# Best glue to use on GW clear parts



## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

Hey Heretics

Bit of an obvious question but thought I'd ask it anyway, following a conversation in the chat box.

As the title says - what is the best glue to use on the GW clear stands and canopies to avoid frosting but still give a good amount of strength to hold the flyer up?


----------



## Magpie_Oz (Jan 16, 2012)

Same glue as always. I use a Humbrol glue that has a long thin tube so you can apply it quite precisely.

Key is to not get any other than on the edge.


----------



## Tim/Steve (Jan 25, 2009)

poly-cement works fine but as said try not to get it on exposed surfaces (though ti doesn't really matter hugely). PVA is also fine for basing them.
The one glue you want to avoid is super glue. It'll leave white staining around the glue point as it dries (I use it occasionally when I pin broken stands... but best to be very very careful).


----------



## Magpie_Oz (Jan 16, 2012)

Tim/Steve said:


> The one glue you want to avoid is super glue. It'll leave white staining around the glue point as it dries (I use it occasionally when I pin broken stands... but best to be very very careful).


That must be the vapour that comes off it as it dries ?


----------



## bitsandkits (Mar 18, 2008)

Super glue is fine, i have been gluing eldar canopies in place since the nineties with super glue with out incident, if you get foggin and frosting then too much glue has been used.People forget that standard super glue has very low viscosity so the parts to be glued need to have a precise fit, so covering them with a thin film that dries almost on contact with the other surface is the key to a good superglue joint, the clear plastic parts in the recent flyers should be a perfect fit as they have been CAD produced so only the tiniest amoun of glue will be needed, this is the reason i tend to opt for brush on super glue rather than gels or tubes as you have far more control and if you want more control get a cocktail stick in on the action or even a needle, i also like to build large scale tall ships (hms victory/uss constitution type boats) so gluing is something i have become pretty good at over the years as some of the parts on those ships need very accurate glue joints and need to set up quickly and poly cement just would cut it.
you could also look for a glue called plastic weld, this is also a brush on cememnt,it works like other cements by melting the plastic a little to fuse the plastic together, except its like water, again its brush on and only reacts with the very top surface and evaporates quickly after contact so shouldnt effect the glass part.


----------



## Tim/Steve (Jan 25, 2009)

Magpie_Oz said:


> That must be the vapour that comes off it as it dries ?


Yeah, but as bits says, if you use a very little amount its not an issue... problem is that you might not know you've used too much till its too late. Better best avoided entirely if you have a half decent alternative... but it still works.


----------



## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

Tim/Steve said:


> problem is that you might not know you've used too much till its too lat


You could take pieces of the sprue the cockpit canopy came from and see what amount of superglue produces that cloudy residue. Just glue a piece of normal grey sprue to it with various amounts to see what happens.

When I used super glue on my Stormraven I didn't get the cloud effect but I still painted over the canopy. There's something about seeing a marine in there that absolutely ruins the scale of the model for me.


----------



## falcoso (Apr 7, 2012)

For clear plastic GW recomends PVa as it dries clear and is very strong, plastic glu is fine as long as you don't touch wear the glue is while it's dying as it will leave prints and other foggy marks.


----------



## Tim/Steve (Jan 25, 2009)

yeah, I'm thinking about doing something similar with my vendetta: I'm either going to leave it uncovered, just the frame or spray the canopy... I just don't like having 'glass' on a model.


----------



## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

I use pva since the bond does not have to be super tough since covers are non weight bearing.


----------

