# Stupid Questions About Flyer Base Assembly



## trunkburger (Sep 9, 2008)

I'm assembling my first Chaos Heldrake and have some questions about the base:

1) I notice that the clear plastic upright part has a tab at the bottom, and is also not flat on its wide end; am I supposed to cut off the tab and sand the wide end flat to fit against the base? (For gluing with plastic glue?) Or am I supposed to cut/drill into the base to make room for the tab?

2) Do I do anything to the hole for the upright on the underside of the heldrake (fill it, widen it, etc etc)? Or is it just left unfinished, and each time I use the heldrake I will plop it down on the plastic upright?


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

1) Shave the bottom and top flat and glue away on the base, no routing required.

2) Do nothing! It's good as it is as far as my three have been.


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## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

I ended up putting a little pin in the bottom of the clear base to give it a little extra strength but thats because I'm a paranoid mofo, it's not 100% percent necessary.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

To keep the answers in the same place, anyone have any good ideas for texturing/painting flyer bases?

When basing I usually attach the model, texture, spray undercoat, paint, then Testor's Hardcote for the added strength. However, without a mask, spraying anything will make the clear upright mucky.

Anyone had good/bad experiences with masking media, doing it all with a brush, or assembling after painting?


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## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

Thought about using simple masking tape?


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Jacobite said:


> Thought about using simple masking tape?


Might work if I spend some time trimming it to fit.


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## falcoso (Apr 7, 2012)

I guess depending on what you are doing on the base depends on how you would go about painting it, for instance if it is going to be piled high with cork plates/ ruins the it is probably better to put the stand on first and cover it in masking tape. If it is a farely sparse base that will based like most other models I would mark the outline of the stand and do the base as you would normally and just keep the outline free, then when the abse is done put the stand on properly


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

The issue with putting the stand on after basing is leaving enough space for a good bond without leaving a really obvious gap; with a normal miniature I can pin through the feet to make sure it is robust, but I cannot do that very easily with a clear stand so full contact is more important. It could be done, but it might be more effort than doing it the other way around.


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

I've been rolling this around in my mind and really taping it off is all you can do. Putting the stem on after basing, like you said, will likely result in an off look to the base or a weak join between the base and stem. You could also do a couple small pins in the centre of the stem, close to the thickest point of the plastic but that would be tedious. Everything about these bases is tedious it seems.

Just out of curiosity, what do you use to pin you models in place?


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

ntaw said:


> Just out of curiosity, what do you use to pin you models in place?


A box of 100 generic paperclips.

Cost £1.00

So far it has lasted me three years and it is still mostly full.


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## Creon (Mar 5, 2009)

Blue painter's tape.


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

Dave T Hobbit said:


> A box of 100 generic paperclips. Cost £1.00 So far it has lasted me three years and it is still mostly full.


:laugh: I guess just cut the right size piece out of the clip, eh?

Amazing.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

ntaw said:


> :laugh: I guess just cut the right size piece out of the clip, eh?
> 
> Amazing.


Just so.


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