# Cryostasis Kit



## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi everyone,
Thought this project by now deserves its own thread.
So here it is again fora little recap, then we'll move onto the components.

















These were the *sides*, but they got redesigned.








New *Sides *for *Upper block*









*Back plate (front)* The original design was a completely smooth back - No longer!








*Back plate (back)* - purely designed for added value. This side gets glued to the Upper block and won't be seen. 








*Bracket guide, 'the Plane'* - Purely designed to help people guide the brackets onto the back plate. However it doesn't quite fit. You could use the lines on the backplate to guide the brackets instead of using the *plane*. I might redo a while new one.
















*Brackets *- These little bastids also had to be redesigned.








*Brackets *- old & new comparison








*Brackets *attached (new)








The *Hatch* - another pita piece. However radical improvement on previous design.








Assembled *backplate* with *hatch*








Example of how *backplate *goes on *Upper block* - Resting on *backplate*








Here's the *Upper block* layed out








This is how the underside of the *Upper block* is arranged
















Here's the *Lower block* layed out
















This is how I was originally intending to do the *Upper block* for customers (2xsmall block, 1x plate). But I figured that would be hassle for people, so it become the one block you see now. 








Here's the original which has now been drilled. It's going in for moulding yet again and yet another new block will emerge (but with a hole predilled)!









Crikey, hope that made sense! I need to count how many bits there are, but it's not bad for my first production kit!
I just hope folks don't have a hard time putting it together.
Woodles,
-ElDusto :gamer1:


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## bitsandkits (Mar 18, 2008)

looks amazing matey well done


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## Varakir (Sep 2, 2009)

That's awesome, will it hold liquid?


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Yup




I've got a tube with dice - but I've discovered dice just float striaght down (absolutely no tumble). So maybe if a skull is inside with the dice, maybe it'll collide better (yet to try). Oh btw, liquid tends to magnify objects, you get the rounded bluging look, pretty cool!
This Mk2 version not only has been jazzed up and moulded several times, but hopefully the Hatch feature will also allow the tube to be swappable! It could become a brush stand lol.


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## Dave T Hobbit (Dec 3, 2009)

Very impressive.


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## Hammer49 (Feb 12, 2011)

Looks excellent.


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi all,
Many thanks 
This is how that alternative front bit goes in. Stick it at an angle (putty can help fill the void space).








Alignment issue with the plane piece. It fits, it's just that it's slightly sits left of center. 








The tube end cap pieces need to be drilled out to allow tube to pass through.








Once both the end caps are in place, the rod holes need drilling. Drilling the upper block more will make it easier putting that section on top of all 4 rods easier.








Mark up 2 parallel lines on the front of the upper block. This needs cutting out (this is just to add some extra detail). 








These are the 4 rods which have the nut clamp type things (orange bits) loosely on.








The following sequence shows how to get the rods in and then nut-clamp them in place. Just do the lower block only for the time being until the upper block is finished being assembled.








How to stick on the lower block's side bits.








This bit is where I found things didn't line up. Take the tube, turn it upsidedown and pass it through the bottom of the upper block. Then rest the hatch on top of it. Now lower the tube with the hatch back through the upper block whilst centering it between the brackets until the hatch sits on top of the upper block (as intended). Now if things were line up, you'd be able to dill through the bracket holes and into the hatch. In the pics, you'll see I've had to move the holes in the brackets to make it work.








The actual Tube itself. Inside this particular tube is a spine from Mantic Games and one of my skulls. The top has a handle so it can be pulled from the cryostasis stand.
















Yeh, so a Mk3 is on the go. Lower block being jazzed and issues being addressed.


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## bitsandkits (Mar 18, 2008)

was wondering if you were gonna do a larger "bank" of the tanks? like three in a row, but with a combined base and top sections or maybe in a triangle/hexagon foot print, also you know what else goes with stasis tanks? examination tables. i do love this model.


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## The Wraithlord (Jan 1, 2007)

Very cool as always Dusty.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Start
selling
them
damn
it
!!!


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## arumichic (May 14, 2011)

A small version of this could be made for wicked geeky earrings!!! Hahaha...
Really cool idea though.


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## Masked Jackal (Dec 16, 2009)

Very very nice! I'd definitely buy one of these things, if they were for sale. o.o


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Dusty is locking down the details of these. Not sure if he is planning on hand making all of them or will eventually mass produce them.


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Howdy,
Wowsers, didn't realise there were quite a few replies  cheers & apologies for delay.

Aye I do intend on selling this as a kit hopefully with a tube. Tubes will also be available seperately. 
I've sent a couple of kits to people and it's proving to be a daring build. So the, ease-of-assembly is something I'm taking into consideration whilst developing the Mk3. If people want it prebuilt, I can do that, but a kit would ideally be better as it gives people opportunity for conversions.

I like the earring suggestion , necklaces would work too!

Sorry no pics this time. I've been a bit caught up in paperwork lately and some painting - tis all however for the greater good 
Woodles,
Dusty


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## Fallen (Oct 7, 2008)

*bump* MOAR PICTURES!


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## falcoso (Apr 7, 2012)

Aggreed, they would be great in diorama or for a necron tomb thing... OMG HAVE THEM FILLED WITH THE DAMAGED CRONS FROM THE GHOST ARK KIT!!! But yes that is very very cool and i would buy if you sold, I'm assuming that is plasticard?


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Howdy,

Lots going on...
Working now on the Mk3 design with a more precise approach. I've gone a bit overboard and I had to upgrade my tools big time. Loads of material has been cut up to give me backups and spares and additional pieces incase I want to make additional stuff. It's all being systematically cut to ensure everythin tally ups correctly.

The reason why I can't just go with mark 1
After speaking to some people, it was suggested that I should roll out with the Mk 1 design whilst developing the current design. That would be a logical step; however it is not as simple as that.
- There are fundamental problems with the bracket for the hatch and the "Plane" piece which supports the brackets.
- Too much assembly involved. Components aren't interlocking, resulting in more effort to stick things squarely.
- Prebuilt would make painting a little difficult.
- Moulds weren't the best, and 1 original piece has become unglued.
- Generally speaking to roll out Mk1's would be just as much effort and if not more annoying to assemble than creating a Mk3 which goes together without as much drama. So in some ways, not only is it meant to solve some problems and look better, but it's also suppose to make my life easier, yah suppose ta lol!

Here's a peek at what's going on. 










Chunky new upper block sides.
















Lower block with new side inserts









Bits for the back of the lower block
















It's critical that the lower block, cradle and upper block all line up with each other. So very pleasing for me to see this.









Looking at the previous designs, I couldn't help noticing that it was very "panely". Apart from the upper and lower block, everything was thin panels stuck on the sides which didn't really give the impression of a high tech device. So less panelling and more chunkier blocks to be a bit more realistic. By cutting things systematically, parts can be paired or mirrored instead of using 2 cast pieces for each side. Machining is a good practice. Mark up test material, test cut, use calipers to check, make adjustments, do again. Always cut additional spares/backups.
The production process also makes the design juices flow and it allows you to tweak it on the fly. That's an advantage over 3Dprinting; you can make further adjustments without reprinting. You get a truer look and feel as the piece is being made and ultimately more in-touch with the workpiece. Don't get me wrong, I would love to get this 3D printed, but the point I'm trying to make is that; I don't believe 3D printing could ever really replace the skills of a craftsman. It should be considered as just another tool to add to the arsenal. Without a creative mind, a 3D printer would be like using a light saber as a glow stick.
I design on computer, but each part is being marked out on the material with a sharpen pencil and ruler (normally I would stick the print out onto the material). If tweaks are made, they're drawn on top of the print out, then drawn up on computer if approved.

I know it's madness and it is driving me to breaking point, but I'm determined to make this thing badass. There's still miles to go and no where near moulding/casting yet. I might (probably should) have to upgrade my mould/cast setup as well when the time comes closer.... my head hurts.

There's more pics and info <here>


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## Azkaellon (Jun 23, 2009)

Hmm these would be fun to keep captured enemy models in for a guard diorama......


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

I'm glad hear people are thinking about what could go inside. I should emphasize that the inside diameter of the glass tube is only 9mm. However I have been messing around with the plinths and turning them into sorta Cryo-plinths (not quite as hightech as this one, but larger things could go inside).

Anyway onto pics...
We're cutting an angle into the sides for the lowerblock. A scrap backup was used to test cut first, then we could do the real thing. One of the side inserts were put in to help keep the sides together as 1 block with bits of blu-tac to help.








Here, we're marking up the lower side pieces with where the next cuts will go. This cut will end up dictating where the back piece will line up and thus where the lower block will actually sit in relation to the sides (it butts up against the back piece).









Loads more work to do, it's slow progress but 1 or 2 major fuk ups and it'll be ruined, and then I'd cry. So lots of thinking and making sure I get things done in a sensible order. Also a lot of reviewing is required to help keep track and check how things line up. I'm trying not to allow any chance of mistakes by making sure things are rigged up in such a way, nothing can slip and can only pass through as intended (It's also much safer and less risk). It's a bit like chess, and I'm going for a checkmate hopefully. 
...the battle continues!


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi guys,

I’ve been knuckling down and pushing for progress (and it makes better pics).
I’ve made some silly mistakes, using up pieces unnecessarily. Some fuk-ups have happened, but it’s being manage to be kept under control. For instance if a cut is too deep, it is filled with Milliput and then re-passed through the machine (it does mean everything is on hold until the correction is made – no adjusting machines).
These days I’m trying to incorporate tips in my wip’s, helps me explain what I’m doing.

In the Pics...
Lots of free styling and hacking away. Parts have become much more delicate than I anticipated, but part of it is about pushing the limits.










Looking at the beast, I realised I should of made the back piece a little longer. And also that maybe there should be a more physical way for the lower block to join to the upper block, they are after all part of the same machine. It would make sense for it to be able to connect/communicate with the other half and not through just 4 support rods. I’m working on some ideas.
The lower block insert protrude out quite a bit, I’ll probably slice them down a bit. But hopefully you get a sense of just how much more chucky this is compared to the previous design (pink resin piece to the side).
Lower block sides have finally had stuff done to the back. I've also incorporated some channelling out the back to allow for any wiring or pipes.



















Urg...coffee....:wacko:


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Ok,
I’ve been focusing mainly on the lower block trying to complete its parts. The upper block has a few things holding up the progress. The cradle is yet to be assembled and the hatch is gonna be a headache. We’ll cross that bridge when we get there but first I want to get the foundations secure before building up.

These either side are the inserts for the lower block which have been taken down a bit and at the same time given tabs to fit the piece in between. It’s being a little extraand risky, but it makes it better.That middle piece goes under the lower block as another layer, it'll be stuck so that it's one piece and stops the tube from falling through. 









These are new bits to fit inside the inserts. It's got a bit of channelling for thin cables/pipes. I didn't particularly want to make it even wider but I liked the look. Perhaps at some point I'll do a more flush design and also some trunking to connect blocks in series.









This is where I nearly had a meltdown. I nearly sliced my finger so I let go of the side insert pieces while it was going through the saw. Scared the heck outta me. The pieces got a bit damaged. I've spent a few days just trying to correct it.
Maybe now would be a good time to mention a bit about Safety; Always be in easy reach and ready to switch off tools in an instant.










On the whole though, it's really taking form and some pieces are pretty much done being shaped. Looking forward to getting onto some other projects once this is done.
Oki I had to have some fun before I go totally coo coo, but it did make me realize something;










If all else fails, it's good to know there's another use for it!

:russianroulette:


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

:headbutt:

Ok, 
Started to work on the brackets a bit. I've marked out in pen what I'm planning to do.









Trying this piece out to replace the cradle. It's the only one I got so I've only got one shot at this unless I resetup the drill and go through the hassle of drilling again. It's had the corners drilled for the support rods. If successful, it will make the smaller side bits no longer needed (it won't really be a cradle anymore either). In order to rise the upper block as intended by the cradle, I could put a strip along the bottom edge of the upper block instead. There are a few different ways I could go about doing some things. I need to decide on a way and go with it. You might have noticed by now that things aren't going quite to plan anymore.


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

...kinda lost track where we left off...
That replacement cradle piece came out ok, phew.









The brackets got out of hand too quickly trying to plough through them. There's a thin plate that really I should have worked on first before doing the brackets (which fit over it). I had in mind to split the brackets once they were ready. This would allow them to be mounted one side at a time thus keeping the drill bit and pin straight. The issue of getting the hatch to line up perfectly is still problematic. It’s used up yet more stock but at least it’s given me some ideas on how to design/rearrange bits.

















I eventually thought of a possible solution which would make a few things a lot easier. I'm thinking about playing an illusion! Instead of a hatch that flips open, there will be just a hole and the top of the tube will protrude appearing with hatch-like features, such as a handle. It would mean the brackets no longer need to support a hatch and removes the issue of the hatch having to line up perfectly.

The brass pipe is a tight fit for the glass tube. The end of the tube also bows out ever so slightly causing yet more problems. The end of the glass tube needs to be sanded down a bit being careful not to scuff up the glass too much or scratch it.

Mould and cast is being tested as the stock has been sitting for quite some time. Despite being in a crappy loft, the goop looks good. 

I started to mould the lower block. I weren’t sure if it would work, but to my surprise, pretty good success. There are a few things I need to now work out. A couple of the tight slots caught airbubbles in them which isn’t so good. If I had a vacuum chamber, it might help otherwise I’m thinking of cutting the slots wider (or making new pieces yet again).I was surprised the brass pipe managed to cast. It’s very thin. I couldn’t find the same tube I used in the very original model which was a little thicker. 

I’ve glued some the pieces together to make assembly quick and easy. It means less components but it also means less hassle cleaning mould lines and gluing all the bits together afterwards. I'll have to remould the new sections when ready or I could outsource mould/cast if I can find someone.


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

*Update time *
Here's the lower block layout. Do you think there are too many pieces to put together? I like having components but I understand fewer pieces are easier to handle. I just wonder how easily this will be for people to put together.









Quite a bit of drilling to get the LED in and to do the smaller spot light holes. I'll have to remachine a new piece so that it can plug into the lower block. You'll see in the wiring pic how it was fudged in place.









The bank of tubes.









How to wire it up. Here it comes out the back, but it could go out the sides if you wanted (such as with the bank of tubes). Ideally I should have left a thin dividing wall to prevent the wires shorting out with each other. But some heat shrinkings can help (longer pieces than what I put on).









Now at this stage I can begin to see how the design fits together properly. Putting these pieces together was much easier and quicker than the previous Cryostasis designs. However it's back to the drawing board to incorporate the new tweaks and to work out the upper block some more. Another battle on the horizon rallies.


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## falcoso (Apr 7, 2012)

Liking the new 3 tube design, especiall the LED in the tubes. I don't think too many bits is a problem as long as there are clear instruction, if it can be simplified though, then I would


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Yeh a tutorial will be done but not sure how simple I can make it (I can offer it prebuilt or comissioned). The chunkiness of the design makes it much easier to assemble now whereas before thin panels needed to be stuck along its thin edge. The new pieces fit in place a lot easier so things like lining them up doesn't become so fiddley. I've put in things which slot in together etc and machined parts in pairs etc to ensure its easier for people to assemble. Its been designed from the very beginning with the community in mind and has been shaped with people giving feedback. So I hope along with the tutorial (Instruction booklet) and perhaps some videos, putting the whole thing together won't be too difficult.

Thanks for feedback, always helps


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

I have update - woohoo!
Mainly focusing on the upper block, lots of headaches and wondering what to do...

I decided to incorporate the cradle into the upper block. The sides also had to be slotted out so that they can fit onto the cradle.


The brass pipe has been cut and glued in place. 


Snugly fits, not even using glue to hold any of it on (Dry-fitting). 


The bracket is made from 2 pieces and the next few pics show how you can use magnets to help align and stick things in place. 



Sorting out the alignment issue with the hatch has troubled me for a long time. Then one day, it hit me, drill a big hole!

The idea here is to drill a large hole so that a needle can be suspended freely within it. The next step is to prop up the needle so that it's level and centred where you want. This is where you get jiggy jiggy with spacers and magnets etc. Then when you're happy, shove some Milliput to fill the gap up. Once cured set, give the needle a twist to break the grip on it and pull it out. Finally sand the Milliput flat. The hole should now in theory be straight through the middle. Yee-ha!



The bracket also gets large holes drilled through. It's then taped in place onto the upperblock, it kinda hooks over it. The hatch is then dropped in and the needle inserted. The hatch is then aligned over the main hole in the upperblock, then that too is taped down. Then Milliput is shoved in the gap again around the needle.


Once cured set, the tape that's holding the hatch is removed and a check can be made. As the hatch opens, you can check the alignment by the way it feels. You can usually tell is there's a slight twist or if something is not quite right.


Once checks are done and it's looking like it just might work, the hatch is removed and the needle replaced so that the inside of the bracket can be filled. Once cured, it's sanded flat and everything should now be aligned.

So that's a little tip/tutorial on hinging things!

I was never keen on making a handle for the hatch. I thought I could short cut it with a staple - but that's just lame and included a staple in the kit is stupid. So I managed to machine this tiny piece. The hand hole had to be filled to make moulding easier, however it can be cut away once it's casted. 


The lower block
I stuck the top piece to the lower block to reduce components but I wish I kept them as separate pieces now. So I added some fins in case airbubbles get caught in the slots. The block has also had a larger hole drilled in the bottom for the new core to plug into (forgot to pic that).


I had to machine a new version of this bit just so that things continue to tally up. It was quite annoying to do and took a few attempts. I had to create some tools. I've also had to fix (reposition) one of the pilot hole for the support rods.



So, the upper block is at a stage where it's ready for moulding. Then we get to see how well it all goes together.
:alcoholic:


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## neferhet (Oct 24, 2012)

Amazing! Some years of work...are you still sane?? :biggrin:


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Thanks neferhet, yeh I'm still sane - dunno how though, surprised I haven't cut a finger off yet.

Casts here we go. Not the best moulds, airbubbles still cause jip. But I'm still pretty chuffed with it. It goes together better than I could have imagined and its good to see finally the overall look. It doesn't require 'fudging' into place which is probably the best asset. Mould lines are kept minimal. The hatch and bracket work great and digging away at the handle easy.





It's been added to the current mould set for the lower base.



Space marine for an idea on scale. Inside the tube is a Eldar pilot torso which have been trimmed a little to fit.



Here's a comparison between the different designs for the upper section.



Bugs and problems and now be looked at and then hopefully a final set of moulds made. I decided to up the detailing some more seeing how another mould set will be made. Sometimes I guess I just don't know when to stop.
:read:


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## Dusty's Corner (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi everybody,
Exciting news - it's finished! I'm currently casting away and building preassembled kits.







Completed for 2014 - Cryostasis Released!!

You can display whatever you like provided it fits inside the tube. These are now available premade (unpainted). Made especially by myself, it comes with a glass tube, core, a couple of feet type bits and a female torso. *All for an introductory offer of £50 (£60 in Feb).*


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

That looks pretty awesome man! The work definitely paid off.


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