# First look at the Finecast Daemon Prince of Nurgle



## Svartmetall (Jun 16, 2008)

I'm putting this in News & Rumours since the whole Finecast thing has been such a hot topic in here that this seemed the right place for it, but if a mod feels this thread would be better in Painting & Modelling, feel free to move it. 


So, this was MY first Finecast purchase - a brace of Daemon Princes of Nurgle, to serve as the Heavy Support contingent for my Daemons army.









The parts are in the familiar see-through plastic tray:









And here they are out of the box; the main difference is that they now come on 4 small sprues as opposed to just being loose in the box. This is with no work done to remove flash or anything, this is exactly as they came out of the box:









And again, you can see that they're very clean and entirely flash-free:








No obvious mould lines that leapt out at me, and none of the small bubbles that you can get with resin.

Now I'm not going to be gluing these together for a while because I want to work out how to convert them, so I just blu-tacked him together (hence the visible gap between the front and back of the torso) so you could see the level and the cleanliness of the detail on him:
























In the flesh, he's very clean and the detail is very sharp; one thing that struck me (well, I knew this already from working on Finecast stuff in GW's casting room, but it's nice to see it on a large model even if only semi-assembled) is how much easier it is to see all the detail on the urethane resin, as opposed to the glare-prone white metal. These are, by the way, raw pics straight off the camera, no tricks or cleaning up (not least because I have no bloody clue how to do any of that stuff anyway :biggrin and just a random model which was the first one off the shelf in Warhammer World an hour ago, no sorting through bins to get an extra-good one for the camera. 


So hopefully this might help put people's minds at ease about the quality of the Finecast stuff, if anyone was having doubts or needing reassurance. Yes, I work for GW (in fact I could, in theory, have stripped this very model from its mould) but I'm in no way a mouthpiece for anyone's opinions other than my own. This model rocks 



hth


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## Grins1878 (May 10, 2010)

I have to say, even the pics in WD made me twinge a bit at some of teh finecast stuff, they look really crisp and neat. Saves a shedload of pinning too I'll bet!


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## EmbraCraig (Jan 19, 2009)

Just took a trip up to GW to have a look at the 'nid models and I have to agree, they look very sharp and clean. The details on the Hive Guard guns look nice and crisp, and the squiggly bits of the Zoan brains look like they'll come out a treat with a wash - still not entirely convinced they're worth the extra few quid a model, but if they go together as easily as it's claimed then this is looking like a good move.


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## MetalHandkerchief (Aug 3, 2009)

The sword is terribly bent. I hope it can be straightened without snapping back to it's original position like the FW resin. That's very disappointing if not.


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## bitsandkits (Mar 18, 2008)

MetalHandkerchief said:


> The sword is terribly bent. I hope it can be straightened without snapping back to it's original position like the FW resin. That's very disappointing if not.


Your focusing on one element and missing the other stuff, besides metal weapons are often bent/warped out of shape, so its nothing new.


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## Maidel (Jun 28, 2009)

bitsandkits said:


> Your focusing on one element and missing the other stuff, besides metal weapons are often bent/warped out of shape, so its nothing new.


did you honestly expect him to do or say anything else :laugh:


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## Achaylus72 (Apr 30, 2011)

It looks very nice crisp and clean, it gives the figure a new lease of life.

I'm Impressed.


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## boreas (Dec 4, 2007)

bitsandkits said:


> Your focusing on one element and missing the other stuff, besides metal weapons are often bent/warped out of shape, so its nothing new.


Still, I'm very curious. I'm used to working with FW resin, and most pieces can be straightened out easily. Metal can also, but is more prone to breakage.

Can the new resin be straightened as easily? With warm water or an hair dryer like FW resin?

Phil


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## MetalHandkerchief (Aug 3, 2009)

"Straightening out" FW resin is pointless, as it will bend back over time. That's why I'm curious to know if this resin is the same.


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## Maidel (Jun 28, 2009)

MetalHandkerchief said:


> "Straightening out" FW resin is pointless, as it will bend back over time. That's why I'm curious to know if this resin is the same.


???

My forge world wave serpent came with the 'crew bay' so warped it was nearly a figure 8.

10+ years on and its still the same shape as when I fixed it with a hair dryer.


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## boreas (Dec 4, 2007)

Depends on the thickness of the bit. My Inquisitor Hector Rex's sword always ends up bending back noticeably. Thicker pieces (eg my dread's autocannon arm's barrels) tend to stay straight.

Phil


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## Count_the_Seven (May 19, 2010)

Svart, I agree re quality and definition of detail is excellent, but a few words on flash: my DP o' Nurgle was covered in flash and had noticeable mouldlines. Took me an hour to clean up, but will also need greenstuff to fill big gaps on body sections.

All part of resin, I know from FW stuff... also, had a 40mm base in box but I think this mini needs the larger 50mm?

Overall, very pleased, but not perfect. 8/10


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## OpTi (Aug 29, 2009)

Count_the_Seven said:


> Svart, I agree re quality and definition of detail is excellent, but a few words on flash: my DP o' Nurgle was covered in flash and had noticeable mouldlines. Took me an hour to clean up, but will need greenstuff to fill big gaps on body sections.
> 
> All part of resin, I know from FW stuff... also, had a 40mm base in box but I think this mini needs the larger 50mm?
> 
> Overall, very pleased, but not perfect. 8/10


the old metal princes come on 40mm bases only the new plastic one comes on 60mm.

Also svart any chance you can get some snaps of the greater daemons? i want to pick one up for my chaos army, preferably tzeentch if possible


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## Count_the_Seven (May 19, 2010)

60mm, you say? Aah, ok...

It's a finecast - ie brand new - and image on back of box shows mini on a 60mm base.

I thought it might be a packaging error so flagged it up in my wee review.


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## alasdair (Jun 11, 2009)

Bought a fine cast ethereal today, and i am quite pleased with him. 

On the subject of bending the resign, the manager of the shop demonstrated how rgood it is, by getting a longstick of resin, putting it under hot water,and then bending it (and it set) in a figure eight.

So in conclusion, the new resin is great for bending. In fact, my friend was painting a model where the sword was in the way- he just bent it out the way so he couldmpaint the buts covered!


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## boreas (Dec 4, 2007)

Good to know!

Phil


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## Doelago (Nov 29, 2009)

Looks amazing. This finecast thing starts sounding/looking like a good idea actually. Really starting to like it.


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## Death Shroud (Mar 1, 2008)

Might have to pick that up for my Daemons army. Popped into GW Epsom and picked up Lelith Hesperax (to go with the unopened metal one I have) and Urien Rakarth. The detail on Lelith is excellent and the detail on Urien is staggering. Can't wait to get more finecast stuff. Good move GW!

Whilst everyone is excited about the lack of pinning and lighter weight of the larger models no one seems to have thought about the massively reduced likelyhood of painting chipping off. I have to go over several spots on my metal Bloodthirster even though he's only been in two games and spends most of his time in a foam case.

Happy days!


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## deathnote (Jul 19, 2010)

this may sound stupid but how do you put resin together ?? Ive never used it before and was wondering if it superglue or plastic glue?


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## IanC (Sep 3, 2010)

I got a Wood Elf Treeman (for fun really. But I might make a small Wood Elf force for my Brets) Had a bit of trouble, the legs needed a bit of bending but man it looks really good assembled.


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## Svartmetall (Jun 16, 2008)

deathnote said:


> this may sound stupid but how do you put resin together ?? Ive never used it before and was wondering if it superglue or plastic glue?


Superglue; it's a urethane-based resin but it's not actually a plastic, so plastic cement won't work.


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## deathnote (Jul 19, 2010)

Cool cheers Svart anything else i need to do RE prep work?


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## Svartmetall (Jun 16, 2008)

deathnote said:


> Cool cheers Svart anything else i need to do RE prep work?


You have to ritually cleanse yourself upon an altar of pure basalt, use only tools made of meteoric iron and make sure your modelling table is pointed at magnetic North, but otherwise you're good.


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## deathnote (Jul 19, 2010)

Svartmetall said:


> You have to ritually cleanse yourself upon an altar of pure basalt, use only tools made of meteoric iron and make sure your modelling table is pointed at magnetic North, but otherwise you're good.


:

so what you're saying is a typical friday night? i can do that :biggrin:
cheers +rep


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## Maidel (Jun 28, 2009)

Svartmetall said:


> You have to ritually cleanse yourself upon an altar of pure basalt, use only tools made of meteoric iron and make sure your modelling table is pointed at magnetic North, but otherwise you're good.


that doesnt work - my tools keep re-orienting themselves due south. Im having the sit on top of the table to use them!


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## Svartmetall (Jun 16, 2008)

Maidel said:


> that doesnt work - my tools keep re-orienting themselves due south.


 You used non-sanctioned tools from a...a..._a competitor_?!?! HERESY! Stay where you are. GW employees in black helicopters will be arriving shortly.


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## deathnote (Jul 19, 2010)

helicopters??? dont you mean Thunderhawks?


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## Maidel (Jun 28, 2009)

Svartmetall said:


> You used non-sanctioned tools from a...a..._a competitor_?!?! HERESY! Stay where you are. GW employees in black helicopters will be arriving shortly.


 
but, but, but - you TOLD me to use meteroic iron tools. GWs tools are made of plastic and steel.

I blame you! They wont catch me. Ive already set the house on fire and Im running for the hills!



PS - its a bloodly long run, I live in the middle of london - the hills are 10+ miles away!


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## Count_the_Seven (May 19, 2010)

Good luck, Maidel :biggrin:

I've just opened my second Finecast box and I can say they too have loads of flash on them. That said, I can see that human quality control is involved in the packaging as I have two left feet for Merry (LOTR Fellowship pack). One on the sprue and one attached to the mini - which has obviously been replaced after a bad moulding... 

Bonus points for attention to detail GW!


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## RehKal (Jan 15, 2011)

boreas said:


> Depends on the thickness of the bit. My Inquisitor Hector Rex's sword always ends up bending back noticeably. Thicker pieces (eg my dread's autocannon arm's barrels) tend to stay straight.
> 
> Phil


I've bought 9 sets of Tyranid Shrike wings from FW and uncurled/bent most of them outwards. Not a single one has ever bent back to it's "original" shape. They are very thin pieces. I think the thing to remember is you can't just heat up the pieces and expect them to stay put, you have to set them in the new position with cold (or icey) water for them to stay put permanently.


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## boreas (Dec 4, 2007)

RehKal said:


> I've bought 9 sets of Tyranid Shrike wings from FW and uncurled/bent most of them outwards. Not a single one has ever bent back to it's "original" shape. They are very thin pieces. I think the thing to remember is you can't just heat up the pieces and expect them to stay put, you have to set them in the new position with cold (or icey) water for them to stay put permanently.


I kow, The sword was completely bent over, but even after multiple (I men 10+ times) doing the "very-warm water then very cold water" ritual, it's still gets funny. When I started painting, it was 100% perfectly straight. After painting:

http://leblogboreas.blogspot.com/2009/06/inquisiteur-rex.html

So, I'm happy this new resin is better. BTW, I painting this two years ago, and damn, I've got to strip it and re-paint it properly!

Phil


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## DestroyerHive (Dec 22, 2009)

NOW he comes out in resin!!?? *sigh*

This guy was a real b**** to assemble...


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## Khargoth (Aug 5, 2010)

Major thing is with FW resin its elasticity means it responds better to big changes than small. Those hideously deformed pieces that were recovered probably sprung back a tiny bit during the cold set; that tiny amount on a sword that only needs a fine adjustment usually leaves it back where it started.


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## deathwatch27 (Dec 30, 2009)

So what about paint stripping a badly painted fine cast (even though there shouldn't be any on ebay yet). Would it be a problem? or drop it in house paint stripper and leave over nite?


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## Svartmetall (Jun 16, 2008)

deathwatch27 said:


> So what about paint stripping a badly painted fine cast (even though there shouldn't be any on ebay yet). Would it be a problem? or drop it in house paint stripper and leave over nite?


That's actually a good question, and the answer right now is "I'm not sure." The best thing to do would be stick some paint on a section of Finecast sprue, then drop it in whatever you'd normally use to strip paint off a plastic model and see what happens.


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## Daemon Prince Paintbox (Feb 21, 2011)

I love most daemon princes so when I went into GW looking to get a new fine cast, there was only one model to get: Nurgle Daemon Prince, as I wasn't going to replace the models I'd previously bought in metal.

Got a couple of commissions in the works but after that he's my next project.


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