again – this will become a painful trend over the coming weeks) I completed the set and got to work casting; and that's when my inexperience with vacuum casting came back to bite me.










When vacuum degassing, vents to let the expanding air escape are critical to the process.

I was trying to avoid gates/vents where I could, since more gates/vents equals more cleanup during assembly. These parts are reasonably small, so I assumed a vent on every-other-link would be enough. I was almost right... but almost isn't good enough in this case. The parts would cast (almost) perfectly, but small flaws keep appearing very consistently in every link that doesn't have a proper vent. I tried to modify the moulds by hand cutting some extra vents, but unfortunately it didn't work. Lesson 2: When in doubt, take the extra time to do a single test mould before committing to a larger set of moulds. I assumed this mould setup would work. Baaad assumption! *Hits assumption with a rolled up magazine*

Unfortunately, the vent issue only became really apparent after I had already started the moulds for the Land Raider Track Links. After seeing the problems with the Rhino Track casts, I knew the same issue would appear in Land Raider Tracks if I finished the moulds. So, I returned to the prototypes and added more gates/vents before re-starting the moulds.










Lesson 3: Dropping an uncured mould is bad. 'Nuff said?

Good luck cleaning up a sloppy mess like this while the rubber is still soft. It sticks to everything and smears everywhere. Better to just let the rubber cure, and peel it up later; and this is exactly what I did. While not really hard to re-make, naturally, the waste sucks.










Success! The added gates/vents did the trick, and the parts are now casting with virtually no flaws.

I'll be doing a much more elaborate article on using Vacuum during resin casting in the future. But for now, let me just say that once you get all of the variables worked out, the combination of Vacuum and Pressure is amazing for getting near-flawless casts. When done right, the success rate for casts is amazingly high. However, it's not a process that works perfectly for every kind of component, so it's not a 'one size fits all' solution.

The results with the Rhino Tracks were so encouraging that I was positive the Land Raider Tracks were going to cast just as well. I had taken the time to add the extra vents, after all. Well, it turned out there was another unexpected twist to be dealt with.










Just when I thought I had it all worked out, this strange problem with bubbles cropped up.

Lesson 4: Different components need different vent considerations; not all parts will cast the same, even if they are similar. The Land Raider tracks are a perfect example; all of the longer lengths of assembled links cast perfectly almost every time, but the single links keep trapping bubbles in the 'teeth' of the links. I'm not totally sure what's happening in this case. The parts are similar, so why is there an issue with only the single links? For some reason their size seems to cause bubbles to get really trapped in the 'teeth' with no chance to vent out. Whatever the cause, there was too many flawed casts for me to use these moulds. *Mutters a harsh curse under his breath* All of this would almost be comical at this point, if it wasn't such a waste of labour and materials.










Third time's the charm! With some final changes the newest moulds are finally casting really well.

Ok, so now for the light at the end of the tunnel. The track moulds have finally been completely finished, and they are all casting very well. Curse lifted… I hope. The accessories are catching up now that the tracks are sorted out.










Some successful casts up top; and a size comparison on the bottom.

Again, I’ll talk more about Vacuum Casting a little later. (I’ve already created a larger-than-expected wall-o’-text) It adds a layer of labour to the production, but also opens the door to an improved process for certain objects. If they are the right size and you can add a moderate vent, they will likely cast very well with this method. The search lights and smoke launchers are a good example. Two Dirge Casters, the vehicle Bolter ammo drums, and a few other bits-and-pieces are in the works. Such as…










Another example of a part that will cast much easier using vacuum during the process.

After kit-bashing an Auto-Cannon a looong time ago, some dark creature whispered to me from the Warp, telling me that I could make a bit to the same job in one step. It seems the dark entity was correct. It still needs some more detailing, but the idea is there.

So, for anyone who has shown interest, The Dark Works will be getting an update very soon with everything pictured, and a few other bits. I hope it’s been worth the wait. I can’t say I enjoy the process when it’s this stubborn, but I always like seeing it come together in the end. You defiantly learn more from your mistakes, and I’ve learned a ton that I’ll be taking forward.

More to come…


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## Jacobite

Very interesting to see your trails and tribulations around casting, it's something that's not touched on openly too much by the community in general for obvious reasons. Are you keeping the miss-casts for personal use or have you just binned them?


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## Subtle Discord

Normally, major mistakes are rare, so many times they don't get documented becuase they get overlooked in the rush to get things done. But this time there were so many problems one-after-another, it seemd a good idea to make an article about it. But also, this is the overall philosophy I've choosen for my studio; I am a firm believer in several things that others might not agree with.


Information should be shared, not hoarded and kept secret. Processes generally advance and improve much slower if they are kept secret; the power of the masses to consider and inovate new ideas is almost endless. Some may say, "Why would someone pay you to do this if you show them how to do it themselves?" and there's a grain of truth in that. But, knowing how to do something, and actually having the skills, time, and willingness, to do something are very different things, so I'm not too worried about sabotaging myself.


I try to show the good, the bad, and the ugly. While successes are great, and it's very helpful to see how to do things correctly, many times the best lessons are taught through mistakes. Not only does this show what pitfalls to avoid, but it gives people a true sense of just what it takes to do the things I do. Sometimes, if you don't have a deeper understanding of everything involved (good and bad) a process might seem almost effortless. Realistic expectations are good things.


As for miss-casts, I keep the 'almost good enough' casts for personal use, and the completely worthless ones are tossed in the trash. The rest get placed in a reject bin for later consideration. Most are too flawed to invest a lot of time trying to make them usable for their intended purpose, (better to just cast a new one, really) but they might have areas with details that can be cut free, cleaned up, and used in some other way. My current plan is to use these parts to help build shrines and intallations devoted to Chaos. I might also be building some larger scratch-build projects that these parts can be incorperated into.


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## imm0rtal reaper

This is really excellent work. Really interesting to see your casting process too. Keep it up!


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## imm0rtal reaper

This is really excellent work. Really interesting to see your casting process too. Keep it up!


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## Subtle Discord

*~ 2-Part Mould Making ~ Part 1*

*~ 2-Part Mould Making ~ Part 1* (Again, how I do it, at least. I hope you like to read... this is just the beginning)

 *1-Part *vs.* Split *vs.* 2-Part* ~ *Fight!* For anyone interested I'll explain the difference... (Note: Everything I'm doing is self-taught, if anyone has any input for process or technique, I'm eager to hear it.)

*1-Part Mould:* If you have an object with a flat back (my Trim Kit parts being a perfect example) a 1-part Mould can be a perfect simple solution. Just mount the object on a flat surface or slab of plasticine, build a mould box around the object, and pour a slab of rubber over/around the item. Once cured and the prototype is remove, you'll have a mould that is gravity fed. Read: gravity pulls/holds the resin into the mould.

*Pros*: _Simple to make, simple to use._ Shallow/short objects will work well with this type of mould. If you take the time to poke and prod any trapped bubbles with a toothpick you can even manually remove most bubbles by hand. With slower kicking resin you'll have plenty of time to get a casting 'just right', and you don't need to invest in a Pressure Chamber or anything more than some basic mould making tools and materials. Perfect for someone who just want to make a few of some creation/s.

*Cons*: _Slow and messy to use, and more limited in the objects it can reproduce._ If the object is somewhat complex you need to slowly pour/inject 'just the right amount' of resin into the entire void. Then you need to go around and carefully remove bubbles. If you're just making a few of something for personal use, this is fine; if you're making lots of something, that's far too much labour-per-item. You also need to find a way to flatten the back of the resin (surface tension will make the resin back want to 'curve'). Messy option 1; use a flat object lubed with mould release as a second half of the mould and lay it over the poured object. This usually causes some excess resin to squish out, and makes tons of flash. Messy option 2: 'Skim' or scrap the liquid resin to level the back. Not only is this messy, you can still have surface tension problems. Messy option 3; Pour a little extra into the mould to make the part bulge a bit, and remove that with aggressive sanding after it’s cured. Lots of extra work, and so... much... dust... 'Nuff said?

*Split Mould:* This type of mould is a lot like a 1-part mould, but for objects that are much larger and complex. You setup the prototype and pour a large slab of rubber over/around the object. Once the rubber has cured the prototype will need to be _carefully_ cut free (Read: split) from the center of the rubber block. When you start getting into objects this large and/or complex you usually need to start considering how to deal with bubbles in places you can't even see. Again, if you're just making a few copies of an object, it may be fine to just fill and repair the bubbles each time, but it adds significantly to the labour-per-piece.

*Pros*: _Simple to make*, simple to use, and works well with Vacuum degassing._ *Once you learn how to cut a prototype free from the rubber (this does take practice to do really well) this is an easier way to make a more complex mould. Pouring the rubber is simple, since it's usually a top down gravity fed mould with a single gate/vent. Since you don't need to set up for a second half (cutting the mould open creates the two halves) all you need is a prototype with a nice large pour gate, maybe some simple venting, and pour a block of rubber around it. Vacuum degassing will cause bubbles to 'boil out' of the resin rising up-and-out of the object and into the large simple pour gate.

*Cons*: _Mould slip, mould lines, massive pour gates._ Without anything to really lock the split of a Split Mould in place, it can easily misalign and produce a significant mould line or even a bad 'slip'. Slips are when the sides don't even come close to meeting; a bad mould line that is next to impossible to easily remove, usually requiring reconstruction of some sort. I hate all of these issues, so even when I end up doing large gate Vacuum friendly moulds, I will avoid using true Split Moulds. I swear by full 2-part Moulds. And the Pour Gates, _massive_ Pour Gates. Resin _is_ rather inexpensive, but it's still not _free_. Every CC of resin lost in the Gate and Vents could have been used to make more objects. In this case, more and less is always better; more parts, less waste? Yes please!

*2-Part Mould:* These start much like the 1-part mould, but the process follows with a second slab of rubber to make... you guessed it, a second part. This method can make gravity fed moulds, or my preferred, injection filled.

*Pros*: _Control, precision, consistency._ You can control exactly where the mould line runs; along edges, corners, and over easy-to-clean places to avoid detailed places. I *hate* mould lines. I insist on trying to make them easy to get rid of. Also, if you take the time to make many mould 'pins' to lock the mould halves together, with lots of staggered pins (more on that later), the halves of the mould lock together very tightly. I rarely ever have any 'mould slip' and always have reasonable mould lines when I cast thanks to these pins; I lose many many more parts to bad bubbles and voids than slips. Finally, you also get full control of the channels and gates that you use to inject or feed the mould with resin, and you don't end up with massive Pour Gates and Vents consuming lots of resin, if you do it well.

*Cons*: _These moulds take more labour, skill, and materials to produce._ Not only does each mould need to essentially cure twice (once per half), anything other than a flat backed object takes more time and skill to make the mould. Plasticine is your friend when making a 2-part mould; it's not only used as a base on all of the moulds, but also essential filler for more complex parts. It can take many hours just to build the plasticine to occupy the negative space that's required for complex objects, but the resulting flexibility you get in the mould is worth the time.

For me, 2-part moulds produce excellent reproductions with virtually no mould lines and only a bit of flash. They also waste less since you don't need a large pour gate like the Split Mould method. The amazing quality of the reproductions is well worth the effort, if you ask me.

Ok with that wall-o-text done... on to process! First, a few key tools and materials you'll need for this method.



 Lego, lots of Lego. (Mega Blocks also work well) Hands-down this is one of the most straight forward materials for making mould boxes. Modular, endlessly reusable, and prolific, Lego lets you make any shape or size mould box you need. Lots of 2x4 blocks are perfect.
 Plasticine. The same stuff you played with in school, Van Aken Plasticine can be found a most craft and hobby stores. You can even pick your favorite colour.
 A Rolling Board. I've taped down a square of Parchment Paper to a cutting board for this task. Parchment is use the world over as a non-stick surface for all manner of jobs. You can find it at most grocery stores.
 A Rolling Tool. A proper rolling pin is fine, but I make due just fine with a short length of rigid PVC-like tube.
 Spacers. Just some thin strips of wood that are even and about 1cm thick. This will let you roll an even slab of plasticine.
 A poking Tool. To errrr... poke, with.  More specifically, to poke mould pin holes; but more on that shortly.
 A scraping tool. A long tipped painting knife is perfect.
 A Long Spatula. I use an icing spatula for mixing the rubber, to be more specific. But a few Spatulas for scraping rubber off tools and out of mixing cups is a good thing.
 A Strong Mixing Stick. Always mix your rubber well before you pour it. Unmixed rubber will take much longer to cure, or not cure properly at all.
 Mould Release Spray. Prototype parts will generally pull free of the rubber without Release Spray, but the mould halves _can_ be almost impossible to pull apart without some spray.
 Gloves and Safety Glasses. Rubber is sticky and doesn't wash off; wear gloves and older cloths or an apron. Also, the last thing you want to do is get a splatter of it in your eye/s. Slips do happen sometimes; always wear goggles when mixing and working with the rubber.
 Lots of Paper Towel. When working with RTV Rubber and Resin you’ll always need to have some towels to wipe up sticky messes. As a general side note, drop cloths and other ‘keep it clean’ considerations should be made when doing these processes. Drips, drops, spills, and all manner of things can go awry. (I once flung an open bottle of liquid plastic across the room, due to a heavy-handed slip of the hand) Be careful, protect your work area, and yourself.
 









First you need a slab of Plasticine that is smooth, even and large enough. Also, a mould box of Lego to fit the part.

Use the strips of wood (or other objects) Spacers on either side of the Plasticine while you roll it out. Rotate it as you go to try and get the shape you'll need. There's no problem trimming sides down and attaching them to corners to get rid of an inevitable rounding you'll get while rolling. Just blend the seam a bit with your finger, and roll them together. The Plasticine is so dense that air trapped in and under it is not affected by the Pressure Chamber. You just need a smooth flat top to mount your prototype.

Once you've got a large slab, make sure it's big enough to reach all the corners of your Mould Box. How deep the Box is will naturally depend on the object. This is a shallow trim bit, so three Lego blocks is more than deep enough.

When making the Box around the object, always remember to give the item plenty of room. You want nice thick walls of at least 1cm around the object. The thicker the mould, the less chance of warping when casting. In some cases this will mean moulds will be massive blocks, but with the right rubber, and planning in the mould, it will last long enough to offset the modest extra cost.










Just place the object lightly to use it for reference. Here's where to Poking Tool comes into play.

With a light press on the Mould Box you can get an outline to use for reference. Trim off excess Plasticine and place the prototype as a guide while you press the voids into the Plasticine that will become the locking pins. All I use is a simple rod of metal with a mark to keep them all about the same depth. You want them somewhat thin (so you can fit more) and rather deep so the really lock tight with the other half of the mould. I start with the corners along the outside edge, then add pins as evenly spaced as I can manage. Follow the Lego pattern in the Plasticine to help with the spacing.

Again, more pins = tighter locking mould. And don't worry if the Plasticine puckers a little where you press these pins in; as long as the prototype has good contact with the Plasticine base that's all that matters. You want a clean mould, but the Plasticine doesn't need to be flawless.










With the rows of staggered locking pins in place, the Mould Box gets pressed into the Plasticine base.

I stagger the pins to get as much fit as possible, and have them as close to the object as I dare. I want the mould to have no choice but relax to a perfect fit every time, and this many pins does that.

With a firm press around the edge the Mould Box is sunk ever-so-slightly into the Plasticine to create a seal. Take extra care that the corners are getting a good seal. You can use a tool to press along the outside edge of the Plasticine and help make sure the seal is tight. The odd tiny slow leak will happen, but they stop as the rubber thickens while curing, and just create a little rubber blob to remove.

Naturally, the prototype is also pressed down to stick to the Plasticine at this point. You want it to stick to the slab, but not really sink into it. A light but firm press is usually more than enough to get the part locked in place, but sometimes a spray of Mould Release will help a part stick. It tends to soften the Plasticine ever-so-slightly, before evaporating.










Now the Scraping Tool (Painting Knife in my case, but anything similar will do) is used to free the entire contraption from the board.

The Parchment Paper will help considerably when trying to get this off the board. It's a little tricky even with paper; work your way around the Plasticine and gently lift the entire piece as you go. You want to keep the Mould Box in place, so take your time. Without the paper the slab with be almost glued to most boards. Pressing the pins really bonds the Plasticine down, and you usually warp the mould when you're trying to lift it. Do yourself a favor and get some Parchment Paper. It's at your local Grocers, right by the wax paper, plastic wrap, foil, etc..










Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) Rubber, Goggles, Gloves, and a strong Paint Brush Handle as a Mixing Stick.

I'm using Smooth-On products, but there are many other brands. In this case Smooth-On Mold Star 30. This RTV Rubber flows very smooth, Pressure Casts perfectly, and is surprisingly tough yet very flexible. It is also very stiff in a good way, and doesn't need mould boxes to help it keep proper shape. A good thick mould of this makes *exact* copies of even the most delicate objects.

Gloves and Goggles should go without saying. Again, this stuff can be messy, you don't want it on your hands, and the last thing you want is an accidental flick of it in the eye. You might even consider an apron or coat to protect clothes; or just wear work clothes that you don't mind getting rubber/resin on. You can't plan for accidents or slips, so be prepared.

I'm trying to find something better, but for now the Paint Brush Handel is doing fine as a mixer. The chemicals in rubber will settle and make it act very strange if you don't mix them up before you pour, so make sure you mix them well.










No super exact measuring needed, just a simple 50/50 mix and it's good to go.

Use a spatula to to scrape as much of the Part A cup into the Part B. With this product Part A flows much faster/easier than Part B, so I pour it first. Don't worry if you can't get every last drop out of the cup, just try to get as much as you can. I then start with the Mixing Stick to get the blend of A and B started.










Now I switch to a long Spatula to mix, scraping the sides, corners, and bottom carefully.

The mix needs to be complete. Any poorly mixed rubber will make a soft spot in the mould. So you need to take time and care to scrape the sides of the container, and be sure to get it mixed out of the corners and off of the bottom of the cup. The RTV rubber cures very slowly, so you have a lot of time to work with it. Make sure the mix is very complete for the best results. Using cups that you can see through helps considerably, since you can actually see if the mix is compete and consistent with no streaks.










I use an up-side-down cake pan as a base for my moulds; it's stiff, fits the Pressure Chamber perfectly, and has a useful non-stick coating.

With the RTV rubber mixed, I let it sit for a few minutes to let the larger bubbles rise up and out. A quick blow on the surface will make the bubbles pop. Mixing will inevitably add lots of tiny bubbles to the rubber. Curing it under pressure will make them all completely vanish, but I give larger bubbles as much chance as I can to rise out.

Pour slowly from one corner of the mould; let the RTV rubber slowly creep over the part. Again this minimizes the chance of trapping air bubbles. But even if a small one does get caught, the Pressure Chamber cure will get it.










Lego is also great because you can build stilts for extra moulds. This time I cured a second mould stacked on top of the stilts.

Once it's in the Pressure Chamber I make sure it's very level. Liquids will always settle flat, so leveling the mould never hurts. In this case it's even more important. With my Trim parts I need to clamp the moulds in simple Mould Boxes to get good results. If the mould is perfectly level, it will clamp better at casting time.

With that, I seal the mould up in the Chamber, and apply 50+PSI of pressure during the 7 hour cure time.

Well then... this has been quite the wall-o-text, and this is just one half of a _simple_ 2-part mould. Granted, the first half of the process is more involved, and takes more time and effort. Part 2 will be shorter, since the second half of the mould can use this first half as a base.

Thanks for reading; I hope it's been interesting.


----------



## Dakingofchaos

Very interesting, nice log and nice tutorial


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## Mossy Toes

Pro as hell. You have mad skills and dedication, Subtle, and have my admiration for it.

I also have bemoaned the fact that the only CSM aspect to their tanks are racks of spikes that break off in transit, and that they're otherwise essentially loyalist kits. This solution represents a whole lot more work than I could expect myself to put in, but if you're going to be doing the legwork... well, I might have to look long and hard at your store, there.

I'm also a bit proud to have pulled a similar heavy bolter -> autocannon kitbash, though I've mostly used reaper autocannon front halves.

Fantastic work here. I can't congratulate you on the quality you've achieved here highly enough.


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks, as always, for the the kind words and positive feedback. It's the reception as a whole that I've been getting from the community that has really fueled me to try to push my work to the next level and see if a studio can actually become real. I've found such an enjoyment out of it all that I really want to make this a livelihood; my choice to start studying for a bachelors degree in Industrial Design is in no small part due to my obsession with creating and building for this hobby.*

~ 2-Part Mould Making ~ Part 2*









After 7+ hours of curing under 50+PSI of pressure the rubber as close to perfect as you can get.

Now that the RTV rubber is solid and locked in place it's as easy as flipping the Mould Box and peeling the Plasticine away. Sometimes the pressure has a way of forcing rubber under the piece in a few places, but that can be cleaned up; I'll show some of that next... 









After removing the Plasticine it's time for some cleanup.

It's not uncommon for the odd seam to leak a little. The rubber gets thick enough to stop flowing in the first hour or so in the Pressure Chamber, so it's not enough to be a problem but it needs to be cleaned up at this point. Note: If you are not careful handling your mould boxes you can break the seal it has with the Plasticine. This can cause a large enough leak that will let much more of the rubber ooze out before curing.

Also, a few spots usually get a bit of rubber forced under by the pressure. It's usually a thin film that can be easily trimmed away. A fresh #11 scalpel blade is my go to favorite for this job, but it's my favorite blade for almost everything. Carefully cut along the edge of the object and use a set of tweezers to pick and peel away the unwanted rubber. 










After cleanup it's a simple matter of building up the Lego to create a box for the second half of the mould.

With the walls built up there are two final steps before pouring the second half of the mould. First, input/output gates need to be attached to the sprew. These will pass right through the second half of the mould that is about to be poured. Once they're glued in place the entire cavity is sprayed liberally with some Mould Release. Be sure to spray the rubber areas well; note enough Mould Release will make the two halves of the mould stick together, and very hard to split apart.









Just like the first half of the mould, an even smooth pour starting in one corner is all that's needed.

Just like before, once I have the moulds poured I stack them up before returning them to the Pressure Chamber for the second high pressure curing.









Now it’s time to dismantle the Lego Mould Box and reveal the newly completed mould.

As Lego blocks are pulled away each of the seams will leave thin flash. It likes to stick to the Lego, but it peels away very easily; it’s just a bit fiddly and annoying, really. Once all of the Lego is gone it’s simple to pick this flash away by hand.









Now the Prototype needs to be freed from the new 2-Part Mould.

The Mould Release spray used earlier will help the two parts split apart. The Pins can be a bit stubborn at this point, as they each pop free for the first time. Working slowly around the part you can open the entire seam. From there just peel the mould open.









A press on the Inlet/Outlet Gates should push the Prototype away from the mould.

Slip the Prototype free and the mould is ready to use. With the pressure during curing, the RTV rubber has been formed flawlessly. Even the shine left from the glue I used during the build can be seen in the mould surface - amazing.

Now, since I created this article I’ve done many more moulds (most successful, several others… not so much







) And I figured it would be a good spot to show how this method can be taken to do larger and more complex objects. Plasticine is an excellent base and temporary filler and it can be used suspend complex objects.









It’s all in the layering; build a base slab, and place your prototypes on shelves made from plasticine.


It takes some practice, and a willingness to cut certain slabs several times until the correct shape is achieved; but fitting the object like this will let you completely control where the mould split will be. In this case I get it along the outside edge where it will be very easy to clean. Any major overhangs that could grab at the second half of the mould are filled with plasticine, and will be removed and cleaned in the next step. Getting the seal of the component to the plasticine is the trickiest part at this point. A little Mould Release brushed on along the seam can help. Getting it as clean as possible will make for clean mould lines that are easier to remove from the final resin casts.









After pouring and curing the first half, just like the simpler flat-back mould, remove the plasticine and clean things up.

Building the plasticine up is more complex in this case, but taking it out is the same principle. Getting the ‘stump’ of plasticine out can be a bit of a pin, but once it starts it usually rolls out as pictured. Traces of plasticine in nooks-and-crannies can be cleaned out with rubbing alcohol and/or Mould Release. As before, some rubber will get forced under the parts in a few places, they will need to be cleaned up. Beyond that, the Mould Box is built up again, injection vents are added, everything is sprayed with Mould Release, and the parts are ready for the pouring of the second half of this mould.

De-moulding parts from moulds like this becomes more difficult; shapes like these like to bent and warp as you try to free it from the mould. So just how complex they can get is somewhat limited, but they can easily be large enough for most war-gaming model needs.

So, that's it for now. Any questions, comments, ideas, or other general musings are always welcome.

Up next... I have no idea... But I'm sure I'll come up with a little something.

Thanks for reading.


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## Loli

Merciful mother of God this is beautiful.


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## Jacobite

Thanks for putting up something like this (as a cheeky side note would you consider putting it in the tutorials section). As I've said before it's something that's not commonly shown on forums such as ours due to fear of GW legal. One question with the lego mould box, would it possibly be worth having some pre built and glued lego mould boxes sitting there ready to go? Would that speed the process up or do you need the lego blocks to be able to be individually removed?

Also is there any hard and fast rule you use for judging how big the vents need to be?


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## Subtle Discord

The flexibility afforded by using the Lego loose is just too useful. The parts I make can range in size and dimension, so I would have a hard time choosing 'standard' sections. For the extra few minutes it takes to remove the blocks one time, I'll take the added flexibility.

Vents change in size based on what they'll be doing. Smaller vents will just let a bit of air escape/through and won't really be for moving resin to fill a void. Medium vents are large enough to take fast flowing resin and usually connect larger objects; these are what feed most objects to fill them. Larger vents are either for a large syringe used to inject resin into the mould, or as a large gate to let venting gas escape during vacuum casting.

The two biggest problems I run into are vents/gates that are a bit too small to take the force of the injection (resulting in bad flash). Vents at least as large as the syringe opening are the best solution, and/or slowing down the injection speed.

Second is having vents that are too small during vacuum de-gassing. If they are too small the surface tension of the bubbles locks them in the vent and stops other bubbles from escaping. Larger vents are the key; I've found ~2mmx2mm vents work very well.

As with many things, there is potential for doing the right and wrong thing. Nothing I've shown is really much more than distilling the information that I've gotten from a few sources online (Some notes on Resin Casting and SmoothOn were two key sites) and combining it with my own real-world experiences. Really, _Some notes on Resin Casting_ is the inspiration for my entire process, but I've adapted it to better suit my studio.

As a designer who is trying to make an income with my work I have a real respect for Intellectual Property. I take great care to create everything I make to respect GWs IP; I conceive and fabricate everything that I cast in resin. Nothing is made from an outside source of any kind, as it should be. I'll hope that others have the same scruples and use these amazing materials and useful processes to make all manner of wonderful war-gaming goodness.


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## Subtle Discord

To get away from casting and moulds for a moment, I figured it might be interesting to show a bit of what keeps me away from my studio during the Fall and Winter months. In this case, it fits right in with miniatures and gaming, so it seemed a good subject for a small distraction post.

I've mentioned on occasion that I have recently returned to school to study for a bachelor’s degree in Industrial Design; and by ‘study’, I mean draw and build, draw and build, draw and build some more… then start again. My choice in field of study is in no small part due to the war-gaming hobby and everything that comes with collecting, building, and painting. The response to my work from the community in general told me I needed to take myself seriously, and go for it. If I can do this in my basement, what could I do in a larger industry setting?

My direct goal isn’t to become a miniature designer necessarily, but I have several more years of school to figure out where I fit and what I want to do. That said, I’ll be bring all of the skills, equipment, and process that I can into my modest studio and the kits I’ll produce over the coming weeks, months, years. Huh… that’s almost a paradox. Oh well, such things happen when you’re fueled by the Warp.

So, while many of the projects I have done (and will do) have limitations on what I can choose to create, sometimes we get freedom to make larger choices in form and function. I was flipping through some older photos and a project from last year came up; we were tasked with making a Carryall for a modest selection of items important to a task. My brain immediately set on a case for miniature painting supplies…









The construction had to be made mostly of paper; almost everything is built from Posterboard, Cardboard, and Mayfair paper.








The hinges, swing arms, drawer slide, and magnetized latch are the only parts made from plastic, so that those parts would be strong enough.








I had the option of building to a smaller scale, so I could have made the build easier; but if I was going to make this, I wanted to be able to use it in the end.

The paper plastic combination in the construction makes the build a bit fragile, but it still functions well to keep all of the most needed painting supplies in one place. I can close it all up and tuck it way if I need the desk space, or if I want to move my painting location temporarily. Maybe someday I’ll improve the design (it really deserves a good handle of some sort) and try my hand at making it from plastic and metal.


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## Jacobite

That's made just out paper and plastic? Bloody hell! Have you thought about maybe 3d printing it or something?


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## Subtle Discord

No rest for the weary, no sleep for the wicked. Been juggling quite a bit the last while and sadly the studio time has had to suffer for it. That said, I've finally got the last bits done for the first Accessories Kit, so here's a quick update...









A few extra details and some rivets finish up the linked-Bolter Ammo Drums.

I wanted to keep this more simple and neutral; it's easy to clutter something so small. I'm happy with the straight forward look it has, and there's nothing stopping me from revisiting this bit and making variations.









After a few failed attempts, the last bit in the selection finally took form, the Dirge Caster.

As I built these parts I kept thinking I'd do something more elaborate, but as the layers came together the clean vox-grill look with a single high frequency satellite speaker didn't seem to need more, in my humble opinion. By using the same curved base part that I used in the Searchlight, the parts share a nice cohesive form with the rest of the kit.

Moulds are curing as I write this, and the first casts of these final bits should be done in the next few days. If all goes as planned I'll sit down this weekend and update The Dark Works; everything shown the last while should be available next week.

I've got a few more ideas and projects bouncing around inside my head, but that's another story for another day. Must... not... write... wall... of... text.


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## Subtle Discord

*A Late Night Update...*

All work and no play makes Subtle go something something...

All work and no play makes Subtle go something something...

All work and no play makes Subtle go something something...

All work and no play makes Subtle go..

... go crazy?

Don't mind if I do! *Blragh gigergle splat bletch*

Errr... Studies have kept me quite busy but I finally found time to get all of the background work done, so just a quick late night post to celebrate The Dark Works waking from its slumber...

















Something old, something new; pictures of the older kits mixed with the new Vehicle Accessories and Tracks.

The new kits are finally in proper production, and looking really good, if I do say so myself. With these smaller kits I can now offer a better selection of bundles along with single kits. I might simplify the selection in the future, but for now I think choice is good.

More coming soon (I hope) but for now, sleep ways is right ways. Thanks as always for past and future support of my work, and the modest studio that is gowning from it.


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## Subtle Discord

My upcoming projects came up in another corner of the web, and I figured it was worth sharing. In the short term an obvious idea bubbled back up in my brain last week...









'Chaos Strong-Point'? Yes, I think that has potential; perhaps with a 'Twin-Linked Reaper Auto-Cannon' upgrade in the future.

These are really early sketches based on GWs kit to get the idea down on paper. I want to do more then just add Trim, I will be changing the form/shape to make it more unique along with other cosmetic changes. But naturally, it will retain the exact same footprint of a GW Defense Line. This project is of a much more realistic scope for the time being, so it should start taking form soon-ish.

I also recently got my hands on a new set of tools for the studio...









Greenstuff Industries ~ Tentacle Maker Tools are a welcome addition to my selection of building paraphernalia; I can't wait to start using them.

With these handy dandy little plates I'll be able to start adding all manner of tentacles, hoses, and pipes to future projects. I'll be sure to do an article-or-two about using them, once I get around to a build that can benefit from them.


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## Jacobite

I have been meaning to get hold of that tentacle maker for pipes so will be interested to see your thoughts on it.


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## Dakingofchaos

Chaos defence line is a good idea, are you on about making it from scratch or as a conversion set for current line?


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## Subtle Discord

First impressions of the Tentacle Makers from GSI are that they work exactly as advertised and produce excellent tubes and tenticles of any diameter; my only complaint is that there needs to be more variety! Three plates just isn't enough variety. I consider several other patterns, if it were my product.

The 'Defense Point' will be a complete build, since it's a straight forward shape. With a Quad-gun it will be hard to do it at GW's price point, but I'll see what I can come up with. It will be heavy on resin for a simple kit, but at least resin is a reasonable material.

All praise be to the winter break! With the Industrial Design program I am enrolled in, the curriculum does not really suit a 'reading week' mid-term. In return we get a longer holiday break. Finally, some wide open studio time! But, before any new build projects for the studio, I'll definitely be spending some time at the painting bench...









With lots of painting projects to choose from, there's no problem filling up the painting bench with plenty of models.

Since I do have a little time to paint, and maybe chip away at an actually finishing an army that can see a table or two , I've gone back to my army list, again. Another shuffle; not the first, won't be the last. When the new Chaos Codex was released I got several of the new kits, which promptly started their wait in the long list of projects to complete. Since I had the model it seemed silly to ignore adding a 'Drake to the new list. It's not really the kind of flyer I'd prefer to add to my list, but you have to work with what you're given.

Most of the model is held together with thread the poster-tack, so at this point the pose is only 80% where it should be. Given how complex and overlapping many of the parts are, I'll be painting many parts before assembly to save my sanity some. Just too many nook-and-crannies to deal with otherwise.









Naturally, I couldn't leave the Heldrake kit stock, it needed some personalization.

Originally I wanted to do a major conversion and scratch build, to create a Heldrake that was closer to a fighter jet with a cockpit and strait lines. I still like the idea, but after dabbling with the kit the idea seemed possible, but very elaborate and involved. Later, I'll consider elaborate and involved (and maybe make a cast-able kit out of the effort), but right now I wanted to make something a little less ambitious. Adding a Magma Cutter nozzle to the mouth (Autocannon removed) for a bit of variety was a start, and Lasher Tendrils added some interest to the tail.









Taking inspiration from a Heldrake conversion by Rumplemaster Miniatures I wanted to give the model a more vertical pose and bring the head forward and down.

In the Rumplemaster conversion they chose to take a more... direct... route to cutting down the chest plate of the Drake and bringing the head forward. I chose to more carefully carve out the center armour plate with a Razor Saw, lower it, and reintegrate it as seamlessly as I could manage. This gave me room to lower the neck, and combined with a small change to the armour plate under the chin I was able to lower the head pose to add to the effect. A little brownstuff and some sanding filled in the old stand hole; I'm planning on adding a rod out of the rear foot as a stand post. I think the final pose will need to wait on the base; maybe I can get something tall enough for the foot to grip for support.

So after I take a little diversion on a few personal projects I'll be turning my gaze back on some studio builds. I want to try to keep painting no matter what, but I still have some build ideas clawing at the back of my brain that want to become real. I can't ignore the whispers from the warp, they keep calling me back to the Storm Eagle. But that, so they say, is another story for another day.


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## zxyogi

:shok: Its one of them there proper TALENTED people :shok:


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## Subtle Discord

*The Heldrake returns, and other musings.*

"Klaatu... verata... n... Necktie. Nectar. Nickel. Noodle. … … It’s definitely an ‘N’ word! … Klaatu… verata… N-*Cough*! … … Ok then. *Takes the book* ... Wait a minute! Everything's cool! … No really, I said the words. I did!"

*A huge portal opens and sucks Subtle out from under his rock, flinging him across several realities*

Thanks _zxyogi_, I do what comes naturally. Trust me, it's a blessing and a curse. Take for example this poor thread, I need to feed it some ration of content to remind it that better times are coming. Naturally, I’ve been very busy, but there are all sorts of things brewing in the background, I can assure you. It may get quiet, but the Basement Troll is always up to something. When we were last visited by our intrepid adventurer, a Heldrake was taking form…









The composition of the model with the base will make it a bit taller than the standard flying stand provided, but not enough to have me worried. It will loom over the army nicely once finished.

I’ve always been a fan of real stone for basing. It’s true that you can get some amazing results from a number of other products and/or techniques, but for me when I want a rock, I use a real rock. In this case, it meant I needed a very large and unique rock, and I’m enough of a collector to have a modest selection. I keep my eye open all the time for unique stones, rocks, and other potential basing materials. Even in a built up city you can find all sorts of interesting textures and objects in your environment; just one small scoop of some crushed gravel from a construction site or playground can provide ‘basing stone’ for years.

One key to working with stone is getting high speed rotary bits that can handle drilling hard rock. Dental drill bits are perfect, but there are many other bits that can handle the job. It’s not always necessary to pin a miniature down but if the only contact point/s with the base are on the stone you’re using, it really is better to drill a hole and pin the model down to the stone for added strength. In the case of the Heldrake, it needed a larger/deeper-than-average post hole for the foot to attach to the base. An extra win-win about using this much real stone on the base it that it is very bottom heavy and stable; there is little chance this model will get knocked over.









Changing the pose exposed too much of the ball-joint that is used to connect the parts; a simple cover up was in order.

It was a simple task to use some half round styrene rod and some of my ever-growing supply of pipes and hoses (Thanks to my GSI Tenticle Makers. Note: v2 coming soon) and give the offending spots a bit of a cover-up. I did file down the top of the sphere a bit before starting, just to lower the layer of pipes and hoses a bit.

















The changes in this kit alter the pose and feel of the model dramatically, but they weren’t all that in depth compared to some of my projects; it came together surprisingly quickly.

 A tip for filling in large holes and gaps like the original flying stand hole in the chest of the Heldrake; work in 2-3 layers. Fill the offending hole about 90% of the way with your preferred epoxy putty, and once that's cured go in with a thinner layer to finish the job. Then file, sand, and smooth the location to blend it away seamlessly.

The ‘Drake even got a good part of its paint job started before my workload forced me to put it aside. It, along with the entire army that will bask in the grim shadow it casts, are all poised to get actually finished come spring time. A few new paints and some Liquid Gold are on order to replace some ancient pots, and they should be just the incentive to get the brush going again.

Now, that’s not to say I don’t have more than a few building plans for The Dark Works. As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to do a counts-as Aegis Defense Line, and it has seen some good progress…









After several iterations, this broad pattern was the final build that really worked well. To take the idea of defensive out of it, I plan to call it a Siege Line.

Obviously, there is still a lot of detailing that needs to be done. Once the main trim and rivets are done I’m going to add some cabling and some kind of Vox grill or screen. I’m still working it out and might do some sketches that I’ll show later. My drawing skills are improving dramatically with the projects I’m doing in college, so it’s only a matter of time before it migrates to my p’logs.









By popular demand, I will be starting work on a complimenting line of Loyalist vehicle kits; this Land Raider pattern is almost ready to start building once the studio wakes from its hibernation.

With this new Land Raider armour pattern I wanted to address one shortcoming of the original Chaos kit; the Sponson on the original kit is ‘locked’ in the front position by the detailing of the pattern. Now, this is my preference, but I can understand only too well that others might want it switched. So, after a bit of tweaking and adjustment, I was able to design a plate that can be swapped to switch the orientation of the Sponson. The layers of styrene that make up the side wall will need to be ever-so-slightly thicker than the current kit, but it won’t have a noticeable impact.

As always, this is only the tip of the iceberg; the voices from the warp are always chattering in my head, giving me ideas and inspiration. There are many other projects under consideration, and with my newly improving drawing skills I hope to be showing all sorts of concept sketches when I return to my studio work with more time.


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## DeathKlokk

When I start yet another CSM project, your kits will be on ALL my vehicles. Stunning, just stunning!


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## Subtle Discord

Well then, if that isn't a vote of confidence, I'm not sure what is. Thanks! I've got no plans on going anywhere, and I've got lots more planned for future kits, so please take your time. I'm sure I'll have some great things to choose from in production whenever you're ready to build.


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## Subtle Discord

Damn you GW! These new Imperial Knights just scream 'Mars Pattern'. Now they've got me wanting one of these models so I can make a 'Lucius Pattern' conversion kit. Like I didn't have enough to deal with, they go and do _this_ to me. _Too... many... ideas..._ *not... enough... time!*


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## Subtle Discord

*1st of the 9th Progress*

++++++++++Scanning …
++++++++++Scanning …
++++++…
++++++++++Interference Level Shift: 1.13 – 0.98 – 0.925
++++++++++Scanning…
+++…
++++++++++Signal Detect…
++++++++++Signal Lock…
++++++++++Transferring…
++++++++++...
++++++…
++++++++++Processing: Decrypt…
+++++…
++++++++++Opening Image Files…
+++++++++...
++++++++++Displaying: Legion Formation Progress – 1st of the 9th Heavy Armour Cavalry
























































++++++++…
++++++++++ Interference Level Shift: 0.925 – 0.90 – 0.875
+++++++++…
++++++++++Communications Protocol Request.
++++...
++++++...
++++++++++Re-establishing Connection...
++++++++++Processing...
+++++++…
++++++++++Stand By…


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## Subtle Discord

*Counts-as Chaos Aegis Defense Line and Quad Gun*

++++++++++Processing: Request…
+++++++…
++++++++++Interference Level Shift: 0.875 – 0.783 – 0.635
++++…
++++++++++Communications Protocol Validate.
++++++++++Signal Lock…
+++++…
++++++++++Connection Established…
++++++++++Transferring…
++++++++++…
++…
++++++++++Processing: Decrypt…
+++++++…
++++++++++Opening Image Files…
++++++++++Opening Transcribe Files…

Praise to you Lord Warmaster. Blessings to the Dark Gods that they have finally seen fit to calm the warp storms and permit us to once again support your efforts. Our Mechanicus have been busy with rites of maintenance and repair in preparation; production has been improved and plans are in place for further expansions and upgrades once the necessary equipment, materials, and labour can be obtained. Your plans shall not go astray.

During our time spent severed by the flares, efforts in exploration of the local system have discovered something unexpected. On the 7th and 9th planets in standard orbit, pieces of ancient structures, shrines, or monoliths were uncovered. Given our proximity to warp space, it is impossible to determine the true age of the artifacts and it is currently unclear who the original creators were. Though reduced to mere fragments of their original form, the shards that remain still emanate energies locked within the material. Our Sorcerers feel there could be much to gain if more shards can be recovered; securing any other fragments or associated artifacts found during your campaign should be a priority.









Objective Markers, made from soapstone originals cast in translucent resin and combined with a flickering LED 'tea light'; a step-by-step article of how these were made, coming soon.

Our Mechanicus are pleased to report that the Tutamen Pattern Siege Shields are complete and ready for manufacture; with the return of large scale material imports, assembly lines are being equipped and will soon be ready for proper production. The design template for a front-line close support anti-air platform is also nearing completion...









Almost ready for production from The Dark Works; Tutamen Pattern Mk.I Siege Wall sections and Morsus Pattern Mk.I Anti-Air Cannon platform.









Started several months ago, the final details and cleanup are done and the Siege Wall prototypes are ready for mould making.

The final build and testing of the Morsus Pattern Cannon will be done soon. The armoured main chassis provides added protection to the control, targeting, and weapon systems. Currently it can mount a single Las'Cannon or twin rotary Auto-Cannons.
























This kit started with a straight forward idea that turned into something a little more elaborate. One more layer of detail and clean up (mostly on the weapons) and this kit will be ready for moulds.

With renewed material supply shipments, construction of current production templates is resuming. Some time will be required to build significant stockpiles ready for transport. Production of new templates will start once assembly lines are online.

An oversight request will follow in a future communication. The Mechanicus have several promising constructs that they wish to develop. They will request your input on their research in an effort to work on projects that will meet with your approval. Details will be provided.

+++++++++Message End…
++…
++++++++++Connection Closed…
+++++…
++++++++++Signal Lock…
+++++…
++++++++++Stand By…
++++…

P.S. My sincere apologies to anyone who may have sent me a message recently and not received a reply. I've been somewhat anti-social recently as I worked on sorting several things out. I will be sitting down to send out many direct messages to inquiring parties over the coming days. Thanks, as always, for your interest and support. More to come.


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## Subtle Discord

*Objective Markers & Void Shield Generator*

Forever lured to distraction by the voices from the Warp, I picked up several LED votive/tea candle lights a while back. The original simple plan was to create Wrecked Vehicle markers by adding blackened Poly-Fil or fake snow fibers to emulate smoke. I've seen it done several times and it's a great way to mark burning wrecks. Naturally, there's nothing stopping me from doing those in the future, but I thought there might be other uses for these cheap little lights.

With my starting army getting ever closer to actually being ready (someday), there is one thing I wish I could have dabbled with before I started painting; in hindsight I wish I had taken the time to use LEDs to light my Rhinos, Predators, and anywhere else I could manage. I'm an all-or-nothing kind of personality (who'd guess that?) and I'd want them in all of the vehicles so I'm no going to start now. As a consolation, I've come to the conclusion that, within reason, I can add lighting to _everything *else.*_ Where I can, I'll add lighting effects to scenery, markers, and counters.

I read once, and I can't even remember where, about someone who went all out and lit a Cites of Death table, and that planted the seed in my mind. I've always wanted to do a city fight table, so it seems a perfect opportunity to give it a try. I'm hoping to even add strategically placed smoke generators that can be triggered to add to the lighting effects. The plan even has a practical angle; it will all make a great backdrop to photograph studio kits in an appropriate setting. But, that's all a story for another day. For now, I started a little more modest...









Soapstone is great for easy shaping and carving, but it's also very fragile; but that's not a problem for this purpose.

Naturally, you don't need to used soapstone, but I had some so it proved perfect for the job. Note the amount of dust that's created cutting up the soapstone; it's fine and light, so take care not to make more mess then needed. After sanding some of the sides smooth, I formed the pieces by chipping and cracking them into shape. It was easy to sketch out some simple patterns on the new surfaces and carve into the stone with my sculpting tools. I made sure to carve the lines nice and deep so they would catch the light well. For future attempts I'll try to take more care and make more intricate carvings.









Time to make quick-and-simple moulds of the original stones so they can be cast in plastic; enter the Instant Mold (IM).

I haven't had need to make press moulds the last while, so this IM has sat idle for quite some time. It's tricky to do 2-sided moulds like the ones I've done, but I wanted both sides of the stone. It took a few tries, but the results were good enough for my needs. I used the small blue pieces (chunks if a cut up pen) to create the pour gate and they were good-to-go. I didn't have enough IM to comfortably make all three, so the last one had to wait.









Time to make some translucent copies with the moulds that can catch the light; next up, Easy Cast and a few simple tools.

Unlike the casting resin I've been using, that cures in 15-45 minutes, Clear Cast takes 24 hours to cure enough to de-mould, and 48+ hours to cure to full hardness. Fine for a few one-off casts, but far too slow if you wanted to make several of something. It is also very sensitive to how it's mixed; if you're just a little off of 50/50 the final object will never harden.

While you want a clear plastic to let the light pass through, if it's too clear the light will pass completely through and the object won't glow as well. To fix this it's a simple matter of making the plastic slightly translucent. Adding a _very tiny_ amount of White acrylic paint to the mix is all that it takes; you don't want too much (not even a full drop, just a dab) or it will start to mute the light. You can also change the colour of paint if you want to alter the colour of the light. Add dab of blue paint in the resin with a yellow light and it will glow green, for example. A green LED would be better, but it will work in pinch.









One translucent copy. Now it just needs some minor modification.

Making the pour gate for the mould the right size lets it fit right over the LED and catch as much light as possible. When hollowing out the center it's best to start with a smaller drill bit and work up to get the hole clean and accurate.









Now to turn it from a chunk of plastic into a shard of some ancient artifact.

It glows well enough without paint, but a layer of white primer will trap and reflect the light within the object. Even if the item is going to be dark like these arcane stones, it's good to start with white to make the glow as bright as you can. It will take many layers to completely block out the light from bleeding through thin spots in the paint. Consider this for the object you might want to create, fine details will be lost by all the layers of paint that will be needed. Slabs of stone with symbols carved in it makes a good choice; the rough stone looks fine with many coats of paint.

Base it up to match your army and it will come down to the final detail layers. I wish they could be a little bit shorter, but with how the internal parts are made in these tea lights, there's no easy way to make it shorter without rebuilding it from scratch. With a battery compartment, a wire, and a tiny switch, it wouldn't be hard to make something closer to a 40mm base it height, but for now the provided form will do fine. In the end it's an Objective Marker, so if it stands a little higher on the table it's not the worst thing. And they are almost 40mm diameter so they're at least a cohesive size.









They glow brightly enough to be very visible in a well lit environment and the flicker adds just a bit of animation to the effect; reminding you to pay attention to them on the table.

After painting the surfaces a strong Black that didn't leak any light, I added bit of Satin Varnish on the exposed clear plastic. This was to ensure there was a surface for the next wash layers to bond better with. To keep things simple I kept the flat surfaces pure Black and painted any exposed rough stone with Fortress Grey. I gave the Grey a wash with Agrax Earthshade, and then set to work with Nuln Oil. I used the Nuln along all of the edges of the Black to mottle and blend the transition between the Grey and the Black, and long all of the glowing edges. By carefully layering up the Nuln Oil along the edges of the Black that met with the glowing lines, the transparent nature of the Nuln Oil wash helps soften the edge so the glow is more intense in the center and fades towards the outside. repeat the process until you have the desired depth.

These little markers turned out really well considering how quickly they came together. They would be interesting to see with a bit more time taken to carve more elaborate symbols, but there's nothing wrong with a simple start. I want to try other ideas, and colours, in the future. Now, speaking of more elaborate, I've had an idea for a lit scenery piece for quite some time; it brings together the ideas of something built for a city fight table, some cool lighting for effect, and a structure that GW recently added to the game - the Void Shield Generator.









Emphasized in college, I did several iterations until I found a form that worked. The 3-sided concept couldn't open, the first 4-sided concept was too large, but the last was perfect.

I hope the fact that it's still just made of cardboard illustrates that this is still just an early scratch build, but really happy with the direction. I've been looking for a reason to put a 3" plasma globe into a piece of scenery for a while now. At first I figured it would be a Chaos portal or shrine (and that idea still has legs, but it will be an 8" globe when I get to it) but the Shield Generator seems like the perfect opportunity. I tried to make a structure that makes sense; a building you can enter at the base and climb an internal ladder to a hatch or door that opens to the battlements. The energy field that is being generated to create the Void Shield is created in the base to be contained and focused by the pillars that will be detailed out to look the part.









It should be simple enough to devise a magnetic clasp that will let the model open for access to the globe for battery swaps.

I managed to find a battery powered globe that's inexpensive ($11 CAD before shipping) that runs on 4 AAAs, but can still plug in when possible. My testing with four 700mAh rechargeable AAA batteries gets about 3 hours 15 minutes of non-stop run time, and the light effect stays strong to the end before turning off all at once. Higher mAh batteries should get more runtime, but I'm not sure just how much. The final build is a little shorter than a GW Bastion, it's footprint is about the same as a Vengeance Weapon Battery, and there's enough room on the battlements for three 40mm bases. Obliterator perch anyone?

Like a few of my ideas right now, they are getting larger and more ambitious and require more consideration. I really like this idea for a kit, but it's size makes it daunting. Like the Stormeagle concepts, the image in my mind is just too good to let go of, so I've been figuring out how the heck I will proceed with these larger ideas. I need to make these things real, if only to shut up the voices from the Warp that coax me on to build and create. Have faith Loyalists, things are in The Works.

I've already created a large enough wall-o'-text-&-photos for today, so I'll save my other ramblings for another time. As always, more to come and comments, questions, critiques, and general banter is always welcome. Thanks for the kind words, encouragement, and feedback.


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## Haskanael

you're making some neat stuff here keep it up, and have a cookie


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## Subtle Discord

*Munches on the cookie happily ~ Subtle likes cookies*


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## Moriouce

Those soapstone-things, wow!


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## neferhet

just wow. high level stuff. amazing!


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## venomlust

Vh78T--ZUxY


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## Tugger

Some wicked stuff bro


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback. I've got some new equipment arriving in the studio today that will take my production to a new level. I'll be sure to do an article, or several, once I'm up-to-speed with my new toys. More to come, to say the least.


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## Kreuger

Looking forward!


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## Archon Grimherald

methinks i shall have to beg the wife for moneys to buy that ageis line you have. and those vehicle kits are stunning i might need some of them. Do you take payment in souls? i have one or two lying around that im not really using


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## Roganzar

All that stuff is freakin' epic!
I love the lit rocks and the really clever, a deceptively simple looking, method for the void generator.


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## Subtle Discord

*Introducing: Servitor Zing*

So, I have/had plans for some more in depth articles that I _really_ want to write, but I'm starting to feel like the white rabbit from _Alice In Wonderland_, frantically bolting forward in search of the rabbit hole, looking at my watch, panicking about being late. There's just never enough time to do everything I want to do; too... many... good... ideas! The damn whispers from the Warp keep speaking to me, and it's only gotten worse lately. (more on that in a moment) Time will have to tell just what I can cram into the schedule; time writing is time taken away from building and casting, and I have so much I want to build and cast! If I could just hide in the Warp now-and-then and get a few extra months, that would be perfect. *Shakes his fist at the fixed linear time stream*

Oh well, I'll make the most with the time I have left before the cruel mistress that is college commandeers my life, and see what I can make real. With my new equipment I'm eager to get as much build time in as I can manage. I has so much potential it's got me rethinking old designs and coming up with all sorts of new ideas and uses. Let me explain... A few months ago my attention was drawn to CNC blade cutters. I had looked at them years ago, but they were either too expensive or unimpressive in what they could do. I'm not cutting shapes for scrap-booking, I need a certain level of precision and total control. Other options come with strings attached; laser cutters and styrene don't like to play together easily and create poison gas, high resolution CNC milling machines are expensive, high-res 3D prototypers are more expensive, and small-scale styrene injection moulding is not 'small'. So, after having my attention brought back to blade cutters, I did some research and became very encouraged with what I was seeing; these are not the cutters of even 3-5 years ago. After lots of reading, and many nights sleeping on it, I finally invested in a KNK Zing Air cutter (aka: Servitor Zing) and my build technique has forever changed...

















CAD Design + Servitor Zing = Loyalist Land Raider kit prototype is well on its way.

I purposely held off this build waiting for this cutter; I wanted to used it as a test to see if the Zing would be up to the task, and it hasn't disappointed. After many years of practice I am confident in my ability to cut accurately by hand; I've received too much good feedback on the quality of my cut work to be completely delusional. (just partially; but that's something else altogether) But, I'm still human and only so precise; there is _*no* way_ I could come close to the accuracy that this cutter can achieve. I'm still climbing the last of the learning curve to get it cutting certain shapes properly, but I think the results are more then promising and speak for themselves. The swapping plate for the sponson/door in particular benefits from the improved accuracy; they line up perfectly.

It's even given me a use for some of my overpriced college textbooks; they make a perfect slab to support the cutting mat as it travels back-and-forth. 

Now, this is a very clean straight line pattern and there's nothing wrong with that, it's very Imperial feeling; but, computer control cutting opens the door to many shapes and concepts that I had little choice but to avoid in the past. Articulate curved lines and arcs? forms that need to be near-100% accurate? Repeating patters that would drive me to madness to cut by hand? Yes please! I'll have some of each! And it's all automated once I've set the Servitor to work, so while it's cutting the parts I can give extra concentration to actually _building_ the part/s. It really is almost like have another pair of hands. It does take some extra effort to turn the CAD designs into a cutting pattern, but it's worth the investment in the end.









Servitor, modify thyself; CAD Design with challenging curved lines + Servitor Zing = Stylish new faceplate for Zing

So, for the sake of experimentation I designed a straightforward Eye of Horus icon that made ample use of nicely curved lines to see what Zing could do. Cutting something like this by hand would be painstakingly slow at best, and down right impossible at worse. Getting the curved lines precise and matching from layer to layer would be completely maddening, to say the least. Now, letting Servitor Zing tackle the problem solves many of the issues with these complex shapes. It does have limitations, since it _is_ a physical blade that is cutting the material, it acts like one; it does deform the plastic a bit as it cuts, and an 'offset' setting is needed to cut clean corners to compensate for the size of the blade. Some shapes need a bit of extra manual cleanup, but nothing any worse then hat I had to do with parts cut by hand.

As always, thanks everyone for your feedback, encouragement, and good will; comments, questions, critiques, and any other musings are _always_ welcome. An extra thanks goes out to the people who have supported my humble studio with purchases. It is all of you who have made it possible for me to take these ideas, make them real, and then take it farther then I ever could have expected. The vast majority of studio profits have been reinvested in the equipment that will help me continue to improve and expand what I do. Not everything is as glamorous as Servitor Zing, but it is all laying the foundation for many more wonderful future plans.

The specter of college *is* looming, but I have _*much* more_ to come over the coming weeks, months, and years. This year I will be starting working with digital creation methods (digital rendering and 3D modeling) and I know it will be what evolves my little studio to the next level. Outsourced rapid prototyping high quality components to add to my building is just around the corner... relativity speaking. 

Thanks for joining me on my journey into the unknown; that first step can be intimidating.


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## DeathKlokk

Pretty slick, wish I had me one of those! 

What thickness of card will it handle?

I love the addition of the eye to the cutter. Great idea! :victory:


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## scscofield

Aye, this is awesome, I also am curious as to how think of a sheet it can handle.

Edit: Also in terms of your vacuum molding using the oven. I had a neighbor that made hobby kits, he had a frame setup that used heat lamps instead. You would slide the plastic into the frame, it was on rails that went up and down. The heat lamp or lamps, would heat the plastic until it sagged. Then he would unclasp the rail and the whole frame holding the plastic would slide down and onto the vacuum grill mold thing.


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks guys for the kind words. This new device really is an evolution for my building method.

I've considered building a more elaborate vacuum-form setup (as you say, they're not _that_ elaborate) and I was even lucky enough to get a large piece of round-punched steel grill for the vac-plate, but I don't do enough of it to warrant the time and effort. If the right project comes along I'll be glad to use it as an excuse to build a new contraption. 

Yep, Servitor Zing is quickly turning into a better-then-expected investment. I'm holding out a final verdict until I've had a chance to run it through it's paces with more complex forms (arrows being a key one) and smaller scale, but so far it's handling what I ask of it like a champ.

You bring up a good question, and one of the main consideration of any cutter; just how thick of material can it handle? The biggest indicator is in the Grams Force that the cutter can apply.

The first machine that got me researching these devices was rated for 300gf cutting. From what I read, it would struggle to cut even 0.5mm plastic, even with several passes.

The Zing is a mid-range machine rated for 750gf cutting and it makes a real difference. It has no problem cutting 0.4mm and 0.5mm plastic with 4-6 passes. Compared to passes 3-4 by hand, it's not bad at all. Combined with almost all-metal construction, wide 14" cutting area, bluetooth connectivity, and even voice control, it's impressing me so far.

Lighter plastics benefit from (or require) the 0.5mm thick mat to mount on for cutting. thicker materials don't _need_ the cutting mat, I'm guessing you could carefully squeeze 2mm plastic in without the mat, maybe even 2.5mm but I wouldn't got farther.

So far the heaviest I've cut is 1mm sheet on the mat (fits snugly in the cutter) with 8 passes, and it takes a bit of firm hand cutting to finish the job. I'd say it's getting 2/3 of the way through. I could do more passes, but I choose to spare the blade/machine the extra strain. Frankly, just having the pattern automatically 'scribed' to the surface is massive labour savings, so I'm more then happy with the results.

KNK (Klic-N-Kut - don't let the name fool you) also has another model called the MAXX that is rated to 1,500gf cutting. With double the power I'm sure it could handle 1mm with several passes, but it also comes at almost double the price point. While not exactly cheap, the Zing seems to be an excellent price-to-performance ratio if it's the kind of device you're interested in.


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## Subtle Discord

A bit of insomnia to fuel a late night sneak peak of the 'Raider on the bench; another round of rivets and some final cleanup and it will be ready for the RTV rubber. Everything is very loosely fit with just a few bits of poster tack for the photos, it looks good here, but will be even better once it's glued down in final resin form.









Land Raider (name to be determined) Mk.II Armour Kit - work in progress.

More to ramble about later, but I wanted to pop this up before I shuffle off. Bedways is rightways now my good droogs, so viddy well, and we'll speak again after some shuteye.


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## elmir

Wow... not a lot else to say. It just looks plain awesome. Better than any of the FW kits if you ask me.


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## whittsy

There are several, several things I'd like to say about all this work, but everyone has already said it all. So I'll say this, or atleast post this:


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## Dakingofchaos

Great ideas and really great result - Hat tip to you sir!


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## Subtle Discord

*A bit if fictional musing*

*Subtle steps out from the shadow cast by college and into the light; he squints and shields his eyes as he adjusts*

Classes are going very well, even if they are completely grueling. Sketching, drawing (so… much… drawing… and… sketching), 3D modeling, more model making, and I’m doing everything I can to get everything I can out of it. Then there’s less enjoyable (Ugh, statistics) but it’s all getting me very eager to get going with my own thing. It’s still a few years off, but what I’m learning really is going to push what I do to a much larger scope and scale then I had ever considered. Keep lurking and you’ll have the inside track on my misadventures. This spring/summer should be fun! *Maniacal laugh*

For the short term, winter break is coming soon and I will be jumping on doing a large casting run in early December, and getting projects on the bench into production. Yes, the new Land Raider kit is at the top of that list. I wish I had time to get something rolling sooner, (itching to build/paint something fierce) but it just isn’t in the cards when classes are on. School is a harsh mistress, but the lessons will pay dividends.

Now, if there’s one thing I can find some time for, it’s a bit of writing. I spend several hours a day on a bus getting to-and-from campus, so why not write some fiction? To mark the 3 year anniversary of the original Legion Rising (started 11-11-11 at The Bolter & Chainsword) I present the first of my Chaos fiction short stories. I’m not sure how often I’ll add to this side of my ever growing alter to Chaos, but I do have plans for other stories. I hope it meets with your approval.

Thanks, as always, to everyone who follows my work, lurking or otherwise. I hope to do nothing but expand and improve on the foundation that you all helped me build. I would never have thought the encouragement and feedback from a WIP thread could generate so much momentum, but here I am, considering nothing but bigger-and-better for the future.


+++​
_Klec knelt low and to the side of the entry way, in a series of fluid motions he affixed his bayonet to his Bolter and drew a second hooked blade from its sheath. He closed his eyes and listened to the Loyalist carefully advancing down the corridor; he visualized the Marine’s motions as they moved, waiting for his moment to strike. There was caution in the Loyalist’s movements and Klec hoped to exploit this with an aggressive strike to start their exchange. Many times a good defensive strategy was not necessary if one made a decisive first strike and quickly laid their opponent low; Klec had claimed several trophies in this way. The Loyalist reached the entry way and paused, surveying the dimly lit room. Klec could practically feel the presence of the Marine through the wall, but he held his attack for a moment longer, waiting for the Loyalist to lift a foot to take their next step…

“Warmaster favor me.” Klec quietly spoke his modest request as he began his attack. His eyes snapped open as he pivoted and rotated on his left foot into the entry way, spinning around to add extra momentum to the first blow. The Loyalist was indeed surprised, but reacted quickly enough to deflect the blow downward; the bayonet missed its mark, skipped down the Marine’s thigh, and managing to jam itself into the gap behind the armour plate that protected the knee. Klec drove his weight forward until he could feel the blade pierce through the seam. In the next motion he shrank back, pulling the blade free in a gush of bio-pneumatic fluid and blood; without hesitation he wheeled back around for another strike with his hooked blade, counting on the shock of the first wound to give him the advantage. Exposing his back a second time was a calculated risk, but from the moment he had been aware of the approaching Marine, Klec could feel a wonderful frenetic energy building. Now, the sensation completely embraced him, goading and teasing at first, and then offering what seemed the promise something long forgotten, if he would just give in to the sensation. His reality seemed to slow, and the blade sang as it cut through the air; the sensation seemed to be connected to it, and it was all Klec could hear, all he could know, at that moment.

The Loyalist dropped back to his good leg and prepared his reprisal, clenching his jaw and grinding his teeth hard to steady his nerve. He would not give this foe the satisfaction of even a grunt in pain. He had used the butt of his pistol to defect the first strike, but his Chainsword was at the ready and it quickly growled to life as it rose to parry the Traitor’s second attack. The sword met the blade and they locked for a moment…

Klec was transfixed, the moment seemed endless and in the infinity he could see everything as fractured slivers in time. His blade met with the sword and he thought it curious that he could perceive and feel each tooth of the Loyalist’s weapon bite and grind as it searched for flesh to cleave into. He could admire it as the inanimate predator that it was; a tool that has no morals, only a function; one that it excelled at. Klec watched the individual sparks fly as the two weapons danced closely for a moment. He watched as sword skipped and bounced down his blade and with an almost gleeful jump, leapt over the guard of his weapon. The Chainsword continued its relentless hunt for flesh as Klec watched it with mesmerized fasciation; it rode up his left forearm, chips of black pigment and sparks flying from the path it left. The teeth of the blade dug into the crook of his elbow and he smiled as it bit into his flesh. He thought it peculiar that he could feel each tooth of the weapon, as they bit and gnashed at the muscle and sinew of his arm; he listened to the weapon’s song change key, the engine labouring slightly as it set to work on the bone.

Klec embraced the bite of the sword leaning in for a moment before dropping hard to bring his good elbow down on the wounded knee of the Marine. Recoiling, the Loyalist stumbled back and quickly shifted to find his balance. Klec dropped back, way, and into a defensive curled posture. His left arm, severed just above the elbow, hung on desperately by a strip of armor and mangled flesh; he continued to watch in ecstatic fascination as his blood sprayed in large gouts from the wound, the path of each drop fractured into an infinite number of moments. He watched as the crimson puddled, forming a smooth surface that shifted and rolled as each drop struck the growing pool. He watch, his head swimming with the sensation, as the drops changed from rich red to the deepest black. The wound gushed, continuing to weep tears of acidic black ichor for a few moments; the fluid hissed and bubbled wherever it landed, instantly burning and corroding anything it touched. Klec could feel it seeping up into his arm as if entering through the wound and spreading through his left arm and shoulder. While this dark gift was to be his, it did not seem that it would grant him immunity until he knew it well; as it spread and infused with him the searing pain was beyond comprehension. He cast his weapon aside as the experience debilitated him and began wailing with each beat of his hearts, their relentless rhythm forcing the ichor deeper into his flesh. As Klec sang his song of beautiful agony a series of boney protrusions erupted from his wound…

The Loyalist had slumped back with the Traitor’s strike to his leg. Where he could hobble on his wounded knee before, it was now shocked into near uselessness and the searing pain forced him to take several moments to regain his focus. He knew he had dealt his foe a telling wound, and they were shrinking away into a defensive stance. This would need to be resolved quickly, but he knew that wounded prey could prove unpredictable. He steadied himself as Klec began to wail, thinking at first how pathetic a specimen this Marine was; the wound was horrendous, but the reaction seemed extreme. He readied himself to silence this Traitor and lurched forward as he lifted his weapon. As he advanced his foe unexpectedly threw his bolter aside, their wailing and screaming became to become almost unsettling, and he paused as the Marine slumped away from him and clutched at his arm in uncontrolled agony. Had the wound to his arm obscured a lucky strike on their torso causing them to react this way? No, this was something different, and he stared for a moment in horrified fascination, as if a whisper in the back of his mind called to him, imploring him to watch and perhaps better understand.

Klec convulsed uncontrollably as the stump of his severed arm erupted first with long talons, then thick boney digits, and finally a full hand and forearm. The form grew and swelled at a surprising rate, with fresh bone, sinew, tendons, muscle, and skin replacing the severed limb in a matter of moments, before it increased further in size and strength. The skin of his new limb was finely scaled and virtually black, with iridescent hints of dark blue in the muscular definition; even after the limb had reformed the colour and texture spread up his arm like a stain. The agony pushed Klec to transcendence; as he felt the new limb expand outward taking form to replace his severed arm, he could also feel it plunge deeper inward as his hearts carried the burning ichor through his body. He pulled himself up from his knees, staggered, and slumped against the wall; each beat of his hearts punctuating the passing moments with the searing pain of the ichor spreading, but he was beginning to find clarity in the searing sting and composure in the face of the pain. There was an ecstasy in the agony, if one was willing to embrace it and make it their own. The sensation seemed almost conscious, silently encouraging Klec to drink deep of the pain, and learn to find strength and guidance in the experience. Klec came to see, if only the tiniest glimpse, the will of his Dark Masters as their attention briefly turned to him.

“… Emperor protect...” the Loyalist unconsciously uttered the words under his breath as his faculties quickly returned; the Marine had seen more than enough, he shook off the taunting whispers in the back of his mind and raised his sword as his vox barked “Cursed abomination! Purge the heretic!” he swung with an aggressive attack aimed at decapitating the Traitor, intending to quickly finish the encounter. Klec’s new hand snapped out with an instinctive will, purposely catching the growling blade as it swung in. The teeth bit and chewed into the new flesh and the black ichor gushed forth to meet them; the acidic fluids were quickly carried into the weapon’s inner workings, and just as quickly it set to work corroding and disintegrating the weapon from the inside. The hungry growl of the sword’s motor promptly went silent as it succumbed to damage inflicted by the fluids. The Marine attempted to swing his Bolt Pistol to bare, but Klec caught his wrist with his other hand and forced his aim away from its mark; he fired two shots, and the first shell clipped Klec’s helmet, severely cracking the faceplate and knocking his head backward. Still lost in the experience of receiving his dark gift, the force of the strike caused Klec’s very psyche roll and tumble backward, as if slipping from a ledge into a bottomless abyss. If he were to fall into this perceived infinity he would take the soul of his foe with him as a final offing to his Dark Masters; but Klec brought his tumbling existence to right, snapping his head forward in a vicious head-butt. The blow broke a large portion of his damaged helmet away, exposing the left side of this face to his foe. Unable to properly brace himself with his wounded leg, the Loyalist faltered and dropped to his knees as he grappled with Klec. He steeled his will and exerted all of the force he could muster, trying to regain his footing, just as he became aware of a strange itching in his right wrist that quickly grew into an intense burning.

Klec loomed over his opponent, forcing the Loyalist’s center of gravity back and keeping him on his knees. The black ichor released by the wound caused by the Chainsword spilled down the weapon and worked its way into the wrist joints of the Marine’s armour; it quickly broke though and began to hungrily eating into the flesh it found underneath. He could feel the concerted efforts of the Marine become more frantic and desperate as the sensation made itself known; he smiled to himself as he came to understand that the Loyalist could not find focus in the pain, and it caused their psyche to falter. Klec tore the disintegrating sword from the Marine’s grasp and flung it away. The wound that was made by the weapon began to knit and heal with the same impetus that originally grew the limb, but Klec was oblivious. The pale skin of his face began to mottle and darken, turning black as the gift spread to consume a large swath of his head; his left eye darkened and then suddenly lit with an unsettling blue light. His gaze drilled down on the determinedly silent Marine, “Cursed?!” the voice that spilled from his shattered helmet was his, but the tone was strange, even to him. “Behold, we have been chosen for... blessing!” As he spoke Klec’s speech resonated, seeming to be a blend of his own voice with an unsettling chorus of others. “Our Dark Lords deem this heretic worthy of favor… How will your Corpse God aid you?” He did not expect a reply, but he paused a moment all the same, before plunging a single talon into the Marine’s throat; he contorted his new hand, twisting the talon vertically and drove it downward; like a daemon’s blade the talon’s edge was remarkably keen and pierced flesh, bone, and armour with frightening ease. To his credit, the Loyalist had not given Klec the satisfaction of a single utterance of pain or discomfort.

Klec held this macabre pose for several moments after the struggle had ceased. “Lords accept this offering of a forsaken brother. His death was good and deserves praise.” The words echoed and seemed to orbit his head. He dropped the Marine to the ground and began to move with instinct, as if in a dream. While the frenzy was fading, his reality was altered, and he was finding it rather distracting; this would take some getting used to. He retrieved his Bolter, blade, and arm; his flesh in particular would make a wonderful totem to as a token to celebrate his gift. Of the Marine he claimed his Bolt Pistol and helmet, head-and-all; the helmet would require retrofit, but it would make for a good replacement. The skull would make an excellent addition to his trophies._


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## Tawa

How have I never seen this until now.....? :shok:

*throws cookie* :good:


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## Subtle Discord

*New Projects in The Works - Provide Some Feedback*

*Subtle munches happily on the cookie* Thanks! I like cookies.

_Input and feedback requested; if you're still reading by the end (or want to skip to the end) I would appreciate some direction from the people I want to appeal to with my studio - you, the reader; short term plans are in place, but I could use some help prioritizing some long term projects and could use some perspective. More on this later._

After receiving my copy of _Imperial Armour 13_ several weeks back it quickly became apparent that I would be enticed lured _forced_ to add to my collection. The merits of the units can always be debated, but with so many great rules for Chaos consolidated into one dark tomb, there's just so much potential with the sheer volume of choices presented that it can give a Chaos collector and player the giggles. I had no choice but to succumb to the whispers and taunts that started as soon as I opened that infernal book; and a few days ago my dispatch arrived...









One part addition to my personal collection, one part addition to the studio for design purposes; friendly old Saint Nicholas is going to be good to me this year.









I'm a tread-head, what can I say? I'm surprised I lasted this long before succumbing to the temptation of adding a Sicaran to my army; but _daaamn_, it's one *huge* chunk of resin.

I'm still not totally sold on the practicality of the openings in the armour on the front of the Sicaran (my design for Armoured Ceramite might close/cover them) but the overall look and form of the model has grown on me more-and-more since it was released. There are lots of nice lines and surfaces to work with, I'm sure I can do both an armour upgrade kit and a lighter trim kit for variety. I really wish the tracks were loose; attached as they are now, it's very hard to see a way to give them a Chaos makeover. As a consolation, it's good that they are not covered in Imperial iconography.









One of my main worries was that the Rapier Battery would have a considerably larger footprint compared to the Obliterators they would be supplementing and/or replacing.

It's not going to be a problem it seems; they compare very well to an Obliterator. I wanted my model to very closely match the footprint and profile of an official FW Rapier. Most of my kits supplement a current model, so scale isn't an issue, I just fit the model, but in this case I wanted to get it very close. The Graia Pattern battery that I got is _slightly_ narrower than the Chaos Marine model that I'll be creating, but that will be easy to add during the build. The Dark Works kit will be considerably different but properly inspired by this original.









Last but most certainly not least, the corner stone of my soon('ish)-to-be Air Calvary; a Chaos Fire Raptor gunship. Again, wow... that's a *ton* of very sexy resin! *Swoon*

As much as I would have liked to, there would be no way I could make a Fire Raptor from scratch the same way that Forge World has; several parts are just _massive_ and beyond the scope of my studio. Due to the scope of the changes done by the 'Raptor kit, if I really wanted one, getting it from FW made more sense. This kit will pull its weight however, as I will be making conversion kits for the Fire Raptor (Armoured Ceramite and Chaos themed trim) and using it to help in my Chaos Storm Eagle build.

So, while these kits will add to my army collection, they are also strategic purchases that I can make use of in the studio. All of this, along with items already on the bench, plus other projects and ideas, and all of the other inspiration in IA 13, means there's a lot on my plate, table, spilling to the floor...

_Still with me? Wow... really? Ok, so here's where you come in._

I *do* have some semblance of a plan; I know what I want to build and have a reasonably consolidated list. What I need is an order of manufacture; I want to build it _all_, and have every plan to, but I can do it in any order, so here's your chance to give some direct input.

Short term goals (next 4 weeks during mid-term break):​

*Chaos Siege Line (ADL counts-as)* - This kit is done, it just needs improved moulds made.
*Loyalist Land Raider Armour* - Also finished and awaiting mould making; moulds for this kit are more complex, however.
*Morsus AA-Gun (Quad Gun counts-as)* - On the bench and very near complete before it needs moulds made.

Short term, I have these and a general casting run to replenish my stock. I'm hoping to have no complications to stop any of these from getting done before classes start up again. I won't get started actually building until spring, but I _will_ be doing concept sketches and drawings and I want to know what to focus on. In no particular order, most of my longer term studio projects will include:



*Chaos Storm Eagle* - A full kit that will build off a Storm Raven base model. Very elaborate and involved build.
*Chaos Fire Raptor* - A Chaos Trim kit and a Armoured Ceramite kit will be a good start. Modestly elaborate build.
*Chaos Sicaran* - Again, I will start with a Chaos Trim kit and Armoured Ceramite kit. Modestly elaborate build.
*Chaos and Loyalist 'Dozer, Siege Ram, Destroyer Blades* - Rhino and Land Raider chassis compatible. Reasonably easy build.
*Chaos Rapier Battery* - Ectoplasma cannon, Hades auto'cannon, and Cyclotrathe beamer. Modestly elaborate build.
*Chaos and Loyalist Jetbikes* - Counts-as bikes as an update to the current choices. Modestly elaborate build.
*Pintol Combi-Weapons* - Vehicle mounted Bolters, Flamer, Plasma, and Melta; a long standing idea that still needs to be made real. Deceptively difficult build due to the scale.
*Relic Weapon Systems* - Starting with the Predator I want to create some Relic weapons for various platforms. Reasonably easy build.
*Loyalists Trim Kits* - Rhino Trim Kits to start, and expand from there. Reasonably easy build.
*Dark Mechanicus Construct Kit* - Sentinel-like legs and robotic/mechanical components to improved Maulerfiend builds. Still only a concept, modestly elaborate build.
*Chaos Battlefield Debris* - Tanglewire, Tank Traps, and Barricades done with my Chaos Trim treatment. Reasonably easy build.
*Void Shield Generator* - This will be a piece of neutral scenery, not Chaos specific, intended for various armies. This will be a massive build, but an awesome final kit.
*Chaos Kits 2.0* - Taking advantage of Servator Zing, new Rhino, Predator, and Land Raider kits are planned. Modestly elaborate build/s.
*Chaos Knight* - The Imperial Knight kit begs to be defiled into a war machine of Chaos, so it shall be done. A very elaborate build.
*Chaos Renegades* - IA 13 opens the door to proper allied Renegades and all the toys they bring to the aid of Chaos. Wide range of levels.

These projects will start in the spring (May 2015) and there's no way they will all get done next summer, but I need to start somewhere. Some builds will be much more in depth than others, so how quickly some things will be made will vary depending on the project.

So, what on this list stands out to you? What would you like to see made real first? If you could pick a few from the list, which ones? If you could add something to the list, what would it be? Input, feedback, inspiration, ideas, let me have it! It's still several months off, and I can never completely promise just how things will ultimately come together, but I will be starting my brainstorming soon; help me give it some focus and direction.

So much more to come...


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## Subtle Discord

*A bit of distraction before waking up the studio for some work.*

Note: anyone reading this between now and spring is more than encouraged to add their $0.02 on what they would like to see, to help me with direction and motivation. Everything on the list is planned in some way and I'm going to make as many of them real as I can manage; some will take longer than others and might need to wait until I'm done school and have more freedom to step things up another notch, or several notches. Some (not many) may get lost along the way and others added (still some ideas lurking and/or forgotten) but I want to see how far I can take this. But, with so many ideas blowing me in so many directions it can be hard to find a course.

So, last exam on Tuesday and I'm happy to say it seems like I haven't wasted any tuition yet; the few classes I may have worried about (Ugh... Statistics) didn't implode on me and my journey on the road of higher learning continues. After catching up on lots of sleep I started to work getting things tidied up in the studio (School has a way of taking over every surface) and it will be ready to get back to work tomorrow. But, as I was getting things sorted I unearthed a few half-built projects and I'm reminded that I have a few things still nagging me to be addressed, not to mention some new resin that's begging to be inspected. Since the Decimator is a IA 13 unit, it didn't seem a complete frivolous distraction to spend a few hours finishing the build. Looking back, it was October 2012 that I got the model, so it seems overdue that it gets finished.

Am I the only one who buys a Forge World model with eager anticipation, only to be so intimidated by it, that sits for months and years? I even know it's going to happen, but I like to have the plastic for its potential, even if it needs to wait, or intimidates me, to the point of procrastination. I want it there for when I finally have the conviction to attempt the build.









Something old, something new, and something... err... broken.

So, as a brief hobby therapy diversion I took some time to get most of my long overdue Decimator finished (still need to finish the Butcher Cannon/s and Conversion Beamer) and get a rough assembly of the Sicaran done. The Sicaran is so straight forward (in theory) to build it really wasn't much work to get it this far; it will be enough to start some early work on later designs, and to sit looking cool beside my other tanks.

The odd looking device to the right was (key word) a very useful tool that I used while doing the hose details on the Decimator, but I managed to break it just as I finished using it. I wanted to write about it and do a bit of demonstration, but the breaking of the tool kind of put a crimp in that plan. To explain, it is used to pick up a tiny amount of super glue with capillary action and place it very carefully where you want it; very good for getting glue just where you want it and/or in hard to reach places. It can be purchased, but I made mine, so I'll be sure to show it again when I've made a replacement.









Oh Forge World, why do you force me to love to hate you? Or is it hate to love you?

Forge world gets so much right. Everything is subjective, so personal taste aside, FW makes some great kits. The product they produce sets the bar that I strive to meet and exceed in my builds and prototypes for The Dark Works. Having seen the Sicaran I knew I would like it in person cosmetically; I think it's great looking and I can't wait to start making designs for it. I've already got ideas brewing.

It's the fit the drives me crazy! As mentioned before, it's a very simple build to get it this far: four pieces to create a center hull 'box', two massive slabs for the treads and the hull surrounding them, and the main turret. It's so straight forward I don't understand why it has a small flaw in how the parts come together that creates a gap in the rear of the assembly. Warping and mould lines are one thing; not wonderful, but usually fixable. But this is just strange fit in what appear to be straight parts, and it's annoying in a premium product. Beyond this gripe, the kit is nice, and it's going to be a pleasure to turn it into a rolling war-alter of Chaos.









The Decimator kit is virtually made to be magnetized. Not that I need much excuse to find a use for some neodymium magnets.

At first I planned to add magnets only for weapon swapping, but I got so caught up in trying to find a pose that I liked I decided to add some extra magnets to the shoulder of Decimator; in this case the magnets show how great they can be at making hinges. I was sure to use tall magnets so I could make a hole-in-post to add to the stability of the join.









Now the Decimator can change between, evil stalking pose, standard shooting pose, and "You want some of *this?!*_"_ shooting pose. Excellent!

The Decimator in contrast to the Sicaran assembled very well with no real surprises. In fact, it offered so much freedom in the joints, it was hard to choose a pose from top to bottom. I ended up drilling a pin through each joint to create a puppet-like structure to work with while I experimented with the pose; these added extra strength when i finally did glue it into place. The kit is so great with its level of detail I didn't find a need to go over-the-top in embellishing it; just a few spikes an some extra hoses.









I'll just add one-or-two turned into many more. Too bad it all gets so obscured by the armour plates that are added over top.

It all started with the damage to the cast; a few pipes had broken away at some point and I wanted to replace them to clean things up. A perfect job for the stockpile of hoses and pipes I've been building up ever since I picked up my GSI Tentacle Makers. Once I got those done I liked the look so much I couldn't help but fill out a few more to add to the effect, and a bunch to fill out the 'neck' of the construct. It's one of those things that you can keep going-and-going with, and overdo it if you're not careful. I think I added enough to embellish, but not clutter it too much.









A little more work on the base and this little monster will be ready for primer. Still needs some Butcher Cannons and a Conversion Beamer, but they deserve special treatment.

I didn't go too over-the-top in the pose, even though the kit offers so much freedom in the legs. The kit is so all-round bad-ass it can be very successful with just a but of twist in the hips and a lean of the torso. I did take my time posing the legs so that the balance of the model works, but it's not dramatic, more plodding and deliberate.The magnets offer enough freedom to change the pose up nicely depending on the load out. As mentioned, I still need some Butcher Cannons and a Conversion Beamer, but I want to take some time to do some extra conversion work on them. The Beamer needs to be appropriately 'Death Ray', and the Butcher Cannon provided as-is from Forge World is really lacking in 'Butcher'. the main body of the weapon is ok, but I think it needs a more intimidating looking barrel. I won't be able to start painting this until spring, but I'll get the primer on it so it can have a good long sit to cure out. This it going to be fun, if a bit intimidating, to paint. Good thing it comes apart so much so it will be easy to get at the tricky spots.

Ok, enough distractions (for now) time to get back to getting things into production mode. lots of casting to do over the weekend and the coming days followed by some serious mould making to open the door for more casting. I'd be lying if I said it wasn't work, but it's a different kind of work when it's tapping into a passion. The whispers from the warp taunt me to create and produce for my fellow Warmasters, so I am compelled to obey.

Thanks as always for reading. Questions, comments, input, critiques, feedback, criticisms, and general banter are always welcome. Much more to come...


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## Uveron

That's looking fantastic! Love the extra cables.. adds depth to something that I already thought was fantastic!


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## Subtle Discord

Much more in depth update/s coming shortly, but in the mean time...









Bah, bah, Black Sheep have you any wool? Yes sir. Yes sir. Three bags full! (Loricatus Hvy. Mk.II moulds are _almost_ complete)


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## Subtle Discord

*Loricatus Mk.II Pattern Heavy Armour*

It took longer to get finished then I had hoped, but it came together nicely once I had the time to focus on it. Maybe I'm being too critical, but there is a minor issue with how some of the parts are casting, and I'll talk about that more later to look for some feedback. However, this update was going to be a single post, but as I was compiling pictures, the moulds for this kit kept getting more-and-more complete, giving me more pictures to add, and so this will mutate into 2 or 3 updates to cover everything. But first...

_"And now, for something completely different!"_ On occasion I have mentioned my desire to work my way up to scratch building a Chaos titan scale vehicle of some description. For many years the Chaos Defiler kit had planted the seed of an idea that would blend a traditional Imperial titan with an up-scaled Defiler. Now, this is a long term idea that I'm planning for _after_ a nice formation of my Black Legion army are complete; in isolation it would be an amazing build, but too lonely. You need an army to surround something of this scale to do it justice, in my personal opinion. Now that said, my brain is always processing ideas and looking for inspiration and/or materials, and this opportunity was just too perfect to pass up.

The original idea, many years ago, was always to build this mostly from scratch. But without anything to use as a starting substructure the idea was (is) very daunting, to say the least. Now, with the release of the Lord of Skulls and the Imperial Knight kits, I figured they might become a good base to start with, but the scale seemed a bit too small for what I really had in mind. I still have my ideas for those kits, but Hasbro was kind enough to solve my problem in one go; enter the _Terradrone_. Now, knowing how short-lived some products can be in our fast paced modern times (especially with toys), I got one of these before they almost inevitably stop making them; even if it has to sit on a shelf for a while, it's now just waiting to go.









Easily large enough to properly stomp on a Rhino; Santa brought me this for Christmas with strict instructions that it be transformed into a Chaos war machine, so who am I to argue?

As a proper toy it's actually a little underwhelming; it's not very fast moving and its rate-of-fire is somewhat slow. But, it _is_ surprisingly accurate in its movement, nicely articulated in the legs, plus reasonably solid feeling in its build construction. Ultimately it's going to be used mostly as a static model that will have the benefit of being able to change pose, and the added novelty of being able to walk, even if it won't likely do it very often.

Who am I kidding, once it's done I'll play with it _all the *time*!_ "Die Imperial lap-dogs!" *stomp stomp stomp* "Cannon charging!"... Errr... heh... did I say that out loud? *smiles sheepishly*

It's still a massive build, but having this to use as a substructure will greatly reduce the design work needed to make it real. I've got a good idea how I'll be adding armour plates to skin the legs and totally transform the look of it; it only has two legs (each repeated 3 times) so I can build limited prototypes and cast enough to go around. The upper 'body' is another story completely, and will require much more consideration; it does tilt to shoot farther (indirect fire!) but I'm not sure if or how I will take advantage of that.

For now it's enough to have a solid starting form to work with, and I can just concentrate on doing the legs; there's plenty of time to give proper consideration to how the top will look and function. The top is actually totally modular and easily removable (useful for storage and transport) so it can really be considered separately; it might even open the door to having different upper bodies for different variations of the final model.

I have no idea at what pace this will take form, but expect it to turn up, looking considerably different, at some point in the future. It's going to be an ambitious build, even with such a wonderful starting substructure, but it's also going to be such a great centerpiece to the army I'm looking forward to the challenge it will be. It's one of those projects that has such a great metal image, I'm driven to see it made real. Until I can start a proper build, it will be an excellent sketching subject, so expect to see some of those soon enough; I can make them part of my college sketching requirements, so the effort can be useful in more than one way. 









Funny thing about finishing a prototype. Once the parts are complete, it's still not really complete. Now it needs to be setup for moulds.

The swapping plates to move the sponson between the from and rear positions is added complexity to the build, and that will add to the number of moulds; but, it's a straight forward idea that's worth the effort to explore. Time to take the parts and wrap them in some rubber. But first, vents, lots of vents.









The Chop-It and Sand-It from Micro-Mark are perfect for making the many repeating bits needed for making lots of vents.

The double doors of the center armour components create a dead zone between them; as you fill the object in the mould, bubbles can get caught in between the doors. Without vents there's nothing to keep the bubbles moving to force them out. Even with the vents it can be a spot prone to catching annoying bubbles.









Ooo... pink. Slaanesh should be proud. I've changed the rubber that I've been making my newest moulds from, and that's a subject unto itself for another post.

Some in-progress pictures of me making moulds. As always, I make my moulds with generous wall thicknesses; the thicker the mould, the more resistant to warping it is. Deep locking pins mean the mould locks together very tightly, and with just a rubber band to wrap and hold the mould together it's ready to cast with.









Resin casting is an almost addictive process; it's always a downright gratifying experience to see what was once parts and pieces held together with glue and epoxy turn into solid pieces of clean plastic.

The very first casts of a new mould. Mmm... yeah, that's the good stuff. As each new mould was completed the kit was finally able to take form...

















Loricatus Mk.II Pattern Heavy Armour kit - The Dark Works 2015.

So, the moulds are complete, and have now cured for a few days so they can start producing soon... but, there's an unexpected catch. There seems to be a small issue with how the parts are curing and it's effecting the fit of the modular center plate used to swap the sponson; where it was quite tight in the styrene prototype build, it is slightly looser in the final resin cast. As I said earlier, while there _is_ a slight change in the fit, maybe I'm being too critical. It took me very little effort to fix it by physically altering the part, and it could also be filled with the greensuff that will be inevitable to make the parts seamless either way.

So, maybe I need some outside perspective and input; I'll take some pictures of the issue and see what the public thinks of it. There are solutions, but with the labour and materials invested in the kit so far, I want to temper my desire to produce top quality kit with being realistic. Let me get my next article worked up, and you'll better see what I'm talking about. A picture (or several) is worth a thousand words, and all that.

On a related side note; once this kit is finished and photographed for The Dark Works product shots, I will be finally assembling and painting this Land Raider model. After being in my collection for 3+ years and being used to make three different resin kits, I think it's done enough work and deserves to go to pasture, as it were. I'm very pleased with the idea of even priming this model after seeing it grey for all these years; it will be downright surreal to see it with colour on it. I can't wait. And once it's done it will give me an excuse to do some Terminators to put in it... someday...

Thanks for reading. As always, speak and be heard! Comments, questions, input, and feedback are always welcome.


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## Subtle Discord

*Loricatus Mk.II Pattern Heavy Armour, part 2*

It's been mentioned in other corners of the interweb that I'm very open in documenting and showing what I do. I hope that my efforts at transparency are obvious, as it's a very conscious effort on my part. I know exactly what I want to produce, and it's nothing but the best that my skills can muster, so I have nothing to hide. So, if I've got nothing to hide, why not show what I'm doing to enlighten those who might be interested? Some might want to know because they want to try for themselves (I know I'm always looking for well presented 'how it's done' content, so I can't be alone) and some might just want to see how it's done out of more casual curiosity. Either way, I have a knack for it, people seem to appreciate it, and I like the progressive documentation, so I have no problem letting you all peer in on my workbench. I'm sure if I'm constantly learning new things as I work, others out there will appreciate the oppertunity to learn along with me.









The new Mk.II kit uses a modular plate to select the orientation of the door and sponson. It's also the feature that's teaching me a lesson in resin casting.

This idea came to me after I made my first Land Raider Armour kit, so it's only available on the new kit. As the Mk.I moulds age it's only a matter of time before they need to be replaced; I might add a second center plate to add this option to that kit in the future, but for now the Mk.I kit only comes in the single (Sponsons forward, doors back) configuration. I've also already got a good idea for a Mk.III that I really like, but that's getting ahead of myself.









I always build with accuracy and precision in mind and in this case I was very particular about the fit of the swapping center plate.

Every detail of a prototype, good or bad, will be replicated in the copy; time and care taken in the build _will_ pay off in the final product. In this case I knew that a slight gap between the plate and trim was inevitable. I still tried to make it as tight as possible so it will take as little effort as possible to fill to make it seamless. The idea was that it should fit so snugly that the part will align itself with little effort.









Not all parts are created equal when you're casting in resin, and these parts prove the point.

After casting everything looks good, but the fit has changed ever-so-slightly. Where the plate was very snug in the prototype, it's become slightly looser in the casting. From what I can tell the change in thickness of the area where the plate sits compared to the plate itself made the parts cure and shrink differently; the base was much thinner (0.75mm) so it shrank very little and the plate is thicker (2.25mm) that part shrank more during curing. In the end, the gap is a fraction of a millimeter wider, so it's not a huge deal but it's annoying when I was trying so hard to make it to a tighter tolerance.









Not my preferred solution, but dealing with the gap isn't that difficult.

After sleeping on it and considering some of the fit issues I've had with Forge World models, I've come to the conclusion that I am being critical. I want to make top-notch kits, but I need to temper that with being realistic. Since a bit of greenstuff will be needed even if the fit is really good, it could easily fill the gap with no modification. I've been able to close the gap by making a few cuts in the base plate, filing a bit of resin away, and gluing it down as normal. With the top plate in place you'd never know the difference.









Much more clean-lined than the Mk.I Armour kit, the open areas of the Loricatus Mk.II Armour kit are just begging for some freehand mural painting.

Beyond that minor unexpected issue that I've shown here the rest of the kit is casting near flawlessly; sharp details, perfectly straight lines, absolutely flat panels, and wonderfully tight fit, all as it should be. I'll be flipping the switch on them for my shop in the next day or two after I get a few last things sorted out. I've got a first batch cast up and they've cured for 36+ hours, so they're ready to go. I like to let my resin cure for 48 hours at the minimum before I consider packing or shipping so it's reached full hardness. Resin goes through distinct stages as it cures; first it's soft like toffy, then it goes hard with a bit of flex/bend (best time to de-mould an object), then it reaches full hardness but becomes _very_ brittle (very easy to break items), and then it cures to the final blend of tough, rigid, and slightly flexible. 24 hours is usually enough to get a full cure, but I like the extra time as the material data literature takes all its measures (flex strength, hardness, shrinkage, etc.) after 48 hours, so it seems a safe bet there's a reason, and I use the same window as an acceptable cure time.

It also dawned on me over the last few days, as I was looking at some pictures of vehicle variants, this kit would make a prefect base for my take on an official FW Mk.IIb Land Raider. The modular plates could easily be changed into sponson enclosures like that of the FW Mk.IIb; and it wouldn't even require a change in the base armour plate to make them fit. Yep, I think the Mk.III might just have to consider that...


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## cirs85

That chaos warmachine is looking pretty sweet. I am sure you have been asked, but I want one of your MK II armor kits for the land raider...


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks for kind words. It seems that these boards limit the number of times your signature appears to once per page to cut down on clutter. Have a look near the top for a link to my shop The Dark Works. <- or click here 

So, as one last serious article before I get swamped under by school for the next 14 weeks, I've got a mix of tools, techniques, and materials to ramble about. Get comfy, it's going to be a big one. First up, a bit of home made kit...









The Easy-Bake Oven has nothing on this simple setup; I give you the Greenstuff Oven. Or maybe it should be called the Kneadatite Kiln so it sounds more sophisticated.

I like to use standard arm lamps around my studio, especially at my painting bench. They're a low-cost lighting solution that is useful with how adjustable they are. They're also prone to wearing out and braking, since they're not exactly expensive; easy to replace, but now I also have a use for the left over lamp. By adding an incandescent light bulb and combining it with a coffee can, it produces and stores just enough heat to speed the cure of epoxy putty, without endangering any resin or plastic.

The foiled cardboard of this coffee can makes it perfect for the task. Any properly size container will do, but the reflective nature of this type of can helps improve the effect. The bulb is 25w, and that is the perfect strength; I also tested a 15w bulb which didn't generate enough heat, and 40w which was enough to cause styrene to start warping. I've used it with the 25w bulb on several objects (some very delicate) with no adverse effects to the styrene or resin.

I would estimate that this little oven cuts the cure time of Greenstuff in half, and helps to alleviate one of the things I hate about working with it; to do Greenstuff sculpting work well, many times you need to work in layers. And I hate waiting for layers to cure so I get discouraged to even start some projects. It's far from instant, but it certainly helps.









A simple trick for improving the pins used to hold a build or conversion together, I've been meaning to show this tip for a long time.

Pins are essential to help certain builds stay together, it's as simple as that. any pin is good, but there's a super simple way to make them better; add texture.

1) I consider a good set of pliers an all-round must have tool for any bench; sometimes you just need the gripping power. I make sure mine have very well defined teeth in the jaws of the pliers for just for the following purpose.

2) By gripping the pin wire in the pliers and twisting it several times you can score some texture into the pin. You want to grip it tightly so that the teeth bite into the metal a bit, but don't go overboard. Work you way down the wire to make a good length of textured wire.

3) With this added texture on the wire, super glue will have something much more substantial to lock into as it dries. This simple change takes just a few seconds to do, but it will make pinned joints much stronger against both twisting and pulling forces. I actually dread the idea of trying to dismantle anything I've assembled with these pins; they work so well that may times the only way to remove something mounted with one, is by destroying it.









I've mentioned adding a second metal point to a compass and using it to cut circles, and here's how I use it to do just that.

1) Tilt the compass and gently scribe the circle into the plastic. Take your time, it will cut rather well with modest pressure and several passes. This can work on surprisingly thick card to get very accurate circles; here I'm cutting 1.5mm styrene sheet. Start with the first circle at the size you want. It's best to cut the circle _slightly_ larger then what will be needed; the edge of the cut will be a bit rough and you'll want to file and/or sand to finish, and that will shrink it a little bit.

2) Use a fine pin to poke the center point through the plastic. All you need is a point to use as a guide on the other side, so it doesn't need to be rammed through, but it will depend on the thickness of the material what kind of pressure you'll need to get at least a small point to work with.

3) The act of cutting the circle can force the compass out of alignment, be sure to test that it's still the right size before you flip and cut a second circle on the other side of the plastic. Naturally, you want to closely match the first circle. How deep you need to cut will really depend on the thickness of the material, but you'll be surprised that it doesn't need to be very deep for the next step to work every time.









Great thing about styrene, it loves to bend and snap on a cut line, even if it's not that deep. The break will even usually be a clean 90 degrees many times.

1) Simply bend the sheet firmly but carefully to split the scribed line into a proper break. Do it gently in both directions to get an even break from both sides.

2) Work around the circle and weaken the grip it has on the sheet with the bending action. Stiff areas near the edge of sheets can be stubborn to do with fingers, just use your handy-dandy pliers to help with the job.

3) Once you've worked around the circle it will reach a point where it will all but fall out of the sheet. It will be a bit rough around the edge, but still very clean and accurate.

4) It's already marked with a perfectly centered point for drilling for all sorts of purposes, if it's useful. Great for adding magnetic plates to tank turrets, for example.









Used to carefully apply super glue, I managed to break this little tool cleaning it after using it during the Decimator build, so I'll take the opportunity to show how to make one.

I was turned on to this wonderful little tool idea by the thread A Detailed Quality build of a Storm Eagle. This tutorial in general is a wealth of insight into the experience of assembling an advanced Forge World model. Not only does the author detail the problems and fixes for the model and build, but also many extra efforts taken to do add many extra details to the kit. Truly inspiring and informative, and this tool is a perfect example.

You'll want somewhat larger needles to make one of these. A few different sizes for different jobs is never a bad thing. A pack of needles will cost a few dollars, and the extra needles you don't used will always be useful as actual needles.









You can buy these tools already made from some hobby suppliers, but making them is so easy, it seems silly to spend more than $2 for some needles.

1) You'll need to nip off the end of the needle to get the desired forked shape. Be aware that needles are made from extremely hard steel (A jewelers saw-blade in my jigsaw would not cut this needle) and will most likely leave divot marks in the clipper's cutting blades. I have a set of cheaper clippers for doing such potentially damaging jobs.

2) Take care when you clip off the end, the bit will fly like a tiny missile; safety goggles are advised. This is what you want, but it's going to be rough and need some cleanup.

3) I start with a sanding block with 320 grit sandpaper to clean and shape the ends. Again, because the needle is so hard you'll need to use black silicon carbide sandpaper. Once i have the shape I work up to higher grit to smooth the finish.

4) With some loose sandpaper the inside of the tines are cleaned up and shaped a little.

5) To finish them, I work up to 600 grit and then 800 grip to get a nice finish on the surface. you want them to have a clean finish so they are easier to clean. Since they're used with super glue it's inevitable that the glue will build up on them and need to be removed while in use; a smooth surface will avoid buildup in the first place, and scrape clean easier when you need to.









Behold the amazing power of... Capillary Action! It happens so quickly I can be tricky to photograph so the middle shot is a bit out-of-focus.

Just touching the tool to a drop of liquid glue will cause the capillary action to pull a small measure of glue into the tool. Again, the photos for this are a little tricky; clear glue doesn't photograph well. Give it a try and you'll quickly see; touch the tool to a gap or join that you want to apply glue to and capillary action will pull the glue from the tool and into the gap/join.

By placing the hoses for the Decimator in drilled holes first to test and adjust the fit, and then carefully applying glue with this tool, I was able to lock these hoses in place without any messy glue buildup or mishaps. I've even carefully glued some of these hoses together to help lock them tight, and the light touch of this tool helped keep it very clean.









I've been using the pictured Mold Star 30 for years, and while I like how it performs I was interested in improving my moulds.

Put simply, resin casting moulds (all moulds, really) wear out. The plastic while it is in liquid form is actually very volatile and will actually attack rubber little-by-little as the mould is exposed to the plastic over-and-over. The plastic also produces a significant amount out heat while it cures, and I'm sure that can't help. And then there's the simple act of the object being pulled free from the mould's surface, slowly wearing away at the rubber. Many times you also need to bend and flex the mould to free an object, which is also hard on a mould, especially as it gets older.

It's no wonder moulds will dry out like the one pictured here; the pale colour of the left mould is an indicator of the age of this mould. At first, the discolouration has no effect on the cast quality, but as it expands it will make the surface so brittle that it's only a matter of time before defects start to appear.









So, in the spirit of exploring my options I chose to try some new products to see if I can improve my the lifespan of my moulds.

Mould Max 30, as the name might suggest, is rather similar to Mould Star 30, but it boasts a better tear strength, a long mould life, and it's bit stiffer once cured which helps to ensure items don't deform during casting work. Where the Mold Start is a 50/50 mix, Mold Max 30 is mixed 10-to-1. Mould Max 30 also takes 24 hours to fully cure opposed to just 8 hours for Mould Star 30. Mold Star 30 also pours noticeably faster (it's less viscous) then the Mold Max 30, so it doesn't catch bubbles as easily; Mold Max 30 benefits from being vacuum degassed before pouring a mould.

Both rubbers perform very well, but it seems like the Mold Max 30 is in fact aging better. It will take more use to see how it holds up over the long term. Its tear strength and stiffness is also noticeably improved, but all of these improvements come at the need for equipment to get the most out of it, and the longer curing time. I would still recommend the Mold Star 30 as the better general use rubber for the average hobbyist, but if you can do it right, Mold Max 30 can be worth the effort.

Finally, a few words about the mould release I use. Mann Release 205 is general purpose release that I've been using for years, and it does a great job, but it's not perfect. It's very thin and requires a separate spray bottle that never works as well as it could. I still rely on 205 during my mould making because of how good it is for treating the split for the mould.

But for actual casting I'm really liking the Mann Release 200 that I have started using in the last few months. It's a canned aerosol product that goes on very lightly and smoothly, and it even treats the surface of the mould so that the castings have a wonderfully smooth surface. The only down side of this release agent is how quickly it gets used up. It doesn't need to be applied heavily, but if you're doing lots of casting it will gobble up a can in no time at all, even if you use it sparingly. The good stuff never lasts as long as you'd like.

And on that note, thanks for reading. As always, things are brewing in the background as I'm grinding through my college work and I'll be ready to jump on things once I can get back in the studio. Classes finish at the end of April, so expect some garbled ramblings to emerge sometime shortly after. Hopefully, I'll be able to squeeze something in before then, but time will tell.

_"Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast." ~ Ace Rimmer_


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## Dakingofchaos

Your infinite wisdom never ceases to amaze me, all hail subtle.


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## Loli

The depth of your write ups is astounding. Just wow.


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## Nordicus

Remember guys, if any of you used his products, be sure to post of pictures so people can see them. I'm sure it would mean a lot to him to see his efforts being used by others.

I used his Chaos trims on this baby:









Keep up the good work man - Can't wait to see the next products you come up with!


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## venomlust

Subtle Discord said:


> Am I the only one who buys a Forge World model with eager anticipation, only to be so intimidated by it, that sits for months and years? I even know it's going to happen, but I like to have the plastic for its potential, even if it needs to wait, or intimidates me, to the point of procrastination. I want it there for when I finally have the conviction to attempt the build.


No, you definitely aren't!

My Fire Raptor is still just sitting there. I cleaned up most of the pieces, but just can't bring myself to get it done, as I feel my skills aren't there yet. I want to cast Reaper Batteries (among other details), since I'm a Chaos player as well, but I keep thinking I'd just mess them up and waste the rubber/resin used in the process and be no closer to finishing.


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## Dorns Legacy

Nordicus said:


> Remember guys, if any of you used his products, be sure to post of pictures so people can see them. I'm sure it would mean a lot to him to see his efforts being used by others.
> 
> I used his Chaos trims on this baby:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work man - Can't wait to see the next products you come up with!


That Land Raider looks amazing have some cookeh


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## Zion

How the heck did I miss this thread's existence? A LOT of great stuff here. I dig it completely!

And now I'm getting that itch to work on stuff for my Sisters. The basic Immolator kit isn't ornate enough in my opinion.

Though that'd pull away from the Eldar I'm trying to work on.... And then there is that Xenos Inquisitor I need to finish (he needs some GS work to give him some fur for his cape to kind of fill things in a bit because as is he's visually a bit "front heavy" around the head and shoulders).

This would be an easier choice if sleeping wasn't something I needed to do you know.



venomlust said:


> No, you definitely aren't!
> 
> My Fire Raptor is still just sitting there. I cleaned up most of the pieces, but just can't bring myself to get it done, as I feel my skills aren't there yet. I want to cast Reaper Batteries (among other details), since I'm a Chaos player as well, but I keep thinking I'd just mess them up and waste the rubber/resin used in the process and be no closer to finishing.


One of the tips I learned locally is if you're building a FW resin model using a little resin to "glue" the joints together can go a long way. It'll basically make joined pieces into a single piece and can help fill gaps.

It's a trick I've seen employed on a couple of things and to my knowledge is being used to build a Reaver Titan so that it isn't as fragile as it'd be with pins and superglue.


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## Subtle Discord

*Mechanicus?*

Oh, touché GW... touché. Now I have to start a Dark Mechanicus army. Well played.


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## Subtle Discord

With three weeks left of classes, the light is at the end of the tunnel for this year, and the studio is beckoning. It's been hectic, and there's still much more to come, but I've had an undeniable desire to take some of my new SolidWorks knowledge and dabble with something Warhammer 40k related. So, with a holiday Friday I decided to take the day as a tiny bit of a break, and do just that.









I'm quite pleased with what I was able to do in a day and a bit of work; it's not near finished, but it's a solid start.

This is beginning of my take on the Land Raider 'Dozer Blade that I have plans on making. I was only able to get the chassis link, the main arm, and the ram link finished before I ran out of time. Rather than making a 'blade' designed to push earth, I decided to make it more of a Siege Ram, designed to knock down obstacles and ram breaches in fortifications. Once in position the ram can lift up as the 'Raider assault ramp opens. It will be completely modular, so I will make both Traitor and Loyalist versions using the same base hardware.

And with that little teaser, I must slip back into the all concealing shadow that is higher learning. More to come, in due time.


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## Iraqiel

Looks really good so far mate. Another idea for you, could you look into making some sturdier predator sponsons for the followers of the dark gods?


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## Subtle Discord

Well then, with my higher learning responsibilities finished early this week (two years down, two years to go… *whew*) and catching up on some much needed sleep, it’s finally time to return to the hobby and my studio for the summer months. My apologies to anyone reading this who may have contacted me in the last few weeks with no reply, I’ll be sitting down to write to several people over the next few days.

The plan was to dive into some casting as soon as classes finished, replenishing gaps in my stock, but the state of my studio has forced me into a detour. College projects have a way of turning my already modestly cluttered studio space into an absolute disaster. Add to that the new equipment, materials, moulds, and stock, which I’ve added to the studio over the years and the dysfunction has reached a tipping point. This year I can’t just clean up, I need to do a major overhaul of how the entire space is arranged. I’ve started the daunting task, but it’s going to take several more days to get everything settled in. Rest assured that once I’m done, a casting run is priority one, followed closely by much more.

For those who are interested in my actual army progress, it is my hope to force myself into some scheduled painting time this summer; wearing so many hats for the studio consumes so many hours, I’ve come to the conclusion that I won’t get any painting done unless I literally block out time in my schedule for it. So many elements of the army rebuild (started in late 2011) are so close to finished, it’s downright depressing to see it all stuck in limbo for so long. I’m sure I’ll still struggle to get as much progress as I would like, but we’ll see what I can manage.

Now, while I’ve been hiding under a rock for the last several days as I decompress from classes, and started to take care of the studio reorganization, I haven’t been idle on the creation front. Let me introduce the first in a new class of kit that I have plans for production.









I’ve nicknamed this model The Little Snapping Turtle, in honour of its armoured chassis and the future weapon systems that will give it a bite.

The Land Raider Siege Ram that I was dabbling with earlier (that is also being re-worked and will turn up in its finished state soon) was just as taste of what I want to do with my expanding skillset; college is teaching me much, and now I want to start apply those teachings. This is the calibre of model I want to make going forward, and this is just the tip of the spear.

Don’t get me wrong, I love scratch building, but it’s become apparent that if I want to take my kits to the next level I’ll need to improve my process on several fronts. Detailing at this scale becomes exponentially harder when you’re doing it by hand, and some forms and shapes are just impossible or impractical to do with a reasonable amount of labour. My plan is to blend the two methods, using 3D models made with rapid prototyping (RP) combined with CNC cut scratch built styrene when each makes sense. In most cases this will entail building the larger structural pieces in styrene, and then using RP components and panels to detail the kit.

This is completely new territory for me, and I’m still researching exactly who will be doing my printing and best practices for rapid prototyping, so it will take me a little more time to get that all sorted. I expect the turn-around time for my prints to be at least 10-14+ days, so I’m working on a few self-contained kits right away. While they’re being made I will work on other studio tasks and builds.









A three-quarter view to give a better look; I added some lighting to the bottom pictures to give some depth and contrast.

While I dabbled with 3D modeling in the past using SketchUp, the software just wasn’t up to the task of producing the details I was trying to create. I got ok results, but it was a fight to get it to work on such a small scale. Learning SolidWorks has changed all of that. The learning curve is challenging, but the power of the software makes it worth every bit of effort, and I think this little model proves the point well. I’m very pleased with how it has turned out, and I can’t wait to do the weapon systems for it.

In the short term I plan to finish off this heavy weapon platform (next up, weapons), the ‘Raider siege ram, a long planned jet-bike, and maybe a few other small odds-and-ends. Once those are sent off for prototyping I will be turning my sights to the Storm Raven extension kit that many have been inquiring about, along with some other ideas I have brewing. From there I want to use the Strom Raven kit as a stepping off point to produce the full Chaos Storm Eagle kit that I’ve had waiting for far too long to start; with all of the skills and equipment finally coming together, a kit as large as the Eagle has finally started to become possible… I think.

But all of that, as they say, is another story for another day. While heavy on words and light on photos, this installment in Legion Rising marks the start of much more. I’ve taken it this far, I feel confident that I can take it farther. As usual, you can expect documentation of my exploits here over the coming weeks, months, and years. Stay tuned.

And, as always, comments, questions, input, feedback and all other general hobby musings are always welcome.


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## ntaw

Whoa. I....just whoa. Keep it coming!!


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## Kreuger

This stuff looks excellent as usual. I look forward to your growth as a designer with anticipation!


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## Nordicus

I'm following this with big interest - Especially the Little Snapping Turtle 

Remember if you need some help painting up your models, for demonstration purposes, just hit me up. It's the least i can do for your project :good:


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## Subtle Discord

Just a quick late night sneak peak.









Chaos Weapon Platform equipped with E-Plasma Cannon

Weapon system construction continues; further updates to follow...


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## Kreuger

That looks gorgeous!


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks, as always, for the encouraging feedback. Sneak peak number two...









Chaos Weapon Platform equipped with H. Auto-Cannon.

Progress is a little slower than I was hoping for (I have no choice but to learn and apply many advanced SolidWorks functions/processes as I build) but I think the results are worth it. Much like scratch building, getting the basic form is reasonably easy, but adding the details takes much more time. However, with each challenge figured out I have another option or process for future builds. The power to make changes without needing to scrap the entire part is by far one of the best advantages of digital creation; while I don't enjoy spending the time to redo a detail or part that isn't successful, just having the option available is wonderful.

Next up, my personal favorite (and why I forced myself to save it for last), the Conversion Beamer.


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## venomlust

O.M.F.G. yes PLEASE! I'm so happy I've held off on buying legion rapiers. I pray I can afford yours, but I hope you sell a truckload of them. They will easily be the best versions on the market.


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## Roganzar

Great looking weapons platform. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Bring on the Conversion Beamer. One of my favorite weapons.


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## Kreuger

Man, that is fuckin' gorgeous! I'd by the platform just to have one, but I'd buy additional copies of the gun to use on dreadnoughts, daemon engines, and tanks.

So [wink wink] please also stock just the gun/ammo box assembly. I'd buy it this minute.


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## Tawa

That is a very nice piece of kit! :good:


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## LordMolnar

I need this to live.


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## Subtle Discord

*Subtle tosses an insomnia fueled image out from under the rock currently residing over him*

While I've been quiet, I've also been active. More musings, ramblings, and updates to come soon...









After some creative struggles, my take on the Chaos Conversion Beamer has finally taken form.

*BROCK*: Aww no fuckin' way! Late 60's ultra death ray! She's amazing! Saddle operated with Doom-code gearing. Freakin' gorgeous.

*MR. CARDHOLDER*: If it were a woman I'd marry it.

*MR. DOE*: And I'd jeopardize our friendship by nailing your hot wife.

*BROCK*: Gyroscopic positioning?

*JONAS JR.*: At six points!

*BROCK*: Sick, tight.

*JONAS JR.*: And get this: it comes up out of the top of the skull!

*BROCK*: That's how it's done!

~ The Venture Brothers, e.36


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## Nordicus

Sweet sweet gods of Chaos, that looks awesome!


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## Kreuger

Gorgeous!


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## venomlust

Best one yet.


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## Dorns Legacy

Er Mah Gerd thats beautiful wnna swap my first born for 1?


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## Subtle Discord

++++++++++Scanning…
+++…
++++++++++Signal Detect…
++++++++++Signal Lock…
++++++++++Transferring…


















++++++++++Transferring...
++++++++++Decrypting...
+++++++...
++++++++++Standby...
+++...


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## Subtle Discord

*Subtle dives from the shadows, beats back life and the real @$#%ing world with a heavy club, slams the door shut, and quickly turns the lock*

Can I hide in here?

When the summer started I had several things ‘up in the air’ inside and outside of the studio, and as life is apt to do, things just love to fall at once. So… juggle has been the order of the day(s) the last several weeks. I’ve been in a bit of a funk because of it, and don’t have as much focus and drive as I’d like, but those are the whims of Chaos, and I always try to find my center. As usual, my silence hides my progress; writing goods articles always takes a reasonable investment in time, and lately that time was better spent creating. I’ve been working at both the virtual workbench and real workbench, so I’m going to split this update into two parts and look at each.

But first, a little lesson about the fun of unexpected equipment maintenance. At the beginning of the summer I was able to do a reasonable restock as planned and everything went smoothly. I wanted to get to it earlier and do a second casting run, but life and a long planned (much needed) camping vacation forced me to wait. When I returned to my workbench I discovered my compressor (the heart of my casting process, really) was leaking oil quite badly. After tearing it apart it seemed lucky to discover that it was just a worn out gasket that needed to be replaced; it’s better than a bigger mechanical problem, that should be simple enough to replace, I thought. Then I tried to actually locate the part (like trying to find a specific needle in a pile of needles) or material to make my own that wasn’t sold in massive expensive sheets. It wasn’t until I came across someone who worked on a farm that recounted how they ‘temporarily’ solved the same problem with a piece of cornflakes box cut to size; the original gasket has a very cardboard-like texture. They had since purchased a replacement gasket, but decided to wait for the improvised fix to fail before taking the effort to dismantle the compressor. That was several years ago, and the cereal box gasket had yet to fail. Being in a pinch, I channeled my inner MacGyver, found a box (actual corn flakes, no less) and used the old gasket as a template to trace out a new gasket. I haven’t had a chance to really stress it with some serious work, but so far it looks like it’s going to do the trick. This hiccup delayed a fresh casting run to restock, but that is now on track to start in a day or two, and that will be as good a test as any. *Crosses fingers*

Now, on to some (lots of) pictures and a bit of (lots of) rambling about 3D modeling. In short, yep, I really enjoy building/creating in SolidWorks. It still takes a surprising number of hours to finish a reasonably complex 3D model, but the freedom to explore and adjust forms and create complex assemblies is amazing. If the 3D prints I’ve ordered are of the right quality (examples I’ve seen are promising) then I know that I’ve only just stated to scratch the surface of what I can create. Hands-on scratch building will still have its place when the scale makes it practical, but for small-scale high-detail parts the potential is boggling. So I’ve done several smaller kits (and a few that are a bit larger) to test the waters; if they meet my standards they will be the first of many. First up, the finishing of some earlier projects and ideas; some from quite a long time ago…









A long time ago when I first started dabbling with 3D modeling I did some Bolter ammo drums, because well, belt-fed Bolters just don’t do it for me (and many others, it would seem).

An order for my first batch of 3D prints was actually sent before I went camping, (due to arrive late July) but they were rushed a little and I didn’t do a final test fitting in SolidWorks. When I returned and did a few checks I discovered that was a mistake (always do a final test fitting… always) and there were a few flaws that couldn’t be ignored. This forced me to cancel the order (creating a delay) but gave me the opportunity to make some final improvements and finish even more for my first order, like these ammo drums.

I’ve been adding the knives provided in the Chaos Space Maine kit as bayonets on the Bolters for a long time, but I was never happy with how weak the connection usually is at the join; they’re very prone to breaking off. So, I took the time to make some that should be much more substantial and add a bit of variety. If I (and others) like them it would be a snap to do other forms. When I got those done, a simple solution for a take on a combi-Melta along the same lines didn’t seem like a stretch; an ammo drum with an added Melta canister on the side completes the look. 









Started a few months ago, the Land Raider Siege Ram (AKA: ‘Dozer Blade) has been finished.

I made a few changes to this design, moving the smaller hydraulic arm from the top to the bottom to give better line-of-sight to the sponsons. Test fittings done with paper prints helped me get an idea what this will look like on an actual model. I was also sure to give the side-arms a key that will permit the part to lift while also stopping it from dropping too low. It’s a massive slab of plastic in the end that cost more than average to print (not enough volume to hollow to save cost) but I'm quite happy with the final kit, so it’s worth it. Still cheaper than the labour it would take to build something like this from scratch.

On a side note, can someone please confirm if Loyalist Space Marines are still unable to add the ‘Dozer Blade to their Land Raider? I’ll be happy to make a Loyalist version, but it only makes sense if they are an actual option for them. 









I didn’t plan on doing these, but they just sorta’ came together. Sometimes when the voices compel an idea, you just go with it.

I came across a model I had dabbled with several months ago for the armored base/pintol, and that was all I needed to get distracted (in a good way) with this build for several days. Being a fan of options, I plan to do all of my pintol mounted weapons with a modular base; a starting post with a smaller footprint so it can be mounted in unique locations, with a larger disk that fits the hatch locations on many of GWs kits. I also took a little time to make a raised and sunken version of these disks to give a little control over the profile these will create on a vehicle.

This little kit will be magnetized for weapon swapping, but also to give it some range of motion in its final built form. You see, I’ve got this thing about plausibility in my designs; I understand that these are just sci-fi props, but I still want the objects I create to appear plausible and reasonably manufacture-able. Always keeping the ideas of ‘How would this be manufactured and function?’ during the build process helps with adding authentic feeling details, in my opinion. It doesn’t have to realistic, but it should have some level of logic and realism, if that makes any sense? 









Mounted in the sunken disk it should also have a reasonably low profile, and I was careful to keep the top-down profile size close to that of the base so it can cleanly turn 360 degrees.

Being a small kit I also took the time to do a full Chaos/Renegade version and a more subdued version that can be used as a less overt Renegade or Loyalist part. 









Mmmm… options. *Drool* From left-to-right: combi-Bolter, combi-Flamer, combi-Melta, and combi-Plasma.

All of the parts are symmetrical, and modular so the weapons can be mounted how the builder wants. Just flip the weapon direction and rotate the assembly around to change up the look a little. Oh, and knowing now that Heresy-era vehicles can add pintol mounted Heavy weapons, I’ll say it’s safe to assume that adding some Heavy weapons in the future would be a welcome addition? 









If I was going to redesign at my counts-as Havoc Launcher I wanted to make my own pintol mount for it, and it had to have options. Mmmm… more options. *Drool*

Like the pintol combi-weapons, I started with a smaller post (same size footprint) that could fit into a larger disk; again this gives the option to mount it with the higher or lower profile, depending on preference. In this case I also added a small key and placed the yoke of the pintol on a rail that can slide from side-to-side. This gives the builder the option of shifting the launcher off-center for some added variety. 









I had several different motivations for redesigning this kit, not the least of which was adding a Heresy era version by popular request.

Racks of missiles are also painfully difficult to build by hand, so anything that can help in that case is also a welcome change. From drilling the holes, to making and placing the missile points, and trying to do it all as accurate and symmetrically as possible, it’s enough to drive you mad. If the printing process is up to the task of cleanly reproducing these curved surfaces it will completely convince me that I can do soft/round forms. This will be critical to go forward with some of my future ‘mutated’ and/or ‘warp-touched’ kits, and also kits for other races that use many more curved surfaces.

Also, I wanted to create a lower profile version of the Havoc launcher for mounting on tall vehicles. I think the larger square-faced launcher looks great on the back of a Rhino, but it becomes very bulky if you move it to the front, and it’s just too tall on the top of something like a Predator. By changing the missile layout and placing it in the sunken mounting disk, the profile is reduced nicely.

Finally, a look at the Chaos Rapier platforms in their 100% completed forms…

























After finishing the weapon systems I went back to the chassis and gave it one last refinement; I’ve got curves at my disposal after all, I may as well use them.

Unfortunately, it was the weapon platform that had a somewhat major flaw in the first print order that needed to be cancelled, so this kit was going to see a delay no matter what. This became a mixed blessing, providing an opportunity to do some final refinement and add several kits, but it’s still a little over a week before they ship. That’s ok, as it will give me time to do much-needed casting and more building of some other planned ideas. *Eyes his Storm Raven kit*

I have also invested in a third casting pressure chamber, and this will be the second chamber suitable for mould making (shop info tangent: my high pressure chamber is flat bottomed, and that’s not the best for making moulds – a round bottomed chamber lets you easily level the rack holding the moulds); this new chamber will double my mould making abilities and give me a boost to casting production as well. It should arrive next week and will take a day-or-two to assemble and get into working order, just in time to help me make new moulds for these kits as quickly as possible. This, combined with the increased ability to produce fresh kits (if everything goes as planned with the 3D printed components) and other improvements in my process that have helped reduce reject parts should also mean that I can look at a price reduction on my more expensive kits. With three casting chambers, and enough variety of moulds to run, I should be able to get a proper non-stop cycle going and improve on my labour costs. I firmly believe the quality and attention to detail in my kits justifies the cost, but I also recognize that I have room to improve for the benefit of me (more sales) and my customers (better prices).

But that, so they say, is another story for another day. Keep an eye open for an update on these kits in the next 10-14 days. All of the 3D models shown here were ordered, and they have all passed physical inspection so far; they should be rapid prototyped over this coming week and I have an estimated ship date of Aug 18th. I’ll be sure to post up some fresh-from-the-box super macro photos and give my first brutally honest impressions. All of the components have been made with sprew sections attached for production, so they won’t fit together for assembly until I have my first casts done. Expect the Rapier to be one of the first up.

Before that, as promised, I’ll be showing what I’ve been up to at my real-world workbench including some more painted models (I final have some stuff actually… finished! *boggle*), build progress on my Sicaran and Fire Raptor, more fun with plastics and Servator Zing, and perhaps some other general ramblings for the fun of it. As always, comments, questions, input, feedback, and general musings are always welcome.

/wall-o-text: off


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## Kreuger

Ho lee crap. Your work continues to be stunning. 

There are only 2 things keeping me from buying 1 or 2 if everything you sell: graduate school and a massive backlog of my own miniatures projects which I haven't had time for since grad school started. 

Otherwise yours are the most elegant and inspired 3rd party chaos pieces . . . Anywhere? 

Yeah. Anywhere.


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## Tawa

That LR ram! :shok: :good:


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## Iraqiel

The Emperor approves of this, along with the Chaos Gods. That's how damned cool your work is.


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## Subtle Discord

'Bah Bah black sheep have you any wool? Yes sir, yes sir, three bags full!'

I'm upto my eyeballs in plastic, plasticine, lego blocks, and rubber. I've started the moulds but need to keep working to get them done as quickly as I can manage. I'll do some larger updates when I have more time to spare. But, I wanted to do a quick teaser to show that I do in fact have the parts in my hands. In short, the results are mostly very positive, but there are some surface quality issues that are not totally unexpected. As I've worked with the parts I have a better understanding of the process, the material, and how to get improved results in the future. For now there's always going to be some cleanup work required to make parts production ready, but there are ways to minimize it and deal with what can't be avoided. I'll be sure to give some examples and explain much deeper in future articles; I'm guessing I'm not the only one who is very curious about rapid prototyping and the results that can be achieved.









Other parts required much more cleanup and preparation, so while that was being done, the Land Raider Siege Ram went under the rubber first.

To save printing costs larger objects were made hollow; those parts need to be filled (with carefully injected resin) and the vents need to be filled and cleaned before mould making. So, while I'm doing that I got the Siege Ram started first since it didn't require any of that preparation. While it cures (and it will be ready to start casting in just a few hours *giddy*) I've been working on other parts; the chambers are currently curing 7 moulds with many more to go. I've quickly discovered that the translucent quality of the resin makes it very difficult to photograph well. It tends to wash out details that are actually quite pronounced, and getting pictures of actual surface quality can be quite tricky. What I've seen of surface quality, most should look fine with the normal few coats of paint they can expect to receive (Read: yes there is some surface 'grain', but it is so minor that paint will make it vanish) but there are some places where it becomes more noticeable. Without manual cleanup these few places will show through paint.

Again, I'll elaborate further, once I've got some actual casts in my hands to see the final results. I should be able to post some pictures of the Siege Ram tomorrow. Stay tuned...


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## Kreuger

Awesome stuff. I'm looking forward as always to how this progresses.


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## Subtle Discord

So, the surface issues turned out to be a two headed beast, causing the obvious surface flaws, but also complicating the mould making process. The root of the surfacing issues are caused mostly by a 'frosting' of the material when a support wax is used during printing. Where the wax meets the plastic a frosting of the surface occurs. In many cases it's not that big of a problem; it is so subtle that paint should hide it. (Testing is planned) But also, if it's not properly prepared and lubricated liberally the mould rubber bonds very tightly to the texture. On large flat areas it's not as much of a problem, it sill peals away with a bit of extra force. However, small details, especially those that are undercut, inset, or very tight can bond so well that they tear the mould when being removed. Unfortunately, this is exactly what happened to be with several moulds, ruining them before they could even make a single copy. All but one of my first moulds had to be scrapped for this reason or another.

This was a mixed blessing. Loss of time and materials sucks, but I was able to improve my surface preparation process before pouring new rubber and it has both solved the sticking/tearing problem as well as remove the majority of the cosmetic surface issues. It takes much more work to prep the parts then expected, but the quality of the rapid prototyped pieces is worth the effort. Also, seeing now how the parts are printed, future parts will be arranged to avoid the supporting wax whenever possible to minimize prep work.

So, lets have a closer look. Here's the latest sneak-peak at some workbench progress.









The Siege Ram blade mould turned out fine, but the mould for the chassis link components needed a re-pour.









While I had some struggles with the weapon platform chasses, it's finally turned the corner and is almost finished.

There are further lessons to be given and other stories of misery a woe related to this kit, but I'll save them for when I have more a little more time. With the production complication worked out, I'm busting my butt to do some catch-up. It's been one of those summers, with unexpected factors (inside and outside the studio) really messing with the plan to get more done. But, that's life, and I'm starting to just accept that it happens some times, and it's better to put energy into finding a solution than getting angry or upset; anger in the moment is to be expected, but it does little in the long run.


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## Subtle Discord

It was asked in another corner of the interwebs exactly which printing method I used, and what steps I take for my surface preparation; it seems something worth sharing here as well.

Yes, everything was prototyped in Frosted Extreme Detail at Shapeways. Most high-end 3D printing companies I found were boasting a 25nm-per-layer process, but Shapeways new Frosted Extreme uses a 16nm-per-layer process. At the scale I'm going for, every little bit helps, and even at 16nm there are still surface issues that require addressing. But even with those issues, the level of detail in the prints is astounding. If you follow their design guidelines for the material it will faithfully replicate even the tiniest details that are 0.1mm tall/wide/deep; however, 0.1mm is the absolute limit and I found that keeping details to at least 0.25mm to 0.3mm to be perfect. For example, the thinnest layering I would do would be 0.25mm tall (in some rare situations, maybe 0.2mm or 0.15mm) so that the edge is reasonably pronounced, but still subtle. The best size I've found for small rivets is 0.3mm in diameter; large enough to be properly pronounced, but small enough to fit even tiny locations.

I am still researching alternative printing companies (Suggestions from readers are most welcome) that can achieve the high quality results that my standards demand, and isn't obscenely expensive. But most I've found use a process that require the addition of support sprues in plastic which need to be considered and then removed once the print is finished. While Shapeways process has some drawbacks with the wax-support method they use, the advantages of being able to print multi-part items and not have to deal or worry about supporting sprues is quite nice.

Prepping for mould making was an interesting learning curve. As I've mentioned, in many cases the frosted surface is not really a problem for surface quality, (paint should hide any slight 'grain') but it is a rough texture that has more surface area to bond with the rubber during curing. In tight locations with fine details that can easily tear the rubber during de-moulding. So, I simply use all of the studio tools I've collected over the years to sand and refine the surface. The key tools are sanding sticks, fine sanding points, my Grobet jewellers files, some metal sculpting tools, and a selection of pins for really tight cracks. All of these are used to sand and burnish the surfaces to remove the topmost layer of 'grain' and smooth/refine the surface; it will remain frosted and matt, but have a smoother finish. The material is extremely hard (and reasonably brittle) and it works well for this process; once the offending surface material is remove, and you hit solid plastic, it is very obvious. With a light touch it's almost impossible to go too far and do unwanted surface damage. Depending on the amount of frosted surface you're dealing with, and just how detailed the object is, it can take quite a bit of labour, but for a casting prototype it's worth it.

The final step is to be sure to oil tear-prone areas with deliberate care. When I did my first moulds I was generous with the mould release and even took the time to really get it in the nooks-and-crannies, but it wasn't enough. Those details need to be surface prepped (to smooth the surface as much as possible) and a thicker layer of mould release added by brush. I've taken to spraying a small amount of Mann Ease Release 300 onto a pallet, picking that up with a brush, and applying it were needed. This oils the area much more and produces a notably shinier surface that will release the rubber much more readily. NOTE: Once the master prototype is out of the mould and you are casting in polyurethane plastic (aka: resin) the part with free itself from the mould *much* easier, and special care is not required anymore.


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## Kreuger

Awesome update! Looking forward to the results!


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## Iraqiel

Nice work so far on that Ram, it's looking suitably bulky and mean!


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## Subtle Discord

*Chaos Raiper Platform (Counts-As)*

A larger update to talk more about surface quality is planned, now that I have a broader selection of cast parts in hand. Even with these parts, it's hard to say what the final results will be with a few layers of paint. But until then, I'm so pleased with how the Chaos Rapier is turning out, I just wanted to leave this right here...









Initial production results of the Ectoplasma Cannon have proven to be very positive; manufacture may commence.

There's still one small complication in manufacturing the chassis on this kit that's causing some minor flaws, but I'll elaborate on that when I have more time and pictures to explain properly. Some honest feedback will be appreciated.


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks, as always, for all the kind words and positive feedback; I really wouldn't be where I am without the energy I get from Legion Rising. There's so much I want to write about, but still much to do. So I'll just leave this here for now...









Initial production samples have passed inspection. Assembly lines for the Conversion Beamer are now operational. Praise be to the Dark Mechanicus!


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## Kreuger

Man, that's just gorgeous.


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## GrimzagGorwazza

Everytime I look at this log my wallet screams at me. My white panthers are hassling me to buy loyalist armour sets for both their land raiders (though i'll have to modify one set to fit the Achilles) and if you do make a loyalist version of the ram they want those as well. 
*Over his shoulder*There I told him, now will you please put that lighter down and release the grots.


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## Subtle Discord

Ok then, I’ve been out of the studio for most of the weekend so I haven’t been able to do anything hands-on; but I’ve had a computer, lots of prepared photographs, and some time in the evenings to be able to write. So, I’m going to do a few articles and some general musings about various things. In fact, I’ve been asked several questions in various corners of the interweb, and had so many comments I’d like to reply to, that I’m just going to ramble and comment/answer to everything across said articles.

First up, a little hobby how-to; I was asked recently if I could take a photo of my pressure chamber and vacuum chamber setup that I use for casting, and I figured I could do one better. Recently I put together a new pressure chamber and was aware enough to remember to take progression photos of the process so I could show the steps involved.

However, before I get started, I just want to remind people that this device can be extremely dangerous if not properly assembled and no shortcuts should be taken when building something like this. If you do not have the correct tools/parts on-hand to do this kind of project properly, do not attempt this! During my research I’ve seen examples online that are essentially bombs waiting to go off, because people try to make due with improvised solutions to problems. Do this right, or just don’t do it. Pressure is a tool, and some tools can be dangerous if you don not show proper care and respect.









A ‘Power Fist’ (Gotta’ love that brand name) brand Paint Pressure Tank along with various fittings that will be used during assembly.

In Canada our equivalent to Harbour Freight is called Princess Auto, and that is where I purchased the Paint Pressure Pot that I used for this assembly; this tank has the added benefit of including a 1/4” hose and a 3/8” hose along with pictured pressure regulator. This is definitely a ‘made in China’ product in quality, but its job is simple so that’s not a huge deal. Notice that this tank has a working pressure of 50psi and a max pressure of 80psi; it is highly recommended to stay within the working pressure range of any tank you use. With hoses included you only need a selection of NPT (National Pipe Threads) to complete the assembly; note that NPT fittings are used because they are tapered and become air-tight as they tighten down. The selection of fittings shown here is more than I used in this assembly, but what is required might be different depending on the Paint Pressure Tank used.

One key pair of parts to note are the valves; be sure to get good quality high pressure ball valves. Lesser valves will struggle of hold the kinds of pressures that will be used. These valves are rated for 600psi, so they will do the trick.









First up, the Regulator needs some modification before it’s ready for its new life pressurizing curing plastics.

This Paint Pressure Tank splits the compressed air between the tank and the hose used to spray the paint, and that won’t be needed for its new life. First I remove the connector for the secondary hose and replace it with a brass plug. Note that I have secured the regulator in a vice to keep it secure during the removal of the connector; all of the pieces are secured very well at the factory and you want to keep those seals enacted if you can.

I use LokTite 242 to secure the fittings. The product is intended to secure nuts and bolts so they don’t loosen due to things like vibration, but it also works well to seal the joins airtight as well. You’ll want to be liberal and add a fair amount to the threads to ensure a good seal; once you’re done fastening the pieces in place some extra LocTite oozing out of the join will be a good sign that you’ll get a good seal.









Now one of the valves needs to be added to the regulator to control in compressed air input.

With the provided fittings in place, it’s a simple matter of adding the valve, and then adding a male quick-release fitting for connecting the hose. With that the regulator is ready to go.









How everything attaches to the chamber will be key; clearance must be considered so that the closing clamps can work as intended.

In this case I wanted to point the exhaust vent upward to keep it as compact as possible, so I simply added a 90 degree elbow to the provided fitting before adding the second ball valve. A top-down photo shows the kind of layout you’re looking for; reasonably balanced in weight and with good clearance for the closing clamps. A thick pad of cloth is secured over the valve to reduce the harshness of the sound when the pressure is released.









Two final simple steps completes the transformation from Paint Pressure Tank to a Casting Pressure Chamber, from boring to downright sophisticated.

This first step I really should have done before attaching any hardware to the lid; it’s much easier to do when there is less bulk on the top of the lid to deal with, but I overlooked it in the rush to get the hardware together. Put simply, you need to remove the pipe that would originally be used to feed paint from the tank to the spray hose. By hand, I was unable to break the seal they archived on this pipe to properly remove it, so I used a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to chop it off.

A final step is to add a 90 degree elbow fitting to the vent that will direct the pressurized air into the tank. The air will be entering the tank as such high speed that any exposed liquids (in the form of uncured resin or rubber) could splatter and spray. The likelihood of this being a large problem very often is small, but it doesn’t take much to direct the air towards the wall of the chamber to it can be deflected as it enters.

In the end this 50psi pressure chamber cost about $200 CAD to put together including all of the fittings, valves, shipping, and taxes. Not exactly cheap, but not over-the-top expensive either and more than enough to have a profound impact on the quality of casting a hobbyist might be doing. In comparison, and because I was asked about both my Pressure and Vacuum setup, these are the other contraptions I use in my humble studio.









To the left a Rotokinetics Vacuum Chamber and beside it is a Casting Pressure Chamber rated for 80psi; plus a photo of all of the misfits in a row.

Vacuum Pumps are expensive, so to start I choose it purchase a Vacuum Chamber that has a solid-state vacuum pump that is driven with compressed air; this chamber lets my compressor do double duty powering both pressure and vacuum processes. While I strongly feel that pressure is a better first step for someone looking to improving casting quality, adding vacuum to the mix can really improve casting further.

Note the difference in build quality of the 80psi Pressure Chamber that I put together; this is a made in the USA product and it shows, but it also cost more than double to build than the 50psi chamber. The additional 30psi does have a modest impact on further reducing bubbles in casting, so I use this chamber as much as I can for high detail objects, and it has me wanting to put together a chamber that can handle 120+psi just to see how far it can be taken. At this point most of the bubbles I deal with are so small that I don’t think much more than 120psi would be needed to get near perfect casts almost all of the time. But for now I can make excellent progress with I’ve managed to assemble so far.

On a related side note, pressurizing the rubber for moulds during curing will have the same bubble eliminating effect (I very good thing) but anything over 40psi should yield the same results; bubbles in mould rubber appear to get ‘absorbed’ more readily than in resin.

And with that I’ll say, stay tuned for some studio transparency and another look onto my workbench. While there are many things working out well, I have come into a few snags that will impact quality in some rare cases, and a few issues that will require redesign and/or reprinting that will cause a few delays. Initial stocks of the Chaos Rapier (new name to be determined shortly) are ready, but I want to get some honest feedback from the people that really matter regarding some of the final small issues I’ve run into.

Keep the radio of your PipBoy tuned to this station, and Please Stand By…

(Fallout 4, you will ruin my life for a short while, when you arrive)


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## Subtle Discord

First up, more semi-random babbling about various things that have been asked or wish to comment about. Over the years I’ve made people swear at me (in a good way), deem themselves unworthy (you are, we all start somewhere – build something!), call me crazy (in a good way), and otherwise give me very positive feedback to what I can do. I always contended that I prefer the term eccentric, since it makes me sound interesting and wealthy  but I do recognize that it takes a certain kind of ‘unique’ to do what I do. I’m glad the designs I come up with resonate with people, and I really do appreciate the great feedback and input; it’s a conscious effort that I try to follow a design language with the work I’m creating and I’m glad it shows.

While I finished several great kits this summer, (more still working their way through production) there were several others that I couldn’t get to as planned. To those who were interested in seeing bulk trims, the Jetbike, and the Storm Raven extension, in particular, know that they are on deck and I’m going to do my best to try and get progress on them as time permits. As usual, this is also only the beginning but I’m still learning much as I go; now that I’ve had a taste of digital creation and have a better understanding of what to expect I plan on doing so… much… more… Stay tuned.

This extends to Loyalist kits and ultimately other factions. While Chaos will always be my first calling and be the primary focus of my studio while I gain momentum, Loyalist kits will increase considerably over the coming months and years. I hope to branch into other races once I’m done with college and turn my focus to really pushing the studio to the next level. This could mean kits by my own hand and/or work done by commission or collaboration with other talented individuals. But that’s still a way off, and another story for another time.

It’s been mentioned a few times that Forge World should give me a job, but unless I move to London I don’t think that will be happening anytime soon; it’s my understanding everything is designed and prototyped in-house in London. I understand that it’s usually meant as a joke, or only semi-serious, but there is a part of me that would really enjoy being able to do work that is ‘official’. I think GW is cutting themselves off from a world of talent and maybe when I’m done college there’s some way I could make them see that. Wishful thinking? More than likely, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. The down side of actually achieving official status could very well be loss of creative control, so there is another side that reminds that sometimes you need to be careful what you wish for. Well, I’ve rambled enough, so let’s get to the meat of this post; the good, the bad, and the ugly (as it were) of where I’m at today.









Shapeways knows how to pack an order, that’s for sure.

When the box arrive I though there must be some kind of mistake, it seemed far too large for my order. I had ordered several pieces, but they were mostly very small. Once I started digging in I found they had individually wrapped each-and-every piece, no matter the size.









The Frosted Extreme Detail print process from Shapeways comes with a few technical considerations when being used to make casting prototypes.

The first I’ve already spoken about; where the wax that is used to support the object during printing comes in contact with the object, there is a noticeable ‘frost’ as the name suggests. On most surfaces and locations it’s actually not that bad and seems subtle enough to vanish under paint. The second is a very noticeable layering on two opposing sides of any object that is most pronounced on sheer vertical surfaces; this seems to be some limitation of the print process and most noticeable on flat vertical surfaces. When the surface has a grade or a curve the problem becomes much more reduced and becomes reasonable, but it is quite strange. What I have also noticed is that surfaces that suffer from this and also come in contact with the wax will get a much coarser ‘frost’ that benefits from being gently sanded to refine and improve the finish.

Finally, the material is very hard and tough; scraping with tools and scrubbing with a steel wire brush does no damage but cleans the surface well. However, it is reasonably brittle. While it will hold up well to being scrubbed and sanded to refine the surface, dropping an item on a hard floor will many times cause items to break. Case and point, the poor barrels for the Auto Cannon unfortunately fell and were ruined. I couldn’t believe it when it happened; they are reasonably small and you would think they wouldn’t hit with such force. A replacement will be printed, but it is going to delay the release of this weapon system. All weapons will be offered separately, so these will be available in the near future once a replacement arrives. A few other parts will require a redesign (more on that in a moment) and thus a reprint, so this will be joining them.









Notoriously difficult to photograph, here I’ve tried to show the frosting at its worse.

It effected the missile racks so badly that it made me actually come up with a far superior design that should solve my original problem (mould rubber around the edge of the missiles in tubes is so delicate that it wears out very quickly – the ‘frosting’ texture would only make that worse) and make the moulds last much longer, but also make a more versatile kit. Instead of making it on one piece I’ll do the missiles as a layer, and then a keyed plate with holes in it will be placed over. The way the launcher assembles will make the join all but invisible, and it will make it easy to remove a few missiles to simulate a weapon that has fired some of its payload. This change has delayed the new Havoc Launchers, but the final kits will improved for it

Center you can see the bad kind of ‘frosting’ on a flat surface straight from Shapeways, and you can see it actually glitters it is so coarse. To the right that surface has been scrubbed with a wire brush and washed; while the surface is improved and very smooth, it is also quite rough with a noticeable coarseness under the fingernail. On broad flat surfaces like this a simple sanding and filing will quickly make the surface acceptable. If there is more detail it naturally becomes more work.









While it does look interesting in the mould rubber, the translucent nature of the material is actually quite frustrating.

Not really understanding just how much of an impact the ‘frosting’ would have on my processes I tried to make moulds as with my own prototypes. This quickly turned bad as the moulds were prone to tearing during de-moulding of the prototype. Not being able to get a good idea what the surface was like came back to haunt the first cast; the quality was just not good enough. The top layer of banding in the far right shows the coarse layering and how badly it can effect a surface. Below are surfaces that have been ‘frosted’ with the wax support material; again, it was just a bit too rough to be acceptable. So, while the mould being torn wasn’t a good thing, it gave me an opportunity to clean things up before trying again.









Ok, let’s get to the one issue I’m having with the Rapier Platform. It’s driving me nuts.

Put simply, The edges of the tracks are being beyond stubborn, and it’s really annoying when _every other part_ of the kit is casting so perfectly. And I do mean *every* part. Everything I’ve tried with the current mould will not remove the last couple of bubbles on the track. So, in my usual effort for transparency I’m just giving an idea of the minor flaws that will be unavoidable in these kits while I get a different mould setup to try another idea.









 The flaws are minor on an assembled platform, and I’m sure I can hear people yelling to not worry about it and get the damn kits up for sale!

But, you wouldn’t like the kits I make if I wasn’t as particular as I am. After everything I’ve tried to eliminate these flaws I’ve just learned to accept them for now. While I have only planned on these three weapon systems originally, I can’t see why I couldn’t also do other weapons over time. I can’t promise a time line, but I can say it’s possible at some point.

For now, these prototypes need to start returning on their investment so I can start doing more! These will be up for sale in the next day or so, along with the Siege Ram for the Land Raider. The Chaos Rapier chassis and weapons will be sold separately so you can have a choice to have them individually for projects or together as built by the studio. Other kits will start appearing as I work out final issues and get replacement parts. The smaller bits will start turning up once the larger kits have been sorted and can start generating some capitol to invest in more rubber and plastic. They are great little bits, but they need to wait while the large kits get finished.

Thanks as always for reading, and I look forward to do much more in future. For now, my classes will be starting soon so studio time will again become very limited. But with the new tools at my disposal that continue to grow and develop, there will always be something in the works. Please Stand By…


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## Kreuger

Stellar work as always! I'd say I'm sorry to hear about the problems, but I suspect they will just make you an even better caster and fabricator. 

And yes, be careful what you wish for. It's a very different thing being the creative force as opposed to carrying out directions.


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## Iraqiel

Thanks so much for sharing this with us mate, it's really great to see the process behind your awesome designs and creations.


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## Subtle Discord

*Enter, the Spartan, stage left*

Thanks, as always for the positive support everyone. While not my intended update, I've got *in his best Prof. Farnsworth voice* "Good new everyone!" and I figured it wouldn't hurt to share.

Thanks again Malika, I always appreciate input. While that conversation seems more about dealing with the wax residue (an issue if you plan to paint SW prints directly) I'm more interested in improving the surface quality or avoiding poor surface quality in the first place. Since casting prototypes are usually treated with an oily release agent for the process, the oily/waxy residue from SWs process is not an issue.

Also, let me just answer some questions from another corner of the interweb... For niche models that I would have a hard time getting to, I plan to do Bulk Trim packs that provide several lengths of trim, some with a few corners, some with faction suitable motifs (arrows, blades, lightning, skulls, shields, open fields, etc., etc.), and lots of long lengths. They will require the end builder to cut the strips to length and do a little cleanup work where they meet at corners, but that seems much better then trying to scratch build it all. Trim kits for specific chassis, where it makes sense, will also continue to be designed.

The Loricatus Mk.I _will_ be replaced. It puts me in a catch-22; it's a popular kit that I want to replace, but it also takes a considerable amount of rubber for the moulds. If I'm going to pour that much rubber, I would like to update the kit to include some of the many improvements I've made to my studio. It's going to be worth it (it'll be amazing, just wait and see) but that means it'll be more time before I can get the prototypes done. This project (and others like it) will happen; more on what I'm eluding to later. Hint: think super modular, giving the builder the freedom to mix-and-match more.









Warmaster, the production and trade negotiations of The Works have proven beneficial; our Mechanicus are pleased to have secured a Spartan battle tank, a true relic of the Long War for the Legion armoury. Reverse engineering of key subsystems has already commenced.

After dealing with most of the major expenses that the studio created over the summer, I felt it was safe to take advantage of Forge World's free shipping offer for Sept; and wouldn't you know it, the Spartan was just the right price to meet the minimum limit. One part early birthday present, one part studio investment seems like a reasonable mix.

I've had so much interest and requests for doing kits for the Spartan and Sicaran it seemed like a logical addition to the studio; I simply can't build for something without the actual model to take precise measurements and do test fitting. But, thanks to those who have offered; know that there might be a future role for people like you in my large plans - but I digress, for now.

Because I recognize the base cost of a FW model, kits for FW models in particular will focus on being more efficient. In fact, the form and level of detail on these tanks makes all but necessary to keep additions less elaborate. There just aren't the same long uninterrupted lines like the stock Land Raider and Rhino chassis. So, this will reduce the mould count, and therefor the cost of these kits. Cermite/Extra Armour and 'Dozer/Destroyer Blades are the first ideas that come to mind, but I have other voices whispering concepts all the time...

My first impression of the kit is one of sheer awe; in both raw mass and level of detail, the Spartan delivers. While the Sicaran and Fire Raptor are both amazing looking kits there are issues and elements with both (build fit issues mostly, but some details) that don't appear to be the same with the Spartan. I won't know until I actually assemble it, but it appears to have a much cleaner fit and less warping than any other large FW kit I've received. The details are also just a bit more refined and polished all around; nothing that makes other kits inferior, but it just seems like whoever make the prototype really did it right and took their time.

It will also be effective as a lethal weapon for home defense once assembled; each of the side chassis components that mount the tracks are a massive solid block of resin. The fact that they were able to do a piece so large without it warping in some way is impressive in of itself. For as large and bulky as it is, the footprint of the tank (without the center hull that adds the 'beak') is surprisingly close to that of a stock Land Raider. Naturally, I will document the building of this when it starts. I've already done the same for the Fire Raptor progress, so know that I've more than a few things up my sleeves for future updates.

The signal may go weak sometimes, but signal never stops...


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## Subtle Discord

*Subtle tosses an image out from under the rock of higher education*

_Sometimes_, I get free choice in what I can do for a college project, and since I do so many 'consumer items' most of the time, I like to have a chance to do something unique but still relevant. This time I was aloud to do _this_ for my Solidworks course.









At this point all I can say is... It's a solid! It's a SOLID! It turns out making a Solid Body from Surfaces is actually a little tricky. This damn helmet as been hard, but I'm starting to get it!

Unlike everything I've 3D modeled up to this point, this was done almost completely with Lofted and Swept Surfaces, not Solid Bodies. By using a Surface and then Knitting the resulting form together you can much get more control over complex forms. This helmet was created from a set of 2D drawings (Top, Side, and Front) that was extrapolated from the flat drawings. Needless to say, It's given me a respect for what surfaces can do, and being only my first try, I can already tell that with more practice I should be able to do all sorts of interesting forms. My future Jetbike project will be even better now that I have a better idea how this works.

There are a few more layers of detailing that will go on this helmet before it needs to be rendered, but I'm pleased with the progress. I'll be sure to show it again when it's even further along and/or finished. Maybe someday I'll re-scale it (it's roughly life size at this point) and have it rapid prorotyped so I can paint it as a bust. I could never sell it, but as a personal piece I could make one.

But, for now I have to put this aside while I shift focus to another project. ~21 days until Winter Break...


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## Subtle Discord

Fee-fi-fo-fum!










... ... ...


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## Subtle Discord

... I smell the blood of an Englishmun.










... ... ...


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## Subtle Discord

... Be he alive, or be he dead.









... ... ...


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## Subtle Discord

... I'll grind his bones to make my bread.










More pictures and many more words to come, when I have more time. All these photos obscure how much other crap I need to get done, but I _needed_ some bench time, or I was going to lose my mind.

Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast.
~ Ace Rimmer


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## Kreuger

Tantalizing!


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## Subtle Discord

In the immortal words of professor Hubert J. Farnsworth, "Good news, everyone!"

But as with this signature phrase, it comes with a bit of a catch; thankfully nothing as suicidal as most 'Good news' Planet Express delivery missions. I shall elaborate...

So, I was able to poke my nose out from under the rock of higher learning, take a little time to do some building, and take a few teaser photos of some of things brewing in the background. But, as much as I want to get the studio back up-and-running I've been a bit stuck because of a school obligation. Between 3rd and 4th year (my current position) students are required to do an internship that ties into the Industrial Design field. So, as much as the studio is calling, for several weeks I've been looking, quite unsuccessfully, for summer employment.

I'd tried twice already to see if my studio could qualify considering what I'm doing and what I have planned for the future, but the program has somewhat specific (and dated) requirements, and I wasn't fully explaining just how developed my small studio is. So finally, after explaining with a little more depth (ok I rambled... a little... _emphatically_) a third time yesterday I was given tentative permission to use hours in my studio towards the obligation for the program. Details still need to be clarified and verified, and I will still need to try and find some other work to add additional hours if I can, but a massive barrier to spending any time in my studio should now be lifted. "And there was much rejoicing! ... Yay!" ~ Monty Python

As I said, this is a bit of a mixed blessing; while I get what I wanted and can work in my studio, it also means I'll need to stay motivated and avoid any wasted time. It's still not clear exactly what will be expected as proof of progress and development, as it were, so I'm still careful not to celebrate too much. Deep down I know I have a ton of work cut out for me no matter what, so at least I think I have a realistic grasp of what I'm getting into. Odds are I'm overthinking things as usual, but I'll have a better idea by next week when things are clarified by my program coordinators.

So, put simply, expect some long overdue updates very soon; I have several articles that have photos done, I just need to finish the copy for them, so expect to see those soon. For anyone waiting on a restock for the shop; I can now invest serious time without it being counter productive so I'll be on this over then next week or more. For those who are interested in some of my new designs; as with casting, studio time is now 'official' and I can invest resources in getting them into production. And finally, I think I can find a way to squeeze some army build/paint time into all of this so expect some progress on that as well.

Lots more to come. So much so, I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out where to start, now that I'm actually _aloud_ to start. I think this might require a bit of a reorganization of the studio space. Some new equipment I got this winter (another story for another time) has really thrown a cramp into how the shop is arranged. It's harder to function in a dysfunctional space, after all.

Please, stand by...


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## Kreuger

Right on man! Be careful what you wish for. =)


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## Subtle Discord

*The Dark Mechanicus Arrive*

With a bit of hobby time to scratch a deep itch (more on that in a bit, and across future articles to come) and my studio finally in a state of almost respectable organization, it’s time to get The Dark Works going again. First up, some of my usual ramble to answer some questions and make some comments based on replies taken from all of my Legion Rising threads.


First, it’s been mentioned, quite wisely, that I should be sure to get my recent agreement with my college in writing to make sure any time spent isn’t wasted. Since, as far as I know, I’ll be the first to do their own studio/company for the required hours I’ve been sure to take this sage advice and I’ve already got things written up, signed, and sent off. I’ll know more this week. I’ve been at my college long enough to have a bit of an idea how things can be, and I’ll work hard to make sure things work out in the end. And trust that after consideration I’ve concluded that the studio wins regardless, (more on this at the end of the summer) so I’m happy with how things are headed, no matter the outcome. Thanks as always, to everyone who is offering suggestions and support for my progress. It’s always useful and appreciated.


It’s also been asked if I have any plans on doing non-Chaos weapon systems (sponsons and turrets, for example) and I can say it’s not out of the question. Some specialized/unique weapons seem like good places to start, but time will tell just what I will tackle. It does touch on the fact that most future kits will have Chaos and Loyalist versions; it won’t be for every kit, some will be faction exclusive, but many will get both versions. While my corruption is complete, and Chaos will always be my first calling, I’ll be doing much more Loyalist work in the future; hopefully starting this summer.


Unfortunately, most of the builds I have shown in my recent photos won’t be getting painted any time soon. It’s a bitter sweet necessity however, because it means that the models can be used in the studio to produce kits for the Works, so that’s worth the sacrifice of needing to wait to paint them. On a related point, I now have a new Land Raider kit, so I’ll _finally_ be able to assemble and paint my current Land Raider that’s been in my collection for far too many years. I suspect that I’ll need to do a squad of Terminators that are also looong overdue to ride inside, when the time comes to get some paint on it, so stay tuned for that at some point. I’m still trying to decide if I want to give the ‘Raider some significant, but not crippling, battle damage for some variety; maybe even magnetize a section of the armour so it can swap out the damaged part for a intact one. Humm… might be on to something…


So yes, as the photos allude, the Sicaran, Spartan, and Fire Raptor are all in various stages of completion and will soon be ready for use for developing studio kits. I can’t say they will all get kits this summer, but given how tricky some of them are to build… *Subtle glares at the near-finished Fire Raptor with mix of malice, contempt, and pride* getting them assembled cleanly is a critical first step. But first up, one small diversion before a new personal project.


After a hobbyist was nice enough to post a picture of a formation of my Mor’ses weapon platforms, a request was made for a photo of the platforms beside some models for scale. They were nice enough to provide the requested photo, but it got me thinking it couldn’t hurt to do a nice studio photo for some scale reference.










Unfortunately, I still haven’t had time to do more then give it one coat of black paint. The Marines are on 25mm bases.


This also brings up a point that I’ve been considering recently; going forward I’m going to try to produce accompanying body components to match kits that warrant them. Most of the time this will mean a set of legs in an appropriate pose and/or hands (maybe a complete arm) gripping and/or operating the equipment. In this case, while I’ve created an ample standing platform and was very careful in trying to create a good height for the control panel, trying to build a model to fit with the existing kit is more work than it needs to be; a few made-to-fit body parts would make it much more straight forward to build.


So, that’s something old, so now on to something new; a kit bashing, converting, and casting project, presented by Subtle Discord…










My first major purchases outside of the Chaos faction since I started collecting/building/painting Chaos over twenty years ago. Naturally, they will be turned to chaotic purposes.


Since their release, I’ve always been frustrated that GW choose to only produce Chaos Cultists as a limited selection of snap-fit models with static poses. If you like the look, the starter set models are great, but I’ve always thought a multi-part kit would sell exceptionally well for GW (considering the number of Cultists you generally need/want to field) and I wondered why they never created a multi-part kit.


I dislike glaring repetition in a collection in general; in a very structured and maintained army it makes more sense, but at the very least I still want the option to have some control over pose to add variety. In an army like Chaos, where less structure is to be expected, blatant repetition is a real detracting factor to me. I don’t need huge changes for each model, but a little flexibility and some interchangeable options is much preferred, and the more the better. Being able to change poses and mix-and-match interchangeable parts for variety… “It’s a good thing!” ~ M. Stewart.


Originally my list included standard Chaos Cultists from the CSM Codex, but once I had a copy of IA:13 I have since changed that to an allied detachment of Chaos Renegades; slightly more expensive, but they bring _many_ more useful options to the table. Since I’ve long wanted to add some kind of representation for the Dark Mechanicus who are in service to my Warband, this seemed like a good opportunity. Pictured above is the Renegade Mechanicus Command Squad with a Command Net Vox, built from the stock Skitarii Ranger/Vanguard kit; being some of GWs newer work they stand very well on their own without modification.


The Demagogue will be given the Bloody-handed Reaver devotion to represent the improved equipment and training this force has access to; this devotion gives the Demagogue a Refractor Field, the option to equip certain squads with proper Flak Armour, forces you to buy Militia Training (+1 WS & BS) on any squads that can take it, and provides the option to upgrade certain squads with Hot-shot Las weapons. For me, this will do a good job of representing a Mechanicus Militia, and the ‘tax elements’ aren’t too steep for what you get.










With some kit bashing and a little conversion work I was able to get a nice selection of posable bits to mix-and-match for variety.


The torso of the Astra Militarum required some simple but key changes to make this project work. With all of the extra heads provided by the Skitarii box, it’s an obvious place to start. To me, the head of a model being placed on a proper ball-joint is key to giving the builder a lot of freedom in the pose of a miniature; just a simple turn and tilt of the head can completely change the intent and look of a model, even with no other changes. With some careful shaving, drilling, and filing, I was able to create a seat that fit the Skitarii heads quite nicely.


Originally I didn’t have plans to add backpacks to the models, but looking at the packs in the Skitarii box got me thinking, and after some test fits I quickly came around to the idea of adding them. A little styrene work produced some suitable mounting points for the backpacks and finished the torsos.


Every single Autopistol I could harvest from a Dark Vengeance set, plus a few more, were attached to the AM arms to provide some variety while still being consistent. Also, I wanted them to carry gladius’ or some kind of short swords over a smaller knives, so I used Chaos Marine combat weapons for their larger size. The hands intended for the special weapons in the AM kit proved especially suited for making a convincing combat weapon hand; once chopped off at the wrist I could add them to arms in different poses to add more variety.










I’m very pleased with the outcome of these changes; particularly the addition of the backpacks. I think they complete the model nicely while reinforcing the Mechanicus theme.


In the final models I’ve removed the tops of the antennas and the dangling bits from the packs to have them appear more subordinate and make them easier to work with. Combined with the added helmet I think they provide a much needed dose of detail to the older Cadian models.










But the star of the project has to be the variety that results from the combination of the final components.


With a combination of bits sourced online, leftover bits, and select parts I can cast for myself, I can put together 20-30 of these Dark Mechanicus Militia with an acceptable level of variety for reasonable amount of effort and expense.


From a fluff perspective, I see it as a lesser Mechanicus force that enjoys the reasonably standardized and maintained equipment their faction can provide. I picture them being selected only from manufactorum workers who are particularly capable (or perhaps violent) and those who are born into service, never slave workers; having never known anything but service in the factories they would have a slightly higher standing and likely be loyal. Being internal workers does well to explain the lack of cybernetics too. And, not that they’d have much choice, but I think most would welcome the chance at Militia service if only to leave the factory and see the actual sky, if only once, before they die.


However, even with the added Militia training, having been sheltered in the factories will make them somewhat unpredictable on the real battlefield; for me, this ties in well with the random Leadership value that Chaos Renegade squads need to contend with.










Eager to see the final look, I’ve done a little test painting. I’m try to keep the scheme simple so I don’t lose my mind painting 30+ of these at a time.


By keeping the scheme to Black, Blue, and Silver, I can use a simple single Black Wash to get the desired depth. A quick overall wash does most of the work, and then some selective application in select spots finishes that step quickly. While I want the cloth to keep the dark Blue-Black tone I achieved, I think I’m going to add just a bit more highlight to bring out a little more punch to the Blue. It still has one more layer if detailing and highlighting to go, but I’m completely happy with the result so far. This scheme should preserve my sanity when it comes time to paint it in bulk.


Ok, that’s it for this wall-o’-text-and-photos. I’ve been trying my best to remember to photograph my progress as I’ve been building my most recent kits, so I have build articles for (In no particular order) the Raptor, Spartan, and Sicaran coming up in the near future. Along with perhaps some other projects that may crop up if I’m so inspired.


I find myself forever caught between the four forces that pull me in opposite directions; designing and creating new prototypes for kits, mould making and casting, building and painting, and writing articles about all of it. I enjoy each aspect so it can be hard to change focus when one of them in particular is calling. So, for now I shift my focus to production and I’ll start casting some much needed stock so I can generate some more capitol to make some of my many future plans possible.


Summer is finally here! More to come over the coming weeks and months. And as always, comments, questions, input, and critic, are always welcome. Thanks for reading.


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## Kreuger

Looking good man. 

Please give us a shout when your restock. I had been holding off because I have so many other projects waiting and with grad school and family I wasn't getting to any of it.


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## Medic Marine

Like the simple design, looks sharp and dark. 
Particular the highlights to the sleeves of the model. Subdue weapons make the uniform really pop out.


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## Subtle Discord

And now, for another instalment of… _Tales of *Interest!*_


Along with other projects that I have eluded to in earlier posts (more on those, and others, when time permits in the future) I mentioned that I might get distracted with some other ideas I’ve had bouncing around inside my brain. Unfortunately I suffer from a bit of self-diagnosed O.C.D. (Shocker! I know…) when it comes to the act of creation; sometimes an inspiration will take hold, and I’m virtually powerless to stop myself from working on the idea, even if it’s not necessarily what I had planned. I’ve learned that it’s usually best not to fight it unless there is something critical that needs to be dealt with instead. It’s that uncontrollable need to make and create that defines an artist or designer in my opinion; it’s one thing to like to be creative and enjoying making things, but it’s another when there’s something in your psyche that completely compels you to do so.


Most, dare I say all, ideas evolve. Some more than others, but I learned long ago that it’s almost always better to give ideas some time to explore and mature; and school had helped to reinforce and hone this process. I can’t think of a single time that giving a project a few days/weeks/months of reflection didn’t improve the final outcome. Sometimes it’s through necessity, because something needs to fit, function, or a specific form, and sometimes it’s more cosmetic where certain visual elements need to be looked at with fresh eyes and tweaked to get the best looking results. There’s a healthy dose of each in these new projects.


In turn, it’s also possible for it to go the other way, and you need to be careful that you don’t overthink an idea and spend too much time contemplating. Having creativity turn to procrastination for one reason or another is still a trap I struggle with from time-to-time. Being more aware of how/when it’s being helpful or hindering the process has been an interesting learning experience. I don’t guilt myself when I put something aside as I may have in the past, but I also don’t let myself off and have too many things lost in limbo as I refine them. These were a couple of ideas I finally chose to resurrect and hammer home reasonably quickly.










I while back I had shown a proof-of-concept for some tea-lights being used to create glowing Objective Markers.


While the idea worked well to get the stones to glow, there were several technical issues, not the least of which was the size. It’s just too tall. And while there’s a fair bit of wasted space in these lights there is an issue with trying to stack a shell, the battery, connectors, a switch, and the LED and keep it low profile. I discovered an interesting alternative LED light that simplified the switch into a screw mechanism and this helped make the unit smaller, but the height was an issue that needed to be dealt with.


After modifying one of the lights to remove as much height as I could possible manage, I fused the top part into a plastic component that gave the assembly a slope. Having no trademark or copyright to worry about, I have no problem using them as the base mechanics this kit will need to make my life easier. 










I kept the final diameter to 2” so I could get as gradual a slope as possible while keeping the size official.


With a little research I found that these twist-on style lights are prolific and come in many colours and varieties. This makes it easy to replace parts and to change the effect to something different. Simple, modular, and customizable. Nothing wrong with that combination at all. 










Happy with the solution for the base, now it needed something to take advantage of that light.


As an added bonus, these little lights work with 1 or 2 batteries. All of these pictures are taken with 1 battery under reasonably bright conditions and the glow is very pronounced. Naturally, with a second battery the effect is considerably brighter. While not necessary, nothing wrong with more options.


The other issue I had with my earlier prototypes was the clear plastic used to cast the glowing stones; the first plastic I used took over 24 hours to cure enough to de-mould, and several more days to become completely hard. A school project earlier this year gave me the opportunity to pick up some Smooth Cast 326, a virtually clear casting resin that colours very well and only takes 1 hour to cure enough to de-mould. While still not very fast, it’s a vast improvement. 










As before, I first primed the stones in white to capture and reflect as much light as possible, then finished with a layer of black.


Much more care was taken to carve the symbols into the stones this time and this helps considerably during the painting. The lines are sharper and much deeper than the first prototypes, so if you spray the primer over them at a sharp angle to the surface, the paint will naturally avoid going into the carved lines. The surfaces get a nice even coat while the lines stay reasonably clean. And once it’s dry the plastic is so hard a dull pin can easily remove any primer that may find its way into the lines, so no real special care is needed to get these primed and ready for basing and paint. 










Here’s a size and height comparison beside some models. While still a little tall, these feel much more plausible as a mound of soil.


I wanted to get some paint, and not just primer, on these but the next project has distracted me too much the last while so I didn’t have a chance yet. Even with just primer I’m completely happy with the new base solution and improved stones. The supplied LEDs slowly shift through a rainbow of colours giving them a very hypnotic ever-changing effect that I’m equally pleased with; I think it lends to the Chaos vibe of the stones, but as I mentioned, with the modular parts the LED hardware can easily be replaced at a reasonable cost if I or the customer chooses to change them.


A future plan for this idea is to create a series of small objects that look like arcane and/or xeno technology; an outer shell that’s just a normal resin cast model surrounding a translucent core component that can transmit the light. Just give the marker a twist and it lights up and glows with some internal power source. 










Considered a while back, I’m not totally sure what compelled me to return to this project now, but it wouldn’t let me go.


While I always like it, the original design I came up with was just too large and complex. The parts would either be too big for me to handle reasonably with my current equipment, or I would need to split everything into too many smaller parts for my liking. Given its shape, I had always wondered if the Vengeance Weapon Battery base could work as a starting point, and I finally gave in and got a kit to try it with.


By refining the design down to save on bulk, minimize parts, and take advantage of a repeating pattern, I’ve brought the idea into the realm of reasonable; but, it’s still going to be the largest kit my studio has produced to date. In this, I’m using it as a testing ground for casting parts of this size; I don’t foresee any serious difficulties, but I still haven’t cast components this large yet, so it’s an excellent project to make sure everything will go as I’m hoping it will.


Being a breakable part that could need replacing, and because of the simple fact that not all Plasma Globes are created equal (cheaper ones will slowly fade over time) I’ve designed the model with a removable top to permit the globe to be replace. 










As before, by integrating only the needed part of the generic globe base, I can seamlessly add the hardware into the model.


By building my form as a tight skin around the required piece of the original base and then filling the void with liquid resin before capping it all in to finish it, any 3” plasma globe with the generic black stair-step style base should have no problem fitting in this base. From there the rest of the parts attach to the Vengeance Battery base to finish the build.


3D modeling is great for designing with the intent of rapid prototyping the model, but college really forced me to scratch build from a 3D model, and it showed me how realistic it is. It takes some extra time to build thin 3D model, but it takes most of the guesswork out of the final model. If an issue does come up, it’s simple to tweak the model to find the solution. Next step is to blend the processes and merge rapid prototyped components into a larger build. 










I’ve also invested in some round rivets cast in styrene, so this seemed a perfect project to try them.


While everything is looking good so far, I’m still a bit nervous. Until I can cast copies of the parts I can’t be 100% sure about the fit. I’m pretty certain I’ve got my build right, but it seems that the Vengeance Battery kit is one that is produced in China for GW, (shame on you GW *shakes head in disappointment*) and I have to say it has an effect on the quality of the model. Visually overall, it’s not bad. Some details are lacking and there are a few surface quality issues, but nothing really bad. But when you get in closer I’ve found that there’s a lack of many tolerances in the model; lines that should be straight are a little off, things that should be symmetrical aren’t quite, and a few other small idiosyncrasies that didn’t show themselves until well into the build.


There’s still a final layer of detail (so… many… rivets…) to go, but it’s in the home stretch. It won’t be long before I can test the fit and put it to rest. I haven’t wasted time detailing the 3D model with anything that isn’t critical to the overall build, so there’s still several other little things that need to be finished. I’ll be out of the studio for a week for a family vacation, so this will be on track once I’m back, and followed, as always, by other projects waiting in the wings.


You read it! You can't *unread* it!


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## Subtle Discord

++++...
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++++++++++Re-establishing Connection...
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++++++++++Interference Level Shift: 0.895 – 0.727 – 0.665
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[Repair Recompile Failure]...d Warmaster. While suffering casualties higher than expected, our final raiding force has returned having secured the targeted tools, construction materials, and Shield Generation Cores. While I hope the success of our primary goals satisfies you and the needs of our current production, I am positive you will be most pleased with the additional find that the Shadowed Hand has seen fit to guide us... [Repair Recompile Failure]...e raids initial defensive resistance was much higher than expected despite the success of our planned distraction. [Repair Recompile Failure]...s unfortunate that we were forced to employ wide-field sonic resonance to speed the securing of target vessels thus rendering most of the potential additional labour spoils to only water and protein reclamation. However, in return transit it became apparent why the defensive actions had been so resolute; strange anomalies in the cargo manifests pointed to something out of the ordinary, and deeper investigation quickly confirmed suspicions. Initially thought to be a single prize, it is my deepest pleasure to inform my Warmaster that we have in fact secured two sacred war engines of the Knight classification. While the encrypted data-wards and failsafe barriers are extremely formidable, and progress in gaining complete access to all subsystems will take some time, merely having the chassis and weapon systems secure in our forges should be worthy of high praise to the Dark Lords who are forever guiding our p... [Repair Recompile Failure]...t appears after initial inspection that the war engines have been partially dismantled to facilitate their transport, leading us to believe that this was an unsanctioned operation. Further decryption of the data recovered will likely revealed a better understanding in the future, and the dismantled state should prove useful during our initial reverse engineering operations.

Further positive reports returned from our other raiding and recovery operations are to follow shortly. While the addition of these glorious engines of war to our armoury has overshadowed other actions, their success should not be overlooked and more comprehensive updates of these efforts will be compiled with haste. Praise to you my Lord Warmaster and the honour of bringing this news to you. +++ ... Mechanicus Crimmins'Thoth - Disciple of the Black Hand - Taker of Names - Scribe to the Book of Thoth: Lost and Dead Returned

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## Subtle Discord

*Obduro Risum*

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Efforts to recover the Relic Sicaran battle tank Obduro Risum - ‘The Last Laugh’ have met with, dare I say… humorous success. After confirmation was made that the chassis was indeed mostly intact, including the primary weapon systems, the extraction force assembled quickly to make what was meant to be a rapid retrieval operation. Shortly after planet fall, upon scouting the resting place of our Relic, it was discovered that Imperial forces were also moving on to the site; while they were ahead of our own force they obviously had also only just arrived. Further reconnaissance quickly confirmed that the Loyalists were there to ensure the destruction of this, our deeply venerated relic of our Long War. Before a more risky frontal assault was considered, council was given by the accompanying Mechanicus and a unique diversionary plan was quickly formulated.

While the war engine had be thoroughly disabled, having thrown both of its track assemblies, and despite the main power subsystems being compromised, rendering the Las’-Cannons inoperable, the communications, control subsystems, and secondary power subsystems were all still functioning. The Mechanicus went about creating a remote access link to the vehicle and silently took control of the dormant war machine. Damage and power limitations meant that the ammunition feeders to the Auto-Cannons were likely non-functional, but the Obduro Risum still had two rounds chambered and ready to fire.

There can be no doubt that the Imperials were stunned when the targeting and tracking systems of the Sicaran main turret sprang to life, just as they moved in to butcher our cherished Relic, and with a smooth turn locked on to the transport hauling their demolition ordinance. To be true to its name the Mechanicus controlling Obduro Risum activated the engine’s external vox, maximized the volume, and gave a satisfying bark of laughter to assail Loyalists before opening fire. Two shells were more than enough to set off the cache in a most spectacular primary explosion that in turn resulted in a series of all-but annihilating secondary detonations. Our recovery forces were met with little resistance as they moved in on the shell-shocked remnants, and quickly secured the site. Some additional damage was suffered by the Obduro Risum in the blast, but the results of the quickly devised plan were more than worth the additional repairs that were required.

Repair and reassembly transcription logs to follow.

+++ Mechanicus Crimmins'Thoth - Disciple of the Black Hand - Taker of Names - Scribe to the Book of Thoth: Lost and Dead Returned +++

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## Subtle Discord

*The Good:* The FW Sicaran Kit proved to be a reasonable build for the most part, except for a few issues in the fit in a few places. The ‘box’ that makes up the main hull went together cleanly, and as always I pinned the assembly as much as possible for added strength and… completely forgot to photograph the progress and results before getting on with adding the side hull components.









While the side hull components seem straight and true enough, they don’t quite fit the hull as cleanly as you might expect.

Being what seems to be a straight forward, mostly flat-surface-on-flat-surface connection, it’s very odd that these parts should have a strange ‘rock’ that creates an odd gap. Close these gaps at the back of the model (which never really aligns as straight as I personally would like) and they become wider in the front; close the gap in the front and the space widens at the back.

I considered adding shims of plastic to build up areas and attempt to compensate for the gaps with some finesse, as it were, but in the name of a my new found effort to avoid being too perfectionist about _every_ detail of my builds, I chose a brute force method instead. After drilling several large pins into specific locations I secured the pins (treated with my texturing technique shown earlier in Legion Rising), applied liberal amounts of Super Glue, and used several clamps that I’ve modified with soft pads for just his kind of job, to squeeze the parts into submission while the glue set. As mentioned, because of the odd fit in the back a few of the gaps are not as narrow as I would ultimately have liked, but they’re not bad enough for me to feel _compelled_ to repair them. I can add some greenstuff to fill the gaps if I’m feeling up to it, but they’re hidden well enough I can also just ignore them. Good enough.









During test fits I was not happy with how closely the turret sat on the hull; the lack of clearance caused the turret to conflict with the hull during rotation.

So, using my handy-dandy circle cutting technique, I went about adding a simple shim of 1.5mm styrene to the turret post. Happy with the results, I found it did… _nothing_ to add any height of the turret; it was now flush with the inside surface of the hull that the post sits in.









So, I went about modifying the hull component a bit to add the desired height.

Adding a second 1.5mm shim to the hull inside the turret post hole, before adding a rectangular plate on the inside finally got the height I was looking for. Naturally, the center points left from the circle cutting process are also perfect for getting magnets mounted perfectly centered.









It’s a small change really, but the turret now avoids any snags so it can now rotate 360⁰ cleanly.

The clearance is still a little tight at points, but it’s a noticeable improvement. The broad smooth plastic plates also give a pleasant amount of friction and make sure the turret is nice and stable, so it doesn’t rock or shift at all. Simple, clean, and effective.









With the main turret and the hull assembled, I turned my attention to the sponsons.

I contemplated for quite a while on a way to make the Las’-Cannons and Heavy Bolter sponsons swappable with magnets using only the supplied parts. But I just couldn’t come up with a solution that wasn’t going to create more work while also creating a weaker attachment because of the smaller magnets that would be necessary. Despite the lack of common sense of having exposed power cabling, I like the visual interest they add and they were just too fiddley to consider a way to make them work with swappable weapons.

My final more straightforward solution works well in my opinion; the sponsons can be cleanly omitted from the model if I want to go without, and when they are added the armor plate can rotate with the movement of the weapon system, which also seems most plausible to me. It’s all but certain that I’ll be adding a second Sicaran to my collection at some point (there’s something about the lines of this chassis that I really like), so I’ll consider then how I can make the sponsons completely swappable when that time comes.









I’m pleased to present the Obduro Risum – ‘The Last Laugh’ in its near-complete built state.

For now, this is a studio asset that will need to do some design work before I can paint it and add it to my personal collection. I have three main studio kits in mind to start; armour plating sets (Loyalist and Chaos) to represent Ceramite Plating and/or Extra Armour, a ‘Dozer Blade and/or Destroyer Blade in the spirit of my Land Raider Siege Ram kit, and some kind of simple Tread Plate kit to add some interest to those bland tracks. All of these kits, and all kits in general, will be designed with Chaos and Loyalist versions, and both 40k and 30k settings in mind, when it makes sense to do so. That’s not to say there won’t be some exclusively Chaos or Loyalist kits, but that will only be in certain circumstances.

As always, the order and timing of these kits is still uncertain. For now I’m focusing on getting key official kits in to my modest studio, assembled to a point that I can use them for accurate measuring, test fitting, and scale comparison, for the kits I plan to produce in the future. With that heavy lifting done I will have the ‘scaffolds’ I need to produce a wide range of kits for The Dark Works.

With that, we come to the end of this, *The Good* chapter of my exploits in building Forge World models. Next up, *The Bad* chapter chronicling my efforts to assemble the Spartan Assault Tank. Followed by, *The Ugly* chapter where I descend into the emotional turmoil that is trying to properly assemble the Fire Raptor Gunship.

Thank you, as always, for your interest (silent or not), feedback, input, critique, and all general musings about what I’m doing. Community support really has been key to me building the confidence to even consider the possibilities that I have before me, and I can’t see that ever changing. Much more to come, and I hope you enjoy hitching long for the ride; I’m glad to have you along!


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## Subtle Discord

In a dark corner of southern Canada. The sound of crickets in the night?

*Rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet...*










*Rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet...* Oh, nope. Subtle is just finishing his detailing.

Almost... finished... the... Shield... Generator... *Rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet... rivet...*


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## Kreuger

Hey @Subtle Discord, these have been great updates. I'm really looking forward to your work as it progresses, and your store once you restock! I haven't been able to justify new hobby expenses for a while but I'm itching to pick up some of yours. 

Onward and upward!


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## Subtle Discord

Take your time Kreuger and pick something up whenever you're ready and can justify the expense. I may go quiet when I'm busy with other things sometimes, but I'm not going anywhere and have every plan to keep producing for the foreseeable future. See that all of my processes are only improving as times passes, procrastination will be good for that fact alone; I'll be making nicer kits by the time you're ready to order. 

Since first showing it, I've had quite a few people show interest in the Shield Generator and its progress. I'm happy to say that all of the prototype components have been completed and mould making has begun. For production it will need several moulds, so it'll take several days to get them all completed; but I should be able to have an assembly update once I have the first set of moulds for repeating parts finished. I'm very eager to see it in-the-round, as it were. I'm feeling very good about the fit, but I won't know for sure until the parts are in hand and test fit together. *Crosses his fingers, legs, toes... and eyes*

Now, over the years I've been asked on more than one occasion how I manage to get such clean lines, sharp corners, and smooth corners on my builds. I've talked about my technique here-and-there but college has forced me to become much more practiced in my building technique, and it seemed like this build would be a good place to show off my three main methods for dealing with corners when scratch building with styrene.









How you deal with a corner really depends on just how much material and/or structure you have to work with.

When you have a single piece of plastic with a few bends, or a delicate structure, most times its best to add some strength to the corner/s. The great thing about styrene is how well it snaps along a cut line, even if it’s not deep, and if you’re careful it will break while keeping a thin ‘hinge’ of plastic that holds the parts together, if so desired. The simplest solution to easily strengthen a corner like this is to add a rod of plastic and then lock it in place with some extra thin solvent glue. Once the plastic finishes fusing the structure becomes much stronger and can handle the stress of the next steps.

With this method I want to achieve a clean single edge that’s as seamless as possible, so I’ll add extra greenstuff (greenstuff + brownstuff mix in this case) to the corner so I have extra material for the next step.









Once the material added to the corners has cured, it’s a simple matter of sanding it down until it becomes flush with the parent material surface.

Depending on how much material I’m trying to remove, I’ll start with a 220-to-320 grit sandpaper and use that until I get very close to the surface; from there switch to 400-to-600 grit to remove the last of the corner material. Take a little care as you reach the surface and it will become seamless and smooth and you sand it down; as long as it’s even, on a broad flat surface the sand paper will remove virtually no material and just buff the surface to perfect smoothness and give you a crisp corner.









Now that I have more structure there’s enough strength to handle creating a clean single edge corner with nothing but styrene.

With this next layer I start by gluing the side pieces into place and sanding the edges down so they are flush with the center surface. Then I close that gap with strips of plastic that also extend further then needed, so they can be sanded back flush with the sides surfaces. When gluing these parts I’m careful to be liberal with the solvent along the seams and add a bit of extra pressure so that there is just a little extra material to be sanded flush. Before I start standing I use a razor to remove as possible to speed the process and minimize the dust made during sanding.









As with the first method, now it’s just a matter of sanding down the extra material until it’s flush and a clean corner if formed.

One key thing you need to do with corners like this is to wait until the solvent is completely evaporated and the plastic is completely hardened. If you rush the process you’ll sand down to a nice smooth surface, but the slightly softer seam of uncured plastic will leave a faint-but-noticeable seam on the surface; if the plastic is totally cured you may be able to see some faint colour variations, but the surface will be completely smooth and true.

Again, as with the first method, start with a heavier grit sandpaper and as you get close to the surface you’re aiming for switch to something lighter. This simple ‘build over the edge and sand it back’ method can be used to create super clean forms out of styrene as long as your patient enough to let the solvents evaporate before you start sanding.









This is my preferred method to produce really clean and even beveled edges that wrap nicely around corners.

The simple trick of this method is to use the corner of the parent material to help get the shape you’re after. Simply roll out a nice thin rod of greenstuff and lay it in the ‘crook’ created by the two layers of plastic. Then use a simple flat tool (a few of different sizes/shapes are usually helpful in different locations) to force the greenstuff into edge and let the styrene do the work for you; as you press it down and rock the tool over the greenstuff the corner of the styrene will ‘cut’ its way through the material. Once you can see an obvious line through the greenstuff caused by the styrene corner and the surface is reasonably close to how you want it, stop right there and let the greenstuff cure. It wastes a bit of material, but I find it much easier to clean up the excess once it’s cured rather than trying to scrape it away while it’s still soft. Once the greenstuff is cured you can simple scrape the excess away with a fingernail with no worry of harming the material you want to keep.

I find the greenstuff will bulge on corners and across some stubborn areas; again, this is fine and exactly why you get the greenstuff filler close to the final shape and then you do the last refining work once it’s hardened. Here, I find using sanding sticks very useful for removing any offending bulges while still giving me control to keep the surfaces smooth and the edges clean, sharp, and true. It is possible to make your own sanding sticks with some double-sided foam tape and strips of styrene, but when you use as many as I can when I’m doing a lot of building, it’s nice to have a good pre-made product.

Alpha Abrasives has been a favorite of mine for many years, (shameless plug for a local Canadian company) not only for their abrasive products, but also for the Abrasive Cleaning Disc you can see pictured to the right of the sanding sticks. It costs $6 CAD, but mine has lasted me for about 10 years now, is still going strong, and it’s saved me a fair amount of time and money. Simply put, greenstuff is a great modeling material, but it quickly clogs sandpaper and files when you’re try to shape it. Using the cleaning disk, with its strange rubbery and slightly sticky nature, you can rub clogged sandpaper and files clean of greenstuff residue with relative ease. Sandpaper and sanding sticks that would normally be garbage can be reused several more times after a cleaning with this simple tool.









So, there you have it, all of the necessary components for the Shield Generator are complete and mould making has commenced.

I’m particularly happy with how close to invisible the join is for the removable top of the structure; buy taking advantage of the form I created and using some detailing to further hide the seam, the join all but vanishes when the parts come together. Six reasonably large magnets (two per pillar) will be provided in the final kit to secure the top battlements to the base and I suspect it strong enough to only come apart with deliberate intent. This will help with transport and make it easy to replace the plasma globe should it be necessary.

Stay tuned for more updates on this project as it progresses; it’s the largest model my little studio has produced to date, and while I’m confident that it’s going to be great, it’s still somewhat new territory for me and I’m eager to see this proof of concept prove itself.

Other musing about other topics are also on their way; I have another articles worth of pictures, (on a few different subjects) already finished and just waiting for the copy to get written. That article will shed some light on the projects I have coming up over the next several weeks and how they’ll impact what’s coming up beyond that.

Thanks for reading. As always, more to come!


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## Kreuger

@Subtle Discord that's a beautifully detailed tutorial on scratch building sharp corners. 

Personally, I held off because I have so many projects in my back log and for the past few years my wife and I were busy in grad school and being parents. Now that school is done I have some more bandwidth to get through my project backlog.


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## Subtle Discord

Taken from another corner of the interweb, someone comment that the Shield Generator kit might benefit from not including any GW parts to make it easier for the purchaser to build. While I completely understand this idea (and can't say it won't ever happen) I felt the reply was a worthy update to Legion Rising.

Seriously, thank you very much for having this kind of conversation. I'm always interested in hearing opinions and feedback that fosters a dialogue beyond the look/quality of the work I'm doing; talk that will help steer my studio's deeper design philosophy will always get serious consideration.

It's absolutely true that I'm playing a balancing act, in many ways, with how I'm currently running my studio. For the most part, I need to follow the path of least resistance with what I'm doing for now, and 'conversion kits' that work with an existing model are prime examples. Not only do they provide some heavy lifting in creating the finished product, they also give the final model at least some legitimate claim that they can be used as official pieces. I'm the first to admit that in this case I've taken it very far and have added a ton of resin to accommodate all of the elements I wanted in the design, but at its core there is an official GW kit to add some legitimacy. For now I am designing specifically for the Warhammer 40/30k universe very intentionally for a few reasons (more on that in a moment) but with that said, I will say that in future I have every plan to produce more stand-alone models that are made completely in-house.

From a production standpoint I'll 'pull back the curtain' a bit to give you an idea where this kit stands, because it really is a different animal compared to everything I've produced so far. Truth be told, I could likely create my own version of the center piece and do it for a little cheaper then what it'll cost to get the pieces you'll need from GW; that said, the parts would be rather tricky to make (due to the slope combined with round and flat elements) and would add much more time to the build that I simply do not have right now. Add to that the fact that this kit is currently sitting at 12-14 moulds to produce (double the count of the largest kits I make now) adding another 4-6 moulds (at least two of them quite large) for the center column plus extra detail bits would be almost prohibitive for this kit. This is an ambitious kit for my modest studio, it doesn't need more. 

As for cost, producing the whole thing in-house might trim about $10 CAD off the final price I would charge, at most. Given the amount of resin and labour this kit will demand (resin is actually a very reasonably cost material, but this kit is going to use lots of it) I will likely need to charge $75-to-$80 CAD for my kit, with the $18 CAD Plasma Globe included. In Canada the Vengeance Weapon Battery kit costs $60 CAD at full price from GW, adding $30 CAD to the cost of building one of these towers, but I'm sure they can be found for cheaper from other sources, new or used. I do apologize to those who have to suffer with extra-absurd GW pricing, nothing I can do there. Adding another 4-6 moulds would easily add $20+ CAD to the price. Yes, this will be a $110 CAD kit to complete, maybe even a bit more; but trust me when I say I feel confident it's a fair price for the size, quality, novelty, and exclusivity, of this kit. I'm what I consider a renaissance manufacturer who is not interested in mass producing at the lowest possible cost to keep profit margins as large a possible. I want to produce absolute top quality, unique designs, at a smaller production scale, permitting the time and care necessary to give the attention to detail that is lost when manufacturing is too much about mass production.

Finally, one of the other main reasons why I make kits that incorporate GW/FW models ties into a longer agenda that I have planned; I'm trying to build a portfolio of work that shows just how good I am at creating kits that blend seamlessly and compliment the parent GW/FW model. At worst, I wan't to make kits so amazing that I get a reputation for being the 'unofficial official' other Forge World; that independent producer who's making stuff so good, it may as well be FW. Best case scenario, I make a portfolio of work so strong that when I present it to GW I can convince them to consider some kind of 'affiliate studio' program so I can become official and gain a little more freedom in my designs; it might sound a bit crazy (trust me, I'm intimidated even considering it) but nothing ventured, nothing gained, so they say. I'm very cautiously optimistic, but also being careful not to be surprised by a letdown.

All that said, I will be producing kits that are completely my own design and manufacture (the Mor'ses Weapon Platform, is a first test in that direction) along side more conversion kits, when it makes sense. They'll start arriving when I can get working in the studio full-time once I've complete college. But, enough rambling for now, I've got another article almost finished that I'll be posting up shortly, and It'll talk some about future plans and what I'm doing today to get the groundwork for future projects. Thanks for reading, and thanks for the input, it's always appreciated.


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## Subtle Discord

Being a bit of hodgepodge of subjects, it seems appropriate for another episode to chronicle my… _Tales of *Interest!*_

First up, I forgot that I never showed the final renders of the Chaos Marine helmet I did last year in college due to my hectic schedule. It turned out quite well, so it seems only fit to show it in its complete state. Better late than never.









For added visual interest under the front grill I designed my take on a Vox speaker and a vent for breathing when atmosphere is available, and in the ear you can see my take on audio pickup device. 









Under the back panel you can see communications device with two antennas, and the module with the hazard stripes is mean to be the replaceable re-breather filter for less hospitable environments. 

Time was a real consideration with this build, so for as much detail as there is, I wasn’t able to go too overboard getting down to smaller detailing. Given more time I would have hollowed/shelled the helmet properly and made the face plate removable, opening the door to the chance to detail the inside. I also wanted to add a collar component and would have liked to make the horns a little more organic, but the project just didn’t permit the time investment.

I changed the surface from my first rendering, from a gloss to a satin and I think it suits the helmet better. It was mentioned that the gloss finish seemed give it a Star Wars meets Warhammer 40K feel, and I had to agree. While I wasn’t able to do anything elaborate, I was able to add a bit of texture to the horns to make them feel a bit more organic. Solidworks really isn’t meant to create authentic renderings; in that I mean, rendering objects that have a bit of wear-and-tear and looked used, as one would likely expect of a Chaos Marine helmet. It’s very good at factory fresh objects that are right out of the box or sitting on a showroom floor, but I wanted to at least try to rough it up a bit. I was able to add some very convincing paint chipping with use of decals (normally used for branding and the like) that I was quite pleased with. With the limited time, I couldn’t find a technique to also add some scratches and weathering marks to the other metal components, however.

Next up in our planned public service announcements… The *Bad*. *Insert ominous Slaanesh-approved music here* Unfortunately, there’s no fictional blurb to accompany this one yet, but I will have one in future.









There’s good news and bad news with the Spartan kit. The bad news, in a word… the tracks! Err… wait a second, that’s two words…

It’s my understanding that the track components have now been integrated onto the side-hull section on an updated version of this kit that is now shipping from FW. While that does solve the only real problem with this kit, I was not lucky enough to get one of the new kits and I can see exactly why these parts were such a hassle. Not only are they delicate, with the link edges and other small bits very prone to breaking during shipping and/or during assembly.









Beyond being fragile, the tracks simply do _not_ fit the model correctly. Even Forge World was unable to get the tracks to fit on their studio model pictured here. 

Put simply, there is roughly half a link too much in the track set, and no matter how you try to adjust the fit you can’t get a convincing clean fit for the tracks all the way around. I consider this ‘The Bad’ because this is a design flaw pure-and-simple, and I think it could/should have been corrected before they put this model into production. Given the obvious nature of the problem, the reasonably small size of the parts involved, and the capabilities of the FW studio, I can’t see how it could have been too hard to rectify. Add in the cost they ask for the kit and the fact that I’m sure they’ve sold _many_ of them, correcting something like this before going to production seems fair to me.

I’m still not sure how I’ll handle the problem, and I’m not really sweating it too much (it’s a small detail after all) but I’m likely going to follow FW’s example and simply shave it down. I think I can do it in such a way that it can look like a narrow ‘master link’ that should be reasonably seamless, but I’m not too worried either way; I’m trying to tame my modeling OCD just a _wee bit_, and aim for ‘really good’ instead of ‘near flawless’ and it’s working. I’ve done more actual productive assembly in the last year then I have in several before it. I won’t be able to really dig in and finish anything significant until college is done (two… final… semesters…) but when the time comes I should be able to bring several projects to completion in short order. I can’t wait! *Wipes away the froth forming at his mouth* Must… _finish_… *more*… _*projects!*_









Beyond the tracks, the Spartan assembles very nicely with no real surprises; the main hull fits together with the kind of work you’d expect. 

The top front door is a bit thin, especially after I shaved off the eagle on the outside, so I reinforced it with some styrene. I prefer to button-up my vehicles, so it’s no bother to me. I’ve got enough to worry about with the outside of vehicles.

It did require a bit of clamping to get a really nice tight fit on the final assembly, but after that the main hull was as solid as rock. With a bit of sanding to even up the edges everything was ready. I’ve attached some 80 grit sandpaper from a belt sander (virtually indestructible) to a thin strip of oak to create a sanding tool that can really remove material very fast. Great for quick leveling job just like this.









 *This* is how a model should come together. After some straight forward subassembly the build is stress free. 

Thanks to the properly fitting keys that lock the side hulls to the main hull assembly, from here it’s simple to finish the largest part of the build. Unlike the Sicaran kit, the fit for these parts on the Spartan is near prefect all the way around the vehicle, top and bottom with no modification or forcing.









So there you have it, the Spartan is well on its way to being assembled and now ready to be fit for future studio kits.

Beyond the issues with the tracks this is a _really_ nice model. Where some FW kits will exhibit some slight bowing of surfaces and other minor idiosyncrasies the Spartan’s lines and surfaces are nice and true. To me, it shows that FW is really starting to hone in on how they’re producing their kits and I’ll be interested to see if this trend continues with any future kits I purchase that have been produced after the Spartan.

The Spartan is also a perfect illustration of something I’ve meant to bring up from time-to-time. With the popularity of my ‘trim kits’ I’ve been asked on more than one occasion if I’ll be doing a trim kit for ‘insert model name here’. Put simply, some hulls lend themselves very well to something like my trim; lots of clean straight lines that I can follow, with enough surface area that can reasonably accommodate the width that the trim will be. The Rhino hull is excellent for these reasons and the Spartan is a good example of a hull that would be a real pain to make a good trim kit for. With all the surfaces and detailing, there would be so many small bits that it would be a real pain to design a custom fitting kit. The Spartan will get The Dark Works treatment, but not a proper trim kit, more than likely.

I’m also mentioning trim kits for a specific reason because they have been something I’ve been keen on improving for quite some time. For those who take some interest in how I make my kits and the process involved, I’ll give you a look at my love-hate relationship with these kits. The skinny on the trims, as it were…









These rather unglamorous looking four moulds are what it takes to create just one reasonably simple trim kit for a Rhino hull.

When you cast with resin you generally need to work very quickly. If you want it to fully harden in a reasonable amount of time, the plastic you use will begin curing (AKA: kicking) very quickly, getting thicker-and-thicker by the second. The delicate nature of my trim kits makes this a problem; if you inject the resin into the moulds quickly (and you have no choice, as the seconds slip by when the resin start to kick in) it will cause the mould to bulge and expand, overflowing from the voids that create the parts. This will cause some tissue-paper-like flash at best, and that’s acceptable; or the flash is far too thick and it completely ruins the part, costing both labour and materials. Up to this point I have made due with simple but effective mould clamps/boxes locked in place with wingnuts that apply even pressure over the mould to fix this issue. While this solution works very well, with four moulds per kit that adds up to sixteen wingnuts that need to be unfastened and refastened each time the parts are removed from the mould. Along with carefully de-moulding these delicate parts, it’s simply too much labour for a product that needs a reasonable price point because of what it is.

Now I learned a lot about my materials and process since I first started producing these trim kits, and I’ve got some ideas on how I think I can improve the process to reduce the mould count and make them easier to de-mould to improve on labour. For these kits to remain viable going forward, these improvements must be made. I really do like the trim kits as a product, and they are popular in my shop, but I really do _hate_ the labour involved to produce them, and I somewhat dread having to do any significant casting run of them.

So, with these plans to improve the manufacturing process I wanted to also do new sets of trim prototypes for the endeavour. Having used my Zing successfully in the past for both studio and college, I set to work on my new designs.









While Zing is a capable little cutter that can really do amazing things, it’s just not up to the task of cutting arrows and points that are 2mm wide in styrene.

The cutting blade on the Zing needs to pivot to turn corners, and while it’s an extremely tiny pivot, it just isn’t responsive enough in the dense styrene plastic. In lighter vinyl, for example, the Zing would actually be able to achieve these shapes with some adjustment of the settings and the blade height, but in styrene it’s just not possible. I tried to ‘dial in’ the settings, and this did improve the results, but not enough to make it acceptable; the extra density of the styrene simply forces the blade to take longer to pivot around to the new cutting direction. Note how the simple shapes cut well enough, (adding small ‘swing around loops’ at corners will create very sharp corners) and it can almost get acceptable results of the simpler endpoints, but when it comes down to actual arrows it just can’t handle it.

A test with a pen shows that the Zing has the accuracy required, but with the pivoting cutting blade, it just can’t get the same results at this scale. And the scale in this case is worth noting; these bands are just 2mm wide and the arrows are roughly 4mm tall, so these are very small details to be asking Zing to cut. If the pattern was simper (like the Mk.II Land Raider kit I made with Zing) and/or a little larger in scale (like the Shield Generator I just finished building) Zing would have a much better time cutting the parts out. So, while Zing isn’t up to the task of cutting parts for my trim kits, it has still been invaluable for building models for college, and it still has plenty of potential for larger scale cutting jobs.

The silver lining to this outcome is that the designs are all digital and now created in Solidworks, so changing these into models that can be rapid prototyped (RP) is all but done. The plan was to do these at the beginning of the summer but the complications forced me to put them off. And then I got a little… distracted… *looks sheepish* by the Shield Generator project; it’s turned out as good as I had hoped, but took a little longer then I wanted it to. But that’s a subject for another wall-o’-text.

























Shown large so you can get a good feel for the lines of each design, I’m not making massive changes to these first kits, just refining the concept.

A direct evolution of the Mk.I (a personal favorite) The Mk.III is obviously intended to be a straight-up Chaos/Renegade version. The Mk.IV tones down the overt arrows to more decorative points letting it work well with either Chaos or Loyalist, and 40k or 30k. Finally, the Mk.V _can_ be used for Chaos, but is really intended more as a Loyalist design, again for both 40k and 30k.

With a change to RP to make the prototypes, the two main hurdles for these kits and any other trim kits that I design (be it a kit for a specific hull or a bulk trim kit for a builder to use how they see fit) are surface quality and the very thin nature of these parts. The first, surface quality, (which effects every RP I plan to make, really) will simply come down to the RP method used to create the parts; there _are_ methods that can produce extremely good surface quality but they are not cheap and there might be a problem trying to find it locally due to how specialized (read: Expensive!) the prototypers are that can produce the results I’ll be looking for. While cost is a major consideration I can appreciate the value of a good prototype and have no problem carefully investing in them when it makes sense. Being such low volume objects should also make the trims in particular a good early RP candidate; they should be reasonably cheap to have RP’ed.

My main worry is the delicate nature of the parts, and if they might be a little too thin to safely RP. Or more accurately, to remove from the build tray after the part has been created. Not including the rivets the parts are less than 1mm tall, and 0.5mm at the thinnest points. I’ve made the sprue a thickness I’m sure will be safe, but I’m still worried the parts may be too thin and brittle, breaking apart before they can be moulded. Conversely, they might be so thin that they are prone to curling and/or warping and staying 100% flat and true is key to these kits being successful kits. All said, I _will_ find a way to make my trim designs work. I like how these kits produce a subtle-yet-striking result to the parent model and I can see them evolving considerably once I smooth out any production kinks; expect to see some with delicate filigree and more much unique/ornate lines, bands adorned with spikes, hooks, and chains suitable for attaching trophies (Read: Spikes done *right*!), trims with runes and symbols of power etched along their length, and those are just what comes off the top pf my head. 3D modeling opens a door to a level of detail that will be very interesting to my design process, to say the least. Stay tuned!

These, along with a few other 3D models that I have lurking in the shadows will be the first components I’ll be having RP’ed locally and they’ll be used to test a few different methods to find the one/s that will work for my future studio projects. The wonderful advantage of working locally is that the turn-around time for prints will go from 2-3 weeks down to as little as 2-3 days if I choose. Faster turn-around costs more, but when it’s a difference of weeks, and it’s with a supplier that I can directly communicate with to get the best results in the timeframe I want, that’s worth the extra investment.

So here ends this, my most recent _Tale of *Interest*_ *the words echo slightly*, and the accompanying chapter dedicated to ‘The *Bad*’ Spartan build. Coming soon, ‘The _*Ugly*_’ Fire Raptor build, complete with emoticons to illustrate the swings in mood that kit has forced me to endure. Don’t get me wrong, the final model is absolutely gorgeous, but the build is ‘advanced’ at best and maddening at worst, especially if you’re a bit particular about fit-and-finish, like myself. I’ve successfully learned to tone down my perfectionist ideals in the name actually getting some projects done, but the Raptor holds a special honour for very nearly giving me a mild brain aneurysm. But all is behind me now… *stares blissfully into space*

But before that, expect a small’ish update on the Shield Generator project; as mentioned, while it did take a little more work than planned, I’m _more_ then pleased with the final outcome and can’t wait to see one completely assembled. It really has pushed my production methods to their limits, and it’s been very valuable in teaching me some lessons in casting large components; something I absolutely plan to do more of in the future.

Ok… I’ll stop rambling now… *Subtle wanders off to do something else productive*


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## Old Man78

Excellent work and your tutorials are great, your ramblings are very informative:smile2:


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## Kreuger

Looking good as always. The Spartan photos were very illustrative.


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## Flatlinerunner

Amazing als always. Very impressed by your clean take on the spartan tank


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## Subtle Discord

“We have attained the plans. Now build it! Build it… to the _sky!_”

*tap tap tap*

“Actually my Lord, it’s uhh… only about 35 units vertical; but it _does_ generate a protective shield!”

*glowering*

“Oh… well, I see then. I _suppose_ that will do.”

















Held together with fit, friction, poster tack, hope, and some prayers to the Dark Gods, I present the first, _mostly_ complete, test fit for the Shield Generator.

This test fitting reviled that the main ‘pillar’ component could actually benefit from a little tweaking and adjustment, so that was done. As of taking these pictures the rest of the parts have been moulded and the final moulds (for the main base and the revised pillar component) will be finished tonight. First finalized casts and fitting will start tomorrow and I should have a 100% complete model ready for photos in the next few days. For efficient sustainable production I will need to create some more moulds of the repeating parts, but I’ll have just enough to start limited production. For now, I only have 4 Plasma Globes to make a complete kit (with more on the way) so limited production for a little longer is not really a problem. These will be offered without the Plasma Globe, minus the cost of the globe, for those who may have one or want to source their own, but I can’t make any promises about the final fit of the internal hardware.









As an added hidden bonus for the Door component, I’ve provided room for the power switch and added seats so it can be magnetized.

Naturally the builder can simply glue the door component in place and leave the switch exposed. It’s not a really that distracting to the model and it leaves easy access to turn the Plasma Globe off during the game to represent when the shield has been knocked down. But, if you want to hide the switch behind the door, simply drill a few holes to each side of the switch and mount a few magnets to secure the door in place. I’ve made the seats for very broad flat magnets (that will be included) so they won’t need to align perfectly with the magnets in the base, but the part should still attach to the model cleanly due to the fit.

















The finish is just what I would expect, and the fit… the fit is… _good!_

Have I mentioned yet that I’m _in *love*_ with these round rivets and hex bolts that I picked up from Tichy Train Group? Well I am! Just look at how well they’ve turned out in the final casts. Soooo nice… *drools just a tiny bit* Since they’re made from HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) they glue perfectly with the extra thin solvent glues that I prefer; but HIPS (as the name suggest) really is a harder version of the styrene family of plastics, so they’ll be tougher and resist melting too much during gluing despite their tiny size.

I was a little worried that the ‘deck plate’ for the battements on the top of the model might not come together as tightly as I’d hoped, but they’ve turned out very well. The added benefit of the overall shape being a hexagon will make the battlement components ‘snap fit’ together, actually locking the assembly tight; you shouldn’t need very much glue to get a very strong final build. Finally, you can see how the top will look from the bottom up, to give an idea how the larger dish is intended to attach.









Also, if I hadn’t been clear earlier, the glowing Chaos Objective Markers _are_ a studio project that will be available very soon in my shop.

The kit will come complete with six bases, six unique stones (each double-sided), and six colour-changing LED tea lights that will provide the hardware and batteries. Simply attach the stones to the provided bases, apply whatever basing treatment suits your army, and paint as you see fit. Insert the hardware and battery provided, and it’ll be good-to-go. Ominous glowing _stones of *pow’ah!*_

Ok, now I need to make something. Time to scratch that itch! *Runs off with a manic look in his eyes*


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## Kreuger

@Subtle Discord wow that's just awesome looking. All of it. 

I'm going to place an order once you have the shield generator for sale. I have a few things I've been admiring amongst your wares and it's just about time. 

Your work just keeps getting better and better. I admire your process of making stunning models but also building in easily sourced 3rd party objects (e.g. lights) to really move it up another notch.


P.s. - Your store still suggests you're on vacation.


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## Subtle Discord

*Clink! Clink! Clink! Clink! Clink!*

_"Aaaarcher! _Come out and_ plaaayy!"_

*Clink! Clink! Clink! Clink! Clink!*

*..."Berry!"*


Being someone who prefers to work at night, and having a bit of a bout of insomnia that's finally just about to fade, I figured this would be a good time to put these right here...









I'm pleased to present the complete and assembled Shield Generator Tower. I'm tempted to call it a Heavy Plasma Shield Generator, but maybe that's a bit too obvious.

There are a few spots where the fit is a tiny bit off, but nothing a builder who's going to assemble something like this should be challenged by, if they feel compelled to try and fix them. Ultimately, they're so small really, they just get lost in all of the awesome of the whole model. Yep, I'm not going to be a bit modest about this one; it was a bit more work then I expected, but it's also turned out better then I was expecting as well, so that's good enough for me. I'm particularly happy with the even clearance of the model around the globe; almost seem like I knew what I was doing, eh? 









I'm shooting at a slow shutter speed so I can get a good depth of field (lots of focus) so the plasma effect is quite blurred.

Complete with armoured construction, full sized entrance door, and external ladder to the battlements on the top. It's 18cm from the ground to the battlement deck, and 22cm total. The base at its widest is 13cm and it expands just a bit from there for the shield emitting arrays. So the removable top can be... well... removed, the ladder is also magnetized so it can be taken off.









Since I carefully fused the original Plasma Globe base hardware into the base of the kit, the fit of the transplanted electronics is seamless.

Thankfully there are no surprises with the power switch or the access for the power cable. Of course, I was careful to get Plasma Globes that can be operated on 4 AAA batteries to avoid the cord completely. Considering this was mostly built as a 1/3rd section and repeated to complete the final structure, I'm rather impressed with myself that there's no show-stopping flaws that need to be addressed to make a correct kit. Until you've got the parts to do a test fit, I'm usually a bit anxious even if I'm confident. But, I've come to learn that It's usually a good thing when I impress myself, and this time I think I'm right. It will require some dry-fitting to ensure a clean assembly, but where the fit counts, it's very tight and solid. Once certain base components are partially assembled it starts to support itself, aiding the rest of the assembly. Even here, it's only half glued together and locked together with friction. Not half bad if I do say so myself.

*Subtle wanders off to eat a cookie, and then plummet into a deep sleep*


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## Subtle Discord

Ok, now that I have some studio work behind me, I just wanted to do a quick follow up to comment, clarify, and answer a few questions before getting back to work. I’m happy that it’s been noticed that I’ve tried to give this model some logic; I’ve said it before, but it’s what I call pseudo-plausible™ model design. Yes, this is a completely fictional sci-fi construction, but I want it to _appear_ to have some rational to how it operates. I really think it’s what elevates my designs that extra, almost subconscious, notch; I really take the time to consider how I can use details to convey the operation of the device. How does it appear to be constructed or assemble? Where are the access panels or vents? Do the pipes, cables, and hydraulics make sense? Is there proper clearance or room for something to appear to function? On a certain level, I approach the design as if it _could_ work in order to guide the final decisions on the form and details.

In this case I wanted the Shield Generator to really appear to be creating/capturing/focusing some kind of energy event and then directing that energy out into the protective shield. The inner dishes don’t actually contact the plasma globe, they sit about 3mm away. Unfortunately plastic doesn’t have the same effect that a finger touching the glass has; I haven’t found a way to get the plasma streams to really attract to the inner dishes. The streams do linger a little bit at the dishes as they pass by, but not very pronouncely.









It was asked if I could show the generator beside a model to give a bit of scale.

Needless to say, this kit is _big_ compared to anything else I’ve tried in my studio do date, but its footprint isn’t massive; it’s a bit larger than a standard Rhino length made square. It’s so large that making the moulds really pushed my equipment; the large base component required the biggest mould I’ve ever made (go figured, it also uses the most plastic of any mould to cast) and it only barely fit in the pressure chamber for curing. I guess I’ve found my current size limit. 









The door was forced to be a bit of a balancing act in just how large it could be.

I began adding the door component after the vertical pillars were mostly finished, so they had an impact on how tall the door could be. From there the width of the door was determined by the base model. Still more than large enough to give a Marine easy, if a bit cramped, access. But, it should be just fine for a mortal human.









While it is tall, providing a good field-of-view, the small footprint means it’s limited in how many models can fit.

Being quite tall with a small footprint it seems like a fair balance to me; providing a good vantage point to the unit occupying the battlement, but not being large enough to let it hold an unreasonable amount of firepower. There’s enough space for three 40mm bases, with enough wiggle room to make sure they fit. The protective walls are meant to protect more humanoid sized models so these Obliterators seem a bit tall.









These five Marines are on 25mm bases, but by the looks of it, there should be no problem fitting five 32mm bases.

Again, there’s no problem fitting a five man squad, but there’s not much room for more. I don’t own any 32mm bases yet, so I can’t check those for fit. With a Marine you can see that the armoured walls suit their height much more; low enough to fire over the gaps, and the observation slits are at roughly head height.









The kit includes 42 cast components (over 0.25 kg, or 0.55 lbs of resin, actually) 14 neodymium magnets, and a 3” Plasma Globe (not pictured).

I can’t afford the cost or the space to supply the required GW or FW models to complete the builds of my kits. Not all of my kits will require a GW or FW model to complete, but many will, for various reasons. I’ve had comments in both direction with this kit in particular, with someone saying I should have done the entire model completely, and another liking that I incorporated the GW Vengeance Battery into the build. I see both sides of the coin, but this was the original idea I had, so it was how the final model came together. I respect that the GW components will add to the cost of the build, but in this case I can honestly say it will be about the same as the additional cost I would have to charge to make equivalent components myself. This way it blends better with the other GW scenery kits, is at least semi-official, and saved me from having to build a rather tricky part. While most of the kit I created is made from reasonably flat components, (lots of awesome layers, details, and unique forms, but still essentially flat) the sloping nature of the Vengeance Battery base along with its curved elements means that it’s actually rather tricky to replicate. In this case it really was in the best interest of the final studio kit and the window of time I have available to design this model this way.

Thanks as always to everyone reading and those who offer their positive feedback, input, and support. I’m always happy to give a glimpse into my humble studio and really appreciate that it is well received. The community around this hobby really does give and receive if you’re willing to take part in it. Ok, I better stop, before I get melodramatic and deep. *Subtle wanders off to bed*


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## Subtle Discord

*Subtle slips through an inconspicuous side door and quickly locks it behind him. The sound of… _something_ can be heard behind the threshold… banging, scratching, thumping, clawing, and pounding… trying to gain entry. Subtle moves slowly away from the door, hoping it’ll hold*

Not yet you don’t! I still have one last chapter, damnit! *This*, won’t be complete, the voices from the warp won’t shut the fuck up, until I’ve finished _‘The Ugly’!_ As promised, one final insomnia fueled installment in my _Tales of *Interest!*_ (Damn I miss Futurama) So, lets step right in it; the Fire Raptor. This ‘ugly’ little model… ok, so it’s not so little, and when it’s finally built it’s not so ugly, but you get what I mean. This collection of styrene and resin has a bit of a reputation; a model that induces both lust and loathing. I _know_ I want one, but do I _have_ to build it _myself?!_

Put simply, yeah, it’s a bit of a pain to assemble, to say the least. I know how to build things, and it drove me nuts at times; inducing such moods swings in fact, I chose to add emoticons to this write up to show how I was feeling during different stages of this build. “Enter at your own risk ~ This is a Dark ride” The Fire Raptor is an _amazing_ model… that requires serious consideration and work to build because of some strange fit issues and missed opportunities to add some simple features to the parts to aid in construction; getting the entire hull straight and true is just _maddening._ I really like what Forge World makes, so it can be hard to be harsh towards them because I really like the style, but I just don’t understand the logic of how this assembles in places, and some of the very strange fit and alignment issues that crop up in this premium kit. I could write an article in itself about how I’d do things differently to create a model that fits and locks together better during assembly, but I’ll save that for when I do my own Storm Raven conversion kits in future. I have the test prototypes, I’ve perfected the casting process, I know I can do it, in due time… I promise.









So, we all know that Polyurethane plastic (Aka: Resin) is a toxic if inhaled; resin dust is bad for you, m’kay?!

Big kit means lots of pour gates and vents, many of them very large. Credit has to be given to some of the large slabs of resin that make the Raptor’s hull. So, that means lots of sawing and lots of dust. Use a respirator to avoid it as you free the many parts from their captive sprews. Unless the gates are quite small, and even then, I usually prefer to use a saw on resin to remove sprew. I’ve had clippers cause the sprew to pop free and take a chunk of the model with it (requiring later repair) too many times. The saw slices/cuts through the material, avoiding that.









Expect to give many parts of the kit hot water dunks so they can be bent back into alignment.

Resin warps.  It’s almost unavoidable. Just packaging something securely for shipping will slowly warp parts over the days it takes for a kit to get from point A to point B. To their credit, FW did secure the large hull components to cardboard to provide them some extra support. Resin is also usually just a bit soft when it’s de-moulded, adding to the chances of a bit of warping as it’s tugged from the mould. It’s usually a rather easy fix to hot water dunk the part and coax it back to correct form. No complaints here. 









This is where we get deep and technical; the real key to no losing your mind if you try to build this model.

*In a booming monotone voice* You _will Pin *EVERYTHING!*_ … That is all! *Click*

:| While you can expect to do some pinning on a large resin model, with the Fire Raptor it becomes the only way to can really hold it together and stay aligned; the parts match up (mostly) but they can shift and slide making it very tricky to get it together for a proper test fit. This is where I start to wonder why there aren’t a few more simple interlocking components to help form the structure, and make it a bit easier to build. But, so far it’s starting to look like something. 









The struggle continues as I try to piece it together and to a dry fit to test alignments and if parts have been properly straightened.

:| Doing some test fitting is to be expected with a large kit, but this one really was a struggle to keep it together so you could really check the fit and alignment. It seemed a bit warped, but not enough that I didn’t think I could force it into shape. Again, some simple tongue in groove details and/or a few locking/fitting components wouldn’t be amiss to help the build. It’s mostly just a flat slabs of resin meeting flat slabs of resin, with one or two small details to help with alignment.











So I relented, and placed some nice large pins front and back on both sides to lock the walls of the hull in place.

I drilled the holes with just a little play, front to back, so I could adjust the parts a little bit as I assembled the resin components of the main hull. It took a little bit twisting to get a reasonably clean alignment on both sides, and you can _just_ make it out a bit of it in the length of the hull. I took my time and carefully added lots of Super glue to the length of the hull to really lock it in to place. It was starting to look good and feel solid. 









Except yeah, that ‘little twist’? Well… it was not so little after all.

 It might not look like much, but this is the wing section of the hull, and I suspect that this little twist in the hull would have made the wings a bit warped across their span, drooping down on the left, if not corrected. With everything locked together I had no choice but to hot water dunk the entire assembly. :| I’m lucky to have a small portable electric cooking range that I can use for large dunk jobs like this; I wanted really hot water considering the thick nature of the parts. With an old pot it wasn’t that hard to fix the twist. And, I must have used enough glue, because the hot water didn’t loosen it at all. 

*Subtle stops, noticing that it has become quiet. The ‘thing’ lurking outside having stopped its assault on the door.*









This is one of those little parts that illustrated some of the fit issues in a nut shell.

It’s not glued together at this point, so it is a bit loose. However,  Front left corner, that looks good, once it’s glued up it will be tight and clean with a bit of a seam. :| Front right corner, well that’s not as clean as it could be, but it’s not the worst.  But the bottom… *Gets angry, grunting and yelling* _why for big silly gap in bottom?!_ *Sigh* To the best of my ability the hull is assembled how it should be, I’m not sure why this gap is like this. Not a huge deal I guess, but not that hard to fix before mass production too. If you want to make the parts seamless, the rivets are going to make it a real pain to sand it smooth.









Remember, the resin parts of the hull are assembled, from what I can tell, straight and symmetrical, and still… 

… The left corner of the hull aligns perfectly with the styrene component. *Ding!* Excellent!  But the right corner of the hull is out by more than just a little bit! *Buzzer!* So sorry!  There was simply no way to get both sides to alight cleanly, so I was forced to use a small sanding block and carefully remove some material to lower the resin surface enough to get the corner to align correctly.










For better or worse, the main hull came together and was glued firm.

 Despite all my efforts to assemble the hull straight and true there is a subtle but noticeable bend to the left. The ‘hobby OCD me’ hates it, but I chose to ignore it because of how subtle it is. :| It’s also a bit annoying that the top panel for the hull also doesn’t line up as neatly as I’d like; the right side looks good, but the left just doesn’t line up quite right and ruins what should be nice and symmetrical details. At this point there is no flex or give in the hull, and I don’t want to even consider another dunk, so I’m willing to accept these final small, but annoying, flaws. Once you step back and look the whole, you can’t help but like it, even with the odd little wart. 

















The wings assembled easily but a few parts could have been a bit cleaner in the fit.

I also managed to forget to photograph assembling the engine housings, rear landing gear compartments, and rear components. In an effort to actually make progress, not worry, and overthink it, I just plowed through and realized at the end I forgot. :| Being beyond the point of no return, all that really matters of that process is that I pinned the heck out of it all; the engines especially received three large deep pins each to properly secure the large chunks of resin to the hull. The double pinned wings are not fragile in the slightest. In fact, the entire build is remarkably solid, thanks to the extensive pinning; it’s a quite literally brick, with no flex in the hull or the wing connections, and it simply feels *solid* right out to the wing tips.









Even the small parts, like the front vector engines got securely pinned in place so nothing will fall off this glorious chunk of plastic.

 As mentioned, I managed to clean up the top right corner alignment with some careful sanding of the resin surface and a bit of brute force when finally gluing it in place. The bottom right corner did end up with a rather noticeable seam line that will need a bit of fixing, as expected. 

But ultimately, the small flaws just don’t matter.  If you can take the time to pin the heck out of the Fire Raptor as you construct it, it becomes less daunting to assemble then the reputation its gained, _but_ it _is_ still a bit of an ‘ugly’ challenging build to get it nice clean and straight, and it has a few small but ‘ugly’ flaws that seem out of place for such a wonderful final model; however, they become very easy to ignore when they’re overwhelmed by all the awesome present in the rest of this kit. But, the build does make you work for that awesome, with a challenging build. You have been warned.

I will follow up with further articles showing the assembly of the smaller components of the Raptor and Spartan when I can get to finishing those final bit of the builds. But even with a few things left to complete in these builds, I’m quite happy to have several key models assembled to a point that they are ready to go when I’m ready to start my planned studio kits. Tackling all of the builds I did this summer has really encouraged me to be more confident in just getting down to work and getting progress done, instead of overthinking and hesitating when I’m having a bit of doubt. Definitely a good thing. 









In closing, a few images to show off a few other little things I’ve been up to as the summer ends.

I finally got a chance to get the Signum Stone markers properly painted and based to match my army. Big surprise, I went with a Black Marble look (using my black highlight greys) for the actual stone artifact shards, so they can stand out a bit from the common ground stone, but still feel cohesive. Even with a single battery (they can take one or two) pictured here, the lighting effect is very pronounced, and they produce a wonderful hypnotic glowing effect as they shift through the spectrum.









At some point someone had asked me if the small dishes in my Shield Generator touched the plasma globe and if the effect was drawn to them. 

Well, that got me thinking, and it really didn’t seem that hard to add some metal pins to the center of the internal dishes that could reach the globe and touch it; the lower electrical resistance of the metal should draw the plasma effect towards it, just like touching it with a finger, only on a smaller scale. It was a little fiddly to get all of the pins the correct length on each dish, since the gap isn’t quite consistent all around the globe. But after a bit of tweaking and adjustment, it actually wasn’t _too_ hard to achieve contact on all the points. Sure enough, the metal draws the plasma streams quite well, and it adds nicely to the ‘pulling power to energize the shield’ effect that I was aiming for with the model. Working so well, naturally I’m going to keep the modification on this studio model. I’m quite pleased… with how it… gives…

*Subtle’s voice trails off. Caught up in his wall-o’-text, he suddenly notices that he has carelessly wandered too close to a window!*

Aww crap! *Subtle’s face goes pale* Too late…

*The glass shatters, as the window explodes inward; a throng of appendages, each branded with the words “Higher Learning”, thrusting through the new found opening and quickly grab and grapple the aspiring designer, dragging him back into the gloom. The sounds of his desperate struggle to fight off and defeat the menace fade as he is dragged away. Faint words tumble back from The Dark…*

_*Much… more…* to… come!_


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## Ring Master "Honka"

I have a small question now that the plasma effect is drawn to the edge does it get hot?. 
I used to have a cheap one of these years ago and when i held my finger on the glass at that point would get pretty hot pretty quick.


loving these builds man keep them up.


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## Old Man78

Mate that plasma generator is [email protected]#king fantastic and a magnitude of talent better than the garbage void shield generator G.W brought out


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## JAMOB

So pretty! You have a real gift mate


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## Subtle Discord

Well then, I take it you like it?  Heh... yeah, the Shield Generator turned out even better then I was expecting, and it's been very well received. I was lurking a while back and found someone describing it as looking like a dooms-day device; I thought it was great and take that as high praise. Thanks as always for the feedback and input.

To answer, there are no heat problems with the pins or the lamp in general; I've been running my tower quite a bit (stress testing, really! ... *Eyes glaze over* Sooo pretty) and the base gets slightly warm where the PCB is with the hardware, but there's a lot of open space in the model so it doesn't build up at all. The globes themselves have no issues with getting hot at all, from what I can tell. When you've got several of them around it's hard not to play with them some when you first get them (and I test all of them before packing them) and there have been no heat issues at all. They run on 5-6v at ~0.5A to 2.0A (depending on the power source), so they're not exactly high wattage lamps.

I'm really glad people think this project turned out well. It's just driving home that I'm on the right track and I just need to keep it up. I'm virtually frothing at the mouth, waiting and working my way through my final year in college, until I can dive in to the studio full time, and take all of these proof-of-concept kits and ramp up everything to the next level. Everything starts Summer 2017! Sooo soon'ish...

Thanks again! More to come!


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## Subtle Discord

With a tiny window of opportunity, I feel like writing something, and perhaps rambling a little bit about some future plans and other stuff.









Having recently picked up a few hobby supplies, I had a chance to use some of this Tamiya Putty and I think it’s worth a few words.

A classmate of mine was using some of this Tamiya Putty on a model a while back and recommend it. I’ve seen it in the past, but I’ve had a tube of green Squadron Putty for years so I hadn’t given it a try. I was never completely happy with Squadron Putty when I used it, but when it comes to filling and smoothing really fine seams and cracks, a product like it really does the trick; where other products will struggle to hold tight in such as small area, modeling putty will do a better job. That’s the theory, but with Squadron Putty I’ve found it to be too coarse and prone to chipping and flaking away sometimes. The way it underperformed kinda’ soured me on products like this, truth be told.

So, recently I had to do a marathon model building session; taking a concept from a 3D model and making a 1/5 scale physical model of it in roughly 4 days. Very little sleep was had, to say the least, but I produced an excellent model and this wonderful product helped in its own way. With many layers coming together very quickly to build the required model, I used it quite a bit to clean up seams, layering, and other surface flaws that come with building something from scratch, and this stuff worked like a charm.

When cured it becomes very hard, resisting scratching and flaking, and with a nice satin almost plastic-like finish; I suspect it’s resilient enough to be drilled and carved/shaped in some situations. The solvents in it work really well to mildly etch into most surfaces and gently fuse it with styrene plastics to bond very tightly. When it’s sanded it will come off as a dry plaster-like powder, but any product remaining on the model will keep the tough plastic-like finish. Burnish it a little with a plastic bristle brush after you’ve filed, sanded, and worked this product, and it will be primer ready. Scratches, seams, gaps, and all sorts of other flaws simply vanish.

After seeing it suggested, I had planned on tinning some of the Tamiya Putty down to use it as a form of surface glaze for particular situations where you want a very thin layer. Turns out that Tamiya noticed that modellers were doing this, and made it into a ready-to-use product, the pictured Surface Primer G. Having never made the stuff before I was happy to pick up a bottle and take the guesswork out of it. When I make better use of both of these on some hobby models I’ll take some pictures of the results and talk more about technique when using it. Put simply, if you scratch build and/or are particular about cleaning up seam lines on models, _get_ some of this stuff!









Meet Tweedledum and Tweedledee, the seeds of inspiration for the first Dark Mechanicus constructs I want to create.

I personally still much prefer the traditional Dreadnaught model to the Helbrute that the unit has become. I had plans to pick up a FW Iron Warriors Dreadnaught and add it as a companion to this Black Legion one. With FW discontinuing the model before I could get one, well then, they’ve simply forced me to create my own alternative. In this case I’m aiming to find some middle ground between the new bio-mechanical ‘Brute and the old-school walking sarcophagus that is the Dreadnaught. I like the curved armour forms of the ‘Brute but I want it closer to the Legion Dread in execution and style.

So the Dreadnaught is going to tag along with the Decimator as it’s completed, because it’s been half-finished for _far _too long. To show that there really is paint involved, I’ve included a small progress shot; I was hoping to get a little more done on it before I was forced to stop, but you know how it is. *Shakes an angry fist at life*

Since I was considering the build of a smaller Dark Mechanicus construct and painting the Decimator, it got me thinking just how straight forward the Decimator is, in reality; it’s just a large central tube/cylinder plastered with hoses and wires, with some armour plates wrapped around it all, really. Not that difficult a concept to adapt and refine, I should think. For me, as with the Dreadnaught, the Decimator is the look I prefer in a Daemon Engine construct; a mechanical brute monstrosity forcibly infused with a daemonic entity to give it purpose – not fed and/or grown in any way, but a coldly manufactured and assembled product. Well then, I might just have to explore something on a medium scale as well, yes? … _Yes!_

Do you hear that? … Yep, _that’s_ the sound of another can-of-worms cracking open.

While I’ve picked up several models from GW/FW over the last few years, most are carefully planned to have a long road of service in my studio as ‘scaffolds’ for future kit designs, before they’ll become personal projects that I can actually finish. So, to celebrate my most recent complete revolution of our sun, I choose to pick up something that is purely a personal project that can proceed without delay, once the demands of college are finally done.









Meet Tweedle*DEAD!* The Kytan Daemon Engine; a very suitable (starting) centerpiece model for the Dark Mechanicus element of my collection.

This is the first time I’ve received something from FW packaged like this. Usually the parts are simply in a bag surrounded by plastic packing pillows. It’s such a pleasant surprise to get the kit this way, it seemed worthy of note. When you’re purchasing a premium product like this it’s nice when it’s packed accordingly. After closer inspection I can say that _this_ is what a FW model _should_ be like; the quality and execution of the parts is very good; reasonable mould lines, very nice surface quality, no noticeable warping, and an acceptably low number of bubbles. Well done FW, I hope future kits will continue this trend.









A tiny bit of subtle layering noticeable in the toe of the Kytan hints at the 3D printed origins of the master model used for this kit.

Just look at those legs, and compare them to some of the new Mechanicus line and tell me they don’t share a similar design esthetic; yep, this is going to work. I’m not really a fan of the FW Chaos Knight kit; too much teeth, horns, and splitting armour for my taste, and combined with such a clean base model, it just doesn’t work for me. Naturally, I have my own plans to create some suitably ‘Renegade Knight’ style kits in the future, but that’s another story for another day. So, for my money, as with earlier examples, I personally prefer the mostly mechanical esthetic that the Kytan has for a unique knight-scale Chaos Daemon Engine model.









One only need look to this kit to see that GW/FW are well aware of the state of 3D printing technology, and taking full advantage.

It was a very high quality 3D print used to create the master for this model, and the accuracy of the entire model is very tight because of it; the perfectly symmetrical and wonderfully smooth curved elements especially benefit from the process. There’s a few tiny spots where the 3D print process of the original model can be seen, but they really are few in number and very subtle; very easy to ignore or to clean up at your discretion. The fit and finish are so nice it’s almost begging to be put together right now. Soon, you wonderful psychopathic-daemon-infused-murder-bot, you! Soon!

As with the Decimator, I’m torn with what to do to personalize the Kytan; it’s such a nice model in its own right there’s nothing wrong with it being built as-is (basically what I did with the Decimator), but in this case I think it’s going to need something to make it more Dark Mechanicus. Removing and replacing all of the Khorne iconography will be the obvious place to start, but I have a few whispers from the warp in the back of my mind suggesting that I should remove the cannon from the left arm and mount it on/over/behind the shoulder. Then both arms can be armed with combat weapons of some sort, to emphasize the Kytan’s combat proficiency; perhaps matching weapons or maybe purposely different for some variety; either could work really well. Considering how common of a design element it is on Mechanicus robots in both 30k and 40k, I think shoulder mounting the ballistic weapon would go a long way to tie it into the Dark Mechanicus theme I’ll be going for with this build.

Sooo… I _guess _I’ve also got my (first) large scale Dark Mechanicus construct concept on the drawing board, as it were, to go along with the small and medium concept ideas that started me down this Dark path to begin with. You see how the worms start to get out, and _everywhere,_ if I let the ideas have too much freedom? Buuut, the image is beginning to take form in my mind, I don’t think I have any choice now, but to make it real.

Please, stand by… more to come. Soon'ish.


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++ Designation: Kytan Daemon Engine/Construct +++ Classification: Variant - Unknown +++ Further Reconnaissance Incoming - Stand By +++


----------



## Subtle Discord

So, bowing to the temptation that is procrastination and distraction, I did get a few hours to do some building of the Kytan.


























I wish I had more time to write something now, but this teaser storyboard will have to do. In a bit, I'll get some full images up of the progress completed so far, plus some write up. I'm quite pleased with the direction it's going so far; still room for further refinement/adjustment if I choose, but a solid bash that I think is going to work quite well and be very unique.


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## Subtle Discord

Edit: through the miracle of time-laps photography, this process looks almost effortless and kinda' quick. While not really that hard to do, especially with something this large, the process takes a bit of care and _lots_ more time. This took roughly 1.5 hours to do.


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## Subtle Discord

Note: I have no concrete idea why there’s a darker ghost/shadow left in the plastic when I remove details like in the previous images. If I had to guess I would say that the pigments in the plastic cure differently in (or are drawn to) the center of the part as it cools.

Ok, with a small lull between college projects (that’s all but gone as I write this), I gave in and spent some hours doing a bit of assembly and kit-bashing with the Kytan. As mentioned before the Kytan is a personal project, so I’m finding it very difficult to ignore it. I can do anything I want with this wonderful kit! It calls to me… So, the simple plan is, move it away from ‘Khorne Daemon Engine’ and shift it towards ‘Dark Mechanicus Daemon Engine’









Taking inspiration from several Mechanicum and Mechanicus robot models I settled on moving the cannon to an over-the-shoulder design.

When I saw the FW Mechanicum Castellax Atomata pictured on the left I knew I found my primary inspiration; move the cannon to the shoulder and put combat weapons in both hands (and I mean literally ‘in’ the hands/arms) to reflect the combat proficiency of the Kytan. It gets an extra attack after all, so it ‘needs’ two combat weapons, right? Rule of Cool says… yes!

I’m still deciding if I’m going to emulate the Castellax and do circular blades; it’s tempting, but I have another idea or two that I want to consider before I settle in the final form. For now I started work on the shoulder mount for the cannon. At first I had considered doing something more scratch built, but when I got looking at some of the bits I had, I started playing with this kit-bash.









I had planned on putting a single cannon on the shoulder, and then *this* happened! I guess it ‘needs’ two cannons as well. Rule of Cool _does_ say two _is_ better than one, after all!

I’ve had these cannons from the Forgefiend kit assembled for a while, and I was considering using one/both on the Decimator as Butcher Cannons, but the scale and form just didn’t fit with the model. They have rounded elements that suit their new purpose much better. A bit of styrene tubing and they’re virtually made to mount on the end of a Defiler leg.

I’m also particularly pleased with the simple-yet-effective addition of the optics and vox to the side of the head. It’s a small thing, but I’ve had the bit kicking around for ages, waiting for a worthy project, and I think it’s a perfect detail to add to the theme.









What serious Chaos collector doesn’t have at least a few Defiler parts (kits) kicking around? Humm… This might just work.

These images are Kytan 0.1, with my first attempt to build an armature for the cannons. I liked the pose/stance of the cannons and the overall silhouette it created; it had the right idea, but it seemed like it could use something… more. So I gave it another try.
















Kytan 0.2 - Improvement through experimentation, iteration, and upgrade. I think the Mechanicus would approve.

As usual with something at this point of the build, this is only half glued together and everything else is being held in place by poster tack, friction, and hope, so the stance and alignment isn’t final by any means, just an early showcase.

By switching up to the larger front leg of the Defiler kit I could get the exact same form and silhouette in the armature but with some added bulk and more visual interest; I think it feels much more complete. I also like how the curved armor plate helps to transition the hard lines of the Defiler parts into the rounder Kytan body.

I’m adding rivets to the spots that are missing them due to the limitations of the styrene casting processes; another little thing, but I think it’s adding up nicely over the whole build. And for anyone curious, the pipes/cables leading from the armature to the Kytan body were heated in boiling water and _carefully_ bent into shape over several dips and slow adjustment. Styrene is a thermodynamic plastic, which essentially means that you can heat it (all the way to liquid, if you want), shape it while hot, and it will cool and hold the heat-formed shape it was given. Every once-and-awhile you can use it to your advantage and simply bend the part to your will.









It makes me wish I had a to-scale gantry and/or scaffold to hang it from as it gets assembled; with servators and robotics working away to complete it. It would make a great diorama.

Next up, the arms. Again, I’m torn between two circular blades a-la Castellax Automata, or another configuration of my own design. They will be much more (likely all) scratch built, so I’ll have much more freedom in their form. I might need to model 2-3 variations in Solidworks to really get a feel for the final design. Because of how pose’able and awesome the leg assemblies are, I don’t think I’ll be doing much modification to them; it will come down to pose and the composition of the base to take full advantage of the legs, I think.

But unfortunately, there’s no time for that now. So ends another small chapter in the much larger story. Thanks for reading, and if you’re so inclined, writing a few words. As always, more to come.


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## Subtle Discord

Now, a brief moment of procrastination, by Subtle Discord. Ongoing iterations and experimentation with options for the Mechanicus Militia that will fill the ranks of my future Renegades Platoons. My new muse is proving very hard to ignore; spring can’t get here fast enough. Must… build... more… models! I’ve got a serious itch to take my new Mechanicus infatuation in a few directions. For now, I want to explore some solutions that I can use to easily produce large numbers of Renegades with ranged weapons.









Left – My original idea; bash Autoguns from various sources. Right – A new idea; bash some more of the Skitarii kit into the build.

With the release of the new Genestealer Neophyte Hybrid kits there should be no problem getting Autoguns to bash into these squads; which is good, because harvesting them from the Chaos Cultists is not an ideal source. Cleanly removing the Lasgun from the right arm of the IG model is also a bit of a pain, but I really want to use something other than Lasguns, to give them a unique look. I like the mass-produced utilitarian result that the Autogun gives, buuuut…

… the Skitarii Vanguard/Rangers kit provides an interesting counts-as option that I didn’t consider at first. I’ll be using the Radium Carbines with the actual Skitarii models, so that leaves lots of the Galvanic Rifles in my bits box. After some test fits, I’m surprised how well many of the arms fit on a regular IG torso; even the sleeves don’t look too bad, given that they’re wearing a tunic under the Flak armour. I’ve taken a section out of the rifle to shorten it (All hail the power of Tamiya Extra Thin cement to do super clean joins and seams!) and the final result is really starting to grow on me. It takes the models in a different direction, being more elegant, and the extra detail isn’t a bad thing. Hummm… Decisions. Decisions.

Oh well, that’s all the time I have for now. More scraps and bits of ideas to come, until spring, when I can really get started on some projects! *Subtle’s eye begins to twitch a bit, a bit of froth forming in the corner of his mouth* Just five more months…


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## Subtle Discord

*New projects and more... incoming...*

+
+++
++
++++++
+
++ Modulating…
++ Re-scanning…
++++++++
+++
++ Signal Detect…
++++++
++++
+++++++++
++ Comm-Link Authenticated…
++ Decrypting…
+++
++++++++
++++++++++
++ Primary Explorator Mission ++ Planned Duration: 1,826.25 standard cycles ++ On Schedule ++
++ Hard Data Harvest Complete ++ Acquisition of information, skill, experience… Successful ++
++ Resistance Encountered - Moderate ++ Combat Asset Casualties - Within Parameters ++
++ Discovery + Experimentation + Iteration + Simulation ++ Construct Template… Repaired ++
++ Return Protocol Active ++ Estimated Transit Duration: 104.1 standard cycles ++ On Schedule ++
++
























++
++ Message Repeat ++
++Return Protocol Active ++ Estimated Transit Duration: 104.1 standard cycles ++ On Schedule ++
+++++++
+++
+++++++++
++++
+
+
++++++
+++

Final semester of the final year, with ~12 weeks remaining. Still much to finish (finally!) followed by so much to start to figure out. But, things are about to get... interesting. I've got so many ideas bouncing around in my head, it's almost giving me a nosebleed, but I _must..._*remain...* _*focused!*_ I can see the end, now for the final sprint. As always, so much more, starting soon... and this time I mean *soon! **Subtle's eye begins to twitch, and a bit of froth starts to form in his mouth, as he starts to shake a little* I'm one part excited and one part petrified; is that a good thing? *Nervous laugh*


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## Subtle Discord

Since I forgot to add the pictures of my kit-bashed counts-as Rogue Psykers for my R&H Dark Mechanicus to Legion Rising, and I’m looking for an excuse to procrastinate a little…








After playing with the Electro-Priest kit some I came up with three combinations of Fulgurite and Corpuscarii arms that I think actually work quite well.

A few of the hands need a bit of file work to shape them some, but nothing really serious. Either of the ‘dynamo backpacks’ can line up the cables that lead to the gloves with just a bit of modification. I also shortened the staves-made-maces a bit to give them a better proportion. Finally, the Ruststalker heads simply work better with the concept in my mind and they were easy to add; they only needed a small shim of plastic to get them in to good position. A straightforward but effective kit-bash.









Astounding psychic powers! Amaze your friends! Curse your enemies! **Some side effects may include dry mouth, loss of appetite, nosebleeds, daemonic possession, and agonizing death.

With daemonic possession a regular occupational hazard I’ll need some models to represent the outcome. I wasn’t sure how I was going to pull it off until I saw the Revenants. With a little bit of file work to remove the leaf elements and a bit of green stuff to fill any undesirable details and I think they’ll do well to represent a demonic entity tearing in to reality through a tasty mortal host. I’m going to try and keep a bit of the tech, mangled and destroyed, and graft the Revenant from the waste up; as seen in the quick Photoshop cut-and-paste.

Ten weeks, and the hobby sabbatical can finally start. More more to come. I can't wait to start building and painting with less constraints again.

01001110 01000101 01010100 01000011 01001111 01001101 01001101 00100011 00110001 00111010 01001100 01001111


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## Subtle Discord

Hello. My (nic) name is Subtle Discord... and I have an addiction... _to *plastic*._

While I have dabbled in ABS and pure Acrylic (I prefer my Acrylic in liquid paint form), I have become a Polyholic, with my plastics of choice being Polystyrene and Polyurethane. I started in my early teens not even considering it could never happen to me, and I've kicked the habit a few times over the years, but it always returned. As I observe my current plastic hoard grow more elaborate and extensive then ever, I see now that this time the condition is here for good.

So, while I'm now comfortable with my addiction and have come to accept and embrace it, I just wanted to provide fair warning that such a condition can develop. To illustrate, pictured below is _just one_ of my 'stashes' of high quality Polystyrene, ready for my next several binges of scratch building. I suspect I'm going to need a good stockpile with some of the things I have planned, so this is just a portion of my preparations. *Insert maniacal laugh and mood lighting here*









After working with some of styrene rivets made by Tichy Train Group in 2016, I was so pleased with the ease-of-use and final results I invested in rounding out my selection.

I've tried to used micro-beads in the past to do round rivets, and I was completely frustrated by the process; it's just too difficult to get really clean consistent results, and with the huge number of rivets I can put in one build, it made the process all but useless for me. After using these Tichy rivets, I'll be hard pressed to consider another solution. They do have a tiny bit of flash, but I've found its so small that it simply melts away when the solvent is applied to the part.

They are easily worth the cost for the time savings from ease-of use, and results they give. Simply drill a tiny hole, cut a rivet free from the sprew, and use some tweezers to drop the post into the hole; touch it with a _tiny_ bit of solvent glue, apply a _tiny_ bit of pressure, and it will fuse into a perfect round rivet every time. The larger rivets are a bit too big at 28mm scale as actual rivets, but they make a good solution for optic lenses if you place them in a small tube/ring of plastic, and that's the main reason for me getting some that large.

The smaller ones (0.035" and lower) come in packs of 200, and larger one (0.04" and higher) all come in packs of 96. (Note: there are additional 'odd' sizes in the full line, between the sizes pictured in detail.) Large projects can quickly use large numbers of rivets, so naturally mileage may vary; but if you're scratch building is more modest in scale, a small investment can last a long time and make adding rivet details to something an easy endeavor, instead of something that might be a daunting challenge.

Ok, *sigh* ... that's enough procrastination for me. Back to work. Just 9 more weeks until my freedom from higher learning, and I'm practically climbing the walls in anticipation. So soon. So very soon... *Insert ominous music here*


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## Subtle Discord

Another small entry in my Dark Mechanicus project arriving soon. Spare bits made useful; the Auto-Cannon Heavy Weapon Team.


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## Subtle Discord

With a tiny window of time available, I took a brief moment to procrastinate and explore an idea I had to make some Heavy Weapon Teams for my Dark Mechanicus themed Renegades & Heretics. I had first thought of using the Cadian Heavy Weapon kit with my obligatory Skitarii backpack and head-swap; I was considering ways I could modify or replace the weapons to make them more Mechanicus, but the idea was falling a bit flat with me.

However, as my modest IA:13 Dark Mechanicus project has since grown to include a collection built from the Skitarii and Cult Mechanicus codices, this little idea quickly took form. I have an affinity for the Ironstrider models, and plan to build some Dragoons to start; in an army with so many wonderfully exotic ranged weapon options, equipping them with Auto-Cannons or Las-Cannons seems a bit underwhelming. I get the mobility of the weapon platform, but it still doesn’t resonate with me like Dragoons with their Taser Lances. And since the model doesn’t lend itself to magnetization, I’m left with these excellent weapon bits looking for a purpose.









The armour plate doesn’t play nice with the normal heavy weapon tripod, but I devised another idea with a few of the other bits. 

Just a couple of tiny scratch-built parts was enough to create some connection points, and it’s as simple as that. For now it’s more of a proof-of-concept really; I like the solution, but I want to create something from scratch that is purpose built for the task and refines how all the parts come together. 

















 It’s a wonderfully simple idea compared to some of the other concepts bouncing around inside my mind, so it’s kinda’ refreshing.

Naturally, Heavy Weapon Teams can’t take twin-linked Auto-Cannons, but the rule of cool always takes precedence. Considering how straight forward the solution is, this little kit-bash is all but impossible to pass it up. I can’t wait to have a closer look at some of the left over bits in some of the other Mechanicus kits, and see how they might prove useful.

Ok, with that small hobby itch scratched… a tiny bit… for now… I’m forced to return to other matters that require my attention. Thanks, as always, for reading. *Sigh* Soon my little plastic minions. Soon.


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## Kreuger

Looking very well executed as usual. I look forward to your new projects.


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## Chaosftw

wow! this is crazy! love your conversions! the attention to detail is excellent!


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## Subtle Discord

++ Cogitator ∙ Online
+++++
++ Establishing Link ∙ Connecting…
++++++++++++
++++++++
+++ Procrastination Protocols ∙ Initialized…
++++++
++ Inquiry Request ∙ COROT
++++++++
++ Compiling Data Results ∙ Displaying…
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++++++++
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++ Compiling Data Results ∙ Halt…
+++
++ Request ∙ Access Authorization…
++++++
++ Confirming Scan ∙ Stand-By…
+++
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+


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## Roganzar

Subtle Discord said:


> ++ Cogitator ∙ Online
> +++++
> ++ Establishing Link ∙ Connecting…
> ++++++++++++
> ++++++++
> +++ Procrastination Protocols ∙ Initialized…
> ++++++
> ++ Inquiry Request ∙ COROT
> ++++++++
> ++ Compiling Data Results ∙ Displaying…
> +++++
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ++++++++
> ++++
> ++ Compiling Data Results ∙ Halt…
> +++
> ++ Request ∙ Access Authorization…
> ++++++
> ++ Confirming Scan ∙ Stand-By…
> +++
> ++++++++++
> +++++
> +


Lousy Scrapcode! Which acolyte failed to recite the proper prayers and anoint the holy oils? Now I have to preform the rites of Zealous Collision. Damn cogitator, produce more awesome things,


----------



## Kreuger

It's always a good day when @Subtle Discord engages the procrastination protocols! 

Whatever you have in the pipeline, I'm looking forward to it.


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## Subtle Discord

+++++
++++++++++
++ Procrastination Protocols ∙Deactivated ++
++++
++
++ Tease Subroutines∙ Initialized ++
+++++
++ Display∙ Preview Image ++
+++








Provided with a holiday weekend, I permitted myself some distraction for an afternoon, and bashed this Heretek Magus Errant; future Arch-Demagogue for my R&H Dark Mechanicus.

"Labour Units 033439-034877... Disengage current duties. You have been selected for improvement and upgrade. Proceed to Maintenance Facility 33A for processing."

+++
+++++++++++
+++++
++ Update to Follow ++
++++++++
++ Stand By ++
++++
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++ Scholastic Protocols ∙Initialized ++
++ Final Data Compile∙ In Progress... ++
++
+


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## Spoticus

Very inspirational work there. I will definitely look into your site.


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## Subtle Discord

+
++ Irradial Cogitator ∙ Online
++++++
++ Establishing Comm-Link ∙ Connecting…
+++
+++++++++
+++++++
+++ Productivity Protocols ∙ Initialized
++++
++ Inquiry Request ∙ COROT
++++++++
++++++
Request ∙ Access Authorization
++++++++++
Confirming Scan ∙ Stand-by…
Confirming Scan ∙ Matched
+++++++
++ Compiling Data Results ∙ Displaying…
+++++


















++*COROT-Exo-7b ∙ Atrum Laboris ∙ The Dark Works*’ rotation is tidally locked to the orbital period of the planet; temperatures and geologic conditions on the sides of the planet facing towards and away from the star are dramatically different. Where the night-side hemisphere plunges to -350°F forming a stable planetary surface of desolate splendor, in stark contrast the day-side hemisphere is as hot as the tungsten filament of an incandescent bulb, resulting in the formation of a vast ocean of lava. The only natural atmosphere of this planet is produced from the vapors arising from the molten silicates in this vast ocean, causing weather events comprised of stone, as pebbles and rocks condense out of the air to rain down into the molten hellscape below. A round world made ostensibly flat, the division between the hemispheres is referred to as Horizon, and revered it as a sacred divide; the population of The Dark Works understand that while their world is a sphere it also has a very real edge, beyond which a hellish oblivion lay, but from that oblivion their power is drawn, quite literally.

++ The Mechanicus of The Dark Works have taken the concept of Forge World to a literal culmination with the construction of Mundis Fornax ∙ The World Furnace; where other Forge Worlds might hollow a planet for raw materials and build massive structures upward into the sky, the vast majority of The Dark Works burrows carefully into the night-side crust surrounding the molten mass that comprises the majority of the planet. Constructed over several millennia, with further progress continuing, a linked series of colossal geo-thermal extraction complexes of unparalleled scale harness essentially the entire planet, producing the massive amounts of thermal energy and motive force required for large scale production, power a multitude of experiments and explorations, and to maintain the remarkable equilibrium that has been created. The planet itself is considered so sacred by its population that it is never used as materials in common manufacturing, with the vast majority of any extracted material being ceremoniously returned to the molten ocean; only very small portions of specific constituents are extracted and reserved for the production of exceptional wargear and deeply sacred objects. A tiny sealed ampule containing a few grains of stone precipitation, presented to those servants of Atrum Laboris who have distinguished themselves in some significant way in their service to The Forge, is one rare and revered example.

++ The extremely close and rapid orbit of COROT-Exo-7b around its massive Blue Giant host star provides other pronounced advantages that have combined to make The Dark Works essentially unassailable, permitting it to assert its independence. Any spacecraft attempting to reach the Forge World has no choice but to follow a very small corridor, using the planet itself as a solar shield as it approaches; any attempt to flank the planet at ranges close enough to launch a meaningful attack must contend with solar energies and gravitational forces so intense that a fleet would be twisted, mangled, and turned to carbon cinders plummeting towards the star in short order. The intense gravity in particular, which was somewhat crudely compensated for during the construction of Mundis Fornax, became a force that could be carefully studied, experimented with, and ultimately harnessed, once the output of The World Furnace was online and able to internally sustain the required gravitational stability for a habitable environment.

++ In turn the Mechanicus of The Dark Works applied their uniquely deep understanding of gravity to construct a trio of Super-Heavy Graviton Cannons of unprecedented proportions to act as the ultimate gatekeepers to the planet. The brilliance of this Graviton Array lay in the way it operates; not only can it produce and manipulate its own gravity field, it can also create a form of gravity well to act as a giant amplifier that can harness, focus, and project, the massive gravitational forces of the star itself to catastrophic effect. Approaching craft that are expected will have the extreme gravitational forces of the massive star carefully compensated for, providing an effortless approach to the Forge World. Should anything undesirable attempt to close on the planet a series of options are afforded by the enormous Graviton Array; simply denying to compensate for the natural gravitational forces of the star is generally enough to stop an unwanted approach. However, the colossal array can easily use its effects to twist, sheer, and/or implode, dense or heavily armoured targets into so much raw material ready for harvest and re-purposing. Alternately, lighter targets that may attempt to rapidly advance on the planet can be effortlessly deflected out of the small safe-approach corridor and be forced to contend with the unrelenting solar energies of COROT-7. Given the abundance of motive force that can be directed from Mundis Fornax to the Graviton Array at a moment’s notice, it can be charged and ready to activate remarkably quickly for such an enormous device.

++ Given its uniquely defensible position, Atrum Laboris has chosen to carefully assert and maintain an autonomous standing. Understandably (and justifiably), there is considerable suspicion surrounding the nature of the research, experimentation, and development, undertaken in the darker recesses of this secretive Forge World; the Fabricator Generals, Locum, and High Priests of The Dark Works understand only too well that they must walk this path carefully and are therefore very adept in the manner of their negotiations with any given outside party. Great care is taken to conduct themselves accordingly through a selection of appropriate representatives who can engage in negotiations with a wide range of clientele, who in turn have a wide range of needs. Despite having a broad selection available that is absolutely unsanctioned, the care with which transactions are conducted has kept direct links to the Forge World well protected and obscured. With appropriate tithes consistently delivered, and quality legal munitions, weapons, armour, and wargear, on offer to those who can accommodate the price, suspicion alone has not been enough to warrant an attempt to test the intimidating defenses of this entrenched Forge World.

+++
+++++
++ Data File ∙ End
++++
+++++++
++ Compiling Data Results ∙ Ongoing…
++ Stand-by…
+++
++ Comm-Link ∙ Active…
+++++++++
+++
+++++
+


----------



## Subtle Discord

*Subtle gnashes his teeth, head-butts his keyboard, and deletes a second ramble of words that just doesn’t seem right*

Me no have right words! Why life so distracting? Ideas to share stuck in brain! Ideas good, but maybe… too… many!? Go away pesky real life.

*Subtle swats and flails at some unseen spectre harassing him, and then notices he’s not alone… he smiles sheepishly and composes himself*

*Cough* Errr… Yeah, so life is going to have me a _little_ more distracted then I was expecting; I can finally take the hat of ‘student’ off, but I’m still wearing ‘husband’, ‘father’, and ‘homeowner’, while trying to figure out how to get the ‘proprietor’ hat to fit right. I’ll still have personal hobby time (individual sanity demands some hobby time; muuuch more in a moment), but other obligations are going to need to get sorted out before I can settle in to some semblance of a proper routine and get up-to-speed with various plans. The timing isn’t bad I guess, considering the current flux that 40k is in.

That said, for the first time in a looong time I _have_ some time… and I’m suddenly caught in the midst of a bout of Hobby ADHD. I’ve got more than a few projects planned, so I’m sure it shouldn’t be a problem to try and do 5 or 6 of them at once! *Manic grin. Eye twitch… twitch, twitch…* The whispers from the Warp keep saying it’s a good notion, but they also keep giggling as they offer each new inspiration and motivation, so I’m growing suspicious of them as I’m reaching cognitive saturation.  But really, I’m sure it’s a combination of finally having some proper hobby time after such a long hiatus, and naturally the uncertainty of the entire Warhammer 40k setting as the bits-and-pieces are being released and leaked. I like to build and paint using a legit army list in an attempt to keep me on track, but that’s all out the window right now… sorta’. Even as I’ve been writing this article leaks have started to find the light of day, so that should help in the short term to avoid any major pitfalls in assembling a few models.

*WARNING:* Massive wall-o’-text-and-images incoming! Enter at your own risk. 

Ok, so this is going to be a rather _sizable_ mental offload, so you might want to grab a snack, beverage, and/or libation of choice, if you’re so inclined…









What’s a cult of Dark Mechanicus without a scheming malevolent super computer, after all? Initiate, the *Irradial Cogitator!* … Uh, some (lots of) assembly required.

A completely tangent side project for a bit of fun, I want to make a scenery model of an Irradial Cogitator loosely based on one of the few images I’ve found providing an idea what one might look like. I won’t be matching the look and details of the image exactly, but the monolith form, central screen, and pipework feeding up from the ground are elements I can use as I put my own take on the idea. An LCD picture frame built into the model will serve well for the purpose of the screen, and I have some plans in the works for some other lighting elements as well. Still very early in the build, this will be the central rectangular shape, which will then get a ton of detailing layered up on the outside to really bulk it up and embellish it. This will be a slow-burn kind of project, that won’t take as much of a priority, but it should pop up from time-to-time with progress updates.

















Assembled before 8th edition was announced, it’s hard to say if this Heretek Magus won’t be altered before I finish him. He might need just a bit more… _something._

Intended as a commander of a Renegades & Heretics force of ‘Mechanicus Militia’ I think the stature of the Enginseer model does well to strike a balance between a Mechanicus-R&H infantry model and a proper Tech-Priest Dominus. Personally, I think the the main body is great, but it just needed something to elevate the model a bit more and the servo-harness is the perfect opportunity. The Mechanicus kits are positively silly with extra bits to sprinkle about in kit-bashing. More bits are always a good thing, and it makes bashing like this a pleasure.

Limited in the weapon options available for a R&H Demagogue, I chose to splurge and give him a Plasma Pistol in an attempt to synergize its range with the Meltagun that was planned for the Command Squad; the squad is really meant to hang back and provide protection to support assets like Rapiers or artillery, so the Plasma seemed to suit the role and add a little bite to the Heretek Magus. In light of some of the recent information about weapons in 8th edition, who knows, the Plasma Pistol might even stay. 









I’ve been looking for something to add a bit of visual interest to the Ash Waste basing scheme I use for a while, and GWs Agrellan Earth texture paint really fits the bill.


Getting back to assembling some ground troops, I’ve taken the opportunity to consider my basing scheme. Wanting a completely lifeless landscape for the basing of my army, I didn’t want to use static grass or charred foliage to add interest. The textured stone was a good start but I wanted something more. I’ve tired other ‘crackle paint’ products with some moderate results, but it’s usually very hit-and-miss and doesn’t crack at the right scale. Credit should be given to GW for some of the specialty paints in their line, like Agrellan Earth, which gives very consistent results that suits the scale very nicely; for standard paints there are several brands that all perform reasonably similarly, and it comes down to personal choice and availability, but GW does offer some unique products that are hard or impossible to find in other offerings. I recently got a bottle of Nihilakh Oxide, which easily produces the most wonderfully authentic looking copper patina, as another example. I think I’ll explore a few more of the specialty products in the future for a few more of the gems in the line.









 With the lighter stature of models in the Ad Mech line, I wasn’t happy with the first models I did; to me, the feet were just too sunken into a surface that would likely have very little give. 

With Power Armour models I don’t mind as much when the feet are sunken into the surface created by the basing; it seems quite reasonable that the considerable weight of the armour might have it sink into the ground some. The Ad Mech are a different story, but with the delicate nature of the feet on the Skitarii models pinning seemed like too much of a hassle. I also prefer to attach the model directly to the base so I can compose the look a little. For me, this completely killed the idea of doing the basing then adding the model after, so I figured it would be easier to just give the models 0.5mm lifts with some shims of styrene.









Excellent, just enough of a gap to have the model sit on top of the basing material, instead of sunken into it. 10 Skitarii down, 30-40 to go… *Eyes glaze over and go slightly crossed*

I’ve long been an advocate for doing as much basing as possible on a model, before priming. I do myself a favor and make it part of the assembly of the model to get it over with early; be honest with yourself, you know you never want to do it _after_ you’re done painting a model, so make it part of the build process from the start. From there, it simply gets painted with the rest of the model and it really does make the addition of the basing cleaner, cohesive, more durable, and much less daunting to finish.









This ‘Raider has been waiting so long for paint that the black pigment in the resin has been discoloured by the ultraviolet (UV) light of the fluorescent lighting it’s been exposed to.

It’s only been the last few years that I’ve really started to appreciate the damaging potential of UV light; especially after seeing this discolouration developed on a few other models. What’s telling for me is that my painting area is setup in a corner of a basement and it gets very little natural daylight, so all of this damage has been done by artificial lighting. The takeaway for me is that a final varnish with a product that expressly states that it’s UV resistant wouldn’t go amiss, especially if the models are going to be on display under intense light of any kind.

Being at least 6 or 7 years old, this Land Raider was a personal project model that got sidetracked into early service for the studio, going on to help me create several kits for the Land Raider chassis. With a replacement model obtained, it’s finally time to let this model return to its original purpose and see some paint! First up, the final assembly and attaching of the armour kit, and a serious future consideration; attaching such a large part in one go using Super Glue is quite tricky and in the future I think I’ll use 5 minute Epoxy for a job such as this to provide a bit of working time to ensure a good fit. I was able to get a good results, but there are a few small spots where I would have liked to adjust the fit slightly, but the fast setting Super Glue is _very_ unforgiving.









Buuut, _before_ this model sees any paint it needed to get _roughed-up_ a little bit to give it a some extra character.

The files are used as you’d expect, to add dings, scratches, and dents in strategic edges and surfaces. Where those tools are used to cut away material to make a mark, I use the smooth metal rod to put marks in the plastic with hard physical pressure. Carefully pressing and scraping this tool on surfaces and edges creates marks in the plastic without removing material and that slightly deforms the surface, making the cosmetic damage effect a little more authentic looking in some places.

I was tempted to do a spot or two of more elaborate damage to make it look like the ‘Raider had taken a few hits. However, since this model has waited so long already, I chose to save that treatment for some future projects; I’ll aim to start with completing a selection of well-maintained vehicles before I do some with a bit of battle damage to add some extra character to the collection.









The challenge of priming a partially assembled model; you want primer _almost_ everywhere, but you want to _avoid_ some stupidly small or fiddly spot so you can build it later.

During the masking process I did happen to discover that a common CR2032 battery is actually the perfect size to cut circles for masking the holes in the Land Raider and Rhino models. It’s just large enough to mask a very thin ring around the opening, perfect for gluing discreetly in later assembly. I also use a pencil sharpener to give some low cost dollar-store dowels a bit of a taper so they can fit snugly in the various weapons; this made them easier to handle while priming, while also blocking paint from getting where it wasn’t wanted.









Look, Jeff Dunham would be proud! A Heavy Bolter… on a stick. A Las-Cannon… on a stick. Even a whole Land Raider… on a stick!

It can be frustrating sometimes, dealing with the dilemma of how to safely hold a large model in some way that permits you to turn and rotate it in every direction in order to evenly apply the primer. Then you need to be able to put it down in some manner, to allow it time to dry, but you can’t touch it in any way. In this case I was lucky to have a heavy cardboard tube that fit very snugly through the Land Raider’s doors, providing an excellent temporary handle. It’s worked so well, I think I’ll keep it in place to help with the painting process.









I’ve had the overwhelming urge to _paint things *black*_ recently. This ‘Raider is only the start. There’s something so very satisfying about the unification that happens when priming a model.

I haven’t had a chance to put any more paint on this yet, but it’s sitting on the bench calling to me to get started. This will also open _another_ door, once it starts to get closer to completion; what’s a Land Raider without a squad of Terminators for it to transport, after all? Time to dust off another old project, me thinks. A new edition where Terminators might just perform better is as good a time as any to finish them up, I suppose. More on this and that when I have a chance to dig up some bits-and-pieces, take stock, and make some progress.









Oh look, something else that I felt compelled to paint black. And I’ve even had time to add some more colour.

I figured the Shield Generator would be a good candidate for some paint sooner rather than later. It’s a very successful model in general that I really want to see painted, but it’s also something that can find a home in more than one army list, so there’s nothing wrong with versatility. I’ve extolled the virtues before, but I feel compelled to say again just how good the Vallejo Liquid Gold/Silver/Copper line is. The tiny learning curve required because it is an alcohol based product shouldn’t stop anyone from giving this line a try if they’re going to be doing large areas of metallic colours. While there are some solid Silver alternatives (Vallejo Air Silver, for example) I have yet to find any water based acrylic Gold paint that compares to the results of the Liquid Gold from this line, and the Copper is just as amazing. One coat over virtually any colour, and then just a quick touch-up and it’s done. Just be sure to have a bottle of 90%+ Isopropyl Alcohol around for cleaning brushes and thinning the paint while you work; the alcohol evaporates very fast, which is good for drying times on a model, but it also dries quickly on your pallet.









The notion to mix up a few paints and washes quickly turned into… _this._ Ok, it’s time to get the painting area organized again.

Since I’m finally able to get back to painting, I’ve discovered that some of my Black highlight colours have turned to sludge. Given the consistency, I didn’t want to try and rejuvenate them, and I was interested in slightly altering the highlight process to tone it down a little anyhow. So I set about mixing some new highlights and some washes, and promptly made a much larger mess then I had anticipated. Message received; the painting area has since been returned to an organized and useful state, making it much easier to avoid procrastination (in theory) and jump into painting when the urge strikes me.









With my Mechanicus think I’m going to shift from a dusty ashen aesthetic that I was trying with my Chaos Marines, and try one that is more inspired by grease, grime, carbon, and soot.

Still a long way to go at this point, as I’m still building up layers of wash to give the depth and dinge I’m aiming for. It’s mostly just really satisfying to finally get some fresh paint on something… _anything._ It’s going to be a great piece to build the army around. Naturally, there should be several maaany more painting projects turning up much more regularly in the coming weeks, months, and years.









Some dabbling in Illustrator to work on symbols and icons. And hey, meet my cat Monty, who routinely sits in the middle of my work space to get my attention. Oh, what’s that, there…?

At some point I want to have some sheets of decals produced, and now that I’ve got a better grasp of vector based graphics I can sit down and get some ideas out. I’m going to try and produce some that are overtly Chaos, some that are outright Mechanicus, and some that are a blend between the two. Beyond larger more elaborate symbols such as this one, I’m actually just as eager to have modest things like large batches of small sequential barcode-like identifiers that I can use on large groups of Mechanicus rank-and-file. Again, this is a slow-burn type of project that should pop up sometime in the future, as I start to get some models painted.

Unlike my Kytan build, which is happening from the top down (more on that wonderful kill-bot in the near future), this Knight build is getting done from the bottom up. Needless to say, I wanted to change the pose of the legs at least a little, and that was going to require some minor surgery. It really is a missed opportunity that GW didn’t make the Knight kit with more (read: any) flexibility in how the legs can be posed. While it would have made the kit a little bit more involved to build, the Knight model is already a more advanced kit, and it would have benefited sooo much from having more control over the pose of the legs.









By using a very thin push razor blade I was able to remove the hip connection very cleanly in order to minimize the loss of material.

A careful scoring of the cut line around the joint several times started the process, follow by gently (and _carefully!_) forcing the blade through with a rocking action, removing the part very cleanly; just a little light filing to make sure the surface was nice and smooth and the parts were glued back together in the new pose, and the join is completely seamless.

I wanted to lift the leg, but I didn’t want the extra work involved to change the angle of the foot. By rotating the leg at this vertical seam in the hip, the leg can be raised without changing the tilt very much. Then it’s a simple matter of bending the knee a little to accommodate the change.









Altering the bend of the knee joint is just a simple matter of a little careful cutting, some cleanup, and a few bits of styrene.

My handy-dandy Razor Saw (aka: Jewellers’ Saw) made quick work of the knee joint, but I was very careful to keep the cuts following the center of the gap, to avoid any cosmetic damage of the parts. A little bit of file work cleaned them up nicely.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content









The upper leg took a bit of extra work to fill the hole, but nothing too elaborate.

It was simple enough to add a small piece of styrene tube into the leg. This not only filled the hole providing support for the next bit of plastic, it also helped lock the alignment of the two parts. A small shim of plastic added in on top filled the hole flush with the model’s original plastic. There’s really no need to make this reconstruction any cleaner than this, since it’s all-but completely hidden in the final build. 









I’m partial to using real stone in my basing which requires a little extra effort in some projects, such as this.

In this case I needed to tweak the angle of the bottom of the stone a bit so it accommodated the foot of the Knight properly. This also improved the surface area of the stone to the base, so it’s glued on very securely now.

When a model is standing on the natural stone directly, it’s usually a safe bet to pin the it in place for strength. With a good bit, a high speed Rotary Tool (aka: Dremel) makes quick work of drilling mounting holes into any stone; it’s not all that much harder than pinning any two dissimilar materials, really. A simple modification to the Knight’s foot and it’s ready to be securely attached in the absolutely correct position; note that using two pins ensures that the part can better resist any twisting forces.









Yeah, I got a _thing_ about rocks. I can’t be the only one who can get a bit… _particular…_ when it comes to adding certain details to a model.

It’s an interesting balancing act, trying to add enough visual interest to the presentation of the model, without going too overboard; you know you want just a little bit overboard, but just a _little_ bit. I’ve collected a modest selection of stones in a range of sizes over the years so I can play with the arrangement until I’m satisfied with it. Despite having a good selection to choose from, it all stores away in a single old-school 4 quart wooden peach basket and a few of the plastic containers pictured here. Larger bases have so much more room to consider, I find I need a good selection of stone to consider the composition carefully.

Ok, with that, I will bring this not-so-little entry to a close. I’ve still got a few other projects lurking in the shadows waiting for a chance in front of the camera, but all in good time. While I am currently still juggling several things, as life is apt to force us all to do, I expect to be making updates with more substance, content, and frequency going forward. In fact, I should be following up this with a request for input in the reasonably near future. I’ve been inside my own head for a while now, and I’d like some outside perspective and suggestions.

But for now, I have the distinct urge to put something together. *Subtle wanders off to make a productive mess*


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## Nin

I like the plastic spacers under the feet. I just finished gluing all mine to bases and then saw your post and was like "oh.. I guess I'm going for really thin basing material then."


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## Subtle Discord

*Pinning Into Stone*

On the subject of pinning stone; it was asked in another corner of the inter-web, how I dealt with drilling into stone. I Figured it couldn't hurt to share the information.

You're right to want to pin the model into the stone if you can. The 'lot of glue' technique can work, but depending on the stone you're working with, it might crack and peal away; the glue can only soak into the stone so far, and beyond that it's up to the strength of the stone itself to support the model. Softer sedimentary stone like what I am using here will be much more prone to something like that happening, but it's also nice stone to work with because it's softer and can be shaped and drilled easier.

Titanium coated bits (gold coloured) will serve you better, but really any 'normal' bit will dull quite quickly. It will slow your progress, but you can simply brute force it and go slow-and-steady to drill the hole. On softer stone it will work, but the time involved will vary depending on all of the various factors, and it will be slow going either way.









On the left are larger bits I use to shape materials like plastic and resin, in the middle are what I use to drill holes in stone, and the tiny ones to the right are for other miscellaneous jobs.

In my case I was lucky to get a selection of dental drill bits several years ago from a 'surplus tools & stuff' shop in my city (which has since closed, sadly) and they make quick work of all but the most stubborn stone. Notice how some of the bits are more like rotating chisels, then a spiral drill bit. Extremely hard stone like granite takes more time, but with bits like this it's very possible, without losing your mind.

They're not exactly expensive, but they're also not something you can generally get everywhere. It depends on the person if they work with enough stone to warrant the effort to track some down. I'm glad I have them, that's for sure, but I'm the first to admit my tool selection is a little broader than the average hobbyist.


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## Old Man78

More top tier work, inspirational


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## Subtle Discord

Ok, so life forced me to divert my focus to some other obligations for a while, and it dug into my bench time, to say the least. Things are getting sorted out for now, but what’s life without the unexpected? I get it, I’m done being a student now, but do I really have to be an adult, right away?! *Sigh* But I wanted to slack off for a bit longer! *Grumbles* Oh all right…

I’m currently out-of-town visiting family, so I’m away from my workbench and design PC, and that gives a perfect opportunity to finally sit down and write an update and toss up a few images. While I haven’t had much bench time, I do have 30 Skitarii Vanguard and 10 Skitarii Rangers nearing build completion, and a few less complete builds lurking in the wings. However, now I’m kinda’ glad I got delayed, with the Mechanicus Codex arriving recently I suspect the loose army list that I was going to use as a building guide will change (maybe a lot) and nothing is so far along that it can’t be altered; so I’ll count that as a positive result from an annoying delay. Much more about my new Mechanicus project will start cropping up quite soon. I’m completely taken with my new muse, I can finally get back working on them soon, and I can’t wait!

Now, while I _was_ delayed, and I _have_ been quite, I have *not* been idle. With things settling down I’ve finally been able to sit down and get to some proper 3D design work for the studio. Without further rambling, bring on the Weapons, and Tracks, and Armour, oh my!









This most recent iteration of the Vehicle Pintol Weapons I have planned is my most successful design, in my humble opinion.

Third time’s the charm! I’ve tried my hand at Pintol Weapons a few times and the results have been mixed. I liked the concepts, but the largest problem I always had with previous designs was their height. With how I was trying arrange the components, the parts just became too tall and didn’t suit the profile of the vehicle. By rethinking how the parts can come together I think I was able to find a better solution in this design. Other weapon combinations to follow, soon.









One of two new Track designs I’ve come up with for the Rhino chassis, I’m particularly pleased with how this set turned out.

I’ll talk more about some of the process I use during designing in the future, but in short, taking the time to create an accurate 3D model of the Rhino chassis has been a wise time investment; I wasn’t sure if I was going to do it at first, but now I’m very happy I did, and plan on doing the same for most future designs. Not only can something be created that should fit absolutely correctly, it also gives the opportunity to see the new kit on the model, ‘in the round’ as it were. It’s still only virtual, but it’s much better than trying to visualize it through the entire process. As an added bonus, it will make creating assembly instructions muuuch easier, when it comes time to do such things in the somewhat near future.









Ok, so there’s a bit more than armour going on here, but you’re not going to mind if I show a few kits together, are you?

One of two new armour kits I’m working on for the Rhino chassis, this is the heavier variant that is based off of my original design with some refinements. Again, while I’ve learned that I’m quite capable at scratch-building in styrene, there’s simply no way I could achieve forms like this by hand. And without the 3D model of the Rhino chassis to work from, even doing something like this in SolidWorks would be a challenge.

Everything pictured here is getting _very_ close to being finished, but are still works in progress. My plan is to create base ‘bare’ models with no final detail, and then detail the kit in various ways to fit different themes. The selection will need to be limited to start, but will grow based on demand, feedback, and my ability to produce. I will continue to avoid anything that might cross any IP boundaries, but I’m sure I can find many ways to make the kits compliment Loyalist, Renegade, Chaos, and a few places in between. I’ll have some visual examples of what I mean in the somewhat near future as these kits reach completion and get ready to be sent off for 3D printing.

These images also don’t showcase any of the features, assembly options, or modular components that are designed into each kit. Many of my kits will have components that can be changed during assembly for a different look, either by completely replacing the parts, or by offering some flexibility in how the kit is assembled. Again, I’ll showcase these features more in the future, when the kits are closer to being ready for production, and that should be reasonably soon, barring any unexpected delays. I’ll give a much better look at the Rhino Siege Ram, the new and improved Havoc Launcher counts-as, pictured here, as well as all sorts of other things I’m up to, when I can better showcase some of these features.

Naturally, updates of personal projects will start appearing more frequently as well, and hopefully my next article should include some images from my work bench. Heck, there might even be some more images with models that have actual *gasp* paint on them! Stay tuned, more coming soon, and this time I think I mean it!


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## Old Man78

Really like the storm bolter/combi bolter design, super simple but really effective, niiiiice!!!!!!!!!


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## Subtle Discord

For those who may be interested in supporting my studio, The Dark Works, please read and if you are so inclined, offer some input, feedback, or general musings.

“What, no pictures?! … Awww!”

Yeah, I know, nothing but a wall of those bland _words_, when I’m usually so much more _visual_. I promise that my next update will return my regular modus operand.

Ok, so I _should_ be casting… buuut I got some new studio equipment (more on that in a moment) that’s sidetracked me as I get it setup, aaand I’ve got an urge to write since I’ve got an idea bouncing around in my brain that has me interested for some input. I’ve wanted to write for a few days to give some updates from my workbench (next time, I promise), but I’ve been busy casting for the studio and that’s also given me some time to ponder.

So, The Dark Works is now shifting to fulltime operation and barring any unforeseen distractions that might crop up (I’m lookin’ at you _‘life’_, back off! I gots cool stuff to make!), I’m starting to get product back on the shelves. As I work I’m also trying to figure out how to take this from a part-time endeavour to a full-time operation. Up to this point I have invested in kits, tools, equipment, and materials very carefully, returning the vast majority of the profits to the studio to continue the cycle. I’m very cautious about borrowing money, so I’m proud of myself for bootstrapping my studio this far, but now I’m reaching a tipping point; right now, I’ve got more ideas then I’ve got capitol (aka: money) to make them real, and I want to avoid borrowing if at all possible.

After investing another $1,400 into a new heavy duty compressor, deep vacuum pump, and materials, I’m starting to feel my financial wiggle room get rather tight. It was an absolutely necessary investment as my current compressor is on its last leg, and the new vacuum pump is so amazingly wonderfully efficient that it’s improving my casting quality even more; yup, good investment. However, I still have more setup I need to invest in, ongoing expenses (aw crap, I need more boxes soon…), all while I try to start getting new kits into production. The catch-22 is, trying to cover everything is going to be tricky, and slow things down when I want to ramp things up.

Even as I’m writing this, I can already sense what some of you are thinking and are going to suggest; this sounds like a KickStarter kind of problem. While that’s not wrong, for me right now, I don’t think it’s right. While I’m very confident in my ability to produce, I still have a few more things I need to work out so I have a complete grasp of what’s involved when I take this to the next level. KickStarter can grow _very_ quickly on an unwary creator. I want to avoid surprises, know my production process inside-out, and have a good body of digital designs near completion to offer the public, before I consider a formal KickStarter project. I want to do it, but I want to do it _right_ and be properly prepared.

However, I think I might have a cleaver micro crowd-funding idea that I would like some feedback on. To myself, I’ve been referring to it as ‘Adopt-a-Kit’ as a working title, as it were. Once the digital design work is finished (taking many hours in itself), the largest barrier to something becoming real is the up-front costs; a prototype needs to be made (by 3D print or more traditional methods), moulds are created, and the initial casting run is done, all with added labour for each step. Naturally, a popular kit will return on that investment, pay for the costs, and after selling several casts start to turn some profit. Some of which will eventually need to be used to maintain the kits with new moulds as needed.

In order to blunt some of these up-front costs I want to setup a system to let a small group of people pre-order a set number of kits; essentially adopting the production of the kit. Starting with 10-15 kits, I will complete each as a fully accurate 3D model and showcase it in digital format. Anyone interested in the kit can contact the studio and offer to pre-order whatever amount they are interested in. No money will be requested until enough people have pre-ordered enough kits to help offset the development costs. At that point I will contact the individuals, confirm everything, collect payment, and start on production. Rinse. Repeat.

So, am I crazy, or does this seem like an idea people could get behind? I think if I could finish a few projects this way I could prove the concept and help it gain further momentum. I’ve got all sorts of ideas I would feel much more confident showcasing and developing if I knew that 10-20 of them are already sold, before I invested many hours of labour and a good bit of capitol to make it happen.

So, if you’re still reading, thanks for taking the time. As I said, feedback would be welcome so I can get feel for how something like this might be received. I’m always open for ideas and perspective, especially now that I’m actually getting my studio started. So much to do, I hardly know where to start. Time to start figuring it out!


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## Subtle Discord

First up, shameless personal plug; I’ve restocked the shop with the kits that have serviceable moulds. If anyone is on the fence, I’ll be honest and say a few more sales before the end of the month would be welcome and very helpful. An unexpected strike at my other contract job has pinched my finances this month. I’ll be fine either way (strike was several weeks, but over now), but I wasn’t expecting to be relying on the studio for proper income quite so soon. I respect that the stock is just too limited for now. So, if avoiding shipping costs with a split order is a factor, I totally understand, and I’ll be happy to offer free shipping on your next order to those who can help over the next few weeks. Again, my situation isn’t critical, but every bit helps when things are unexpectedly tight. So please, _only_ help if it’s within your budget to do so. Thanks again to everyone, past, present, and future, who supports me on this endeavour; it’s _finally_ starting, and the best is on its way.

*Starts to shake with anticipation!*
Reverend: “Do you see the light?! Have you seen the light?!”
Jake: “YES! :cuss I see the :cuss light!”
*Gospel music rises*

~The Blues Brothers

Content Warning: _Massive_ wall-o’-text-n’-pictures to follow. 

That said, all other kits are currently being redesigned (or will be in the future) along with new kits being created, and they will start appearing over the coming weeks and months; hence the creation of this article to showcase what’s on the way in the near future. I was having a bit of ‘design ADD’ when I started, bouncing between several ideas because I wasn’t really considering how I wanted proceed. Trying to do too much can quickly mean that nothing gets done, so I’ve since come to the conclusion that I need to start back at the beginning, as it were. I’m going to start by focusing on the Rhino and then the stock Land Raider, and then consider what to do next, once those models have received some attention. That’s not to say I won’t add other independent kits along with these designs, but these will sever as my focus for now and I’ll use other ideas only when I need some distraction, before they get their own focus in the future. 










To the left; well _that’s_ a familiar profile. To the right; and it only takes all of _this_ to draw it accurately.

I see now that it’s going to be all but inevitable that I’ll need to create a 3D model of each kit that I’ll be designing for. It’s a lot of work (it took many hours just to get this preliminary 2D sketch done) but once it’s finished it’s both an invaluable design aid and a very useful tool to consider a design in context rather than floating in space on a screen or in a mind’s eye; useful for both me and the potential customer who might want to support the development of the kit.

I started with my old 2D CAD designs when I set to work updating my Rhino Trim kits for rapid prototyping. Importing the files to Solidworks is easy enough, but without getting into unnecessary detail, it became apparent that any time saved would be lost later down the line. This just reinforced that I needed to model the Rhino in Solidworks and create the kits on the model itself. This required recreating them… again, but that’s what needs to be done sometimes.

















Mk.3 is a refined version of the original Chaos design that takes advantage of some curved lines made possible with the new process.

I really had no idea how popular these Trim Kits were going to be when I started making them. I’m glad to offer what I think is a unique kit that people like, but my old production method for them was simply too labour intensive for me to continue producing them in that manner going forward. Now that I’ve had some time to work with my new vacuum pump, which can pull a stronger vacuum in a fraction of the time, I’m feeling more confident in producing these kits with less labour if I design them properly.

















Mk.4 is a intended to be something of a middle ground design; it fits in fine with a Chaos or Renegade force, but with no overt chaos elements also fine for Imperial.

So, these new designs have a much more significant sprew than I was originally considering. I’ve done them this way for two main reasons. Mainly, the vacuum casting process simply needs as many exit points as possible, in logical locations, to permit air bubbles to escape the components. But if I’m going to add in all of those vents, I’m going to do it right and take advantage of them. By adding some extra sprew sections to ensure the parts are completely encircled the delicate Trim components get some extra protection and resist warping when tightly packed for shipping. The delicate nature of the parts being prone to warping in this way was one of the few complaints these kits received, so I hope this alleviates the problem.

















Mk.5 is clean cut with no extra embellishment intended more for Imperial vehicles, but naturally they’ll still work just fine in a Renegade or Chaos force.

I still want to do a few more designs to offer more variety, but I’m going to start with these to make sure they cast as intended and there are no kinks in 3D printing parts this thin. With the sprews for support it should be no problem, but I won’t know for sure until I have parts in hand. The bulk of the sprew will also add to the final printing costs, but I’m confident that the modest extra cost is offset by the improvement in production and by proving a better kit for the customer. It’s also a little funny that laying out the parts and designing the sprew took almost as much time as designing the actual kit components; everything always takes longer then you’d expect.

























The Mk.2 Rhino Tracks are intended to look aggressive, plain and simple. Inspired by other ‘spiky’ tracks I’ve seen, I’m quite pleased with how my take on the idea turned out.

I wanted to recreate the Rhino Track kit I produced before, but again, I want to have the option to offer more variety. It took quite a bit of trial-and-error to come up with two unique link configurations that actually fit the model nicely. For some reason, the size of the wheels on the Rhino model and the angles that are required create… problems… when trying to get the links to travel cleanly the entire length of the model.

























Based off the original Mk.1 Tracks, the Mk.3 design simply takes advantage of the refinements that can be made to the design in Solidworks.

Again, I’ll start with these two designs, and consider adding a few more in the future. Now that I have a starting point, I can easily strip the tread pattern off of the links and update it to something new. It’s one of the wonderful things about digital design in general. There are many opportunities to explore different ideas without needing to start from scratch; simply save the file as a new iteration and go to town exploring any changes you want, safe in the knowledge that you can return to the original file at any time.

























The final full showcase for today is the Incursus Medium Siege-Ram Mk.1 designed for the Rhino chassis.

With this kit you can see an example of what will feature more-and-more in other kits; modular parts that can be switched-and-swapped and/or assembly options to provide the builder with some choice. In this case the smaller hydraulic bits can be rotated and Siege-Ram plate can be mounted either way. Sorta’ like choosing between giving the Ram an under bite or an over bite. I’ll also be doing a Ram plate with some Chaos details at some point, but that’s not a major change now that I have this base 3D model, so I’m focusing on a few other kits first. Such as… (oh, I’m not done yet)









Ok, this is a recycled image but it’s what I’ve got for now and it _is_ what’s getting worked on over the next little while.

I haven’t had a chance to get back to this design while I was working on getting this other stuff ready, but I want to do it to accompany the other Rhino kits so it’s on my virtual workbench again. Naturally, being designed for the cupola opening of the Rhino, it will fit on practically any GW tank, but this is a fitting time to get this kit into production. For now I just want to get the Combi-Flamer/Melta/Plasma components complete and see how it all looks resin, then I’ll consider how I can get a selection of Heavy Weapons to fit the design for a future update.









Hinted at in an earlier image, two new version of the Interitus Missile Launcher, Mk.3 and Mk.4, are in The Works as well.

These kits are _almost_ ready, but the pictured base mounting plate still needs a bit of detailing, and I want to make a smaller mounting plate that can fit the front cupola opening so the builder can choose where they prefer to mount the launcher. There are also a few other tricks designed into the kit in line with the modular swappable parts and assembly options concept that I mentioned earlier. I’ll be sure to showcase those features when it’s done. While not exactly ground-breaking, I’m quite pleased with what I came up with to solve a production problem, and it actually provides more options for the kit. Win-win!

Both the Missile Launcher and the Combi-Weapon kits will be done with Chaos/Renegade versions and Imperial versions similar to the Trim Kits at the beginning of this update. Where it makes sense and where there is demand, I plan to make that a running concept with most kits. I may not able to do every version right away due to costs, but if there’s demand I’ll be happy to cater to it. Which is why I think the ‘Adopt A Kit’ idea should work well. I can finish kits and develop the ones I can afford, and those that people like that I can’t get to right away, they can be supported and helped into production. At least, that’s how I hope it’ll work. 









Last but not least, here’s another image of the new Spaced and/or Ablative armour with additional components for the Predator version of the chassis.

This is a perfect example of a kit that would be very hard to create without the 3D Rhino model to work from. For now everything is just floating around the Rhino, so I need to get under it and figure out how it’s all going to actually attach to the model. I’m going to produce this design first as a bit of a test to see how good the final fit of the kit will be. I’ve tried hard to make sure the 3D model of the Rhino is as accurate as possible, but I won’t really know until I have parts that I can work with. I’ll do several tests with templates cut from paper, in an effort to find any mistakes before I send the parts off to be printed, but that won’t be a guarantee since some places are difficult or impossible to test using that method. The turret being one good example. So, the plan is to start with this kit since it can work well with both a Rhino and the Predator. It will used a little less material to start in case there is a significant problem that requires a reprint. And, since it’s a Spaced Armour solution it will be more forgiving on how it fits the model. Hopefully if there are any minor fit issues, I can fix the casting prototype by hand, and make the required adjustments to ‘tune’ the 3D model for future designs.

Ok, with that I’ll bring this sizable update to a close. I was going to ramble a bit about a few other things, but the hour grows late and this has taken a little longer to finish than I was expecting. Those musings will have to wait for another time. As always, comments, questions, suggestions, input, or any other hobby/shop talk are always welcome. Thanks for taking the time to read and having a look.


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## Subtle Discord

Late night (early morning?) teaser! I should be getting to bed, but I just got done 3D modeling the newPintolWeapons Kit and it seemed worthy of a screenshot. I'm very pleased with how these turned out.









Designation to be determined; Combi-Melta to the left and Combi-Bolters to the right. Renegade/Chaos version pictured, a 'clean' Imperial version will also be available.

Further updates to follow soon, including a showcase on how these and other kits will assemble. Both of these weapons are built from exactly the same parts. The choiceto have the weapons to the left or to the right is made during assembly, and everythingis magnet ready (will be included in the kit) so the weapons rotate and tilt, as well as permitting the owner to switch-and-swap the weapons anytime.


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## Subtle Discord

Second verse! Same as the first! How about another late night (early morning) teaser. Who needs sleep. All my late nights in college have given a pseudo-superpower, I can resist the urge the sleep when properly motivated, and indeed I find working late at night my most productive hours. As time goes by, I'm seeing that the choice of studio name seems appropriate on a few levels. "We like the dark. Dark for dark business." as Tolkien once wrote, if I recall correctly, just before a particular Hobbit went off, there and back again.

Interitus (Aka: Havoc) Missile Launcher 2.0 is almost finished. Here's a look at the at the leaner 10 missile rack in a clean line Imperial style. As shown earlier, there will also be a slightly larger 12 missile rack in the same style, and of course a version with Chaos/Renegade elements.









Top Left: Proximity Incendiary. Top Right: Impact High Explosive. Bottom Left: Proximity Fragmentation. Bottom Right: Impact Armour Piercing.

Pick your poison. I'm particularly happy with the swappable missile component that I have devised which will let the builder choose their preferred loadout for the missile rack, all while sharing the base components. Again, I'll showcase how it actually assembles in the near future as the entire batch of kits gets closer to absolutely complete. The Interitus Missile Racks are very close and then I'm going to focus on the spaced armour to finish the first batch of ideas that will be presented together and put up for production adoption in my shop. Thanks as always for following along.


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## Subtle Discord

Speaking of the 10 missile rack compared to the 12 missile rack, here's an image of the latter to give an idea how the larger/taller version will compare.









Very similar (as intended) to the other version of this design, you can also see the smaller mounting plate I've created to give more flexibility to where it can be added.









Aaand because I I got the itch to show it off a bit more completely, here's a quick exploded view to help show how the kit will assemble.

I'll ramble more about all sorts of features, options, and design philosophy for all my work when I can show more mages to better illustrate what I'll want to explain, but this image can give a quick-and-dirty (*Gasp!* I can see the under bits-and-pieces! Shameful!) idea of how the kit comes together.


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## Subtle Discord

*Subtle Discord suddenly appears wearing a cheesy ill-fitting tweed suit with a mustard stain on the lapel*

Wellll you’re in luck, my good friend. *pats you on the shoulder, grabbing it in a slightly intrusive way* Come on over here, I’ve got a few beauties with your name written all over them. Low kilometers, power steering, air conditioned, tracks that are virtually new, and ready to paint (not included) in any colour you can imagine. *offers a sly crooked smile as he leads you towards a row of vehicles*

















There’s very simple reason why I’m choosing to develop this kit first, and this illustrates it perfectly.

The current Extra/Reinforced Armour Kit available at my shop that I designed to fit Rhino chassis was really done from the start with the Predator tank in mind. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but after being asked if I had (or planned to) Armour Kits that fit just the Rhino, I noticed a big oversight on my part. Take the Predator bits away, and in my opinion, the armour plates that remain don’t suit the Rhino as well as I’d like. So, I’m creating this armour kit specifically to work well with the Rhino _and_ the Predator.

In fact, looking at it now on the digital Rhino model from the back it seems a bit sparse for my liking, I think it needs just a bit more to make it complete, so I’m going to create a set of top hatch doors to fit in with the Rhino iteration of this kit; they’ll be super easy to do and I think they’ll add the last bit that will complete the look for the Rhino.

















So once I was (mostly) happy with the design on just the Rhino, then I worked on making suit the Predator.

With the turret and sponsons in place I’m very pleased with the results. I wanted to add enough armour to make it look like it can actually provide additional protection, while still portraying what is supposed to be ‘light’ armour. To me, it feels like the vehicle has been upgraded to resist ground fire from the front and sides, and try to protect soft points, while still leaving it vulnerable to attacks from above and behind in a plausible way. An effort to balance increased protection with the weight that would be added to the chassis.









Heck, since I’ve started to pontificate, let us have a closer look at the counts-as Combi-weapons I’ve recently finished.

As mentioned, I’ve done my take on all four weapon systems. It’s was a bit of a challenge fitting some details into such a small area that can do a good job of distinguishing each of the unique weapons; the Bolter gets ammo feeds, the Flamer has a pressure cylinder and pipes, the Melta has heat syncs and a corrugated hose, and the Plasma has a coil and fuel cell. You can hardly see them, but I don’t thinkthat matters.

















Designing the kit in a thoughtful way offers the builder several different assembly options as well as permitting the weapon to tilt and rotate.

Naturally, any magnets that are required during assembly will be included in the kit. While it won’t have a massive amount of tilt when assembled, I think it’s still more than enough to emulate that the weapon can track ground targets as the vehicle advances over rough terrain. As mentioned earlier, I will be looking how I can fit a selection of heavy weapons into this assembly, but I’ll wait to start the design until I’ve made these a reality and see how they turn out. It’s a small kit so it will be cost effective to use as a test.

Currently, I’m finishing up the Armour Kit with some Chaos/Renegade detailing and as I mentioned, I also want to create some hatch doors for the Rhino version as a last minute addition to the kit. *Subtle ponders if he should also do side doors or if that would take it too far* From there I’ll need to get the sprews and vents needed for production attached to the parts, and that in itself can take longer than you’d expect; but even with that to do, these kits are in the absolute final stretch and ready to go very soon. I can’t wait to start seeing these transform from digital concepts to actual resin.

Buuut, with that said, since I’ve been working so hard on these designs I’ve decided to reward myself with a weekend off to get away from the digital workbench and get some _actual painting time in!_ That’s right, actual paint! A while back I came to the conclusion that I _must_ give myself weekends off to actually do my hobby as, you know, _a hobby._ I’ve chosen to postpone that a bit while I get the studio up-and-running, but it will be something I honour going forward, so expect to see more-and-more personal projects and actual paint on models as time goes by and I get my studio routine sorted out.

Ok, thanks again for joining me on this small step in my journey as I endeavour to make ideas real and create some of the _best_ 3rd party kits on the market. As always, comments, questions, input, and general musings are always welcome, but if you prefer to lurk that’s great too. 

*Subtle wanders off to find something to paint*


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## Subtle Discord

It’s… The _Legion Rising_ Show!

*Cue The Benny Hill Show theme song – 



*

Now, including spectacular _colour!_ That’s right, _actual *paint!*_









I’ve magnetized my models for years to facilitate my _eventual_ need to transport them, but it’s quite useful for painting too. 

I mount a small neodymium magnet in the center of the base (or several, in the case of larger models) and then I attach a layer of magnetic sheet cleanly finish the process. The rare earth magnet provides the main sticking power while the magnetic sheet adds to the effect by making the entire base hold firm. Needless to say, I have no fear of models knocking free when they’re on a metal tray. Added bonus, it’s super simple to add a bit of metal to the end of a piece of dowel so I can paint without touching the model. Not as useful when you’re doing sub-assemblies, like in this case, but better than a poke in the eye.

As mentioned, I invested in an airbrush a while back, settling on a Badger Sotar 20/20 based on reviews, videos of performance, and helpful input; a key feature was its ability to switch between a very fine 0.20mm needle, a medium 0.45mm needle, and a large 0.70mm needle, to suit the range of jobs I expect to use it on. I helped to rationalize the purchase by using it first to paint the thesis model for my bachelor’s degree, so let’s just say it forced me to overcome any fears of a learning curve very quickly as I used it for the first time on an extremely critical project. As a funny addition to the experience, I painted my model a bright yellow to contrast with black and dark grey details, and used the entire bottle of airbrush yellow paint I purchased for the task. It was a rather large model. Caught in a pinch, with parts that still needed paint and no time to get a new bottle, I turned to my hobby supplies and pulled out a very old bottle of Sunburst Yellow; to my surprise it was a very close match and despite it being very thick and needing to be rejuvenated, it saved my bacon.

On hobby models, once you get past the intimidating initial learning curve of using an airbrush, it really is a significant game changer, completely altering how one might consider going about painting a model. Even simply applying primer is elevated, with it able to apply it in wonderfully smooth layers while offering complete control over coverage. While rattle spray cans are not exactly hard to use there are occasions when they can be temperamental, creating a less than desirable surface finish, and they simply can’t get into the nooks-and-crannies of a model like an airbrush without applying way too much primer to everywhere else. Once you get the hang of it with the airbrush the progress is brilliantly quick.









To start I’m doing a 10x unit of Vanguard with three Plasma Calivers and a 10x unit of Rangers with two Transuranic Arquebus'.

All hail the ever useful Poster Tack! Great for working on perfecting a pose, and helpful in this case for keeping the bits-n-pieces on their assigned painting stick. They do fall off from time-to-time but it’s easy to replace them and it still greatly reduces how much I would normally handle them. If you’re painting Skitarii I strongly suggest keeping them separate at the waist to save your sanity; I’m assuming they are intended to be painted this way as I simply can’t see how you could get under the long coats otherwise. I had started assembling them with both arms in place, but I soon changed my mind as I looked at the model. While it will take a bit more care to do the final assembly, I find it takes much more effort to paint all the nooks-and-crannies of these models when both arms are in place. By attaching the left arm (using the right arm to ensure it’s in the correct position) it will be an easy task to attach the right arm in perfect alignment in the future. Some carefully placed bits of Poster Tack is also perfect for masking the areas that will need plastic-on-plastic contact.









In keeping with my current preference for a cold-centric paint scheme Blue, Silver, and Black will be my primary colours, with Green used as the main accent colour.

It can’t be understated just how much faster it was to paint these coats/cloaks with an airbrush and to a much higher quality and uniformity than I could ever hope for by hand. I _might_ be able to get the blend reasonably close by hand since it is a nice smooth flat surface, but without a doubt, it would take me muuuch longer. I started rather cautiously at first, but quickly found my groove and sped up considerably once I got into it. To get them to this point was surprisingly straightforward.



Two layers of Vallejo Magic Blue over a Black prime.
Two layers of Blue Wash; the first over the entire area with some quick wet blending to keep most of the shading up near the torso, and a second selective application to reinforce the shade effect at the top of the model. I didn't worry too much about getting a perfect blend or if any shading dripped/drooped too low, because the final Blue application cleans it up nicely.
After that, I used an airbrush to blend the Magic Blue back up from the bottom.
From here I will be using Vallejo Magic Blue combined with Vallejo Electric Blue to work up the highlights.
Cleaned up all the non-cloak bits with Black.
A layer of Vallejo Air Silver was hand painted on; by far one of the best acrylic Silver paints I’ve used with a normal brush or through an airbrush.
A Single Black wash over the Silver and a cleanup with Black paint (still in progress).
 
In order to avoid using rust and adding the warm element it would bring to the theme, I’ve decided to borrow a bit of inspiration from the fiction of Lucius Forge World and bend it some to fit my purpose. Atrum Laboris is skilled at producing quality metal alloys so wargear of their manufacture is resistant to typical corrosion or oxidation, and prone only to superficial tarnishing, developing a darkening patina over time; I may take the idea further, making Alphas and other veteran models darker and more tarnished to reflect the fiction. So, with that base covered, when it comes time to weather some of this strong colour down I’ll focus on grease, dust, soot, and carbon to add more grit and grime to the models, instead of rust and oxidization.

Ok, so not the largest update, but progress... measurable, quantifiable, documentable, painting _progress!!_ I'm already starting to dread all the little fiddly bits, but really, only a little bit. It's sooo cathartic to finally be able to get back painting again I'm eager to push forward. Now that I have control of my schedule I can also start doing it more regularly. Being forced away from it for so long, even if for the best of intentions and outcomes, has left me quite hungry and the prospect of doing 40-60 of these actually feels like a treat! Let's hope the enthusiasm lasts. I think it will. I need to get to the Onagers, after all. _Mmm..._ walking tanks with... Neutron Lazor Beams!


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## Subtle Discord

Ok, design philosophy time! Where we delve a little into the dark nooks-and-crannies of Subtle’s design process to learn just how much he overthinks things, but in a good way! 

It’s funny, one of the most profound lessons I learned while attending college is actually quite straightforward and one of the most frustrating truths I’ve been forced to accept. Put simply, as you design something almost every task it requires during the development will take longer to complete than you’ll expect it to. The general guideline my professor gave was roughly 3-to-1 and they seem to be close to the mark; if you expect a task will take you about 1 hour to complete, don’t be surprised when it takes 3 or more hours to finally finish. For some reason, despite coming to experience this firsthand, over-and-over, I struggle to take this into account and adjust my expectations to something realistic.

In this case, I’m on the final steps to completing the first batch of 3D models and that requires filleting (read: rounding) the hard/sharp edges of a model ever-so-slightly. This subtle step takes the designed object from something of a rough state to a refined finished state and it’s quite noticeable in image renderings of a design and ultimately the final production of an object. It’s not particularly hard to do (although it can be tricky in some locations of a model if the geometry is complex) but it is completely mind-numbing and takes a painfully long time to finish. Needless to say, what I thought would be done in days is taking longer than I expected. And I don’t even want to get started on adding sprews, gates, and vents, which you would think isn’t that tedious, but I digress.

TLDR: I’m putting the final touches and details on the first batch of 3D models. They look great but daaamn it’s taking longer than I expected. Note to self: Attention to detail simply takes time; adjust schedule expectations accordingly.

The redesign of the Interitus Missile Launcher (counts-as Havoc Launcher) is an excellent 3D prototype build to illustrate the design choices I make in order to create the best possible kit I can devise. Three main ideas guide my choices. 1) Find ways to improve how the model will be produced; is there anything I can do to make it easier to cast, improve the lifespan of the mould, and/or reduce the chances of casting flaws? 2) Find ways to make it assemble with the least amount of frustration; what can I do to ensure everything assembles with the least amount of cleanup and effort? 3) Find straightforward ways to add assembly options to a kit for more variety; what opportunities present themselves that might let me add more assembly options?









By offsetting the mounting point on a round plate simply rotating the plate changes the launcher’s position on the model.

A very simple design choice lets the builder put the missile launcher where they want; to the left, right, front, or back. Not anything elaborate by any stretch, but a good idea doesn’t need to be complex.









I initially split the mounting ‘yoke’ for the launcher into two parts to make it easier to cast each of the parts.

Soon after I split the part I noticed how easy it would be to add a few extra holes to match the small locking key detail. This, in turn, lets the builder assemble the launcher centered, or to the left, or to the right. Again, not exactly elaborate, but it’s also not exactly difficult to add the option, so why not?









I try to design kits to complement each other in both design style and how they function.

Modularity, it’s a good thing. Not only do I want my kits to interact well with each other; using the provided assembly options should help to avoid clearance issues. I also want kits to be able to switch and swap logical parts with each other. In general, if parts from one kit look like they could fit with another kit, odds are good that they will. Mmmm… options.









Sometimes you design to solve a problem, sometimes you design to add a feature, and sometimes one leads to the other.

When you’re creating a casting prototype it’s in your best interest to avoid details that will create a ‘knife edge’ in the mould rubber. Rubber that forms very thin shapes like this will tend to deform very quickly and because they are delicate they are also prone to tearing well before the rest of the mould wears out. Due to the shape, the ring around a missile sitting in a tube is a good example of this and it was one of the main problems I had with my first attempted making the Interitus Missile Launcher; this thin bit of rubber would first deform, and then eventually tear free, ruining the gap that is meant to simulate a missile sitting in a launch tube. At first, I considered widening the gap in an effort to make the rubber thicker and more resistant to tearing, but I’m much happier with this final solution for several reasons.









By completely splitting the part into two components I solve the initial problem and in turn, I created an opportunity to add some more assembly options.

I was pleased with solving the problem in this reasonably simple way. The ‘knife-edge’ issue is completely resolved and since they’re both flat-backed parts it won’t be any harder to cast these two components as it would be to cast it as a single piece.

If they choose, the builder will also have the option of painting the parts separately which should help the assembly process. It also makes it very easy for the builder to remove some of the missiles if they want to have the missile rack appear to have fired a few volleys of ordinance. It’s a pet peeve of mine when a missile rack on a model has a few missiles missing by default; if it’s ever duplicated in the collection they all look the same and I personally hate that kind of repetition in a collection. Let the builder make that choice, dammit!









As shown earlier in the thread, this also makes it very easy to create several unique varieties of missile for the builder to choose from.

Not every kit will get this many small options on how it can assemble, but this is an excellent example of how I try to discover opportunities to improve every model I design. It can take longer to complete a design as I work through the process, but I think it’s the kind of attention to detail that people will really appreciate as my kits start arriving in their hobby spaces. I build these models and miniatures too, so I know how nice it is when something assembles without too much fuss, and a little bit of choice when I build is never a bad thing. I aim to combine this design philosophy with top quality execution to produce some of the best kits on the market. It’s going to take a little while for me to find my stride, but it’s finally starting and I can’t wait to see where this all leads.

More updates coming soon’ish. Hopefully, with some actual first 3D prints in hand. But for now, it’s Saturday, time to go and paint something!


----------



## Subtle Discord

From the forest of paint bottles, they emerge. Super organized painter, I is not. Maybe I should consider changing that habit...

























So close to being finished the base paint job, it's painful to have to stop working on this squad, but my hobby ration for the week has been consumed.

It's odd that the camera seems to make the highlights on the weapons seem a bit brighter then they are in person. They really do 'pop' much more in the images. Just one of those side-effects of pixellating the image, I suppose.

I'm reconsidering doing the eyes bit brighter and with a bit of glow. I used a very tiny bit of transparent blue to give the lights on the chest a bit of OSL and I think it worked out well considering how painless it was. A little fiddly, but not all that hard so I guess I'll try it on the eyes and see. I'm the first to admit it's a very straightforward colour scheme that'snot taking too many risks, but I think it's working well to give them a calculating clinical look.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Brought up in another corner of the interweb I figured it wouldn't hurt to share this elsewhere. When I say I'm considering green, this is what I mean...










I took a bit of time and did some backpacks in the planned green and it forced me to do at least one test model to see what it looks like.

While I'm happy with how I executed the blue lights, I still think it's a bit too much blue on blue. I think the green just breaks up the monotony of so... much... blue... Even the green eyes I'm thinking of brightening a bit to add a bit more punch.

With regards to the execution, I should give credit where credit is due. I've mentioned these Transparent paints from Vajello a few times the last while but until now I hadn't used them.









I picked these up when I got my airbrush hoping that they will compliment it and I'm happy to finally discover that they do.

I've only just started playing around with them so I can't provide really in-depth feedback on how to best use them but so far they're working as I was hoping they would. Subtle gloweffects are most effective when the colour that is being projected on a surface is staining the surface and letting the base surface/colour show through. Thinning paints to get this effect can be tricky since many colours have additives that are meant to help the paint cover and be opaque; from what I can tell these paints are simply the colour pigments in acrylic binding medium, minus the opaquing additives. Many painters would use inks to achieve this kind of effect but inks are water-like in consistency, so I prefer this product becauseit has a little more body and it acts more like paint when you attempt to blend the edges.

In this case, I brushed the colours on the chest pieces and did a bit of blending to get the desired effect and I used my airbrush to add it to the backpacks so it could do the blending work for me. Both times it was used straight from the bottle and built up to get the desired effect. They look very bright and vivid in the bottle and when you initially put them on a surface, especially if it's heavy, but they mute down as theydry and become more transparent. The pigment is very concentratedso a very tiny bit can go quite far. So, a light touch and using a small amount is best while you get used to how they'll affect a surface they're being used on.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Further update with ramblings and more images to follow shortly.


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## Subtle Discord

It would be an understatement to say that I’m _very_ happy to finally be painting again. What is it about this damn hobby that makes it so compelling? I completely respect that it’s not for everyone, but for those of us who get caught up in it… mmmm… so good.

So, the first squad of Skitarii Rangers is _almost_ finished. I still have a few small details and a tiny bit of tidying up to do here-and-there but that's basically a formality at this point. They're all still held together with poster tack so the odd backpack or arm might be a little off. For some reason, I’m hesitant to actually commit them with glue even though I think I’m safe at this point, for fear of overlooking something that would be easier to do while they’re still in separate parts.

















To sort out my colour pallet and painting technique I focused on the Ranger squad to use them as a proof of concept.

*Values, 1, 2, 3.* One of the most straightforward yet powerful concepts that I learned in college and it applies quite well to miniature painting. Used during the rendering process when you're colouring and/or shading an image to best communicate the form and detail, it's the simple guideline that you only need three distinct Values, light (1), medium (2), and dark (3), to create all of the desired contrast. Generally, beyond that point, any additional steps/values will start to have diminishing returns for the extra effort required to add them.

In many ways it seems really obvious and common sense but I found it surprising how often I would be working on something and wondering why it was lacking some visual punch, and then I would notice that there wasn’t enough 1, 2, 3, value definition. Forcing this concept from my unconscious mind into my conscious mind was definitely something that took some practice but it pays off once it becomes more instinctive.

The idea translates well to painting where you can create a straightforward guideline to follow; determine the light, medium, and dark, value of each colour you plan to use and make sure each step is distinct. Naturally, that’s not to say there won’t be places where you may want to be more elaborate, but with or without blending it’s surprising just how effective this simple approach is. Conversely, if a paint job seems to fall a bit flat, look at it critically and ask yourself if there’s good 1, 2, 3, value definition happening.









Group shot! It took a little longer to get this squad done, but now that I have a good idea what each step involves future squads will/should/might happen faster.

As I said, I still need to tweak a few details and do some minor cleanup. OSL really does force you to pay attention if you want it to be reasonably convincing so now that they’re assembled there are a few spots that need some attention. I also want to boost the shoulder mounted lamps which are just not bright enough for my liking. The Vanguard weapons are also giving me pause as I continue to contemplate just how I want to treat the OSL glow with them. I’ve given them the first hit with the airbrush but I don’t know I’ve it’s too strong for the final look. Oh well, that’s a final puzzle to hopefully work out next painting session.

After years of painting predominantly black, the bold colours are also forcing me to accept that it might be time to upgrade my seven-year-old camera. The images aren’t bad by any stretch, but even with a bit of Photoshop to adjust and darken them, the colours are noticeably more vibrant in the pictures than in person; in particular, the blue is bold but it’s just not _that_ bright in reality. It’s not really a priority by any means but something with better colour accuracy would be nice at some point in the future.









The plan is to get 50-to-60 Skitarii done to roughly this point before I really contemplate how I’ll be completing the scheme.

That will give me time to finish the decal designs I’ve started and get them printed, ready for a marathon session of decaling them in one big batch. Part of me wants to try to add some freehand keyed trimming on the coats but the rest of me is a coward who doesn’t want to screw it up. Thinking about it, I have an idea to get long strips of binary code printed in the smallest font possible (read: micro text) so it would appear as just a line unless you looked very closely. I’m just not sure if decals can be printed small enough to pull off the effect or how difficult it would be to apply the strips along the edges of some of the coats and hoods. I like the idea, I’m just not sure how realistic it is.

Thanks again for reading and following along. As always, any questions, comments, or general musings are always welcome. Mmmm... _soooo_ satisfying to get back to painting.


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## Subtle Discord

"Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more; or close up the wall with our Skitarii dead."









"+++ 75-tack-0 + Reporting... primary target... confirmed. Holding position... Awaiting tactical protocol downlink. +++"









*Taps the microphone* Testing, testing, 1, 2, 3... Is this thing on? Testing... Oh, yep, it's on.

So I got ahead of myself again, and I shouldhavetested the Vanguard Carbines before getting too eager with the airbrush. As much as the treatment on the right is very striking it's just a bit too strong for the look I'm aimingfor. I've done the Plasma with this treatment and I think it looks ace, but I want the Carbines more subdued like the treatment on the left. I wish there was an easy way to get something in between the two, but I can't figure out how to do it; if the light source is coming from within the weapon (how I prefer it) then the coils are going to obstruct just how much light can spill out, and where it can strike. I've neverbeen a fan of how the coils are attached to the Radium Carbine and this just drives it home.

So, I've had to go back and cover the heavy green glow I did with the airbrush. Finished now, but I hate redoing work. I know it's going to happen now-and-then but it always annoys me. I'm almost done the black highlights and then it'll be the blue followed by the always intimidating OSL. +++ Motivation Subroutines: Initialized +++


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## Kreuger

I see what you mean. The comparison to the plasma guns makes sense and asks the question "are the coils the light source or is the light source under the coils." 

The left guy definitely has the light source under the coils while the right the coils are the light source. 

I think the understatement is good. It's too easy to get carried away in miniature painting with an effect or technique and allow it to take over the model. 

It's just not a job for an airbrush.


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## Subtle Discord

+++
++++++
++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++
++++
Downloading... Complete
++
Displaying Data File ∙ Onscreen
+++++
+










+++
++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++
+++
+


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## Subtle Discord

++++++
+++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++++
+
Downloading… Complete
+++++
Displaying Data File ∙ Onscreen
++++++
+++








+++ Command Protocols ∙ Accepted +++ Request ∙ Diagnostic Activation +++_+++ Command Input ∙ Accepted +++

++
Initializing Subsystems…
+++++++
++++
Generator Subsystems ∙ Online
Containment Field ∙ Nominal
++++++++++
+++++
Initialize Plasma Reaction? ∙ Y/N


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Initialize Plasma Reaction? ∙ Y/N +++ Command Input∙ Y +++_+++ Status∙ Ignighting Plasma Reaction +++_+++ Initialize Void Field?Y/N +++


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## Old Man78

Great stuff the use of the plasma ball is just simple genius!


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Initialize Void Field? ∙ Y/N +++ Command Input ∙ Y +++_+++ Void Field ∙ Active +++ Plasma Raction ∙ Stable +++ Containment Field ∙ Nominal +++

+++ Command downlink received.+++ Downtime overdue. +++ Priority - Seek maintenance bay interface. +++Rejuvenationsubroutines activated. +++ Further data uplink to follow maintainance rites. +++


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## Subtle Discord

For this update, enjoy a three-course meal of content. First up, some horderves… 

I have no idea why Vimeo is willing to present it in the vertical format but refuses to embed the video. If you’re interested, check the link below to see a full-size version.

https://vimeo.com/255854999

Link to a much larger video - Arcis Pattern Shield Generator

This is by far the trickiest model I’ve ever had to photograph. Usually with miniatures you want to use lots of light and there’s no problem slowing the shutter speed so you can get a good depth of field (focus range) in the images. But in this case, too much light washes out the plasma effect and a slow shutter speed can’t catch the constantly moving plasma streams. The settings and conditions that are best for capturing the plasma effect are pretty much the exact opposite to what you’d normally want to use to best showcase miniatures in photos. *Sigh*

But I’m getting ahead of myself. First, on to the main course. A morsel for the mind I’m going to call the taming of the sponge. I’ve seen a few people mention from time-to-time that they can’t get results they like with the sponge technique to add a chipping weathered effect to a model. While not as authentic as doing multi-layered chipping techniques, I’ve found the sponge method is a good compromise to get excellent results that look very authentic and random with less effort than other processes. In fact, it’s so fast once you get the hang of it that you can quickly get carried away so restraint and bit of patients is a good thing when using this technique. However, I have found a few tips, tricks, and understanding helps the process considerably.









First up, do yourself a favor and pick up a set of clamping needle nose tweezers and behold the improvement in control over this technique.

I have long slender fingers and even I have trouble controlling a tiny chunk of ragged sponge dipped in paint as I try to dab it reasonably precisely on a tiny detail of a miniature. A simple set of this kind of tweezer lets you create a temporary paint brush with much more control and visibility as you work.









The tweezers will let you easily twist and turn the sponge as you work and you can ‘choke’ the sponge until it’s just a tiny tuft providing much more control working on small details.

Be sure to tear chunks of sponge off that will produce points, ridges, and edges that can provide a bit more precision to the technique. The sponge will always produce somewhat random blotches of ragged spots and that’s what you want, but this lets you have more control over where they go and how large they’ll be.









Try to find a selection of sponge of a few different densities to choose from to add further to the control you can have over the results.

The sponge pictured to the top is denser with more uniform bubbles. Simulated chips and scratches created with this sponge will be smaller and a bit more uniform. This is the type of sponge you want to use if you prefer a lighter speckling of chip marks on the edge of a model; dabbing most of the paint off of the sponge and applying a bit more pressure will tend to get that light chipping effect. Denser sponge is also stiffer so it provides a bit more control if you tear the sponge into the right shapes for your task and let the tweezers help.

The bottom chunk of sponge pictured is less dense and has much less uniform bubbles. This sponge will produce much larger simulated chips and flakes owing to the larger voids in the material. Combined with the softer nature of sponge like this a little more care is required. If you load too much paint and/or apply too much pressure with this sponge the spots can be very large. It’s always a good idea to keep a few pieces of primed sprew nearby so you can dab the sponge along an edge to test the results before you commit to a model. If the shapes that are being made don’t work for any reason just swap out the sponge in the tweezers and try again. A little practice will have you discover how you prefer the shape of the sponge to be.









With black I prefer to use silver with a black wash mottled over top for weathering but if I was going to do this with practically any other colour I’d likely use a dark grey and skip the wash.

I tend to start by placing a few larger simulated chips and flakes in key locations (read: corners and edges), fill it out with some smaller speckles, and then use a brush to unify and tweak the effect a little bit. Even with the added control, the tweezers provide the effect will still be somewhat random so a tiny bit of brushwork helps refine it a bit and tie it together.

The final tip I can provide for this technique is to thin the paint and mix in a little Future Floor Wax to lower the surface tension. This is the key trick to get the paint to apply nice and thin while still ‘clumping’ into the nice crackled and flaked shapes that make this process look reasonably authentic. Without the Future added in the paint wants to spread too much and is much harder to control and get a pleasing result.

Use the right tweezers. Use the right sponge. Use them the right way. Use a bit of Future Floor Wax in thinned paints. Rejoice with the improved control you’ll find attempting this kind of technique.

And now on to something for the sweet tooth…









I’ve never actually measured an official GW Void Shield model, but from my research, I think the footprint and height of the Arcis Generator are very similar.








I really wanted a ladder up to the battlements so that imposed some limits to how large it could be; large enough to put a small squad of snipers or heavy weapons but not much else.








Having a hexagram footprint it doesn’t really have a back so here’s the other side so you can see how the power switch and cord are treated.








“I said across her nose, not _up_ her nose!” ~ Spaceballs ~ Extreme close-up! Because… why not? Details and stuff. Ooooo… plasma!

I do wish the primer had gone on a little smoother in a few spots but that’s a minor complaint about a model that I’m quite pleased on several levels. Mmmm… progress. Me likey progress! It’s an interesting ‘unit’ to finish first for my Mechanicus army but it’s kinda’ fitting, really, if a bit unconventional. It’s going to make a great starting centerpiece for the rest of the army to build around. Speaking of which, an update for (mostly) finishing first Vanguard squad should be ready reasonably soon, but until then…









Perhaps I can tempt you with an after dinner mint? Come now, of course you would, it’s wafer thin.

Vanguard squads two and three (each toting 3x Arc Rifles) are stepping up on deck. Pictured here in mostly grey they’re already primed and ready to start painting once the first squad is finished. Now that I have a good lock on pretty much every process and technique I’ll be using on these models I hope to be able to focus on them and power through them reasonably quickly. I’ve got an itch to start on something bigger and/or more elaborate and these two squads are my main barrier.


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## Subtle Discord

++++++++
++
Comm-Link ‧ Active
++++
+++++++
Downlink… Complete
+++++
Displaying Data File ‧ Onscreen
+++









+++ Preliminary Production Quota ‧ Complete +++ Ongoing Production Quota ‧ Accepted +++ Recruit Selections 3440-3460 Proceeding to Implantation +++








+++ Data Transmission ‧ incomplete +++ Further Data Transmission ‧ Compiling +++ Update Incoming ‧ Standby… +++

++++++++
+++
Append Information Exchange ‧ Additional Input +++ Large open spaces in the preliminary image offends the glory of the Omnissiah
++++
Production Quota Priority ‧ Upgraded +++ Current projects to be expedited; large scale construct assembly to commence
++++++
Comm-Link ‧ Active
+++++++++
++
Update Incoming ‧ Standby…
+++++
++++++++
+++


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++
+++++
Comm-Link ‧ Active
+++++++
Data Downlink… Complete
+++++
Displaying Data File ‧ Onscreen
+++
+++++++++

Well, this is a bit of an eclectic (Oooo, a $2 word) selection of units to (almost*) finish as a modest start to the collection. I didn’t really _plan_ on getting slightly distracted finishing the Void Shield Generator, but that’s what happened. Being already half finished for many months and beginning to collect dust, it was simply too much to ignore it. Naturally, wanting to see it with the plasma globe in place didn’t hurt my shift in motivation.

*Almost finished because they _are_ done… sorta’. The primary paint job is finished. I’ve hit the edges and high points with gloss varnish and given everything the first coat of matt varnish, that’s a little closer to a satin which is my actual preference for general applications. Now they’re going to wait for decals before a bit of dirtying up and the final coats of varnish. For now, I’m procrastinating on the decals because I want to complete more units for the army and get a better idea where I want to put icons, thus having a better idea just what size the decals will need to be; so there’s that, aaand I’m kinda’ not looking forward to the work involved in finishing the icons and compiling the final decal sheets, so that can wait until I’m feeling more inspired to do such things and I have more models that are at the point of actually needing them.









Ok, ok, this isn’t exactly a unit that hasn’t been shown before but I figured a few more images for the sake of completeness wouldn’t go amiss.

Given that the Ad Mech line is new and I’m so pleased with the models I don’t plan on doing any elaborate conversions like I might be tempted to do when working with Chaos. However, I dislike excessive repetition caused by repeating models in an army, so I prefer when I can use a posable multipart kit/s to assemble the Troops of a collection; even subtle changes in pose and composition can dramatically improve the level of variety that can be found in an army that may otherwise be very similarly equipped. The Skitraii kit walks an interesting line in this regard. They don’t offer as much in the way of pose-ability as I would normally prefer, but the kit does have ten distinctly posed miniatures and there is a good range of selection in the components. Switch a few arms, swap a few backpacks and turn the odd head and there’s enough variety to obscure any blatant repetition in the rank-and-file, but not so much with the Alphas and the Omnispex/Data-tether operators. So I’ve decided to focus a bit of converting and kit-bashing on those models in each of the squads to provide some variety to the models that are the center of each unit.

To that end, this first unit of rangers is taking the easy route and staying completely stock with no changes, since the Alpha simply requires nothing more than a Galvanic Rifle which are plentiful and that leaves the shouldered rifle component for the Omnispex operator. I’ll want the next unit of Rangers to mix thing up a bit, but I’ll worry about that another day.









Besides, showing the Rangers again gives me a chance to show a nice large image of them in context, perched in the battlements of the Void Shield Generator.

Damn the bases for the Transuranic Arquebus models are freakin’ huge. The squad in my list is 8 strong but the battlement doesn’t really accommodate more than 6 miniatures with the 2 Transuranic Arquebus’ taking up so much floor space. Since this is their intended perch it looks like I might need to tweak my list a bit. The extra bodies are really just ablative wounds for the models with the wargear that matters, so I guess losing a few isn’t an issue, but I’m not sure if there are many options to make use of the points that will be freed up. Humm…









Delayed by finishing the Void Shield, the first squad of Plasma Caliver toting Vanguard is now caught up with the Rangers.









Here’s a large close-up to showcase the paint job and to have a look at the switch-and-swap conversions I did on the Alpha and the Omnispex operator.

I want to give the Alphas in the Vanguard squads Taser Goads in part because they are signature Mechanicus weapons that are unique looking but I also plan/hope to use the Vanguard to support some close combat actions where their Rad-saturation rule can offer some extra utility. So, with luck, the Alpha might add an exploding six with the Goad from time-to-time. Not knowing which unit will be called on to perform this (likely suicidal) maneuver I’m going to give them to all the Vanguard Alphas and that’s where the vile specter of repetition crops up. I also want at least some of the Alphas holding their Rad Carbines in both hands so that begs the question of what to do with the Taser Goad when I’m not using the stock bit.

The same problem arises with the Omnispex, since I don’t want every single model equipped with one to be in the exact same arm extended pose. So, in this case, I took the opportunity to do a simple switch-and-swap of the Omnispex arm and the Taser Goad arm; removing the Taser Goad from its arm let me easily add the Omnispex to it so it can be in a lowered position, and from there I needed to add the Taser Goad bit to the Alpha in a convincing way If I wanted him holding his Rad Carbine at the ready. So, with a bit of scratch build, I created a simple buckled strap to wrap around the weapon letting it be stowed on the Alpha’s backpack. Since the backpack already features a covering with straps and buckles it didn’t seem like a stretch.









+++ Recruit Selections 3440-3460; Implantation Process ‧ Ongoing +++ Production Expedited +++ Progress Reports ‧ Ongoing +++

Next up, two squads of Vanguard toting Arc Rifles, which is the minimum number of Skitarii I’ll need to complete my initial list. For future list flexibility I was going to force myself to complete 60 Skitarii before moving to bigger things, but the itch to work on projects that will benefit the list _right now_ is very strong so I suspect things might change. Any progress is good progress, however, so I’m not going to sweat my order of execution too much as long as whatever I work on is in the list. That damn Void Shield Generator is just too dominating, I need some bigger toys to bring it down some. 

Thanks for reading, following along, the kind words, and feedback. As always comments, questions, and general musing are always welcome.

Now go paint something!


----------



## Subtle Discord

So now for another tale of the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. My first batch of 3D printed parts was finished and shipped. They arrived yesterday and it’s a bit of a mixed bag that will, unfortunately, be delayed a bit while I find a solution.









First up, the Good. The larger components and objects that are best suited to the ProJet 3D printing process I had done turned out quite well.

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the precision of my designs or the ability of the printing process to make very accurate and true parts. Flat parts with details that didn’t involve undercuts were produced very clean and sharp. There is a minor bit of banding on the surfaces that can be made out in the picture just a bit; it’s not perfect but it’s very subtle and not a problem on larger pieces like this. A little filing, sanding, and some leveling primer should remove it. It’s a bit of work, but when undercuts and shapes that require support material come into play it becomes another issue altogether.









Now on to, the Bad. As you can see, the wax support material has a distinct effect on the surface quality of the printed components.

I’ve worked with PolyJet/ProJet parts several times in the past. It’s the process that Shapeways uses for their extreme detail printing and it’s an industry standard that is very good for many applications. If the parts I was creating were just a bit larger, had more pronounced details, and could be covered in several layers of paint, I might be able to make it work. Even with these parts, because they’re larger, it won’t be too bad to sand them, file them, and use some leveling primer to make them ready for casting. Again, more work when I prefer, but not too unreasonable. Unfortunately, this surface issue becomes a problem when the scale of the components shrinks one more level.









And this is, the Ugly. Despite the details on these smaller components being pretty simple the contact of the wax support material has turned the surface far too rough.

These parts were printed with a recent generation of ProJet printer (3510 HD), so I was hoping it would be better than some results I had in the past. While there were improvements to the quality of the prints and most of the parts are serviceable with a bit of prep work, the smaller bits of each of the kits will require a better printing solution. It looks like I’m back to shopping around for a company that can provide parts made with EnvisionTEC (Perfactory) printers if my research is correct.









In an effort to salvage some use from the parts I assembled one of the pintle weapons to test the fit and function of the kit.

There’s nothing wrong with how precise these parts are, that’s for sure; everything fits perfectly and functions exactly as I had hoped so the weapons can be swapped very easy. But despite the Bolters pictured here being some of the better ones that printed, and all the parts getting an alcohol scrub to remove some of the rough material, the surface quality is just too grainy and rough to leave as-is and it would be too much work to attempted to clean and refine them smooth. Nope, these components need to be printed with a better process from the get-go.

Due to costs, I was only able to print the first new Mk.3 Trim design and it will be prepped and be in mould rubber in the next few days. Most of the parts for the Havoc Launchers turned out well and I will be getting them prepped as well. But most of the parts for the Pintle Weapons, and one part for the Havoc Launcher, simply need to be reprinted to a better quality and I’ll be looking into that right away. I know it can be done, I just need to find the right people to do it. It’s frustrating to be delayed, but I was a little suspect that this might happen, so I’m trying to not let it be too disappointing and just get down to figuring out the solution to the problem.

I’ve got the ideas, the ability to 3D model and scratch build them, the skills to make good moulds, and the ability to produce great casts, I just need to get this damn prototyping nut cracked before I can be 100% confident that I have my entire manufacturing process down firm. To anyone who’s been patiently waiting for me to get properly up-and-running, sorry for the delays, but now I’m so close, with just one last (for now) puzzle to figure out.

*Sigh* I'm enjoying getting my studio up-and-running, but I can't wait until I get everything figured out for this. I'd rather just be painting right now.


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++ Submitting Progress Report ++ Recruit Selections 3440-3460; Implantation Process ‧ Ongoing +++ Production Expedited +++

Sleep now. More rambling later. Using new rubber for moulds, blessed by Nurgle (you'll see), and I like it. First new moulds finished tomorrow. Update to follow once they're done and the first casts are in hand. For now, bed ways is right ways. Viddy well my droogs. Viddy well.


----------



## Subtle Discord

What's old is new again. A refinement of the original Mk.1 design, the Mk.3 Proditor Rhino Trim kit preliminary casts are successful.

This is a new way I'm trying to cast these thin components, so I'm very relieved that they've cast properly. There's a bit of extra flash with this early cast, but it's tissue paper thin and cleans away quite easily. Some adjustments to how the moulds are clamped reduced the flash almost completely.

Further update to follow soon.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Up to this point, I’ve been pouring my vacuum casting moulds around the part and cutting the pour gate out of the mould by hand. Since the liquid resin expands considerably as it literally boils when it reaches full vacuum during this process, the pour gate needs to be quite large in relation to the part being created. Not only was cutting the gate by hand risky, given the amount of force required I was very worried I might slip doing it and severely cut myself, but it also wastes a large piece of perfectly useful RTV (Room Temp Vulcanizing) rubber.









Hey look! It’s one of the most _boring_ moulds I’ve ever made, and yet, it’s going to produce extremely useful objects for use in all future mould making.

With just three simple parts built from styrene (1cm, 2cm, and 5cm) I was able to create a modular pour gate that can be made larger in 1cm increments by stacking them in various combinations. Completely reusable, they can also be easily modified to make them slimmer for moulds that are thinner, like the ones I made for the new Proditor Trim Kit. Since I make two-part moulds they can also be stacked on the opposite side in the second part of the mould in order to double the gate size. They’re nothing revolutionary, but I’ve been procrastinating on making these simple-yet-functional bits for a while, so I’m glad I finally got them out of the way.

On a tangent side note, I can’t help but find it humorous that I am still unable to find a better solution to Lego for producing mould boxes. As I start to find more-and-more professional solutions for different parts of my production process the Lego keeps looking a little amateur beside it all, but I simply can’t ignore how completely functional and reliable it is. For the tiny bit of extra labour it takes to build and remove the box it creates perfect moulds of any shape or size (within reason), provided you have enough bricks. These bricks may have started life as colourful toys but for me, they’ve turned into real workhorses for my studio.









If the vivid pink Mold Max-30 RTV rubber I’ve been using was blessed by Slaanesh, then the sickly green Mold Max-40 has _got_ to be the work of grandpa’ Nurgle.

In an effort to make moulds that are even more resistant to deforming when they’re firmly clamped to avoid mould slips, mould lines, and flash, I’ve been giving Mold Max-40 a try. It is noticeably thicker and more difficult to mix so vacuum degassing of the rubber is really a must. It also takes longer to cure; where MM-30 can be ready in 12-16 hours, MM-40 takes closer around 18-24 hours. However, the rubber is noticeably stiffer while still being very flexible and tough, excellent for producing the thin and precise parts I’m after. I’ve been having some small problems with moulds deforming ever-so-slightly over time so I think the stiffer MM-40 will help mitigate that issue.









“Whats shades of green is that, puke?” … “For your information, it’s _called_ Electric Mucus.” ~ Futureama

Ok, so it’s not _quite_ Electric Mucus Green, but it’s definitely really close. I’ve grown quite fond of the unnatural hue, in fact.

As I’ve alluded to, the first new moulds created with 3D printed casting masters are for the Mk.3 Proditor Light Trim Kit designed to fit the Rhino Chassis. With this kit, there’s still a lot of straight lines going on but 3D modeling the parts finally lets me take advantage of precise curves and round elements that would be much trickier to produce in scratch-built styrene. There is still a frustrating extra layer of labour required to sand smooth and refine the surface to get it as smooth as possible before the mould making process, but I know how well the mould rubber replicates even subtle surface variations so I can’t let it slide. It’s hard to make it flawless but it’s not difficult (just tedious) to greatly reduce it so it disappears under a layer of primer and a few layers of paint.

















I’ve quickly mocked up the parts on a Rhino with absolutely none of its surface details removed, so the fit is a little comical in these images.

This is more to quickly showcase the look of the new kit on the model and give a close up look at the first new parts made by The Dark Works, so please forgive the fit. It’s appropriate that this should be the studio’s first new kit since it’s one of the key the original ideas that got me so much feedback from the community that it encouraged me to seriously consider starting the studio in the first place. Consider this a promissory note of my serious intent to redesign and update my current line while expanding the selection of new kits also available. Progress has been a bit slower than I expected, but I’m finally starting to get things sorted out and hope to start picking up the pace as I get each additional kink worked out of my process.

However, there is a bit of reality that comes with this kit in particular. While the costs of getting the smaller kits (more on those in the near future) 3D printed was in the expected price range, this Trim Kit was surprisingly more expensive than I was expecting; this one Trim Kit cost more to print than the parts to produce all four different models of the counts-as Havoc Launcher I’ve designed. While I had planned on getting all three designs of the first new Trim Kits printed, because they are/were still a bit experimental, the cost forced me to stick to only the Mk.3 while I made sure these would cast properly with the vacuum process.

While this isn’t scaring me away from making these Trim Kits or future Armour Kits and beyond, it has brought into focus that the cost of some of my larger ideas will likely be more expensive than I was first expecting. It goes without saying that I’ll need to crunch numbers, pay more attention to labour input as I work on smaller projects, and see how to best proceed when it comes time to start making my larger designs a reality. While finances are always a factor right now I have a few final technical issues that I want to put to bed before I start figuring out how I can make some of my larger ideas real from a cost perspective.

So, behold this tip of the spear, a modest sign of much more to come. Thanks for following along.


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++ Neural Congress ‧ Initialized +++ Comm-Link ‧ Active +++ Data Uplink‧ Initiazing +++ Decripting Uplink‧ Ongoing +++ Standby... +++


----------



## Subtle Discord

A sidetrack update because current painting progress is rather bland. _Yaaay_, I’ve cleaned up all the black and got some of the highlighting started… and the models look virtually no different in photographs. So I’ll continue doing the highlights and then it will be on to the green and that’ll justify a fresh round of images. I’m still not sure how I want to treat the Arc Rifles, but I’ll burn that bridge when I get to it.

In the meantime, I’ve been itching to build a bit, but I know that I really shouldn’t get too distracted if I want to stay on track getting paint on these core Troops. So I chose to turn my focus towards the first Tech-Priest Dominus I had started a while back; he’s been glowering at me from the corner of my monitor stand for several months, so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to get the final details done.









+++ Name ‧ To Be Determined +++ The first of two planned Tech-Priest Dominus’ using the official GW model has been converted to personalized it, but I didn’t really do anything too dramatic to the pose.

Since the change to the left arm removes a very static element of the miniature I figured I’d try to build on the ‘Now, I’m gonna’ hit you with *this!*’ feeling it was developing; I cut the model at the waist and twisted the torso slightly in an effort to tilt the head a little and give the pose a bit of a lean. Combined with the change to the right arm it’s not a huge difference but I think it makes it look like he’s about to move in the direction he’s looking opposed to the static pose of the original model.

A few other minor conversions and alterations to some details is just my attempt to alter the miniature a bit in easy ways. With the Start Collecting box ensuring that any AdMech collector will have multiple Dominus models at their disposal I know I’ll be using it as a base for at least a few more models. Anything that I can come up with to help change things up a bit and alter the look will be a good thing.









Stan: “We need to talk. Do you know what this about?” … Joanna: *Sighs* “My uh, _flair?_” … Stan: “Yeah. Or your uh, _lack_ of flair, because I’m counting and I only see fifteen pieces.” ~ Office Space

To that end, to add a bit of originality to the model and to represent a Mechanicus Relic I integrated an Infiltrator/Ruststalker backpack to the component (Refractor Field?) that attaches to the Dominus’ back. In this case, it will represent the Solar Flare relic available to armies with the Lucius Forge World dogma.

I added a post to the bottom of the Dominus’ back component to mount the smaller backpack on and it was very useful for holding the part in place as I tweaked the styrene rods I used to act as cables between the two bits. No heat bending involved, I just cut 0.8mm styrene rod to length and bent them into the desired shape; after a bit of adjustment, I got a droop that I was happy with and then glued all the parts together.









Originally intended to be a Heretek Priest to lead a renegade Mechanicus militia force, the changes that arrived with 8th edition have put that plan into stasis… for now.

Since I have the need of a Tech-Priest Enginseer for my current list it looks like this miniature is going to find its way back to its original purpose. It’s a bit more converted then it needs to be but I don’t think the rule-of-cool will mind. It’s not like the Enginseer has any wargear options to cause any confusion over, despite what the model looks like.

I figured it was a reasonable distraction to get these two models done since I need to have _something_ on deck and ready for primer once I get the current squads of Vanguard finished. Now that I’ve given myself a small styrene fix I think it’ll be easier to return my focus to the Vanguard and get them done.

*Subtle wanders off to paint some highlights*


----------



## Subtle Discord

Home stretch! The next twenty Skitarii Vanguard are turning the final corner to being done. Black and blue highlights are finished and now I’m on to the green elements.









Do you see the light!? A bright background to celebrate the impending preliminary completion of these two squads…

*In his best Kermit the Frog voice*

It’s not easy, painting green
All the small bits, you know what I mean
But when you’re done the blue
You know what you’ve got to do

It’s not easy, painting green
So many models, have you seen?
But you know when you’re through
It’s going to be right after the blue









... and now return to the dark with me, as I turn to accept that I now have to do a bunch of backpacks and heads. Yaaay, backpacks…

Since the other racks I’ve made have been quite useful but didn’t really have enough room for the heads and other small bits I figured one more to complete the set couldn’t hurt. I’ve used round bamboo skewers for the sticks in this case; they’re nice and slim while still being very stiff. I still prefer lightly gluing backpacks to the pictured styrene sticks, but this rack will help with all the other small bits for sure.

I’ll be priming the Tech-Priest Dominus and Enginseer along with these Skitarii components, so once the Vanguard are finished I’ll have something to step right in and start getting paint. And as the Tech-Priests start seeing some colour I’ll also get working on the squad of three Dragoons for the preliminary list. I see the Dragoons as roughly the halfway point, so yeah, progress! I’m quite keen to get working on them… and the bigger things that their completion will foretell…

Still can’t get that damn Micro-Ordinatus for a counts-as Baneblade (or other Super Heavy variant) idea out of my brain…
… or the Lucius Pattern Imperial Knight idea…
… or that Onager M.U.L.E. concept…
… or the Irradial Cogitator WIP…
… or that tri-leg Knight idea…
… or the Spider Titan…
… or the Kytan…

Shoot, I better get back to painting! So many ideas waiting their turn…

*Subtle wanders off to put some more paint on plastic*


----------



## Subtle Discord

*Subtle stumbles out of the wilderness that is research, clothing tattered, eyes bloodshot, a stoic look of determination on his face. He spits blood and checks that he isn't seriously injured...*









I have searched. I have found. I have seen. It _can_ be done. Yes, I think I've found my 3D printing solution. Note: not my finger.

F*** it, I'm going to do it *ALL* in-house, dammit! These have been produced with a 3D printer that is within my budget; it's not exactly cheap, but it doesn't require considering a second mortgage on the house, so it's realistic. Intended primarily for jewelry applications I think it's easy to see that it does very well on the surface quality. I want to stew on it a little and do a bit more research (ugh, it's actually exhausting to do), but I think this might be the final piece of the process that I'm looking for. I've been looking at maaany images over the last weeks and months while only paying attention when they're high-resolution close-ups, and these consistent kinds of results are what I was looking for.

I have no doubt that this is about to create a significant learning curve that I'll need to climb, but hell I've already figured out the rest of the process, what's one last piece? Wanna' come along for the ride? I think things are about to get... _interesting..._ in several more weeks.


----------



## Subtle Discord

"Squirrel!!"

"Where?!"

Time for a tangent.









Small battery powered multicolour LEDs with a remote control? Well shucks, I've got to be able to come up with an idea for these. *Ponders*

So I ordered another batch of Plasma Globes for my Shield Generator kit and I picked up a few packs of these remote control LED lights to play around with. The remote works surprisingly well but it's Infra Red so the receiver needs some line-of-sight to work; I won't be able to bury these inside an object unless I leave some kind of access port for the IR signal to reach the light, or some simple way to open the object and access the light to activate/change them. I guess I'll need to fool around with them a bit and see what kinds of solutions I can come up with.

Any ideas from readers for what you think they might be good for will be most welcome. Off the top of my head, I'm thinking Objective Markers that can change colour depending on their status and to just put them in scenery in general. I have at least one personal project that some will be used for... but that's another story for another day. So yeah, any suggestions are always welcome food for thought.


----------



## Subtle Discord

*Maniacal laugh!* Who needs sleep!?









So close it hurts, the next 20 Skitarii are within a stone’s throw of being finished. *Subtle picks up a stone*

I thought these squads might get completed faster since I had most of the scheme worked out when I started them. Thinking about it, perhaps they were by a bit quicker, but it sure hasn’t felt like it as I worked away on them. Still another round of small details and they’ll be ready for their first coat of varnish.









*Sigh* Have I ever mentioned I hate backpacks? Yeah, for some reason I really hate backpacks, it’s kinda’ strange.

They’ve become my new basing. Many years ago I did my basing last, and it was always a frustrating and daunting final step required to complete an otherwise finished model. Now that I do my basing as part of the assembly painting the damn backpacks has taken the place as a final… monotonous step… to… complete… rdfntx ghbymgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgthgth…

*Subtle fall asleep on his keyboard*


----------



## Subtle Discord

WAITRESS: We got two ******* out there dressed like Hasidic diamond merchants.
MATT: Say what?
WAITRESS: They look like they're from the CIA or something.
MATT: What'd they want to eat?
WAITRESS: The tall one wants white bread toast with nothing on it.
MATT: (whispers) Elwood....
WAITRESS: And the other one wants three whole fried chickens and a Coke.
MATT: (aloud) ...and Jake! ****, the Blues Brothers!









Damn it, I’ve managed to lose one of the Dragoons ‘toes’. Oh well, I guess I’ll need to use it as an excuse to design a replacement. However, I'll worry about that bridge when I get to it.

+++ Preliminary Production Queue ‧ Status Update +++

+ Void Shield Generator ‧ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Rangers x10 (TA) ‧ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Caliver) ‧ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Arc) ‧ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Arc) ‧ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Tech-Priest Dominus (E. Ray) ‧ Build & Prime Complete
+ Tech-Priest Enginseer ‧ Build & Prime Complete
+ Sydonian Dragoons x3 ‧ Build Commencing…
+ Cybernetica Datasmith ‧ Pending…
+ Kastelan Robots x2 ‧ Pending…
+ Onager x3 ‧ Pending…
+ Tech-Priest Dominus (Volkite) ‧ Pending…

















I took some images on a white background but I'm not liking how it affects the colours. I didn't want to completely toss out the effort so here are a few of the better images out of the batch.


----------



## Subtle Discord

++++++++
++
+++++
++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
++
+++++
Information Exchange ∙ Update
++++++++
Display ∙ Data File Excerpt
+++ 








+++ Encryption Protocols ∙ Accepted +++ Logistics Transport Comm-Link ∙ Open +++ Transport Requesting ∙ Safe Approach Telemetry +++ Providing Telemetry Uplink +++
++++++
Primary Cogitator ∙ Upgrade Complete
Primary Cogitator ∙ Initializing…
Primary Cogitator ∙ Online
Primary Cogitator ∙ Resuming Design Creation Subroutines
++++
++++++++++
Secondary Cogitator ∙ Assembly Complete
Secondary Cogitator ∙ Initializing…
Secondary Cogitator ∙ Online
Secondary Cogitator ∙ Awaiting Solus Servitor Data-Link Connection
++
++++++
++++
Updates to Follow ∙ Standby…
+++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
++++
++++++
++


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++
++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++
++++++++
Information Exchange ∙ Update
++++
++
Display ∙ Data File Excerpt
+++++ 








+++Solus Pattern Task Servitor ∙ Primary Calibration Complete +++ Secondary Cogitator ∙ Neural Data-Link… Successful + Motivation Subroutines ∙ Installed +++
++++++++++
Beginning Initial Test Production ∙ Stand by… 
+++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++
+++++
++

Ok, I _think_ I’ve got it all setup correctly and reasonably well calibrated. As suggested by the manufacturer I’m starting with the higher resolution (smaller build area) configuration for the initial test prints.









While I’m sure there is still much to learn about object placement and supports to get the best results possible, the printing software seems reasonably straightforward and intuitive.

I’ve dabbled a bit with a more complex layout pictured here to get used to how the supports are generated and object orientation, but I’ll be starting much simpler when I actually try a print. Despite the build area being small with some care it’ll be possible to fit quite a bit into the space; larger objects will need to be done piece by piece, but that’s fine, I’ll have plenty to occupy my time while Servitor Solus works away.

What I’m really hoping is that the drop in resolution that will provide a larger build area won’t have too much impact on the quality. A 41 micron XY resolution (vs the 25 micron XY of the high res setup) is still very small. Both configurations can print at 10 micron Z (layer) resolution with the resin I’m using, so I’m staying optimistic that the Z resolution will be the key factor.

However, first up, I need to figure out how to crawl, then I’ll worry about walking, let alone running. Let’s see what Servitor Solus can do, shall we?


----------



## Subtle Discord

Ok, it’s going to take a bit of practice to zero in on the adjustments I’ll need to make to get the prints exactly where I want them. There are some obvious flaws that I’ll need to sort out (more on that in a second) but there’s also a general lack of sharpness in some of the details that I suspect will get sorted with some focus and/or settings adjustments. But considering some of the horrible failures I was seeing from some people on the manufacturer’s forums, I consider this first test print a complete success; both parts were created with no major failures.









The resin smells like something that belongs on a Mechanicus Forge World; a strange metallic tang with an odd musty undertone. Toxic in liquid form, it smells the part.

Fresh from the Servitor, I can’t help but think Khorne would be proud since it’s very close to a fresh blood-red colour; almost like creating objects from a congealed red gore and rather fitting for a Dark Forge World if I do say so myself. Note that I printed these at particular angles to help minimize supports and see if there would be any ‘stair stepping’ caused by the unique angles. The supports are attached so delicately that I didn’t even take a picture of the parts clean and with the supports in place; I was too eager to inspect the parts and the supports were so delicate they just broke away. However, this did cause some surface damage so in future I’m going to take more care in removing the supports. I suspect that most of my deformation problems are caused by insufficient supports… (get used to hearing the word ‘supports’ often)









Ok, so there’s a bit of warping and that a problem that needs sorting, but look at the _surface quality!!_ I mean, it’s as smooth as GW styrene on 99% of the surfaces.

The edge that has the warping was the bottom edge in the print and I suspect that I didn’t add enough extra supports to keep it true so it drifted until the mass became large enough to stabilize. If I’m right, it’s going to be an easy fix. I was expecting that the support placement was going to be key and something that will improve with experience, so this isn’t really surprising. And there’s no way to be frustrated when the surface quality is _so *good.*_ First I solve the warping issue and then the surface quality is waiting for me when I get it sorted out.









I’m purposely showing the bad side of the print of this part that is suffering from a little deformation; again while it’s lacking a bit of sharpness the surface quality is much better than the original prints I had outsourced.

I picked these two components as test prints because they were parts that I was particularly disappointed with in my first batch of outsourced 3D prints. The particular issue with this Combi-plasma comes down to some of the details and how small/fine they are (the two small round vents on the side in particular) and how the print process struggled with the details. The original prints were sharper and it did a bit better in some ways, but still not good enough for me; this is a case where I need to adjust how I 3D model and just avoid certain details executed in a certain way at a certain scale.

Now the surface issues are a general problem and something this part also suffered with. In the location where the support wax was used in the original prints, there’s an obvious effect; the photographed roughness can be scrubbed off, but it does leave a rough surface. That needs to be dealt with and/or it’s just affecting details that are too small to easily clean up. Also, a general layering can be seen in many parts on flat surfaces that should actually be quite easy to print perfectly smooth. These were the key problems I _had_ to solve and Servitor Solus is pulling its weight; again, while the sharpness is a bit off (and I know I can improve on that) the surface quality is what matters, and it’s _amazing!_ This printer changes _everything_ for me and making my ideas real, seriously…









The curve of lenses/optics and thin details are also a challenge for 3D printing and I don’t think it’s hard to see why I wasn’t happy with how this part turned out originally.

Again, this is a part as it was originally 3D printed that wasn’t up to the standards I’m aiming for, and being able to pull something like this off had to happen. On this little part Servitor Solus really proved to me that it’s got what it takes to deliver the results I’m after. If I can do this on my first try, I know my results are only going to improve, yup, this little printer has what it takes to get the job done; every curve of this part is smooth beyond what I was expecting. I better get used to the sound this printer makes, I’m going to be listening to it non stop over the coming weeks, months, and years.

Oh yeah, and these parts were printed at ‘only’ 25 micron Z (layer) resolution, so I still need to turn it down to 10 micron layers and see how much farther it takes things. It literally increases the build time by x2.5, but if it brings noticeable improvements on fine details it might be worth it with the right components. Much more tinkering and experimenting to do, but this has me so encouraged I can’t wait to get started.


----------



## Subtle Discord

After another bout of research, I made some physical adjustments, carefully recalibrated Servitor Solus from scratch, and made a few adjustments to the printing software. After finding a good stress-test model and giving it a go, I do believe I’ve cracked this nut.









While there’s a lot of them the supports taper down to a 0.1mm point before attaching to the model so they usually have very little Impact on the surface.

This is printed at the intended 10x10x10mm, and it’s doing a good job of pushing Solus to its limits; however, I am still using ‘only’ 25 micron Z resolution so I still have room to push it further. Some of the extremely small details are struggling but I’m not interested in making gaps 0.1mm wide, so that’s fine. Anything that is at the scale I’ll be interested in is turning out cleanly and the surface quality, in general, is better than I was seriously expecting; I was hoping Servitor Solus would be capable but I was trying to be cautiously optimistic. That reservation is all out of the window now, Solus is _amazing_ and I can’t wait to start making amazing things with it.









Oh, and if I had any question about the dimensional accuracy, well that’s not going to be an issue either. Yep, nothing wrong with that.

One of these was built with supports, the second was created with no supports and to my surprise, Solus handled all of the overhangs with no problem at all. This is good, letting me create smaller details in designs that don’t necessarily need supports to print correctly. The supports are a necessary evil but it’s always good to minimize them whenever possible. The text is so small I’m amazed it’s even coming out as clearly as it is here. I wouldn’t even want to do lettering or details that small, but it really builds my confidence in Servitor Solus.









After seeing the test cube at 1:1 scale I decided to try to double it in size and see how it would turn out.

At 20x20x20mm the scale of the details here is a much better representation of the kinds of things I’ll be making. The lettering is clean and defined, the edges are sharp and true, curves are completely smooth, the dimensions are accurate, and the surface quality is as good as ever. Additionally, the parts that are created are _very_ strong, which is a little surprising; the UV resin based 3D prints I’ve worked with in the past was very hard and brittle, but these prints are very tough and not brittle in the slightest. This is unexpected, but naturally not a bad thing in the slightest. Making moulds can be very tough on delicate models, so the tougher they are the better. From here on in I think the biggest problems will arise from issues stemming from support placement. I’ve got proof positive that Solus is up to the task as long as I set things up correctly.

*Subtle’s eyes glaze over*

I’m actually kinda’… numb. I’ve got _the_ tool sitting here, dialed in and _ready_ to go, and I almost don’t know where to start!  Well, next up, let’s see if I can fill the tray with studio components and continue to get these positive results. _Anticipation intensifies!_

P.S. Time to start tossing your model and kits ideas out into the open if you happen to have any. I know I ask this now-and-then and it may seem like they disappear into a vacuum, trust that I plan to comb Legion Rising over the coming weeks and I have been keeping a notebook for a while to jot down all manner of ideas that might cross my mind and/or eyes. I _do_ make use of the input, and now I _really_ have all the parts in place to get things started I think it’s time to stir the pot-o’-ideas, as it were. I’ve got lots of 3D models ready, and many more ideas waiting in the wings, but I want to work on projects that strike a balance between kits I think I ‘need’ to make on a planned schedule and kits I’m more inclined to ‘want’ to make to keep things interesting. Right now I’m interested in food for thought that I can contemplate as I take care of my backlog; again, with so many possibilities I’m not sure where to start.


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## Subtle Discord

I was a bit presumptuous when I thought I had Servitor Solus sorted out. While I'm getting great results with regards to the details and surface quality (that's what had me fooled) there's still a bit of distortion that's causing some final fit issues.









Al... most... _there!_ The quality sure has come a long way since the first print; it's easy to see how the right settings and adjustments to Solus have made all the difference.

Physical Setup? Check.
Focus? Check.
Exposure? Check.
Build Tension? Check.
Lift speed? Check.
Surface quality? Check.
Detail precision? Check.
Edge definition? Check.
Round rivets? Check.
Small-scale geometry? Check.
Large-scale geometry? &%$#!! Workin' on it...

All of the results have been so good _looking_ that I know that once I get this last bit figured out I'll be laughing (_maniacally!_) and off to the races. This little Servitor is going to be running non-stop for weeks I suspect. It's not fast, but it's simply amazing to see a cluster of objects slowly rise from the goo; UV light and goo! Science is ****ing *awesome.*

So yeah, the last issue I'm having is with larger objects being slightly geometrically incorrect. On smaller items it's so slight it doesn't really matter but on larger objects it's enough to cause problems. The biggest problem is with getting round objects true (think vehicle cupola rings/hatches) and completely, well... round. Again, they're only out by a small margin (hardly visible to the eye, really) but it's out too much to get the proper fit and function of the round items I'll be making. The good news is Solus is used extensively by jewelers to print rings for casting so I _know_ that this is an issue that comes up and can be solved. I've seen much worse warping on rings shown by people having a much harder time than me so I'm confident I'll get this sorted in short order... I hope.

Again, the quality of the parts I've made has me _completely_ convinced (just look at that Bolter) that the final results I'll be getting will be worth the effort, but I'll admit it's not the easiest learning curve to climb. I'm pretty sure I can see the summit, but it's going to take one last push to get there. I can't wait to show something assembled; so many nice parts that just won't quite fit together correctly! Can't have that!

*Subtle gets back to tinkering and testing*


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## Subtle Discord

What a glorious day, and completely fitting since it happens to be May 1st; not only a day to celebrate the onset of spring but also a day to recognize workers’ rights. After a late April cold snap that had it snowing in my area when it’s usually raining, today is _finally_ warm enough to let me open up the windows to the studio and let some fresh spring air in. Conversely, as someone who believes that the world is shifting into a new era that will see major changes in how many will perceive and engage in work, I can identify only too well with the idea of workers having control over their circumstances and fate, as I attempt to get my modest studio up-and-running. This actually touches on a topic I want to elaborate on more as I consider the future of the studio and just how I want it to be structured internally and within the marketplace; I see what I think is an opportunity to create something new and unique to/for the tabletop gaming community, but I digress for now, as I need to get my own start-up issues sorted out before I seriously start considering my next step/s. So, to that end, I woke up today to a new set of components completed by Servitor Solus as I slept…









“That’ll do pig… That’ll do.” - Babe (Yes, I’m an oddly eclectic mix of cultural references) I’ll need to do a few more prints to ensure that these results will be consistent, but this is looking _really_ good!

As recommended by the manufacturer I was initially printing at 25µ XY resolution to get everything setup and running. It’s amazingly precise but it only provides a build area of 48x27mm to work with. While many things can actually fit in this area and larger objects can be cut down (and assembled after printing but before mould making), it’s still a very cramped space to work with despite the excellent resolution. The resolution was so fine that I was hoping that printing at 42µ XY wouldn’t impact the quality too much, but I wouldn’t know until I gave it a try.

So since I needed to adjust the setup anyhow I chose to switch to the 42µ XY resolution which will provide a much more useful 80x45mm build area. For this print, I also experimented with a 15µ Z (layer) resolution, where I’ve been using 25µ Z (layer) resolution up to this point. While there is a _slight_ drop in print quality it really is so subtle that I don’t think it will be an issue at all; a layer of primer and a few layers of paint should deal the vast majority of any issues since most are as small as flaws you find in a styrene injection moulded GW kit. A tiny bit of sanding should deal with any of the ‘bad’ spots and I use the word loosely since even the ‘bad’ spots are still really very good. Once I’m more confident in the calibration I’ll do some painting tests to see what the threshold is to aim for to avoid issues.









I’m still working out the finer points of support placement, so I had a few small issues with some surfaces deforming just a little bit with this print.

The software used to generate the supports can do it automatically, but it tends to be very heavy-handed and lacks accuracy so lots of time is spent cleaning up what was created in an effort to save time. I’ve since started placing my own supports and have gotten good results, but there are a few situations that I need more practice dealing with. I’ve had very few absolute failures but I have had a few issues with deformation due to poor support placement. Not only do supports provide material to an overhang point making it possible to form correctly, they also hold the component steady during the print process to ensure accuracy. Getting the support right has a considerable impact on the final results on several levels.

Even when everything is setup correctly some quirk can occasionally happen with the print and cause a deformation or failure, especially if the object particularly is small or involves unique angles. I’ve come to the conclusion that I may need to print multiples of some objects and select the successful ones out of the batch for final use. Not a major hurdle, but it’s good to note that it’s not an absolute guarantee something will work, even if it did in a previous print. It’s still very reliable, just not absolutely guaranteed.

















 “Alright Mr. DeMille, I’m ready for my close-up.” - Sunset Blvd. (See, I told you) I hope you like the colour red because it’s likely to feature prominently over the coming months and years.

However, it’s a colour that’s a bit frustrating to photograph since it really doesn’t show contrast all that well. Even trying to tweak the images in Photoshop doesn’t really help that much. There’s just something about this hue of bright red that resists providing the kind of depth in the images that I’m after. I’ll experiment a bit with how I light things going forward and hopefully I can improve on the contrast in the images. It’s not horrible here but it’s also not nearly as strong as I’d prefer it to be.

Like any good experimentation process, taking care to pay attention the different variables as you work through the problem is key. Try not to adjust too many variables at once or it might be hard to determine which one produced a given result or something else unexpected my result. As I was zeroing in on the calibration of Solus the fit of several parts was far too tight; with items I had 3D printed in the past the tolerances I used were good, but they seemed a bit too tight for Solus. So I tweaked the 3D models a bit for this last print and while they worked and fit together some of the parts are actually a bit too loose for my liking now. Again, not a huge problem, but now I need to sit down and really sort out the best practices I’ll need to follow as I do 3D modeling going forward. Since there is a tiny bit of shrinkage during the casting process I need to be sure to get the fit right.

Ok, now it’s just down to the fine-tuning and then I’ll get to work trying to produce some actual casting masters. I’ll be focusing on the Rhino (+ Predator) chassis to start and work my way up in the size of the kits I’ll be doing for it. Once I’ve got a good selection for the Rhino I’ll move to the Land Raider and give it similar treatment. Naturally, there’ll be a bit of overlap with a few kits that’ll work on both. From there I’ll consider my options, and it’s quite likely that there will be some random creations added to the mix along the way.

Thanks as always for reading and following along, there are some interesting times on the horizon and it’s going to be lots of fun exploring the possibilities. Comments, questions, musing, and general ramblings are always welcome. Ideas and food for thought are particularly welcome now as my mind begins to really wrap around the potential that Task Servitor Solus provides to my studio. I will take some time to comment directly to people who have and/or will provide input in the near future, once I’ve got some things sorted out and more time to reflect and reply properly.


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## Subtle Discord

+++
++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++
++++
Information Exchange ∙ Update
++++++









+++ Certamen Pattern Vehicle Weapons + Prototype Component Production ∙ Complete +++ Preparing Full Scale Production ∙ Ongoing… +++

+++++++
++









+++ Interitus Pattern Missile Launcher + Prototype Fit Tolerance Testing ∙ Ongoing… +++ Initial Components Produced ∙ Assembly Complete +++

+++++
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+++ Interitus Pattern Missile Launcher + Test Assembly ∙ Successful +++ Final Tolerance Adjustments ∙ Ongoing… +++ Further Updates to Follow ∙ Standby… +++

+++++++
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Comm-Link ∙ Active
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## Subtle Discord

Yeah, straight from the vat the parts look like a complete mess but a quick alcohol wash takes care fo that. They're also still slightly soft and rather sticky at that point but a round in the UV oven sorts that out. For just how little I've actually used Solus I think I'm getting the hang of it. Ultimately it's a combination of user skill and knowledge tempered with some luck; you can set everything up correctly and have parts print incorrectly simply due to bad luck. If everything is setup correctly the odds are vastly in your favor but that's not a 100% guarantee it will print correctly or that some other minor issue won't cause some flaws in the print. But simply, all of the amazingly positive results I've been getting more than outweighs any minor issues I may have.

Ok, so I've been a good little Fabricator General up to this point, keeping my focus on studio 3D models intended for production by the Forge World as I calibrate Servitor Solus. But since I've got some Dragoons to build I figured I'd permit myself a small distraction to create a few test bits that can also serve another purpose...









Inspired by the flat angular elements found in Lucius vehicle designs, I created some armour plates that have a more subtle curve and distinct crease lines. Oh, and droopy toes, I also made a few droopy toes.

This is partly a quick personal project, but also a small test to see if I can do something like this on a whim. The parts have some subtle curves that I want to try and challenge Solus with. I've also just had the idea to create some combat weapon arms to replace the clamps that come with kit; ooo... I _like_ that idea. Or maybe I should integrate the Phosphor Serpenta into one of the arms? Hummm, there might be one or two more bits to come for this idea. Stay tuned.

I've tried hard to keep the critical measurement similar to the parts these bits will replace to ensure the fit, but I won't know until I can test them on the model. Fingers crossed that they'll fit, but there's a good chance I'll need to make some adjustments before they sit on the model correctly. Once they're dialed in, however, they could easily become a low-cost kit for the shop (minus the Atrum Laboris elements); in this case, given the price of the model they attach to, I'd want to keep the kit reasonably simple and as low-cost as possible.

These will be getting transmitted to Servitor Solus shortly, so I should have parts-in-hand by tomorrow at the latest. I'll be sure to take a few images of the components fresh from the vat and some of how they fit/look on the model.


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## Subtle Discord

Useful distraction time!! One part personal project, one part equipment testing, and one part product development. So, while I was 3d printing some other items that will be used during mould making (more on that in a future article) I added the new Dragoon/Ironstrider parts. With these components, I have since concluded that Servitor Solus is a small piece of the Omnissiah made real and gifted to my Forge World so that I might make my ideas real.









Here’s an image to give an idea of how subtly curved the surfaces is that I’m trying to print; concave or convex, Servitor Solus delivers top quality surfaces.

This is the first attempt at 3D printing the components and they look really good but the fit isn’t quite there; the plate is sitting too far away from the leg, the radius that could be matching the round detail of the hip is off, and I didn’t leave nearly enough clearance for the hoses that attach to the inside of the leg. That said, the parts look good otherwise and the overall forms are blending with the model nicely, if I do say so myself.









On the left is the first attempt, printed straight vertically. On the right is the second attempt that was tilted 10° to try and improve the surface quality, but it made the result worse.

I’m still unsure if there’s a better sweet spot for the printing angle of this component, but even the first attempt is actually quite good. You can see layering when the light reflects off of the surface, but it’s so subtle it can hardly be felt if you drag your fingernail across the surface. Its surfaces like this that have me wondering if a layer of primer and paint will hide the marks or will it be better to refine the surface a bit before mould making. I’ll be sure to do some painting tests at some point to attempt to find out where the tipping point is for this. I want to avoid labour if it’s not needed, but surface problems are so rare with parts created by Solus even if I do need to sand a few surfaces before mould making, that’s a small price to pay for all the other things Solus does right.









To the left I sanded the first print with a 600 grit sanding stick just a little bit to get this smooth result. To the right is the part straight from Servitor Solus.

See, the effort to clean up this component is very minor and it’s quite easy to get really nice results so it’s not that much of an issue to deal with it. Solus does a great job of avoiding these issues on most surfaces but when they do show up they’re easy to deal with compared to any other 3D prints I’ve worked with in the past. The more I work with Servitor Solus the more I’ve come to conclude that it _is_ some small part of the Omnissiah made real and gifted to my Forge World so that I might make my ideas a reality. It’s far from foolproof but there’s no denying the results, and every test I throw at it has me come away convinced that Solus is more than up to the tasks I will be requiring it to complete in the future.

I show large images to illustrate how seriously I’m taking the issue of quality, I _really_ want to produce some of the best kits on the market and I want people to be able to see for themselves the standards I’m after. It’s taken a little longer than I wanted to get everything up-and-running, but now that I’m in the final testing of Solus I know the last pieces of this first puzzle are falling into place. For now, the first round of mould making is underway so further updates will be coming soon.









Praise be to the power of _iteration!_ The fit of this second attempt is better but it’s going to take at least one more round of tweaking to perfect it.

That said, even with a few alignment and clearance issues (there’s still not enough room for the hoses to attach to the inside of the leg – D’oh!) I think the parts are turning out quite well. They give the model a unique look without it being too dramatic of a change. I’m particularly happy with how the combat arm attachment turned out…









I actually tried to print six of them in a few different poses but five of them failed to print correctly. I already know what went wrong, so this shouldn’t happen again in the future.

With all sorts of details just fractions of a millimeter in size I was worried Servitor Solus might not be able to reproduce everything, but right down to the _tiny_ gear teeth around the inside circle of the serrated blade, Solus was up to the task. Heck, each of the teeth on the blade is only 0.8mm tall by 1.0mm wide and they’re all perfect. There’s literally no reason why I might want to create details smaller than this, so this really shows that Solus has opened the portal to virtually any idea in my mind becoming a reality, _if_ I can model it in 3D. Interesting times ahead…

As always, comments, questions, input, ideas, and general hobby musings are always welcome. Thanks for looking and following along.

*Subtle wanders off to do more 3D modeling*


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Neural Congress ∙ Initialized +++ External Vox Vocalizer ∙ Activated + "Third iteration, blessed by the Omnissiah!" + Broadcast Diabolical Laughter ∙ 03 +++ Data Downlink ∙ Ongoing... +++


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## Subtle Discord

Here’s a bit of a mixed bag with this update. First up I wanted to show some images from the studio’s workbench to illustrate what I’m doing to improve and streamline my mould making process. I’m sure there’s a few of you who’ve been reading my recent articles outlining my progress working with Servitor Solus and wondering ‘what the heck is taking so long to get casting?!’ and I wanted to take a moment to show what I’ve been doing that’s delated me a bit. This is an effort to reduce the labour of producing casting moulds to improve their production in the future, while also aiming for a top quality outcome that will ensure the best possible casts for the customer.

I’ve mentioned it a few times over the years, but I’ll reiterate, I _hate_ ‘split moulds’ which are very common in casting resin models; with a split mould you place the object in the mould box and pour one complete block of rubber to completely encase the object, and then cut into the rubber down to the master object to free it from the mould rubber. While this is a method that saves labour during the mold making process it comes with problems that I simply despise. Not only can you damage the casting master as you cut it free, if the object is small and/or thin it can be very difficult if not impossible to cut the item free in a clean manner; even if you can cut the item free it generally creates an uneven mould line that you have very little control over. As such, they tend to ‘slip’ rather easily producing really obvious mould lines at best and horrible detail ruining mould slips at worse. Ever see a really nice resin cast model with a big ugly mould line/slip in a rather odd/obvious location? You can thank quickly made split moulds used/run as quickly as possible for that.

My studio will *Never* use split moulds. By producing a two-part mould extra time and labour _is_ needed but you can have complete control over where the mould line goes and you can produce a mould that literally resists mould slipping and therefore creates almost invisible mould lines almost every time. Done right, this can also help the mould open and close making it easier to extract the components without damaging the mould and/or badly warping the part. Given the cost of RTV rubber, putting some extra labour into making a mould that can be in use for years to produce dozens of copies of an object seems like a shrewd investment; since it also means that it noticeably improves the quality of the components produced, this is simply a no-brainer choice for the studio to standby.

A quick first point, the RTV rubber is _not_ binding to the surface of the 3D prints made by Solus as I make the moulds. This small detail is a _huge_ positive for the studio. Past 3D prints made with the PolyJet process (what Shapeways uses) creates components that have a porous surface that needs to be properly sealed before making moulds, or the rubber binds with the object causing all sorts of problems. Servitor Solus makes parts with such a refined and smooth surfaces this issue simply doesn’t happen; to say this is a good outcome would be a huge understatement. It’s not something most people might even concern themselves with, but know that I’m the kind of perfectionist that does it on your behalf.  









Encouraged by the accuracy that Solus has been achieving I’ve been working out the tolerances to produce ‘inserts’ that fit into the negative space of parts during the mould making process.

If an object you’re casting has a nice flat back it’s a simple process of laying it on the casting clay, adding the vents/gates, and pouring RTV rubber over the item; once the first half is cured flip the mould, remove the casting clay, and pour the second half. Now, if the object has all-around details with no obvious flat side and/or has obvious overhangs and/or holes that will lock the item in the rubber, you need to find some way to back-fill them to block the rubber in the first half of the mould. Up to this point I did this by hand using the casting clay, sharp blades, and sculpting tools to fill in these kinds of locations. This is where labour in creating a two-part mould can add up, and every time the mould wears out the process needs to be repeated. I’ll do it if I have to, but I wanted to find a better way.

With Servitor Solus completely at my disposal, opposed to outsourcing my 3D printing, I was able to do the trial-and-error necessary to get the tolerances as tight as I could manage to create standardized inserts for the components that will benefit from them. The example above is quite simple, but even with more complex objects creating a seat to occupy the negative area is reasonably straightforward in Solidworks. So, in most cases where it’s needed I should be able to create an insert for a component to simplify the process; place the object on the insert to make one side flat, place them on the clay, add the vents/gates, pour the rubber, cure the first half and flip, remove the clay, pull out the inserts, and pour the second half of the mould. Also, note how doing it this way will have the mould line follow the inside corner/edge perfectly making it really easy to clean up.

The last hurdle I’m trying to figure out with this process is how to better seal the paper-thin gap between the insert and the component so it resists the RTV rubber from seeping in between the two objects. If it’s not sealed the pressure curing process I use on my moulds creates a film of rubber that needs to be cleaned up before pouring the second half of the mould. Not a huge deal but it would be nice to avoid it to further streamline the process. I’m researching if there’s a readymade product that can do the job but it might just be as simple as adding a bit of petroleum gel in the gap and cleaning the edge. So, a few more tests are still ongoing to see if I can solve this, but the overall idea of making precision fit inserts in general seems to be viable thanks to how well Solus works.

All that said, the first moulds for the Pintle Weapon Kit (Certamen Mk.1, 2, 3) will be starting to finish over the next few days and the first casts and test assemblies will follow shortly after; I _can’t wait_ to see the parts in grey resin. With limited equipment right now mould making is a bit of a catch-22, since I need to use my casting chambers to create my moulds the process unfortunately stops me from being able to cast, and vice-versa. Naturally, more chambers are planned, but for now it’s an annoying reality.

Ok, with all of that word salad dished out, let’s have last look (for now) at the final successful iteration of the Dragoon/Ironstrider bits to see how they turned out, shall we?









Since the red color tends to mute the contrast in the parts, here’s a screenshot of the last bits I did for the Dragoon/Ironstrider in Solidworks.

The first print I did of the Phosphor Serpenta arm was good but it didn’t quite ‘feel’ right to me and seemed a bit heavy; after it was commented that it seemed a bit off balance I figured it wouldn’t hurt to tweak the 3D model a bit. In the above image the back end of the weapon has been slimmed down a little to remove a bit of bulk while still keeping the same form, opposed to the Serpenta in the photograph below. It’s a subtle change but I think it suits the arm better now. These bits were a bit of a distraction within a distraction, but I’m so pleased with how all the components turned out I’m glad I took the time to make the extra bits. The components only change, what, 5-10% of the model? But it really does give the model a distinct look while not diverging too much.









After the second iteration that missed the mark it dawned on me what to do to quickly zero in on the fit I was trying to achieve.

The first parts were done ‘blind’ by taking measurements of the existing components and model which will work to get the general shape but will struggle to get a really exact match. Once a printed component can be placed on the model there is something to provide solid reference points to work with. I simply sketched the shapes of the model details I was trying to conform to (the round cap of the hip and the oval area of the pipe connections) how they appeared out of alignment, then lock the sketch so it couldn’t move, and altered the 3D model to conform to the sketch… And I’ll be damned if it didn’t work as well as I could have hoped. Again, it’s a little technique that’s actually a large insight that will be very useful for many future projects where I’ll need to zero in on the fit of a curved and/or complex component. It was good to figure it out on something small like this so it can save me time and materials on larger projects. *Subtle glances over at his half assembled Knight and mutters, “Soon.” Under his breath*

Next up, I need to get the other two Dragoons cleaned up and assembled, so this project will go dark for a bit before returning once I’ve got the group closer to being ready for primer. Naturally, if I do anything else of note for the project along the way I’ll try to remember to document the process. I’m trying hard to force myself to photograph what I’m doing more often, as I keep finishing things and thinking I should have documented the process. 

Thanks as always for reading and following along. Ok, now I’m all worded out.

*Subtle shuffles off to find something to jam into his food hole*


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## Subtle Discord

Oooo... the very first casts are up! Mmmm... polyurethane resin. *Subtle rubs his hands together expectantly*

I'm still making moulds so I can't do a proper casting run yet, but I _had_ to get a few done to see how they're turning out. Everything is looking as good as I could have hoped for. Now let's see how all the parts come together, shall we?


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## Subtle Discord

Here we go, I'll just leave these right here. A few images to show a before-and-after, nice and large to showcase the surface quality and detail fidelity. But now, back to work.


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## Subtle Discord

Caughtby a fit of distracting inspiration, to accompany the Vehicle Pintle Weapons, I'm taking a quick diversion to crank out a redesign of the Vehicle Accessories I created.

This is the Searchlight that I'll be using as a base (the Searchlight part is removable), and from here I'm going to create a Loud Speaker (Aka: Dirge Caster), and a Radar/Comms dish for this base and a separateSmoke Launcher bit to complete the set; the kit will include a few Smoke Launchers and several bases with a selectionof the modular bits for the builder to choose during assembly. I decided to get briefly distracted by this redesign becauseI think it will pair well with the Vehicle Pintle Weapons kits (moulds are finished, casts are great, more on that kit soon...) and I'll be bundling the two together when they hit the shop.

As mentioned, the Pintle Weapons are done (after being delayed a few days after running out of rubber) and now I just need to get some proper photos taken of them. I'll share some images very soon. The casting masters for the Interitus Missile Launcher (Aka: Havoc Launcher) kits have finished 3D printing and mould making is ongoing. Expect to see much more poly resin over the next few updates followed by more new designs becoming reality.


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## Subtle Discord

The Loud Speaker. As those skilled in the art of making loudnoises once said, the volume nob goes to eleven because that's louder than ten. It's simple really.


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## Old Man78

The combi bolter mounted in the turret ring looks super sweet pal


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks! Now that I have all of the pieces of the puzzle together I can make almost anything, within reason. Expect to see all sorts of new things now that I'm getting things sorted out. Fun (if a bit _stressful_) times!


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## Subtle Discord

++++
+++++++++
++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++
+++
Motivation Subroutines ∙ Recalibrating…
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Information Exchange ∙ Update
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+++ Output Quota ∙ Inadequate +++ Incentive Reprimand ∙ Administered +++ +++ Praxis Protocols ∙ Decrypting… +++ +++ +++ Output Quota ∙ Adjusting Parameters… +++ 
++++
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Praxis Protocols ∙ Initialized
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Motivation Subroutines ∙ Updated
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Comm-Link ∙ Active
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Ok, so maybe four versions of the Interitus Missile Launcher redesign with four missile options was a bit ambitious to start, but I really wanted to make versions suited to Loyalist and Chaos aaand an alternate version with a lower profile, so four was what had to be. With the number of moulds required and the additional cure time the new rubber is adding, it’s taking longer than expected; driving home that I simply need more and/or larger pressure chambers sooner rather than later; all in due time. However, things are progressing and while there still a few moulds to go, the end of these are in sight… sorta’.









I’m happy to find that the components don’t need any special treatment before the mould making process. Past 3D prints I’ve worked with had a porous surface that would bind with the mould rubber if the parts weren’t treated.

So, thankfully this isn’t a problem with the components Solus is producing. I still need to remove and clean up the supports used during the printing process, but that’s not too bad, usually. While the printing resin is very strong and hard it’s also somewhat brittle and it’s prone to chipping if you don’t take care as you file and sand them away. If it happens it’s usually a toss-up between repairing the chip mark or just printing a replacement part. Beyond that, this is how parts turn out straight from the printer right into the RTV rubber. Fewer steps in the production process, It’s a good thing.









Moulds for the Launchers are still in the works, but the yolk is ready and looking great. Naturally, it’s magnetized for posing/swapping and they’ll be included in the kit.

The only catch with the yolk components is hidden within the current moulds. While they’re producing great parts I’m finding that it takes quite a bit of force to remove the parts from the moulds. The new rubber I’m using is very tough but I’m just not sure how many pulls I’ll be able to reliably get from them like this. The mixed outcome is somewhat good since I had done them as simple and straightforward as possible, so I can see now that I’m going to have to do them in a way that’ll take a bit more work, but that’s just what some components need if you’re going to make moulds in what I feel is the right way. The two-part moulds take more time and effort, but I just can’t ignore the superior results.

Besides that minor hiccup, these are looking as good as I could have hoped. The rest of the moulds will be finishing up over the next few days and fully assembled photographs of the kits will be sure to follow. After that, I’m going to be pulled by my ear, figuratively… mostly, but a bit literally, by my family to spend a week out of the city at the cottage. While a large part of me doesn’t want to leave the manufactorum as I’m finally gaining momentum again, I’m quite sure it’s in my best interest to relent and expose myself to some unpolluted atmosphere, some dirt, and a dose of solar radiation in order to maintain some semblance of an immune system. Naturally, I’ll be taking some hobby supplies and such along with me for the evenings, so I’ll keep some progress going of some sort, but I’m still not sure just what quite yet.


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## Subtle Discord

Well, I’m not going to get all the moulds done before I flee the city for the week (heading out early tomorrow), but I’m in the home stretch. I just need to get the second pair of missile components moulded for this set but that’s no problem now that I’ve done the first two and they’ve worked out perfectly.









Split like this to solve a production problem with rocket/missile ordinance loaded in tubes, it’s worked out nicely. However, the sprew is causingthe part to be a tiny bit out of alignment in this image.

When created something like this as a single part the mould will wear out rather quickly as the delicate rubber creating the missile detail tears away; a mould for a part like this would need to be replaced 4-5 times beside the moulds for the rest of the kit and that just didn’t make sense. This solution was to avoid that problem, and it solves the problem perfectly as the moulds for both of these parts will now wear about the same and in line with the rest of the moulds for the kit. But once I solved the problem it quickly became apparent that it also adds to the design in other ways. First. I made a few different missile types to add options for the builder. It’s also very easy to remove a few missiles and drill out the back plate to make the rack look like it’s launched a volley or two. People who prefer to do subassembly paint jobs might also want to paint the missiles first before inserting them in the front plate. A reasonably small change equals win, win, win, for the kit? Works for me!









From my mind, to the computer, to Servitor Solus, to reality. Since the old counts-as Havoc Launcher was one of the first kits that my studio started producing, it’s fitting that it should be one of the first to get a proper reboot.

A few moulds in the set will need a bit of tweaking the next time I make them, to let the parts pulling free easier, but that’s no problem and all part of the ever ongoing process. Everything assembles perfectly with just a _tiny bit_ of wiggle room to permit glue between seams and gaps and avoid any possible shrinkage causing fit issues. As with the Pintle Weapons, this is one part creating a new’ish kit, but also one part testing the waters to make sure more ambitious future designs should be possible. Not that I expected any problems but these first few kits were small enough to fail without wasting too many resources. Prototyping resin is expensive so naturally, I want to save mistakes and testing for the small stuff. Again, just look at those clean lines, sharp details, accurate fit, smooth surfaces, and know that I am completely giddy with anticipation to see just what I can do with _this_ at my disposal. Oh little Havoc launcher, you signify _so much *more.*_ *Subtle grins wickedly*

The Mk.4A Loyalist version is also finished and looking great, but I just don’t have time to assemble one right now. I still need to complete the moulds for the lower profile ‘B’ versions and the corresponding missile insert components so the ‘A’ kits will be in production a few days after I return to the studio and the ‘B’ kits a few days after that. Thanks as always to everyone past, present, and future, who are making it possible for me to do this seriously. I hope that I continue to show that I’m _very_ serious about producing some of the best models and miniatures available, and while the start-up is going a bit slow there are great things in The Works as the momentum continues to build over the coming weeks, months, and years.


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## Subtle Discord

+++
+++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++








+++ NeuralCongress∙ Initialized +++ Transmit∙ 'Dragoon Zero-Six tack Zero-One... Telemetryconfirmed. Hold for Engagement Protocol down-link.' +++ Receiving∙ 'Zero-Six tack Zero-One... Transmitconfirmed. Slowing locomotion to 3%. Awaiting Engagement Protocol down-link.' +++
++
++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
++++
+++++++++
+++


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## Subtle Discord




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## Subtle Discord

++++
+++++++++
++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++
+++++++
Information Exchange ∙ Update
++++++








+++ Compiling Data +++ Data Review ∙ Complete +++ Kastelan STC Evaluation ∙ Complete +++ Assessing Data… +++
++++++
+++
Preliminary Assessment ∙ Displaying…
+++++++
++
Optical Input Array ∙ Inferior ∙ Poor field-of-view hinders situational awareness during combat engagements.
+++
Onboard Ammunition Supply ∙ Inadequate ∙ Limited ammunition solution shortens effective ranged combat durations.
++++
Rate of Fire ∙ Average ∙ Improved projectile delivery solutions would significantly improve target saturation.
+
Close Combat Weapons ∙ Uninspired ∙ The Omnissiah demands improved combat weapons worth of this honoured chassis.
++++
+
+++
Iteration Subroutines ∙ Active
++++++
Altering STC ∙ Ongoing…
+++
+++
Improvement recommendations to follow. Standby…
++++++
++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++
++++
++++++
++


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## Subtle Discord

Arg! (Really? You’re going to start this with ‘Arg!’) – (Yes, yes I am.) Heh… ok, so I’m having a bit of a hard time formulating how to write this because I suspect that this update is going to be a bit scattered. So I guess I’ll just start at the beginning and go from there. While on a certain level I should be painting (the Dragoons will be getting a coat of primer soon enough) when I can find the time for personal projects, I just haven’t been feeling the groove for that and I’ve only had the itch to build. So I figured as long as it’s in my list I may as well not fight the flow and I turned my attention to the Kastelan robots I’ve been alluding to.

Up front I want to say just how impressed I am with how the Kastelan kits assemble, using small hidden locking pins and tabs to make it easy for those who want to build them as-is; but if you remove the pins and tabs the model becomes adjustable at the ankles, knees, and hips, providing a more ambitious builder the option to change the pose however they’d like. Even the toe caps on the feet have a simple rocking mechanism to provide a little bit of added flexibility to the pose of the feet. Whoever designed this kit had the right idea, that’s for sure.









When in doubt, mock it up. Sometimes there’s no alternative to just making a few quick tests using some paper and minimal materials.

I never liked the curved magazines on the Phosphor Blasters and always felt that they should be at least larger ammo drums. The way the Kastelan kit assembles, it’s all but begging to have the lower arms totally replaced and I think I’ll be doing that when I get to making alternative Close Combat Weapons. So I considered creating large ammo drums attached to the arms, but then I saw a conversion with a back-mounted ammo pack with a feed leading to the arm and it really seemed appropriate. In order to get the right length and an idea of what kind of curve would be the best starting point, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups with some arcs of paper. I’ve also always been underwhelmed with the barrels, so some bits of styrene tube quickly visualized some obvious barrel swaps that will help complete the updated look. 

Not only did the test with paper strips help me with the shape and curve of the ammo feeds, it also illustrated that the ammo feed will really want to swing back-and-forth depending on the position of the arm. Where I would have likely made the ammo belt feed straight out of the ammo box if I didn’t do these tests, this gave me the idea to make the attachment round so it could rotate. Not only will it be functional, I think it adds a good detail that will tie the components into the rest of the model. 

Happy with the shapes and forms I was getting after a few tries I figured it would be a good idea to test just how easily I could expect the materials I’ll be working with to bend and twist. No matter how I design these components the ammo feeds are going to need to be bent and shaped to fit the model.









I’m pleased to discover that the resin used by Servitor Solus is thermodynamic (Oooo… a $4 word) so there’s no problem heating it to deform it.

While I’m not sure I’ll be taking advantage of this property all that often in the future, it’s nice to know I have the option to 3D print something flat and heat-form it if that is useful. I also took the time to quickly do a test with the polyurethane resin that I use to cast. Resin has the same properties, letting you heat it, deform it, and when it cools it will hold the new shape, but I’d never actually done this deliberately with this resin so I just wanted to make sure it’ll play nice. I’ll be 3D printing these parts for my own use but when I do them as a kit for the shop in the future I just wanted to make sure there’d be no surprises. To anyone wondering, yes, I _will_ be producing all of the kits I create for my Mechanicus army project to be offered in the shop, but they’ll be happening sometime in the future when I’ve got a few other projects done first.









I wasn’t sure which I preferred, so I did versions for both of the barrel ideas; an over-under ‘two fingers’ pew-pew style, and a tri-barrel rotary spray-n-pray version.

Since neither is too elaborate it wasn’t too hard to do a 3D model for each idea so I can see how each one looks in the end. I’m very tempted to do another version of this idea that completely replaces the lower arms with more elaborate ‘death rays’ with large swags of cables to attach to the power plant, but for now, I think this is a solid upgrade that wasn’t too much work and should blend nicely with the model. I think it’ll go a long way to elevate the badass factor of the Kastelan a notch or two.

I do have plans to do Close Combat Weapons, but they’re going to be more elaborate and I don’t have any melee Kastelan Robots in my list right now, so I’ll return to do those in the future. I think what I want to try to create is three ‘buzz saw’ blades that have a snipping scissor action so they can emulate the original fists a little. A suggestion to incorporate Combustors into the weapons is also something I think I’ll add as well. But, as I said, unfortunately there just isn’t enough time to tackle them right now but expect to see them appear sometime in the future.

Well, that is after I do something about that damn head… “Oh, this won’t do. You’re such an _interesting_ monster. An _interesting_ monster requires an _interesting_ hair doo!” ~ Bugs Bunny









I respect how faithful they’ve tried to be in creating the Kastelan model; I’ve seen the original concept sketches so I understand why it looks how it does and why it stands out in the Mechanicus line.

When the Mechanicus line was first released, to me, the Kastelan Robots seemed a bit out-of-place and they didn’t mesh that well with the rest of the models. While their look has grown on me over time I still think they have several design elements that make them unique within the line. If someone thinks this is a good or bad thing is obviously subjective, but my point is that I didn’t think I could do anything that would dramatically change the look of the models, but I _could_ address a few choices that were made to be faithful to the original concept sketch, but which I think detract from the design. In this case, it’s gotta’ be the egg head with the derpy ‘viewport’ that provides no peripheral vision.

The concept on the right was my original plan when I started this, but the version on the left, that’s truer to the original, happened along the way; once I got the armoured shell done it was just too easy to add the smooth screen/glass to create an alternate version. I think both do a good job to provide the model with a unique look while getting rid of that niggling problem of no peripheral vision. Taking a few design cues from the Omnispex I’m quite pleased with how they both turned out and I can’t wait to see how they look on the Kastelan model. As with the components I made for the Dragoon/Strider kit, I won’t know how well they will fit the model until I have a chance to 3D print them; odds are good that they’ll need a bit of adjustment to perfect the fit.

Unfortunately, I haven’t had the time *Subtle’s eye twitches* to get Servitor Solus working on these yet… *Teeth clenched, Subtle’s face contorts horribly and then relaxes* … so these digital previews will have to do for now. Once I find the time *Eye twitch!*, I should have some prints to show in the near… *Looking as if he’s about sneeze, Subtle’s head suddenly _*explodes!*_ After a moment, his hands begin to blindly collect the pieces raining down and awkwardly attempting to reassemble them on his neck.*


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## Subtle Discord

I’m sorry up front if this turns into a bit of a ramble. I’ve been trying to work several things out and it’s got me thinking about lots of stuff at once, and rather than agonizing over ‘presentation’ I’m just going to try and get it all down. For those seriously interested in seeing The Dark Works grow I ask you to please read (or skip) to the end.

I really wanted to reply sooner, but the delay illustrates the catch-33 (a mutated evolution of a catch-22) that I’m now in and why I was saying in my last post that things might be a bit scattered. I’m trying to do several things on different fronts so it’s hard to talk about them all and keep them distinct. While it is a joke, some days I really do think my head is going to explode as ideas, goals, expectations, and plans keep bouncing around inside my skull. I _really_ enjoy writing these updates aiming to make them closer to small written articles than just a typical W.I.P. post and they’re very intentionally meant to be an extension of the studio. I’ll get to why I think this is important later, but the point I’m making here is that these updates _are_ work that takes away from my studio time and that’s really been pulling at me as I try to reconcile everything right now.

With regards to studio work, I’m progressing, but I keep underestimating the time things will take; I keep thinking that once I’ve got the moulds done I’m finally good-to-go for the new kit/s, and that’s true, _buuut_ only after I take a few kits and assemble them very cleanly, carefully take photos, tweak and edit the photos, set up the shop for the new product, and do a casting run for the kit/s. Yeah, just get the mould done and you’re good-to-go… _after_ all that other stuff. And that’s just the basics to take the prototype and get it into production so while I’m doing that I’m also trying to juggle everything else. I’ve said it before, I’m starting to completely sympathize with a Tech Priest who suddenly realizes that an extra arm might not be such a bad idea. Servitor Solus is truly a gift of the Omnissiah, but a servo-harness sure could come in handy right about now.

So, with only two hands and one brainpan to work with, time and multitasking are naturally my biggest barriers right now. However, I’ve been really pondering as I work and with the success of this first round of kits, I think it may be time to find my can opener and let some worms out. I’m making good progress but it’s not quite enough as I start to really push to gain momentum, and I need to accept the reality that I need some extra breathing room.









When I first devised the solution to split the missiles from the tube they were sitting in I had no idea if it would really work or be practical.









Now that I’ve got the proof-of-concept in my grubby fingers and in front of a camera, I think the results speak for themselves.

First up, a final look at the Interitus Missile Launchers to showcase the various missiles types and how they look in grey resin. These have turned out so well that I’m really looking forward to exploring the concept in future projects, large and small. You can expect to see a selection of ordinance to choose from in all future missile based weapons, but I might need to space them out a bit as making the moulds for the missile components does slow down the overall completion of the kit.

Sharp-eyed viewers might notice a few lines and/or some layering showing up in a few spots thanks to the strong lighting I’m using. Rest assured that while you can see them in the images because of the lighting they are so fine (20µ or less) that I’m all but positive they will disappear under a layer of primer and paint. I’m going to be priming my next round of Mechanicus models for painting soon so I’ll be sure to do a few of the new kits as well so I can get some paint on them and see how they look with some colour. However, as with everything, I’m rather strapped for time and it will happen when it can happen; the Dragoons are all but _begging_ to get some paint so it’s getting very hard to ignore them.









The moulds for the lower profile ‘B’ variant are also complete and they’re looking great but I’ve only just started to cast them.

The success of the fit and assembly is also encouraging. I’ve mentioned in the past that I want to create a Modular Assemble System in my kits providing unique assembly options, modular inserts, and ranges of kits that are designed to be compatible and interchangeable. This small series of kits illustrates the concept perfectly. It’s not just a single missile rack kit intended to primarily be a counts-as Havoc Launcher; choose the style, the loadout, how you assemble it, where you want to mount it, and magnets will always be included to aid in that flexibility further. Better miniatures for better builds.™

So, I’ve been slowly casting in the background, while I try to work on all the other facets of the studio, while also wanting to create some content, while… slowly… _going… *crazy.*_ Yup, I have to accept that I _need_ to get some crowdfunding support started. I’m happy with my results and I know that the momentum is starting but it’s not going to happen fast enough. I’m starting to bounce on the breaking even line but I need some proper positive flow if this is going to start taking off at any kind of serious pace and that’s what I need right now in order to cover expenses, invest in lots of the less glamorous things that the studio needs in the background, and ultimately expand outside of the basement, hire more staff, and/or find the right partner/s. I’ve hesitated because I know that it’s going to require me to split my attention even further as I figure out how to set it up and in turn since it will also require that I start actually marketing the studio on a larger scale than I am currently; I’m not that keen on the added task/s in the juggling act but reality doesn’t care about my feelings and it’s inevitable so why not now?

Thing is, most reasonably comparable crowdfunding drives I’ve been looking at for inspiration involve a small group of people and they can illustrate with images and/or 3D models what they have planned in order to create a series of funding goals. I’m not really in a position to do that; I have a huge list of future projects, and I like to think my work so far shows that I’m up to the task of making them real, but I don’t have the funds or the time to create the illustrations and/or 3D models to showcase a large body of kits that I want to create. I know I have a good body of work I can present to show I’m capable, but I’m worried about a lack of visual aids to really illustrate my ideas for kits going forward. Additionally, because I’m in complete control of the entire manufacturing process, unlike other studios I don’t really need a large block of money to outsource the manufacturing that is the core of the business; I need some extra capital flowing in to help with general month-to-month costs, strategic investment in equipment over time, and help in building up some reserve in preparation to really expand. Finally, how the heck do I keep the content creation as part of this? I love doing it and really want to expand/evolve/improve it over time, but quite frankly it _is_ work that I’m doing, that does create value (if the feedback is any indication), and right now I’m doing it for free. If I had my way I would gladly keep doing it completely for free but I can’t ignore the reality that it takes away from my very valuable studio time so I need to tie it in if I’m going make it work.

Still with me? Wow, really? I appreciate your putting up with my rambling attempts to describe some of what I’m trying to sort out. If I can write all of this, just imagine what it’s like inside my brain, because this is just a fraction of it all. And then there’s ‘the voices from the warp’ constantly giving me more ideas and plans and laughing/daring/taunting me all the time and well, it gets a bit noisy sometimes… errr… Where was I?

So, what I’m going to do is set up a Patreon account and another conventional crowdfunding source like GoFundMe. The GoFundMe will be for those who want to invest a larger single amount in exchange for future product. To keep things straightforward I think I’ll make it a flat % bonus on every dollar invested; for example, invest $30 and when the selection of kits you’re interested in is available receive $40 in product of your choice; I’m still contemplating just what % is generous without shooting myself in the foot. I’ll provide an itemized list of planned kits and work at them as I see fit providing previews and updates as often as I can manage for transparency sake. However, one of the rewards I will offer people who are interested in funding me at higher levels will be to pick what kit the studio will focus on; it will need to be on a first-come-first-serve basis but if someone is willing to offer a ‘tip’ and enough up front to buy several of an elaborate kit, then yes, The Dark Works would be happy to attend to your wargear needs more promptly.

For those who would like to support the studio through its content creation and might be interested in seeing it improve and evolve to video I’ll offer Patreon for support. For now, if I can get even a modest number of people to donate $1 a month I can better justify taking a day off to write up an article and if it gains enough momentum they can be more frequent, larger, and more involved; more in-depth how-to articles and additional fiction, for example. In the future, I’ll be expanding the studio outside of the basement but I don’t want to move the entire studio, only the casting equipment, mould library, and stock, which take up the most room, make the most noise, and create the most mess. With the extra room and all of the digital design equipment remaining I’ll turn the space into a proper set to shoot video on so I can elevate the content to the next level. I’ll be doing all of these processes anyhow, so I’m sure there are people who would like to get some insight by watching over my shoulder. I’d be happy to make tutorials and document the process for those who might be interested; mould making, casting, scratch building, painting, 3D modeling, and anything else people might like to see and hear me ramble on about.

Please keep in mind that this is a 3-5 year plan, so it’s not like I’m trying or expecting to be doing anything too ambitious for some time, but I need to set the goalposts somewhere as I work to build momentum. It’s like I’m putting together a jig-saw puzzle and I’ve got the outer edge done. I’ve got all the piece here, I just need to put them together and see what the picture looks like.

Ok, I think I’ve mused quite enough for one sitting, but I’d be happy to hear feedback, ideas, and any suggestions that might provide some perspective or any other insight. As I mentioned, with this will also arise a need for more exposure and marketing, so I’m happy to entertain input anyone might think would be helpful. Feel free to reply here, by PM, or by email via The Dark Works depending on how directly you’d like to talk. I’m still considering so much, I’m happy to get some perspective from outside of my self-made bubble.


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## Old Man78

Liking what you are doing with the robot ammo feeds, I have been experimenting myself (unsuccessfully) to model ammo feeds myself, as I want to do twin auto cannon dreadnoughts with impractical but cool roping ammo feeds. Kudos on your efforts


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## Kreuger

I wish you good fortune. I keep checking back to your store but the items I really dig are usually out of stock. I'd love to see you succeed; you make beautiful stuff!


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## Subtle Discord

Old Man78 said:


> Liking what you are doing with the robot ammo feeds, I have been experimenting myself (unsuccessfully) to model ammo feeds myself, as I want to do twin auto cannon dreadnoughts with impractical but cool roping ammo feeds. Kudos on your efforts


Thanks! As is typical for me it's a distracting side project that popped into my brain and wouldn't leave until I explored it some. I did manage to 3D print some components but I screwed up and forgot to mix the resin properly so they prints didn't turn out. I'll be showing them at some time in the future after I get it right.

Some people in other corners of the internet said they were considering and/or tired the same thing for Dreadnaughts and suggested that I consider something suited to them in the future. I want to create all manner of weapon systems for all sorts of vehicles, so this is something that's going to get added to the 'great list of ideas I wanna do'.



Kreuger said:


> I wish you good fortune. I keep checking back to your store but the items I really dig are usually out of stock. I'd love to see you succeed; you make beautiful stuff!


Thanks for the feedback and support. Slowly but surely I will be redesigning and restocking everything and adding lots of new stuff along the way. As I alluded to in my looooong post, right now I'm just running out of everything, time, materials, equipment capacity, etc., so I need to juggle and focus on one thing while others wait their turn. It can be frustrating and it's a big part that's forcing me to accept that I need to start to create some additional funding if I'm going to accelerate the process. That said, I'll always aim to keep communicating as I move along the path I'm taking, so stay tuned going forward and I'll do my best to keep everyone in the loop.


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## Kreuger

Sounds good, man. I'll keep checking back. 

I'm moving house soon, so I'm hoping to get back to minutes afterwards. Once your go fund me is launched.


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## Subtle Discord




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## Subtle Discord




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## Subtle Discord

+++ External Vox ∙ "The fault in your motivation impulses is obvious; you have far too much grey matter for your required duties. Unnecessary compulsions for self-preservation can easily be alleviated with the correct procedure." +++


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Completion Quotas∙On Target +++Magnetic Coupling Solution ∙ Successful +++ Coupling Assemblies∙ Complete +++ General Assembly∙ Ongoing..." +++

One little, two little, three little Onagers! Still unable to find the right mix of time and motivation to get more paint on plastic, I've stayed focused on prep and assembling of the final models that will make up my starting AdMech list. More ramblings n' stuff...soon'ish..


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## Subtle Discord

Grrr! Ok life, enough distractions! *sigh* With a plumbing problem mostly sorted out, for now, it’s time to get back on track; ah, the joys of home mortgage-ship – you don’t own it yet, but you gotta’ keep it all working. Fun fun! *mutters*

With home maintenance, a holiday weekend out of the city, work at the college, and other random distractions or delays, I’ve lost my focus a bit. However, I _do_ have my GoFundMe campaign finally set up for those who might be in a position to make an investment in the future of the studio, and I’ve also started posting images over on Pinterest for anyone who is more interested in the visuals of Legion Rising and The Dark Works without all the rambling. Both will be getting regular updates as I get settled back into a proper routine again.

It’s time to get out of this funk I’m finding myself in and start pushing outside of my comfort zones again, both creatively and with regards to exposure. I’ve got to get 3D modelling again and get on with marketing the studio more seriously. The next batch of kits is 90% 3D modelled but they’re going to be larger and consume more materials to produce so I’ve been a bit hesitant; 3D modelling can also be a bit of a trap for me, since I enjoy it so much it’s easy to get enthralled by it and spend too much time on projects that are before their time. Expect to see several new kits sooner rather than later and hopefully, the pace will continue to maintain and increase.

On the flip side, I’m getting ready to start contacting some hubs of the hobby in an effort to introduce myself and The Dark Works to a larger audience, with the plan being to tie it in with my next round of kits and models. Any help to spread the word, offer suggestions, input, or feedback would be most welcome. It’s one thing to post W.I.P. articles in smaller corners of the internet but now I’ve got to kick myself in the pants to get out and take this to the next level. I’m eagerly dreading this on some level, but I’ll get over it… I think. Not much choice, really.

Being an oh so tempting distraction that I’m better off without, for now, I’m going to put my personal projects on the back burner for the next while. Coming into the final stretch with building, the glimmer of a distant light at the end of the tunnel is starting to become visible. I’ll get back to rationing more time to my personal projects in a while, but for now here’s a little more progress on the Onager Spearhead Detachment for the list.









Holy tons of fiddly bits Batman! Cables, and ladders, and guardrails, oh my! Looks like we’ll need to build our way out!

Finally getting close to completing them, and yep, the Onager is a great model, but there’s a reason why the Mechanicus line looks so great, and it’s all the flippin’ bits-and-pieces that need to be dealt with! The bulk of the build is done, but there are still so many damn bits to actually get it properly finished I’m kinda’ glad I’m giving it a break for a bit.

One small tweak to the build so far that I’m particularly pleased with is adding the additional Heavy Stubber under the hull in the provided groove. It’ll need a bit of scratch building to connect it in a more complete way, but it’s all mostly hidden from sight so it’ll be a simple enough job. I’m also going to replace the reactor on the back, the convex detail on the weapons, and the armour plates on the legs with custom 3D printed bits similar to the Dragoons, but that’s another article for another day.

With the Kastelan ‘Bots cleaned up and ready for assembly these are the last of the models required for the first 1,850 center to the collection. Once these are done the final stretch really is to get paint on the second half(ish) of the army. I’ve got some close combat units waiting their turn and already have an urge to get back to the Knight/s to add some additional flexibility to the list, but I’m really looking forward to getting this main block done.









I managed to damage the rear hull plate on one of the Onagers and figured I’d roll with it and add some more superficial damage to the model.

I have a rule that when I drop something, I don’t roll my chair as I try to find the bit I just dropped. Odds are slim, but soon-or-later you _will_ roll over the component you just dropped as it lands in a blind spot behind the wheel of the chair. Sure enough, I was lax and managed to do just that, flattening half of the rivets and imprinting the cement floor texture into the part. The rivets I can replace, but it looks like this one is going to be an experiment; I had planned on adding some dings, dents, and scratches to the feet of all of the Onagers but since this happened I figured I’d rough this one up some more to see how it turns out.

I’m of two minds about it at this point. I’m worried that I’ve overdone it and I’m not going to like it once it’s painted. Or, that I’m going to like it too much when it’s finished and want to do more with the same treatment. In an attempt to get somewhat authentic looking minor dents and scratches I was very careful how I applied the damage. It’s a bit of a time-consuming process so I want to see if I can make it work before I subject other models to the process.









I knew I wanted custom decals for this project, but I wasn’t looking forward to doing all the layout, thanks to my hobby-OCD.

I can’t really completely finish the models until this step is done, so I had to get it over with soon-or-later. The small is 4x4mm for infantry, the medium is 6x6mm for light vehicles/’bots, and the large is 8x8mm for larger vehicles/’bots. I’m also working on a second sheet with the complete Atrum Laboris icon including the cog and text in various sizes and iterations for general use, but I’ve only just started work on that sheet. A somewhat tedious but necessary final step that will soon be done.

More updates coming from the studio soon, as I administer the rights of activation to Servitor Solus and get back to making the next round of new kits. Time to get over the anxiety and get things really going. I’ve got the skills, tools, and ideas, what the heck am I waiting for? Stay tuned…


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## Subtle Discord

The larger components are really cutting it close, but they fit!

The first test prints are done for these Tracks and Siege Ram and there are a few issues that I need to deal with. Adding the supports used during printing really is a bit of an art and I’m still perfecting the process; there are a few spots where the parts didn’t form quite right and naturally that’s no good. I’m also getting used to fit tolerances and just how small gaps can be in parts that are meant to fit together. The Siege Ram goes together nicely, but the Tracks are far too tight so they needed a bit of tweaking.

Beyond the minor issues, everything is looking great. As kits get larger I’ll need to get more creative with how I’ll split things up to fit the limits of Solus, but for now, that’s not going to be an issue. Once these kits are perfected, the first Armour kits are up next. I’ll get Servitor Solus back to work and then I’ll do another quick update with some images of the actual prints on the Rhino.


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## Subtle Discord

While there was a bit of deformation in a few spots on the Siege Ram it didn’t affect any of the final fit, which turned out perfectly.

Forever difficult to photograph, I think I’m starting to get it with this bright red resin. The more light you hit it with the better, giving the details a bit more contract. It’s still a rather washed out, but it helps some. In the near future, I’ll be switching using a lower cost grey resin for test prints and that should help considerably when it comes to photographing experiments and test prints.

I just need to change up how I do the supports on the Siege Ram but otherwise its good-to-go. Basically, some of the corners and a few edges were deformed because I didn’t make the supports dense enough. I’ve got the hang of it for the most part, but there’s obviously still a bit of trial-and-error for some things.









The Tracks had some issues with the fit of the links where the parts connect but they fit the model nicely and the Siege Ram cooperates too.

The links in the Tracks were way too tight (even managed to break one) and required lots of filing to get them to fit nicely. Since I modelled these before I had a chance to get any of my designs 3D printed, let along before I got Servitor Solus, it’s to be expected really. I’m mostly pleased with how well all of the parts fit on the Rhino chassis since that tells me that the 3D model that I used to build kits is accurate enough for the task. The upcoming Armour kits will be the next test for how accurate the base model is.

Since the Siege Ram doesn’t need to actually conform to the model like the tracks it’s much more straightforward to get the fit right and provide proper clearance. In this case, I’m glad to see how well Solus handled the thick slab that makes up the front ram. That bodes well for future slabs of armour and the like. They’ll gobble up a lot of resin to be printed but shouldn’t have any problems with accuracy.









The next test print of the tracks was able to catch up with this update so here’s a look at the final fit and finish of the two kits.

With a few tweaks to the design, the second run of the tracks was much better. Just look at that fit! Thank you, Solus! Now I just need to get the masters printed with the gates and sprue attached, ready for casting. Same goes for the Siege Ram which will be the first up to get sent off to Servitor Solus. As mentioned, once I get these masters printed properly expect to see some test prints for the first larger Armour kit for the Rhino/Predator, and perhaps a few weapon systems as a brief diversion after that, before turning my gaze towards the venerable Land Raider chassis. I’m going to try to push my modelling skills with the some of the Armour concepts, so stay tuned as I start to experiment with some warp-touched inspiration, once I’m sure of the fit with the starting concepts.


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## Subtle Discord

Hello, boys and girls
This is your old pal Stinky Wizzleteats
This is a song about a whale
No! This is a song about being happy!
That's right! It's the Happy Happy Joy Joy song!

Happy Happy Joy Joy
Happy Happy Joy Joy
Happy Happy Joy Joy Joy!

I don't think you're happy enough
That's right! I'll teach you to be happy!
I'll teach your grandmother to suck eggs!
Now, boys and girls, let's try it again

Happy Happy Joy Joy
Happy Happy Joy Joy
Happy Happy Joy Joy Joy!

If'n you ain't the granddaddy of all liars!
Think of the little critters of nature...
They don't know that they're ugly!
That's very funny!
A fly marrying a bumblebee!
I told you I'd shoot! But you didn't believe me!
Why didn't you believe me?

Happy Happy Joy Joy
Happy Happy Joy Joy
Happy Happy Happy Happy
Happy Happy Happy Happy
Happy Happy Joy Joy Joy!

I think I’ll just leave this right here. The first attempts at some larger components are finally finished, and they’re looking _goooood!_









_Top:_ The first print attempt met with some… difficulties. _Bottom:_ With improved fortune, the second try was much more successful and looks great on the Rhino.

While a gift from the Omnissiah, Servitor Solus still comes with some quirks and eccentricities in its machine spirit. Rush the process and the odds increase that problems will arise, but even if everything is prepared properly sometimes something unexpected will still happen. In this case, Solus just… stopped… mid-print for no reason that I could figure out, but a reset and restart got to the desired results. It seems I’ll need to be more diligent in my rights of preparation, operation, and maintenance with Solus in order to keep its spirit cooperative.

While it looks very good in this photo, this was a test print and it really illustrated some changes to the design that are required. I’ll post another update with more images and a longer ramble once I get more adjustments done and iterate a little more. The fit and finish are gorgeous, now it just needs a little more refinement.


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## Subtle Discord




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## Kreuger

Great progress! The new bits are looking very promising. That last Solidworks screen cap is diabolical!


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## Subtle Discord

Woohoo! Payday, with a big lump of back pay included. Time to stock up on resin and rubber in preparation for the next push. The prototypes and moulds are only going to get bigger, so I suspect I’ll be moving to the 5-gallon buckets of rubber in the near future. The producer of my Solus 3D printer has also starting to release the grey printing resin they’ve been working on that produced some amazing results in the tests that they’ve been showing. I can’t wait to get my hands on a few litres of that.

So, this wasn’t exactly what I had planned when I posted that last teaser screenshot. I was going to quickly follow up, but then, as I’m apt to do, I got pulled in to doing more modelling and trying something else. I knew I needed to wait a week to restock on rubber anyhow, so I’m not going to dwell on it. While a bit delayed I think I’m happy with what I’ve come up with while I dabbled; since they are larger components I wanted to take the opportunity to experiment a bit and showcase a some of the ideas and concepts I want to create going forward.

















In honour of Chaos being muse that started all of this, the Mk.1 is treated with a basic Chaos/Renegade style.

I want this first armour kit to address a shortcoming in the first set of armour I made for the Predator; the first set was made specifically for the Predator and it didn’t really suit the Rhino if it was stripped down. With this set I wanted it to work well on both the Rhino and the Predator. Breaking the armour plates up in this spaced style achieves that end while also creating reasonably sized components that my 3D printer can handle.

The first test prints of this design showed that I could simplify how I planned to attach the armour to the hull (Yay! Less fiddly bits!), and really illustrated that the doors on top of the Rhino were a missed opportunity. If the Predator gets armour for the sponsons and turret, the reasonably simple flat bits to add the doors to the Rhino version of this kit was simple enough. Besides, this just provides more room to model details. I’m tempted to complete the process and just do the side doors as well, but I think it actually might be too much since I like the ratio of original model to the amount of armour kit at this point.

















The Mk.2 offers clean lines and large open surfaces perfect for the murals, squad markings, unit numbers, and/or chapter symbols of an imperial collection.

Along with the Rhino Tracks and the Siege Ram shown earlier, these initial armour kits are complete and just need final details done before the casting masters will be printed. I still need to do the unglamorous task of labelling the sprues, a dull but naturally necessary part of the process. Ah, the joys of manufacturing. That said, these kits represent a good baseline of where I want to start, but now that I’ve got the base models there’s so much opportunity to explore…









The Mk.3A is the first of many explorations into warped, mutated, possessed, versions of the kits I’ll be producing. It takes a little more time than I expected, but I think the results are worth it.

In this case, I’ve been focusing on just similarly shaped spines as I get a better understanding of how I can deform surfaces, and even here I still need to do the other side. Expect to see future ideas with tentacles, teeth, eyes, appendages, and other gribbly bits plus I want to try my hand at some battle damage and corrosion/decay. Naturally, I also want to mix the elements for some variety and to let a builder get a few kits so they can mix-and-match some parts to keep things unique across several vehicles. Another idea that will go along with kits like this will be the inclusion of a strip of mutated/warped details in the same theme that can be attached to the base model in other areas to tie the look together.

This concept is still somewhat experimental, and I can see now that I’ll need to be careful not to create problems in the design that will make bubble trapping issues during casting; some of the spines might need to be shortened a bit and/or their curve toned down, just to be safe. I’m also tempted to break up all of the spines by adding a few tentacles, just to add some visual interest but I’m not totally sure. I like the consistent look, like some singular malevolent aggressive daemonic entity has entered the vehicle, but a little variety isn’t usually a bad thing either. Being a starting point and experimentation for future examples of mutation and possession, expect to see this concept return once I’ve got the starting kits in production. As I work out a process for creating each kind of detail it just becomes a matter of repeating the process to add similar details to future kits.









If Mk.1-3 are the Bad, Good, and Ugly, then I guess the Mk.4 could be considered the Elegant? For those who want something less utilitarian but not overtly Chaos.

While this pattern is really intended to be an alternative design that is suitable in an Imperial army, I can easily see this type of style being paired with Thousand Sons or Emperor’s Children and that’s the general idea. I’m working with lots of splines here and they’re a pain in the ass but they really do create wonderful flowing lines if you’re willing to take the time to tweak and adjust them. While I’m very pleased with the direction and results so far I’m still not sure if I’m completely happy with some spots so I’m sure there are still some changes that are going to happen to this concept but it’s a good start to show the feel that I’m aiming for.

In general, this will be how I want to start expanding the selection in the shop; creating a series of base kits and models, to begin with, and then adding unique and exotic variations to expand the line. How quickly and/or how many variations will depend on demand and the capacity of the studio, but something Chaos/Renegade, Imperial, mutated/possessed, and elegant/ornate, seems like a good place to start. With the convenience of digital creation as I expand on the concepts trying new ideas and 3D modelling techniques, I add to the options I have to go back and update a design with a new style. A lot of the key techniques will start with figuring out how I can best deform, distort, and otherwise mangle the base designs, but doing delicate precise line work comes with its own challenges as well I’m quickly discovering. It always comes down to adding the right amount of details to accentuate the look without cluttering it with too much.

Ok, enough rambling. Servitor Solus has a bunch of manufacturing to get on with, and I’ve got a bunch of cleanup and mould preparation to keep going. Updates with progress photos and first casts will be showing up soon. Thanks for lurking, reading and commenting if you’re so inclined.


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## Old Man78

Doing great work mate, will you be doing more "imperial" styled stuff


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Warning ∙ Nefarious Sub-routines Detected! +++ System Halt… Fail! +++ Unsanctioned STC Modification ∙ Initialized +++

So you want to defy gravity?


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## Subtle Discord

Damn, posting can be such a mixed blessing. I’m always hungry for input, but sometimes the internet gives input that just causes a feedback loop in my own overthinking. Now I’m rethinking the anti-grav Rhino concept. I’m not going to scrap it by any stretch, but I think I want to reconsider some elements now. Jeez, _thanks_ internet! With your forcing me to seek excellence. *gives a snooty face* Fine… *wanders off muttering* … I’ll make it even _better…_

But seriously, thanks for the comments and feedback. Like I always say, I can’t do every suggestion but it all gets considered and it all adds to the final results.









The casting masters are pretty much finished for the next round of kits, but a few small parts might need a reprint for quality control.

Two litres of the new high-resolution grey resin that the makers of Solus were working on is on the way in the next few weeks. It should arrive just in time, as I’m almost out of my first litre of the red resin I’ve been using up to this point. Getting Solus dialled in and learning how to get acceptable results consumed quite a bit of my first batch of printing resin, so I expect this next batch to go _much_ further towards making actual casting masters for production parts. It’s also going to be much easier to work with and photograph since the red simply washes all the detail out; sometimes it makes it possible to overlook minor flaws that I clean up in preparation for mould making, and that’s never good. 









Here’s a close up of the Predator all dressed up with nowhere to go, as it were. I’m very pleased with how well it’s all coming together.

I’ve quickly remembered that I don’t have an unmodified Predator in the studio; the original armour kit required changes to the turret and sponsons so it looks like I should get my hands on a new Predator sprew so I can showcase future kits properly. It’ll finally give me a reason to assemble and paint the current kit for a third predator in my Black Legion collection, so it’s not like it’s a bad thing. And with rumours of some more Chaos releases in the coming year, I guess the timing isn’t too bad really.

Mould making is ongoing so expect to start seeing the first casts for these kits showing up reasonably soon. Once I’m happy with the results of this first set of armour then I’ll get the Imperial friendly Mk.2 into production. With the feedback and input that came back when I showed the concept 3D models I’ve got a few ideas I want to try on the mutated Mk.3 concept, so that series is going back to the design table, but the Mk.4 should be easy enough to have followed up after the Mk.1 and Mk.2 are in production. Some other version of tracks will also start showing up once I’m happy with the results of this first set. I’m also itching to try some enclosed sponsons and perhaps some exotic weapons systems for the Predator chassis, but if I do that it’s very tempting to do a custom turret as well. I better be careful not to fall down the rabbit hole with the Rhino/Predator chassis, since I need to turn my attention to the Land Raider and Storm Raven… and Knights, don’t even get me started on Knights… so many wonderful opportunities! *shakes his head* Focus! All in due time.


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## Subtle Discord

Old Man78 said:


> Doing great work mate, will you be doing more "imperial" styled stuff


Absolutely! The plan is to start most kits with Imperial and Chaos/Renegade versions, and then expand the selections with other versions that will range in styles with one that should be suited to Imperial.


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## Subtle Discord




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## Subtle Discord




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## Subtle Discord




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## Subtle Discord

+++ Comm-Link ∙ Active +++ Authentication Protocols ∙ Accepted +++ Data Downlink ∙ Ongoing… +++ Operational Status Update ∙ Standby… +++


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## Subtle Discord

An update from the studio should follow shortly, but right now it’s mostly about casting up what’s ready to get things stocked up so I can concentrate on the next round. I’ll show some more of the new kits and how they’re turning out and hopefully by then I’ll have a new 3D model or two to go along with the update.

For now, several months of no painting finally made me snap over the holidays as CA 2018 finally pushed me over the edge. I didn’t even pick it up but my digital codex got updated with the new points and I had already planned on changing my current list from 1,850 to 2,000 so the more points the better! Since I’ve I’ve been collecting AdMech for several years building up to this project I’ve got some more units waiting in the wings and now a few of them can get pushed on to the main stage. Always a glutton for punishment, I’ve added another 20 bodies to the list with another unit of Vanguard with three Plasma Calivers and a unit of Infiltrators with Taser Goads and Flechette Blasters; I’ve got an idea… let's paint a Dominus, an Enginseer, the Vanguard, the Infiltrators, and a unit of Dragoons all at the same time! What a great idea! *Subtle’s nose begins to bleed profusely*









Hey look! It’s a Dominus (and his subsequent parts)… on a stick. I wonder what flavour he is? Silly question, naturally he’s [/i]Dominus[/i] flavor.

Errr… so yeah, I’ve got the preliminary colours and cleanup done and I’m just getting started on working up the highlights. Since they’re singular models I decided to focus on the Dominus and Enginseer first but I haven’t gotten as far with Mr. tall, dark, and hunched bio-mechanical monstrosity here. Eager to see a proper HQ finished to put out at the front of the current army progress, I can’t wait to get back to work on him this weekend.

















If I’m going to add 20 more bodies to the list I’m committed to getting them up to speed quickly so I can get my attention back to the big stompy stuff.

Mostly blocked in and cleaned up both of these squads are going to be getting their wash treatment very soon. Beyond the fact that they’re actually assembled and to this point this quickly (which for me is actually saying something) there’s not much to see here yet. Expect to see these squads get finished up before I move back to the bigger models. *Eyes the Onagers* Soon…









One of my favourite models in GW’s entire line, the act of building and painting a Dragoon/Ironstrider really does try to make you hate it.

If you thought it was fiddly to build, just wait, it’s _just_ as fiddly to paint! And despite it all, I want to build like… _nine_ more! Such an awesome model. Still far from finished, they’ve at least got a good start, and it’s only three of them, how hard can it be, really? *Eye twitch*









Here’s a close-up shot of some of the custom 3D printed components that I did for these Dragoons, for anyone who might be interested.

One layer of primer and one layer of Vallejo Magic Blue is all that’s on the parts in the above image. The large flat areas were sanded with a 600 grit soft sanding stick but none of the trim or lettering was sanded because it was just too hard to even try. Since they’re only 20 microns thick/tall any layering or stepping from the printing process that might be noticeable before paint all but vanish once it’s on. Simply marvellous. Solus, if you weren’t an electrified appliance filled with toxic chemicals I think I’d kiss you; but since that _is_ the case… fist bump? *Nods* Fist bump.

















To close some image of the over-the-top Enginseer who’s just about done his preliminary paint job. Mmmm… loving… the… _blue._

I still need to do a few more highlights here-and-there and a bit of cleanup in a few spots but for the most part, this little kit-bash can be called done for now. As with the rest at this point, there is still decals and weathering in the future but I want to do those as a cohesive process on most of the starting army at once. He was intended to be used for another purpose, and then 8th happened, so he’s a bit over equipped now that he’s back to being a lowly Enginseer again. He’s a 30 point pushover, but he’s a badass looking 30 point pushover. 

Ok, as always, thanks for looking, reading, and liking. Input, feedback, inquiries, and general hobby related ramblings are always welcome. Any overlooked comments warranting a reply will get one with my next update.


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Comm-Link ∙ Active +++ Project ∙ Kastelan 2.0 +++ Preliminary STC Alterations ∙ Complete +++ Data Downlink ∙ Ongoing… +++ Status Update ∙ Standby… +++


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## Subtle Discord

Along with painting and casting over the last few weeks, here's an update from other corners in The Dark.









In the spirit of the MK.IIB sponsons for the Land Raider I wanted to make armoured sponsons for the Predator as well.

I ran into a snag with the Predator armour plates once I got a new Predator kit in the studio, so that had me looking at the designs I was working on again… and then I got distracted by this idea… and just couldn’t stop once I got started. It pulled me away from the problems I was actually looking to fix, but this is the result so it’s not really a bad thing.









Always one who likes things to be functional if possible, so they do rotate 180 degrees.

I tried to do my take on a Las Cannon and Heavy Bolter that takes the elements that they have and tried to alter them to make them familiar but unique; I like to think I pulled it off. Naturally, they’ll be modular so the weapon systems can be swapped and that also opens the door to more exotic weapons systems in the future. Expect to see these pop up as a prototype at some point in the future.









This first iteration works to improve the Kastelan model (if I do say so myself) but it’s just not seamless enough.

It’s the right idea, but they just feel tacked on, because they are. So, while I wanted to keep these conversion bits simple I just accepted that it needed to be more elaborate than this.









The ammo drums (Boxes? Crates? Hoppers?) turned out nicely, but the ammo feeds met with some difficulties.

I modelled the ammo drums to emulate the shoulder/back mounted Phosphor Blaster. Their fit and scale seem perfect first try, so that’s one small step in the right direction.

The ammo feeds on the other hand… turned out to not be as flexible as I was hoping. They’re a bit thicker than the material I used to test how well the 3D prints can bend when heated, and I managed to make them far too long, so they broke as I tried to get the extreme bends. I almost pulled it off but even when heated very warm, hot even, it was almost there and then… *Snap!* I’ve since shortened them for the next try and the whole ordeal had me looking at the design completely differently.









The lower arms of the model attached in such a straightforward way it’ll but begging to have a complete component created.

Especially now that I’m much more confident in the abilities of Servitor Solus I’m not going to be intimidated by any kinds of curved surfaces.

So I modelled the ‘nub’ of the Kastelan arm as accurately as I could and then I created a collar around it; now I can make adjustments to that little collar that’s embedded at the start of the process if I want to tweak the fit at all. I’m getting quite good at achieving solid accurate fits but I always want to leave room for adjustments.

Then I wrap the overall shape of the object I want to create around that collar before I get to cutting out the form and creating the details with many cuts, extrusions, offsets, revolves, and mirrors. In this case, after many hours of all that you get the Rotary Heavy Phosphor Blaster…

















I know that I’m a little bias, but that looks pretty darn seamless to me. Yep, _that’s_ a Blaster that can do Protector Protocols.

I wanted to embed the barrels more into the arm but I didn’t want to take away from the look that they’re supposed to be air cooled and they were just too large to fit neatly. So as a compromise I shortened the length of the upper part of the arm and added the armour plate to offer some protection for the weapons (and something that could be used the swat and bash in a pinch) while still leaving them exposed for looks and quasi-functionality. 

I even think I managed to split it up in such a way that it should be easy enough to cast. At least there are several spots on surfaces that are hidden when it assembles that are good candidates for the main pouring gate and vents. The Kastelan bots and Onager walkers are the last units I’m working on in my current list so you can expect to see these given physical form in the very near future *Crosses fingers for the fit* and I think you can guess what you can expect to see not too much longer after that. The changes I’ll be doing for the Onager won’t be too elaborate but they’ll still be lots of fun to make and should really tie them in with the Dragoons I’m working on.









I really planned to paint last weekend but then I fell down the rabbit hole with this project and came out the other side with _this!_

Punchy, snippy, and choppy, all in one! While this is a small version for the Kastelan bots I fully intend to do larger version suited to other appropriate chassis. This interlocking counter-spinning blades with a scissor action has been an idea bubbling in the back of my brain for quite some time. I thought it would find its way into reality on a Knight (Yes, that _will_ happen, I promise) first but after how well the tiny little buzz blades turned out for the Dragoons I figured the idea could scale down easily enough. 









Wait, did he say scissor action? _YES!_ Now open up and say _”AAAWWWWW MY GAD I’M GETTING CHCH*CHOPPED* IN *HALF!!!* BLARAARRRGGH!” *Gurgle sputter squirt squirt squirt*_

I’m quite pleased with myself and how all this comes together. Again, I think the components have goods spots to attach casting vents and it’s all articulated so the builder has complete control over the pose of the weapon. Oh, and it looks frightening and utterly menacing; I can easily picture at least 5-or-6 ways, singularly and in tandem, that these could be used to _brutal_ effect quite suitable to a 40k battlefield.

I don’t even have any Fist Kastelan bots in my list but these turned out so well they might just force me to get a few boxes just so I can build some. To say I’m eager to see these new bits go from digital to physical would be an understatement but I’m going to hold off until I’m using Solus for more studio prints. These are still a personal project that will come together as a line of kits I’m going to add to the shop in the future once all of the kinks are worked out and the selection is large enough. Once I’ve got a few more Mechanicus components complete I should also have more of the current backlog behind me, but time will tell how it’ll all pan out.

As always, thanks for reading and following along. Comments, questions, considerations, and general hobby musings are always welcome. Now go build and/or paint something.


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## Subtle Discord

Damn the weakness of this vessel of organic flesh! Again, I find myself sympathizing with Mechanicus logic and the idea of replacing and/or enhancing the fragile bodily tissues that we are confined to. A moderate injury has tossed a crimp in my studio work the last few weeks and wouldn’t it be wonderful if I could just remove and replace the ‘defective’ hand with something useful? 

At the end of last year my household took in a new cat and he’s easily the largest feline we’ve ever owned. Oakley has had a bit of rough life so when he arrived he was rather aggressive but it’s nothing we haven’t dealt with over the years. A combination of firm-but-fair boundaries (using isolation as a primary punishment when required) and lots of unconditional affection will transform most aggressive animals into well-adjusted pets. However, it’s a process that takes time and it’s not perfect.

Long story short, after being with us for a few months and making great progress Oakley had a bit of a relapse and my attempts to coax him out of a room were met an unexpected attack and he gave me a deep bite on the outside edge of my hand near the wrist and he’s a big cat so he got me good; three of the fangs got nothing but soft fatty tissue but the fourth manage to get right in the tendon for the pinky finger and managed to hit a nerve and/or nick the tendon or something because damn it’s messed my hand up for several weeks. To add to the injury Grandpa’ Nurgle decided he’d add his blessings and naturally within a day it got infected and that even resisted the first round of antibiotics.

After two days of (mostly) solitary confinement and several more of giving him the cold shoulder Oakley and I are on good terms again. He really is a nice cat and I don’t hold it against him, he’s still adjusting and continues to mellow. But damn, for two weeks I lost my strength grip and could barely make a tight fist and I _still_ can’t twist anything without pain so it’s stopping me from casting since I can’t properly close the pressure chambers. You’d never think you use your pinky finger that much until its injured and you discover that it’s involved in lots of lifting and manipulating actions. Seriously cat, my hands are important to me, I _really_ don’t need them damaged.

However, I was spared my precision grip so I _was_ able to hold a paintbrush so that’s what I’ve been doing damn it! 

















∙ Finally, something looming dark and bio-mechanical to stand at the front of the small throng of troops I’ve got going.

I’m quite satisfied with how he’s turning out and I’m particularly happy with the glow effect I managed to pull off on the Eradication Ray. I’ve completely fallen in love with the Transparent Vallejo paints I picked up a while back for doing really light staining of surfaces perfect for quick OSL colour build up that’s nice and subtle. It works well thinned with water and I also like adding a bit to some GW glaze to create nice bright stain with a little more body.

He’s still not quite done this first preliminary paint job since now that he’s assembled I need to go and add some OSL effects in a few logical locations and there are still a few final details I want to finish and/or get right. The glass globe on top, in particular, is something that I’m still trying to pull off; I want it to look like it filled with swirling/roiling smoke or vapours rather than a liquid and it’s close but not quite there yet. Not to mention I’m still not sure of the best way to pull off glass effects so I’m nervous I’ll muck it up once I get it to a point I’m happy with. Oh well, it’s not like I can stop now.









∙ I had planned on getting to these later but I’m happy to add some more close combat bite to the list if GW is going to give me the points to work with.

Happy to paint something that isn’t a Vanguard I’ve had no problem getting down to work on the Infiltrators and they’re very close to finished their preliminary paint job in these images. Figuring they weren’t holding weapons across their torsos like other models I glued the arms in place for the painting and if I had to do it again I think I’d keep them separate and assemble after; like too many models in the AdMech line there’s just so many nooks-and-crannies at odd angles that minimizing what you have to deal with is a good thing. I still want to add a few electrical spark effects on the ends of the Taser Goads, but beyond that, these are pretty much done, for now.









∙ The original plan was to have two Plasma Caliver Vanguard squads but they were toned down to Arc Rifles to trim some points.

But now Plasma’s back on the menu and I can take another full squad of Calivers and even keep the original Arc Rifle squad in the list for more bodies to push into the midfield. I guess it’s a good thing my pile-of-shame was up to the task of quickly filling the gap GW was so kind to provide. While I’m happy to have more points to work with I’m glad I’m close to caught back up by getting these new additions finished. The end was in sight and then GW just had to go and add to the workload. It’s a good thing I’m so taken with the Mechanicus line so it’s not _too_ difficult to be forced to paint some more for a list.

Ok, it’ll be a few more days and then I’ll get back to casting to get some more stock back on the shelves, and then I’ll turn my focus on getting another round of new kits prepped for production. I still have a few more kits I need to get done for the Rhino and Predator before I get to work on the Land Raider and start reverse engineering the Storm Raven. And those who are keeping an eye on the Mechanicus bits, don’t worry, I’ll be turning my gaze to the Onager soon and then I want to start looking at the Armiger and Knight kits; once I’m at that point I’ll start considering how they’ll all come together to create the starting of a line for Mechanicus.

Thanks as always for reading. More to come. Stay tuned.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Random hobby tangent! More important projects and duties? Bah! I’ve got a random kit-bash idea that demands my attention!








∙ I wanted a few more Arc Rifles for some small Ranger squads but I ran out; however, being an unsanctioned and unconventional Forge World I devised a counts-as solution.

I wasn’t keen on the idea of buying more Arc Rifles as bits for a 4 point piece of wargear, so I think this is a good compromise and they even look pretty good, if I do say so myself. If there’s one thing I’ve got now that I’ve built an AdMech army, it’s a _ton_ of leftover arms and a bunch of Arc Pistols that had no other use. I’m going to see if I can bash an upgrade to their backpacks using some leftover Electro Priest bits to reinforce the concept.


----------



## Subtle Discord

++
+++++++++++
+++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++
+++
Motivation Subroutines ∙ Recalibrating…
+++++++
++++
Information Exchange ∙ Update
++++++
Asset Allocation Audit ∙ Complete
Resource Provision ∙ Updated
Operational Capacity ∙ Increased
+++++++++
++
Display Data-Log…
Atrum Laboris’ 3rd Artisan Legion ∙ Disciples of the First Word +++ 1st War Cohort +++ Elements of ∙ 1st, 2nd, & 3rd Triarii Maniples +++
+++++
Preliminary Production Queue ∙ Revised Status Update
+++++++
+++++++++
+ Void Shield Generator ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Rangers x10 (TA x2) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Caliver x3) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Caliver x3) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Arc x3) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Skitarii Vanguard x10 (Arc x3) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Sicarian Infiltrators x10 (FB + Goad x10) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Tech-Priest Dominus (E. Ray) ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Tech-Priest Enginseer ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Sydonian Dragoons x3 ∙ Initial Paintjob Complete
+ Tech-Priest Dominus (Volkite) ∙ Assembly and Prime Complete
+ Cybernetica Datasmith ∙ Assembly Ongoing…
+ Kastelan Robots x2 ∙ Assembly Ongoing…
+ Onager x3 ∙ Assembly Ongoing…
+ Awaiting Further Production Allocation…
++++
+++++++
Data Downlink… Complete
+++++
Displaying Data File ∙ Onscreen
+++
+++++++++

Sigh… do I ever _hate_ winter. Despite being a night person who stays up late most of the time, the diminished daylight, combined with the cold, usually drives me into such a funk; yeah I say up late and sleep in, but the sun setting at 5:30 in the evening? Nope, my psyche simply struggles with that. Injuring my hand sure didn’t help and despite it finally being healed I’m finding it difficult to get my motivation up and back at it in the studio. It’s only a matter of time now, but it’s frustrating to be dragging like this and it’s hard to put a finger on just why I’m procrastinating beyond the time of year and the weather.

However, if I’m going to be delinquent in some of my studio duties for a bit while I get some new wind in my sails, I figured the least I could do is be productive with painting my current projects. My armies are going to tie into the studio in the future, after all, and I suspect it won’t hurt my motivation to get out of the house and actually throwing some dice. But, that can only happen if I get the damn thing done, so it’s not really a bad thing if I permit myself to get distracted with some painting, is it? Yeah… *yeah!* _That’s_ my story and I’m sticking to it.









∙ Given the progress of getting the Troop elements are essentially done, I figured it was a good time to take a group photo.









∙ Since everything is magnetized for transportation and already attached to sheets of steel, it’s not like it was too hard to get them all together for the shot.

The newer units I’ve been working on lately still need one more round of small details and touch-ups; the odd missing highlight, a few spots that need a bit of OSL work, some final clean-up in a few places, and some dry-brushing to finish a few bases. But for this update, I’m calling them finished with their preliminary paintjob. With all this rank-and-file complete to this point creating the center of the force it’s hard to believe the end is really coming into sight. That’s not to say there aren’t still a few more things that will be added to this collection in the future, but for now, the first 2,000 points are actually in the home stretch, and then it’s only a matter of adding some select units to provide some options and variety.









∙ As with the other Vanguard squads I did a little kit-bashing to make the Alpha and wargear operator unique.









∙ The Vanguard advance; in robes of blue two-by-two. Try to hide; the Omnispex says they’ll _find_ you!

If GW is going to give the points, I’m happy to add another squad of Plasma toting Vanguard to the list. Combined with the original Plasma Vanguard and the new Infiltrators that were also recently added, I think I’ve got a nice blob of threat that I can teleport and infiltrate right where they can cause the most disruption to my future opponents.









∙ In Atrum Laboris, you don’t fry the chickens. The chickens are the ones that fry _you!_

















∙ A nice close-up image to show some of the custom components that are added to these Dragoons.

I’m very pleased with how all of the 3D printed bits turned out; not only do they add a bit of custom look to the models but they’re also small experiments that were successful. The armour plates are nice proof-of-concepts for parts that will have very subtle concave or convex surfaces, and the small scale details in the arms really showcase that Servitor Solus is more than up to the task of creating components with high enough quality that they blend right in once they’re painted. But now that I look at it, I think the Phosphor Serpenta could use a bit more black to break up the silver a bit.

Speaking of paint. While I still absolutely adore these models, they truly are a challenge and trial to paint. I’m glad that my scheme is straightforward because even this was much trickier than I was expecting. I really like to avoid handling miniatures that I’m painting until they’re done and have at least one layer of varnish on them. The sweat and oils from your hands are counterproductive, corners and edges wear away, and if you painting with a lot of metallics like I am here metal flecks will start shedding and getting everywhere. But this damn model is just legs, hoses, rails, and numerous nooks-and-crannies to deal with everywhere, you have little choice but to handle it like crazy as you deal with it all. I’m happy to have a nice solid unit of three now that they’re this far along, but they’ve got me looking forward to doing something that’s not so stroke inducing.

Ok. Thanks for looking. Thanks for reading. Comments, questions, or musings are always welcome. I have absolutely _no_ idea what’s going to be in my next update; maybe some more paint, maybe a build, maybe something digital, or maybe something printed. Stay tuned. The motivation has been waning a bit lately but it’s time it starts to wax once again.


----------



## Nordicus

Great work as always man. Very crisp and detailed work with a vibrant palette. As a grim dark painter myself, I could never make this work - Kudos!


----------



## Subtle Discord

Blargh! Ok, think I’m serious now. Omnissiah I humbly offer my frail body to your magnificence and ask that you upgrade this weak mortal flesh. *Sigh* Just as my hand was finally healing properly, which took longer than I was expecting, I came down with a nasty cold that made its way through my house. I thought I had avoided it, but noooo, Nurgle’s blessings for _everyone!_ And it’s one of those colds that comes in waves; you think your getting better until it comes back for round two. Ugh. Yep, just upgrade me and get it over with; start with my sinus, please, because right now I think the sense of smell is overrated and I’d give it up to stop the bouts of throbbing pain.

So, with a lack of physical energy and mental concentration, I’ve slowly chipped away at some things that only required me to ooze into a chair and poke at my mouse and keyboard. I really hope in the near future I can get over this and get back to the studio in a serious way. With GW’s recent activity I _need_ to get the backlog out of the way so I can dive into new things and get back to exploring my first muse, Chaos! Naturally, by extension that will mean more Imperial kits as well, but Chaos will always be my first calling and the call is becoming quite _loud_ with everything that GW has been up to. The voices from the warp are whispering again, and they are more numerous than ever before.









∙ With the starting Mechanicus army collection nearing completion I needed to buckle down and get the damn decals done, so I did.

As I suspected I might do, I’ve decided to change the squad marking scheme to fit a more official Mechanicus structure and so squads will be identified with an icon for their Manipul and a unit number. Most of the numbers I chose initially will migrate over while the symbols will consolidate under the new system. Doing this helped me make the decal sheets a bit more straightforward and let me add a bunch of extra icons that I can use of future projects, even if I’m not sure what they’re going to be right now. Not wanting to completely abandon all of the various icons and symbols I dug up in the ‘Insert Symbols’ function of Word I collected them together and added a bunch of Alchemical symbols that seemed fitting and made long strips so I can use them as accents; the font ‘Segoe UI Symbol’ has a great selection of odd symbols and icons if anyone is interested in where I found them.

I wasn’t sure If I wanted to do a second sheet but I figured it was better to just bite the bullet and do it so I can have lots of decals for future projects of various scales. I do plan on creating a Forge World themed table at some point, so they’ll be very useful for some of those structures. I also know that I’m going to be doing some larger models for the Mechanicus collection in the future *longingly glances over at his half-built knight* so I’m positive they’ll find a place in those projects as well.









∙ With the Kastelan bits done I turned my gaze to the Onager kit and created some custom bits with the design cues I’m trying to bring to this collection.

As with the Dragoons, I wanted to do my take on Lucius pattern armour with subtly curved flat surfaces and some crisp/hard lines opposed to the rounder look of the original components. I also added my signature bevelled edge to the trim detail to further tie it into the look of my other kits; it’s a detail that’s actually a holdover from building in styrene, but I still really like it as a way to add a bit of understated detail to some edges. While not as challenging as the Dragoon when it comes to achieving a proper fit, I’m still unsure if these are going to sit correctly on the model until I can get a few printed and see how they look. I think they’re really close but time will tell.

When I first saw the Neutron Laser I was a bit underwhelmed and felt it was a bit plain. Initially, I thought I would replace the whole barrel but over time it actually grew on me so I decided to upgrade the ‘cap’ that’s on the weapon housing. Not overly elaborate I think the extra gubbins do a good job of adding a bit of a deathray vibe to it, and I think it’ll suit the Eradication Beamer if/when I chose to use them. I have plans to build several more Onagers so I’m sure some will be armed with Beamers. Naturally, everything is magnetized so switching and swapping the weapons will never be a problem.

Finally, since the reactor detail on the back is such a simple swap I couldn’t help but update that component as well. It’s hard to tell from the angle of the screenshot but I’ve added some coils inside the housing. There’s not much room to work with so I couldn't be too elaborate. Besides, my real motivation was so I could add some personal branding to the part, so I did.

Kind of a thin update this time, to fit well with how thin I’ve been feeling. My head is not pounding like it was the last few nights, so I think I’m finally kicking this damn blessing. Seriously Grandpa’, I am invigorated from your gifts *cough cough* and thank you for your attention, but please feel free to move along now and spread your gifts to someone else! *sniff*


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++ Procrastination Sub-Routines ∙ Halt +++ Time Allocation ∙ Assessing… +++ … Adjusting Labour Schedule +++ Productivity Sub-Routines ∙ Initializing +++

Yeah, that’s going to work just fine for these counts-as Arc Rifles I bashed up. I think I want to add something on the top of the packs just to balance them a bit more, but I’m happy with the result so far. Overcharged pistols for extra range? Yeah, I think they communicate that and Rule of Cool makes up for any deficiencies.

Back to painting in the near future, but before that I need to get productive! Time to make some more ideas real. I better get used to the rhythmic sounds of Servitor Solus, because it’s going to be running night-and-day in the near future.

GW might tempt me with all that they are up to, and I’ve already broken down and made a small order, but I shall be strong and avert my attention for the time being as I get my butt in gear again. The weather is finally starting to shift, and I think my mood is starting to notice it; the first birds of spring have returned and it’s always a sound that reminds me that I made it through another winter. Urge to create… rising! Damn, I can’t wait to get a much better look at new Chaos kits so I can get a good feel for the design language GW is using on them now. I need more inspiration for how I’m doing to do warped and daemonic components and models. Ooo… it’s such a good time to be bad. *Grins manically with eye wide*


----------



## Subtle Discord

Two roads diverged in a galaxy, and I

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

_∙ (Mostly) Robert Frost_

…

Aww [*expletive deleted*] that! Here, time has no meaning! I have traveled *all* the roads! Glory to the Dark Pantheon undivided!

The re-_re-*re*-_building of a *Black Legion Warband*; and _this_ time, I *mean* it!









∙ A rare visage of the Warmaster will oversee this project. However, I think it is time to move him to a cooler colour pallet. Red is so _last_ millennium, darling… and, _no capes!_

In the immortal words of Barney, upon toasting his successful completion of astronaut training, _“



”_

I’m usually not attracted to limited edition products but as a long time Black Legion collector when Abaddon cracked Cadia I couldn’t help but pick up a copy of this signed print to commemorate the event; admittedly, it’s not my favourite rendition of Abaddon but those are the whims of the Warp and at least it can’t become obsolete like a limited edition rulebook. It was actually part of an Adeptus Mechanicus bundle which was an odd combination but I was collecting kits for my Adeptus Mechanicus project that I took up as a break from Chaos, biding my time waiting for GW to give up the goods of _this_ current release, so it was a good fit for me at the time with an eye to future plans. 

With the new Warmaster heralding a significant update to the core Chaos line, now is the time to revive my true muse and first passion, and soon, stop repressing the whispers from the Warp with binaric cants… or perhaps, the cants have been corrupted and subverting me all along. As GW keeps opening a Dark door ever wider it compels me to enter and consider the possibilities of a proper Chaos Space Marines and Dark Mechanicus project made real, and I think yes, it _is_ time.









∙ I’m also not usually a sucker for themed dice, but again, the lure of Chaos was too great for me with the Black Legion dice.

But first, as another plug for our sponsors and hobby addiction enablers, a brief review. Despite ordering some, I was skeptical and little worried that the gold might be dull and flat. I’m glad to discover that they are a nice proper rich gold colour and it has a nice swirling pearl-like lustre that has some depth. They’re even quite readable at a glance with the pips, points, skulls, and Horus Eye. Good job on these GW. I’ll also be taking a set and painting groups of five with different coloured faces for doing combined rolls, because hey, why not? 

So, with my Mechanicus project rather close to being complete I’ll still be putting the bulk of my hobby time towards getting that finished so I’ve got a table ready army on deck for when I want to actually throw some dice. However, the acquisition of the required personnel, wargear, and supplies has commenced, is ongoing, and I am eagerly awaiting my next dispatch. The only problem is, there’s too much choice! I can’t, for the life of me, settle on a well-rounded list to make as a core army, so I think for now I’m kinda’ liking this ‘pressure list’ that I came up with.

*Black Legion Double Battalion *– 1,994 points

*Battalion Detachment *– Bringers of Despair
Chaos Lord in Terminator Armour: Combi-Bolter, Power Axe – Foecleaver
Chaos Sorcerer in Terminator Armour: Combi-Bolter, Force Stave
Chaos Terminators x8: Combi-Bolter x4, Chain Axe x4, Combi-Plasma x3, Reaper Autocannon, Chainfist, Power Fist x3
Chaos Space Marines x5: Chainsword, Combi-Plasma, Reaper Chaincannon
Chaos Space Marines x5: Chainsword, Combi-Plasma, Reaper Chaincannon
Chaos Rhino Transport: Combi-Bolter x2, Havoc Launcher
Chaos Cultists x15

*Battalion Detachment *– Soulforged Pack
Lord Discordant: Mechatendrils, Chainglaive, Autocannon
Warpsmith: Mechatendrils, Power Axe, Meltagun, Flamer
Chaos Decimator: Siege Claw w. Hellflamer, Decimator Storm Laser
Kytan Ravager: Great Cleaver of Khorne, Kytan Gatling Cannon
Chaos Space Marines x5: Chainsword, Combi-Plasma, Reaper Chaincannon
Chaos Space Marines x5: Chainsword, Combi-Plasma, Reaper Chaincannon
Chaos Rhino Transport: Combi-Bolter x2, Havoc Launcher
Chaos Cultists x15: Autogun

If I drop the Decimator I can swap out the Chaos Lord for Abaddon without changing anything else, so the Warmaster is also a consideration in this list; I wish it could include an Apostle but I don’t want to drop the Warpsmith and/or shave wargear and/or bodies. Still not sure what Warlord Trait/s I’m going to take and if I want to add another relic. Double Battalions gives plenty of CP but it starts to add up when you want to take all the toys.

In classic Chaos form, the idea is to simply cram the entire list down my opponent’s throat. As the Cultists, Marines in Rhinos, Decimator, Kytan and Lord Discordant push into the midfield in the first turn, the Terminators can hopefully find an opening in turn two as the other army is trying to deal with all that. I especially like that the Soulforged Pack will mean that the Kytan needs to be all but killed or it can be boosted back to functional with the Daemonforge Overdrive stratagem. You need to knock off at least 3/4 of its wounds or the stratagem brings it right back to the top bracket. If a Kytan with the Decimator tagging along doesn’t distract, _nothing_ will. Now I gotta’ figure out how to get them across the field with few enough holes in them to get some work done. Each of the Lord Discordant, Decimator, and Kytan are dangerous in their own right so even if just one gets through… I _think_ it will work, but then…

… there’s those wonderful new Havocs, and I’ve always had a soft spot for Obliterators (and I ordered some Ambots to convert – mine will be Dark Mech, damn-it!) and the big bad guy himself Abaddon is begging for some field time (and I have _no choice_ but to paint his glorious model), and Raptors have suddenly become more interesting, and the Apostle is finally more useful, and I've got a formation of three Predators begging for a chance, and a wonderful Land Raider, and I’ve got things like a Sicaran, Spartan, and Fire Raptor sitting in the wings waiting their turn… Yeah, I’ve been getting ready for this for _years_, and now… I don’t know what collection of chaotic monstrosities I want to create first! It’s a good problem to have, don’t get me wrong, but it’s sure tempting my hobby butterfly syndrome to flare up and I don’t need _that_ right now. I will be resolute! Cultists and Marines first, and while I’m at that I can contemplate the rest in greater depth. The call of Chaos is gaining volume again, and this time there are more voices in the chorus than ever; chanting their siren song of dark prayers and I have little choice but to obey. They have so many wonderfully Dark ideas to share…

As always, comments, questions, general banter and ideas/input for list composition are always welcome. I didn’t even focus on Chaos during 7th edition so it’s been a while since I’ve been thinking about Chaos builds and the game is so different in 8th edition that it’s a bit daunting to get my bearings again. All things Chaos, Mechanicus, and Dark places in-between to arrive in the coming weeks, months, and years, from my personal hobby-bench and from the studio workbench so keep the comm-link active.


----------



## Old Man78

The road less travelled by ends in fiery purgation!


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ Within the vast armouries of the Warmaster the endless mundane wargear of the Legions must also be maintained with cut, grind, blow, weld, rivet, bolt, and screw; the Warsmith directs the primitive energies of fire, force, friction, and motive force, to the sacred task of administering the many rites of maintenance, placation, and repair in service to the Warmaster’s grand arsenal. One of many small-but-crucial cogs in the great war engine that is the Legion.

I have yet to build any of the other models in the Chaos Marine kit and some Havocs and Terminators just arrived today, so I’m still just taking stock of the kits. That said, I couldn’t help myself, and I dabbled away a little and came up with this personal take on a Warpsmith. I’ve never been a big fan of the ‘cloak of cables’ look that GW has been giving the Warpsmith models so I’m taking cues from the new Lord Discordant who as a better concept of what I’d prefer a Warpsmith to look like. I _do_ still want to add a _few_ more dangling cables and maybe another Mechatendril but nothing as over-the-top as the GW model/s.

So far, the level of detail in the new kits is simply amazing, as per GW’s track record the last several years. I’m going to hold of final judgement until I see just how everything assembles and how much room there is for creativity within the kits and throughout the rest of the release and between the larger line. So far I think the base models are really nice and despite any gripes about bits selection or design choices I think they look _very_ promising. I’m looking forward to dabbling with them more, but I’m trying to force myself to keep it to a slow burn lest I get overwhelmed by too much temptation too quickly. I’ve walked the long road for quite some time now, I know not to rush things… but it can be _sooo temping_ when the lure is _this_ sweet. Truly, I am lost to the whims of Chaos…


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ I started the first Warsmith before the new Havocs were in my grubby hands. Once I saw the models an upgrade was in order.

He _is_ a 4W H.Q. Character after all so the larger starting model simply suites him better. I still used a 32mm base to keep him in line with other Power Armour H.Q. models; to me the 40mm bases of the Havocs just seems like an excuse for the new models to go back somewhat to their old lunging poses that are less desirable in my opinion. Since I’m changing the direction of pose I needed to add a small shim of plastic to the foot to alter the tilt of the model. It has a bit of a lean/hunch to compliment the intended bits and it needed to change in order to get the new Meltagun arm to cooperate better with the model. Speaking of the Meltagun arm…

… I am _not_ a fan of the… unique… solution that GW chose for the wrist connections. The little key tabs, while a little useful in some of the by-the-book assemblies, really seem like an unnecessary complexity that will need to be dealt with all the time during the very common kit-bash of swapping weapons between arms. It’s the K.I.S.S. principle of design; Keep It Simple, Stupid. Beyond this minor quibble and a few other small things (oh look, GW’s up to the bits selection shenanigans, again) there’s a lot to like about the new Chaos kits and it’s going to be fun to see just what concoctions can be mixed up.

I like the details in some of the other Havoc models a bit more for a Warsmith build but this one has the pose that best suited the outstretched ‘one-handed Meltagun shot’ bash I had come up with initially and I wanted to keep that. I guess this just means that I need to make _another_ Warsmith (or two) using one of my preferred models. Being the lowest cost Chaos H.Q., I don’t see this as a problem. The entire kit is gorgeous and the extra bulk of the models does a good job of conveying a larger-than-average Character model that would have more Wounds than a rank-and-file Troop. Why _not_ find an excuse (or many) to use the models outside of Havoc squads?









∙ I’ve still got freedom in the left arm and I’m having a hard time picking the stance I want the weapon in. I like them both for different reasons.

It’s a little thing, but it’s always this point where a bash is reaching the final tweaks that can be the most trying _and somehow_ the most rewarding. I like the more casual pose that’s more static and has a, ‘*Sigh* Now I’m going to shoot you’ feel to it, but with the weapon in a more ready posture it gives a ‘_First_, I’m going to shoot you with this, then…” I’m in the same boat with the head, which I switched to being bare with the small horn; I like it, but I’m worried it’s looking a bit small/sunken in the armour – maybe a thin shim to raise it a tiny bit? But a full helmet deals with it much more readily. Ah well, a few more tweaks and perhaps another gubbins or two and this little diversion will be ready for some primer.









∙ As another little nibble at the Chaos cookie I’ve assembled the first ten Marines for the new-and-improved Warband. Mmm… _new_ Chaos… *Nibble*

I still wish the wastes were ‘ball joints’ or at least if the torsos could be swapped without it being a major chore, even if there was limited flexibility in the range-of-motion. But with ten wonderful unique models to use as a base bashing and converting up lots of variety in a collection won’t be _that_ hard. I know I’m not the only one who was drawn to Chaos for the opportunity to kit-bash and convert models so I’m not intimidated and more encouraged by the quality of the ever-expanding selection of bits-and-pieces to choose from to create with going forward.

Damn, this gunna’ geet guuuud! Keep the comm-link active.


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## Subtle Discord

Mallory: “Krieger!”
Krieger: “Jazz hands!!”
Mallory: “I should have never taken him to see The Wiz.”
Lana: “The Broadway show or the movie?”










Mallory: *Sighs* “Both.”









∙ Jazz hands indeed. After two attempts and a bunch of tweaking, I think I’m finally happy with these Marine hands.

A tiny component that is critical to any handheld bits that I want to produce going forward I avoided doing a set of hands because I knew they would be fiddly. Given the scale, I guess I could have done them cruder to save time and at first, I was going to ignore the detail on the inside since they’ll be used mostly for gripping objects, but then I figured it would be more futureproof if I did it right the first time.









∙ Fully articulated and detailed, now the studio has a Marine hand 3D model that can do a lot of lifting in all manner of future kits. (Pun intended)








∙ These are the two main poses I need right now but I have complete freedom to use them however I need in the future.

The curved palm with the corrugated texture was particularly tricky to get right and was one of the main details that took a few tries to get to a point I was happy with. But I’m glad I stuck to it because now I can use these freely in the future to do any kind of open hand bits that might suit my needs. _Now_ I need to get to work and create some wargear to actually put _in_ the hand. First up, Combi-weapons and Chain Axes… and perhaps something of a daemonic persuasion, or several.









∙ A bunch of one-armed Champions in my Marine squads can attest to my need for Combi-weapons, that’s for sure.

Oh yeah, and I can’t forget the Reaper Chaincannons. Now that I’ve got some squads done and played ‘which marine best fits the heavy weapon bit?’ (hint: some marines are a _much_ better fit than others) I’ve got a few Heavy Bolters ready for an upgrade. I figured since the Heavy Bolter feeds a single line of larger shells into the weapon I’ll do the barrel bits as a larger caliber tri-barreled solution so it better suits the weapon while also providing a unique look. It will be a very simple bit to create so I expect to make a few different versions and I’m tempted to use it as an opportunity to create a few dangling details and/or swags of chain that I can make modular so they can be used in other models for details.

Still juggling a lot so studio progress is still sluggish but as I build a library of key modular bits like this humble hand another entry is ticked off of a long list of assets that will make future projects easier. Now I can make a wide range of bits and never need worry about dealing with the hand. Small steps leading up to something much bigger. Beyond continuing to expand my current line of smaller bits and kits I’m considering what my next larger project will be, so don’t be surprised if something unexpected comes out of The Dark.


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## Subtle Discord

∙ Mild insomnia fueled late night (early morning) teaser image because I'm so pleased with the results so far; first up, the Combi-Flamer. 

Still need to do a final few finishing touches with the Flamer but it's almost done. I've also got the Melta attachment in the final polish stage and a few different magazine/ammo-drum styles but I still need to get the Plasma and second Bolter worked out. Keep your comm-link active, more coming soon.


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## Kreuger

Looking good as always, sir!

I enjoyed your analysis of the new chaos models. I haven't picked any up yet because of the *cough* backlog I'm still working through. I thought they looked great but you discussed some of my concerns, such as the restriction of poses and bits. 

I find the interesting trade off is completeness of the sculptor's vision against customizability. In early monopose metal figures, they had far more character, down to the minute details compared to later multipart models. That's even true when thinking of the new computer designed guys. They have more character than the one-size fits all models. 

I'm hopeful that the new guys are a balance between those extremes. 

And hey, that's why there's a market for your style of add-ons!


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## Subtle Discord

∙ Larger update coming soon, but first another late-night-early-morning teaser screenshot. ‘Say hello to my little friend!’


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## Kreuger

Those look good! 

I think the combi-plasma looks like it needs another shroud vent on either side on the top. 

I dig the combi-bolter box mag too. Nice touch.


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## Subtle Discord

More on the combi weapons (still need to make Chaos versions) and feedback to the always welcome suggestions and input in the near future, but first, I couldn’t help but take care of the reasonably straightforward Heavy-Bolter-to-Chaincannon barrel upgrade bits.









∙ To suit the larger caliber of the Heavy Bolter shells I did these rotary barrels larger and lowered the count from the normal six.

Not only do they better suit the Heavy Bolter they’re going to attach to in my opinion, but it also makes them unique and distinct from the official Chaincannon. Since they’re a Chaos only bit I was able to forego doing them ‘clean’ and got down to creating them with Chaos design elements. While they’re not parts that require really complex fits, as with any preliminary 3D build, I won’t have any idea how good the final fit will be until I can get a few printed.

I keep procrastinating reviving Solus because getting parts ready for print takes another round of preparation and I’ve been too distracted with 3D modeling to get it over with. As always, the current juggle of tasks forces me to split my attention, but it won’t be long now before I can preview some of the several 3D models I’ve been showing over the last few weeks. The finishing touches are _almost_ done for the next batch of prints so stay tuned.


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## Subtle Discord

Kreuger said:


> Looking good as always, sir!
> 
> I enjoyed your analysis of the new chaos models. I haven't picked any up yet because of the *cough* backlog I'm still working through. I thought they looked great but you discussed some of my concerns, such as the restriction of poses and bits.
> 
> I find the interesting trade off is completeness of the sculptor's vision against customizability. In early monopose metal figures, they had far more character, down to the minute details compared to later multipart models. That's even true when thinking of the new computer designed guys. They have more character than the one-size fits all models.
> 
> I'm hopeful that the new guys are a balance between those extremes.
> 
> And hey, that's why there's a market for your style of add-ons!


While I wish the new kits from GW had more modularity, options in posing, and interchangeability of components, I'm willing to accept the current range of kits and the design philosophy that's going into them. I still think they could accommodate modularity a bit more, but if they're going to offer the amazing quality and a large enough variety in the large squad kits it helps to compensate for the more static posing options. With the detail level where it is, combined with them being made from styrene so they're easy to convert, I'm willing to make it work. After building over 50 Skitarii using the same base ten models, the group of them still don't feel repetitive thanks to them having 10 unique models and lots of detail to help distract. Is there still some frustrating repetition? Yeah, but it _mostly_ gets lost in the variety and quality of the newer kits from GW.

I get why they've done this; they can genuinely make more interesting poses and tighter details in models if they take away some of the flexibility in the assembly. It's a compromise and a calculated balancing act that right now I think they're pulling off because of the aforementioned quality. None of this is any excuse for GW shenanigans of odd omissions and/or limitations in the bits selections in their kits. While I do see the irony in that it does make more room for people like me to fill the gaps, but I really wish GW would not be quite so overt about it, like with the new Chaincannon, which there should have been two of in the new Havoc kit, even if it meant removing one of the other weapons, like say... a Heavy Bolter, perhaps?


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## Subtle Discord

I am the hobby butterfly!

*Subtle leaps from his chair and jumps through a window wearing a home-made butterfly costume… and it does not end well…*









∙ In the midst of writing my next update with no room for this image, so I figured it would make a good sneak peek. Despite a minor fit issue project ‘Kastelan 2.0’ is commencing _nicely._

Just look at the subtle curves of the Blaster. *Subtle drools a little bit* It does take a tiny bit of surfacing with some 600 grit soft sanding sticks, but then it's just buttery smooth. Larger update coming shortly. Keep comm-link active.


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## Subtle Discord

Ok, since I’ve procrastinated on writing a proper update now I’ve got comments and feedback from several perspectives and different corners of the interwebs I think it’s better to just ramble a bit about these kits and how they related to my design philosophy. Making quality bits is a balancing act between a few factors and sometimes they force a designer into certain corners.

As a first tangent, it’s been mentioned/questioned a few times over the years if I’ve considered using Shapeways to produce some of my designs. While it can be tempting I won’t being going that route for several reasons. The simple primary factor is control; I’ve spent several years working out the kinks in the entire process and part of what I want to bring to my product offering is that it’s _all_ done in-studio to a very discerning standard. _That_ is the business I want to grow into something larger and I want to keep complete control of the creative, production, and ultimately profit flow.

As an extension of that idea I really don’t like the Polyjet 3D printing process that is used by Shapeways for their high resolution prints. I’ve commented on it in the past since I’ve worked with it a few times (once with Shapeways and several other times as well), and it really is an amazing 3D printing technology but not for the one-off quality I want at this scale. Some people don’t mind it, and if you’re a hobbyist then that’s a fine call to make, but I’m someone who wants to produce at small-to-medium scale and I want the product to be the _best_ quality I can achieve. It really is the extra small scale that just pushes Polyjet to its limits if you demand results like I’m after. The results I was getting from professionally printed components using Polyjet was specifically why I took the time and effort to research and requisition Servitor Solus and even now that I’ve got the high resolution 3D printing I needed to achieve the results I’m aiming for I still spend quite a bit of time tweaking and adjusting my designs to assemble cleanly and fit correctly. Even with the tools and equipment in-house it can take several tries to get parts to fit the model or even each other correctly, so no, I don’t think Shapeways is a good solution for producing most of the kits I’ll be creating. Whatever could be saved in lead times would require too much loss in quality and control to make it worth the trade.









∙ A perfect example how a rather simple component can require a few test prints to ensure the fit is correct. These barrels can be used on different models but they’re specifically designed to fit the new Havoc models.

I’ve used digital calipers to measure the Heavy Bolter in the Havoc kit and tried to model it as precisely as I can manage, and while I’m sure it’s very close I won’t know if I’m completely correct until I’ve got the bits in hand. (Very soon) I model parts with tolerances of 0.1mm to 0.05mm so it doesn’t take much for something to be off and make a fit too tight, loose, misaligned, etc.. Naturally, trying to match straight lines is reasonably easy but as soon as curves are involved it becomes harder; there’s little choice but to model it as close as possible and then make adjustments after the first test prints. In this case, even the little peep-sight-like detail on the front of the Heavy Bolter isn’t complex but I can only make an educated guess at the radius of the curve; same goes for the depth of the notches on the sides at the base which are close but I’m not sure if they’re perfect. They’re just too tricky to measure precisely on the model.









∙ The new combi-weapon bits had to be a balance of several things and they’re a good example to showcase the design thinking I try to employ.

It basically comes down to balancing the practical needs of the design, personal creativity, and the fictional niche I’m trying to fill. Practical issues can be things the end builder will deal with like magnetization and/or how a kit assembles, but it can also be something to accommodate the manufacturing or 3D printing process and that says mostly on the studio side, where, if I design it correctly you don’t know that I made a clever part that casts really well, but you should appreciate the lack of mould lines and bubbles. My personal creativity is just having the idea as a starting point, but it’s also a key consideration in that I need to create a unique and interesting enough design that suits the Warhammer universe but is something new that I’ve created from my mind; I don’t want to directly copy or mimic things made by GW, I want to make original versions of my own ideas that blend right in with the official kits. And that leads neatly into the idea of the niche that I’m aiming to fill and the design language that GW uses for similar objects/wargear or just in the Warhammer universe in general; my professors in college would have referred to it as finding the ‘sympathetic details’ that you aim to draw into a new design, creating something new but with a notable linage.









∙ GW has the side-by-side Combi all buttoned up so I figured I’d go with an over-under configuration; not only do I like the look I came up with but the slimmer profile is also very nice.

I always try to incorporate what I call pseudo-plausibility™ into my designs, which is an intentionally silly verbose way of saying that I try to design details on my models with consideration of how the object would operate and work as a blend of the 40k universe and real world considerations. Yes, these are completely fictional objects that many times are based on science-fantasy but that doesn’t mean vents, grills, hoses, pipes, hydraulics, buttons, switches, fasteners, seamlines, and a million other minor details can’t be given a bit of common sense consideration. That said, I have to be careful not to take it too far or I can start to obsess over trivial details (something I’m far too apt to do, but I’m getting much better) and waste time on them, and/or I can overdetail something in an effort to get it _just right_ and really authentic. When you’re modeling something that’s 50x larger on your computer screen then it will be in real life and it’s meant to be a _model_ and _not_ 100% authentic, it’s very easy to create details that either struggle to be created during the 3D print process or are so small and delicate that they’re lost at the tiny scale they’re produced at. I want them sci-fi, but not _too_ sci-fi, and I want them realistic, but not _too_ realistic. When it doubt, I lean toward making it blend with the Warhammer aesthetic and chuck realism in the corner for later.









∙ Oh, you knew it was going to be magnetized, right? From a practical perspective it was simply easier to incorporate the magnet in the vertical orientation.

I’m still not sure if one pair of the 1.65x1.65mm magnets used here will be enough attraction for my liking, but it’s not hard to add a second set of magnet holes if I want to make it stronger. The hand also might get one more round of tweaking; it’s almost there but even after altering the thumb a bit, I think it needs a little more work to get a better match how the thumb is on an official model. Nothing major and likely not even a big deal considering how small it is and where it’s located. For the test prints, the backs of the hands will also sty flat since that’s what best suits most of the models that are in the GW line, but it wouldn’t be too hard to add a ball-joint or pin feature that could easily be removed if unwanted, so that doesn’t seem out there. If/when I start making more elaborate assemblies I will always try to use ball joints and articulated hinges wherever it makes sense to provide more posing options.

I’m also leaving the left hand off for the first test prints; I know that one-handed versions will likely be very popular but I’m sure some people will want a proper two-handed version. I suspect it’s the one-handed setup and the tall profile that makes these models seem a bit more like pistols, but I can assure you that the lower Bolter is 18mm long which is a _tiny_ bit longer than a Bolter in the new Chaos Marine kit. The larger ammo drums and wider zig-zag feed magazines that hold more shells might also add to the bulk a bit making them seem a bit more pistol like. Whatever is going on, it’s just an optical illusion that I’m sure will vanish once they’re in context and not floating in a white void.









∙ “Missed it… by that much.” ~ Maxwell Smart – Yeah, I was close but the fit is just a bit too tight and it doesn’t quite want to close. Close, only counts, horseshoes, hand grenades, yadda yadda… 

So the fit isn’t quite correct here, but it would even be worse in a cast since it’ll shrink more ever-so-slightly. I’ll need to loosen this up considerably to make sure it’s not a problem after all the effort is made to mould and cast it. It’s all good, that’s what test prints are for. Right now I’m still testing the limits of Servitor Solus’ so I’m mostly happy with how well the subtle curves of these parts turned out. A few spots benefited from a light sanding with 600 grit soft sanding stick but that’s hardly a problem when the results are so good. Despite it not quite closing around the arm I couldn’t ask for a better fit and finish.









∙ Solving the minor fit issue will be easy enough but the ammo feed is going to be the final hurdle to get past to complete this kit.

The final tweaks to the head have it looking very nice and printing without any issues, and despite the fit on the arm it still looks pretty good in these photos. The ammo feed is the final piece to this little puzzle that’s going to need to wait until I can make a mould and cast the part in polyurethane. As I’ve discovered, the 3D printed resin can be bent after heating but it still remains rather brittle and prone to breaking very easily as its being shaped.

I do wish I could make the arm just a _bit_ slimmer but the three barrels made to mimic the gauge of the shoulder mounted cannon just doesn’t make that possible. However, in turn the three barrels do give a proper reason why the arms are as thick as they end up being. They’re no larger in width than the original arms so I guess it’s a more effective use of the space. I suspect they’ll grow on me more when they’re not bright red-orange and painted to blend with the model. Even some primer would go a long way.









∙ Long overdue because of various delays and some changes to the design, the armour plates for the Predator are being prepped for mould making.

I simplified the design a bit from the original Predator armour I created so now the armour plates on the weapon systems are interchangeable between each weapon or the stowage/ammo/battery on the turret. It makes them a bit less customized to each mounting location but it really helps to trim down on the number of parts for the kit so it’ll be more straightforward to produce and it suites the lighter nature of this design, I feel.

Once these are casting I’ll be making the clean Mk.2 version for Imperial builders. Now that all the kinks are worked out with regard to fit it will be much more straightforward to get future variations complete and into production. I may also take the time to do the more elegant Mk.4 version because I’d like to see something with some more flowing lines and subtle details, but I’ve been getting a lot of request to get the Land Raider kits back in stock. I will be restocking the current ‘Raider kits one more time but I’m eager to get working on new kits using the new equipment in the studio. I’m already starting the 3Dmodeling of the Land Raider and I’ll also be doing the Sicaran along with it, so expect to see some updates for those in the somewhat near future.

Servitor Solus will be quite busy for the foreseeable future, so expect to see some prints of these combi-weapons in the next few days along with further updates on the Mechanicus components since I still have the other Kastelan arms to do and the Onager bits as well. Stay tuned. Spring is here, and the longer days are bring an upswing in the energy and while I might be too busy to write as often as I’d like, there’s lots in The Works.


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## Subtle Discord

With the Rituals of Support completed once again the appropriate platitudes of activation were transmitted to Servitor Solus and the diligent device was set once more to work. The bright red polymer resin was running low so some final prints including a mix of practical and personal (for now) projects seemed like a fitting end to the first litre that has brought my ideas to this point so far.









∙ When it comes to the Onager components, I guess two out of three isn’t bad. While the results are mostly good, some flaws and mistakes are larger than others.

I completely spaced out somehow, managing to model the reactor upside-down. Um yeah, oops. It’s not hard to move the locking key and fix this blatant mistake, but I can’t believe I even did it in the first place. So silly. It paints a picture in my mind of a servitor performing maintenance, only to be asked by an overseer why they are installing the unit inverted, followed by a loud screech of binaric obscenities as they begin to unscrew restraining bolts to correct it. Even a diligent servant of the Omnissiah can have a bad day.

Other than that overt issue there are a few distorted spots which I didn’t support correctly and, as expected, the fit on the armour panels isn’t quite accurate yet since they’re only an educated guess for this print. Par for the course, these will be simple enough to sort out. I also want to make the gizmo I devised for the weapon system just a tiny bit larger radius so I can have an excuse to make the cog in the center just a bit larger. In the fiction, Lucius forge world is said to have unique Onagers and Ironstriders so I think these bits help take the models in that direction. 









∙ I took the opportunity to do my first test prints of the new Combi-weapons I’m working on and the results are _mostly_ positive.

If you look closely you can see a bit of distortion on the magazine and ammo drum. On a bit like these, the 90-degree orientation of these details makes them huge overhangs when I print them in the preferred orientation, pointing straight up. Supports are the usual method of dealing with overhands but these are large ones right in the middle of the part and anything that can be done to avoid and/or minimize supports is preferable since they _always_ leave a defect that needs to be cleaned from the print. Supports are a necessary evil that I need to deal with but always try to avoid. In this case, I tried to tilt the print but it wasn’t enough to avoid pictured distortion.

Other than that, that prints are very hopeful but also illustrate another thing I’m still trying to get the right sense of and that’s the scale of some of the detailing. When I’m 3D modelling the component is so large it’s very easy to create details that are just a bit too small, subtle, or delicate, to really work well when it’s created at real-world scale. There’s a reason why some of the detailing on good models is a bit exaggerated and emphasized when you’re in really close because at the small scale they’re finally created at it’s very easy for the properly scaled details to be completely ‘washed out’. In particular, I like to add bevels and subtle curves in some places and they look great on the screen, but then the bit is printed and the carefully added details are simply lost at the final scale. The hand is also something I suspected would need more work and the thumb in particular needs to be adjusted so it’s a bit more pronounced.

So there’s lost to like with these first prints, but I think another round of tweaking the 3D models will do the designs proper justice. Good design really is often about iteration. Rarely does an idea or concept come into reality perfectly formed and a few iterations is usually to be expected.









∙ While the fit isn’t quite right this component looks great from the top; unfortunately, the bottom shows that Solus is struggling to avoid surface flaws on that side.

At some point in the future I might 3D model more complete weapons, but right now the recent Chaos release offers a few niches that are just begging to be filled with straightforward solutions like this one. Modelling a full Chaincannon, doing it justice, making it blend in aesthetically, making it original, and ensuring it would fit at least reasonably well with current kits, well that’s a whole lot of work that I’m not up to right now. I’m also itching to get working on many other larger projects so getting too distracted with smaller bits and kits isn’t what I want to be doing right now. A little distraction is to be expected and entertained, but I can’t let it get too carried away… for now…

Again, in order to avoid adding support to all sides of the object, I tilted it when I printed it and only added supports to the bottom. It _mostly_ worked, but while some cleanup of support touchpoints is unavoidable the angle ended up causing unexpected surface issues; some shapes at peculiar angles are simply prone to this issue, at least, with is resin. More on that in a moment. So, while I can accept some cleanup, there’s just too much going on here to justify the effort and I’ll need to find a way to further improve the outcome.









∙ As one final act of bulk productivity the last of this resin was used to create a complete set of casting masters for the ‘clean’ Mk.2 version of the Ferratis Rhino/Predator Armour.

With all the kinks for this armour kit work out I wanted to get the more Loyalist-centric Mk.2 version completed. I will return to the Rhino/Predator chassis at some point in the future but for right now I’m happy to have a replacement for the current out-of-production Chaos Predator armour as well as a Loyalist counterpart as a first expansion of the selection. I’m also keen on doing the ‘elegant’ version I showed a while back and I have some interesting ideas on how to tackle mutated and warped details, but those are really elements that can be applied to a wide range of future plans so it’s nothing really exclusive to this kit in particular.









∙ It served the studio well, helping me to _being_ to understand the quirks of Servitor Solus’ machine spirit, but the red Proto resin is _dead!_ Long live the new grey Art resin!

It’s a different colour, it smells distinctly different (not a _better_ smell, but uniquely different and at least less strong/pungent), it has a different thicker viscosity, requires different printer settings, and produces parts with different physical characteristics. Oh, and from everything I’ve seen so far with my limited testing… it’s just better. After a single test print, I seemed to get the settings rather close and got good results that were just a bit too delicate and fragile. So I made some adjustments and gave Solus a proper task to test this new resin…









∙ … and oh my… those are some amazingly good results that, dare I say it, appear to be even _better_ than what was being produced with the red Proto resin.

Now, I suspect part of it is just the fact that the new resin is a nice neutral grey and it’s easier to see good contrast on the parts and they’re _much_ more photogenic, but honestly, something about the surface quality and/or fidelity of the parts just seems to be improved. Even if it _is_ a trick of the colour when it comes to the appearance there seems to be an improvement in the print quality and it’s less prone to the surface flaws like those that were a problem on the bottle of the Chaincannon barrels pictured above. I’ll need to do more prints to know for sure but I’m hoping I’m correct since it could be more reliabel prints in lots of circumstances. The parts are also even stronger and less brittle than the red resin which helps during cleanup and ensure the casting masters will have a good long lifespan. Nothing wrong with that at all.

Unfortunately, it does require a somewhat different setup for the supports for correct printing so any of my older print files that I set up for use with the original red resin won’t be compatible with this new grey resin. Not a huge issue since I don’t have plans to reprint many/most of them for any reason, and not a big enough reason for me to look back because the new Art resin really seems to be worth the effort of adjusting to its unique properties.

















∙ Case-and-point, while the red Proto resin did an admirable job creating these Kastelan components the parts made with the new grey Art resin just seems to be that little bit improved.

Again, maybe it’s just the clean grey colour and added contrast, but I don’t know, time will tell. In fact, the colour of the new resin is _so_ close to the grey that I tint my casting polyurethane I’m going to need to be careful not to mix the masters up with casts. In the previous image you can make out a few telltale stubborn spots where the layering of the 3D printing process is unavoidable but the 20-micron layer height makes them very easy to sand away and the rest of the surfaces are freakishly smooth and refined.

I’m not complaining by any stretch, but I’m _again_ impressed by Solus even after being impressed several times in the past. I’m still perfecting the best practices I need to learn in order to avoid printing problems without too much trial-and-error which wastes expensive materials, but I’m only running into small problems that require a bit of tweaking to resolve before I get exactly what I was hoping for. Each project completed opens the door wider to bigger and more ambitious projects as I continue to learn and gain confidence. This bodes very well for future projects, to be sure.

Now, if only, running the business side of the studio with books, numbers, equipment, materials, and stock, was so compelling and didn’t daunt me so much. Ok momentum, time to continue building so I can deal with that next. This is too good a start not to get somewhere. Let’s see what I can make of all this growing potential, shall we?


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## Subtle Discord

∙ I’m sorry that I keep posting similar images of the Kastelan ‘bots, but the new 3D printing resin combined with this design really have me smitten over the last few days.

I took a bit of the time to make a ball-joint for the shoulder mounted Phosphor Blaster. The clunky rectangular one was a strange aspect of the kit that seemed really lazy and it was really easy to replace. After a bit more testing and the feedback I’ve also modeled three lengths/radius ammo feeds for the arm Blasters to help facilitate the fit. I tried once again to heat-bend one of the 3D prints and it simply won’t have anything to do with it, bending at first, but inevitably snapping. Once I’ve got the moulds made I’m sure it’ll get sorted out with polyurethane casts. This kit was more involved but I’m so pleased with the results and the further proof-of-concept for a few things I was testing here (like the ammo feeds) that I’m glad I took the time to work the kinks out and take the design all the way to replacing the whole arm.

Ok, bed ways is right ways. Stay tuned for further updates in the somewhat near future.


----------



## Old Man78

Love your work, personally I think the guns on the robots are a little too big but the sculpts themselves are great


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ Redesigned and fresh from Servitor Solus the new Chaincannon components are _almost_ ready… as long as I don’t make silly mistakes. But damn, do I love this new resin!

In the top-right corner, you can see where I overlooked adding supports to some of the points on the four-barrel design. Simple enough to fix, but also an obvious mistake I should do better to avoid. Beyond that little oversight, they’re looking wonderful. No, I need to figure out where I’m going to attach the vent and how I’ll make the mould. It’s one thing to get a good test print, but then I need a proper production copy so I can make moulds. Soon, very soon.

They’re rather straightforward bits but they actually taught me a new 3D modelling trick I can use to make parts that Servitor Solus will have an easier time reproducing. In certain spots where there might be an edge with a 90° overhang that would require a support to print properly (and supports are a necessary evil that I’m always trying to minimize) if I can draft the surface (draft = add a slight tilt/slope/angle) from 10° to 15° degrees Solus can produce it without any need of a support. In many cases, the added draft is so subtle and/or just looks like an intended part of the design that there’s no reason not to do it beyond the fact that it does take a bit more work to add it in some spots.

I also tried to print the updated Combi-weapons along with these, but of the 8 parts I tried to print only 2 turned out, and they’re both the base Bolters so none of the actual Combi-weapons turned out. So I removed the Chaincannon barrels from the layout and tried again… and after 2+ hours of printing, I discovered that _all_ of the parts failed to print. So, I’m discovering that while the new grey Art resin produces excellent results it’s just a bit more temperamental to get it to cooperate. If the print takes proper hold it works wonderfully but those first few critical layers seem to have a bit of a technique to ensure they take properly and I’m still zeroing in on it.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Old Man78 said:


> Love your work, personally I think the guns on the robots are a little too big but the sculpts themselves are great


Thanks. My first plan was to try and slim/shrink down the arms because the base kit has lower-arms that seem far too bulky, especially with just the single barrel and small ammo magazine. But, I also wanted to mimic the Phosphor Blaster barrel of the shoulder mounted weapon to better tie it into the rest of the model, and to do it faithfully in the tri-barrel configuration I wanted, it forced the arm to be this large. After trying to slim them down as much as I could (and shortening them up too) I just couldn't shave any more off without thinning some of the walls too much; they're _slightly_ leaner than the originals, but nothing dramatic. Ultimately, considering the original model, I'm just embracing it that they're designed with heavy primal ape-like forearms that hang low. I think it's a fair tradeoff for the overall improvement it makes to the kit, in my opinion.


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ I’m still having a few issues printing these bits but here’s the Linked Bolter and Melta looking really solid.

Unfortunately, the Flamer simply didn’t print. When it does work (and the success ratio is high) the results are so good that I’m certain that I just need to tweak the print setting and/or be selective where in the build area I place small objects like this. It’s hard to tell if it’s the new resin or the fact that these parts are quite small so they only have a small profile for each layer when they’re printing. Or maybe it’s a bit of both.









∙ Not exactly the best angle to showcase the model as a whole (he looks a little stiff here) here’s a shot of the Plasma in-situ.

There are a few minor issues I want to give one final tweak to and I want to experiment a bit more with placement and orientation when I’m printing; not all spots on the printing bed are equal and the angle/orientation that an object is printed at can have a surprisingly large impact on the final outcome. I think the results speak to the fact that I’ve got the hang of it, but now I want to make sure I’m getting the _best_ possible results. They’re small bits with some fiddly details, so they’re a good candidate for me to really understand how to work with this new resin.

*Subtle squeals like a schoolgirl*

Holy crap, I _made_ *that*! I can hold it in my grubby little fingers and actually see and touch an idea made solid. UV light and freaking goo combined with computers and a dash of hobby-OCD. Science is _amazing!!_

Sorry, I’m having one of my… moments.


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++ Compiling Data +++ Kastelan STC Alteration ∙ Ongoing… +++ Displaying Iteration ∙ 3.3 +++ Reviewing Hard Data… +++
+++++++
+++
Revised Assessment ∙ Displaying…
++
+++++
Optical Input Array ∙ Improved ∙ Visum Pattern Wide-Angle Broad-Spectrum Optical Unit ∙ Integrated 
+++++++
Onboard Ammunition Supply ∙ Enlarged ∙ Increased Ammunition Capacity ∙ 800%
++++
Rate of Fire ∙ Enhanced ∙ Tria’Telum Pattern Rotary Blaster Installed ∙ Fire Rate Increase ∙ 200%
+++++
Close Combat Weapons ∙ Iteration Subroutines ∙ Ongoing…
++++++++
+++
Correlating Data Points ∙ Ongoing…
+++++
Generating Authority Request ∙ Active Combat Testing 
++++++
+++++++++








∙ As hoped, casting the ammo feeds in polyurethane and creating three with different radii/radiuses solved the fit issues.

They _are_ a bit fiddly to bend into the exact final position (I still want to tweak one of them a bit more) but polyurethane is a very forgiving thermodynamic plastic; not only can it twist and bend significantly if you warm it in boiling hot water, it also returns to its original shape very easily if you want to reset an effort.

My son was fascinated by the long piece of polyurethane sprew I was using as a test strip, repeatedly bending and twisting it into the most extreme shapes he could manage and then dunking it to watch it relax back to the original shape. He did it so much more than I would have it really illustrated to me just how much you can torture poly resin and it really holds up well. I’ve learned to take my hard data where I can get it. 

















∙ I was forced to partially complete the build to make the model stable enough to facilitate the fitting of the ammo feeds.

I had planned on doing a set of the close combat arms to see how they’d turn out but my current AdMech list doesn’t have them and this assembly was just being too frustrating without locking some parts in place. I guess I have no choice now but to get some more Kastelan ‘bots to make this squad a bit bigger and to add another for a bit of punch. Pun intended.

For anyone who might be wondering if/when these kits will be making their way to the shop, yes I _do_ plan on putting the Mechanicus components I’ve created in the shop at some point in the future. However, I want to put some other projects to bed first and I also want to complete one-or-two more Mechanicus builds, with the Onager being the obvious target, but there might be more some inspiration to add to that. The upcoming AdMech transport/tank kit has me itching to get my grubby hands on it to see what potential might lay in the kit.

Oh, and don’t you worry Chaos, I could never forget about you. First the Marines, then the Mechanicus. Yes, you will have your fill, I promise.

But _those_ are *Darker* ideas, forming other stories, for future updates…


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ Juggle model man! Juggle! You got that done? Well here’s three more things you gotta’ do! Hahahah! Juggle model man! Juggle!

Required to constantly keep swapping hats, I’m working on a new banner that I can use on the shop that can give a really focused condensed idea of the studio philosophy with a layout that can accommodate a range of photos. I’m hoping that if I can standardize some of the stuff like this I can make it a bit easier to add updated images to give more feedback on what the studio is working on. Being a simple setup I don’t get a lot of control over the shop site so for now I’m trying to do my best with the template as-is.

Ah well, more updates coming soon. I have a distinct urge to start painting the Kastelan ‘bots despite all the things I need to do. I’ve been sacrificing my weekends that I was forcing myself to take in an effort to keep my head screwed on straight and the lack of progress on personal projects has me getting quite itchy. The Mechanicus are _so close_ to being done, I can’t help but get back finishing them, before getting lured and lost in Darker places…


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ Something(s) wicked this way comes… soon‘ish… I hope… *Sigh* _Never_ enough time. Update brain-dump incoming.


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ Forgive me Omnissiah, for I have succumb to distraction and it has lead me to… _innovate._ I suspect that I will be unable to stop. *Harsh binaric screeching!*

Wall-o-text with some more images coming soon, I promise. Trying to lay the ground work for some bigger projects (work-in-progress pictured above being the first of some much more ambitious ideas) and I’ve got a brain full of thoughts that I’m still working to sort out into some kind of coherent ramble.


----------



## Subtle Discord

*Studio Correspondence Message*: I apologize to anyone reading this who may have contacted the studio over the last few months but have not received a reply. I try to keep up but sometimes I get swamped and/or distracted with things inside and outside of the studio and it becomes very easy to procrastinate on replying. I will be sending out a form letter to reply to the bulk of the emails and work to reply directly where it makes sense.

This ties into what I want to talk about in more depth, but I’ve got several things bouncing around in my brain so I figured it would be best to split them up. Right now, let’s have a look at what I’ve been working on for upcoming kits and soon I’ll discuss how one thing led to another and a fit of distraction made future studio projects started to take form, somewhat unexpectedly.









∙ With initial work for the Rhino done the venerable Land Raider chassis is next in line.

Now, the Land Raider is an _old_ GW kit to say the least and it comes with a few issues with fit and dimensions; some parts simply don’t fit together quite right and there are numerous places where details should be symmetrical, and they aren’t, or should align, and they don’t. The best I can do is try to average out any differences and remember to provide a bit of tolerance to the fit of components I create. As with the Rhino chassis, once I’ve made some things that can give some feedback on the fit I can dial in the 3D model for future projects.









∙ It’s been sitting on my workbench begging me to give it some attention so I felt compelled to 3D model the Sicaran.

Someone had mentioned a while back that it might be challenging to make add-on kits for the Sicaran and I can understand why since RTV mould cast resin models can have some tolerances that might not be completely uniform for one cast to the next. After dealing with all sorts of strange issues with the Land Raider I figured ‘how bad could it be?’ and got to work. I quickly discovered that it’s true and it surprising just how much so. Many of the details are completely different from one spot and/or side to the other where they should be symmetrical or evenly spaced. Even the tracks start at the exact same spot at the back of the model but by the time they reach the front they’re slightly different lengths; this may have been done on purpose to make them look slightly different, but it’s just one of _many_ odd details and off measurements. As with the Land Raider, but even more-so, I’ve simply tried to average out any of the worst examples of this.

It’s still a gorgeous model and most issues are small enough that you can’t really tell by looking at it, but it makes it very tricky to create anything with a tight fit over any of the complex geometry. I really just want to give the model some spaced armour plates, a siege ram style ‘dozer blade, and some tread plates that can be attached to the tracks, so I know I can do those without too much hassle. Anything more complex and it’ll be too much of a headache I suspect. Initially I wasn’t going to model the turret but once I got the rest of the model done I got lured in to the challenge of trying to do it; I’m not sure it I’ll make custom weapons for the Sicaran but at least now it won’t be hard to get started if I do.









∙ Next up, a ‘Raven that’s been sitting in the back of a dark a drawer for far too long.

If it’s not already apparent, I really enjoy the 3D modelling process so it’s not going to take much arm-twisting for me to get to work on the Storm Raven. Over the years it’s been requested more than a few times, so now that I’ve got the opportunity it seems like as good a time as any to get the preliminary 3D modelling done. I’ve finally got the means to really do it right and get the complex fits I’ll need to make add-ons for the ‘Raven.









∙ What’s that? You were expecting more than these little images of the tank model I previewed before? Looks like you’ll need to keep your comm-link active.

Working on modelling so many GW kits I couldn’t help but develop a nasty itch to create something that’s been lurking in the back of my brain for years. It also ties in well with some of the other things I’m trying to sort out and talk about, so I figured it would be a good hook for my next update. Everyone likes images after all, especially if it’s (likely) going to be accompanied with a wall-o-text.

This is definitely a project for the future, but I really want to show some of the more ambitious ideas I’ve got for future larger kits. Add-ons are just where I want to start but I _really_ do want to create much larger and more ambitious complete kits and I want to start showing off what I have in mind so people can see the images I have in my mind, even if I can’t make them quite yet….

But, before I get to rambling too soon, I’ll stop here, and keep it for next time.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Well then, just as I was about to get my crap together and start talking about my new plans for the studio, life the universe and everything conspired to toss a wrench into the whole works. As if I wasn’t trying to juggle and sort out enough stuff an unexpected new twist has come along and really thrown me for a loop, so, I’m still trying to stop my psyche from spinning and find my equilibrium. While the studio is by no means dead the last few months has completely tripped me up just as I was going to get stared and forced me to step back and rethink many things. Life doesn’t come with an instruction manual, you just gotta’ figure it out as you go. *Sigh* Adulting is hard sometimes.

More studio updates incoming at some point, once I’ve got new considerations fit into the plans. I was already committed to exploring and talking about how I want to take things to the next level and that isn’t changing, but I need a bit more time to get things sorted out. Personal projects on the other hand, might just find their way into the gap, so that’s not a bad thing…









+++ … still waters run deep … +++


----------



## Subtle Discord

++
+++++++
++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++
+++++
Motivation Subroutines ∙ Recalibrating… *HARSH BINARIC SCREECHING!!*
+++
Praxis Protocols Initialized ∙ Motivation Subroutines… Altered
++
++++
++++++








+++ Output Quota ∙ Inadequate +++ Incentive Reprimand ∙ Administered +++ +++ Information Exchange ∙ Update +++ +++ +++ Output Quota ∙ Adjusting Parameters… +++
++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++++
++
Update Incoming ∙ Standby…
+++++
++++++++
+++


----------



## Subtle Discord




----------



## Subtle Discord

+++++++++
++
++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++++++
Data-Link ∙ Active
+++++
++
Decrypting …
+++++++
++
Data File Lo.4313-7 ∙ Displaying…
++++++
+++
++++

So, life, the universe, and everything keep pulling me in several directions the last while and that’s got my brain just a bit preoccupied. I want to sit down and write more, but wording is harder than usual right now. While I _have_ been distracted and somewhat sporadic with updates I’m striving to _not_ be idle in the studio or the hobby bench so I figured a nice dump of large images with minimal text was the order of the day.

















∙ With decals _finally_ ready to go I can get down to actually properly finishing some models, like the Kastelan ‘Bots and Datasmith.

I still think the contrast of white decals would have been interesting but I’m completely happy with the black and ultimately I think it’s a better match to the blue-and-black scheme. Maybe I’ll get some white ones done in the future and use them to make alternate units using them or something.

















∙ To say I’m pleased with how the ammo hoppers and feeds turned out would be an understatement. They take some tweaking to get right…

… but the result is totally worth the effort; now _that’s_ a Kastelan that looks like it could spray out some phosphor rounds. You’re usually staring at the backs of your models when they’re on the table so they may as well look good from behind.









∙ Is the Dragoon just a really large model or do I need to consider a larger photography backdrop? I think it’s both, yeah?

Being all legs and Tazer Lances the Dragoons are quite challenging to completely frame in the shot as a complete unit without cropping anything. Since the projects are going to get much larger over time *glances at the Knight and Kytan sitting off in the corner* I guess it’s time to consider a larger backdrop solution.

















∙ I also overlooked priming the backpacks for the Skitarii riders, so they’re not _quite_ finished yet… but so close!

I’ll get around to the backpacks the next time I prime some other stuff, so these will catch up soon enough.

Speaking of things that will need to be primed in the near future…









∙ Patiently waiting their turn for several years it’s _so_ nice to finally get a unit of Onagers on the workbench.

The extra time was worth the wait. 

















∙ Yeah, that’s it, make a build for a model that’s already chocked full of all sorts of bits and gubbins, even _more_ involved. Good call.

Well, it’s not like I can stop _now_, can I?

*Ponders a moment to consider the chorus of whispers endlessly taunting me with ideas and inspiration*

Yeah… that’s not going to happen.









∙ All dressed up and waiting on the final bits and pieces… so _many_, hoses, cables, ladders, rails, and antenna… seriously.

I’m learning to love to hate to love the Mechanicus line. So many little bits to add to the models that make them look excellent… and make them more complex to paint… and did I mention it’s only a matter of when, not if, you’ll snap an antenna off? Wonderful, delicate, detailed, frustrating, unique, and tedious all in one. Perfect for my mildly masochistic tendencies really, I suppose.









∙ And of course, I _had_ to add one last bit to the mix. You’ve come this far, so know you saw it coming.

I was going to convert the Heavy Stubber included in the kit but I figured it would just be more straightforward to simply 3D model the entire bit in one go. Nothing too complex so it wasn’t hard to whip up. Still waiting on the first prints of this bit even as I write this.

Ok, so you can expect to see much more blue over the coming weeks as I apply _many_ decals to _many_ models and get them properly finished and table ready. I’m already eager to get on to some bigger projects but the foundation and first floor is _almost_ done and I can’t get distracted quite yet.

Omnissiah guide my hands of inferior flesh so that I might make your divine inspirations real.


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## Old Man78

Great stuff have a rep cookie


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## Subtle Discord

Oooo, a cookie!

*Subtle munches away on the tasty cookie*

Not often, but every once-and-awhile something fits _just right_ the first time…









∙ I think the barrels are just a little too low but the bit fits the spot _perfectly_. If I was someone else it would be good enough but it needs one round of adjustments.

I want to try another iteration with the barrel adjusted up a bit to center it in the round of the cut in the sloped armour. It just seems off that the round element of the model doesn’t line up with the round barrel of the bit; it lacks a certain logic that my poor hobby-OCD can’t ignore. But, with that minor quibble aside, oh my…









∙ … what have I done? Now I’m rather tempted to put twin Heavy Stubbers on the Onagers, because, _look_ at it. Mmmmm… Stubbers.

If I had of known I was going to do _this_ I could have left the Stubber off of the Neutron Laser and just put an antenna detail there, or something. Damn it, why do I do this to myself?! I can’t keep changing things all the time, _but…_ *sigh* Opinions and/or input?


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## Minigiant

Just popping in to try and generate some more conversation is this forum.

I have been a big fan of your work for a long time. Unfortunately I don't have any of the factions you support so instead I live vicariously through images on the internet.

As for your latest update, I think underslung heavy stubbers look awesome


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## Subtle Discord

Thanks for the positive feedback! I'm glad what I'm showing is interesting to those who might be outside of the factions I'm focusing on right now. Here's hoping I can expand to something you collect sometime in the future.

















∙ Hobby-OCD appeased… It's not a massive change but I'm glad I raised the barrels to align them with the round cut in the sloped front armour. The fit just feels more deliberate now.

I also adjusted the details on the barrel a bit to get the match really close to the Stubber under the Neutron Laser and then a quick mirror to make parts for the left and right, because yeah, I’m keeping all three Stubbers. Still lots of little bits to attach, but the custom stuff is done and they're in the home stretch before they get hit with some primer.

Ok, bed ways is right ways now. I have no idea what my next update will be, or when. We'll see what I get up to…


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## Minigiant

Subtle Discord said:


> Thanks for the positive feedback! I'm glad what I'm showing is interesting to those who might be outside of the factions I'm focusing on right now. Here's hoping I can expand to something you collect sometime in the future.


Imperial Guard :wink2:

I have lots of ideas if you would like to pick my brain


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++++++
+++
Warning! Unidentified Relation ∙ Detected…
+++++
Interference Variable Shift ∙ Increase 0. 037 – 0.874
++++++++
++++
Comm-Link ∙ Connection Lost
+++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Attempting Reconnect…
+++
+++++
Modulating Field Harmonics…
+++++++++
Interference Variable Shift ∙ Increase 0.874 – 1.620
+++++
Adjusting Frequency…
+++
Interference Variable Shift ∙ Increase 1.620 – 2.381
+++++++++++
Initializing Wide Field Antenna…
++++
Comm-Link ∙ Attempting Reconnect…
+++++++++
+++++
Scanning…
+++
++++++++
Scanning…
++++
++++++


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## Subtle Discord

+++++++
++++
Scanning…
++++++
++++++
Scanning…
++++++++
+++
Interference Variable Shift ∙ Decrease 2.381–1.417
+++
Modulating Field Harmonics…
++++++++++
Interference Variable Shift ∙ Decrease 1.417–0.621
+++++
+++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Attempting Reconnect…
+++++
+++
Adjusting Frequency…
+++
++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
+++
Priority Communication ∙ Target H-74 Identified
Priority Communication ∙ Target Telemetry Uplinked…
Priority Communication ∙ 1st Triarii Skitarii Vanguard 75 Requesting Directed Support
++++++
Cogitating ∙ Support Request Requirements…
+++
++++++++








+++ Diverting ∙ 3rd Triarii Onager Maniple 25 +++ +++ 25.22 - 25.33 - 25.34 ∙ Telemetry Downlinked +++ E.T.A. ∙ 7.25 Minutes +++
+++++
++++++
Interference Variable Shift ∙ Increase 0.621–1.136
+++++++
++++
Comm-Link ∙ Connection Lost
+++++++
Comm-Link ∙ Attempting Reconnect…
+++
+++++
Scanning…
++++++
++++++++


----------



## Subtle Discord

∙ Long overdue reply/s, update, and general long-winded ramblings arriving at some point in the somewhat near future, hopefully.


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## Subtle Discord

∙ Even _longer_ overdue update, reply/s, and much rambling coming at some point in the near future, and *this* time I _mean_it, I think. But in the mean time…

Having officially entered genuinely ‘interesting times’ that it can safely be said will be a significant period in history that we’re all _actually_ experiencing, I’ve tried unsuccessfully to gather several scattered lines of thought together on a few occasions and post something. Now that I’ve taken a bit of sabbatical time to let my brain settle back into my skull I’m hoping that I can get a long backlog of contemplation and consideration out. Warning, *large* brain dump, with _some_ pictures, coming soon’ish.


----------



## Subtle Discord

++++
++++++++
+++
Comm-Link ∙ Attempting Reconnect…
+++++
++++++
Adjusting Frequency…
+++
+++++++








+++ Comm-Link ‧ Active +++ Neural Congress ‧ Initialized +++ Data Uplink ‧ Initializing +++ Decrypting Uplink ‧ Ongoing +++ Standby... +++
+++++++++
++++
++++++


----------



## Subtle Discord

++++
++++++++
+++
Comm-Link ∙ Active
++++

Damn it. I feel like Prince Herbert in Monty Python and the Holy Grail; “… but I don’t want to get married, I just want to, _sing!”_ … “No no *no*, there’ll be none of _that!”_

+++
+++++++








+++ Decrypting Uplink ‧ Halt! +++ Neural Congress ‧ Initialized +++ Data Uplink ‧ Corrupt +++ Decrypting Uplink ‧ Repairing +++
+++++++++
++++

I don’t want to write, I just want to, _build!_ I just want to, _paint!_ … No no *no* you don’t, there’ll be none of that _procrastination;_ get writing!

++++++++
++++++
Motivation Subroutines ∙ Recalibrating… *HARSH BINARIC SCREECHING!!*
+++
+++++








+++ Exchange Output ∙ Inadequate +++ Incentive Reprimand ∙ Administered +++ Information Exchange ∙ Adjusting Parameters… +++
+++++++
Praxis Protocols Initialized ∙ Motivation Subroutines… Altered
+++++
+++
+++++++


----------



## Subtle Discord

+++ Comm-Link ∙ Active +++ Data Exchange ∙ Compiling +++ Progress Assessment ∙ Insufficient +++ Message ∙ Complimentary Motivational Encouragement Servitors directed to assist with data compilation. +++


----------



## Subtle Discord

Ok, time for a shameless bump, because, why not?









∙ I literally ran out of AdMech models to assemble but have so many bits at my disposal I was able to create this chap (and others) with some Electro-priest legs and nothing but spare bits.

I have too many images for the proper update I’m working on (yeah, *big* wall-o’-text incoming soon), so here’s a better look at one of the kit-bashed counts-as Daedalosus I came up with recently. It's a shame that his current rules limit him to one in an army because I had so much fun making the first one that I could help but make this second one.

Eradication Pistol ∙ Check. Servo-arc Claw ∙ Check. Omniscanner ∙ Check. Looks like a Daedalosus to me. 

I’m particularly pleased with how the Eradication Pistol turned out but I need to tweak the wrist since its drooping ever-so-slightly and aiming a bit low for my taste. I’m not completely sure I’m sold on the small ‘reactor’ backpack solution I came up with but it does accommodate the servo-skull really well, which I like, and I guess it’s a bit of a contrast to so many Tech-priests that are bulky and strapped with all manner of gubbins. Maybe once I add a few pouches and other bits it’ll fill him in a way that works for me. It’s fine if I can’t come up with something better, but he’s still a work-in-progress that has room to evolve because he’s not the only experiment in bits-bashing that I’ve been having fun with.

Ok, back to smashing the keyboard with my brain in hopes of finding the right words to finish my full update.


----------



## Subtle Discord

Ok, I’ve got no choice but to trim more out of the large post I’m working on. I’m stuck at a certain point and these images/projects simply take the post off in another direction just when I’m explaining my thinking and then I need to pull it back to what I’m trying to get across.

















∙ With no AdMech kits left to assemble but a mound of bits to work with I found myself compelled to create this counts-as Daedalosus and it turned out better than I expected.

Like with the other Daedalosus I showed previously everything except the Electro-priest legs is spare bits bashed together, even the outer robe from the Infiltrator kit, that I’m so amazed it fits as seamlessly as it does; I kept looking at the spare Infiltrator robe and the E-priest legs and it _seemed_ like they would fit together very easily but I had to chop them up to find out. Given that the robe adds a lot of motion I fiddled around with the arms quite a bit to try and get a pose that compliments the happy accident I had created. It’s very dramatic combined with the rather static legs so I tried to give a sense that he’s spinning around to take a shot with the pistol at a target the servo-skull as picked out. This was my first try at making an Eradication Pistol and it wasn’t bad, but the solution I came up with for the other Daedalosus above was so good I’ve replaced the one pictured here with the improved version.

















∙ I’m not that fond of the official Manipulus model and I still had another set of Electro-priest legs kicking around (*Groan* Dad joke? *Nod* Dad joke.) so I picked over the pile-o’-bits again to see what I could come up with.

Ok, so I need an Omnissian Staff and some kind of shooty gizmo that can counts-as two obscure weapons. Yeah, I’ve got enough odds-and-ends that I can come up with that. I’m happy with the staff, but while the rule of 40k is that over-the-top is usually a good thing I think the shooter might be a bit too, err, over-the-top-heavy. It’s not the worst solution but I think I’ll keep looking for another opportunity to bash something together that’s more suitable for the role. I’ve also just noticed that I overlooked that the Manipulus has Mechadendrites (Considering the official miniature, _of course_ he does, until you break them all off one-by-one) so I’ll have to see what I can come up with to evolve this idea just a bit more. But, not bad for a start of just bashing spare bits together to see what comes out the other side.

Adeptus Mechanicus is comfortably settling in alongside Chaos as a favorite for converting, bashing, and scratch building, with so many opportunities to mix things up. I can’t wait to get back to my Chaos to explore some darker ideas, and then blend the two factions as I start to contemplate my proper Dark Mechanicus and how they’ll be made real. I still suspect that GW will make them a proper faction someday, but who knows how far out that is, so until then I’ll keep working towards my own Darker goals…


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## Subtle Discord

* ∙ Disclaimer:* Talk of the real world is going to find its way into this and some future posts because the tabletop gaming hobby and real-world conditions converge in the studio I’m trying to create. Earlier failed attempts at writing an update were going to do their best to avoid this but given the scope and scale of world events, I’m finding it difficult to untangle everything. In the spirit of being relaxed and civil, I don’t have any desire to bring up really heavy-handed economic, social, or political, subject matter that will cause friction in a place intended to help distract from such subjects of the real world. However, I find it all but impossible to talk about the hobby as it’s related to the studio without touching on some of my perspective about the structures and conventions of society that are having such a huge impact on my personal plans and the world that impacts us all. I welcome any dialogue that might arise from anything I’ll be talking about over the coming weeks, months, and years, but I insist that in public it remain casual, civil, and tied somehow to the subject of tabletop gaming; if it’s going to go too far off into the weeds please take it to a Private Message.

TL;DR ∙ Please see the end of this post for a summary of these extended musings. Abandon all hope ye who enter; here, there be monstrous walls of text.

Well then, it’s been a while. I really enjoy writing, but when there are too many things pulling at my attention, it’s so hard to do. Where to start? How ‘bout, the begending?

I didn’t invent the word but the mashup dawned on me a while back and seemed fitting as I came to the realization that so many events don’t really have a formal start or finish. Some events do have a discrete start, middle, and finish, but so many beginnings represent the end of something else, and so many endings are the beginning of something new. While I was coming to this understanding on a personal level, world events had me noticing that it’s even truer when it comes to the flow of history. There is no arguing that we are in a unique moment in history and it seems like it might be a once-in-a-lifetime begending on a massive scale with outcomes that we can only guess at right now. So what was originally going to be more about my own recent begendings, well, world events have made it difficult to ignore a larger picture.

So, last spring (Oh yeah, we’re going back a bit, but just for a quick recap) I managed to injure my hand when I had an altercation with a cat we’d adopted. I don’t hold it against Oakley because he was still mellowing (He’s nothing but a good-tempered suck today) but he’s a huge cat and bit me really badly. He managed to nick the bone, hit a nerve, or something, in my right hand ruining my grip strength, and cats have bites that are notorious for getting infected so it took two rounds of antibiotics to get that under control; watching the infection spread across my hand, even after starting the first round of antibiotics within 24 hours, had me a little nervous until a switch to a more effective antibiotic made things right. I figured it would heal in a few weeks but it turned into more like a few months where I had no strength in my hand so it was all but impossible to cast or make moulds in the studio. All things considered, it was not lost on me that the same reasonably minor injury in another part of the world would have come with far more cost and/or complications but for me, it was an inconvenience that sidetracked me for a while.









 ∙ I *was* able to paint, 3D model, contemplate, and procrastinate. This beauty is an example of my distracted 3D modelling but it also got me thinking. Want to help me make it real?

Initially, I created this APC as a bit of a flight of fancy not really considering it for production any time soon; it seemed too large and ambitious but I wanted to model an entire tank, so I did. But, the more I considered my situation the more I could see that small kits aren’t working right now. Crucial to perfecting my printing and production process, smaller kits are also _very_ easy to get distracted with because they’re generally less work to design, consume fewer materials, and _very_ prone to tempting flights-of-fancy; but, I simply can’t produce enough small kits by myself to make them profitable enough to fund faster studio expansion. I have the ambition to try and make it work by myself while I have no other realistic choice, but the cold reality is, the only way to make smaller kits work is to ramp up production by dividing the labour between more people; it’s fascinating how diving a complex task has a compounding effect on the output, so doubling or tripling the labour actually produces more than double or triple the output, and that will be the key in the future. So, for now, I’ve decided to really curb smaller ideas, keeping them for side projects and when I have proper studio space that can accommodate the extra people I can really focus on the smaller ideas to produce them in volumes that make them sustainable.

Until that can happen, I need to do larger kits like the APC pictured above that command a higher price per kit, and these kinds of larger projects will lend themselves to individual crowdfunding drives; if I can get 50 people to support a $100 kit, that’s $5,000 upfront that can let me really focus all my attention on the project for the weeks it’ll need to finish. Up to this point, I’ve been doing lots of labour and investing in materials upfront to get a kit ready for production and then waiting for it to recoup that investment with sales. I wish I could simply keep doing it that way but until I get some kind of a proper cushion of funds to work with I need to at least have a selection of kits that provide healthy returns as a foundation that fund progress. Even if a funding drive is less successful I can still make it work but the pace will be slower, and if it’s more successful I can slog to finish knowing I’m obviously on to something and gain more momentum to expand the studio that much faster. With everything I’ve done so far, I’m very confident in what I can produce, just not how quickly I can do it, but once I get a few done I’ll have a better idea going forward. With each kit successfully put into production I’ll have an ever-broadening selection for future customers and some upfront profit to take the pain out of the process. Once I’ve got a large enough selection of kits that can do some heavy lifting the cycle should be able to become self-sustaining as long as I can keep the ideas up and I’ve got plenty of ideas. So that was the plan, put the smaller stuff on the back burner to simmer and get the larger kits cooking, and then life happened, quite literally…









 ∙ Hello Begending. You didn’t think I was only going to reference current events and the like when I was talking about the real world, did ya’? I’ll see your expectations and raise you a baby!

In case you’re wondering, he’s about 7 minutes old in the picture above, and he’s about 7 months old today. So, right around the time, my hand was finally healing properly and I was getting the above plan sorted out _this_ little guy became a future consideration… and promptly _*melted* my brain._ Preparation for his arrival combined with contemplating how he was going to fit in with everything I _thought_ I had just sorted out, well, that was enough for my brain to start overheating for a while. At some point in the next 3-4 years, my house is going to need another bedroom and at least part of my in-house studio space is now on the chopping block to provide the room. If I’m starting to get cramped for space in my studio now, well I guess my timeline just got much more concrete. If I’m going to do the studio now I have no choice but to get really serious about it, or, let it go. *Sigh* Back to pondering and weighing pro’s, con’s, timelines, and all sorts of other things.









∙ I had plans of showing more in-progress images as the Onagers received their paint but that kinda’ got lost along the way as I became absorbed in it as a meditative distraction.

I’m fortunate to have some contractual work during the fall and winter months at the college I attended. It’s a mixed blessing since it’s nice that it adds to the household income but it also takes away some of the finical motivation to get the studio up-and-running. It can be frustrating when it feeds into my procrastination, but in this case, I was feeling more than a little distracted so I’m glad I have it to fall back on and provide some outside structure to my weeks. With that, I set to work on the modest task of _three_ Onagers so that I might meditate through the act of painting; it isn’t my favorite part of the process, but I do like it for the trance-like state you can attain, that can then be used to block out some of the excess noise of the universe. My little nurgling pictured above (Producers of saliva, urine, feces, vomit, vectors for contagion of all manner, and yet so adorable and entertaining, yes, infants are essentially nurglings.) arrived in early December 2019 so there were only a few weeks until a hectic holiday season of visiting family followed up by a new year settling in discovering the kind of routine that a baby creates. No two are the same, so it takes some time to learn the routines and rituals of placation that work.

















 ∙ Despite the Onager competing for space in AdMech lists these days, I’m still very pleased to have a ‘unit’ of them ready for the tabletop.

I’m not sure I’d choose to do three of them together in one go again, but I can say that despite being much larger they were less daunting than painting three of the Sydonian Dragoons at the same time. Gluing the flip-down foot component to the base using the legs as a guide, and then keeping the legs loose during painting was a good plan. The AdMech model range benefits from (demands?) painting the models in sub-assemblies much more than other miniatures I’ve painted over the years, but they’ve given me an appreciation for what you can get away with if you’re careful during final assembly. I’ve learned that you can make surprisingly delicate/obvious connections between components without harming the paint job if you use Extra Thin solvent glue carefully; the simple trick is to be ready to aggressively blow on the join after applying the glue to quickly evaporate any excess that will cause damage or wrinkle the paint. However, the join _must_ be plastic-on-plastic if you want it to properly fuse and have any serious strength so carefully masking all of the touch points with poster-tack before priming and painting adds to the model’s preparation. Personally, the reduced headache of trying to paint some of the many challenging nooks-and-crannies of the AdMech models is worth the effort.

While I’m pleased with how the decals turned out I’m a bit frustrated how obvious some of the edges are even after ample Micro Sol/Set application. They snug down to curved surfaces perfectly but it doesn’t soften or blend the edges. Being new to making decals I’m certain I was too heavy-handed with the spray-on film so I think I might need to try a few experiments to perfect the process of making them. I did some research to see if there are any other options for dealing with this and discovered that you can put a heavy coat of hard gloss varnish over the decal and then use really high grit sandpaper to blend the edges away. Naturally, I learned this _after_ I had applied some softer satin and matt varnish in hopes that they would do the trick by themselves. I’m fighting the urge to be impatient and trying to very gently sand the edges with some 1200 and 2000 sandpaper, but I’m forcing myself to try it on something that isn’t a finished model first. I’m not pleased with it but it’s ultimately very minor and I’d hate to make a bigger mess trying to fix it.









 ∙ As the Onagers were finished it started to dawn on me that, hold on a moment, *Checks his to-do list* I’ve… got a… painted army… ? ... I’ve got a painted army. I’ve got a _painted army!!_ And look at that, a begending.

Now, the points have changed over the many months of painting and building, my understanding of 8th game mechanics and tactics changed (and now 9th is here), along with the AdMech faction getting some new toys, so I knew already that my 2,000 point list was going to change. (More on that in a moment.) I’ve also still got to do the decals on _all_ of the troops, and some final little touch-ups and overlooked details, so there’s still a bit more work but the end of this phase is in _actual sight_ at this point; I’m finally at the tipping point that going forward all I need to do is paint units to add to the greater whole and that’s always a lot less daunting. *Binaric screech of glee* So, even if the list is going to get an adjustment I have enough _painted_ models to put a proper table-ready list together and actually venture out into the real world and start checking out what the scene in my area is like. I get out, start throwing some dice, meeting some people, and let my models work as conversation starters; I need to find at least a few talented individuals to grow the studio so I’d rather try and find a gamer or two who appreciates the hobby and this strange obsession with little plastic toy soldiers rather than someone just doing a job. To be perfectly honest, I have no desire to be a boss so why would I want someone who’s just an employee? (Again, more on that in a moment.) I finished the custom bits, assembling, basing, and priming the Onagers in December and painted them over January and February as the little nurgling settled into his routine, my brain settled back into my skull, and I reassured myself that yes, I can make this work. I’m sure you can see where _this_ is going…

What could _possibly_ happen in March to stop me from being able to go out into public?!

*Subtle sslloowwllyy tilts his head as his eyes grow wide and his expression becomes… disturbing*

Huh? What the heck is a Novel Coronavirus? *Entire regions of the world begin grinding to a halt* Aw jeez, now _that’s_ a begending.

I think I’m gonna’ need another distraction, or several, and some time to process this turn of events. What’s that, stay at home orders? Well looks like I’ve got the time part sorted out.

















 ∙ Umm, what else needs some paint? Some Breachers and another Dominus? That works for me! Because of my procrastination, these are actually finished at this point but that’s another story for another post.

Ok, this is somewhere in the middle of what I’m trying to write, but I got tangled up trying to convert my thoughts into words, and then I got pulled in a few directions by some studio stuff and more real-life events to distract me.

So, this will be a _To Be Continued_ post that I hope to follow up within something resembling a short while.

TL;DR – See the end of my next post for a summary of my prolonged wording.


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## Yduros

I spent so much time seeing your pictures. I just started gathering some pieces. I'd like to have all your stuff. You're such connoisseur. Thank you , you make my day.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
An all time classic for all your board games https://www.dadi-online.it


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## Subtle Discord

_See,_ what else is new? I want to be writing to finish up my last post but then all of _this_ showed up and I had another task to get done. I was planning on getting this at a later point but a recent windfall let me invest in a new ventilation hood and two 5’x3’ solid steel workbenches. Getting the 68 kg (150 lbs) benches down into my cave, err, _basement studio_ was fun to say the least, here’s hoping they don’t have to get back out. I’ve been looking at these for a few years and the price kept creeping up so I’m glad to be able to get them sooner rather than later in case another increase is in the cards, which I suspect is likely.









∙ Great, a much needed 500 CFM upgrade to my ventilation but now I gotta’ figure out how to fit it in and connect all the ducts.








∙ Now that’s a respectable upgrade to my modest Manufactorium that’s instantly helped with my organization and equipment layout.

The setup is still rather humble but it’s almost starting to look like I know what I’m doing.  It might seem odd that something as simple as a large sturdy flat surface would make me downright giddy but I’ve been dealing with a cobbled-together collection of tables that were less than ideal up to this point so it’s a simple but significant improvement.

Next up I need to get a small clay slab roller so I can speed up my mould making process and save my poor ageing hands from the torture of doing it with a rolling pin. After that, I will be upgrading pressure camber ‘A’ and ‘B’ to match the heavier ‘C’ chamber and the two lighter chambers will be put on permanent mould making duty to help the process further since casting and mould making won’t need to share the same pressure chambers. But for now, this setup will let me hit the ground running again with my current plans and have room for improvement soon. The next update should be my finish to my last wall-o’-text where I’ll give an outline of what I’m planning and to look for any input or feedback that might be forthcoming.


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## Old Man78

Your kitbashes are great, they look like were designed that way! And congratulations on your little organic kitbash😁


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## Subtle Discord

*Subtle clenches his eyes shut and blocks his ears with his hands in a futile attempt to stop the endless ideas that lurk in the dark corners of his brain*

No no no! I have things to do! Please stop temping me with distracting ideas! *Binaric screeching* Lo, the Omnissiah offers inspiration so that I might find my way in these dark times.









∙ Yes! I know! I am to take the concept of the Forge World Ordinatus and blend it with this glorious AdMech mega kit-bash.








∙ Look! Can you see?! I have begun gathering the required components and have contemplated my plan. Can you see it?! I can see it!

It _will_ happen, and it’s _sooo_ tempting to get started on it because it’s begging to come into existence, but I’ll settle for this much progress as a proof-of-concept and put it aside. For now…


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Warning! ∙ Procrastination Scrap-code Detected! +++ Progress Assessment ∙ Diverted! +++ Critical Action ∙ Primary Activity… Halt! +++ Primary Motive Cache ∙ Dumping… +++ Primary Motive Cache ∙ Resetting… +++


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## Subtle Discord

Sidetracked by several things inside and outside of the studio, I haven’t found the time and focus to finish writing the follow up to my last wall-o’-text.









 ∙ Replication Subroutines: Initialized. Oh yeah, it's good to _finally_ get back to makin’ messes, castin’ kits, and makin’ moulds.

However, the delay is a mix of good and unexpected news, which has me wanting to evolve what I was going to write about anyhow, so it’s all for the best in the long run. The gears are starting to turn again so keep the vox tuned and be sure to observe the proper rites of maintenance and placation.









 ∙ Well well, aren’t you a fine looking little cyborg. What’s that, I should obey the Omnissiah’s will and… _*innovate...*_ your ride? OK!

It’s been quite some time since I’ve had to paint a pilot and cockpit before assembling a model. It’s bringing back memories of some of my earliest model building and I’m already dreading working with the clear canopy bits, _just like_ I did way back when. Fun fun?

Naturally, now that I’ve got one of these models in my grubby little digits and can see how it assembles I’ve got a solid idea of what I want to do to alter it. I actually don’t mine the ornithopter inspired design of the stock model, but I’m me after all, and when a kit inspires me like this one I’ve got no choice but to have some fun with it.

*In an old-timey radio voice*

*This* and _much more,_ in our next episode featuring the eccentric Dr. Mechanicus and his ever-faithful (because it’s programmed to be that way) servitor Solus, _*coming soon!*_


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## Subtle Discord

Come for the shiny pictures of my newest creation, but please stay for the important information down below.

Another shorter post carved from the larger blob of text I’m working on. With several things that I want to talk about, but those things are also pulling me in several directions, I wanted to get this part out sooner rather than later so I can solicit some ideas, input, and feedback. But first, a distraction to lure people in...

In my humble opinion, the new Scorpius model is so on-the-nose as a transport, taking so many cues from 20th-century landing craft, that it simply falls flat when it's assembled as the Disintegrator; it really seems like something that was _excellent_ as the primary Dunerider version and then ham-fisted and forced into the Disintegrator version. It's that damn side profile silhouette that simply doesn't go away when you build it as the Disintegrator, even with the turret. Nope, I wanted to come up with a _different_ solution.









∙ I had a Goliath Truck for several years that I wanted to change into an artillery vehicle, and this was the perfect opportunity.

More on the Duneriders and other stuff related to them later, but for now, this is what I came up with; the Disintegrator artillery and support truck. I'm quite pleased with the eclectic mix of weapons that create what I think is a very AdMech look to the model. A forward operating unit with nutrient paste, ammunition, spare parts, lubricants, fluids, and batteries of _all_ sizes, in a pinch for frontline troops, while _also_ proving close artillery support. Yep, I think that'll work just fine.

I did use my casting skills for a tiny bit of mischief, making a mould of the Servitor bits for the turret, but I'm still paying the full price of admission by using it on a complete Goliath model, and it'll never be used for profit, so that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Besides, the *Omnissiah* _compelled_ me to do it! *Chatters in binary*









∙ It seemed like coming up with a counts-as for the Disruptor Missiles was going to be a challenge; doubling the Heavy Stubber barrels on the other hand was straightforward.

At first, I was considering how I could create/add a missile weapon system of some sort and I just wasn't finding any inspiration. Then I noticed that the standard profile of Eradication Beamer (36", Hvy.D6, S8, AP-2, D-D3) is so close to the Disruptor Missiles (36", Hvy.D6, S7, AP-2, D-D3) that I quickly came up with this solution; meet the Atrum Laboris pattern Disruptor Beam. Note: Originally a subcomponent of a larger device, the actual purpose that this beam was intended for is lost to time, but it does _horrible_ things to whatever it's pointed at when activated, so _now,_ it's a weapon.

With three Heavy Stubbers on the Disintegrator, I needed to do something to help convey them so I doubled the barrels on the turret as the most straightforward solution; I was considering a three-barrel rotary-style weapon but it was just too bulky for my taste when I mocked it up. I'm tempted to build another Servitor to ride on the back equipped with a Hvy. Stubber to represent the third but that’s easy to add at any point if I decide to do it. As much as I like enhancing many of my builds with 3D modeled/printed components I also really enjoy the times where I can create something like _this,_ with just bashing together the parts that are in the existing kits with a bit of styrene.









∙ More coming soon from the depths of Atrum Laboris, but now that I have your attention please find your way to the information below.

I finally got the opportunity to apply to a small business assistance program that’s been offered by my city that I’ve been trying to get in to for a few years, and in the time since I was last able to write I’ve been accepted and I’ll be doing it over the next four months or so. Business plans, market research, taxes, permits, insurance, bookkeeping, etc., and writing, writing, writing, so much writing, and all the wonderful bureaucratic stuff that I’ve gotta’ figure out for the next steps of expansion. Even if this is something that can be delegated in the future to someone more suited I simply can’t do that _yet_, and even when I can, I still need to have a general understanding of which way is up with all of the paperwork, permits, projections, plans, and such.

As always, I’m happy to be making progress but it’s going to be an interesting several months as I do this and get comfortable teaching (more on that in a future post). However, I also see it as just the kick in the pants I need to sort this stuff out and know I’m doing everything by-the-book going forward. What’s that thing they say? You need to get out of your comfort zone if you’re going to improve and discover opportunities to take advantage of, and you’ll know you’re out of our comfort zone when you start suffering _minor panic attacks?!_ Something like that, right? 

So, looking at some of the things I’ll need to do it will obviously include market research and I think I can already see an opportunity to tap a few communities online for some ideas, input, and feedback. While online forums have been fading for quite some time with the rise of social media I think the modest community that read what I post is a real asset and a valuable collective opinion directly from a selective group of hobbyists I want to hear from. By now, with the number of times I've been given valuable input, perspective, or support, that has been completely unexpected but very welcome, encouraging, and/or insightful, I knew I should see if anyone who's following here has any suggestions.

I know I can look to the strength of Games Workshop and the successful growth of other tabletop games like X-Wing for something of a cornerstone to how the tabletop gaming industry is healthy with _lots_ of money involved. But it’s also an obscure industry that kinda’ straddles several markets/products/industries that makes me think it’ll be a bit harder to find other compelling information, data, trends, etc., in typical locations. Can anyone who's reading offer some ideas that I’m not coming up with, where I might consider looking for information about the tabletop gaming industry in broader business terms?

I also know I can also find many other similar producers that I can use as an example of the potential market and to compare and contract my studio to the competition and how I plan to differentiate my studio from them. But I’m wondering if there are other ways I can showcase the potential of what my studio will do that I’m not thinking about. So yeah, does anyone have _any_ ideas in this vein; industry outlook, growth potential, industry/market trends, promotion ideas, other random input, or thoughts you think would be useful?

As I said, this will be ongoing for several months so there should be some updates over the coming weeks and there’s a good chance I’ll be coming back to ask more questions and/or to look for input on something I’m nothing thinking about right now. If you have something you’d like to contribute please feel free to add it here or send it to me in a PM if you’d rather be more direct. I have no idea if this will pay off but it doesn’t hurt to try, and as I said before, I’ve been so pleasantly surprised by unexpected and useful input over the years I’ve got a good feeling a few people out there might have a few words of wisdom they can spare.

I know I keep saying it, and up to this point it feels like the steps have been so _very_ slow-and-steady, but now I think all the pieces are settling into place that will let the momentum start taking hold… as long as the rest of the world would like to co-operate and not fall apart.


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## Subtle Discord

As always, way too much to talk about and never enough time. However, Legion Rising demands some form of sustenance so I’m compelled to provide.

















∙ What’s old is new again. Before I can really get going on new stuff I have some popular old kits that need to be redesigned.

Seeing that I consistently get emails asking about the future of the Land Raider armour kits, I’ve got to get an update of the design done sooner rather than later.

I think my situation is starting to settle into a new normal where I’ll aim to provide a proper wall-‘o-text-‘n-pictures, but for now, this will have to do.


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## Subtle Discord

∙ So I picked up a box of Armigers for future plans, and then a warp storm hit making time meaningless.








∙ Damn, they’re a fun little kit to put together, downright easy to magnetize, and positively begging for some customization.
















∙ So who am I to ignore inspiration granted to me by what I am sure can only be the will of the Omnissiah? More coming soon...

I find the stock Auto-cannons to be so lacking and just wanted to make them feel more menacing. Doubling them ties it in with the Mechanicus serving Knights theme I'm aiming for (inspired by the AC's on the Onager kit) while also making it look more intimidating, if I do say so myself. I'm embracing my Counts-as spirit here and ignoring that pestering WYSIWYG in the name of Cool.


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## Subtle Discord

More on Armiger weapons and the like in the near future, but now it’s time for something not _quite_ so completely different…









∙ Remember this little biological component? Well, I tried to ignore the idea for later but then this happened… 








∙ Forgive me Omnissiah, for I have innovated! I beg your forgiveness as I commit these acts in your honour and glory.

Having a deep understanding of gravity manipulating technologies the Archaeopters of the Atrum Laboris forge world employ exotic anti-gravity arrays to provide lift and remarkable maneuverability to the craft.

My plan is to create nose mounted Las-cannons (which makes more sense to me than mounting them in the rear) and combined with the pictured Phosphor Blasters and under-wing bombs, the builder can make the kit with more options on where to mount the weapon systems; strafing gunboat with forward facing main weapons, the bomber with under-wing bombs plus front and rear facing Heavy Stubbers, and the Transport just needs to lose the bombs. Despite me using a backdrop image with them pictured the Heavy Stubbers sticking out of the doors just seemed like a crude solution to me and this setup removes their need. Also, a replacement tail component is in the works but it’s still quite rough. I’m keeping the vertical fin/flap but replacing the bottom fins/flaps with a smaller anti-gravity array.

I'm trying to stay productive in preparation for future plans. Focused? Not so much. I probably should have worked on something else and saved this for later but this idea got in my head and I couldn't let it go until I could see it properly.


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## Subtle Discord

Yup, I probably should have waited a little while before starting work on any Knight concepts but this is a good example of how my gift for creation is both a blessing and curse; sure it provides an endless stream of ideas, but sometimes it also all-but _compels_ me to become obsessed with exploring a particular inspiration and I struggle to ignore the idea and leave it for the later. Ultimately it’s not the worst thing, since it means I have a body of work waiting ‘in stasis’ for the time when I can start to really increase my output and I will be able to pull them out one after another. In the meantime, I feel some frustration with myself for not being as disciplined with my schedule as I would like to be. With that said, I’m settling into a plan for this spring and summer and in this case, the Knights will find their place in that, sometime near the end.









∙ In case anyone is wondering, the Taser arm _is_ a ‘sleeve’ so the rail can be adjusted to any position during the build. 

















∙ In the spirit of Knights in service to a proper forge world _this_ is what I had in mind to pair up with the Taser combat weapon.

Naturally, these could also be doubled up and used as a Counts-as option to represent some other variant of the Knight chassis. Even now I’ve still got a few more ideas bouncing around in my brain that I’m really forcing myself to _not_ get distracted with and I’m going to be happy with these concepts to show my thinking so far. As with so many things up to this point, this is more of a proof-of-concept that’s something of a baseline that already has lots more work involved before I could make it a physical reality for production, and then there are the other additional ideas that could build on top of the baseline but I simply can’t invest the time into them, yet.

So, while these are reasonably complete looking they're actually far from finished but in addition, they're also just a teaser for many more future ideas.


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Comm-Link ∙ Active +++ Data Exchange ∙ Compiling Data Stack 8∙M∙21 +++ Innovation Protocols ∙ Initializing +++
+++ Message ∙ Directing Motivational Encouragement Servitors to provide assistance with protocol implementation. +++


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## Subtle Discord

_Subtle stumbles out of a small unexpected warp phenomenon with a bewildered expression on his face which he quickly shakes off, regaining some semblance of focus_

Replies, news, and _ongoing_ updates coming very soon... and this time I _mean_ it! But first, quiz time!









∙ One of these components is created with a $4,000 3D printer and one is created with a $300 3D printer; which one is which?

I may have made it a bit too easy because I went out of my way to zoom in very tight and hit these with really strong light at very low angles to get the minor, almost invisible, surface variations to actually show on camera. Otherwise, without magnification, it becomes all-but-impossible to tell the difference when holding them in hand. The newer resin 3D printers that have started to arrive in the last few years are starting to reach a price-to-performance ratio that’s almost hard to believe. But, more on that in the near future.

I _promise_ to be following up very soon. My brain is as cluttered as my desk right now (It seems I prescribe to the, disordered desk = active creative mind, concept) but I’m going to _lose_ my mind if I don’t get out of this Covid induced rut. Big things are coming into focus, figuratively and literally, very soon.

_Subtle ties a rope around his waist and tentatively steps back into the warp phenomenon_


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## Subtle Discord

So I have a Word document file that I use to write out and prepare posts, especially if they’re long, which is rather common. I’ve been looking through it as I write this and noticing all of the unfinished compositions that got lost in the fog that has been the last 18+ months and there’s trains of thought I want to salvage and other stuff that’s out-of-date and not worth mentioning anymore. This is to say, some posts may seem a bit disjointed as I mash a few things together while catching up.

I’ve been trying to find time and focus to get some paint on the models I recently primed. On a related side note, I wanted to bring up a product that I’ve been trying to find for several years. After purchasing several different ‘acrylic mediums’ and never finding the right blend of consistency and transparency, I finally found this stuff.









∙ It’s all about finding a product that has ingredients that don’t create too much translucency and has the correct viscosity.

I’ve never used GW’s Lahmian Medium but I suspect this is _very_ close if it’s not identical. Almost transparent and about as thick as a medium-light syrup this stuff has become my new go-to thinner when I want to keep the paint’s consistency while thinning out the pigment. The bottle warns of weakening the paint film strength if you use too much but I haven’t had issues when I’ve used it to create quick glazes/washes of unique colours and with the all-but mandatory coat of varnish that table ready miniatures receive it shouldn’t be an issue. At about $5-6 CAD for a 118 ml (4 oz.) bottle, it’s about 25% the price of GW’s product for what I suspect is the same results and 118ml should last for years for a typical painter.

















∙ Do these augmentations and cybernetic replacements make my butt look fat? As requested several months ago, an image of the Servitors from the back.

As I mentioned earlier, the large packs are mostly leftover bits from the Kataphron kit chopped up with a bit of styrene and a few gubbins from other leftover AdMech bits to complete them. Nothing too elaborate but I think they are a good quick solution and they have the kind of bulk that helps sell the hunched pose of the Servitors I attached them to, as intended.









∙ I haven’t had a chance to take any other pictures of this group but here’s the earlier photo without altered lighting mucking up the colour.

I focused on the kit-bash Daedalosus, Servitors, and the crew of the Artillery Truck to get the smaller stuff out of the way. At some point, I’ll take some pictures of the Servitors alone with less dramatic lighting so I can show them from the front and back in full colour. I need to get around to taking some good photos the two Dominus Tech Priests too, now that they’re painted, but I’m kinda’ waiting for them to be varnished for the nice unifying effect it has on the paint and decals; they’re still a bit too shiny in places to photograph well.









∙ Every once-and-awhile it feels like the four heads of the servitors have been tasked with overseeing the painting progress.

The artillery trucks are more complex and more interesting so I chose to get started on them first. Most of the shading is done and once the primary weathering is applied it’s just down to the highlighting and fiddley details, followed by the obligatory dirtying up finish them off.









∙ I’m always nervous about overdoing the chipping effect when I apply it. A vehicle needs some wear-and-tear but I don’t want it to seem heavy-handed or too uniform and predictable.

In my mind as I’m applying it I’m constantly thinking about _how_ the paint damage might happen; this is a spot where ground stones would have been kicked up while driving, these are the openings where crew enter/exit and their gear knocks up the edges, winch loops need some scuffs and scratches around them so they look used, etc., etc., etc. On a certain level, it’s silently giving the model a bit of a backstory in my mind while I work and it helps give me some direction instead of just randomly applying it and hoping for the best.









∙ To anyone who guessed or is curious, the 3D printed components on the left were from the lower-cost 3D printer.

I recently added an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro resin printer to the equipment in my little maufactorium. While my Solus printer achieves amazing results it has a painfully small build area compared to the average sizes of the newest crop of 3D printers that have been arriving in the last 2 years or so. A respectable build size combined with enough resolution and I think the pictures show that the technology is getting _very_ impressive results at a reasonable price point. It still comes with many other considerations (space, noise, smell, chemical storage and handling, learning curve) that keep it a long way from mass-market penetration but for a market demographic that partakes in a hobby that has a significant ‘some assembly required’ element, I suspect there’s a higher percentage of gaming hobbyists who might rather invest in a setup like this so they can create custom bits and models for their existing armies rather than invest in a new army.









∙ Not bad for a quick test print to try out the printer and a first try to check the tolerances of the components I created.

These are the lower resolution 50µm layer height and while there are a few stubborn spots it’s easy to see the results are more than passable. In many cases, the layering in stubborn spots can easily be dealt with using a bit of 400-600 grit sandpaper and it really is only an issue in select locations that are usually predictable. If there’s too much detail it can be impossible to remove but if it’s a large flat area it’s very easy to sand away. Naturally, dropping to a 20-30µm layer height makes the issue even less of a problem; in all but the most stubborn spots, the layers are so small that primer and paint fill them in the majority of the time.

But, before I get too far off into the weeds on that subject before I’ve got it sorted, I’ll leave it here so I can do some direct replies and keep juggling the other stuff in the studio that I’ll be talking about in the near future.


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## Subtle Discord

+++ Comm-Link ∙ Active +++ Data Exchange ∙ Halt! +++ Priority Encryption Key ∙ Verified +++ Key Designation ∙ Centurio Ordinatus +++ Data Exchange ∙ Compiling... +++

_In a Bugs Bunny voice_
“Just look at that Domnius, it doesn’t become you at all! Here, let me fix it up. What a shame, such an _iiiinteresting_ army too. My stars, if an _iiiinteresting_ army can’t have an _iiiinteresting_ commander, then I don’t know what things are coming to.”

A gift from Santa that’s been sitting on a shelf several months awaiting its turn, after a bit of careful rebranding, meet the new Archmagos Artisan [Name to be Determined] that will be directing the archaeological expeditions of the 3rd Artisan Legion 1st War Cohort. I’ll be using them as a counts-as Cawl if I ever have the desire to use Mars rules. Otherwise, it makes an excellent centerpiece for the infantry of the army. In turn, it seems the latest expedition has resulted in success…









 +++ Image Capture ∙ Displaying +++ Template Construct Preview ∙ Displaying +++ Priority Exchange! ∙ Construct Requirements +++ Adjust Parameters ∙ Ongoing… +++

Printed at full scale on an 8.5”x11” sheet of paper, ok, I’m starting to think I was a bit ambitious when I chose to create ‘something big’ to test the new capabilities of the studio. However, this completely improvised (in the spirit of all Ordinatus constructs) passion project has reached this point, so it’s too late to stop now. In an effort to avoid wasting materials I’ve still got some testing and some learning curve to climb before I start 3D printing the parts for this Minoris Macro Engine but expect to see it translate from digital template to a real construct in the near future.


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## Subtle Discord

Ok, so the Ordinatus had to be placed in stasis for a while so I could focus on something for the studio before I put too many hours towards a personal project. It will return. But, I also came to the conclusion that work completing the project in this post would give me the experience I need to get the best possible results when I start trying to print the more complex forms of the Ordinatus chassis. I’ve almost got the cannon itself complete (and I’ll show that in the near future when it’s done but it still needs the focusing array – just wait, I’m quite pleased!) but just getting that much done informed me that I needed to turn my attention to some studio projects first.

Many moons ago I was asked if I would consider doing complete vehicle models. I answered that I was eager to get to that level someday but at the time the effort required to finish a complete model like that with every detail created to my hobby-OCD standards seemed daunting and/or simply out of reach; but then I got good at 3D modeling. Fast-forward a bit, and despite getting my hands on a very good DLP 3D printer that opened the door to a new world of design and manufacturing, size limitations restricted how far (read: how large) I could take my ambitions; but then there was (finally!) a significant price-to-performance jump in 3D printing technology. So today I’m pleased to say that, yes, I think I’ll be making good on my talk many months ago that I need to start doing larger projects as a better foundation for the studio to build on.

I’ve also been asked on several occasions if I would consider distributing my designs as STL files for people to 3D print themselves. Beyond the honest hesitancy, I had to let my designs go off into the digital wild of the internet, I was genuinely skeptical of just how many people had access to high-resolution 3D printers that would make the market really worthwhile. Well, despite the effect of the warp storms that have distorted so much over the last few years it seems that 3D printing was at a tipping point that even current disruptions in day-to-day life could not stop. In the last few years in particular the previously mentioned significant price-to-performance jump in resin 3D printing tech that made my own ambitions larger, has also made it much more attractive and attainable to many more enthusiast-level hobbyists who are picking up a 3D printer. So yes, given recent developments I think STL files will be on the menu soon. Note, this will not be replacing plans to get the casting studio up and running at a proper sustained ongoing capacity but this will help that part of the studio get going.









∙ Lost in the Nurgle-induced warp storms that consumed our planet in 2020, the delay may have actually been a good thing.








∙ Now, not just 3D modeled as a demonstration, but updated and carefully redesigned for resin 3D printing and proper assembly.








∙ And this time, I’m quite serious… Now entering real-space, [+++ Pattern Designation To Be Determined +++] Medium APC.

This has been printed with an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro with a 20-micron layer height and believe it or not, it’s still only a proof-of-concept prototype that still needs some final adjustments to the design to improve the visual quality and fit during assembly. Once those adjustments are complete and the components are properly set up for printing, if I can do it, then anyone with a similar setup can do the same. Because this hobby has a major ‘some assembly required’ component it will attract a larger than average percentage of the community who is willing to add the extra steps required to have the creative control that a good 3D printer can provide. That said, people who are predicting that 3D printing is going to turn tabletop gaming completely upside-down and blindside GW in some dramatic way don’t know very much about injection mould mass production, economies of scale, and the seductive lure of convenience. Regardless of how deep the 3D market will penetrate the hobby the vast majority of consumers will always prefer to simply open a box/bag and remove the desired product. The idea of adding even a fraction of the added time and effort of 3D printing, regardless of payoff, is simply a non-starter. So, it seems simple to see that the studio needs to use the digital assets to create STL files for the 3D printing market and then direct the returns generated towards turning the designs into cast resin kits for everyone who just wants to build the damn things, not give 3D printed birth to them.

Interested in what you see? Intrigued by what you’ve read? Want to help the studio out in this endeavour? Stay tuned. Further updates and information coming soon.


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## Subtle Discord

∙ Oh yeah, in case anyone is wondering, yes, this vehicle will _absolutely_ have a selection of weapon systems.

I didn't want anyone to think this was all just about the vehicle chassis that's been seen before. Naturally, anything _that_ dressed up and ready for a night on the town _needs_ some accessories. However, I'm holding off printing prototypes until I've worked the kinks out of the tank and that should help me avoid issues with the weapons. In theory...


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## Subtle Discord

-_Subtle emits a gleeful binaric screeching so harsh it makes your teeth itch_-









∙ I’m sorry daddy had to force you into tracks that are a bit too small, my darling.








∙ But look at how nicely they suit you.








∙ I can hardly believe how you’ve grown from an inspiration in my mind into something actually _real._

-_Subtle glances up with a questioning expression_-

What? Yes, I _sometimes_ talk to my models in an endearing fashion. And when they look this good they’re deserving of some flattering words. -_Subtle glances over_- Aren’t you, darling?

However, despite how good the APC looks this is still just a proof-of-concept prototype used to test all sorts of things and work out any kinks in this design and hopefully future designs. It broke about eight times when I was assembling it (you might notice a crack here or there) and there are various minor fit issues primarily because the tolerances are too tight in a few key places and there is some minor warping. While the lower cost resin printers available today are absolutely amazing there’s still a certain amount of minor distortion that creeps up in places due to the lower cost printing resin and the pull/tension/suction forces that happen during the process. The accuracy is still very good (I think the images attest to that) but now I’ve discovered that some parts need a tiny bit more space to accommodate the assembly of the model without a lot of sanding beyond what’s normally required to clean up due to the printing process.

I want to reprint the hatches to improve them (and not break them this time) but beyond that, this is a very successful first step. Several bottles of printing resin are on order and the next round of prints should make sure I’ve got a lock on designing this scale of model for the printers on the market today. It’s still more effort and cost than a kit out of a box but that’s the expense of creating something more exclusive and unique like this. Stay tuned for the next round of test prints that I’m confident will work out the majority of the issues I ran into while building this and when it’s ready to release into the wild I’ll also explain further what’s going to be happening with the studio over the coming weeks, months, and years.


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