# Cockroach Coloured Tyranids, a Blackadder WIP



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tyranid Cockroaches, Ewhhhhhh!

Well here I am laid up with a immobile shoulder and my right arm in a sling and I tell you I am getting stir crazy. Books, TV, Internet surfing, No porn; right arm remember............. 

Anyway visiting my 40K forums I stumble across this fantastic rendering of a Tyranid army by a certain 'DeadMuppet' his sobriquet. He has produced the most realistic Tyranids I have ever seen. 

Basing his colouration on cockroaches he has produced the most intriguingly disgusting arthropods I have yet seen so I have set out to duplicate his technique. 

From what I have seen on his thread he starts out with a light gray primer, I have gray primer, followed by a khaki base coat. I still can press a spray can button so here goes..............

http://i.imgur.com/9IiFe5m.jpg









I'm starting with the only Tyranid in my possession; a Hive Tyrant recently purchased. 

I have very limited experience with painting so this thread will be basically a trial and error excursion into the do's and don'ts of colourization. 

It should prove fun..............


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

Blackadder said:


> No porn; right arm; remember.............


Hehehe 

I've seen the models you're talking about, and I agree that they're pretty fantastic. Will you be trying something similar or will you be changing it somehow? Painting shouldn't be too hard, just remember on larger surfaces to get enough paint onto it in a short amount of time or else it may look blotching, of course that might not be a problem with Tyranids, as the biggest things I've painted have only been Leman Russes.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Yeah well I guess since 'Seinfeld' could devote entire episodes on American TV to the subject I might just get away with a bit of innuendo.........

My plan is to build an entire 'Nid army including a 'Nid Titan on the order of magnitude of a Warlord. Until such time as I can actually cut plastic again I have to amuse myself painting small objects. Actually I am exceeding my Therapist's prohibition even lifting something as heavy as a spray can.

The problem with the 40K Universe is that the hardware and vehicles is pretty much Terran biased with any large opponents from other armies left in Limbo. I would truly love to work on a half meter tall 'Nid Titan Biped on the order of Giger's 'Alien' I even have the joint hinges in mind and in fact but that is in the distant future. Right now I'm just playing with paint techniques.


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

Blackadder said:


> My plan is to build an entire 'Nid army including a 'Nid Titan on the order of magnitude of a Warlord. Until such time as I can actually cut plastic again I have to amuse myself painting small objects. Actually I am exceeding my Therapist's prohibition even lifting something as heavy as a spray can.
> 
> The problem with the 40K Universe is that the hardware and vehicles is pretty much Terran biased with any large opponents from other armies left in Limbo. I would truly love to work on a half meter tall 'Nid Titan Biped on the order of Giger's 'Alien' I even have the joint hinges in mind and in fact but that is in the distant future. Right now I'm just playing with paint techniques.


Well I look forward to the results, and I'm happy to hear you're healing well.


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

Have you a link to this DeadMuppet's work so we can see have a look at the effect you are trying for?


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

Unless I'm mistaken, this is his work


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

They are very impressive, but I've seen cockroaches on 4 continents, and I've never seen any that colour. I was expecting some sort of glossy black oily effect.


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

Khorne's Fist said:


> I was expecting some sort of glossy black oily effect.


Agree with this one. The models do look astoundingly good though!


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## morfangdakka (Dec 31, 2006)

Khorne's Fist said:


> I was expecting some sort of glossy black oily effect.


I have never seen cockroaches like that either even though they are nicely painted.


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## iamtheeviltwin (Nov 12, 2012)

This is probably the look he was going for:










(Photo Credit: Gary Alpert used under CC BY-SA 3.0)

I did expect them to be "glossier", but the color is comparable to lighter colored cockroaches.

I think these are more what most of you were thinking of:


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

iamtheeviltwin said:


> I think these are more what most of you were thinking of:


Yup, that's the one I was thinking of.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Hey Blackadder, if you haven't seen it, I'd recommend reading through 

Kuriojichan's Tyranid Swarm WIP  by @kuriojichan here on heresy. His are my favorite tyranids I think. He really did go out of his way to use glass finishes and patterning to try and capture the look of a space-arthropod.

Example:













Those linked images are nicely done but they done read to me as cockroaches, they look more fleshy/bony. I'm honestly not crazy about the color choices, but I think the painting is pretty awesome, the blending is really soft and subtle.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the link it's given me a few pointers athough the blue weapons and talons (etc) are a bit of a turn off. One bit of interest is the gloss varnish which I also intended to employ. Thankfully he did the experiment for me so i won't have to compromise a paint finished model. The gloss varnish looks to me too artificial so I shall try a satin varnish finish. I also might try a shellac finish which is the definitive organic gloss coming as it does from the shell-like tunnels of the Lac beetle.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac


Tyranid Basic Paint:

I know I am circumventing conventional wisdom with my painting and am taking too many steps to accomplish that which pro-painters can do with ease. Never let it be said that the Blackadder takes the easy path when the harder is available.

After a coat of gray primer and a coat of cardboard box cover coat (The only tan paint I had) I masked off the areas not needing further base painting and sprayed the chitin carapace areas with a coat of rust brown primer.

http://i.imgur.com/kbwY47Q.jpg









After drying removing the tape reveals I missed a bit of leg chitin. Never mind I can touch that up with a brush.

http://i.imgur.com/6ZwE9Jc.jpg









Well these photos came out disappointing; the flash kind of washed out the dark brown primer. The actual colour is more the cheesy simulated leather wood grain table pad hue in the photo.

I've gone about as far as I can go with spray cans, time to break out the airbrush.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tyranid Base Coat Part Two:

Removing the masking revealed an acceptable contrast.

http://i.imgur.com/ZKmX73Y.jpg









The flash show the paint as more red than it is but hey the entire base coat will be covered anyway, this will just give a depth to the final coat.

http://i.imgur.com/4ZDiQRm.jpg









The rust undercoat will (I hope) supply a subliminal ruddy glow to the burnt umber carapace surface pigment. 

http://i.imgur.com/FUNmWNF.jpg









Now for the airbrushing:


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

I really like that. I might have to try that technique when I paint some of my vehicles. Good work.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Blackadder Straddling Two Concepts

Originally there was only the one master plan for organic appearing cockroach coloured Tyranids.

Since posting this thread I have be made aware of more. They seem to be multiplying like..........well like cockroaches.

I have narrowed the field to two and will attempt to fashion mine somewhere between them as the first was too light and the last seems a bit too dark.

I am listing the colours I have just ordered for a delivery later this week. I chose Vallejo paints instead of Citadel for no particular reason as I do have a conversion chart from one manufacturer to another which may prove useful to those with a goodly supply of alternative manufacturers paints:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

The colours I shall be using are as follows:

71024 Khaki Brown
71027 Light Brown
71040 Burnt Umber
71042 Camo Black Brown
71083 Orange
71109 UK Pru Blue
72014 Warlord Purple
72034 Bone White
72050 Cold Gray
72066 Tan
73200 Sepia Wash

And Citadel 21-27 Rakarth Flesh

I bought these paints on Amazon from a third party distributor 'SIFI Comics and Games' who seemed to have the best price and one price shipping regardless of the number of small items ordered which seemed a bargain. This information for any of you that may wish at your peril to follow along on this painting odyssey. I should be receiving my stuff with in the week.... 

Back to the competing variations on the cockroach theme, Deadmuppet's beautiful work is slightly spoiled by the use of a brush to paint the highlights on the edge of the chitin armour; I intend to use an airbrush throughout even for the highlights using glue tac for the masking. 

Another contender used gloss varnish for the carapace which gave a too shiny appearance. I shall be using a satin varnish.

Of course these projects are done and mine are just a figment of my imagination with little hard evidence of my imagined abilities so before I get too deeply into critical analysis perhaps I should actually do something. Ha! 

Oh BTW if you intend to follow along you may want to have at least a medium sized Tyranid and an airbrush with a fine tip. Ha!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tyranid Spoiler Alert:

Okay well we've seen my pitiful opening attempt at a cockroach colours army basecoat and the requisite colours are ordered. I have stated my goals regarding plans for a 'Nid army and a Pollyanna speculation on a future Bio Titan so now let's see the immediate painting goals I have set for myself. The way I look at it the small muscle controls needed for airbrushing will help retrain my fine motor skills lost during the current incapacity. 

I have state on a few forums I eschew the party coloured 'carousel pony' painted Tyranids for something realistic looking and have set my sights rather high regarding the painting quality of the pieces so pictured below is a sample of what I hope to achieve. How close I come to that goal is what this thread is all about.
































































Good luck on that one Blackadder, yer gonna need it! Ha!


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

Shoot for the stars and hit the moon, that's better than to shoot for the moon and hit a stump haha


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

In reference to the above post, it looks like I'm more likely to shoot myself in the foot!

Today I received my paint and tried out my new dual action air brush. My old cheap 'Badger' I felt wasn't up to the current challenge.

Damnme if I can get any paint through the dimned thing so I played around with the settings and the air pressure and disassembled the needle valve assembly to no avail finally in desperation I took the needle out of the thing and huge amounts of paint sprayed through. I had the needle set for paint with a mineral spirit base instead of water Ha!

Blackadder, do you really think you are qualified to pursue a project of this caliber if you can't even adjust the spray nozzle?


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## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

Judging by your previous efforts in the hobby? Yes more so than most!


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

keep at it dude. just keep at it. at the end of the day these are just paints and mat and little bitty plastic things shaped like other things. they can be conquered!

on a sidenote, man that cockroach scheme is haunting. I would never want to see the actual model for fear I might step on it on impulse. easily top 3 Nid schemes Ive ever seen, and I've seen...well only like 20 but still awesome.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Okay so now my acquiring of Tyranid 'Heavy Metal' armour components is relatively complete (albeit still in the kit boxes) With the last night acquisition of a 'Trygon' NIB model I now have that and a Carnifex NIB both of which are in transit; an in house Tyrannafex/Tervigon in the process of being primed and having the arms/armament being magnetically attached (not glued) by installing rare earth magnets (1/8 X 1/16 inch dia. still in transit), a very heavy Hive Tyrant (metal) I won't make that mistake again and a 10 piece Gargoyle set NIB. 

That should be enough for the time being seeing as how I have yet to paint a single piece. 

So well you may ask that given I have 3 Lucius Titans, More IG Super-heavy Resin tanks than I can count without taking my shoes off and an odd assortment of IG scout bipeds what is my current fascination with a Xeno/Bio army?

In truth I do not know, the spirit just moved me in that direction. I do know this; I have a hankering to do a scratch bipedal Bio-Titan on the order of size analogous to my Warlord. To do that I need good hands on representatives of the Tyranids genera. What better way to acquaint myself with the literally in's and out's of the anatomy than to study some actual Tyranids. 

And there you have it, a method and a rational to my personal form of dementia.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Trannofex/Tervigon Painting

Since I haven't received my Trygon as yet I'll practice my dubious skills on the Trannofex. Yesterday I primed the model with generic spray paint and a bit later applied a thin coat of flat white also generic (Walmart if you must know) but at $0.99 cents a can who's complaining.

After allowing to dry overnight it should be ready for acrylic airbrushing but first a few pictures of my initial foray into dual action airbrushing.

http://i.imgur.com/e5DkdLA.jpg









'BuyPainted' (I wish I knew this guy's name) says in his video he uses light gray prime but in the video it looks almost white.

http://i.imgur.com/jCZNpVC.jpg









I personally think the belly colours will be more vivid if applied to a flat white sub-coat. We'll see..............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Trannofex/Tervigon Painting 2:

Well that didn't take long compared to yesterday Under the fluorescent lighting the khaki colour seems a bit greenish I hope that won't affect the final result as it is just a base coat. 

http://i.imgur.com/dgIAeeQ.jpg









This image looks like an arthropod with a kick stand.

http://i.imgur.com/UXePehJ.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Trannofex/Tervigon Painting 3:

There's an old maxim stating, "It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools." but the qualifier is, "It's an equally poor craftsman that doesn't realize his tool's limitations."

This airbrush has limited range regarding how fine a line can be sprayed. While it is perfectly adequate for much of the work that needs to be done fine lines of less that 3 MM width are beyond its capabilities. 

The bottom line is I need a finer airbrush. Any suggestions as to what brush and dia. tip I should need?

The two images below did not come out too badly but it shouldn't be that hard to render a finer detail line. its like playing the piano with boxing gloves on.

http://i.imgur.com/e5Vy6lH.jpg










http://i.imgur.com/VAgsRqp.jpg









Otherwise I'm rather pleased with this for a first effort..........


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

Blackadder said:


> Otherwise I'm rather pleased with this for a first effort..........


You should be, that's quite nice. Very smooth and even from what I can see.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Hive Tyrant continues:

The best thing about the Metal Hive Tyrant is that being metal it's great to practice on. If I make a big mistake I can just soak it in Simple green overnight and wash the paint off in the dishwasher.

So far no real mistakes but I lack the finesse of a Pro-Painter that and I'm more comfortable with my single action Badger siphon brush

I learned a few tricks on how to isolate areas already painted from overspray, the best being Tack Putty. The only stuff I have lying about was 3M Adheasive Putty but I understand Blue Tack is better.

Anyway I'm prepared to highlight the rib cage and tail so I have the carapace masked off. 

http://i.imgur.com/pCZrxF0.jpg









In the back ground you see the Tervigon/Tyrannofex which awaits todays trial and my makeshift paint booth set up.

http://i.imgur.com/gSoeNvk.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/3aOQF24.jpg









This is all a new experience for me because other than the Warhound Lucie I not had any experience painting figures with an airbrush.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tervigon/Tyrannofex Paint Odyssey Continues:

As promised an update of today's earlier post.

Screwup repaired there are still errors that need attention but hey you really can't make a mistake with Biological Organisms (my asymmetrically patterned cat for example) anyway its time to explain that the current coat is Vallejo Light Brown over Khaki Brown with Umbral Umber ('Formula mfg' as the dark colour) on the carapace.

As usual I find working on larger models easier than small models so the Hive Tyrant actually took more time and effort that the Tyrannofex.

I've found that with very little effort I have graduated from not even able to get any paint through the airbrush to defining a 1/16 inch stream of paint virtually anywhere on a model. Where was airbrushing (Body Painting) on the menu when I had my 'Career chip Installed? 

Anyway after mebbe half an hour of total airbrushing hands on time I managed this: (If I can, anyone can)

http://i.imgur.com/QVe51nt.jpg









Look, Compressor industrial quality with 3 gallon tank $50 bucks (at Home Depot,) a gravity feed Master Airbrush $10- 15 bucks on Amazon. Paint is the big cost but Hey you probably have paint. Gad who would paint with a brush?

http://i.imgur.com/6Bi0vfQ.jpg


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

awesome work. coming along nicely.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Trygon vs Mawloc

Decisions, decisions why can anything simple and straight forward.

I finally started assembling my Trygon and there are dozens of extra parts. Thanks GW for all the options; I had less trouble kitting out my car. (Actually the car was a piece of cake I called up half a dozen dealers with the spec's I wanted and one guy said, "They're driving just that vehicle off the trailer as we speak.)

Anyway then I find out that different tails go with the different varients; well F... that I want the forked tail on the basic Trygon. Mebbe he's a 'sport'.

http://i.imgur.com/mxQz7wh.jpg









The other thing I can't understand is why do Tyranids have so many scrotums?


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

The hive mind intends that they are fruitful and multiply.

(They may just be toxin sacks.)


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

My Neglected Tyranids:

Taking advantage of the mild weather I primed my entire Tyranid company starting with the Tyrannofex/Tervigon on which I already practiced my airbrush technique.

Never let it be said that the Blackadder doesn't jump in with both feet instead of practicing with a cheaper model.

Aside from the body already brushed in the basic cockroach colours I did little else on the appendages until today. So first a light coat of Primer gray then a light coat of flat white for the under belly, arms, legs, weapons, and tail; the upper surfaces will be dark so no need for flat white in those areas. 

http://i.imgur.com/QEx64HF.jpg









Its a good thing to have everything primed ahead of time. I used standard spray paint primer instead of Vallejo Model Air because its more durable, adheres better to the basic plastic, forms a better base for the water-base paint to follow and a damned sight cheaper than any modeling acrylic paint.

I painted the entire army for two bucks worth of primer and still have almost the entire cans of paint left. 

So Tyrannofex/Tervigon above, next the Trygon:

http://i.imgur.com/Z5dvEA2.jpg









This is the model that impressed me so that I had to attempt a Tyranid army.

and finally the Carnifex which was apparently sculpted by another artist as the body appears less detailed/refined:

http://i.imgur.com/xdbMD2O.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Peon Army Tyranid Style:

In the hierarchy of the Tyranids there is a gross discrepancy in size and stature so the grunts, pawns, whatever are humanoid sized and are the young of larger and the more powerful pieces as well. An interesting premise. 

Here we have relatively tiny beasties known as Termagant broods (which implies immature) which are born fully developed complete with weaponry in the egg pouch of a Tervigon which makes a Tervigon a sort of Termagant APC and a female Tyrannofex to boot or am I in error?

http://i.imgur.com/JFMKM84.jpg









Next we have Gargoyle broods which are legless but can fly. They are the offspring of what? Do they grow as they mature? 

http://i.imgur.com/lqLe833.jpg









Next we have the Hive Tyrant which comes in two variants winged and wingless midway in size between the humanoid sized larvae and the mature tank sized creatures. What is their role?

http://i.imgur.com/rvl384b.jpg









I find the Tyranids the most fascinating of the alien armies which is probably why I departed from my preoccupation with IG armour on this most atypical tangent.


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

Hey. I'm building some nids now too. Random lot I picked up. Won't be as fancy as these, but hopefully still nice.

What I really wanted to post about was this...http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=12500050

Looks like the nids drop is coming soon! Great time to build an army.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

That link didn't really show anything????????????

Try this one:

I haven't any reason why I suddenly got interested in 'Nids other than the pro-paint video from Buypainted

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=6600054

Peon Army Tyranid Style:

In the hierarchy of the Tyranids there is a gross discrepancy in size and stature so the grunts, pawns, whatever are humanoid sized and are the young of larger and the more powerful pieces as well. An interesting premise. 

Here we have relatively tiny beasties known as Termagant broods (which implies immature) which are born fully developed complete with weaponry in the egg pouch of a Tervigon which makes a Tervigon a sort of Termagant APC and a female Tyrannofex to boot or am I in error?

http://i.imgur.com/JFMKM84.jpg









Next we have Gargoyle broods which are legless but can fly. They are the offspring of what? Do they grow as they mature? 

http://i.imgur.com/lqLe833.jpg









Next we have the Hive Tyrant which comes in two variants winged and wingless midway in size between the humanoid sized larvae and the mature tank sized creatures. What is their role?

http://i.imgur.com/rvl384b.jpg









I find the Tyranids the most fascinating of the alien armies which is probably why I departed from my preoccupation with IG armour on this most atypical tangent.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Question of Technique:

Happy New Year,

Since I am up at 4:00 AM New Years Day I decided to paint the base coat on my Trygon and the paint seems a bit heavily applied. 

http://i.imgur.com/6RGECba.jpg









Since I am a mere tyro at airbrushing my only experience being painting 'Lucie' to date. At that time I used a siphon 'Badger' basic brush with a 0,2 mm orifice.

Now I am using a 'Master' gravity dual action brush and have experienced a devil of a time getting paint through the 0,2 mm orifice on this brush. 

I am using 'Vallejo AV' Model Air paint and 'AV' thinner in different proportions BTW the 'AV' paints bottles are excellent for adding discrete amounts of paint to the cup because the dispenser tip allows measured drops of liquid rather than pouring it in as with the 'Citadel' jars.

Back to the question, what proportion i.e. drops of paint/thinner would be correct for applying a base coat and is the AV 'thinner' really necessary or would water or 'Windex®' work just as well?

I have watched the video ad nauseam :






and have yet to obtain the requisite ease of application Jaro achieves except when I practice on scrap bits which is extremely frustrating.

Can I get a response from some experienced 'brushers regarding these problems or is it just BA's penchant for 'instant gratification' thats the issue?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Mould Lines:

Naturally putting the cart before the horse I Gray' primed, base 'Flat White' painted and applied 'Khaki Brown' base coat before noticing mould lines in the castings; two points off for stupidity Blackadder............ Pay attention to the video BA, Jaro even takes the trouble to announce he sands off the mould lines.

http://i.imgur.com/8NQNbgm.jpg









Now I have to burnish out the fine mould lines and apply yet another coat of Khaki Brown.

http://i.imgur.com/V5uCtva.jpg









FYI Mould lines are fine ridges of plastic that form where the two halves of the mould come together. These should be lightly scraped away with either file or as I shall use a #11 Xacto blade. The above image shows actually a seam between two joined pieces that I shall also have to address but it serves to illustrate what I am talking about as mould lines are far too fine to readily be seen in a photograph.

Not removing these casting discrepancies is just another item that separates us amateurs from the pro-painters

Going back to dress out the seams is not really a problem as I missed painting a few places on the imaged pieces anyway.............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

3M Adhesive Putty:

I don't know if the stuff I have is old and dried out but as it is it is ideal for masking off areas I can't afford to paint. Its dry to the touch softens easily and leaves no residue.

http://i.imgur.com/JU2dByq.jpg









With very little practice you can pull off ribbons to mould around the to be painted areas pushing the excess into the crevasses as you go:

http://i.imgur.com/5Z5xcth.jpg









Base painting the Carnifax just now with Umbral Umber:

http://i.imgur.com/wKaFZgR.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I Apply'a Bayzae Cote uv Khaky Bron:

I nanosić warstwę bazową khaki brązowy

Anyone question why Jaro posts his You-tube tutorial in English?

Anyway I applied my base coat of Khaki Brown to all my 'nids and then applied Umbral Umber to the carapaces on all four biguns.

Today I started fine detailing the Tyrgon and practices fine line airbrushing on the Trivigon egg sacks. 

Umbral Umber is really thick paint and clogged the tip even when diluted 50/50 so painting detail with it is slow going. 

http://i.imgur.com/UdY0MPJ.jpg









BTW the five pieces at the bottom of the image haven't been detailed with umber yet.

Since there are only the two colours applied and no light brown highlights done yet I'm rather pleased with the results thus far. 

I just hope that it's not going to be too dark..............


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

Coming along very nicely, I might need to try that 3M putty idea. Good work


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

Aye I wouldn't be too worried about them being dark. Cockroaches are dark bugs in general and personally I kinda like the hue you got going so far.

Keep it up!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

PZ-360XS

I just got my new airbrush. When I started using an airbrush about a week or two ago I couldn't even get paint to come through the nozzle. Here two weeks later this morning I'm still getting blops of paint, uncontrollable over-spray, in short paint everywhere but where I want it.............

I'm beginning to think I'm inept. Comes the Post; it's the PZ-360XS $29.99 Free Shipping.

I got the quick disconnect with it $1.86 1/8BSP thread with it.

All of a sudden I'm a virtuoso! Fine lines; no problem How thin do you want them? How 'bout the the bony fingers on a Tyranid Gargoyle? I'm painting the individual fingers. This is straight out of the box!

This airbrush is phenomenal, it comes in a nice black case with the 0,5 MM needle tip mounted on the brush. There are two alternate needles 0,2 and 0,3 MM with the corresponding nozzles There is an air adjustment under the cup so you can adjust the airflow with out changing the compressor regulator setting Fabulous!

Now for the real beauty if this unit. There is a knob adjust at the rear of the handle. You use this to adjust the length of the throw on the trigger lever. 

I can't imagine what $200 and $300 dollar airbrushes offer but I am quite satisfied with this model.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

It's a Poor Workman............

The old mechanic's maxim, "It's a poor workman that blames his tools." should be taken with the following corollary; "It's an even poorer workman that uses the wrong tool for the job."

This is the situation I found myself in attempting to paint a masterpiece with a paintball gun.

Below you see my paint area just a simple piece of ribbed cardboard. It's the only area I have been using since my initial foray into precision airbrushing two weeks ago. Before that I did manage after a sort to paint my Warhound with barely satisfactory results a couple of years ago but since then I haven't touched an airbrush. 

http://i.imgur.com/mwKyz1T.jpg









So you see large patches of brown overspray and tip cleaning patches to free clogged nozzles etc. And overlying that are these round patches or blobs of whitish brown. This was the best I could do with the airbrush in an attempt to define thin lines of colour regardless of pressure, proximity, dilution of paint or needle setting, it was a very frustrating excursion into airbrushing prowess.

So yesterday afternoon I received th "PZ-360XS" $29.99 dollar airbrush. 

Suddenly I can paint fine straight consistent lines, swirls and arcs and even write letters in cursive (Aw'right, my handwriting ain't so good!) but you can see that it is the brush that makes the difference. 

Anyway yesterday evening I applied light brown to my brood of 'Termagants' etc and the metal 'Hive Tyrant'

http://i.imgur.com/zMrbUEY.jpg









Finally I can paint individual ribs, fingers, paint goes where I want it and in the correct degree of intensity.......... 

and while I haven't mastered all the niceties of airbrushing I am at last in the right ballpark............


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

does this mean the termagaunts will finally get pencil-thin mustaches?

you could change the thread to: "Cucaracha Coloured Tyranids, AyAyAY!"


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

They are progressing quite nicely - I'm following this one with interest, as I have yet to touch a airbrush. Keep it up!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Separating the Men from the Boys:

Well the artists from the tyros anyway. My first attempt at emulating Mr Jaro at fine line spraying on the spine of the carapace was a fiasco new airbrush not withstanding.

What worked well delineating fingers and tendons doesn't hold true for the relatively large flat expanses of the carapace segments.

There over-spray sticks out like so many sore thumbs and it's going to require a lot of practice to emulate Mr Jaro's quick and steady hand.


http://i.imgur.com/iyI0FeT.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/CdYQXTI.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/qxcauqm.jpg









I displayed this just to demonstrate it's not all beer and skittles with the learning process and I hope to show better in my next post............


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Giant Silurian Centipede:

The more I work on this the more I am reminded of the giant centipede _Arthropleura_ which attained a length of ten feet . The Trygon is quite a bit longer but most of it is tail which I consider cheating............










Anyway I have finally put the finishing touches on the basic painting of the Trygon and am ready to apply the various coatings of orange wash, satin varnish, and an oil/brown wash so it's time to pause for photos.........

http://i.imgur.com/4l0nbS3.jpg









I should really have my head examined for practicing on my most expensive piece but it didn't come out that badly for a first effort considering I've only been using an airbrush for less than a month..........

http://i.imgur.com/JZ8mOjV.jpg









I don't know what I was afraid of, the basics of airbrushing are relatively simple to pick up 

http://i.imgur.com/WRGT6uC.jpg









Of course I had a good instructor in Jaro and all I did so far is copy his work..........

http://i.imgur.com/u1nqPMp.jpg









Now I need a course in photography, why did the colour change from red to green and back to red again with out changing the camera settings?


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## venomlust (Feb 9, 2010)

Ddraig Cymry said:


> Coming along very nicely, I might need to try that 3M putty idea. Good work


Yeah, I saw that and just ordered a pack of a cheaper version off Amazon. I love this forum, so many good ideas to appropriate. :victory:

Awesome looking 'Nids, by the way.


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## fotoshark (Nov 8, 2013)

that's pretty awesome!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

You Sir, are a brilliant painter. My Fiance is disgusted, excellent work!


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## raven_jim (Sep 27, 2013)

Nice to see some good work with the nids, allot of rushed jobs out there with the new release but this looks like some serious time went into it. Hats off to you


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

raven_jim said:


> Nice to see some good work with the nids, allot of rushed jobs out there with the new release but this looks like some serious time went into it. Hats off to you


i keep hearing about new releases, do you have a link to the source?

I started a Tyranid army on a whim last month because I wanted to paint something with some pizazz; I didn't realize that I had stumbled into a 'nid revival! ;D


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## Wookiepelt (Jan 29, 2013)

Blackadder said:


> i keep hearing about new releases, do you have a link to the source?
> 
> I started a Tyranid army on a whim last month because I wanted to paint something with some pizazz; I didn't realize that I had stumbled into a 'nid revival! ;D


Here you go... link to this month's (Jan 2014) GW New Releases page. A couple of new models (Harpy/Hive Crone & Haruspex/Exocrine), a couple of updated models (Hive/Tyrant Guards & Tyranid Warriors) and a completely new Codex!

This is my current bookmarked page as my 7 year old son is now starting his Tyranid horde and I'm having to get into this as well!


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## Ddraig Cymry (Dec 30, 2012)

That is beautiful, nicely done


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

"Wanna See Everybody From Behind":

Okay three of the major players have their base coat applied. That leaves just the Tyrranofex and the three broods to base coat the carapace highlights. Hopefully today..................

http://i.imgur.com/fT2FLf2.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Broods:

I notice Jaro (whom I consider an artist) confines his projects to the larger models.

I would like to see him tackle smaller figures such as these Tyranid Broods. I find it impractical to attempt to paint the highlights on these with an airbrush so I went back to a technique I call dry brushing. 

I painted the entire twenty two pieces with a few drops of paint and a medium sable brush but what I did is drag the brush from ridge to ridge instead of following the line of the ridges. This deposits a fine glaze of pigment on the high spots but doesn't look like a continuous line of paint.

http://i.imgur.com/8YZ2k2c.jpg









I hope to get better pictures as the brown tones look washed out and blotchy in these images.

http://i.imgur.com/4dWCjwh.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/VOhTD8S.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/nyseQa4.jpg


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## whittsy (Feb 8, 2013)

cockroach flavoured nids! Amazing! This makes me want to collect nids for the sake of having a go at doing this same thing.... Unfortunately I'm poor  lol. Keep up the good work. +rep


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## iamtheeviltwin (Nov 12, 2012)

The drybrushing effect looks really good on the smaller bugs. I was wondering whether you would be able to use the same airbrushing techniques on them as you were doing on the larger bugs. Guess this answers the question.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Airbrushing gives a nice finish but all that masking on such tiny areas would be tedious in the extreme plus the overspray minimal as it is would require much touching up anyway.

Plus it would require a lot more highlight paint to do the same job with very little difference in the ultimate result.

There are still an orange highlight spray, a satin varnish spray, and an oil wash still to go........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Tyranidae:

My first attempt at orange glazing the highlights has produced mixed results. The recommended paint applies a nice and thin transparent coating to the light brown highlights:

http://i.imgur.com/RHI8bCz.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/CAgcTSR.jpg









The effect looks somewhat blotchy and needs touching up in my estimation but I am going to go ahead with the procedure on a few of the broods to see how they finish up.

What is particularly nice is the satin sheen that the orange spray give to the carapace.

http://i.imgur.com/zbcSIbs.jpg









Below is the only gargoyle to receive the treatment and I am very pleased with how that is turning out.

http://i.imgur.com/3pljzrV.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Gargoyles Have an air about them:

Well at least this step is half done. Making the wing membranes look like parchment is a bit of an involved process. After brushing a thin coat of Umbral Umber on the arms and finger bones using a combination of dry brushing, buffing and hard rubbing with my thumb I managed to get an appearance that have prompted some to ask what kind on glazing am I using.

http://i.imgur.com/PEWXKwU.jpg









In keeping with my policy of keeping nothing back......

Much as I hesitate to admit this the truth is I wet my thumb with saliva.

Ewhew! Yeah that's right, he said spit.

http://i.imgur.com/E7yx92d.jpg









Face it, it could be worse...........

Never the less incorporating a bit of DNA into the bio-denizens seems almost poetic.

http://i.imgur.com/BEORZyF.jpg









Wassamatter never heard of spit-shined shoes?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

So I Went On Vacation to Florida:

And all I got was a lousy Bio-Titan

Judging by the responses I could have stayed a few more weeks in Florida but I hurried home with this beauty in my hot little hands. There are significant possibilities in the Florida Flea Markets.

http://i.imgur.com/92j5NJl.jpg









So it was a bit damaged a few chips here and there but a Hierophant? Come on what can be wrong with a half price Hierophant?

back after a week with a Tyranid bio-titan; does it get any better than this?


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## Jolnir (Feb 11, 2014)

Hierophant is one of my fave models, and easily the best IMO of the Nids. Can't wait to see it done up.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Hey, that's a steal! Congrats!

I look forward to seeing him join the swarm.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Like a Kid in a Candy Store.........

The Blackadder lacks discipline. The problem is I want it all jumping from one project to another but that's the way I work otherwise I just get bored so bear with me eventually all these projects will be completed just maybe not in our lifetimes 

anyway I have fun and where's the harm in that.

This model is probably the easiest FW production I've seen; very few parts and the moulding flaws and flash enhance and blend with the model sculpting making it so you really can't make a mistake. 

Okay so the tools I used to clean the castings beside the standard razor saw, #11 Xacto blade and 'Utility Knife' are:

To properly assemble this model it would also be prudent to have the following tools to remove the unwanted flash and vents.

The rotary cutters in the foreground I use in my Dremel; I have the cordless model which saves you fighting with the electric cord and speed control which my previous Dremel had and was a big pain in the @$$. The freedom of cordless is the better way to go and the battery lasts a long time between charges. 

http://i.imgur.com/m0qkIWW.jpg









Back to the cutter bits the three to the left are actually dentist drills I got from my dentist as they were too worn to use for drilling teeth although they are fine for plastic.

Also shown is the nail clipper diagonal cutters I use to remove sprues and vents and to the far left the steel emery boards flat and curved for sanding and rounding.

Note on the head the only problem with the model I bought is that the leaf-like structure on the side of the tongue is totally missing and I'll have to sculpt a replacement. All the other chips and bits were with the model and have been re-glued in place.

The image below shows the tail mount with the moulding sprue completely removed and the tail likewise undercut so the two chitin plates match and overlap perfectly. 

http://i.imgur.com/V6LzSfL.jpg









I am going to pin the tail to the body with steel coat hanger wire when the time comes to mount it.

Other than that the model is ready to prime.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Sow's Ear:

I begin to make a silk purse of this abomination.........

Now that I have cleaned up most of the casting flaws it's time to address the broken detail which while it would be noticeable to virtually no one my particular form of mania will never be satisfied with imperfections no matter how invisible. Don't you just feel for Mrs Blackadder?

http://i.imgur.com/rq5u6gT.jpg









The red rectangle indicates where the very tips of the ribs broke away a few square millimeters of resin. I made up a strong batch of 24 hour aircraft quality A4 Epoxy and replaced the four missing tips. After the epoxy had hardened a few hours so it was barely sticky to the touch I hand moulded the tips to an over-sized facsimile of the errant rib-ends. 

A bit later I attempted the skeletal striations but the epoxy is still a bit too sticky.

Meanwhile the edge of the front fumarole suffered a bit of damage so I built that up as well with an excess of epoxy that when hardened can be sanded and carved into shape.

http://i.imgur.com/5NcUS0x.jpg









Finally I addressed the missing tongue component which required a complete mirror sculpting of the opposite piece. Again I made the initial missing part over-sized and allowed to harden then shaped the bit and when this is dry I will final sand it to the desired size and secure with cyano acetate glue.

http://i.imgur.com/ZTPcIJz.jpg









This of course is an over exertion for such trivial objects but the practice is the thing. Someday I may need to replace or repair some critical component and the knowledge I can do it will serve me well.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Nid Week:

There's a few good Hierophant assembly videos on You-tube and the best I've found is "Nid Week" except for the hour plus run time it is a detailed account of the assembly.






I can offer one improvement on his excellent discourse. The Blackadder has no illusion about the size of his fingers and watching the struggle the assembler is having picking up and installing the extremely tiny spurs on the underbelly I suggest picking up the spur by the tip by sticking a sharp straight pin in the tip of the spur making it easy to pick up align and install in the tiny cup receptacle on the model. I use Industrial strength Cyano-acrylate glue that dries in seconds and holds strong. The pin can be pressed on to hold the spur secure until the glue holds.

http://i.imgur.com/2aw7EFK.jpg









The image above shows the smallest spur with the pin still impaling the tip. Once dried the pin is easily removed and the microscopic pinhole will be filled with the painted finish.


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

How do you manage to find the time to do all your projects? I cant even seem to find the time to put together a Razorback in a month and you scratchbuild titan Carapace within the same time frame. It is a pleasure to watch you work. (figuratively of course i dont actually creep outside of you house and stare into your window :secret


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Very very impressive.


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## BlackGuard (Sep 10, 2010)

Extremely well done. This has inspired me with my Tyranids.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Repair and Detailing:

someone asked me how I repaired the damage on this second hand Hierophant. I used aircraft grade 24 hour epoxy A4 Metalset available on the internet just google, 'A4 Metalset'. The stuff I have expired years ago but is still viable for model work although I suspect it has lost it's original strength for Military Aircraft Spec's. 

http://i.imgur.com/sulOu1m.jpg









It mixes one to one and by varying the ratio you can lengthen or decrease the curing time. I increase the hardener component so the malleability is decreased to about four hours. Good enough for non-gov'ment work.

In the videos linked above the author installed the forward fumarole in a less than professional manner with ruddy great gaps in the joint to be filled in later with some sort of filler. This gives a weakened joint that may fail after your beautiful paint job is finished causing a glaring seam in your otherwise flawless finish.

http://i.imgur.com/PeWIZsz.jpg









I used the Metalset which is both filler and cement in one and has the added benefit of being sculpt-able in it's latter drying period and has very much the same strength as the original resin so in effect the piece is welded to the body. 

After the epoxy was completely dried I scoured striations to meld the base with the fumarole with a dull #11 Xacto blade so the seam is virtually invisible.

http://i.imgur.com/F0Minii.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Restoring a Basket Case:

I strongly suspect there is a bit of a sadistic streak in the FW modelers; they seem to have made this model much harder than is necessary to assemble almost as though they want the purchasers to botch the assembly. While some of the spurs might have been necessary as separate pieces the micro tiny ones were unnecessary in my opinion and were included only to confound the modeler and enhance the part count.

As you may have noticed that after tedious cleaning I primed the entire model with a uniform coat of flat grey primer. There is a reason for this. The model being cast in two colours makes it hard to spot flaws and crevasses were grey resin affixes to the white body component. You will note on the video that even the purported professional author's spurs are misaligned even when contrasted with the white body part. This will become more apparent when the model is painted a more uniform colour and the spurs are picked out as in mine where they will be blue/black. By painting everything the same colour the eye can more readily see the misalignment and correct it before the glue dries.

Above I mentioned using a pin to pick up and place the millimeter sized spurs in place but even that proved inadequate. I now am impaling the the insidiously microscopic spurs on the tip of a NEW # 11 Xacto blade much as I use to install individual rivets on my scratch builts.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Head Appendages:

The cheek appendages mount in the recesses below and aft of the eye and judging by the way they are moulded are supposed to angle down a degree or two. There is a left and right mandible so care must be taken that the sculpting of the cheek continues into the sculpting of the mandible, if it doesn't you have them upside down and on the wrong side.

There are square holes in the cheek recesses but no corresponding pins on the mandibles so I drilled and implanted my own 1,5 MM styrene square stock which serves to align and strengthen the glue joint.

http://i.imgur.com/sY7kJLG.jpg









Note the strip sticking out of the right cheek the left mandible already dry mounted.

Here you see the variety of tools I used to fair the mandibles into the cheeks so the glue seam is less visible. Note the cyanoacrylate glue I am using, it bonds super strong dries quickly and is thick enough to be useful as a seam filler that can be sanded and carved

http://i.imgur.com/hxFUPdU.jpg









The trailing edge of the mandibles require some fairing in in spite of my efforts but that could not be helped. the Needle files and diamond files made short work of the indiscretions.

http://i.imgur.com/YwmdaWF.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Piece of Cake

As far mas FW models are concerned getting this Hierophant ready for painting was a piece of cake. Right now it is sanded,cleaned, primed and assembled apart from the sub assemblies in a couple of work sessions and it would have been done sooner except I had to fabricate replacement parts. Maybe all totaled 10 hours work.

You can't tell from the photos but the top surface is grey primer and the underside of most of the components are primer white over grey primer.

http://i.imgur.com/5jMhGHb.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/xdVStx4.jpg









In the images below the head is just stuck on with tack putty I'll be painting that seperately

http://i.imgur.com/MF9EpDf.jpg









Note the hole in the second from the front arm socket. For once FW put the vent core in the right area so it can be used as a ready made assembly pin. taking advantage of that will give me a good solid leg mount.

http://i.imgur.com/kN0iOT7.jpg









I'm sure that was purely unintentional or FW would have lopped it off before shipping. Buggers!


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## Jolnir (Feb 11, 2014)

This build thread keeps getting better and better. Can't wait to see some colour!


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Yikes, it's bigger than I thought! And you said the spines that were smaller than 1mm were separately cast?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> Yikes, it's bigger than I thought! And you said the spines that were smaller than 1mm were separately cast?


In the second image if you look on the neck in the front forward facing spike the very front spur in the recess is about a millimeter by two and behind that the five spurs in a row before the rudimentary arm base position, the rear spur is even smaller. on the Chitin back plates the downward pointing spurs abaft the each of the large spikes affix to bases not more than a millimeter square. Before the hip the spurs are so small I can't even see them in the expanded link image and I know where they are! 

You can't tell me with all the convoluted mouldings on this casting that those tiny bits needed to be cast separately....

meanwhile:

We're Gonna Need a Bigger Boat!

Or a least a bigger pipeline to a paint source. I just blew through my entire stash of 'Khaki Brown' base coat paint and I haven't even finished base-coating this beast. I started with full strength "Vallejo 'Model Air' " but ended up diluting it 50/50 or I wouldn't get the basic body parts covered with the what I had on hand. Fortunately I have Amazon prime so the needed paint should arrive tomorrow. Meanwhile I can proceed with the accent P3 'Umbral Umber' brown on much of the model so I won't be held back too much. I have half a vial of that left so not enough for the Chitin back plated but enough to add shadow to the underbelly, legs, head, and tail.

http://i.imgur.com/IDGjvFj.jpg









I think this beast will work well with the colour scheme I have selected but its size may require a lot more detailed highlights for the exposed tendons and connective tissue.

http://i.imgur.com/oBjkAqu.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Bigger They Are:

It's as I always maintained the bigger the model the easier to work it. Naturally it requires more paint and the detail will be daunting but for the basic effects say the shadow between the ribs where it was hit or miss/touch and go for even a model as big as a Trygon this model actually required spraying from two directions to cover the shadows.

The images below do not do it justice and I am practicing on the bottom portion of the ribs but the effect is just right to the eye. Once the highlight of 'Light Brown' is applied to the exterior of the ribs there will be a very natural contrast............. I hope, ..... well I'm reasonable certain, ... er or I'm completely blowing it............

http://i.imgur.com/49q1sOj.jpg









I may even need a second application of shadow............

http://i.imgur.com/TBBdeGD.jpg









This is more like a dinosaur dig..........


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Roadkill Titan:

Looking for all the world like a roadkill desiccate carcass on the side of the byway. This is after the second coat of ultra thinned Umberal Umber which finally penetrated to the sublevels of the connective tissues.

http://i.imgur.com/PLSVxz8.jpg









This model is an amazing piece of casting. The ribs seem to go down at least two levels below the surface openings between the ribs. How they managed to extricate the mould from the casting is beyond me. Perhaps a variant on the 'Lost Wax' method.


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## Jolnir (Feb 11, 2014)

This is looking so skeletal and badass. Quite fossil-like. Seeing the intricate details of the underside as well as the overall epicness of it, the heirophant has officially become my favorite 40k model.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Harridan Hijinks 

No doubt that GW/FW (tongue in cheekedly)named their flying Titan Harridan in deference to irate spouses haranguing about the money wasted on such childish nonsense. Never mind that she has a closet full of dresses and other apparel that was only worn once but can't be again because everyone has seen her in it while you still wearing the same suit you graduated in and she changes her hair style/colour as often as you change your socks. I consider myself a patron of the arts and the FW Tyranid Titans are definitively that, art.

With that rational set aside I set about preparing the Harridan for priming and painting.

The first order was to modify the wing mount recess to accommodate the excellent root casting vent so thoughtfully provided by the casting.

http://i.imgur.com/VrLXw8d.jpg









After squaring up the plug I sketched in the approximate position for the plug recess. I want my wings detachable you see as the model wingtips are so delicate i'm afraid they might break off in handling


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Rhymes With Orange:

I went a bit overboard with the orange highlights on the Hive Tyrant and (what are these little dudes) Ah yes Termagants. so before I backtrack and repaint the legs I took some pictures.

Airbrushing highly thinned orange kind of sneaks up on you and the orange looks much more intense once it dries so use it sparingly because if it looks right when its wet it'll be too orange when it dries.

http://i.imgur.com/b4YfYbU.jpg









While I'm waiting for the Umbral Umber Formula P3 paint to come it's a good time to bring the Hormagaunt brood up to speed. I'm trying to paint everything at once so as my technique improves everything will be at the same level of accomplishment.

Here we see a close up of my first work Termagants left and my most recent work yesterday the Hormagaunts which still need the carapace fringes highlighted and the orange glazing.....

http://i.imgur.com/8ElvTYh.jpg









Termagants much too orange!

http://i.imgur.com/x9s66CU.jpg









and the basic painted Hormagaunts............

http://i.imgur.com/JiRX0Ed.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Okay so yesterday I cleaned primed and painted the base coat on the Harridan and cleaned the flash and mould plugs/vents off of the Chaos Warhound and this morning I cleaned the flash and mould plugs/vents off the Lucius Warhound which is now in the process of being primed. Its been a busy week but now time for pictures

The Harridan wing root recesses were cut out to receive the extended plugs moulded into the wing roots so there is a nice solid connection to stabilize the wing without gluing. 

Note the slot I cut in the wing recess to receive the moulded plug. 

http://i.imgur.com/QLINaT1.jpg









The model is primed and the underside painted a flat white prime and allowed to dry overnight to receive the acrylic paint a thin base coat of Model Air Khaki Brown.

The upper surface I left in grey prime as the top base coat will be P3 Umbral Umber. 

http://i.imgur.com/vdTDYWQ.jpg









With wings attached this is an impressive model the top view showing up the diminutive figure beside the head.

http://i.imgur.com/X8fFiaI.jpg


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Looking excellent, a truly massive model. I'd be really interested to see your hobby storage solution and I would really appreciate it if you could talk us through how you cut the slot for that casting plug into the solid resin.


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## DeathJester921 (Feb 15, 2009)

Blackadder said:


> No doubt that GW/FW (tongue in cheekedly)named their flying Titan Harridan in deference to irate spouses haranguing about the money wasted on such childish nonsense. Never mind that she has a closet full of dresses and other apparel that was only worn once but can't be again because everyone has seen her in it while you still wearing the same suit you graduated in and she changes her hair style/colour as often as you change your socks. I consider myself a patron of the arts and the FW Tyranid Titans are definitively that, art.


This is probably one of the greatest things I have ever read. Well done sir

Also your work is fantastic. Wish I had this level of talent. And the money to spend on all of this. Thatd be great too


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Iraqiel said:


> Looking excellent, a truly massive model. I'd be really interested to see your hobby storage solution and I would really appreciate it if you could talk us through how you cut the slot for that casting plug into the solid resin.


Sure no problem. 

You need some sort of drill and assorted drill bits and a chisel, I use an Xacto 1/2 inch chisel blade and handle:

http://i.imgur.com/JqXhjpj.jpg









Note:
Care must be employed using a chisel. All the nastiest cuts I have received over the years have come from the *misuse* of this particular tool. I would say the chisel is the most dangerous hobby tool because you push it into or along your work.

And sometimes toward the holder which is usually your hand.......

What can I say; you use tools, you get cut inevitably. You don't want to get cut, take up Nerf ball as a hobby.

I started by drilling small pilot holes approximately 1/4 inch (6,3 MM) equidistant apart down the center of the drawn rectangle I made in the recess. 

http://i.imgur.com/VrLXw8d.jpg









Resin is extremely soft to cutting tools like drill-bits so the pilot holes keep the larger bits from wandering.

I next drilled 1/4 inch holes (6,3 MM) about 3/8 inch deep (9,5 MM) with a 1/4 inch bit. 

So now the slot has about six holes in a row down the center and the holes just barely touch each other. 

Then I take my Xacto 1/2 chisel blade and cut out the remaining triangles of material between the holes.

The soft resin cuts like cheese when using the sharp blades so you have to use care that the blade does not slip. Just push the blade down where the pencil line marks out the side of the slot you are making.

I usually make the slots undersized and trim them out with the chisel to fit the plug.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Thanks for the walk through! 

That's essentially how I go about doing it, but as I don't have bigger drills it means I make more holes and take a lot longer to clean it up...


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

More holes is good.............

A Tale of Two Titans:

Last night I couldn't get the airbrush to work right so I soaked the components in brush cleaner overnight and everything is working fine this morning.

The image below shows the two Bio-titans bodies, the Hierophant with a solid brown carapace and the Harridan with the beginning of a tiger striped effect that I am experimenting with; I think it needs an intermediate stripe on each scote.

http://i.imgur.com/wduE5xH.jpg









The image below shows the Hierophant and the bottom view of it's head which I am having so difficulty. I left the top of the head grey and I feel that if I make it all brown it won't look right as the head is so small in proportion to the body it will be overwhelmed if only picked out in brown.

http://i.imgur.com/oWvF8Dv.jpg









The legs and weapons on the other hand are coming along splendidly. At the moment they only have two colours sprayed on but the airbrush allows such variety that they look like they required more colours and work than they actually did. 

http://i.imgur.com/wIRYPN6.jpg









For someone who in January could not even get paint through the nozzle of an airbrush my technique has improved dramatically. An affect that I can attribute to the excellent "Precision" AirBrush shown in the images.

For thirty bucks US it's an astounding airbrush and bargain plus the shipping is free.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Harridan Cannot Fold Its Wings:

It seems to me a Harridan must fly it's whole life. It has no legs to spring into the air as some birds do or sprint forward to gather ground speed so the wings can assist take off as larger birds such as the Albatross do. Add to that the carapace interferes with the ability to even fold the wings let alone flap. The small rear appendages are not sufficiently long enough to allow the wings to flap in close proximity to the ground so a static flapping takeoff is out of the question as well.

So the scenario is the Harridan is launched from the hive Mother-ship, do what Harridans do and somehow get back to the mother-ship where there are no doubt cradles that house the Harridan where not in active service.

That said this model and the Hierophant is the simplest FW models imaginable. I bought and painted both in less than two weeks of sporadic attention in which I also cleaned and prepped two Warhounds and drove to and from Florida and attended a Baptism.

Below are images for your edification and probably need no explanation:

http://i.imgur.com/XjZ1Bap.jpg








http://i.imgur.com/2UMV0ba.jpg








http://i.imgur.com/z1OtvhD.jpg








http://i.imgur.com/wWqjVo8.jpg








http://i.imgur.com/rfZbm0a.jpg


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Thirty Dollar Airbrush:

I love my $30 dollar airbrush. I can't imagine what airbrushes that cost ten times as much can do that this little jewel doesn't?

I just returned from a hiatus in Georgia, picked up where I left off painting the Hierophant legs. It's a shame that the camera doesn't pick up the depth of the paint on the legs.

http://i.imgur.com/qLZXWvw.jpg









I can see down three levels of pigment which gives the muscle an extremely lifelike appearance; almost repulsive to see, just what you want on your Tyranid Bio-Titan.

http://i.imgur.com/M1IYslo.jpg









I'm not giving any credit to my painting abilities, I give all the credit to the airbrush. I still can't paint for beans with the other brushes I have.

http://i.imgur.com/AyentaO.jpg









And the Paasche Talon Still sits in the box virtually untouched...

http://i.imgur.com/i5wI2MS.jpg









If you're having trouble getting the results you want with you current airbrush I heartily recommend the Precision PZ-360XS.

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated-0-2mm/dp/B004KNDQMM

Free Shipping.


----------



## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Your painting skills are truly impressive, that titan is shaping up very nicely. i too got a cheap airbrush recently, but it has been sitting unused for a while.


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I have: 

A few cheap 'Master airbrushes (By cheap I mean they came free with the 'Master Air Compressor) and a Badger siphon style airbrush from the 80's that were virtually never used until last December with indifferent results.

In December I purchased an 'inexpensive' PZ-360XS (and a moderately priced Paasche Talon which remains virtually unused)

This March I purchased a second PZ-360XS so I can swap 'brushes without the hassle of immediate cleaning.

I also bought a '360 for my son and he loves it....


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Here Come's The Weekend Baby What's Goin' On:

Do we put our feet up baby or party all night long?

Well I vote for "Party" but I am frequently outvoted so I retaliated and decided to work on the Hierophant with the following results:

http://i.imgur.com/TRBH7Qy.jpg









Most threads I've seen show the finished results but I have decided to throw caution to the wind and show the interim steps i.e. the masking because of course this thread is a tutorial and has to show how it's done.

Not that I am to be taken as "God's spiel" being a novice at airbrushing but alternatively a firm believer in, "If I can do it you can do it....."

Anyway (as you may perceive the weekend imbibement is firmly taking it's toll) I have started detailing the painting of the Hierophant

http://i.imgur.com/QftaXyT.jpg









The Above two images were from earlier this week but today I started highlighting the scutes with AV Light Brown and it is providing satisfactory results:

http://i.imgur.com/3w0vh9Y.jpg









Note the 3M tack putty isolating the areas to be painted from the already painted parts.

http://i.imgur.com/hIm8kYM.jpg









Because this model is so big the process is taking much longer than I am accustom but by Monday I hope to have the carapace completed.


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Dry Run:

After a week of masking, painting, installing armatures I finally reached a point where everything is coming together.

The Hierophant was the most difficult to do as the chitin segments were quite a bit smaller than the Harridan's on average and the leg armour was quite intricate to get right.

I watch the 'BuyPainted' video over and over with envy over Jaro's seeming ease in applying finely controlled layers of pigment.

http://i.imgur.com/SwmDRCF.jpg









Of course the images displayed here reflect only the two base colours 'Umbral Umber' and 'Light Brown' over a base coat of 'Khaki Brown'.

Hard to believe I am only in the second stage of painting and washes on these magnificent beasts............

http://i.imgur.com/T485Ur5.jpg









I seem to have got a lot of mileage out of two colours and am about to move on to the next layer a subtle orange wash.

http://i.imgur.com/L08Ez4s.jpg









More important is the pose I have decided upon; the Hierophant rearing back on it's haunches in a more threatening stance than the typical four on the floor plodding image.

http://i.imgur.com/LD1LXEd.jpg









Hence the armature.............

Next the Harridan which is in about the same stage of completion........


----------



## iamtheeviltwin (Nov 12, 2012)

That is wonderfully done. The combination of color scheme and pose make that incredibly creepy looking.


----------



## torealis (Dec 27, 2006)

That is fantastic. I'm so glad it isn't me doing it...


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Harridan Wings and Chitin:

After quite a bit of thought I decided to just do the wings in hand rubbed P3 'Umbral Umber.' First applying a base coat of Cardboard Carton paint and letting dry over night










which is a flat beige similar to the AV 'Khaki' but a lot cheaper for large coverage. 

I then airbrushed on a light coat of 'Umbral Umber' and rubbed it into the base coat while still wet working the paint into the base coat with wetted thumb and palm of hand until excess came off in fine rolls. This gave a glossy parchment texture to the large wing surfaces.

http://i.imgur.com/TP8rEWz.jpg









The large flat surfaces of the wings came out a bit blotchy but that should be rectified by the next coat of AV 'Light Brown':

http://i.imgur.com/KbQOvIR.jpg










The fringe of 'Light Brown on the chitin segments look too perfect to my taste but we'll see when the washes are applied...........

http://i.imgur.com/YHaEoPp.jpg


----------



## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

These are two very, very impressive projects... and very scary monsters! 

Shaping up nicely, I'm really enjoying this progress log!


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

The Gargoyle Brood:

Well the Gargoyles have finally caught up to the rest of the army; interesting how I found them the most trying to do of all the denizens.

I would be interesting to see these flying in formation with the Harridan on a gameboard.

http://i.imgur.com/a56c9OZ.jpg









Figure included for scale...........

http://i.imgur.com/OC9OhJl.jpg









So the next step I guess is to finish up the orange wash on all the pieces.........mebbe tomorrow.

A couple of off white balance images to round off the evening:

http://i.imgur.com/yKzQ2mW.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/kfFsmHD.jpg


----------



## Tugger (Jul 22, 2013)

Wow man these are looking absolutely awesome


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Hodgepodge:

I needed to see where I stood regarding going to the next step in the sequence of steps to a completed Tyranid army. 

okay so the box at the right are the components that still need to have the chitin skutes edged with 'Light Brown' and the box on the left are ready for the 'Orange' highlight. I managed to do about a third today so what is in the box to the right are what remain to be done..........

http://i.imgur.com/Q8xpQkm.jpg









On an aside the Bio-titans are ready for the 'Orange' highlights and don't figure in to this and are not in either box.

What are in the box are the:

Trygon 50% ready

Carnifax 50% ready

Tyranfax 50% ready

Hive Tyrant 100% ready

and the Termagant Brood 100% ready.

and it just dawned on me I have to figure out what parts go to what beastie?

Ha!


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Question of Acrylic Paint Thinners:

I'm running out of Airbrush thinner and was about to order some on Amazon but the shipping costs are prohibitive.

Then I read a critique on the AV Vallejo paint thinner and the Tamiya Thinner and was apprised that Vodka was an excellent replacement for the much more expensive commercial thinners

So I am going to try using Vodka to thin my paint........ with

Perhaps a drop or two of dry Vermouth

What next Blackadder; an olive perhaps?


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Hive Tyrant:

The Hive Tyrant was my first Tyranid unfortunately a metal construct (Metal is good thought I) so it will be the first to receive full treatment starting with the 'orange' highlights.

Spraying on an Orange 50/50 dilute AV Model Air at the lightest spray my 0,5 orifice Point Zero PZ360XS airbrush can achieve deposited just a hint of highlight, my first attempt earlier this year made everything too orange.

http://i.imgur.com/XqcT0Wh.jpg









I assembled the basic 'Tyrant legs, head, and tail fortunately the weapons clip on so but sets temporarily attached:

http://i.imgur.com/ngFwgHW.jpg









This beastie will have wings (purchased separately ebay) so the redundant weaponry is just for show the other CC armoury will be magnetically attached........

http://i.imgur.com/BnVPrRU.jpg









Next will come the satin varnish which I'll apply tomorrow after the acrylics have completely dried.

http://i.imgur.com/x4Cd6fR.jpg









Then the fine detail colours; teeth, veins, black talons, pink and purple poison sack etc will be applied. perhaps the points and edges will stop shedding paint every time the model is touched.

Now for a well deserved tumbler of my special blend paint thinner....Cheers!


----------



## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

I think this looks good . . . It's hard to make clear understandings of the colors because your light source is quite Orange already (incandescent). Please use the "incandescent" white balancing setting on your camera or phone for the next set of photos. (Or white balance in Photoshop, if you have it.)


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I take several photos with flash and without and take the most representative of the true colour to post. The above image are of approximately the true colour considering the black background. 

Actually I've received requests for photos against a black or white background instead of the cardboard carton impromptu spray booth that I use for a better contrast with the model.

What you see above is as close as I could come considering the background....


----------



## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

A Study In Black:

A very productive day although the images belie the effort.

After applying a satin varnish to about all the pieces of the various models I spent a substantial portion of my modeling time to applying black paint to the claws and talons of all my Tyranid army.

Below is a representative of these so I am in phase three of four the project where after applying the varnish.

http://i.imgur.com/atFEXTl.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/BnvyLe5.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/S5UYoAP.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/AtAHD9S.jpg









Still to do is the teeth and the various washes and of course the final assembly.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Looking excellent. =)


----------



## Jolnir (Feb 11, 2014)

Sick as per usual.


----------



## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

You sir.......... Need a hobby. erm.. wait. Looks great BA keep it up.


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## Zion (May 31, 2011)

Just saw these guys because of the update. Very nicely done, captures that roach look pretty well.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Rhymes With Orange Again:

Was this over the top, I can't tell.

I'm hoping I didn't go too far with the orange highlight and the oil wash will tone it down a tad. I certainly need to blend the tail into the body and the black spurs I hope are not a mistake.

http://i.imgur.com/FlHSjMJ.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/J5XLKfU.jpg









The red mouth and tongue are only base coated and will be subdued with purples and blues and black oil wash

http://i.imgur.com/Von3NTm.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/QW74VuP.jpg









Perhaps I should have primed the d-mned thing grey and let it go at that.........


----------



## Zion (May 31, 2011)

Looks good to me! :good:


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Looks fine. Honestly, I'd prefer it if my (not that I have one) bio-titan stood out. It should be brighter and more 'dangerous' looking I think, like a sea snake or other brightly coloured, deadly earth animals.


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## Varakir (Sep 2, 2009)

This plog has nowhere near the level of love it deserves - i've popped in a few times but never commented so my apologies. These are fucking awesome!

I think you've easily captured the scheme you were aiming for, they are truly repulsive. great work :victory:


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## Zion (May 31, 2011)

Iraqiel said:


> Looks fine. Honestly, I'd prefer it if my (not that I have one) bio-titan stood out. It should be brighter and more 'dangerous' looking I think, like a sea snake or other brightly coloured, deadly earth animals.


I like it better this way, mostly for the mental image of someone flipping on a light and it trying to find a fridge big enough to hide under.


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## Kreuger (Aug 30, 2010)

Looking good. Could we have some close ups of the surface detail?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Whoops! missed your post Kreuger, I'll try later to address your request. Thanks to all that posted replies I guess my "Instant email notification turned belly up....."

Hmmm shows "No Email Notification"

Anyway I'm back for a while ready to proceed with this painting exercise.

What Big Teef You Have:

I wanted to show the teeth on the Hive Tyrant before I oil washed it. The teeth on the Gargoyle is done with just AVMC White 70951 but the Tyrant has three paints applied in order; AVMA Light Brown 71027, AVGC Bone White 72034 and AVMC White 70951

I really can't see much difference:

http://i.imgur.com/KJqPHhx.jpg









What is showing up to a distressing degree is the yellow fluorescing of the Orange highlight which I hope is being caused by the combination of Curly Fry lighting and digital flash. 

http://i.imgur.com/Kc8umZ4.jpg









In this third image I turned off the flash and the proper colour is somewhat restored but still looks much more orange than it does in natural lighting.

http://i.imgur.com/XEhaeLo.jpg









The Hive Tyrant also has a coat of AV Acrylic Clear Satin Varnish with which I am experimenting. It seems a bit expensive to force water based Varnish through an airbrush when a perfectly adequate Acrylic Satin Varnish is available in aerosol spray cans. Anyone have experience using either?, and the pluses and minus' of each?


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Home Stretch:

I'm about three quarters way through the second Buypainted video on all my Tyranids: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJha39IUztU

Where I just applied the satin varnish to the models, Jaro can talk your way through this much better than I can.

http://i.imgur.com/ycrd3c6.jpg









Now I need only finish the claws, teeth and mouths, apply the wash and seal the models.

http://i.imgur.com/Zx9tvZS.jpg









This is but a small sampling of the models; missing from the photos are the Harridan, Tyrannofex, Gargoyle Brood, Ternagant brood, and Hergamont brood.

http://i.imgur.com/11N6pfX.jpg









Following Jaro's Trygon instructions and transposing them to the rest of the menagerie I managed a reasonable facsimile of his work; not perfect but better than I hoped for.

http://i.imgur.com/jqD09Y4.jpg









Interesting that the Trygon head is about the same size as the much larger Hierophant's head.

http://i.imgur.com/ztH32OK.jpg









The rest of the models after the varnish finishes drying.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Some brain droppings as I wait for the paint to dry................

Tyranid Dentition:

It strikes me as I work on these monsters that they are not all carnivores.

True the Carnifex and Tryannofex have the teeth of meat eaters Theropods e.g. Tyrannosaur, Tarbosaur.

http://museumvictoria.com.au/images/featureimage.jpg?&i=/pages/11035/Tarbosaurus.jpg

likewise the H. & T. 'Gants and the Gargoyles being analogous to Raptors and Pterosaurs although there is speculation that some Pterosaurs were fish eaters.

The Tyrgon and Harridan have the dentition of fish eaters

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/Mounted_Spinosaurus.jpg

The Hierophant is decidedly a vegan having small peglike teeth similar to herbevorous Sauropods e.g. Apatosaur, Camarosaur etc:

http://www.nature.com/polopoly_fs/7...pg_gen/derivatives/landscape_630/Dinosaur.jpg

This goes along with the small head and huge abdomen which would be a fermenting vat to break down fiber the resulting methane could be modified into toxic weapon chemicals and of course flatus........ they never mention this in the codex. 

-- 
E. Blackadder


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## neferhet (Oct 24, 2012)

SO..the Hyerophant is vegan? 
And farts you to death with goddam gouts of vegan death clouds?????









BTW those beasties looks damn creepy. Must be due to my avversion to cockroaches...


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## Moriouce (Oct 20, 2009)

Very good theory Blackadder! I'm behind you and your leadeating Tyranids to 100%. If someone tries to ruin it by saying, "he got giant claws". Take a look at this! 
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Therizinosauroidea


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Hey a Rabbit skeleton might be just the thing for a basis for my Nuln Queen Bio-Titan but I think I'll stick with the giant centipede on the first page. That would make a fantastic Nuln Queen.










Picture that rearing up 2/3 meter tall against the Warlord................

Meanwhile:

Trust Me, It's Not That Yellow:

Well at the suggestion of one of my readers I messed around with the white balance and ended up with a blue Hierophant:

http://i.imgur.com/cbHDFwO.jpg









You would think the yellow would change but no just the rest of the model has this weird blue glow instead, Ha!

So I put the setting back and changed the venue and we're back to the orange highlights looking yellow. 

http://i.imgur.com/MDgduYn.jpg









Meanwhile the Varnishing continues after a deluge of biblical proportions yesterday where I daren't apply varnish in that type of humidity.

http://i.imgur.com/zfj5fb6.jpg









Putting the time to good use priming the Chaos Titan.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Hierophant Attaching the Legs:

I used Locktite 5 minute epoxy to attach the legs.

http://i.imgur.com/R6Cl3Rq.jpg









The rear legs have a huge attach point cup and knuckle to apply glue so modification was not necessary 

http://i.imgur.com/Iz1PxTz.jpg









but the front legs attach point is rather flimsy so I did the following. When I first received the model there were vent plugs moulded into the front attach knuckle; I left those and instead drilled receiving holes in the cup socket.

http://i.imgur.com/zHvkLFA.jpg









Being rather paranoid about the durability of such a heavy yet delicate model I went further and drilled reinforcement rod holes in the vent plugs and inserted coat hanger wire rods through the body and into each shoulder to strengthen the joint.

http://i.imgur.com/T5PZ75H.jpg









Note the hole through the body at the second shoulder recess in this off colour image.

http://i.imgur.com/V3TgazN.jpg









Now that this process is documented I can proceed with the actual gluing.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Attaching the Front Legs:

Here we see the right front leg attached; I really like this pose compared to most I've seen of the Hierophant. It has an aggressive quality whereas the usual pose has a more submissive/defensive aspect.

http://i.imgur.com/zRIq09o.jpg









The left side view shows of the more belligerent stance to good advantage.

http://i.imgur.com/elTAeBg.jpg









And a close up shows the coat hanger rod protruding from the shoulder ready for the arm attachment.

http://i.imgur.com/JMuJ4GD.jpg









I probably will be putting the guns on pivots so the can be trained up and down. The model is very limited in how it can be posed so the gun elevation is about all you can make variable.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Life Imitates Hollywood:

Rambug
http://i.imgur.com/WpS1Zl5.jpg









Rambo
http://i.imgur.com/9ABWCes.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/ups0mQA.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/Jj5TN03.jpg


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## whittsy (Feb 8, 2013)

:good: cracking work.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

Building a Base:

seeing how this model is so delicate I have to make a proper base; it's as good a time as any to try to make a display scene so the beauty of this model can be appreciated. I first selected a proper base plate which in fact is the largest I have in my inventory.

The plaque I chose is one foot in diameter and 3/4 inch thick made by Heirloom Craft Products in York PA 17402; No google listing so they must be out of business.....

http://i.imgur.com/kk4LqvI.jpg









This base is about three inches in diameter bigger than the work base and should be adequate.

http://i.imgur.com/h0NYgFy.jpg


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## neferhet (Oct 24, 2012)

Is it screaming "AAAAUGH!"?
Incredible stuff here.
http://youtu.be/8gyJIg2mAuY?t=26s


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply,

Some Trial Bases:

So after years of modeling I've finally decided to learn how to make bases for my work.

Even though my Titans have screaming need for display stands I figured the Tyranids would be best to experiment on so here's a couple I played with last night and early this morning I thought, "Why not 'Skulls'?"

http://i.imgur.com/GqMdgdC.jpg









Rummaging though the bitz box I found dozens of skulls on various Chaos sprues, clipped them, primed with bone white and placed them on the newly primed bases. Hmmm? thinks I, "Something's missing.....Why not Skeletons?" 

http://i.imgur.com/PIAG7gb.jpg










So I whipped up a rib cage out of wire; it's a tad over-sized but not too bad for a first attempt. 

http://i.imgur.com/2DpKwZg.jpg









Once I get the procedure down I'll present a demo on how to make 'em.

http://i.imgur.com/VXnUrZW.jpg









I need to find coarser cork but the sand gravel came right out of my driveway apron.


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## Nordicus (May 3, 2013)

These models are really turning out very nice - Keep up the good work man!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks,

Dry Brushing:

Dry brushed bases with grey primer. Time to call it a night.......

http://i.imgur.com/6kCHeCC.jpg









G'night


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Mistakes were made:

Well my first attempt at wash was a wash out. Either I did not dilute it enough or I used the wrong wash but the Hive Tyrant has a bad case of Yellow Jaundice. Fortunately it is my experiment model so worst case scenario I strip and repaint it but since it's metal I'm not going to bother.

The Tyrgon will have to wait until I get the wash right.

Meanwhile the bases seem to have turned out okay:

http://i.imgur.com/TXpY8x3.jpg









In order of application:

A Black overall Prime

Grey Prime dry brushed

VA Game Color Cold Grey dry brush

" " " Bone White Highlight dry brush

VA Model Air Earth Brown Airbrushed fissures 

VA Game Color Bone White dry brush rock high lights.

http://i.imgur.com/lyNfwyp.jpg









Still have the Trygon mandibles to install but painting wise it's done except for the wash.

http://i.imgur.com/ry6fS2k.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/9QQ46jM.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

You're Taking Recycling Too Far Blackadder:

No, it's not what it looks like!

Looking for all the world like a dried meadow muffin but in point of fact a wall plaque with cork sheeting and detritus from the end of my driveway.

http://i.imgur.com/qetsBCC.jpg









Close up shows the fine sand, coarse sand and pea gravel used to add texture to the fissures

http://i.imgur.com/ODmGEUa.jpg









The Hierophant posed on all fours in this instance shows that even a base 12 inches in diameter is inadequate to display this sprawling Arthropod.

http://i.imgur.com/o3qLhrv.jpg









So the Hierophant is capable of assuming it's intended pose as well as the more dynamic one I prefer.

http://i.imgur.com/BbXSRGX.jpg









And the 'cow pie' in black prime.

http://i.imgur.com/Vh7nADb.jpg


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Trygon and Carnifax bases:

First the bases for the two smaller tyranids:

http://i.imgur.com/gqhO5RY.jpg









These ar pretty much done except for grasses and carnage.

http://i.imgur.com/68b2rwd.jpg









I was thinking a small toxic waste puddle in the center but the dry basin seems enough. I do need to make more skeletons....


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Lost in the Shuffle:

I took these images a week ago but forgot to post them:

http://i.imgur.com/XJMSB7y.jpg









A closeup of the base with assorted remains and a few Gargoyles:

http://i.imgur.com/VfrTOFQ.jpg









A few tufts of vegetation would not be amiss:

http://i.imgur.com/OUar94H.jpg










I greatly prefer this pose to the standard submissive one advocated by FW:

http://i.imgur.com/EVaYgAJ.jpg









Of course this type of lunging pose could not be maintained statically any more than a runner can sustain a full trot stance at any split second of his step cycle. It is an instant frozen in time:

http://i.imgur.com/y8nr30j.jpg


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## Relise (Nov 27, 2011)

Wow that is stunning!!


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

I've neglected this thread for over half a year; a belated thanks for the reply........

Helpful Harridan Hints:

So you bought yourself a Harridan, probably one of the easiest FW models to build but also one of the most easily broken.

Why, because of its size and the delicate nature of it's parts. The thinly constructed head and sinuous tail stuck out front and back. The talons hanging down ready to snag on a shirt sleeve and that ridiculous stand is an accident waiting to happen coupled with the thick humongous wings; it's totally top heavy.

Well today we are going to address these issues to save you a lot of grief later on when you use it in a game.

First the head:

http://i.imgur.com/03eV8Ws.jpg









I'm going to magnetize the head fastenings with two rare earth magnets one 2 MM thick for the head and one 3 MM thick for the neck. I used my Dremel and a drum cutter to cut a shallow well on the head about 2 MM deep. The head material is very thin so I dare not cut deeper than 2 MM. i cut a well 3 MM deep in the neck because the neck material is very thick. This will give a strong attachment but also allow the head to be removed for easy transport of this fragile Tyranid titan.

I put a spot of cyanoacrylate glue to temporarily affix the magnet to the head and neck because I want to see how the head is positioned and that the magnets meet flush before I permanently attach the magnets with epoxy.

http://i.imgur.com/9fr3ljk.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/MmHAORR.jpg









http://i.imgur.com/FQVP1xi.jpg









Well that's just about perfect; 

next the tail.


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## Iraqiel (May 21, 2008)

Great seeing progress, I think once you have finished a few of these projects you could compile them and publish them as a book. The quality of work that you present is outstanding.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

Thanks for the reply and I'm sure GW will be more than happy to allow me to capitalize on their products by publishing a 'How To' book. they're such a giving lot............

Lemme See Ya Shake Your Tail Feather:

The tail is much too long to attach with a magnet but fortunately there's a nice deep socket that it plugs into. It's supposed to be glued into that socket but I have a better way to mount it.

I drilled holes into the tail and the base and with a piece of ordinary coat hanger wire fashioned an internal clamp. Glue the wire into the base and plug in the tail. so it lines up but it's still loose in the socket.

http://i.imgur.com/QgQrmgz.jpg









Bend the wire slightly up so the tail plug is pressing on the top of the socket and there it is, a tight connection.

http://i.imgur.com/XyOVtIO.jpg









That can be easily removed for transport.

Next the wings.


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## Blackadder (Jun 28, 2009)

The Harridan Née Thunderhawk:

I call it that because as with the Thunderhawk the aerodynamics are suspect. In short it would be impossible for the Harridan to fly as it has neither shoulders nor sternum keel to anchor the flight muscles and the wings are kind of just stuck on through holes in the chitin.

But it's still a cool model.

So here's the completed model sans the brood gargoyles (I've yet to paint them) in natural light..........

http://i.imgur.com/Va4zAxp.jpg









and flash........

http://i.imgur.com/Gjhjq3t.jpg









I still have a lot of painting to do but I assembled it mainly with rods and plug ins to show the construction is stable without gluing together the pieces.

Now I can disassemble the components for the final painting.


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## CLT40k (Jun 18, 2010)

awesome work


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