# Blackadder's FW Chaos Warhound Build



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I debated whether to append this to the Lucius scratchbuilt Warhound thread or start a new thread. There will be a side by side comparison of Lucie my scratchbuilt to the various components of an actual Forge World titan which should prove interesting and hopefully I will not be tearing out too much hair over grievous discrepancies. 

I opted for the Chaos version because considering FW's propensity for less than perfect castings I figured this would be so much less noticeable on something that is supposed to be outrageously deformed. 

That and I just think the Chaos version is the more interesting of the Mars Pattern. 

I'll be posting images as soon as I get over the initial excitement of ownership of a real FW Warhound.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Below is the initial opening of the shipment carton with the top sheet of bubble wrap removed. I suppose FW tested the durability of the various pieces of brittle resin and arrived at the optimum packaging and shipping procedure that all components survive the ministrations of the erstwhile USPS package handlers. 

To the untrained eye the contents look like they were unceremoniously just dumped into the box. 


Unpacking the container revealed the only thing reasonably protected was the instructions and certificate of ownership.


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## Mossy Toes (Jun 8, 2009)

Oh Throne.

_Another_ one?

Wonderful.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah I like to keep things hopping or I get bored............

Below is the initial opening of the shipment carton with the top sheet of bubble wrap removed. I suppose FW tested the durability of the various pieces of brittle resin and arrived at the optimum packaging and shipping procedure that all components survive the ministrations of the erstwhile UPS package handlers.

To the untrained eye the contents look like they were unceremoniously just dumped into the box.
http://i.imgur.com/vIdWF.jpg 









Unpacking the container revealed the only thing reasonably protected was the instructions and certificate of ownership.
http://i.imgur.com/p3wCM.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

You are working on this and a scratch build warlord!! You are a glutton for punishment, have you thought of a paint scheme for it? I'm looking forward to seeing this complete.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Oldman78 said:


> You are working on this and a scratch build warlord!! You are a glutton for punishment, have you thought of a paint scheme for it? I'm looking forward to seeing this complete.


I'm open to suggestions but yes I do have a scheme in mind.....

Your input would not be amiss though............


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

imho it should complement but not match your main colour scheme, for example my blood angels (one day maybe) will have a Blue and Red Titan


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The first order of business and to address something I am dying to know is how well did my best guesstimate of the size and shape of the weapons compare to a FW original? I had to use my best estimate in relative size for virtually all aspects of my scratchbuilt Wolf Warhound having never seen one in the flesh ..er ah resin that is and it has always been a source of consternation how Lucie would measure up to the real Mcoy.

I know even from the pictures later acquired on the web that Lucie has more robust legs in cross-section than the regulation titan and that changes I made to the carapace and hull give her a more massive appearance but that was intentional. The major concern was the weapons, head, waist and feet.


http://i.imgur.com/70y20.jpg 









Well for the weapons at least........... aside from the caliber of the megabolter its a pretty good match


http://i.imgur.com/kb0Ik.jpg 









I am very please that there is no significant discrepancy, whew!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

An addenda to the last post, there is significant difference with my turbo laser compared to the FW original. It appears my laser's caliber is less than and (this really gets me) my infrared sight is longer? 

Referring to the bottom view I had no image to go by so my detail is sparse compared to the real McCoy. But I think I can live with it.

http://i.imgur.com/6v0xz.jpg 









http://i.imgur.com/6u38y.jpg 









http://i.imgur.com/sfmaO.jpg 









More comparisons to follow even if they reveal further discrepancies.

:Blush


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

It took me a moment to realize which one was forgeworld....


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Meanwhile Lucie sustained a wee bit of battle damage and I can use this time to repair and upgrade her attached pieces to rare-earth magnets and remove the tape and Velcro adherents. 

http://i.imgur.com/NGAIw.jpg


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

I couldn't work out which was FW and which was 'home made', I'm so impressed!!

I'm very surprised they are so close from only pictures


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Hellados said:


> I couldn't work out which was FW and which was 'home made', I'm so impressed!!
> 
> I'm very surprised they are so close from only pictures


You're not the only one, I almost fell of the chair when I saw how close I came; pure luck I assure you.


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## gearhart (Oct 18, 2011)

Blackadder said:


> You're not the only one, I almost fell of the chair when I saw how close I came; pure luck I assure you.




cough cough* Yours look better  haha cant wait to see how close they look all built and standing next to each other haha


sincerely Gearhart


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Since the image host I was using no longer supports my images I have to repost a lot of the lost work on this new host.

I took new pictures and am incorporating the renovation modifications to Lucie so as not to bore those that have seen the original posts

I am also including a side by side comparison with a FW original albeit a Chaos Mars Pattern bit the mechanical components are virtually the same.

http://i.imgur.com/6DG2V.jpg 









First the head, the strange rings behind the head are the gymbal I made to allow the head to swivel back and forth and up and down a feature not included in the FW model but hey they included an interior!

Next a profile view of the neck mechanism and head with a relative size comparison:

http://i.imgur.com/zWG7g.jpg 









Finally a closer view of the neck pieces, what the hey I took the picture why not post it:

http://i.imgur.com/EX6s4.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Your work is mind bendingly brilliant, I prefare your weapons to be honest I think the smaller calibre on the mega bolter is better and the more slender barrels on the turbo laser too, I think the F.W ones look a bit to heavy for the titans. Fantastic fantastic fantastic +rep


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks, I believe so as well. It's always bothered me about the extreme caliber size of the FW weapons making the hand carried weapons grotesquely huge and the titan weapons ridiculously out of believable scale. With the titans it diminishes their size impact IMHO for without reference figures you cannot fathom how huge they are supposed to be judging by the weapon caliber. I deliberately scaled down the bore on my warlord's main guns and with Lucie I used my best guess on what looked right for a vehicle that size.


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

tbh I'm not too sure how much gun calibre would come up to the guys in Northampton, gun usage isn't very high in those parts 

but what you're saying does make sense, smaller guns makes the models look bigger... dunno why they didn't think of that, perhaps they need someone to help them make the models LMFAO


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Well here it is; the first documented proof of insanity in my family. Not only have I purchased a Chaos Warhound for my son last Christmas but I bid and won one for myself just recently and to compound the mania I bid on a Lucius Pattern Wolf Warhound from Russia and I won that one as well. Someone stop me before I can no longer afford to support the national debt.............

Now I'm gonna have to sell my kids for scientific experiments............

On the plus side I do have a comparison of my scratch work to a real bona fide Lucius Pattern Warhound............

On the minus side there are discrepancies.

http://i.imgur.com/otufW.jpg 









http://i.imgur.com/N0FiK 









http://i.imgur.com/NYBk7.jpg 









http://i.imgur.com/3RZZj.jpg


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Yours is the painted one correct?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah; do you know that the white stuff on Brie is matted fungus? I didn't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Yours looks better and while I did not know it was matted, i did know it was fungus.


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## Septok (Jan 21, 2012)

Have I walked into the thread at a weird time? Because I swear this isn't a Chaos Cheesehound build.

Great work as always though. But I am worried that you'll soon have an army of Warhounds. And I'm not talking 40k - I'm saying world-scale. You'll have them taken over (Omnissiah?) and they'll overrun every military on Earth.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

You know my position on forging and copyright violations and hell I don't even buy 'Luk' gasoline. 

I looked the images over closely on ebay and other than the resin colour which FW used for some of their models (I have a FW Baneblade cast in Axson F16, resin that I'm sure isn't a forgery). I certainly didn't want a knockoff inferior casting. 

If you look closely in the far right of the image there are what appears to be the conduits cast in black neoprene and the cooling compartment screen of the proper size and shape. as the original FW models used to come with; not cast resin as they do now.










On receiving the model my son and I inspected the pieces carefully for evidence of recasting but: all the pieces were there, were crisp edged, not warped, and fit perfectly together with no bubbles or missing detail (Hmmm that should have been a clue; FW models don't ever arrive like that.)

If its a copy its damned better than the average original. 

I took it to be that someone bought it a while ago, saw it was beyond their modeling ability and wisely put it aside instead of botching it up and finally decided to liquidate it for financial reasons.

Now I see that theres another from the same seller using exactly the same image..............

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-F.../251191546051?pt=Games_US&hash=item3a7c2ed0c3 

which has aroused my suspicions.

Other than the weird colour (the actual model is a much more beige hue similar to the production Baneblade) What is it to you that indicates it is an illegal cast :question:?.


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## Septok (Jan 21, 2012)

Blackadder said:


> Other than the weird colour (the actual model is a much more beige hue similar to the production Baneblade) What is it to you that indicates it is an illegal cast :question:?.


A lack of FW bags? And does it usually come cast with that kind of resin?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Well the lack of original bags is not so strange. I removed the pieces from the bags on receipt as well and separated the parts in a logical order as it seemed to me and deposited them in my own zip lock pouches. As for the resin I have an extremely early FW Baneblade cast in almost white resin and another cast in a slightly darker yellow beige than the Warhound in question but both are undoubtedly original FW products. The Chaos titan produced last year is substantially a darker gray than the one purchased this year.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Its time gentlemen for another helpful hint from Héloise AKA the Blackadder.

Today regarding a bit kitchen esoterica known as a 'melon baller'. This device serves the useless purpose of gouging out spheroid shaped lumps of melon thereby rendering half the consumable portion melon as waste and also eliminating the hazard of a diner cutting his mouth on a sharp edged piece of melon that has been cut into bite-sized but unsightly non-standardized cubes.










Let us now see if this rather superfluous device can be employed to a useful purpose.

As you know I am pathologically fixated on making the joints of my model movable (for whatever purpose but the fun is in stimulating my brain cells with these little problems).

I have searched the hardware stores for thin hollow steel spheres to incorporate into the articulated sockets of the various pieces of model joints. 

While clearing out the kitchen drawer I found this little gadget that I don't believe I have ever seen used.

What ho sayeth I, the very thing I seek what's more they are readily available in dollar stores, Amazon and ebay all for a couple of buck each including shipping............ I found the yellow handled one for $1.25 plus shipping $1.63

Just the thing to partner the rare earth magnets installed in the opposite component of the socket.

http://i.imgur.com/PG5KD.jpg 









BTW the brown smutchz in the cup is rust.......... Rust is good; it means the steel is magnetic.

i.imgur.com/CKjgC.jpg 











keep you eyes open and check wifey's equipment stash. She may have just what you are looking for............. Ahem..........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder's Chaos Warhounds:

I have become incredibly ambitious. After cleaning, priming and basic painting the Hierophant and waiting for the paint to dry I looked around for something else to work on. My son is coming home from college for ten days this month so I thought I'd surprise him by cleaning the flash, vents and manufacturing errors on our two Chaos Titans. We are at odds as to what theme to paint them I lean more to a mottled green and he to a red. I don't suppose that they have to match colour-wise. I would appreciate input in this regard.

This is the colouration I have chosen for my Chaos Titan with a few amendments.

http://i.imgur.com/DdKhvcX.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/LkMwqBI.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/If9uCUT.jpg









Anyway it took me about two hours each to trim of the non-titan material and they are ready to paint. No pictures as yet as we have all seen kit form Chaos Titans and I have the parts separated in zip lock sandwich bags. I am very enthused about tackling a Chaos interior since the Tyranid army has many similar aspects.


Here's a little quiz to see of you can qualify as an aircraft inspector.

Take a close look at the nicely painted titan above and see why it always looked strange to me I just couldn't put my finger on it; the problem being you expect things to be as they are supposed to be.

Closer inspection revealed six major mistakes in the build................

See if you can find them (Note left and right hand anomalies count as one; multiple anomalies of the same parts count as one.)

Note, the sixth one is toughest to find


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## whittsy (Feb 8, 2013)

I.... This... Uhm.... I.... Ahhhh...

.....

You win. Everyone else give up.

+rep. Or I would but I have already given you rep.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Ah it's too soon to present my list.

Hint: five of the discrepancies involve the legs.

Three involve parts installed upside down.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

No Chaos Turbo Laser

There is no Turbo laser for the FW Chaos Warhound so I have to make one. Not as easy as it may seem; there's a fine line between too little and too much distressing I hope I haven't exceeded it. Of course once its all a homogeneous colour it won't look as bad and I need so Chaos style icons to dress it up and of course the webbing between the components.

I'm starting the subsurface ligaments at the moment......

http://i.imgur.com/AyqXGWR.jpg









It's kind of fun ruining 60 buck worth of resin....

Not!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

And So It Begins:

After a diligent search I have finally come up with a theme for my Chaos Warhound. Not surprisingly courtesy of my mentor in absentia,

Buypainted's Jaro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcOtFcIGuXw

I'v been searching for the right green and metal motif and while it isn't a Warhound it is Chaos a vehicle scheme that should be easily adapted to the Warhound.

So first a coat of Flat Black Prime: 

http://i.imgur.com/HAO7XGL.jpg









I use aerosol acetone/ toluene based primer instead of the acrylic water soluble primer for 1, it's compatible with both resin and acrylics and 2, it's a lot cheaper. 

Note I did not try to cover completely with one coat; a couple of thin coats are better than one heavy coat which takes longer to dry and the thick paint obscures the fine detail.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Just a note to keep this thread updated. 

On the 13th June I ordered the requisite material to paint and finish the 'Chaos Warhound' the actual assembly of which is relatively simple now that I have all the parts cleaned and inventoried. I would like to at least index the leg components so a variety of poses will be possible contingent on the durability of the material. I cannot hope for the flexibility of 'Lucie" of course but some alternate positioning should be possible given the availability of threaded hardware and rare earth magnets.

So whilst I am waiting for the paint perhaps I should demonstrate how I intend to articulate the model.


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## neferhet (Oct 24, 2012)

Yes, please. Show and tell :good:


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Well the road to hell is paved with good intentions; I completely forgot I was going to articulate this model. And I missed answering a subscriber. Dang!

My apologies.....

Blackadder Paints a Chaos Warhound:

Whilst I have the paints set up for the Warlord I might as well prep the Chaos Warhound for painting as well.

The model was first primed with generic Walmart $0.99 cents a can grey primer followed by Walmart $0.99 cents a can flat black.

http://i.imgur.com/OUSaVPo.jpg









Now I've applied AV Model Air German Grey thinned 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol.

http://i.imgur.com/XIT8E7c.jpg









Since I don't have a Chaos army but I've always wanted to paint this model cadaverous green I figure I'll steal Jaro's paint scheme because....

1, It's the best I've seen. 

and B, It's exactly the way I would have done it had I the artistic talent.

The trouble his Warhound looks like a Forgefiend.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

POS Warhound:

Bet I'll raise some hackles with that title 

What I am attempting to say is I ought to have my head examined using a Warhound for practice as if it were worthless just so I can refine my technique when I tackle my Warlord. 

http://i.imgur.com/xp7pfS6.jpg









My reason being that painting a Chaos model you can hardly make a grievous mistake (within reason) and being resin the paint can be easily removed plus the airbrush applies paint so thinly that repainting doesn't appreciably obliterate detail. (again within reason)

So today after applying grey highlighting to the black base coat I started spraying on the main colour Vallejo AV Model Air Light Grey Green.

I used a 50/50 mix of paint to Isopropyl alcohol which is fabulous passing through my airbrush.

http://i.imgur.com/57i7yaA.jpg









Following Jaro's example I am not concerned with total coverage because the stains and washes will take up the gaps. What I want my Chaos model to have is a mottled surface in accord with the decrepit look of the Chaos genera. 

So While I learn I will be posting my successes and failures as a tutorial for those enjoy watching train wrecks...........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Sticking My Neck Out:

Blackadder is putting his neck on the block posting these images because I'm sure flagrant violations of good sense and technique abound in my painting. 

http://i.imgur.com/DSdNf31.jpg









The first error has already been pointed out to me; I am painting the individual parts instead of the assembled model.

http://i.imgur.com/nfypNzG.jpg









Why this is a problem has not manifested itself to me yet but I am sure the awful truth will make itself evident summarily.

http://i.imgur.com/nVYPydQ.jpg









So anyone (and I am sure there are many that are saying, "He's headed for a fall.") that can offer a reasonable critique be advised, "Here's your chance." 

Just an update; about 75% of the model has been coated with the main colour thus far.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Harder Than it Looks:

I've viewed with appetite others work with green stuff but have rarely had a necessity for working with it myself 

Until today! 

What I am attempting to do is convert a Mars Turbo Laser into a Chaos facsimile by distressing, gouging and generally effing up what heretofore was a pretty good casting by FW standards of the weapon that is not offered for Chaos Warhounds.

Well working with GreenStuff is harder than it looks not because the sculpting is actually hard but the stuff is extremely sticky. I made the mistake of letting it sit on my desk top and it adhered itself almost instantly! Now I have a stain on my writing desk.

It sticks with great avidity to my sculpting tools, my Xacto blades everything in fact except where I want to apply it where it perversely refuses to adhere.

Anyway after fighting with the stuff for what seems hours I managed to get it where I wanted in a reasonable fashion 

http://i.imgur.com/zEJXGQ1.jpg









and let it sit for a while.

After what I thought was a judicious length of time I figure it was set enough to work the other side of the housing but no the stuff apparently needs a lot of curing time as although seemingly stable to the touch it is still quite malleable. 

http://i.imgur.com/TgPAMyt.jpg









So a tip of my hat to GreenStuff sculptors, You earn my applause.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Magnets, Magnets, Magnets:

This thing is gonna be held together with magnets any place I can justify putting them (No innuendos please....)

It started with the waist to hip block where I have two 18 MM dia. by 3 MM thick Neodymium Magnets held in place with GreenStuff. 

http://i.imgur.com/vRLoPOF.jpg









The neck joint has two 12 MM dia by 3 MM to hold the head on.

http://i.imgur.com/lu2P1hX.jpg









The weapons will be interchangeable being 2 Plasma Cannons, a Megabolter and a Turbo Laser.

Naturally the carapace and head armour will be held on with magnets also the greaves, waist and thigh armour and the interior center bulkhead. That's about all for now until I get to the final assembly.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Vallejo Black Metal:

I had intended to use powdered Graphite (the stuff ya used to lubricate the axles of yer PineWood Derby racers) for my interior work but the Vallejo Model Air Black Metal 71.073 seems to do the job excellently. 

The first image in flash was too intense

http://i.imgur.com/509Trup.jpg









So macro shots in natural light seems the way to go.

http://i.imgur.com/sHI3OwY.jpg









Right now after my initial coat of black spray paint I highlighted the larger flat areas with Vallejo Model Air AV German Grey 71.052 followed by Vallejo Model Air AV Lt Grey Green 71.044 with my airbrush.

Just for brevity let's assume that all the paint mentioned below and from now on unless otherwise stipulated will be:

Vallejo Model Air AV paints, I'll just give the colour and the stock number.

http://i.imgur.com/MEzwe5z.jpg









This morning I dry-brushed 'Steel' 71.065 onto the still black areas and Black Metal onto the Lt Grey/Green 71.044 panels.

http://i.imgur.com/yY9oJku.jpg









So far that's the only painting done to these pieces and I think the effect is passable.

http://i.imgur.com/2aVwUp1.jpg









It's a shame to obfuscate the wealth of detail of this Chaos interior with gobs of paint as is seen on most of the images I've pulled up on 'google images' so I will be dry-brushing all the colours I apply to the interior just to highlight the detail.

http://i.imgur.com/leb7AVd.jpg









I got a bit sloppy on the vent screen above; the brush was a tad too wet. Damn!

http://i.imgur.com/X4W5ZOb.jpg









The two servitors came out fine; How ever do they mould these intricate details!??????


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Interminable Interior:

I worked for two hours today dry-brushing various colours into the pieces. I had to learn how to apply rust as a highlight.

http://i.imgur.com/ZYmzLMj.jpg











http://i.imgur.com/jUhPYnm.jpg











http://i.imgur.com/Xfo881C.jpg









These ceiling pieces came out better than expected even in the camera shots AV Model Air Rust 71.069 did a good job in this area.

http://i.imgur.com/d147k3f.jpg









The rust in this area is a big disappointment and has to be redone.

http://i.imgur.com/MDjPXca.jpg









The servators still need bone white highlighting.

http://i.imgur.com/NUB52yl.jpg









This guy is my favorite, I have to leave the center bulkhead removable so he can be seen. This still needs AV Game Color Bone White 72.034 highlighting over Citadel Base Rakarth Flesh.

http://i.imgur.com/iwpmas8.jpg









Perhaps tomorrow I'll be able to introduce a bit of colour to this drab interior.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder"s Subtifuge:

Sorry but it's just impossible to take a decent image of these interiors without a bit of photoshopping. The images without flash are too dark and out of focus and with a flash are too washed out so I employed my editor to give what I believe is the most colour true and accurate real life image I can manage.

directly below is the cockpit and while the ganglia and appendages are a tad washed out the overall image is a true as I can make them to real light and colour value.

http://i.imgur.com/JkVxGeU.jpg









This next image of the Tech Priest is the best of dozens of trial images which unfortunately does not display the the wealth of detail in this area. I acknowledge that the gold trim above the figure still needs quite a bit of work...........

http://i.imgur.com/cx0V8du.jpg









Finally the poor dude on the back bulkhead has seen better days but at least the colour and darkness value is as true as my poor editor can produce.

http://i.imgur.com/UV7SEQR.jpg









Let me state for the record my son and I are at odds about the conduits attached to the appendages of the the crew of the vehicle.

He maintains that the connections are wire and I believe they represent ganglia so therefore his Warhound will be red and blue wires and my connections will be bone white as I believe look more like organic nerve ganglia. 

I also opted to dry brush the web-like connective tissue Rakarth Flesh with bone white highlights whereas he has not addressed the problem as yet.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

what justice you are doing to this terrific model.


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## LordMolnar (Mar 28, 2008)

Looking good! 

How's the articulation working out? I have a similar project that I'd like to steal your melon baller idea for...

Also, as for the color of the resin referenced earlier in this thread, it was not uncommon for FW in the past to use a variety of colors of resin. I got a Heirophant titan from them once and it was in about five different colors.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Make sure you get a cheap chrome plated steel melon-baller and not one made of stainless steel. This is one time where cheaper is better.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

In Demigod We Rust:

The basic coat of rust is applied of which this is a fair sampling I'm using Vallejo AV Model Air Rust 71.080 50/50 paint to alcohol which seems a bit light for rust colour but once the black wash is on it will darken. While eventually the entire model will be getting a dusting of dry rust pigments I feel certain cancerous areas need this extra painting of corrosion in the deeper wounds.

Once all the painted rusting is in place I will try highlighting the subcutaneous ganglia etc, with Rakarth Flesh and Bone White.


http://i.imgur.com/aGSSHIB.jpg









Vallejo also makes a metallic rust but I don't like the sparkly look. Rust shouldn't sparkle.

http://i.imgur.com/HaG5CFI.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Supricating Pustules:

Well google let me down; there is no such word as _'supricating'_ according to google so I guess I've spawned a neologism. 

Supricate: to ooze a noxious amniotic fluid from an ulcer or cyst; Gagggg!

The abscesses are coming along nicely and I should be ready to begin assembly tomorrow. Virtually all the painting is done and I can apply the washes when the model is in one piece. 

Here's a barrage of images that should be self-explanatory; I beg your pardon for the poor quality:

http://i.imgur.com/oZxzs2H.jpg









I'm looking into purchasing a light box for photographing....

http://i.imgur.com/dQ9s7hb.jpg









Same picture different light source not much better but it's the sores we're interested in.

http://i.imgur.com/BIljbSV.jpg









I'm rather pleases how the living tissue turned out it's even more repulsive than my Tyranids. Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/BahV1nK.jpg









Once the washes are applied the wounds will take on a wetter appearance I'm hoping.

http://i.imgur.com/JmO5OsJ.jpg









The ganglia is Citadel 'Rakarth Flesh' highlighted with AV 'Bone White' all dry brushed on.

http://i.imgur.com/b4xFCBy.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

No One Move, I Dropped My Contact Lens:

I had to try this because the most obvious image that came to my mind was Peter Jackson's 'Eye of Sauron' for the waist shield orb.

Well all the colours are there but I think it needs to be a gif to make it come alive. I do have to shrink the highlight a bit. 































It still needs a little more drybrushing.

And Eyewash............


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

That is truly awesome... if only there was a way to apply two colour iridescent paint in such a way that the eye moves depending on how you look at it...


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Ya know there is a technique the 19th century masters used in their paintings that the eyes follow you as you move about the room. Imaging that without resorting to holographic projections. Thanks for the idea...........

A Running Pose:

So I begin the assembly of the legs. I have and idea for a dynamic pose where the two feet are pretty much in line as if the Titan was stalking in a running pose.

http://i.imgur.com/PJrQwSO.jpg









I started by drilling tight holes for the toe bases so the bases can twist in their sockets as the foot was designed to do. I fact I was not aware of where I built the toes for Lucie many years ago. 

http://i.imgur.com/CMIfrwp.jpg









The trailing foot will be flexed with heel spur in the air and the front toes bent to their extreme flexed position. 

http://i.imgur.com/pqqyIFc.jpg









I will be drilling and pinning the toe joins next.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Looking excellent as always Mr. Adder.

Your titan needs a little "Sauron Inside" emblem.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Dynamics of Stride:

In preparation for this 'on the fly' pose I am instituting a procedure heretofore unknown at least to me of allowing the feet and toes to be posed prior to assembly and gluing.

I drilled and pinned the toe joins so they can remain flexible until I have stabilized the quick striding stance; then this model will have when glued frozen in one pose.

http://i.imgur.com/U9JCbhC.jpg









I have in mind the T' Rex pursuit in 'Jurassic Park' where it is bearing down on the fleeing jeep feet and toes in tandem rather than the typical sprawled pose seen in most Warhound displays.

http://i.imgur.com/Jhg69ay.jpg









Naturally this pose will require some very fine tuning for balance considering the relative center of masses of a T' Rex vis–à–vis a Warhound the Warhound's center of gravity being so much higher than that of the Rex.

I'm not even sure such a pose is possible without resorting to a permanent pad affixed to the feet which will seriously detract from the visual effect of the model.

In studying the spore of Mesozoic Theropods the striding gait appears to be pigeon-toed at least in some instances see below. I probably won't be representing this unless necessary for balance which is probably why the dinosaur predator is intermittently adopting that foot placement. Almost every step a bipedal organism takes (including we humans) involves literally falling forward and using the step forward to catch and balance to keep us from falling on our face.

The second problem is the lack of the counterbalancing tail that the T' Rex enjoyed but not so with the Warhound. Some lead or gold in the rear void generators may be in order to compensate for the front heaviness of the pose. 

I have an idea for placement of these that may add to balancing the overall model side to side as well. 

In all the procedure should prove an interesting tour de force.










Note the cigarette butt in the footprint immediately above this sentence; proof that mentally challenged humanoids and dinosaurs co-existed?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Unhappy Household Hints from The Blackadder

To keep harmony in the household I suggest you purchase this item instead of stealing it from your spouse's utensil drawer.

If a cheap nonstainless melon baller is in the drawer I suggest you dazzle your wife with an upscale stainless baller. Makes a nice b'day gift.

http://i.imgur.com/cC0M9Cd.jpg









Here we see an inexpensive chrome plated baller about a buck fifty mind you the cheaper the better as we want mild steel.

Note the 1 inch cup fits the neck gimbal perfectly and is plenty strong enough to support the head.

http://i.imgur.com/xL9P2rk.jpg










A couple of seconds with a hack saw and a file and the deed is done.

http://i.imgur.com/Et0zWGA.jpg









Install the cup between the two magnets used for the head attachment 

http://i.imgur.com/20UesYU.jpg










You may have to sand paper the cup to rough up the surface but you can readily see the range of motion afforded by this mechanism.

(Note the conduit collar was left off for clarity in these images.)






































I wanted the ability for the head to look down as it is pertinent to the pose I have in mind.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

More thoughts on.......

Ambulatory Dynamics:

Okay I've pretty much decided on the stance which will be similar to the image below except the trailing foot (The right foot Blue arrow ) will have the toes in contact with the ground.

http://i.imgur.com/GEqVh14.jpg









The hips will be canted in towards the centerline ( Red arrows) and the ankles will be slightly twisted in ( Green arrow ) so the width of the gait will be quite narrow instead of the way most Warhounds are displayed. 

Most of the weight of the model will be centered above the left foot which will be fully in contact with the ground ( Left Blue arrow )

The overall motion representation will be similar to the image below:










although the feet will be positioned in this manner:










From the side the stance will resemble this:










Excepting it will be a Chaos Warhound of course.


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Good thoughts! I have always wondered how Titans walked since their feet are so far apart. It will be great to see this finished!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Nice to see that someone else is bothered by how these d'mned things can walk.

The Puppet Master:

Or The Chicken Dance: 

I can't decide what to title this entry. To get the proper pose and hopefully balance I temporarily articulated the entire model. It came out so well I may just display it with the waist support rod and call it done but naturally not in the "Legs fully extended" as it is right now.

http://i.imgur.com/dt1Dqm9.jpg









It needs to hunker down for a more menacing appearance but I thought it would be amusing to see it in the initial pose stage. 

It's Déjà vu all over again articulating one of these constructs as 'Lucie' went through the same evolutions when she was built. Of course Lucie took me two years instead of a couple days to reach this point There's a lot to be said for not scratchbuilding. 

My big concern is the hip joints as they are opposite the normal Warhound stance and I wanted to see if they appeared comical flexed down as they are.

http://i.imgur.com/Ba5e1tD.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Problem of Commitment:

Part of the reason I go to such lengths to mechanize my model is I do have a problem with commitment.

Therefore the Rare Earth magnets are right up my alley. 

The accompanying photos show how I have circumvented my phobia to the extreme by actually attaching the heavy void generators to the hull using four really strong magnets which give the added benefit on complete interior access should the need arise. 


http://i.imgur.com/73zeVVZ.jpg










http://i.imgur.com/A5B8ueW.jpg









Once the resin dries I'll be able to assemble the model and disassemble it at my whim.

And that's a good thing right?


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

If you want to transport it, yes. 

Looks really good. How did you tackle the pistons on the feet btw? Aren't they a royal pain in the neck if you want to do sub assembly painting?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I need to get all the top-hamper done first before I complete the hydraulics on the legs and feet as re-positioning may be necessary to maintain the balance. I shall be covering the piston problems in depth when I reach that stage.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Monopoly?

"We don't care; we don't have to We're a Monopoly." The GW/FW motto? 

My son informed me of a problem he is having with his Chaos Warhound. The material is too shiny to hold paint.

Now don't say it has to be cleaned and the mold release medium has to be cleaned off. No there is not a trace of oil or residue on any of the parts but paint, prime acrylic or toluene based does not adhere. I've tried all the tricks I know including applying a dull spray on finish prior to applying primer and nothing ''NOTHING!'' sticks. I even washed a few pieces in the dishwasher, NOT RECOMMENDED!!!!!

Well if anyone has had this problem with Forge World Resin I have a solution but first I would like to hear from anyone else who has this problem and how they resolved it.


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## Zion (May 31, 2011)

Have you tried lightly sanding it to scuff the surface a bit?

Beyond that I'd try calling FW and explaining the problem and see if they'll replace things.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Resin Resilience:

Thanks to all those who have offered suggestions regarding paint adherence but I have tried every one suggested and a few not suggested e.g. muriatic acid, nothing worked. For those that suggested sending back to FW after two years I doubt I could even find the receipt. Getting replacement parts from FW is like pulling teeth what it would be like replacing 90% of a model I couldn't hazard a guess but I suspect it would be nigh impossible.

Fortunately I do have a large compressor and a 60 dollar sandblasting kit from Sears' 'Craftsman' and a bag of 'play' sand were all that were needed to resolve the dilemma. I hope.

Sandblasting lightly imparts a dull finish to the large flat surfaces and the small particles get into the fine crevasses sufficiently to give a passable adhesion surface. 

Once I get a few pieces done I'll supply an update on the progress and the efficacy of the fix. 

Again thanks for all the responses.


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

Hmm I didn't see this question before, but I have not experienced a similar issue myself. I hope you find a solution as it sucks, to not be able to paint your model for fear of the paint slippinp off!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah once painted with a good primer (not the cheap stuff I usually use) and have the paint slough off just by rubbing it lightly is a bummer. Hopefully the sandblasting will do the trick.


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

Let me know how it goes - Otherwise I will try and see if I can't dig up something else.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Shiny FW Crap:

Well the cold weather is finally here so I can apply myself to correcting odious casting mistakes from ForgeWorld. It was much too warm for someone of my metabolism to attempt to sandblast over the Summer working up a sweat whilst covered with sandblasting gear is not my idea of a good time. So this week I set up my sandblasting equipment in the spare bath, opened the windows donned mask and breather, long sleeve turtleneck, gloves and skullcap and hunkered down for the duration. Virtually every large piece of my son's FW Chaos Warhound was so shiny with resin that the paint would not adhere. 

I hit upon the idea of sandblasting the surface shine to a dull matte finish in hopes of making the surface conducive to holding pigment.

Allow me to caution purchasers of FW resin products. Inspect the pieces you receive and if they are slickly shiny return and or apply to FW for replacements (Good Luck With That!) because unless you have 300 bucks worth of sandblasting equipment and the patience of Job you have been duly screwed by Forge World.

How any company that charges exorbitant prices for resin models can have such poor quality control beggars credulity. I purchased this model a couple of years ago as a Xmas present for my son, this summer he decided to start painting and found no primer or spray paint would adhere to the castings no matter how much washing with detergent, spirits, soaps, acids whatever would leave a surface amenable to paint. Finally sandblasting was the only option left.

Do yourself a favor and inspect your items as soon a received and notify FW of the Cr-p immediately.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Prognosis Positive:

Well sandblasting did the trick but it is indeed disappointing that such extreme measures have to be exercised on a model costing close to $600 BUCKS! Were I not in the possession of a basic sandblaster and compressor I would have been thoroughly shagged and I know of many who having purchased expensive FW models who have put off rushing into building them for years after purchase until building skills improve. 

Now to be fair I did not contact FW for replacement parts, I don't know what the time limit on their responsibility would be but I am sure it doesn't extend to over two years. I have a feeling that they would not be amenable to replacing over half the components anyway so 'caveat emptor' prevailed and I relied on impromptu modeling abilities to prevail in this situation.

Thanks to all who made suggestions on remedying this and now as I apply the first coat of primer (make that REapply the first coat of primer) I make a mental note of how not to be put in this situation in the future.


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

Glad to hear you found a solution man - The situation thoroughly sucked, and I think anyone with the possibility of spending 600$ on FW will have learn from your experiences.

Have a cookie for a good way to avoid it!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I try to put myself in the position of a new-to-modeling beginner confronted with a defeating situation. Where do you turn to get help in resolving these problems? I hope by trying to second guess the issues that would confound the novice I can increase the enjoyment of the hobby.

That's why my threads are (I hope) more than just a "Look what I can do," tour de force but instead a sincere effort to demonstrate building techniques. As always I encourage any questions from readers interested in my perspective on how they might resolve their modeling issues.

Thanks for the reply,


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder said:


> More thoughts on.......
> 
> Ambulatory Dynamics:
> 
> ...


Ha!

Who said "Life imitates art" or rather more to the point in this case science imitates your's truly; The Blackadder. I found this video related to the dynamics of bipedal dinosaurs walking that has completely usurped my ideas.

X-Rays of Birds Making Footprints Reveal Dinosaursâ€™ Walk | Video

Well you saw it here first is my self salving consolation.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Fabrica Redux:

Now that that little item of paint adherence has been allayed we can resume the fabrication of the model's joining surfaces.

http://i.imgur.com/oEdab3c.jpg









I'm going to use magnets again to attach the various major components since it worked so well with the other Chaos Warhound built previously on this thread.


I try to document the steps better this time because I know now that the process will work whereas before I was trodding unknown territory.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Magnets Instead of Pins:

As you may well know the Blackadder is never satisfied with his work so he has to make allowances for his mania by assembling his models so they can be made better at some future date. 

And so discovered Rare Earth Magnets which are tailor made to accommodate his compulsive disorder. 

The below image shows the pencil marks and scale used to precisely position the magnets on the after hull component to the Void Generator housings. 

I used the rear hull angles to demarcate where I would position the center of the magnet and for convenience the width of the scale for the second center coordinate. 

After drilling and gluing in the hull magnets I positioned the rear hull on the Generator housing and traced the rear hull angles onto the housing(s). 

Then using my scale again (See image foreground housing) and allowing for pencil point width I marked the housing magnet center position. 

http://i.imgur.com/cVnnWzf.jpg









I then center cut a tiny pin hole with my #11 xacto tip (foreground housing) and drilled a pilot hole as in the housing upper left in the image below.

http://i.imgur.com/xy3uqao.jpg









It's important to be extremely precise in the placement of the magnets because the magnets are self centering with each other and if they are off the fit of the components will be loose when the model is assembled.

It's also important to make sure the magnets are flush with the surrounding surfaces and not tilted in their sockets I'll show how I do that in the next installment..........

http://i.imgur.com/hKXwO63.jpg









Note if you will that in spite of the manhandling of the components the paint is firmly staying in place; Whew! at least that problem was solved....


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Insidious ForgeWorld:

These models are not for the beginner. I noticed this on the first model as well; there is a small aligning block moulded into the lower corner of the Generator housing (indicated by the arrow I scratched in the paint on the left housing. 

This small block is supposed to help align the housing with the aft hull component. Well it's in the wrong place or it's just too big and has to be trimmed down or the housings will not seat squarely on the hull floor or the back wall depending how you glue the parts together so conceivably you can have one generator angled up and one down and not notice it until you try to install the carapace and whoops it won't fit!

or it rocks! 

http://i.imgur.com/C4PLSqg.jpg









So either cut the block off or trim it down so the generators fit evenly and at the same angle.

I'll show you what I mean once my epoxy dries.............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Insidious ForgeWorld Part Two:

Now that the glue is dry I can demonstrate what I meant in the above post:

For the point of illustration let's pretend the Generator housing is not held on with magnets but instead you are trying to affix it to the hull with glue. In the image below I have purposely put the housing as it would appear were the corner block NOT trimmed down. Note the gap under the side wall utility box that should be resting on the hull floor. If you rock the housing forward so the box rests on the floor then the box in the upper corner separates from the back wall. You can have one or the other but not both because that moulded in block is positioned wrong. 

http://i.imgur.com/mzvLCrJ.jpg









So after you trim or remove the block both utility boxes contact the hull floor and back wall as they were intended and the housing is installed correctly i.e. as the FW designer had intended.

The proof of this is shown below where the completed housing assembly seen from beneath shows the bases of the hull and both housings are flush with each other behind the waist pivot well. 

http://i.imgur.com/05lxjRi.jpg









A minor discrepancy but I'll bet there are Warhounds assembled with those gaps apparent all because of a lack of FW quality control; I mean cleaning flash and vents and flattening mating surfaces I can understand but redesigning castings should not be required on a $600 dollar model for crissake!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Best of All Possible Worlds:

So in my above rants I pointed out quality control issues in FW castings but in truth these are beautifully designed and executed models, a bit pricey but then; It's only money and what else would you do with it; 

Give it to the Government?

The "best of all Worlds" title of this piece refers to the employment of magnets rather than glue to hold your Wahound together. The beauty of this is it allows you to view the wealth of internal detail in this model and also allows detailed interior painting after the model is assembled or in the case described above repair/alterations of mistakes made in the callowness of youthful exuberance i.e. "I gotta get this built for the big tournament this weekend."

Anyway below is the full hull/housing/carapace assembly in one piece; stable yet held together only with magnets.

http://i.imgur.com/tD7cFfN.jpg









First removing the carapace, almost everyone today employs magnets to affix the carapace to the hull so that's no biggy............

http://i.imgur.com/yDMe4bR.jpg









Note; the center bulkhead has not been installed properly as I want that removable for painting and subsequent interior view when the model is completed (Blackadder, do you ever complete a model?)

In the image below, shows the twin Generator housings held on only with magnets granting easy access to the aft bulkhead and hull.

http://i.imgur.com/fcppojM.jpg









(Yeah I know the gap is under the right utility box in this image because I was using this photo for the demo 'reply'.) 

Finally the hull completely disassembled and can be reassembled with equal facility thanks to the super strong properties of the rare earth magnets.

http://i.imgur.com/JxS1UkE.jpg









Next; Pinning the front to rear hull sections..............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Bee Without a Sting

Of course it's all well and good to advocate using magnets but unless the procedure is defined it's just so much verbal flatus. Not being a politician I'll attempt to back up my proposal with a procedural method. 

First of all you're going to need some sort of drill. Now here in the USA you can get a decent 1/2 inch variable speed drill for about $20 bucks. If you can afford a $600 dollar model surely you can afford an electric drill. I believe a man without tools is like a bee without a sting (Hence the Title ). Next you're going to need a set of drill bits. These are also pretty cheap because we're not drilling sheet metal here we're drilling plastic so now you're out maybe $30 bucks but the tools are reusable and with care will probably last a lifetime.

Next you will need rare earth magnets. I buy mine on ebay or locally at Home Depot or Lowes, Where they can be obtained in Europe & Etc I cannot say but I'm sure they can be sourced on the Internet.

For glue I use 5 or 7 minute epoxy also available at Home Depot &Etc.

To mount the Generator housings I used 12 MM X 3 MM disc shaped magnets one in each housing and one in each side of the aft hull component. Now it's important to observe the polarity of the magnets because if you get it wrong the part will shoot across the workbench instead of locking in place; I mark my polarity with a felt marker so I can tell at a glance which side is which. Call me a nitpicker but I keep the north/south polarity consistent across the two generators and the hull so the magnets are not repelling each other over the millenia.

Okay so now we're ready to drill the hole to receive the magnet; drill the hole with a bit just slightly larger than the size of the magnet. Now here in the US that's 31/64ths inch but a 1/2 inch will do. In the rest of the World that's about 12,5 MM or 13 MM if you have a cheap drill set. You can get away with drill the hole 3 MM deep ideally but not less as you don't want the magnet to protrude above the surface of the resin. So mix enough resin to coat the sides of the hole and fill the bottem of the cup and install the magnet making sure to observe the polarity remember. Now we want the magnet to be even with the surface of the surrounding surface and also to be dead on level i.e.not tilted so wipe off the excess epoxy and take a thin piece of steel or a fender washer and cover the magnet; don't worry about the washer getting glued to the piece, we'll address that later after the epoxy dries.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Together Again:

After an eight month hiatus I'm ready to resume this build starting with the fully articulated feet and legs.

http://i.imgur.com/7kmJkny.jpg


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Having just got my own warhound titan, I am watching with acute interest how you go about this.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

The problem I have with these large resin models is I can't decide on a pose I really want to commit to therefore I pin every thing I can in order to forestall that decision. I do not see this model having the full range of motion that my scratch Warhound has due to the static nature of the pistons and cylinders needing to be cut to fit the final stance position. The pose I am leaning towards is this one:


http://i.imgur.com/Yeju1O9.jpg


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Looks awesome but precarious. How is the perpendicular stability?

The model looks fantastically menacing in that pose though, I think it is very appropriate for a chaos warhound. Did you mount the legs at the hip in a similar way to the head?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The two discs provide the requisite stability I imagine and the pose is indeed menacing. The model was built by 'Aegis' some six years ago and will provide much in my final painting.

The Blackadder's skill is confined merely to copying.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

I note that most people who intend to swap out weapons leave the weapon cabling off the model. What are your thoughts on this? 

I'm tempted to go and find some equivalent gauged rubber piping and insert magnets into them, so that I don't have to worry about flex, can move the weapon angles etc.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> I note that most people who intend to swap out weapons leave the weapon cabling off the model. What are your thoughts on this?
> 
> I'm tempted to go and find some equivalent gauged rubber piping and insert magnets into them, so that I don't have to worry about flex, can move the weapon angles etc.


Detachable Power Cables:

The following I wrote some years ago when I attempted to address the "Detachable Power Cables" issue on my scratchbuilt Warhound Lucie.




> At long last I have installed the power cables to the underside of the head, er cockpit, er command deck. I wanted to keep the head removable for repair and modification and I stumbled on the idea to make the power cables plug in so they can be disconnected regularly.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/4hd2gpo.jpg
> 
> ...


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Some excellent advice, thanks for answering my question!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder Poses a Chaos Warhound



After sitting in the box for the better part of a year I've final gotten around to posing my Chaos Warhound.



In this preliminary pose (Nothing is glued yet; all the pieces are pinned together) I am trying to get the feet positions and the stance correct.



http://i.imgur.com/jNPMmzz.jpg












I've mentioned this before but to my mind the ambulation of the FW Titans is totally in error (My own Warlord included). Thrusting one foot forward without bringing it inward to the centerline in front of the trailing foot is physically impossible in a walking gait. Lifting a foot off the ground without shifting the weight to the trailing foot would cause the entire titan to topple to the side of the lifted foot. Further more to move forward the body must actually shift the CG (center of gravity) forward over the lead foot causing the lifted foot to swing and catch the body from falling forward on it's mug; every step we take has all these elements and we do it all subconsciously our brains making the subtle corrections for such as variations of terrain, wind, and surface conditions. Walking is tough!



ForgeWorld has titans waddling as a toddler would walk with the inverted pendulum perambulation; the torso shifting side to side with each step as a baby learning to walk. A squad of Reavers crossing a battlefield in this manner would look laughable.



My intent is to bring a bit of dignity to these monsters and I start with this, the Warhound Titan.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Always refreshing to have an engineering brain perspective on the matter! Is is just me, or does that photo above look exceptionally 'war of the worlds'?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah!

The Pose I Am Looking For:

This is pretty much the pose I am looking for granting nothing is glued together and the whole figure is suspended on a piece of wire coat hanger. 

http://i.imgur.com/zPaWmIR.jpg









It seems to have just the right degree of menace....

http://i.imgur.com/vttWvKF.jpg









The side view shows just a tad too much forward leaning but that will be corrected once the toes are secured.

http://i.imgur.com/jz6sUrG.jpg









Note the Turbolaser right armament; that's a modified Mars turbolaser....

http://i.imgur.com/APL9dtO.jpg









The rear view shows the dynamics of the pose.

http://i.imgur.com/rvAsIGd.jpg









Everything you see here is held together with pins and magnets so once glued the forward tilt will be less extreme.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

This Pose Is Working:

Trust me; after hours of tweaking the legs feet and toes I finally bit the bullet and super glued the toes and lower legs together for all time. And it appeares somewhat satisfactory.

http://i.imgur.com/k8E5tBR.jpg









Instead of shortening the balance rod I raised the cork surface about 3/8 ths inch to get the desired bend to the knee and ankle. 

http://i.imgur.com/GVbMiEn.jpg









I have to admit there is a certain malevolence to the pose even in this stripped down stage. Yeah this is how a Chaos Warhound should look Heh! Heh! Heh!


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Looking great, a melevolent, predatory stance is a must for a warhound titan of any ilk in my opinion!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply and the endorsement,

Meanwhile.....

Horrors:

Oh the horror I have three Warhound kits and all three are missing the same vital pieces;

http://i.imgur.com/SnYm0TC.jpg









both the pistons behind the knee.

http://i.imgur.com/1TL4buq.jpg









None of the pistons are of sufficient diameter to fit the cylinder properly. 

http://i.imgur.com/qdykNbx.jpg









There are two unaccounted for pistons but they are about a millimeter too small in diameter so I am making some from scratch, at least for this Warhound. 

http://i.imgur.com/dKTfLsf.jpg









Once I see where the unaccounted for pistons go I may make an adjustment but for now I need finish assembling the left leg as once assembled there will be no way to install that part. 

http://i.imgur.com/vDhpsnG.jpg









And here we have the missing piston installed; note the difference between this and the first image.......

http://i.imgur.com/SnYm0TC.jpg









I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.... Ha! 

Anyone with a finished Warhound; did you have the same problem; if so give me a reply.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Dude Her's Royt To Me

Damnation she stands unaided without me even having to add junk to her trunk. so she can be played as a piece without gluing pads to her feet...

http://i.imgur.com/RqEXwR9.jpg









I may add a couple of ounces of lead to the void generators because she still leans forward a tad too much but Hell, she stands!!!

http://i.imgur.com/QZYRAx0.jpg









Now I can start detailing the paint and a whole slew of ideas to pretty her up...

http://i.imgur.com/V1Gnz3k.jpg









And I thought it couldn't be done; Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/KV1o2yd.jpg









Yeah she definitly needs some weight in the back....

http://i.imgur.com/HsjlIfp.jpg


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Very nice, the view from the front is really nice, really shows the stalking menace of the beast


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Head Rotation Part 1:

Because why be satisfied with just one position.....

I tried this on my scratch built Warhound and it was quite an involved piece of work; much too labor intense......
http://i.imgur.com/1Eey09v.jpg









So here a simple and elegant way to achieve the same effect.

First get the old melon baller out of the utensil drawer (Who balls melons anymore anyway?) You can also pick them up cheap at the dollar store but make sure they're magnetic, (good) stainless steel won't work.

http://i.imgur.com/iC8cfMD.jpg









Next cut the bowl (cup) from the baller and sand the rough cut and surface of the cup.

http://i.imgur.com/E5PSgF8.jpg









And that's about it..... 

http://i.imgur.com/393BwIW.jpg









Next, the result of the effort......

BTW I forgot to mention you need to have installed rare earth magnets on both the head and neck to make this work......


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Result:

So my little experiment has paid off and now my Warhound has a simple yet effective articulated head capable of positioning virtually anywhere within the confines of the neck area as befitting a model of this caliber..........

Looking down:

http://i.imgur.com/5gnyH5d.jpg









Midway position:

http://i.imgur.com/N6tc7ZS.jpg









Fully elevated position:

http://i.imgur.com/cyatRLx.jpg









Looking right (pardon the chopped image)

http://i.imgur.com/gfW2VaP.jpg









And looking left............

http://i.imgur.com/tJwHEgh.jpg









Just a little fun project to keep you from getting too bored whilst building one of these precast models.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

"There are some days when I think I'm going to die from an overdose of satisfaction."
~Salvador Dali 

Well I don't know what his satisfaction stems from, flaccid clocks or the world's most ridiculous mustache but I can understand the gist of his statement. 

Today my Chaos Warhound stands 95% complete with all pertinent parts installed and ready for final painting. I regret I couldn't make the legs movable but the mass of this model prevented such niceties so I have to be satisfied with neck, waist and weapons being able to be posed but the legs are permanently glue into the pose you see here. 

http://i.imgur.com/zWMivuU.jpg









I had hopes to open my paint booth this weekend but Winter still has it's icy grip on the the northeast US so no painting as of this date.

http://i.imgur.com/smafIPh.jpg









So instead a brief show of the dexterity of the neck joint, would that I could have the time to animate this but you'll get the idea.


http://i.imgur.com/as1pnlT.jpg









And in the final image the Space Marine is toast.

http://i.imgur.com/j2F3qkE.jpg









Martini time; Skoal.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I Don't Do Windows:

If you're anything like me you dread doing windows. They're always messy and smudged with glue and always popping out and looking like a genuine bollixed up abomination. I got incredibly lucky on my Warlord but that was just that; LUCK.

So here's something I discovered last night that may take the pain out of glazing...

It seems the two products shown below are extremely compatible; the Loctite Ultra fast drying glue makes the Staples Index Tabs just the right degree of tackyness to adhere to the resin and softens the edges to conform to the window frames.

http://i.imgur.com/FVuyiC1.jpg









The two pieces joined (Just above the knife in the image below) were my test pieces and I just put a drop of glue and pressed the two pieces together momentarily and they held plus the glue did not cloud or bubble. Capillary action is very good with these products as well. 

http://i.imgur.com/SaJ6Jxp.jpg









So with this result....

http://i.imgur.com/HjfDMzZ.jpg









I'll leave you and attempt to install the other window with equal success I hope.


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## Old Man78 (Nov 3, 2011)

Pure splendid work, well done!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

As ever Blackadder, you prove yourself a god among modellers. Excellent work, and congrats on your excellent model posing! 

I reiterate that you should come down under and do a workshop for we poor heathens and amateurs...


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Saga Continues, or The Blackadder Has Too Much Time On His Hands.............

With my new Mini Ipad and some luck I am bringing to the table first hand images of my second FW Chaos Warhound. Since I've already established the pose and this one will somewhat mirror the previous pose shown above, I know how to set the feet for a reasonably accurate stance so my main concern is a proper base setting for display. In this one I shall be going for a barren lava bed with a melted Ryza turret and gun in the foreground ( In reality a failed casting of a Vanquisher turret and cannon I made years ago and which has been kicking around in the Russ bitz box ad nauseum) The terrain is some old 'Sculpey bakeable clay' I found in the garage and painted with a few passes from some old cans of Krylon spray primer spray; Flat Black, Gray Primer, Rust Primer, and EMD Carton spray paint that is used to blot out shipping labels.........

http://i.imgur.com/tTXhOBW.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> As ever Blackadder, you prove yourself a god among modellers. Excellent work, and congrats on your excellent model posing!
> 
> I reiterate that you should come down under and do a workshop for we poor heathens and amateurs...


God has it been six months since I've posted here???? sorry to have been so remiss in replying but I have been so caught up in the suicide the US is forced to endure every four years I neglected my erstwhile following. I'd be more than happy to make the trip down under but I do have commitments here as well, but thanks for the replies and as always I am glad to answer any questions on my work regardless of complexity. 

My goal here is to pose a second Chaos Warhound much the same as the first in a similar but mirror image pose and show the step by step procedure plus I want a depressing setting of a defunct Russ tank carcass with a skeleton slumped over the hatch coaming. That should be fun. Stay tuned for further developments.


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