# Blackadder's Lucius Pattern Warhound Titan



## Blackadder

I'm really over my head on this one. Scale will make or break this model and I can't get any decent leg measurements from the photos. 

I'm trying a different approach this time as I think the titan will be too top heavy if I make it all from plastic and resin. I'll begin with a basic hull shape as thats what I'm most sure of as far as scale. I've put about a week of evenings into this so far and I'm about to start on the head. 

I'm using foam filled poster board 5mm and 13mm thick which works very well and will give me the upper body lightness I'll be needing for stability. The body will be covered with sheet styrene after I get all the proportions right. 

I'm thinking 3/4" pine square stock for the leg segments and dowels for the round joints but that may be too massive when covered with styrene. 

Anyway here the rough hull and carapace prototype for refining the measurements.





































The Blackadder


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## Blackadder

No responses to my rather tawdry effort thus far given the mediocrity of the images. I put a few hours in the next week resulting in this.














































The Blackadder


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## Pherion

Looking good. Keep us posted on the progress. I want to see it come together as you complete it.


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## Blackadder

Thanks for the reply and the interest.

The hull and carapace required a lot more shaping and refining before the styrene was applied. Initially I was just using the foam hull as a mock up just to get the proportions and overall shape right but decided to jut go with it as the core for the finished model and not do the same work twice.

Blackadder

Here are my first effort on making the legs:









They are way too small and delicate but are fully articulated. Getting the mechanics down for full moveability was the primary purpose for building these prototypes and nothing is wasted as I used them as the core for the full sized legs later on.

Blackadder


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## Jaxx23

Imma keep a close eye on this thread for sure


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## Blackadder

I've been going through my photo record and these are the last shots I have of the preliminary building. Its a pity I didn't do more documentation in the beginning but 'There it is', as the saying goes. My next images will be of the actual full sized model as I ultimately decided the proportions were reasonably accurate.










Blackadder


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## Blackadder

I've been going through my photo record and these are the last shots I have of the preliminary building. Its a pity I didn't do more documentation in the beginning but 'There it is', as the saying goes. My next images will be of the actual full sized model as I ultimately decided the proportions were reasonably accurate.










Blackadder


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## Jaxx23

Now i can see where people get lazy and buy the FW one, that looks like a TONE of work


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## Blackadder

Jaxx23 said:


> Now i can see where people get lazy and buy the FW one, that looks like a TONE of work


It's quite likely you haven't had a bad Forge World experience. I received a new in box Stormblade (through Ebay auction) that would have you (me/anyone) in tears. The hull was so badly warped that it looked like a potato chip and I literally had to cut up the entire hull flatten the panels under heat and pressure and reglue it back together. BTW The seller was quite upfront about the defect and the rebuild was beyond his ability. The model came shrink wrapped from Forge World and he could get no satisfaction from them. My son bought a FW Vulture that had tail booms of two different lengths, and a Chaos viper that was missing the cockpit canopy; we're still waiting for that piece. I bought a FW Lightning flier (through Ebay) that had the notorious fusilage twist that I managed to restraighten to an acceptable level. An internet friend of mine bought a Lucius Warhound titan that was missing all manner of parts and had a Mars pattern toe. When he finally got the toe replaced it was the wrong toe even though he stipulated it was one of the side toes he needed not the longer center toe.

In all I'd sooner repair my own mistakes than pay for the privilege of rectifying someone elses (FW's) errors. 

Thanks for the reply.

Scratch building is where it's at,

Blackadder


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## Graf Spee

Blackadder said:


> It's quite likely you haven't had a bad Forge World experience. I received a new in box Stormblade (through Ebay auction) that would have you (me/anyone) in tears. The hull was so badly warped that it looked like a potato chip and I literally had to cut up the entire hull flatten the panels under heat and pressure and reglue it back together. BTW The seller was quite upfront about the defect and the rebuild was beyond his ability. The model came shrink wrapped from Forge World and he could get no satisfaction from them. My son bought a FW Vulture that had tail booms of two different lengths, and a Chaos viper that was missing the cockpit canopy; we're still waiting for that piece. I bought a FW Lightning flier (through Ebay) that had the notorious fusilage twist that I managed to restraighten to an acceptable level. An internet friend of mine bought a Lucius Warhound titan that was missing all manner of parts and had a Mars pattern toe. When he finally got the toe replaced it was the wrong toe even though he stipulated it was one of the side toes he needed not the longer center toe.
> 
> In all I'd sooner repair my own mistakes than pay for the privilege of rectifying someone elses (FW's) errors.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Scratch building is where it's at,
> 
> Blackadder


yeah, fw resin modells tend to suck in 3 out of 5 cases. but i actually never got any problems to get the deformed parts replaced (except for the time and annoying phonecalls). and i could always keep the crappy parts and use them for wreckage. but yeah, they have real shitty quality control and simply do not seem to care in what condition their stuff is when they ship it. that is actually getting on my nerves.

so start scratchbuilding is way around them. awesome work so far! looks really good. have some rep..


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## Blackadder

Okay enough BS; after seemingly endless planning and failed starts I managed to cobble together a reasonably acceptable facsimile of my intended faithful reproduction of a FW Warhound with fully pose-able legs and feet.










Only after I saw the photos was I fully aware of the obvious discrepancies. The hip cylinders were too small, The leg components weren't sufficiently massive.










A side by side comparison of my hound's leg to a FW leg showed the areas that needed rebuilding.










The toes were too long and the joints were too large but they were fully poseable which was a good start.










The bottom view revealed the waist was not large enough.










The body pivot axle was placed too far aft.

That's why it pays to have scale drawings boys and girls,

Blackadder


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## Son of Russ

Besides the changes you have pointed out, it is absolutely fantastic work!


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## Blackadder

Thanks for the reply Son of Russ,

One picture is worth a thousand words and in this case a thousand errors of perception. Working without any plan or measurement I have made numerous errors in scale and one digital photo revealed them. So after an all night rebuild here is the result plus I managed to attach the head as well. Incidentally all the leg and hip joints including the feet and toes are fully movable and posable at this point and I made the neck connection movable as well. Try that one FW 














































Whew, 

E. Blackadder 

Constructive critiques and comments would be greatly appreciated, 

EB


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## LukeValantine

Looks like way to much work you should give up, and start your own football team called the underdogs that will one day win the super bowl... or you could keep at it in hopes of owning one of the most interesting appoc units in the game.


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## Blackadder

Building models is a form of relaxation to me. I'm not into watching organized sports on the telly which would indeed be an insurmountable chore.

Thank you for the kind words regarding how my 'hound would be received on the battle board.

EB

It has been my intention to post further developments in the building of this project after receiving replies so here is the next installment of the building progress.

Since last I posted I've made some extensive changes to the way the head is mounted and to the head in general. We'll start with the overall model as it stands right now and it does stand wonder of wonders and seems to be stable in various stances so I must be doing something right or I made the feet too big. 










Blackadder

---------- Post added at 21:30 ---------- Previous post was at 21:17 ----------

first of all I bored a huge gaping hole in the front wall of the hull and routed it out as big as I could to accommodate the neck gimbal mechanism. I wanted to be able to move the head in all directions!!! Why you say? because the FW model can't says I, LOL

Then I found a discarded paint roller and used that as the sleeve for the neck gimbal

A 1.25 inch wooden drawer pull knob provided the orbit sphere and a 1.0 inch pvc 'Tee' fitting provided the housing for the gimbal joint. I carved down some 1.0 inch pvc tubing to make some races for the sphere to ride in and _voila_ a fully articulated head that can be adapted to a FW Warhound if you're willing to sacrifice the interior detail.










Believe me it took a lot of guts to cut that hole.










The neck mechanism top view.










Bottom view...........










and the component parts.

If anyone requires any information on how I constructed the various components they need only ask and I'll be happy to oblige.

Blackadder


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## Khorne's Fist

Brilliant work. As has been said, you can't give up now. 

The only (mild) critique I have is the body pivot being too far to the rear, it makes the model look off balance. But you've already identified this yourself. Beyond that it's one of the best scrach built titans I seen. +rep.


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## Blackadder

First of all thank you to: Khorne's Fist, Someguy, Graf Spee, and Chocobuncle for the rep points. 

There's a few discrepancies in my version but not enough to change what I have. Right now the head armor is a bit too thin. and the angle of the fore to aft run of the base of the muzzle is not extreme enough but it will have to do as you can see by the posted image of this dates work the armor is in place. 

Onward and upward as they say. 

Blackadder 










This image may look a little strange because the legs are in full extension. It will not be able to do this when the hydraulic cylinders are installed.



















The waist pivot point still has not been moved forward in this image.










If you were a grunt This is the last thing you would see!!! 










The Blackadder


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## Honking_Elephant

I'm not too sure whether its too late to help, but I have a set of templates that were made specifically for scratch building the titan, if you want them, just PM me. They could be helpful for creating the weapons, Honk.


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## Azkaellon

Awesome work man! +rep!!

Also i officaly hate forge world as well, my vampire hunter's hull is warped in the one spot that takes a heatgun to fix with only a 75% chance of destroying the whole model :angry:


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## Blackadder

Honking_Elephant said:


> I'm not too sure whether its too late to help, but I have a set of templates that were made specifically for scratch building the titan, if you want them, just PM me. They could be helpful for creating the weapons, Honk.


I appreciate the offer and would like to see them.

The only templates I have is the one that has been making the rounds on the internet. 

http://rapidshare.com/files/261517668/DIY_...__Templates.pdf

These templates will give you a very rough representation of a Warhound that probably be quite satisfactory with proper detailing to someone who is not a pathological manic obsessive such as I am.

E. Blackadder

I found an excellent manual on how to build a FW Lucius pattern Warhound and how to reinforce the joints with metal rods so you don't continually have to rebuild it. 

http://rapidshare.com/files/261518014/BUIL...ITAN_MANUAL.pdf

This was an invaluable guide showing hitherto unseen (by me) parts of the Warhound.

And the FW assembly manual for which they should be shot by one of their own Plasma cannons so incomplete it is for a $450.00 dollar model.

http://rapidshare.com/files/261519085/warhound.pdf

Early in the construction planning stage I did do some drawings pictured below but how to download them in scale I do not know. 










Be forewarned that some of my estimates on these drawings are in error such as the width to length of the engine vent fan housing. Other areas such as the Void shield generator housings I altered to suit my ideas on how it should look.

Other than that what I shall be posting in the coming days will throughly document my perception of the numerous components to this model and how I went about replicating them in my trial and error manner.

Edmund Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Witch King of Angmar said:


> Awesome work man! +rep!!
> 
> Also i officaly hate forge world as well, my vampire hunter's hull is warped in the one spot that takes a heatgun to fix with only a 75% chance of destroying the whole model :angry:


Thanks for the reps and the reply Witch King. I managed to screw up the muzzle of this beast and had to redo it which set me back a day or two but the problem has been remedied and I am starting on the detail of the head. Here is the result as of this date.

Now that I'm fairly satisfied with the overall proportions the fine detail should progress rapidly (When I find the time.)

First of all I thickened up the armor on the muzzle after reangling the side panels on the snout










I tacked on the top of the head armor because I will be removing it to install the windows and windshield after painting










The following images are of the underside of the head. I had no idea that area was so detailed as not one of the pictures I've seen showed anything but a glimpse of this section of the model. I have a benefactor on another forum who graciously provided some images of this detail.





































E. Blackadder


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## jasonfly

daaaamn, that looks like a lot of work. Is that your first scratchbuild? because the detailing is awesome. Im just starting out scratchbuilding, but im starting a bit smaller. 

this will be great reference when(more likely if) i start building my own titan.

keep at it, too late to go back now!


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## Blackadder

jasonfly said:


> daaaamn, that looks like a lot of work. Is that your first scratchbuild? because the detailing is awesome. Im just starting out scratchbuilding, but im starting a bit smaller.
> 
> this will be great reference when(more likely if) i start building my own titan.
> 
> keep at it, too late to go back now!


I've been building wooden ship models for years and only in the past year or so been modeling in plastic. I started refurbishing junk I bought on ebay decrepit Baneblades and the like. Once I got a good background in rebuilding and repairing I custom detailed an old Armorcast Baneblade to look like a Forgeworld Baneblade. 

From this:









To this:









To ultimately this:









My first real scratch build project was a copy of a Titan Hunter I saw on EBay:

This was on Ebay:









And this was my version:








I've gotta take a better picture of this model. Too much india ink on the treads.

I personally wouldn't start small. It's just as hard to do a really fine detailed small model as a big one. You can knock yourself out faithfully reproducing a $10 buck model and all you'll have is a copy of a ten buck model or you can faithfully replicate a $450 dollar model and have a masterpiece.

But that's just my opinion,

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

I started this project attempting to build a Warhound facsimile for my son out of foam filled board but the more I got into it the more I wanted to have a realistic copy of the original. I have departed from the original design in a few areas especially the shield generator housings in the back which looked a bit small and blocky on the original. Mine are larger and I think more in keeping with the overall sleekness of the rest of the model; the carapace at least. 

I'm not too worried about the legs any more; I believe they are within a millimeter of accuracy in diameter and length. my major concern is the hip ball joints which are 3mm too small in diameter although it's hard to see the difference. I've left the waist for last in detailing as I still am looking for a ball 2.57cm in diameter. 

Below are the images of the model to date: 




























































































once again thanks for the replies and input, 

E. Blackadder


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## Blackadder

More underside detail. 

Purists will note that I departed from the original in the aux servo compartments albeit through necessity as my carapace ceiling is over 1.3cm thick. this is because originally I used 1/2 foam core poster board as it was to be a trial build for practice. 

It came out so well I decided to just skin it in sheet styrene and let it go at that forgetting the extra thick ceiling; whoops. Came the time to add the detail and lo and behold there was not enough recess depth for the actual compartment components. Even I drew the line at completely rebuilding the carapace so hence my amended version. 

Sue me for laziness but at this point I just want to see the d---ed thing done, 

Blackadder


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## Jaxx23

Wow dude ur the KING! The ONLY and i mean ONLY ONLY ONLY bad thing i have to say about this is not quality but the following:
How much have u spent on material for it? Wouldnt it of been easier and less time consumming just to buy the Forge World one?

BUt guarantied this is the VERY BEST titan scratch built ive ever seen!!!


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## Blackadder

Jaxx23 said:


> Wow dude ur the KING! The ONLY and i mean ONLY ONLY ONLY bad thing i have to say about this is not quality but the following:
> How much have u spent on material for it? Wouldnt it of been easier and less time consumming just to buy the Forge World one?
> 
> BUt guarantied this is the VERY BEST titan scratch built ive ever seen!!!


Aye; there's the rub. I suppose I have $100.00US invested in this project. I can't count: paint or glue, or tools, sandpaper, knife blades, etc, epoxy filler and the like; as the Forge World kit would require all of those and then some which is pretty poor considering the disparity of cost. I still have most of the material I have purchased as the plasticard stock just supplements my usual inventory. 

Time invested cannot be accounted for as this is a hobby and if I wasn't doing this project I'd be doing something in a similar vein. Again the FW model needs extensive rework to build the model properly. Might I refer you to an excellent manual that will take you over the pitfalls of building a FW Warhound. 

http://www.scribd.com/doc/2670070/JGTBSv2

I have pictures of kits where the vent housing is more than 4.0mm askew and the leg components are of different lengths not to mention missing or damaged parts and a general poor quality of the moulding process. Mind you I would give my left nut for an Authentic FW Warhound but only a Chaos version where the discrepancies are not as noticeable.

I also wanted to do this model to see if I could make it pose-able. The big drawback to the Forge World model is once it's assembled you're pretty much stuck with the pose. The hydraulic cylinders have to be cut to length for the pose you decide on and the brittleness of the epoxy resin doesn't lend itself to articulation. All my leg and waist cylinders telescope to allow for a variety of poses and the wisdom of that effort is yet to be determined. It did consume about half the time I've devoted to this model in making the various parts pose-able. Quite possibly a fool's pursuit.

But there it is,

The Blackadder

Regarding the design: I've made a few structural changes that make the model more aesthetically pleasing to my eye while still keeping the overall look and complexity the same so the casual observer won't likely notice the differences.


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## Blackadder

Thanks to all for the words of encouragement. I've been agonising over the following step and trying to figure out how to make a proper ring of plastic around the orbit of the ankle and hip ball socket receptacle and the following is how I finally managed to accomplish it. 










Surprisingly simplicity itself but the most obvious somehow escapes us. I started by gluing with a good grade of thin liquid plastic glue. I use 'Tamiya - Extra Thin Cement :










I glued the selected piece to the periphery of the socket using the installed ball as an inner guide. fortunately I used wooden spheres so they are not affected by the glue. I imparted a slight curve to the ring strip initially and started a bit before the desired location so the beginning end could be cut off leaving a curved beginning.










Applying pressure with your thumb (or favorite finger) serves two purposes; one it is a clamp you can rely on to make the proper curve and two the heat of your hand speed the drying of the glue.










Following the curve of the ball make gluing every 30 degrees or so being careful to not let the glue flow back to the starting point as it may dissolve the original joint and you'll have to start over.










working your way around the ball to the starting point, cut off the short straight piece from the beginning and cut the end of the strip to butt with the beginning and voila; a perfect ring of plastic.










I needed a second ring to thicken the ring on the ankle and hip but the second layer is easier than the first and my only complaint is why didn't I think of this sooner.

The mentally challenged Blackadder


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## Holmstrom

That is some impressive craftsmanship, Blackadder. Very impressive. I'll enjoy observing the rest of your progress. I'm sure it'll look epic when it's completed.


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## Jaxx23

Like i love this thing SOOO much and the cost so far is NOTHING compared to the FW one and this one has ALOT more heart into it. I just hope that these words and all of the others as well will give you that EXTRA bit of motivation to finish. We love your work so keep us posted wth lots of pics.

-Jason-


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## Blackadder

Jaxx23 said:


> Like i love this thing SOOO much and the cost so far is NOTHING compared to the FW one and this one has ALOT more heart into it. I just hope that these words and all of the others as well will give you that EXTRA bit of motivation to finish. We love your work so keep us posted wth lots of pics.
> 
> -Jason-


Never fear my flagging enthusiasm, I gain incentive from the kind words offered on this an other forums. 

I managed to solve the problem of the ankle articulation so I could have telescoping hydraulic cylinders. I had to do extensive cutting of the lower leg segment and ankle joint to accommodate the piston and cylinder bases. The fine detail of the cylinder reinforcement rings have demonstrated to me that there is a limit to how much tinier I can go in the medium of styrene plastic. putting rivet detail on those rings is seemingly out of the question as the filing dust is not much smaller than the rivets themselves. even the cylinder data plates which I made of 0.25mm sheet styrene appear too thick and will have to be sanded thinner. 

The cylinder base hinge points I just took a guess at and fortunately I guessed correctly. The cyl. range of motion is minimal e.g. on the order of 0.5mm to 1.0mm. The piston base has a larger range of motion; approximately 2.0mm to 3.0mm as the joint is flexed. All in all the pistons have a travel of about 0.5cm which is sufficient for most poses of the leg as any further extention begins to look rather silly. I consider these cylinders the hardest to make due to the enclosed nature of the housings so the hip cylinders will be a cinch relatively speaking. 

EB









*Piston and cylinder breakdown components and assembly installed*









*Cyl. & Pistons install to their bases and the install ankle assembly fully compressed*









*detail of the ankle joint components and the ankle side vents and newly installed foot side ventilator grid.*









*Ankle joint in full extended position*


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## dirty-dog-

i cant believe i have missed this whole thread.

but, reading through all your posts, i believe i have come to a conclusion.

you are a forge world designer and you are taking revenge because they did not go with your idea of making a fully poseable titan. hence the amounts of awsome ness and detail.

and for doing so, i give you all the rep that i can give.


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## Blackadder

dirty-dog- said:


> i cant believe i have missed this whole thread.
> 
> but, reading through all your posts, i believe i have come to a conclusion.
> 
> you are a forge world designer and you are taking revenge because they did not go with your idea of making a fully poseable titan. hence the amounts of awsome ness and detail.
> 
> and for doing so, i give you all the rep that i can give.


An interesting hypothesis; thanks for the reps.

With the cylinders in place it's time to check out the full range of motion. 

Upper and lower leg hydraulics installed albeit without the finally dressing, cleaning and fine detail (note the pins instead of proper axles for quick disassembly.) Still a work in progress and the unforgiving eye of the camera disclosed some troubling flaws in the squareness of my cuts that were not readily apparent to my bleary eyes.

Blackadder


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## Falcon04

The amount of detail that has been put into this scratchbuild so far is absolutely staggering. I shall continue to watch this thread with vim and vigor.


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## Blackadder

I've grown a bit tired of working on the legs and started the waist/hips component.

There's a surprising amount of detail in this part more than you would guess a first glance.

I suppose the most interesting feature is the coil covered cable that runs down the back. Fortunately I have some extra thin copper wireand just wrapped it around some undersized styrene rod and voila, a reasonable facsimile of the conduit. a ring of 1/8 tubing drilled and cemented in place and a styrene block at the other end. some judicious bends and securing in place with extra thin cement and it's done. The ring below the gearlike waistband contained 16 parts not counting the ring itself and the waistband containd 32.

Dozens of odd bits and tubing, shaved 1/32 rod for rivets and cover fasteners.

All in all two days work and damned little to show for it.














































Blackadder


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## Azwraith

so incredibly amazing!


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## Jaxx23

I think i just got my first NErd-gasm!


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## Blackadder

That is a bit more information than I needed to know Jaxx23.

Here is a section of the model that is dense with detail and I'll venture to say that unless you've actually built a FW Warhound I'll bet you've never seen it.

The almost never seen bottom of the waist component.


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## Azkaellon

Me Wanty....


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## Shadow Hawk

What a scratch build.
I would rather buy this than something from fw, even if I had unlimeted money.
Oh unlimeted money...I would walk into GW, and the worker would say "Anything you need? brushes? A £1,000,000 paint pot?" I would say "I'll have 100 boxes of dire avengers please" then he says "That'll be £1800, are you sure you want to buy them?", and I say "Make that a thousand. Oh, the time It'll take me to paint and assemble 10,000DA's.


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## Blackadder

How do I change the basic black background and white lettering of this forum to a white background and black lettering? My eyes can't adjust to this black background.

The Blackadder


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## Jaxx23

LETS SAY! u where planning on selling this....what would be the price tag????


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## LTP

This is fantastic. One of the best scrathbuilds i have seen keep up the great work  +rep


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## dirty-dog-

to be honest i dont think that you can change lettering to be black on white rather than white on black.

Um, the best idea would be to contact jezlad about it, otherwise i cant give you any advice.


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## AM.

Really nice titan here. I'll look forward seeing it finished.


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## Blackadder

dirty-dog- said:


> to be honest i dont think that you can change lettering to be black on white rather than white on black.
> 
> Um, the best idea would be to contact jezlad about it, otherwise i cant give you any advice.


Interesting, other forums give alternate skin options. Saves the straining of old eyes to put to better uses such as the following:

Now that you have some idea how I made the cylinders; here are the completed ankle servos installed on the left leg and just the top parts on the right leg.























































I'm thinking the legs don't look too scrawny now,

A very satisfied Blackadder


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## Shadow Hawk

Lookin' good.
Lots of detail. Best scratch build ever!:biggrin:


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## Blackadder

The waist cylinders are done and temporarily mounted. Except for the detail they are complete. The model has become too heavy to stand on it's own without suspension wires. Once the joints are glued I'm hoping it will and still be poseable. It's taken quite a beating in the past few days with assembling and disasembling to fit parts and I managed to break a few toes. Nothing serious and I'll be reworking the toes anyhow. 










So here's the project as it stands at this moment and my appreciation to all for the support as I might have given up without your huzzahs. 

Blackadder


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## dirty-dog-

wow, the legs look amazing, i think that you should be very glad about this, i mean, who builds a warhound, and then details it as much as forgeworld do?


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## Holmstrom

Yeah this is looking even better and better with each WIP shot. Keep up the good work, it looks perfect so far.


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## Blackadder

The waist cylinders are done and temporarily mounted. Except for the detail they are complete. The model has become too heavy to stand on it's own without suspension wires. Once the joints are glued I'm hoping it will and still be posable. It's taken quite a beating in the past few days with assembling and disasembling to fit parts and I managed to break a few toes. Nothing serious and I'll be reworking the toes anyhow. 










So here's the project as it stands at this moment and my appreciation to all for the support as I might have given up without your huzzahs. 

Blackadder


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## dirty-dog-

um, Double post?


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## Blackadder

Whoops!

More images of the waist cylinders from the back this time.










EB


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## General. Gray Wolf

Wow. Thats looking fantastic. One of the most detailed scratch built model I've ever seen. I once tryed to make a scratch built titain...it ended up looking like a boxy thing with stupidly long legs! Wll done and good luck with the rest of the titain.


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## Jaxx23

God id honestly pay FW prices for you to make me one!


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## Blackadder

Started on the hatch hinges and the generator housing covers.










This first image show an area I wasn't particularly satisfied with. More on this section later.










The bulky hinges are ridiculous looking but they're on the original so there it is. FW add these for decorative purposes and the model looks rather bland without them










The penciled arrow points to another rework area.










Same area different lighting.

EB


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## Blackadder

Here's a tip for modelers and I'll use this picture for illustration.










I see a lot of replies from those who say they wish they could model as I seem to be able to. The picture below shows a rebuild of an area I wasn't completely satisfied with. Modeling is a labor of love and my motto is, *"Good enough is never good enough."*

As you all may know I am working without a decent plan so to not make a mistake I'll have to repair I sketch the next few parts on the hull and look at them for a few days to see if they are the correct size and shape. I edit them as need be and when I'm sure they're reasonable correct I fabricate the part in plastic and tack it on. If all looks well in the cold light of dawn I'll cement them on with the extra thin glue.

The best advice I can give to you is don't be in a rush.

EB


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## Damned Fist

phenomenal job thus far! The amount of detail is staggering. I can't imagine the amount of hours you'll have into this when it is complete. Excellent work:victory:


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## Blackadder

The above area repaired. It was the work of a half hour and looks much better. If I had left it the way it was it always would have bothered me that I didn't take the time to set it right.










Of course no one would have noticed the flaw but me.

The Blackadder


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## Shadow Hawk

Wow!
It would be one _Amazing_ model if your painting skills are as good as your modelling. Can't wait to see the end.


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## Jaxx23

I wanna see what them guns are gonna look like.


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## Blackadder

Jaxx23 said:


> God id honestly pay FW prices for you to make me one!





Jaxx23 said:


> I wanna see what them guns are gonna look like.


I don't know how to respond to your various replies since this is a one shot build instead of popping the model out of a mould as FW does it is extremely labor intensive. I could never sell it for FW prices which although are outrageously high could never compensate me for my time and effort. The best I can tell you is that a scratchbuilt Warhound Mars pattern comparably detailed sold for $1000 dollars on ebay. That would not be sufficient recompense for this endeavor as I would be working for far less than minimum wage.

I've done some preliminary work on the guns which initially will be a megabolter and a lascannon. I intend to make an full arsenal set of Warhound weapons and I truly love the look of the plasma cannon but I've already made one of those for another model.

My *'Titan Hunter'* A version of a Stormblade.










I'll do a series on how I scratchbuilt this at a later date.

EB


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## Blackadder

I got tired of looking to buy fans for the upper cooling compartment. I managed to make a few after some trial and error so the last one I took some pictures of the process.
















It took about 20 minutes to make the four. After they're trimed and under the cover screen I believe they'll look fine. 

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

I wasted a lot of time in stores and on the net looking to buy these fans but there just isn't anything to fit the bill. Hell I even looked at buttons in a sewing shop. Ultimately I bit the bullet and made the damned things and it wasn't as daunting a task as I had thought.
By the time I made the fourth one I had become quite adept at making 12 bladed 9.5mm fans although I wouldn't like to make any more.










Blackadder


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## dirty-dog-

those fans are really well done the adder, 

you should make a press cast (if thats the right term) in greenstuff, that would make things easier.


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## Blackadder

Thanks, I'd make a mould if I were going into production of this model but I'm afraid GW/FW would take a dim view of that. ;D

"Fiddly work" or a slavish attention to detail; it's all the same when attempting to duplicate a Titan. The one person I have to satisfy is me and I am a hard taskmaster. The only changes I make or have made are those where I think the original design can be improved on. IMHO elsewhere and there are very few areas where improvements were deemed necessary I hoped to render as faithfully as I am capable the original work which in the main is superb.

Below is my interpretation of the engine and cooling compartment.










EB


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## Azkaellon

fyi the second you field your finished titan some 8 year old smart ass kid with more money then brains will fire a Plastic super heavy at it, and make it explode first shot of the game. (Im afraid to use my warhound for that one reason.......i really hate kids)

*cough*

on a happy note, looking good man!


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## Shadow Hawk

Witch King of Angmar said:


> some 8 year old smart ass kid with more money then brains


I know enough of them...
Looking really good then, I can't wait to see the end product.


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## Blackadder

Witch King of Angmar said:


> fyi the second you field your finished titan some 8 year old smart ass kid with more money then brains will fire a Plastic super heavy at it, and make it explode first shot of the game. (Im afraid to use my warhound for that one reason.


Being a vet of the Viet Nam era I was constantly amazed that our vaunted super expensive hardware i.e. Huey helicopter could be brought down by a VC armed with a homemade crossbow.

On a more relevant note; after bestowing on my son the afore mentioned kickass Arethusa Baneblade and questioning if said expensive monster might not give him an unfair advantage he apprised me that a two bit (relatively speaking) fay looking flamin' Avatar armed with a pixie sword could take it out with one blow. :shok:

EB


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## Damned Fist

I am very impressed with not only the project..., but how quickly you are progressing. Keep it up:victory:


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## Blackadder

A week or two more with the detail. Detailing is fun but I get caught up in minutia. Right now I am working on the head. After thats done probably tomorrow I'll finish applying caps on the joints on the legs and toe joints and I should be ready to paint.









This new way of doing rivets is a lot better than the pins and more sizes are available. My local hobby store has some ideal etched brass mesh for the cooling cowl but it's rather expensive. 

Blackadder

Note the clutter on my worktable.

Awright so I ain't neat,

EB


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## Blackadder

Hard to believe a weekend went by with so little to show for it. Pigment aficionadoes will be happy to note that I have begun painting by applying a coat of grey primer to the engine compartment. 










The head is coming along very well after I bit the bullet and with a good deal of trepidation drilled recesses for the "headlights, parking lights and directional signals" for want of better terms. 










The hood and cheek vents look about done and the edging for the head armor will be installed tomorrow.










For those interested, thanks for the support. 

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Latest update: I started installing the umpty ump rivets I lost count after 300. I'm using 0.020, 0.030, 0.040, 0.050. 0.060 dia styrene rods shaved 0.20mm thick, and half inch straight pins.























































Note the damage on the toes. Assembly and disassembly has taken it's toll; they are much too weak and have to be reinforced. A project I have been putting off for obvious reasons. Gahhh!

Blackadder's mixing his units of measurements as usual; how does he manage to keep it straight???


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## dirty-dog-

i ment press moulds for the cooling fans, they would be rather easy to replicate then, and they look great, definitly cant wait to see this guy painted, let alone seeing it in a battle report. although, i bet when you battle someone they will go, "wow a forge world titan, how did you make it posable?"

i know i would if i saw this fully finished without the W.I.P stuff.


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## Blackadder

I did a little 'Photoshopping' (Actually I use Photo Impact Pro #10 which I think is a better program than Photoshop.) since I've completed most of the detail on the head.










I still have the armor on the top of the head to do and the windows and windowframing replete with rivets need to be added after painting.

So I copied and pasted one of my images of a real Warhound head onto my recent image. I was greatly pleased and surprised how well it came out and would like to share it with all of you who have been so instrumental in keeping me on target in finishing this thing.

EB


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## dirty-dog-

definitly prefer your version, i mean, first of all, i bet that if you ordered it from FW it would have somewhat shrunk or warped.


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## Shadow Hawk

Getting along nicely. Keep the work up!


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## NerdyOgre254

Wow, this is really progressing quite well.
I have two questions:
1. How do you go about adding extra detail? I built a Vindicator (it's on here somewhere, and it's a piece of shit as you will see should you go looking for it) but I was wondering how you did it.
2. How do you get the angles of the designs right, and what tools and techniques do you use to create such accurate cuts in the plasticard?


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## Blackadder

NerdyOgre254 said:


> Wow, this is really progressing quite well.
> I have two questions:
> 1. How do you go about adding extra detail? I built a Vindicator (it's on here somewhere, and it's a piece of shit as you will see should you go looking for it) but I was wondering how you did it.
> 2. How do you get the angles of the designs right, and what tools and techniques do you use to create such accurate cuts in the plasticard?


While I greatly appreciate the replies saying how good this model is coming along, this is the kind of post I really am looking for. I want to share building techniques and learn how to do things better. We all can learn something and a thread such as this brings out questions and answers that people either are reluctant to ask or think that everyone already knows the answer to.

Now that you are thoroughly confused over what I am trying to say I'll answer your questions. 

Mainly I look at detail as the fun part of building. Once you get the basic shape right and covered with plasticard the hard part is over. adding a hundred rivets goes pretty quickly once you build up a rhythm. Electrical conduit is either double twisted wire (I use .020 and .030 wire) or .020 and .030 evergreen plastic rod for solid conduit. Rivets are thin slices of rod picked up by the tip of a new #11 exacto blade. Put a couple of drops of Tamiya super thin glue on the piece to be riveted and stick on the rivets.A little pressure until the glue sets and the tip comes away leaving the rivet. You can easily do 10 to 15 a minute once you get the hang of it.

I buy the pre-scored sheets of boxcar siding 0.05mm thick for a lot of my detail when I'm looking for a thin straight cut. It curves beautifully and I've used it for the radiator intake on the nose of this model the vent screens on the foot pads and the borders on various hatches. I also used it to make the straps over the hips.

I find that it's next to impossible to make long straight cuts with exacto blades. They flex too much and break too easily. I use a Stanley or General 'Utility knife' with a retractable blade. They're as sharp as a razor and won't flex or break. You can really bear down on them for extra deep cuts say 1/8 inch plastic. I usually make two or more passes to cut thick plastic. A thin cut following a pencil line and once a groove however shallow is scribed the utility blade follows that path of least resistance. Practice on some scrap plastic to pick up the technique and you'll be cutting near perfect lines in no time. 

For thin plastic up to 0.5mm I use a good pair of sissors. It cuts like paper.

Sometime you just get a bad cut. I use a smooth flat file or a fine 180 grit sandpaper to straighten the edge. only file or sand in one direction or your edge may round down on the ends and hump in the middle. 

EB


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## Blackadder

Sorry folks photo bucket says I've been using their free service too much and is penalizing me for the rest of the month. Here's the email they sent me.

_"Attention The_Blackadder

You have exceeded the 25 GB monthly bandwidth limit on your free
Photobucket account. As such, your image and video links have been
temporarily disabled. Your images and videos have not been deleted but
will be reactivated on the 30th of the month, when your bandwidth
usage resets to zero."_

Anyone know of a good photo service I can use that doesn't act like a bunch of babies when you use their service.

Sheesh,

The Blackadder


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## Shadow Hawk

What?
You managed to use 25gb of bandwdith in a month???
I don't think you're gonna find much else better for free, but I like microsoft skydrive. 25gb of space, just 5 gb of bandwidth though. There is also live mesh, but you need microsoft silverlight (Which I don't have) It does have a nice interface though. Only 5gb storage this time. Photobucker are best IMO.


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## Blackadder

The silly b-----ds at photobucket have put a crimp in my dissertation but old reliable RS will do in a pinch. Hate cluttering up my RS account with individual images but hey any port in a storm.

I've installed dozens of rivets and am still finding more. How many are too many especially since they all have to be filed shorter after the glue dries. I'm still working on my first bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and it seems to be losing it's potency. does the stuff weaken if the top is not tightened after use as I am wont to do? 

Anywho here's today's work and the start of the mega bolter. There's probably a better way to make this but I can't have too much weight up front.










http://rapidshare.com/files/269624912/MEGABOLTER_FRAMEWORK.jpg

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

No, I've only 26 meg of images stored but I've got 25 gig of viewing traffic near as I can figure. 

The silly b-----ds at photobucket have put a crimp in my dissertation but old reliable RS will do in a pinch. Hate cluttering up my RS account with individual images but hey any port in a storm.

I've installed dozens of rivets and am still finding more. How many are too many especially since they all have to be filed shorter after the glue dries. I'm still working on my first bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and it seems to be losing it's potency. does the stuff weaken if the top is not tightened after use as I am wont to do? 

Anywho here's today's work and the start of the mega bolter. There's probably a better way to make this but I can't have too much weight up front.










http://rapidshare.com/files/269624912/MEGABOLTER_FRAMEWORK.jpg

Blackadder


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## Shadow Hawk

25 gig viewing traffic :shok:! Bloody Hell, you're popular.


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## Blackadder

Yesterday evening in spite of a liberal imbibing of frozen Margaritas I managed to apply the first coat of primer to the head and manufacture the Void Shield Projector bases and the bases for the reactor exhausts. 

As the rabbi said "It won't be long now",


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## Blackadder

I appreciate your impatience. I myself am very anxious to see this project completed but the very reason it is turning out so well (If I might make that assumption) is that I will not be hurried and will not compromise. I want smoked grey transparent styrene so the window frames will adhere to the 'glass' permanently. The reason being that I want this to last and not have to repair tiny strips of plastic peeling from the windows. I want a hint of internal detail without having to do a lot of hidden detail that no one will see.

I needed some 0.25mm material anyway so I did buy the plasticard clear styrene sheets. 'Way too expensive for the square inch of clear glass I'll need for the windows but I have other uses for it on this and other planned projects. Now I will experiment with india ink or a fine dusting of spray paint to achieve a grey tinge to the 'glass'.

I've come up with what I think will be ideal 'parking' lights and 'turnsignal' lights. After haunting the local craft shops looking for a cheap pack of assorted 1mm rhinestones I hit on the idea of the colored 'Non-pareils' sugar beads you sprinkle on ice cream and Christmas cookies. 

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/candywarehouse_2063_458213481

They come in assorted colors and vary in size from 1.0 to 1.5mm. They're hard as stone and virtually indestructible especially housed in the drilled recesses in the grill. I'm hoping that I can make the headlights out of Cyano acetate glue dots which should give me a slightly domed headlight shape. 

I can see the WD news now. Scratchbuilt Warhound attacked by ants; film at eleven.

Blackadder

other assorted lights will be coming after I apply the paint.

I took better pictures without benefit of Margaritas.


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## Blackadder

Forgot a picture.


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## dirty-dog-

hey dude, i cant see any pics, all i get is a small box with a X through it.

Have you tried a Flickr account?


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## Dark Archangel

Yeah same here,
Most of the "pictures" are boxes with "x"

I am following this project for a few weaks now and i must say this is the best scratch build titan i have ever seen.


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## Blackadder

dirty-dog- said:


> hey dude, i cant see any pics, all i get is a small box with a X through it.
> 
> Have you tried a Flickr account?





Dark Archangel said:


> Yeah same here,
> Most of the "pictures" are boxes with "x"
> 
> I am following this project for a few weaks now and i must say this is the best scratch build titan i have ever seen.


Even my last post? I used the forum attachment option?

Well on the the thirtieth. Photo Bucket will be back up if the forum thumb option isn't working.

Wonder why I can see the images?

EB


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## Blackadder

Okay then Flickr:

Seems a bit complex but I'll give it a go.

It took me 3 hours to install the 196 rivets on the caps for the leg joints not to mention the 32 in the interior of the hip swivel drums. Talk about tedious. I still have to install the rosettes on the caps but decided to take a break and take some pictures. In all the caps took 3 days to manufacture and I don't relish repeating this part of the project but I still have the toes to do IIIEEEE!

EB

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/3857327596_a0bc0f6ab1_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/3857332080_ce2a3fcea7_o.jpg

Damn, Look Ma no thumbs.


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## Blackadder

Okay then Flickr:

Seems a bit complex but I'll give it a go.

It took me 3 hours to install the 196 rivets on the caps for the leg joints not to mention the 32 in the interior of the hip swivel drums. Talk about tedious. I still have to install the rosettes on the caps but decided to take a break and take some pictures. In all the caps took 3 days to manufacture and I don't relish repeating this part of the project but I still have the toes to do IIIEEEE!

EB










http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/385732...0bc0f6ab1_o.jpg










http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/385733...e2a3fcea7_o.jpg

Damn, Look Ma no thumbs.


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## dirty-dog-

ahh, thats much better.

i can see PROGRESS yay.

yes, looks very good as usuall, and i would have to say, i am very pleased ith how you are making it turn out. i have to say this in my top three all time great threads. i mean, wow.


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## Blackadder

Okay folks the next time you see this hull for better or worse it will have a coat of primer in it. As soon as I get these pictures uploaded I'm gonna paint this sucker. I did a crash program marathon to get it ready for paint this weekend installing something like 200+ more rivets and the rest carapace underside detail. I replaced the six link coupler tubes with styrene tubes in between the generators. 







































Question of probablilities for you math and physics wiz's out there:

I've studied a little quantum physics and the Heisenberg uncertainty principle but I'm at a loss to explain why when you install a rivet approximately 0.030inches in diameter and 0.015inches thick it invariably stands on edge instead of lying on the flat disc surface. I've even tried to stand it on edge (even though I really want it to lie flat just to confuse the gods of the laws of probablity) and the damned things still stand on edge. It's like flipping a coin a hundred times and every time it stands on edge. 

Now here's the real kicker; on a piece of scrap I deliberately tried to stand these tiny disks on edge and they lie flat every time. 

I think my basement is haunted by Schrodinger's cat,

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Okay folks the next time you see this hull for better or worse it will have a coat of primer in it. As soon as I get these pictures uploaded I'm gonna paint this sucker. I did a crash program marathon to get it ready for paint this weekend installing something like 200+ more rivets and the rest carapace underside detail. I replaced the six link coupler tubes with styrene tubes in between the generators. 







































Question of probablilities for you math and physics wiz's out there:

I've studied a little quantum physics and the Heisenberg uncertainty principle but I'm at a loss to explain why when you install a rivet approximately 0.030inches in diameter and 0.015inches thick it invariably stands on edge instead of lying on the flat disc surface. I've even tried to stand it on edge (even though I really want it to lie flat just to confuse the gods of the laws of probablity) and the damned things still stand on edge. It's like flipping a coin a hundred times and every time it stands on edge. 

Now here's the real kicker; on a piece of scrap I deliberately tried to stand these tiny disks on edge and they lie flat every time. 

I think my basement is haunted by Schrodinger's cat,

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Whoa, I've forgotten to post for the last few days. If I don't see response notifications in my email I tend to get caught up in other things.

As promised here is the hull primed with standard Krylon sandable primer Grey spray paint. I paint all my vehicles grey first and sometimes thats all they get except for an India ink wash to accent the detail. This model will be different as the grey doesn't seem adequate. I now have to decide on a colour scheme.

I'm kind of leaning towards the original FW offering with the yellow head and armor appointments


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## Dark Archangel

The detail is really amazing!!!
Now when it is painted grey it even looks greater.
It really looks like a warmachine!!!


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## Jaxx23

Keep going dude your SOOOO close to finishing. LOVE THIS THREAD!


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## Damned Fist

Amazing work! I can't comprehend the amount of work that goes into creating so much detail on such a large scale. Very well done so far.:victory:


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## Dark Archangel

I have got a question about the legs.
You have created them so they can move.
But how have you accomplished that the hinges stay in position?
I saw on the photo's that you use two "eyes" on one part an one "eye" on the other and then a wooden axle.
But does this stay in position or "whobbles" (dont know how the wright it down) it?? Also with the toes, i saw they all are moveable, how do you do that?


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## dirty-dog-

Wow man looking great, it looks like you have brought the thing from forgeworld dude. cant wait to see it finished.


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## Blackadder

Its gratifying to receive so many responses. I appreciate each and every one of them and doubly so a technical question.




Dark Archangel said:


> I have got a question about the legs.
> You have created them so they can move.
> But how have you accomplished that the hinges stay in position?


Truth be know, I don't know how much weight the joints can take without moving. Before I started rebuilding the toes the knee and ankle joints could support the weight of the hull and the toes even without the axle caps gave the model fore and aft stability. My main concern is the hip ball and socket joints. They are very flexible and I've attempted to build them up with layers of paint. This made the balls very stiff in the rotator cup but I can only apply so much paint and the balls won't fit anymore. 



> I saw on the photo's that you use two "eyes" on one part an one "eye" on the other and then a wooden axle.


Right now I have to use two hands to make the knee and ankle joints move. The dowels are slightly oversized and have to be driven in/out with a small hammer and drift. The "eyes" are made of PVC plumbing tubing and can stand a substantial amount of pressure from within so I have no worry about them fatiguing. If the joints weaken, I can alway replace the dowels. Actually I experimented with painting the dowels to thicken them and it would make a quick field repair in a pinch.



> But does this stay in position or "whobbles" (dont know how the wright it down) it?? Also with the toes, i saw they all are moveable, how do you do that?


The toe joints are miniature versions of the leg joints but instead of wooden dowels I used the telescoping 'Evergreen' tubing. The end caps serve two purposes; that of providing an axle for the joint and locking the joints together. 








Can't believe I didn't post this image?

They are quite tight and have to be pried out and I'm sure they will provide the required stability when the model is assembled again.

Of course if it doesn't work I can just glue the damned thing together and chalk it up as a learning experience. LOL

E. Blackadder


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## Dark Archangel

Hi Blackadder,

Thank you very much for the explenation.
It is really clear.
Because the dowels/axles are a bit bigger of diameter then the "eyes"/pvc plumbing tube, it is a oversized fitting. I know this "trick" from my work, we use it with bearings in automotive design.
And then yeah when will the hinges give way due to the weight, that is just trail and error, so make the body as light as possible.

Keep up the good work:good:
I am starting my own titan project, but for my first scratchbuild project i want to keep it simple. I am using the all known templates that are around on the net. With my first build i am not going to use hinges for the legs and stuff but for my second i want to make my titan flexible. The first one is just for trial.


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## Blackadder

Okay the body is primed not painted but at least its not white anymore. Heres the left leg primed (not painted) with all the detail installed except for the banners and decorations. 

Egad,  the armor still has to be built I forgot about that. 

I started rebuilding the toes stronger and with smaller axle joints. The original joints were too weak anyway I learned a lot about the limitations of styrene plastic and epoxy bonding. The new toes are much more durable.

Kick ass as it were,

The Blackadder


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## Holmstrom

This has been a great project to see progress over the weeks. Keep up the great work *Blackadder*. I can't wait to see this beast once it has been completed. Your attention to detail is commendable as is your devotion to a project.


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## Sqwerlpunk

Incredibly impressive thread, Blackadder.


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## Blackadder

Exceptionally fine accolades and I appreciate scoring so highly in your estimation. There are quite a few builders that I doff my hat to. Most notably (off the top of my head) for sheer creativity and attention to detail are Marcos De Silva of Argentina and Dave Smith of California. 

Mr Silva built a faithful reproduction of a Mars pattern Warhound indistinguishable from the real thing that sold on eBay for $1000. He was also the inspiration for my Jaeger Titan Hunter superheavy tank. Dave Smith built the all time hands down most awesome, beautiful and functional looking Warlord Titan I have ever seen and I hope to attempt a replication in the near future with a step by step construction guide on these pages.

As for time invested and cost saving over a FW production model; its impossible to estimate. I would not be satisfied with a FW model directly out of the box. While the overall design is breathtaking there are a few areas where I would have modified the look to please my own aesthetic sensibilities and the medium of resin perforce a compromise in quality of casting. All flaws would have to be addressed. so you are looking at a considerable rebuild of many components and paying a considerable price for the privilege to do so.

I'm going through the interminable process of rebuilding the toes and detailing them. Although they are a lot leaner than before they are much stronger and more to scale; especially the joints. The row of cylinders in front are the joint caps left to do in various stages of completion FYI. Twenty eight caps in all to do =280 rivets just for the caps alone. Whew!


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## Blackadder

I'm going through the interminable process of rebuilding the toes and detailing them. Although they are a lot leaner than before they are much stronger and more to scale; especially the joints. The row of cylinders in front are the joint caps left to do in various stages of completion FYI. Twenty eight caps in all to do =280 rivets just for the caps alone. Whew!


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## Blackadder

Labor day weekend has come and gone and I was sure I would have been finished with this project by now but I am still rebuilding and detailing. I did manage to amost finish the detailing on the toes yesterday. only the banners and the final rivet dressing to complete and I'll be ready to prime them. I thought I would share the images of the toes before I paint them but my poor camera isn't up to the task. Anyhow here is the latest stage of production.





































Blackadder


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## Blackadder

There are those who may say I have compromised and not carried this out to the nth degree but in truth I am tired of making these toes and they're just going to have to suffice as they are. I have to move on to the arms and armor or this thing will never be finished so here are the toes as they stand (groan) and let no man say I didn't try. 

E. Blackadder


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## shaantitus

When you say scratch building is where its at you aren't kidding. This is amazing. You make it look so easy and yet the complexity and detail in the finished product is jaw dropping. I have to go back and reconsider what is possible.
Have all the rep i can donate. Wow.


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## Viscount Vash

Brilliant thread this.


Seeing your work may just have pushed me back to my own titan build, thankyou.

Here is a well deserved Rep boost, I know your rivet pain.


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## HandOfNephthys

Looks great, cant wait to see more (The feet look really good to).


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## LTP

Cant wait to see this bad boy together! Its gonna be awesome. Keep up the good work


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## Blackadder

Many thanks to all those that responded and for the rep points as well. I hope when I have finished this project to have the time to explore this forum fully. Right now I have to remain focused and complete this work and not get sidetracked.

here's something you don't see everyday namely the treads on the bottom of the toes which outside of the fortunate few who actually own a real Warhound very few have seen. I know I hadn't.

It took a week to fabricate these treads. and I accomplished four today so I guess I was just dragging my feet (groan).

Many thanks to my benefactor Jabba for taking the images of the bottom of his Warhound's toes so I could replicate them. Not that anyone will see all this work but at least I'll know it's there.

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Blackadder said:


> Many thanks to all those that responded and for the rep points as well. I hope when I have finished this project to have the time to explore this forum fully. Right now I have to remain focused and complete this work and not get sidetracked.
> 
> here's something you don't see everyday namely the treads on the bottom of the toes which outside of the fortunate few who actually own a real Warhound very few have seen. I know I hadn't.
> 
> It took a week to fabricate these treads. and I accomplished four today so I guess I was just dragging my feet (groan).
> 
> Many thanks to my benefactor Jabba for taking the images of the bottom of his Warhound's toes so I could replicate them. Not that anyone will see all this work but at least I'll know it's there.
> 
> Blackadder


Man this thread is screwed up. I don't know how this post ended up in the middle of page 11.

Heres the images of the treads.

Blackadder


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## Jaxx23

What did u have planned for the Guns, weapon option and how u where gonna tackle it?


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## Blackadder

shaantitus said:


> When you say scratch building is where its at you aren't kidding. This is amazing. You make it look so easy and yet the complexity and detail in the finished product is jaw dropping. I have to go back and reconsider what is possible.
> Have all the rep i can donate. Wow.


All things are possible to the idle mind



Viscount Vash said:


> Brilliant thread this.
> 
> 
> Seeing your work may just have pushed me back to my own titan build, thankyou.
> 
> Here is a well deserved Rep boost, I know your rivet pain.


That's what I like to hear. Go for it; and share your work. nothing spurs you on like the approval of your peers.



HandOfNephthys said:


> Looks great, cant wait to see more (The feet look really good to).


More to come.



LTP said:


> Cant wait to see this bad boy together! Its gonna be awesome. Keep up the good work


You won't have to wait long I mounted the feet to the legs today and tomorrow I'll take some pictures.

The bad news is there are flaws in the FW design and the cylinders built to scale length do not allow for the full range of motion as represented by the various poses of the production model. FW employed a fudge factor (artistic license). The main problem is with the waist to hip cylinders. the piston length is too short and when posed at the extreme end of the socket orbit, the opposite piston slides out of the cylinder. The toe cylinders are likewise too short. I could change the length but it would alter the look of the model which I don't want to do so I'll just have to settle for a limited range of motion.

The good news is the joints are strong enough to bear the weight of the upper works. 



Jaxx23 said:


> What did u have planned for the Guns, weapon option and how u where gonna tackle it?


After I post the pictures tomorrow I'll start on the guns. I intend to make a full compliment of weapons less the fist and chainsaw which look silly to me. The initial pieces will be the mega bolter and the dual lascannon. I have already made a plasma cannon for my 'Titan Hunter' superheavy tank










so I won't be making one of those until later after the armor is done and the model is completely painted. Likewise the flame thrower. FW has release some new weapons that look intriguing.

Thanks for all the replies,

Blackadder

What the hey heres my Titan Hunter I should really take some better pictires of it now that it's got a better finish. 










I plan to run a step by step building thread for this badass vehicle that I framed out of old IBM ribbon cartridges 










after I finish this thread.

EB


----------



## Blackadder

It took a week to do these treads. and I accomplished four today so I guess I was just dragging my feet (groan).




























Many thanks to my benefactor Jabba for the images of the bottom of the toes. Not that anyone will see all this work but at least I'll know it's there.

Blackadder


----------



## dirty-dog-

are you sure you dont want to put this into mass production? or send it into forgeworld to make them cast it?


----------



## Blackadder

While I'm formulating my painting questions.................

"She's got legs and she knows how to use them." 

"She's got legs and she knows how to move them. " 

To quote an old song BTW the real lyrics for that song are a bit too racy for this forum. 

Finally she's standing on her own (well sort of I need to install some junk in the trunk) don't worry, I've got room for half a pound of lead weights. 

but the joints seem strong enough to bear the weight and then some and she is fully possible within the limits of the design. 







There are flaws in the FW design and the cylinders built to scale length do not allow for the full range of motion as represented by the various poses of the production model. FW employed a fudge factor (artistic license). The main problem is with the waist to hip cylinders. the piston length is too short and when posed at the extreme end of the socket orbit, the opposite piston slides out of the cylinder. The toe cylinders are likewise too short. I could change the length but it would alter the look of the model which I don't want to do so I'll just have to settle for a limited range of motion. 

Now I can start on the weapons. 

EB 

And when did I start referring to her as she? Well just today.


----------



## Jaxx23

Honestly dude apply to GW for the love of god we want your products NOW!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Shadow Hawk

Wow, good job.


----------



## Blackadder

While I'm formulating my painting questions.................

"She's got legs and she knows how to use them." 

"She's got legs and she knows how to move them. " 

To quote an old song BTW the real lyrics for that song are a bit too racy for this forum. 

Finally she's standing on her own (well sort of I need to install some junk in the trunk) don't worry, I've got room for half a pound of lead weights. 

but the joints seem strong enough to bear the weight and then some and she is fully poseable within the limits of the design. 







There are flaws in the FW design and the cylinders built to scale length do not allow for the full range of motion as represented by the various poses of the production model. FW employed a fudge factor (artistic license). The main problem is with the waist to hip cylinders. the piston length is too short and when posed at the extreme end of the socket orbit, the opposite piston slides out of the cylinder. The toe cylinders are likewise too short. I could change the length but it would alter the look of the model which I don't want to do so I'll just have to settle for a limited range of motion. 

Now I can start on the weapons. 

EB 

And when did I start referring to her as she? Well just today.


----------



## NerdyOgre254

What with it being posable, how are you going to fix the weight distribution? Will the lead weights be removable?


----------



## Blackadder

NerdyOgre254 said:


> What with it being posable, how are you going to fix the weight distribution? Will the lead weights be removable?


In the immortal words of Ted Kennedy, "We'll have to cross that bridge when we come to it." 

Right now the model is front heavy. The toes are the only thing that is keeping it from toppling forward. I think at least four ounces of lead are needed to stablize it especially with the arms attached. I hadn't considered a problem with it being back heavy but a simple trimming weigh installed in the compartment behind the head should resolve that problem should it arise.

I hope,

The optimistic Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

At last the long awaited raison d'etre. I mean walking about towering of the battle field is all well and good but ya just gotta have sump'in to kick some ass and here is the first of those somethings. I started with the megabolter because it looked like it would be the toughest to make and I was right. There's a lot more to this boxy weapon than meet the eye of the casual observer. Angles and step ups and downs telescoping parts and for the life of me I can't determine if those two lumps on the back are moulding vents or actually part of the gun. 

Anyway here's the first days work.


----------



## Jaxx23

retardedly AWESOME!


----------



## Blackadder

> awesome, you build amazingly detailed models and quote ZZ Top songs haha


Who?

Honestly I didn't know who sang the song; I just remembered the "leggs" comercial.

How's that for dating yourself.

Not much accomplished this week. I do have the bolter body nailed I think and am starting to add the detail.

Originally the front housing was too short and the mount arm housing too long. The bolter barrels were too small and the front overhang too short so I redid virtually the whole thing working on the existing frame.

It looks pretty alright to me and the proportion to the head and hull looks about right so now on goes the detail this evening 














































If anyone has just cause as to why this detailing should not take place; let him speak now or forever hold his peace.

E. Blackadder


----------



## Ork_boss

DUDE APPLY FOR A JOB A GW!!!! IT IS awesomeNESS!


----------



## Blackadder

Man I am really confused about the posting order on this thread. The reply I submitted yesterday is before answers I got two and three days ago?

What's up with that??? None the less thanks for the replies how ever you found my latest submission.

Blackadder

BTW GW and FW probably aren't looking for someone who copies existing work and even if they are they could never afford to pay me the money I would require to do that which I am doing right now for free. (I think I said that right?) LOL 

Never the less I appreciate the compliment,

EB


----------



## Blackadder

Okay, here is the detailing on the bolter thus far. I had to change the proportions a little.

Once I get the back cable connecting housing completed; I'll bore the hole for the arm gimbal mount.

That should be fun....

Blackadder


----------



## Jaxx23

Golden dude.....golden


----------



## Blackadder

The gimbal is installed. Now to finish the detailing.

Don't know why I put off installing the gimball. It really is quite simple.

First you cut, chop bore, carve, or blast a hole larger than the rotator sphere.

stuff paper, kleenex, or whatever into the void so you don't waste too much epoxy.

mix up enough epoxy to fill the hole.

smear a light coat of vasoline or wax onto the sphere.

Insert the sphere slightly more than half way into the epoxy. a rim of epoxy will push out around the sphere. don't wipe it off or disturb it; you'll just make a mess.

Allow the epoxy to set for a few hours. I use epoxy that hardens in 24 hours but after a few hours it is hard enough to handle.

I use an exacto chisel to remove the rim of epoxy from the ball. The epoxy at this stage comes away readily from the plasticard with no residue. you can even flick it off with your fingernail.

At this point it's good to note that I have threaded an 8-32 screw into the ball.

Grabbing the screw with a set of pliers; the ball should come out with a satisfying 'pop'.

Voila one fully articulated gimbal,

Blackadder


----------



## Phenious

Its not fair! I know you put alot of effort and work into this titan and everyone does that scratch builds them, but looking at how much work is needed to make them I could only imagine how hard it would be to make an articulated Bio-Titan. How would one even begin to design a giant bug?!

Any who this thing looks epic! so much detail and the fact that it moves is the best! You can actually move its legs to make a move. No need for measuring tape if you made the legs right. Props!


----------



## Blackadder

Phenious said:


> Its not fair! I know you put alot of effort and work into this titan and everyone does that scratch builds them, but looking at how much work is needed to make them I could only imagine how hard it would be to make an articulated Bio-Titan. How would one even begin to design a giant bug?!


This is just off the top of my head but I'm thinking that a bio-titan leg joint could be made of heavy solid copper wire. Copper can take a fair degree of flexing before it fatigues. make your leg parts and then drill close tolerance holes in the joint area. insert the copper wire without gluing so it can be easily replaced when it wears out. Naturally the body will have to be as light as possible but I'm sure it can be done.

I always felt that Tyranid and Ork players had it easy to scratch build their pieces as precise measurements and sharply angled corners aren't needed on their models. That's why I had to laugh when I saw GW come out with an Ork Titan. Granted there is a huge amount of detail that comes with the basic hull but the body, legs and head could be made in a couple of evenings. Tyranids would require a fair degree of sculpting talent and I would mould the leg components over a wire armature for strength.

It would be fun to make a Hierophant Bio Titan.

You've got to explore the hobby stores and home building type stores. RC model airplanes use hinges for their moveable control surfaces.



> Any who this thing looks epic! so much detail and the fact that it moves is the best! You can actually move its legs to make a move. No need for measuring tape if you made the legs right. Props!


It can't actually walk so each time you move the legs and feet it has to be rebalanced over it's CG. The articulation is mainly to relieve the tedium of having the same pose forever. LOL

Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

*Live and learn Department: *

Here's some thing I just found out while I was waiting for the *Tamiya* glue to dry. I have always cursed them because the brush doesn't reach to the bottom of the bottle. I've been adding marbles to raise the fluid level but I was just holding the collar around the gimbal and waiting for the glue to set and noticed that the brush is an insert and can be slid out to reach the bottom of the vial. Those insidious Orients; wouldn't you think they would have mentioned that on the label instead of the ridiculous admonishment not to drink the stuff. 

I mean if you have to be warned not to drink plastic glue I'm afraid you won't be long for this world anyway. 

Of course with that in mind one might argue that if you have to be told to slide the brush out you might be too stupid to build plastic models Blackadder. LOL 

Thought I'd get that in that before someone else did, 

EB


----------



## piemaster

So I was reading through this fantastic project and I have a few questions. More general really. I'd like to try my hand at plasticard and the like but have no idea on what to use/where to get it - I thought you'd be the guy to tell me.

Do you buy online or in shops? Also, what materials do you use? I really like your titan as it stands at the moment. Even the details on the underneath of the feet - seriously good work there.

Have you thought about magnets for easily swappable weapons? I seem to recall you were going to make more than one for each arm.

Lastly - are you worried about your joints ceasing up on you with wear and tare? Maybe you could coat the joints in a sturdy layer and then use a lubricant so that the joints move more freely. But not being able to see your model I could be making something out of nothing.

Sorry this is a bit long-winded. Double thumbs up for this one!


----------



## Blackadder

piemaster said:


> So I was reading through this fantastic project and I have a few questions. More general really. I'd like to try my hand at plasticard and the like but have no idea on what to use/where to get it - I thought you'd be the guy to tell me.
> 
> Do you buy online or in shops? Also, what materials do you use? I really like your titan as it stands at the moment. Even the details on the underneath of the feet - seriously good work there.


Fortunately I have some very good hobby stores in my area. I have only been working with plasticard for a little over a year but I have found the best (IMHO) is from Evergreen. There is a grey product who's manufacturer's name escapes me that doesn't seem compatible with the glue I use and I would steer clear of that one and another that is shiny white plastic that has no reaction to plastic glues of any kind. Stick with Evergreen and you won't go wrong.

Man every one likes the tread detail. I did that watching the telly. Aside from the tedium of the six fold repetition it was the easiest and most rewarding aspect of the build. I think the reason is because no one was aware the tread existed. I wasn't. LOL




> Have you thought about magnets for easily swappable weapons? I seem to recall you were going to make more than one for each arm.


Ceramic magnets are certainly a viable option although I would have to make a seperate upper arm for each weapon. I usually mount the swiveling pieces with a 6-32, 8-32, or 10-32 screw and only recently been apprised of the value of the new composite magnets. I'll have to explore the availability of them.

Thanks




> Lastly - are you worried about your joints ceasing up on you with wear and tare? Maybe you could coat the joints in a sturdy layer and then use a lubricant so that the joints move more freely. But not being able to see your model I could be making something out of nothing.


The joints are made of hardwood dowels slightly oversized and a tap in fit. They are extremely stiff and require two hands to move which is how I want them. I made the mistake early on of lubricating one of the joints and the model collapsed of it's own weight so I replaced that dowel.




> Sorry this is a bit long-winded. Double thumbs up for this one!


The more long winded the better. I enjoy discussing modelbuilding and being of assistance. The more we talk on a subject the more we reinforce our knowledge and virtually everyone can learn from another.

Blackadder


----------



## piemaster

Blackadder said:


> I made the mistake early on of lubricating one of the joints and the model collapsed of it's own weight so I replaced that dowel.
> 
> Blackadder


I hadn't thought of that. I guess a collapse would be inevitable - especially if you're going to add lead weights to it.

Evergreen you say? You don't happen to have a handy link at all? I'll hit google after posting this anyway. I don't have any decent hobby stores in my area really. I'll have to pop into a GW and see what's the chat for styrine/etc.

So, for the windows; I didn't quite follow. Are they translucent with a grey tint?

Anyway. Cool build.


----------



## Blackadder

Man I am mired in work and have not been able to devote a lot of time to this project. Here's the bolter as it stands today. You will note the lack of detail on the appendage empennage (Look it up.) I can't find any images on what it's supposed to look like. Mayhaps some kind soul would regale us with a timely image of the butt end of the bolter and the ammo caissons as well ??? I hope

The hat in hand Blackadd


----------



## Blackadder

I'm not getting notifications of replies. I look forward to responses. It's been a busy couple of weeks and I haven't got much done on the lascannon but the bolter is ostensibly finished except for the rear and bottom detail. Lucy is so excited she accidentally stepped on one of her escorts. Fortunately the driver was unharmed.

EB


----------



## Ork_boss

Nice This is comin along nicely


----------



## Jack Mac

Very impressive modelling; your attention to detail is really paying off.


----------



## piemaster

Nicely done EB. Looks like you're nearing the end of your quest to me. Thumbs up.


----------



## BloodAngelsfan

You should post a pic of the titan next to a guardsman for scale. It would give me a better idea of how huge it is.


----------



## Phenious

Blackadder said:


> The gimbal is installed. Now to finish the detailing.
> 
> Don't know why I put off installing the gimball. It really is quite simple.
> 
> First you cut, chop bore, carve, or blast a hole larger than the rotator sphere.
> 
> stuff paper, kleenex, or whatever into the void so you don't waste too much epoxy.
> 
> mix up enough epoxy to fill the hole.
> 
> smear a light coat of vasoline or wax onto the sphere.
> 
> Insert the sphere slightly more than half way into the epoxy. a rim of epoxy will push out around the sphere. don't wipe it off or disturb it; you'll just make a mess.
> 
> Allow the epoxy to set for a few hours. I use epoxy that hardens in 24 hours but after a few hours it is hard enough to handle.
> 
> I use an exacto chisel to remove the rim of epoxy from the ball. The epoxy at this stage comes away readily from the plasticard with no residue. you can even flick it off with your fingernail.
> 
> At this point it's good to note that I have threaded an 8-32 screw into the ball.
> 
> Grabbing the screw with a set of pliers; the ball should come out with a satisfying 'pop'.
> 
> Voila one fully articulated gimbal,
> 
> Blackadder


Ok I would love to know what kind of epoxy you used, so that I know what to look for when I go about designing my own Bio-Titan. I thought I would try working in a few gimbals.


----------



## Asmodeun

Damn English for being a hopelessly inexpressive language due to constantly overused exaggerations in regards to descriptions of expressions. That said I can think of any number of words that would completely fail to do your creation justice. As longer words are generally interpreted as stronger, I've included a great deal of them in this post in an attempt to convey some degree of the amazement that this titan evokes.
Having read this thread, you should be proud of that thing, it is a beast, for lack of better words.


----------



## Blackadder

BloodAngelsfan said:


> You should post a pic of the titan next to a guardsman for scale. It would give me a better idea of how huge it is.


I did post images with some Catchans literally underfoot and others with a Sentinel actually underfoot. As big as it looks Lucie stands only ten and a half inches high which scalewise translates to about fifty feet tall or twice the height of your average two story suburban home. 

Below are a few pictures I just took tonight with my poor obsolete camera. Surprising how many different shades that lamp puts out.

I have it on authority that the figure between the feet is a Tech Priest who (No doubt sans fey regalia.) would be in charge of the beastie. So help me the grey color is growing on me I may go with the grey on grey camo after all.



Asmodeun said:


> Damn English for being a hopelessly inexpressive language due to constantly overused exaggerations in regards to descriptions of expressions. That said I can think of any number of words that would completely fail to do your creation justice. As longer words are generally interpreted as stronger, I've included a great deal of them in this post in an attempt to convey some degree of the amazement that this titan evokes.
> Having read this thread, you should be proud of that thing, it is a beast, for lack of better words.


How shall I respond to such glowing speechlessness. 

Thanks,

The true to form Blackadder


----------



## enieffac

:shok:

People like you keep people like me humble :ireful2: and it takes a whole lot to deflate my ego :cray: 
Keep up the good work!!!!


----------



## shaantitus

Yours is soooo much better than mine. Wow


----------



## raverboi

holy sheet
makes me want to build another one, epic epic work man


----------



## Blackadder

My poor showing for this weekend. The hull of the Turbo laser detail and the beginning of the base of the barrel of one of the guns using a wrap of the aforementioned HO boxcar siding


----------



## Asmodeun

Coooooooool! Keep up the sweet work, and I hope you do some tutorials on how to make some of the things you do, because really, they're as good as, if not better than the official pieces.


----------



## piemaster

Asmodeun said:


> Coooooooool! Keep up the sweet work, and I hope you do some tutorials on how to make some of the things you do, because really, they're as good as, if not better than the official pieces.


I second that motion.


----------



## Alexander_67

You sir are a wizard! I mean seriously its already a doppleganger for the FW one.


----------



## Blackadder

Not being a gentleman of leisure I've spent the better part of my past three weekends raking leaves. Fine employment for my time when I should be working on that d---ed Turbo laser.

Here's the poor showing for this week.




























Blackadder


----------



## NerdyOgre254

Very nice. What other weapons are you considering doing for this beast?


----------



## piemaster

Blackadder said:


> Here's the poor showing for this week.


I think not my friend:so_happy:. Slow progress just means that you have a life away from the hobby knife. Sure everyone wants to see progress, I'm just happy to get a trinket every now and then. You're putting so much work into this baby.

Also interested in if you are going to model any crew members at all?


----------



## Blackadder

NerdyOgre254 said:


> Very nice. What other weapons are you considering doing for this beast?


All the weapons available for the 'hound eventually but just these two for now until the model is completed and painted. The swivel mounts I designed allows for interchangeable weapons by just popping them onto the gimbal mount ball. 



piemaster said:


> I think not my friend:so_happy:. Slow progress just means that you have a life away from the hobby knife. Sure everyone wants to see progress, I'm just happy to get a trinket every now and then. You're putting so much work into this baby.
> 
> Also interested in if you are going to model any crew members at all?


As for crew members as there is no interior detail all the inside stuff from FW is omitted including the crew. I will install the cockpit drivers but I seriously think they will not be visible as I intend to use smoked windows in the cockpit.

Blackadder


----------



## piemaster

I see. Isn't it like 3am or something where you are? That's if you live East coast. I guess its 10 at night on the other side. Anyway, keep at it.


----------



## Blackadder

piemaster said:


> I see. Isn't it like 3am or something where you are? That's if you live East coast. I guess its 10 at night on the other side. Anyway, keep at it.


Yeah I get up really early (3:38AM today, I have difficulty sleeping too long; another symptom of manic obsessive behavior! LOL) to put in some building and going over my email before I go to work. Naturally I check my threads for interesting comments.

I hate those nightly little slices of death, 

Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

Wanted to get this up before the end of the weekend. Lucie has guns, well weapons anyway. It's been a long wait but they came out fairly good. All that detail on the top and all you see is the bottoms and sides. The weapon hanging arms were a real bear. getting the length angle and size was really trying. The whole this is just slapped together temporarily so I size up the proportions. Everything looks okay so I'll finish the detail.

Blackadder


----------



## piemaster

Wow Blackadder. I went away for a bit but when I came back I was greeted with loveliness. Are you planning on calling her Lucie properly or is this just a pet name? Also what ideas for paint schemes do you have? (sorry if its already been mentioned)


----------



## Blackadder

piemaster said:


> Wow Blackadder. I went away for a bit but when I came back I was greeted with loveliness. Are you planning on calling her Lucie properly or is this just a pet name? Also what ideas for paint schemes do you have? (sorry if its already been mentioned)


Lucie is short for Lucius Pattern. 

I'm probably going to go with the FW yellow and grey of their signature Warhound. But I'm still looking.

Welcome back,

EB


----------



## Jaxx23

WOW, does this thing have detail. Your attention to detail is less than GODLY! After this is done im gonna want the
Time SPent building and painting
Money spend on product


----------



## Blackadder

Jaxx23 said:


> WOW, does this thing have detail. Your attention to detail is less than GODLY! After this is done im gonna want the
> Time SPent building and painting
> Money spend on product


Figure an hour a day since April first 2009. Money would be impossible to calculate as I have so much stuff just lying around; figure $100 to $150 bucks

I am so close now I don't want to take the chance and rush the end work. I'm working on the leg armour right now; not too much to show but I should have it close to completed this weekend, er; the leg armour that is. Two millimeters seems a bit too thin and the ankle armour is a real bear. Getting the proportions and angles right and still allowing for the flexibility. This model wasn't really meant to walk or my proportions are off. 

Naah! It wasn't meant to walk. 

I reject FW's reality and substitute my own, 

Blackadder


----------



## Asmodeun

Hah, well said!
It seems so close to completion that I'll have to impose upon your generosity and ask for an occasional manic laugh.


----------



## asianavatar

Amazing work. Your attention to detail and craftsman ship is amazing. Do you mind telling me what you do for a living, architect or engineer maybe?

Anyways keep up the great work. Oh and reppy to you, lots of reppy.


----------



## Pherion

This is looking great! You've got a masterfull hand of the large model. I'd be baffled as to even how to start a project like this. Rep to you for taking on the challange and suceeding phenominaly!


----------



## Damned Fist

I've enjoyed watching this one! Add me to the list of those who can't wait to see this painted up. Fantastic work:victory:


----------



## Blackadder

I took a week off from building because I was becoming too complacent in my work. It's a telltale sign that I have been over saturated and tend to get sloppy but last night I got my groove back and put the finishing touches on the armour i.e. cut the grooves for the panel segments. I first shallow scored the plasticard with my utility knife and then made a few more passes to deepen the scores. The holding the knife at an angle I made furrows on either side of the scored lines and sanded the raised ridges smooth. Then with a razor saw I deepened and straightened the furrows and filed the surface smooth again. 








The grooves look about done and the armour as you see it is just clipped in place for now. 

EB


----------



## Blackadder

I've pretty much decided to go with the FW original paint job. 



I've seen a lot of colour schemes and I like this one the best. As of right now I've only the void projectors, exhaust stacks, the cable conduit and connectors, the cockpit windows and head armour and a bit more detail on the armament and I'll be ready to paint. I'm hoping to get the void projectors and exhausts completed tomorrow.

Blackadder


----------



## Evil beaver2

Incredible!!
You should make a mould or something and make a few more, who wouldnt like an army of titans!
Cant wait to see it painted.


----------



## Blackadder

Evil beaver2 said:


> Incredible!!
> You should make a mould or something and make a few more, who wouldnt like an army of titans!
> Cant wait to see it painted.


While the prospect is interesting I can't imagine the play value of a half dozen or so titans in a game. Who could compete with such an force? Has anyone moulded a FW titan which would probably be easier as the pieces are already cast.

My son (who actually plays the game) says he can't even use all the superheavy tanks we have in a game because no one else has a comparable army.

EB


----------



## Blackadder

Asmodeun said:


> Hah, well said!
> It seems so close to completion that I'll have to impose upon your generosity and ask for an occasional manic laugh.


The maniacal laugh is subliminal but implied.



asianavatar said:


> Amazing work. Your attention to detail and craftsman ship is amazing. Do you mind telling me what you do for a living, architect or engineer maybe?
> 
> 
> Anyways keep up the great work. Oh and reppy to you, lots of reppy.


Frustrated artist definitely but my real job is technical troubleshooting.



Pherion said:


> This is looking great! You've got a masterfull hand of the large model. I'd be baffled as to even how to start a project like this. Rep to you for taking on the challange and suceeding phenominaly!


My technique is to break the model down into a lot of small models and not to be in a rush because when it's finished I'll just be starting another but different model.







Lucie has been free standing for a few days now. the rubber bands are to keep the right spur in place during re-gluing. I accidentally broke the spur off. It just happened that my ham fisted hands managed to break off one of the spurs when press fitting the greaves for the first time. The rear appendage is firmly glued and pinned this time so a repeat mishap is not likely. 

The greaves are removable for ease of painting and maintenance and are just pinned in place with 0.060" plastic rods and sockets. 

Blackadder 

Lucie appears to have a hulking appearance of late. After all the concern that the legs looked too flimsy it turns out that they appear more massive than that of the original. 

That's alright I like my females with a healthy set of gams. 

EB


----------



## scubamansam

wow very nice i was looking at all the detail but i don't see any mechanicum symbols still looks great though


----------



## Blackadder

I'm not going to overdo the insignia thing but I'll apply those that I see fit after the final basic painting. i plan to spray paint and airbrush for the most part and naturally the geegaws will be of different colours.

I do plan to add a lot more skulls and banners etc.

Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

Just got my computer back up and running today. I had a big problem with reloading windows and have been virtually off line for the better part of two weeks. Naturally the first thing I checked was my emails. Not very many replies from the various forum I usually frequent. I've done some major revamping of the the head and cockpit and finally made the windows and windshield. I installed the cockpit crew and made them so they are visible though the windows. Not technically accurate as looking at the cockpit layout the crew actually sits below the window sill! That doesn't make sense to me so I changed their position. Perhaps their seats elevate so they can look actually around. Anyway thats my story. My son is still looking for the airbrush. I asked him for it about a week ago so I don't hold out much hope that it's still available. Guess I'll bite the bullet and buy a new one. 

Taking some pictures later but really not much to show for such a long hiatus. 

Thanks for the interest, 

EB


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## piemaster

Hey Edmund. Glad to see you're back up online round these parts. Good to see you haven't come up against the modelling wall yet. Its remarkable you've kept going ont he same project for so long. I can't keep on track with the same stuff for longer than two weeks at best. Good on you mate for stickin' at it.


----------



## Blackadder

It seems Lucie is finally finished; as far as manufacturing the parts is concerned anyway. All that is left is the final assembly after painting. Thanks to all who showed such patience during the nine months (actually eight because I didn't start in earnest until the middle of April last.) 

I did a major revamping of the roof panel on the cockpit because once the brow trim was added the overhang did not look thick enough. I added another millimetre to the thickness which still isn't as much as the original but I think gives the head a bit more sleek overall appearance. 




























See I'm not slavish in my attempt to copy, (Yeah, Right). My rationale is; this is the Lucius MarkII version. 




























Anyone who has an original FW product can readily see that I widened the hull on my version and of course faired in the void generator housings into the top engine compartment. I straightened the fore to aft angle on the side of the carapace and lowered the overall height the void generator housing projects above the carapace. These were not mistakes as the changes greatly please me aesthetically. If I were to built a FW 'hound I would attempt to incorporate these amendments into that model as well. 










The void shield projectors and the exhaust stacks (Thats the little cylindrical pieces strung on the wire for painting in the foreground.) are finished as well. I still debating whether to put the rivet detail on the greaves. They look so tiny compared to the massiveness of the panels on the original. 

I'm using Ambroid thin cement now and I must say its a lot more volatile than Tamiya. It evaporates before I can set the rivets so I have to glue them one at a time whereas with Tamiya I could put a few dots of liquid and set two or three rivets before it dried. A word to the wise "Don't leave the cap loose on the vial of Ambroid overnight or you will have significantly less the next day." 

I used the empty Tamiya bottle to store the Ambroid glue as its less prone to tipping and the applicator brush is much better for applying fine detail. The brush is the main reason I stopped using Ambroid years ago. 

Any suggestions or critiques will be welcome because I plan to paint this sucker this weekend, 

Blackadder


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## Damned Fist

Great work! Now for some paint?:wink: (Just DON'T try to knock it out in one weekend! After all those long months of building this spectacular model you don't want to rush the finishing touch!)


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## Blackadder

Damned Fist said:


> Great work! Now for some paint?:wink: (Just DON'T try to knock it out in one weekend! After all those long months of building this spectacular model you don't want to rush the finishing touch!)


To late! I painted it this morning on my coffee break; anyone see that brush cleaner? Actually I'm scared to death about painting this and will take great pains in doing the best I can.

The methodical Blackadder


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## shaantitus

Best warhound ever. End of story. There is only one titan better. That magnificent warlord that was featured on BOLS several months ago. Admittedly it is another class entirely.
This one is better than forgeworld, armorcast and all the other titan builds i have seen. Looks like Edmund Blackadder is even more legendary than I thought. 
Seriously. The most detailed and professional titan build i have been priveliged to witness. Congratulations on not only setting the the bar higher but removing it entirely and hiding it behind the house. You have an extrordinary paint job to do.


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## Blackadder

piemaster said:


> Hey Edmund. Glad to see you're back up online round these parts. Good to see you haven't come up against the modelling wall yet. Its remarkable you've kept going ont he same project for so long. I can't keep on track with the same stuff for longer than two weeks at best. Good on you mate for stickin' at it.


I have the denizens of this forum thank for that. Without their accolades I might have just let her gather dust. there's nothing like the enthusiasm of ones peers to keep you on target.

Thanks to all for your interest, it kept me going,

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

shaantitus said:


> Best warhound ever. End of story. There is only one titan better. That magnificent warlord that was featured on BOLS several months ago. Admittedly it is another class entirely.
> This one is better than forgeworld, armorcast and all the other titan builds i have seen. Looks like Edmund Blackadder is even more legendary than I thought.
> Seriously. The most detailed and professional titan build i have been priveliged to witness. Congratulations on not only setting the the bar higher but removing it entirely and hiding it behind the house. You have an extrordinary paint job to do.


Interesting you should mention that. I've had my eye on duplicating that noble effort. It truly is a magnificent effort and tops the FW warhound by an order of magnitude and then some. The problem is that there is so much detail on it that it will make the warhound seem simplistic in comparison.

For anyone not familiar with what we are on about, here is the definitive Warlord titan and none other need apply.










http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk260/The_Blackadder/WARLORD TITAN/

The foot pad disks are 3 inches in diameter.

Blackadder


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## scubamansam

he he i got to meet the guy who made that warlord he brought it by the L.A. bunker a couple months ago for a apoc game any way im likeing how the titans looking +rep


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## Blackadder

The long anticipated paint has begun and in the main it's coming out as well as I expected. I did a lot of masking the first week and experimenting with my antique airbrush. After a thorough cleaning it was working good as new but the fine spray tip assembly is missing and no local hobby stores support the Badger 350 anymore. 

I'm a bit disappointed in the metallic paint on the legs but as everything is only the base coat I should be able to rectify the shininess. 

Anyway here she is showing her colours. Please bear in mind this is only the basic paint. The detailing will begin when I get the fine tip assembly.


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## Zezema535

Titans FTW! looking good so far, Keep it up


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## piemaster

This is a good start. Its nice to see lucy with some clothes on :grin:
+rep


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## BloodAngelsfan

Lovin it! Keep it comin!


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## Blackadder

piemaster said:


> This is a good start. Its nice to see lucy with some clothes on :grin:
> +rep


Actually Lucy in the all together is a delight to behold. Oh, you mean that Lucy. Yes well she's coming along nicely; pity about the metallic spray I had such high hopes for it. There's no substitute for taking your time boys and girls. 

On a sad note:
My local art supply house has let me down. They promised to have the fine tip assembly for my airbrush in Friday last but came a cropper. Monday is my best hope for continuing the painting. On a brighter note I did paint the armament; pictures to follow..............

EB


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## Damned Fist

Hummmm, what kind of airbrush do you use?


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## Blackadder

Damned Fist said:


> Hummmm, what kind of airbrush do you use?


A Badger 350 but I didn't use it for the metallic coat. That came direct from a spray can. Not to worry I can set it right.

EB


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## Blackadder

The yellow is Testors Flat Yellow in those tiny jars which cost over a buck and a half now. I remember when they were a dime a jar??? I don't like water base paint and it's only the base coat. I'm going to wash it out with some shadowing with rust and highlighting with various shades of lighter yellow and orange in hopes of achieving a similar look to the FW offering. The Carapace will be likewise highlighted and a subtle coat of blue to add depth would not be amiss. The metallic paint on the legs and feet was a total mistake and I efforting to remedy that.


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## Azwraith

if this is a imperial fist warhound.. im going to poo my pants!!!!!!


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## Blackadder

What's an Imperial Fist???


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## Azwraith

Blackadder said:


> What's an Imperial Fist???


ZOMG!!!!!....









used from Games Workshop Online Store without permission


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## Oodles

I LOVE Lysander! He is soooo pimp!!!!!


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## Blackadder

I had no idea that colour scheme was dedicated to a particular army. I was given to understand that the titan force was a separate entity under the auspices of Adeptus Mechanicus.

N'est-ce pas?

Blackadder


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## Baron Spikey

Indeed, the Imperial Fists don't *own* the colour Yellow- plus Astartes don't have control of any Titans, or Titan sized vehicles.


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## Azwraith

oh wow i thought that imperial fists own the colour yellow and that all things painted yellow in the entire world are either dedicated to the imperial fists or they explode!

if your read my original question.. oh question.. you might find that your comment is redundant baron spikey.


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## piemaster

Yeah, Titans are like the Imperial Navy. You see IN flyers supporting ground units but their decals and iconography do not match those of the ground units. Titans operate to support the ground units but are not affiliated with them.

And yes, Astartes don't use Titans. You know ever since the Hours Heresy.



Azwraith said:


> all things painted yellow in the entire world are either dedicated to the imperial fists or they explode!


You forget Bad Moons (or was that encompassed by the 'they explode') and sometimes Tzeench, oh and Iron Warriors to some extent. :grin:


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## aja10000

OMG this dude is Holy I tell you, Holy.


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## Azwraith

piemaster i was being sarcastic 

and yes this is awesome so back on topic!


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## Blackadder

God help me I have committed a grievous act of heresy; I have misplaced Heresy on Line after a computer malfunction the devil take virus producers. I am so far behind in posting my Lucie updates to this august forum may the Emperor forgive me or at least allow me a mercifully quick immolation for my transgression.

No?

Right well then here's my updates: (Blackadder doin' his best Monty Python imitation.) 

A rare glimpse into the Adder's Sanctum Sanctorum that holiest of holies; my work bench. Rarely is it as neat as in these pictures I just cleared it of construction mess and substituted painting mess. I was surprised how much paint I had left from ten years ago and real toxic stuff at that. 

*Flo-Quil* railroad colours remember that. 

*WARNING* *Known by the state of California to cause cancer in white mice!!! *

Hell! Everything causes cancer in white mice. 

Anyhow I got my 'fine' tip assembly for the antique Badger and tried it out today and here is the result. Naturally I didn't practice because what I do first always comes out best and it's all downhill from there so I did the yellow parts mainly because I was scared to do them. I used Testors flat yellow and added red blemishes with ModelMasters British red which is almost a burgundy colour and goes on the yellow in what appears to me a close match to the FW yellow headed Warhound.



Okay so I'm fairly good at modeling but I suck at painting.

Blackadder


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## piemaster

The red is a really nice touch. It looks like the FW paintjob to me. Have some rep to keep you going.


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## Viscount Vash

Class stuff Blackadder,your amazing titan progresses well.


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## Blackadder

Thanks for the replies and the rep's. Update to follow:

Gawd help me I have done the deed! For better or worse in the early hours this morning after a fitful few hours of sleep alas I could put off the painting of the carapace no longer. Armed with all the necessary pigments and thinners; my ancient airbrush cleaned and polished as if it were new, I girded myself, loaded up the base coat and commenced the nefarious act. Damn it looked soooo blue!

Then in a flurry of desperate enthusiasm I cleaned the brush and proceeded to apply the highlighting coat. Working in panic mode for fear of a mistake I did the entire job before the six hour this morning and on the seventh I rested. I must confess I am pleased with the outcome. It looks much better that I had anticipated. Whether it meets with the expectations of my loyal posters is another but It's the best I could do.

Here are the preliminary pictures I may do a bit of touching up before removing the tape.









































































Blackadder


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## scubamansam

O took me a sec to spot the patterns looks great as usual


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## shaantitus

Truly spectacular.

The force is strong in this one.

Rep


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## Blackadder

Thanks for all the input; I made a concoction of tinbitz and desert yellow, thinned it with windshield washer fluid, and brushed it on with a fan blender. This gave a dull metallic sheen to the legs slightly lighter than tinbitz alone. then I dry brushed on some powdered copper and handrubbed it into the paint which highlighted the edges. I then dry brushed on some powdered aluminum onto the hydraulic pistons and gimbals. You've got to be careful using powdered metals as some are toxic such as aluminum which may or may not be a major contributor to Alzhimer's condition..... where was I ..... oh yeah; I still have to weather the legs a bit more as they look too perfect. I'll probably do that with a ocher and a gray wash. I need to experiment.



Notice that the aluminum powder imparts a high polished chrome appearance to the pistons an effect I don't believe can be achieved with aluminum or silver paint. A diminution of short term memory is a small price to pay for such a result.....duhiiiieeee.

I'm doing the crenelated trim on the carapace at the moment; I initially painted it gunmetal but I scraped it off, it looked too uniform. 



I've decided to hand rub in powdered graphite which gives me just the effect I'm looking for. Graphite is at least cheap, I get it by scraping pencil lead. Rubbed in graphite on the crenelations. I don't know if the camera can pick up the subtle difference. It's much more apparent to the eye.

You can't beat God for intelligent design.

EB


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## humakt

I really like your style of painting and how you are not going for a standard, boltgun and wash to get the effects you want.


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## Blackadder

Phenious said:


> Its not fair! I know you put alot of effort and work into this titan and everyone does that scratch builds them, but looking at how much work is needed to make them I could only imagine how hard it would be to make an articulated Bio-Titan. How would one even begin to design a giant bug?!
> 
> Any who this thing looks epic! so much detail and the fact that it moves is the best! You can actually move its legs to make a move. No need for measuring tape if you made the legs right. Props!


I just noticed I never responded to this question.

Joints for the Bio-Titan would be easy to obtain; Any Radio Control vehicle hobby store has plastic rod shaped hinges for control surfaces. They would be ideal for the thin joints in the legs of Bio-Titans. They come in various diameters and I believe some can be locked with a set screw.

HTH, EB


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## Blackadder

Phenious said:


> Ok I would love to know what kind of epoxy you used, so that I know what to look for when I go about designing my own Bio-Titan. I thought I would try working in a few gimbals.


Damn I don't know how I missed all these replies; sorry for the delay but I use Metalset A4 24hour epoxy almost exclusively. Its tough as nails, sticks to anything, can be drilled, sanded, and tapped for threads.

http://www.skygeek.com/a4-11oz.html

Just google it for a different dealer.


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## Blackadder

humakt said:


> I really like your style of painting and how you are not going for a standard, boltgun and wash to get the effects you want.


Thanks but I really don't have a painting style being new to airbrushing; I had the Badger for ages but I mainly bought it for my son to use. I did a little brushing on some old Armourcast Baneblades just to show him how to spraypaint and coach him on mixing paints but other than that no experience.

Basic airbrushing appears to be just commonsense; don't apply too much paint too quickly, spray past the target before releasing the button, paint in only one direction in other words don't spray back and forth, Keep your brush an even distance from the target don't swoop down in the middle of your stroke. And above all take your time, you're going to live with that bad paint job for a long time if you're too much in a hurry.

As for the metal dust and the graphite. I saw the powder in the paint store for gilding picture frames and thought it would work on modeling. The graphite I have been using for years and I scrap a pile of it from an ordinary pencil dip a #1 or#2 bright brush in mineral spirits and then swish it around in the graphite to make a paste (pencil graphite is really a mixture of graphite and clay)and paint it on the model. The real beauty of using it is it washes right off with Windex if you make a mistake. I never bother to fix it with sealer as I don't use my models in the rain.

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Thanks, the pattern is more discernible in person and has the weird bonus of confounding the eye as to where the exact surface is! Spooky, 3D from an airbrush. Anyhow here's Lucie with some junk in her trunk i.e. about 4 ounces of lead. She's finally pose-able on her own.

At long last Lucie can stand on her own without extremely judicious balancing. I cut two holes into her generator housings this morning and installed about two ounces of lead. Hastily assembling her and assuming a none too flattering pose (thats some old paint rags sticking out the back to keep the lead plates in place.) I snapped some pictures of a dynamic pose the first ever where she didn't have to have both feet firmly planted on the ground. 

I am so pleased I could burst and had to share this moment with you all. 

Thanks for all your interest and support, 

The ecstatic Blackadder 

Not as blue as this flash image seems, there must be some highly reflective blue components in the pigment 


An oddly cute puppy pose for the toddler Lucie. Not at all a menacing war machine look. 


a birds eye view of romping, stomping, death hell and distruction. 


Lucie standing on the balls of her feet for the first time. Glorious!!! 


A clear top view shot, but I need a ladder. 


Lucie looking strangely knock kneed when a gimbal shifted but she didn't topple.


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## Unforgiven302

TOTALLY AWESOME! Glad to see this come together so well. Great job all around! +rep for you good man!

Now that you made this one for me, you are free to make your own... :biggrin:


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## piemaster

Have you got some size comparison photos? Preferably alongside some army being crushed to death underneath her feet, or a note saying 'to my dearest piemaster... enjoy!'

Either is cool. Seriously though top notch work old chap. +rep

EDIT - must spread the love before I can. For now an IOU will suffice.


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## Blackadder

Unforgiven302 said:


> TOTALLY AWESOME! Glad to see this come together so well. Great job all around! +rep for you good man!
> 
> Now that you made this one for me, you are free to make your own... :biggrin:





piemaster said:


> Have you got some size comparison photos? Preferably alongside some army being crushed to death underneath her feet, or a note saying 'to my dearest piemaster... enjoy!'
> 
> Either is cool. Seriously though top notch work old chap. +rep
> 
> EDIT - must spread the love before I can. For now an IOU will suffice.


Thanks for the reps and the kind words. You're right I should make a comparison photo. I have that old battleboard that I planned to revamp for my son when he returns from college. I take some photos this weekend 

If it doesn't rain,

EB


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## BearingTheWord

Absolutely phenomenal and inspirational...Thank you for sharing your immense talents with us here. :wink:


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## Blackadder

BearingTheWord said:


> Absolutely phenomenal and inspirational...Thank you for sharing your immense talents with us here. :wink:


When I see a post like this I greatly appreciate the thought and sentiment but a little part of me can't help but feel my motives have been misconstrued and that this thread may be perceived as a self-aggrandizement tour de force. While I cherish the accolades the purpose and intent of this thread is to share building techniques and to demonstrate what can be accomplished with a little imagination and a lot of manic obsessive determination. 

My greatest joy is in relating how to do specific parts of this build and I relish questions regarding such and as such this is the primary purpose of this thread.

And hell my hats are away too small as it is anyway,

The hydro cephalic Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

BFG's?

Someone asked for Lucie in a battlefield scene with figures for comparison. Well I repainted the old Battleboard and set up Lucie and the tanks etc. but my son must have all his armies with him at school; the only stuff left was pretty pitiful so heres Lucie and company advancing on some foe who in for a very bad day.

















Okay so I suck at picture taking,

EB


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## Marneus Calgar

Woah, thats awesome. 

I would happily pay for that... Would you ever consider making "schematics" as it were, since I would happily try and make this for myself. Honestly its awesome. 

+Some well deserved rep! Provided I can give it to you!


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## Blackadder

I lost track of this forum when I re-formated my computer, sorry to be so delinquent on posting:

I took most of the summer off from modeling as I just got tired of doing it.

I also can't believe I lost track of this forum for so long; I have a lot of catching up to do.

This weekend I started detailing Lucie and my first project was the daunting Gryphon Logo. I calculated the proper size for my particular greaves was 1.25 inches by 0.82 inches. This approximates the area covered by the FW Mark Tait model. 

    

The direction Mark's Gryphon logo faces always bothered me so I reversed mine to face left purely for asthetics mind you lest my political affiliation be misconstrued. 



Now a question; what is the significance of the capital 'T' on the left greave and is there any clear representation available for the heraldic drapery hanging from the waist armour.

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Marneus Calgar said:


> Woah, thats awesome.
> 
> I would happily pay for that... Would you ever consider making "schematics" as it were, since I would happily try and make this for myself. Honestly its awesome.
> 
> +Some well deserved rep! Provided I can give it to you!


I do not think FW would be very appreciative of me posting dimensions even of my scratch built effort. :nono: And selling said dimensions would be a definite ':nono:'. The copious posts on the construction should be more than enough to get you going on a replica and I should be glad to offer any assistance you require.

EB


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## Blackadder

I am in the process of building a base/stand for this model as she is slightly unstable in some positions.

The Forgeworld model can only be build static in one pose although virtual any reasonable pose is possible.

Lucie is fully articulated. All the leg, ankle and toe joints can flex to assume any position likewise the waist hip and pelvis joints are also movable. Whilst the head and neck is able to move within the constraints of the upper shield collar.

The weapons are mounted on ball and socket gimbals and can be positioned within the limits of the carapace.

Here is Lucie assuming a different stance. Note that the pistons and cylinders on the legs and toes move and slide in and out with the poses.
Engineering the ability be posed into the constraints of the design was the biggest obstacle to overcome on this project and consumed the most time; especially the toe joints.


       

All well and good Blackadder but you give half a dozen images of all the same pose. Tsk, tsk,

Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

After many months of procrastinating I have bit the bullet as it were and commenced aging weathering and otherwise s--ting up Lucie so she doesn't look so new and clean. I studied a lot of weathering techniques and some of them are quite involved. Layers of this and that paint and wash and fixative and most of them I would have quit before the fifth or sixth coat. Having actually served in a combat zone I have first hand knowledge of what military vehicles look like in battlefield conditions and usually they're just grimy and battered. Now I didn't pour my heart and soul into building Lucie just to inflict battle damage unto her but I did attempt to add some filth and this is the result.

I used my old standby that I used on model railroad rolling stock i.e. Graphite scrapped from a soft lead pencil and automotive windshield washer fluid. I added some Tin Bitz just to keep the FW flavor. I liberally spread the mixture on with a wide flat fine haired brush until the whole thing looked like a disgusting mess. Then before the fluid dried I brushed the whole area with a soft tooth brush until the fluid evaporated. If it doesn't come out to your expectations, slather on some more wiper fluid. The beauty of this technique is you can change it if you don't like the result.


Below is the initial result and I can't say I'm displeased with the outcome but the pictures are a bit more coppery than the actual model. I pictured the megabolter along side of the aged and weathered turbolaser for comparison and the greaves and waste /hip armour is also done but not to the degree that the lascannon is. I can't decide which I prefer.


After many months of procrastinating I have bit the bullet as it were and commenced aging weathering and otherwise s--ting up Lucie so she doesn't look so new and clean. I studied a lot of weathering techniques and some of them are quite involved. Layers of this and that paint and wash and fixative and most of them I would have quit before the fifth or sixth coat. Having actually served in a combat zone I have first hand knowledge of what military vehicles look like in battlefield conditions and usually they're just grimy and battered. Now I didn't pour my heart and soul into building Lucie just to inflict battle damage unto her but I did attempt to add some filth and this is the result.

I used my old standby that I used on model railroad rolling stock i.e. Graphite scrapped from a soft lead pencil and automotive windshield washer fluid. I added some Tin Bitz just to keep the FW flavor. I liberally spread the mixture on with a wide flat fine haired brush until the whole thing looked like a disgusting mess. Then before the fluid dried I brushed the whole area with a soft tooth brush until the fluid evaporated. If it doesn't come out to your expectations, slather on some more wiper fluid. The beauty of this technique is you can change it if you don't like the result.

Below is the initial result and I can't say I'm displeased with the outcome but the pictures are a bit more coppery than the actual model. I pictured the megabolter along side of the aged and weathered turbolaser for comparison and the greaves and waste /hip armour is also done but not to the degree that the lascannon is. I can't decide which I prefer.

     

These came out satisfactory so tomorrow I'll apply the same technique to the rest of the model.

Blackadder


----------



## Blackadder

I really feel I've been procrastinating letting this go for a few months but I couldn't bring myself to administer paint until I had psyched myself up to the task. This wasn't the time to rush into as it could only be done once. I experimented with a lot of weathering techniques, some very complex and for the life of me I can't say I see any benefit to a lot of steps especially using "fixative" and "clearcoats". Mainly they just make the paint look too thick and obliterate the fine detail. On a small figure that may be okay but since I omitted a lot of detail on Lucie as it is I didn't think I could afford to diminish what there was of it.

Lucie has a uniform base coat of gray automotive sandable primer, a coat of white primer on the head, and body armour because I made a mistake and needed a lighter base coat for the yellow bits. I used Testors flat yellow with an airbrush to paint the head and body armour.

The legs and feet were gray primer with a wash of graphite (shaved pencil lead), washer fluid and "tinbitz" after which I rubbed in some copper powder for highlights.

I did solicit ideas for colouring suggestions but of all the iterations of the Lucius Warhound schemes I always preferred this one and I'd be damned if I was just going to go with shades of gray as my unimaginative gut feelings dictated.

Thank God I didn't have to decide on a Mars pattern theme; there isn't one scheme that I like. If I ever build a Mars Warhound I may use the same yellow and blue-gray motif, wouldn't that be awesome?

Anyway the reason for this post:

More images and damn me if she still doesn't looks too blue in the flash pictures. I antiqued her last night; took some photos early this morning 4:00 AM and rushed to post them. I used a wash of Citadel "gunmetal", powdered graphite and windshield washer fluid to thin the paint, smeared it on and worked it in with a toothbrush, stiff bristle 1/2" flat and a fan blender for the hard to reach places. The hull under the carapace looks a bit too gray but that should be amendable with some Windex and or washer fluid. This technique (For want of a better term) has quickness going for it at least; I had the whole carapace and hull done in less than an hour.

 Natural lighting doesn't cut it.

She's not really as blue as the flash images portray. 

Lucie in a defensive posture. 

Lucie hunkering down in attack mode 

A bird's eye view of pure malevolence. 

Gee I dropped my battle banner. 

Not the best position for an adversary to be in. 

Look no flash! 

My favorite view of Lucie sez the arseman Blackadder.

The shield projectors and exhausts were then washed with "tinbits" and washer fluid. I've gotta rework the exhaust soot stains.

God help me I have done the deed, 

The Blackadder


----------



## NerdyOgre254

Blackadder said:


> When I see a post like this I greatly appreciate the thought and sentiment but a little part of me can't help but feel my motives have been misconstrued and that this thread may be perceived as a self-aggrandizement tour de force.


Well, the rest of us who have been around since day one know that you were shitting yourself at the start of it...

It's looking damn good. Have you had an opportunity to get it on the field of battle yet?


----------



## Blackadder

At long last I have installed the power cables to the underside of the head, er cockpit, er command deck. I wanted to keep the head removable for repair and modification and I stumbled on the idea to make the power cables plug in so they can be disconnected regularly.

I took advantage of the 'Evergreen' tubing telescoping properties and built up some male plugs to fit into the sockets previously fabricated soooo long ago although at the time I had no inkling of what I would even use for power conduit (which was so graciously donated by Jabba ka Hutt) and are the only truly FW items on Lucie. The rubber cable lent itself well to drilling with a fine pin drill bit and subsequently a 1/16th inch drill bit. I cyan-acitate glued 1/16th rod into the hole and added the appropriate sleeves to build the plug into a snug fitting end to fit into the connecting sleeve.

After waiting for the glue to dry I actually went on a customer call whilst I was waiting; below is the result.

Fully detachable conduits with very little evidence that they can be disconnected.

Man if I could only work this fast full time I could build dozens of these puppies.

The indolent Blackadder


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## magnus962

There clearly hasn't been enough posting of praise since your return Blackadder. This project is truly one of the pinnacles of scratchbuilding on this entire website. Please keep it up.

Also I was just curious, looking at all you have accomplished on this badboy so far, is there anything you would change looking back?


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## Blackadder

Interesting question, I suppose I would have made the head with removable armour for access to the interior of the cockpit. The head and carapace were the first parts I fabricated and they were initially a trial run so I could get a feel for the scale. Also at that time I had no idea how detailed the project would be when completed other than I knew I wanted a very close approximation of a genuine FW Warhound. The other item I would have considered changing but I am glad I didn't in retrospect is the thickness of the ceiling of the carapace.* I used 1/2 inch poster board in the prototype which subsequently became the core of the actual model. Came the time to install the underside detail and I could only approximate that detail because of that thickness and also the fact that I made the hull wider that the FW original (I did make it wider for aesthetic purposes so I could merge the 'Void generators' into the upper hull.) Naturally because of that change the 'servo compartments' had to be modified in shape and size.

*The reason I am happy about the thickness of the carapace ceiling is that the mount pylons take a lot of abuse when installing and removing the weapons. They are a press fit and a 1/4 inch ceiling would probably not take the force of the pressure to pop them into and out of the weapon sockets. 

These are the initial and only drawings (I believe) I made at the start of the project. 

 

You will note in the above drawing that I originally made the width of the hull the same as in the FW model but then sketched in a wider hull which pleased me more aesthetically.



The above top/bottom view was very much a surprise to me for shortly after I began the project I lost these drawings and only after a year or so later (and Lucie was basically built) found them copied into an old hard drive for reference when I made the image below. It's interesting that I actually took into account the under side modifications in this drawing and a year later subliminally reproduced my own work without benefit of my original ideas for reference. Ha!



This projection is the only photoshop (Photoimpact) image I made. The most egregious mistake is the width of the top hull in relation to the vent screens and fortunately I didn't have this drawing when I built Lucie or she would have looked dramatically different than she actually does. 

I'm not one given to waste a lot of time in planning and therefore always pay a large price in time and effort correcting mistakes but that's how we learn boys and girls isn't it.

Ouch,

The Blackadder


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## piemaster

Good to see more progress on this puppy. What else do you have planned for her? Have you managed to put her next to a FW titan at all to see how your efforts look next to one. I don't imagine for one second that you would see any discrepancy between the two (yours seems to be more detailed than the FW one). I'm just interested.


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## Blackadder

piemaster said:


> Good to see more progress on this puppy. What else do you have planned for her? Have you managed to put her next to a FW titan at all to see how your efforts look next to one. I don't imagine for one second that you would see any discrepancy between the two (yours seems to be more detailed than the FW one). I'm just interested.


I'd love to see how Lucie stacks up against a genuine FW production piece. I do believe Lucie is more robust in the legs and hips although her waist/gimbals spheres are about an 1/8 inch smaller in diameter. 

All the while I was building Lucie I keep getting the same critique, "The legs look too scrawny." Well judging by the photos I recently acquired Lucie could stomp a FW prod. model with her kick ass thunder thighs and not even work up a sweat.

There are many changes I made that are not readily apparent without a comparison model.

My hull is wider than the production model and the shield generators are wider and more streamline. The rear power couplings have an overhang above the to protect them from the elements and the upper rear hull fair into the generator housings. 

My carapace wings don't taper in towards the front and I omitted the upper plate joint fasteners. I also omitted a lot of the skulls and other such superfluous detail which I still may incorporate if I can find a source.

The side view of the carapace skirts are larger than in the original as well and finally Lucie is fully articulated so she can be posed in a virtually infinite number of positions to suit my whim. 

Overall size-wise I'm betting Lucie is pretty much in the ballpark with her average height 10.5 inches which is also her best posing height but full compressed she stand a shade under 9.5 inches and legs full extended she stands a ludicrous looking 11.5 inches tall.

I consider Lucie to be the Mark II version, 

Blackadder


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## Blackadder

Let me state that Lucie looks fantastic with her gen-u-wine FW accoutrements and I am forever in the debt of a generous contribution for one of my readers.

  
In natural light where the true colour of the carapace is evident. She's not at all as blue as the flash would indicate.

Lucie suffered some battle damage last month and broke a middle toe on her right foot. Repairing her was difficult as I still wanted the toe to function. I'm happy to report the repair went very well and Lucie is still ambulatory with nary a sign that the repair was made thanks to 'METALSET A4' Military Grade Epoxy Resin Cement. Lucie could not have been manufactured as she is without this stuff.

Blackadder


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## dirty-dog-

wow Black adder you have really done well on this, i am very impressed.

You definitly deserve a rep package.


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## Blackadder

dirty-dog- said:


> wow Black adder you have really done well on this, i am very impressed.
> 
> You definitely deserve a rep package.


Thanks for the reps I really appreciate receiving them although I have yet to find out what they are used for.

It seems my complaint to "Imagehost" has worked although they have not responded to my :angry:email. Imagehost.org which touts themselves as a family oriented image storing service, (i.e. no nsfw images,) had been been been displaying HC banner links and adult services with the images.:shok: I complained to their "Abuse Department"  and it appears they have cleaned up their act. If anyone sees unseemly adult links or banners accompanying my opened images please let me know and I will complain again.:threaten: The faux pas was probably the result of an over zealous or inattentive advertising department.

The Blackadder apologizes for Imagehost.org 's indiscretion.


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## aboytervigon

This idea is as cunning as a fox who just graduated top of his class at Oxford cunning university who then went on to become the leading expert on cunning.


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## Blackadder

aboytervigon said:


> This idea is as cunning as a fox who just graduated top of his class at Oxford cunning university who then went on to become the leading expert on cunning.


I'll put this in my, "Gee I wish I had said that." file.

Spoken like a true Blackadder-ophile,

EB


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## piemaster

rep to aboytrevigon for avatar and Blackadder-associated commentary.

Well, not much else to say really. My enthusiasm for this project is dotted about within these hallowed walls and it remains as eminent as ever.
*cough* Imperiator Titan *cough* next project *splutter*


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## Djinn24

Wow, I am impressed with th build that was amazing as hell. I am working on an old armotcast phantom and keep saying that I want to get it out and work on it. This maybe what I needed.


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## Blackadder

One might seek to address the causation of this explosive pulmonary exhalation 'Piemaster' especially when accompanied by the implied atomized sputter  

I hope you won't be too disappointed to learn that a 'Warlord Titan' on the order of the marvelous Dave Smith effort is my current attempted project for the new year.


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## Djinn24

I am so looking forward to it.


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## Grins1878

Blackadder said:


>


When people go on about shock and awe... I now have that feeling... 

Awesome man, I'mm be watching 

+ Rep


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## Blackadder

The Dave Smith Titan is the most realistic effort I have ever seen and one could almost believe it's place on a field of battle. Emperor Class Titans do not do it for me and the Warlord is about as big as I shall ever attempt. I should have some preliminary WIP images ready on a new thread in a week or so.

Thanks, for the interest,

E.B.


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## NerdyOgre254

I'd be happy with the Warlord - an Emperor is something you spend YEARS working on. It's like the Sistine Chapel.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel

Awesome! Great work! Amazing how cool the titans looks...and the price tag...INSANE, there is currently a WARLORD titan up on Ebay that selling for "starting bid" $2,000!


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## Blackadder

A Warlord break

Man I need a break the Warlord is wearing me out so this weekend I started the terrain of the Wahound base.

Naturally I'm doing things backasswards first I glued cork to the wood display base and now I have covered it with clay. This clay is "Sculpy" low temp fired clay that hardens in the oven at 275°F/130°C for 15 minutes.........any combustibles (Here's a thought, why isn't there metric time?)

Anyway I temporarily place some distorted Russ turrets and a Ryza barrel for effect just to stimulate some idea neurons because I want a scarred battlefield scenario. Perhaps a skeleton slumping out of the hatch. This is my first attempt at making a base for a model so I need some ideas.

Naturally there will be Warhound footprints and some small craters, weeds, rocks, and debris.

You hafta wonder how much heat it would take to melt a cannon barrel and warp a turret?

http://i.imgur.com/d2NXbNd.jpg








The terrain still need more moulding

http://i.imgur.com/iz5vUBB.jpg








There are too many wrecks, I know

http://i.imgur.com/X3G6OQ9.jpg








A closeup of the Ryza turret


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## Ddraig Cymry

Just, look at them! So beautiful, striding over the battlefield, crushing anything under it's massive foot. I'd love to use one of these someday, even if it's just once.


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## Blackadder

The Rehabilitation Of Lucie:

Lucie has had numerous minor injuries over the years and since I was asked for a few reference pictures compared to the new Reaver I decided it would serve to show it along side of Lucie.

Well the poor dear couldn't even stand when I took her down from the shelf.

http://i.imgur.com/WjGW3By.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/pjE5zjQ.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/jUMi6EZ.jpg










After a few hasty photos I set about disassembling the legs and waist.

http://i.imgur.com/7jm5bnT.jpg


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## Blackadder

The Rehabilitation Of Lucie 2

While I am repairing the waist it would be a good time to remove the velcro fasteners and install rare earth magnets in their stead.

http://i.imgur.com/M1VMrcSl.jpg









I enclose the magnet discs in capped styrene tubes to make them easily glued in place. I find the 0,25 MM thick cover does not interfere with the magnetic attraction very much at all and the magnets have less tendency to come loose than if just glued on with Super-glue.

http://i.imgur.com/Q6ekSdsl.jpg


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## Blackadder

Magnet Capsule:

I find these new rare earth magnets invaluable for making detachable components so that weapons, appendages, heads, what-have-you make your pieces more versatile on the battleboard. 

A few simple steps to make a magnet capsule

Below are the four components indicated by the red arrows needed to make a glue on magnetic capsule

Cut two squares from some scrap sheet styrene and cut a ring from an appropriate sized tubing.

http://i.imgur.com/OVPcW82.jpg









I use 0,25 MM styrene for the cover where the magnet will face the metal or other magnet and whatever thickness is needed for the back cover so that the two magnetic surfaces are just in contact.

Stack the four components and glue.

http://i.imgur.com/LHmJZ4k.jpg









Trim or file away the excess if necessary.

In the image below note the magnet capsules installed the red arrows indicating the large magnets just made and the green arrows much smaller magnet capsules used for very small fastenings and as in this case to maintain proper alignment of a larger object.

http://i.imgur.com/SUTtQP7.jpg


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## Blackadder

Reworking the toe and ankle joints:

I haven't had the toes and ankles apart since I finished up this model about four years ago but I did accomplish an emergency repair a few years back so the ankle ball and socket were frozen locked in the full back position.

This gave Lucie a settled back on her haunches look.

While I have the ankle apart I'd better check the security of the piston rod ends that flex when the ankle shifts front to back and allows the foot to twist in its socket.

http://i.imgur.com/v12gpc3.jpg









That feature has not be available for quite some time due to the inoperability of the socket joint and gave Lucie a pigeon toed appearance in her recent photos.

The leg assembly at the rear left of the photo below has the center toe unable to flex up and if memory serves that is the toe that broke off a few years ago. That toe will have to be reworked as well.

http://i.imgur.com/FTT1HtN.jpg









Everything is functional on the right foot now so it is ready to be reassembled with my little guy looking on for scale.

http://i.imgur.com/68cNULL.jpg









You lose perspective on how big these feet are until you see them off the leg and along side a scale human figure.


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## Blackadder

Left Foot Repair:

Reviving this thread serves two purposes other than demonstrating the rehabilitation of Lucie. 

Theres a lot of new forums I post on now that have not seen how Lucie was assembled originally and while I constantly refer to the model there are no visible representations of how she works.

There are also I'm sorry to say picture empty posts where the image storage website has gone belly up and all the images are gone.

Anyway here's how Lucie's toes are attached and now that I have the toe off I cannot see why it won't flex.......?

Everything seems okay.

http://i.imgur.com/CvrFk6z.jpg









While I have the leg disassembled its a good time to show the flexibility of the ankle I mentioned in the above post.

Lucie has fully functional spherical ankle joints just as in the real Warhound the FW model is taken from. Later I'll explain in depth how the cylinder and piston rod ends are produced if anyone is interested.

The red arrow points to the ankle flexed......

http://i.imgur.com/V5dOzqn.jpg









and extended...........
http://i.imgur.com/L1G9RCZ.jpg


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## Blackadder

Toe Pistons and Cylinders and Blackadder's Shame:

Each toe has three actuators; two at the base that extends and flexes the intermediate phalanges (Red arrows) and one actuator (Yellow arrows)that extends and flexes the distal phalanges (Blue arrows).

http://i.imgur.com/rpKDWDr.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/kMPSDmX.jpg









Now for the part I am ashamed of, after I completed the feet I found the side toes did not touch the ground when the foot was flexed and I excoriated FW for a flaw in their design. 

Well it turned out I was the one in error because the very savvy FW engineers did make allowances for the toes to swivel at their base; (Green Arrows) It was I who did not pick up on it.

I went back to correct the error but I would have had to make each toe less wide to accomplish the modification and it was there that I drew the line. But a note to anyone attempting to replicate these assemblies; be aware of my error and plan accordingly.


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## gen.ahab

That's pretty damn good, bro. Paint job is aces.


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## Jolnir

Read this whole thread, and all I can say is holy crapolla. That is definitely your baby, and it has come out phenomenal. The details are mind blowing. Great job.


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## Blackadder

Thanks for the replies,

Big Butted Woman:

While I feel ambitious I should add a bit more junk to Lucie's trunk. Right now Lucie's hull weighs about one and a half pounds (3/4 kilo) including about 8 ounces
of scrap lead. If I hollow out the rest of the generator housings I will have room for an additional 10 ounces of lead weight which would make Lucie more stable on her feet.

http://i.imgur.com/D53ZahA.jpg









I shouldn't need that much but there is room for it.

I was going to link Rob Bartlett's hilarious song parody rendering of the 'Big Butted Woman' but it may be too risqué for a SFW forum.


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## Jolnir

Fat-bottomed Girls by Queen would suffice.

Are you melting down the lead and moulding it to fit the recess or just cutting strips to fit? I've used a soldering iron and a wooden mould to make lead weights for pine cars in the past.


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## Blackadder

I'm just cutting the sheet lead and hammering it into the recess.....

A Poltergeist Named Dave:

Well here's the family portrait taken after a bit of an incident where Luteus toppled over on top of Lucie.

http://i.imgur.com/UT7Sm6z.jpg









I set up the Warlord and the Reaver last night on the battle board with the Cadian planning to take a group portrait this morning after I installed the counterweights in Lucie which worked very well incidentally. I added a quarter pound to the generator housings and for the first time in a couple of years Lucie can pose bending forward.

http://i.imgur.com/j997PgH.jpg









So why was the Warhound facing the wall in the first picture you may well ask?

I was setting up the camera when I heard a crash behind me; twelve pounds of Warlord styrene for no apparent reason crashed down upon Lucie flattening her down under it's mass. First thing I did was look for the cat but it was nowhere around. Then I surveyed the damage.

Lucie had all her breakaway armour displaced and the battle banner broke off for the twentieth time.

Some of the magnet attached armour fell off the Warlord and the prime was a wee bit scuffed but no significant damage to him as well that I could readily see

http://i.imgur.com/wOVNKHk.jpg









I set everything back up and snapped a few quick pictures before I realized Lucie was still facing the wall. 

I turned her around and finish photographing it was then I noticed the Laser cannons on the left shoulder of Luteus were knocked askew.so there we have it.

http://i.imgur.com/jkX5ykM.jpg









A poltergeist named Dave knocked the Warlord over after it had been standing for almost twelve hours. Here is a picture of Dave..............


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## Jacobite

Sorry to hear about the accident, that really sucks. It all loves as awesome as always though.


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## Blackadder

*A FW Warhound Titan:*

This is Going to be Some Fun;

I've done this so often I believe I could assemble this blindfolded.

When I was in the service I made a bet that I could assemble the trigger mechanism and the rest of a M14 rifle blindfolded. Halfway through the assembly I thought someone was playing a trick and pocketed the trigger return spring so I said where's the spring? Turns out it had fallen off the footlocker and no one noticed.

Now that the Warhound is primed I can't wait to start assembly but I have to resist the temptation to plunge right in I want to magnetize all removable components and screw assemble the feet and legs so the stance can be re-positioned.

http://i.imgur.com/3rpBZy9.jpg









and I have to do it three times; once for the Wolf and twice for the Chaos 'hounds.


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## Blackadder

Not Much of a Poser:

After all these years I'm finally getting around to putting Lucie on a pedestal ahem! er; well a display base and taking advantage of her flexibility I want as dynamic a pose as she is capable of so adjusting the legs to the extreme positions I tried out a photo.

http://i.imgur.com/p6Hmknb.jpg









I must say I'm not exactly overawed.

Even the advent of a Trygon seems little to recommend the position. 

http://i.imgur.com/f3r66vy.jpg









I'll try again tomorrow when I have more time.


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## Old Man78

Excellent as always, I wonder if forge world do a warlord will they do it to the same scaling as you or scale it down to a beefed up reaver? Again sir words fail, just bloody brilliant


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## Blackadder

Thanks, I've read that there is no Warlord proposed in FW's future which according to FW would take 18 months of R&D. My Warlord stands about 27 inches tall which dwarfs both the Warhound and Reaver. Chances are the FW Warlord would probably be about 22 to 24 inches tall if it were ever produced.

Ruins Base # One:

First layer of cork and some ruins bitz that need to be trimmed to fit the base and allow a passage for the Warhound.

http://i.imgur.com/ylZb4Ph.jpg









Front view needs terracing and the foundation of the ruin needs raising.


http://i.imgur.com/bLtrooF.jpg









Side view show the difficulty of multilevel terrain.

http://i.imgur.com/Sostu8A.jpg









Rear view of ruin shows the Gothic arches need to be trimmed to allow the foot to pass

http://i.imgur.com/Ulx2qZT.jpg









Ditto.

http://i.imgur.com/dpN0ltb.jpg









All the tread work is virtually unseen.... but at least I know it's there.

http://i.imgur.com/kRHXBBJ.jpg









Anyone know the kit name and or number of these ruins; I can't find the item on the GW website.


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## Blackadder

Thanks, I actually have two sets of these ruins but I was just curious about the source.

A Learning Experience:

The following images are more FYI than instructions on how to make a base/diorama because I have little idea where I am going with these bases.

http://i.imgur.com/d7oez3V.jpg









I'm sure people more savvy with base construction can find errors I am committing with my preliminary work but I have madness to my methods.

http://i.imgur.com/u2HNYUZ.jpg









One thing I note on some of the ruins I see planted on bases is they usually do not have foundations. Even my mentor Jaro didn't allow that the building does not just sit on the ground but has a basement dug into the earth/bedrock whathaveyou so the building is anchored.

http://i.imgur.com/5j7CfOZ.jpg









So to allow for this I made fine cork angled strips that will be coated with fine sand to simulate a concrete footing.

http://i.imgur.com/3ZnO9Fl.jpg









In this final photo I show the foot print recesses for the Warhound that probably will be partially filled with debris so the Warhound will also be situated in the display rather than just floating scale inches above the terrain.

http://i.imgur.com/UdNqLed.jpg









None of this is to be taken as gospel but is just as I perceive it should be.


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## Blackadder

RUINS:

A bit of an experiment here; I spent the better part of an hour making an octagonal ruin tower and felt there had to be an easier way. Fortunately I just had an oak workbench delivered that came with the usual environmentally unfriendly foam packing. Sheets upon sheets of 1/2 inch styrene foam that will outlast any of us by millennia.

Taking my utility knife with a pristine new blade; in a couple of seconds I had duplicated the labor intense tower facets with apropos distressed fractures complimentary to the cutting.

A couple more minutes gluing the foam to the base and below are the results. Note the white glue isn't even dried.

http://i.imgur.com/xO9IkJB.jpg










http://i.imgur.com/4RWNpDu.jpg










http://i.imgur.com/h1yogMR.jpg









Now obviously there is a downside to this simple procedure otherwise greater brains than I possess would have suggested it but until I hit this snag I'll proceed like Pollyanna.


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## Blackadder

Organized Entropy:

Who would have thought it would be so hard to create disorder; try as I might everything still looks too orderly. I have to thank Winterdyne for the idea to chop up sprues for beams and bricks but I need to go a few steps further to blur the sharp edges as the clean lines stand out too vividly;especially in image three.

http://i.imgur.com/8UMXnBb.jpg









The tree is a clean dried root from a weed I had growing on my patio and the major buttress components are sculpted packing foam (See above)

http://i.imgur.com/wpSeQdo.jpg









Believe it or not the black prime is direct from a toluene based aerosol paint spray can applied directly on the naked foam (Ha; he said, "Naked....") lightly for the first and second coat to stabilize the surface so the final coats do not dissolve the styrene foam.

http://i.imgur.com/o1sYq6Q.jpg


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## Moriouce

Looks great and love the tree! I have seen wonders being made out of roots. They are simply a miniture image of the tree above. I have seen whole woods made that way and it looks fantastic and easy to play within.


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## Blackadder

When last we visited I was building a base for Lucie so as to display her on a shelf without toppling. But wire coat hangers are too flexible for a model of her weight so searched for a more durable rod of similar diameter. I have just found such a rod in of all places an electioneering poster support frame. These frames must withstand high winds at times so the rod is super stiff for it's diameter.

http://i.imgur.com/4wj9vZQ.jpg









So Lucie now stands somewhat erect on a custom base that still requires further painting.

http://i.imgur.com/S8ETKGh.jpg









Soon to be displayed in my curio cabinet.

http://i.imgur.com/afIAdIU.jpg


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