# Dark Vengeance beginner blog



## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

Hello everyone, I just recently got into warhammer 40k and I picked up a Dark Vengeance set. 
I have already completed assembly, it was pretty easy as these models are snap fit. 










On the left is Dark Angels, and on the Right is Chaos.

Once assembled, I painted one of the bikes. I decided to start off with the Dark angels, because the chaos army just has too many little details for a beginner, and I want to actually build onto the chaos army, and so I want to start painting them once I have some experience. 

Here is my painted bike:



















I am an extremely slow painter, it took me a few days to paint that. I didnt paint constantly for those few days, only for like 30 minutes at a time, which might be why it took so long.

If anyone was wondering, I used apple barrel paints, and also one of the mettalic paints from folkart.


I also decided to create some scenery so me and my friend could play somewhat tactically, instead of just playing on a empty table.. It is not complete, I still have to base them, and add broken wires and moss and stuff.



















I decided to not glue the lid of the bunker down, just because it would be cool to place minis into the bunker during battle (if my oppenent allows it ).

I used foam board from dollarama to construct this, and patched up the sides and made it look a little rocky with the stuff you use to fix walls. I got plans off of the internet, meant for paper craft, but i just modified them a bit so I could use it with foam board.










The blocks are a bit oversized for the mini's, but no worries, it was pretty easy to make. I used a hot wire foam cutter to cut out random blocks out of a piece of styrofoam, and then just sanded to bits to make them somewhat the same. I had a hot wire foam cutter laying around because I also work on RC planes, but I am sure you could get decent results with a different type of knife.


These were not meant to look pretty, I just wanted some practice airbrushing, and learning some techniques.


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## Deneris (Jul 23, 2008)

MUCH better than when I started painting... keep up the good work! :so_happy:


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## Jacobite (Jan 26, 2007)

A very good start, I like what you have done with the wings and the light blue shading you have in there. One thing that will immediately make yours minis "ping" more imho is to paint the base rims black. It just gives it that finished/tidy look I think.


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

Thanks for the tip, I will paint it black tommorow morning.


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## Laerath (Jul 10, 2013)

Nice job I also used teh Dark Vengeance set to get into WH40K though I am only doing a project log of Chaos space marines.


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

Today I finished up another one of the bikes, the leader this time:




















I also finished veteran sergeant raphael:











And I also finished basing my bunker:











I would also like to share a technique for painting little symbols:

1. Dip your brush into the paint so about 75% of the bristles is in the paint
2. Scrape of the paint from the tip of the bristles ONLY, leaving the paint on the top part of the bristles on. 
3. Gently run the brush over the symbol you want to paint.
4. The paint on the top part of the bristles will hit the symbol, which is higher then the actual armor.
5.Clean up the outer edges of the symbol with wash that is slightly thicker then normal wash.


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## fatmantis (Jun 26, 2009)

good start so far... afew comments, your paint is way too thick in some places and way to thin in others, like the face.
its better to do lots of small thin layers than 1 fast 1.
you are on the right track, slow and steady wins the race.


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

OK, thank you for the tips


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

the paint seems quite glossy so my concern is that it might not be ideal for minis. I don't think you've overpainted, but if you look on the bald biker's chest medallion you see what I mean. Even thick layered mini paints will still keep detail. In that case all the detail is lost. I'd say definitely switch paints.

as for paint techniques...you'll def develop your own/favorite tricks, but easy money is on the classics. 1) undercoat 2) basecoat area X with color Y 3) use a wash over Y 4) edge highlight or drybrush over Y with a lighter version of Y or with Y + a bit of white.

this will get you results asap. also once you do a tester model, try batch painting: do all the same colours for like minis at once so you save time and paint by not having to prep the same paint every time you switch minis.

anyway keep up the good work and welcome to the hobby!


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## ntaw (Jul 20, 2012)

CubanNecktie said:


> Even thick layered mini paints will still keep detail. In that case all the detail is lost. I'd say definitely switch paints.


I would disagree with this, because you can definitely get globby results using GW paints that haven't been watered down properly. Before switching paints, try doing a practically 1:1 water to paint ratio on your palette and just working up in your consistency like that. It means you'll have to paint most areas over a time or two, but as long as you wait for the paint to dry between coats you will end up with a much thinner (no detail loss) and more consistent coating of paint on your models.


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## Djinn24 (Jan 12, 2008)

Like others have said thin your paints down some. Try to control where your wash is going a bit better. Seems to be all over the place on some parts. Overall though for being a new painter, good job. You definitely have talent to work with.


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

ntaw said:


> I would disagree with this, because you can definitely get globby results using GW paints that haven't been watered down properly. Before switching paints, try doing a practically 1:1 water to paint ratio on your palette and just working up in your consistency like that. It means you'll have to paint most areas over a time or two, but as long as you wait for the paint to dry between coats you will end up with a much thinner (no detail loss) and more consistent coating of paint on your models.


well if you put a glob of paint on anything you're going to end up with a glob of paint  what I meant to convey was that some paints (Citadel, P3, etc) are more conducive to hug details even if you overcoat...and I mean that relative to the paint that appears to be used here. in my opinion the amount of glossiness on some of the models speaks to more of an enamel paint. I've used many hobby and non-hobby acrylics and never ended up with that level of gloss/detail coverage. And judging by the paint spread between colours I doubt if even more than a single coat was used per layer.

anyway, long story short my vote is to try a paint that will lay in the cracks better even straight out of the pot (ex. a mini paint range). although, I do totally agree with the thinning and multi-coat approach. it definitely gives the final work depth and uniformity. i do use water sometimes, but lately I prefer thinning with a little bit of Citadel Lahmian Medium on a homemade wet palette. that usually gives it all the water I need.


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

Thank you for all the tips! The reason it might look glossy it that I used gloss varnish. It is not the fault of the paints. I tried to thin the varnish down by adding water to make it a little less glossy, but i guess I have learnt my lesson, and will buy matte varnish next time!


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

Nice work on the models you have done so far man. I have to agree about the thinning of the paint however. I started painting very similar to yours and always used the paint straight from the pot. I find that using a wet palette helps me alot when it comes to getting the right paint consistency as the paint doesnt actually dry on the palette. Second avoid gloss coats. I have almost all of my models gloss coated and I hate myself for it. it can take a really well painted model and ruin it in literally seconds. I forget the name of what i have started using instead but i will let you know once i find it again instead of a gloss varnish. Otherwise i know alot of guys(and gals) Swear by testors dullcote. keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing your progress mate.


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

Thank you swede marine

A friend of mine told me that this: http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/krylon-...=yes&fromSearchBox=true&addFacet=SRCH:varnish

would get rid of the gloss from the varnish, so you may be interested  Also, what do you guys mean by using a wet pallet? Just a pallet with water on it? 0.o


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## Deneris (Jul 23, 2008)

Just make sure it's matte :wink:

The Wet Palette:-

- Select a small shallow plastic/glass container (I use tupperware) that has a lid that forms a tight seal, preferably airtight.
- To this add two layers of white paper towels/serviettes. They have to be white with no colour at all. Otherwise when you use the palette any colour in the serviettes will show through.
- Thoroughly wet the serviettes with water until you have about a 1-2mm layer of water above the serviettes.
- Cut/rip enough baking paper (parchment paper) to cover the bottom of the container plus an additional 1cm around all of the sides. (If you don’t leave the extra then if you later move your palette or bump it the water will flow over the top of the baking paper and into your paint mix)
- Add paint and enjoy.

Wet Palette Tutorial


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## CubanNecktie (Nov 2, 2012)

Da_Naral said:


> Thank you swede marine
> 
> A friend of mine told me that this: http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/krylon-...=yes&fromSearchBox=true&addFacet=SRCH:varnish
> 
> would get rid of the gloss from the varnish, so you may be interested  Also, what do you guys mean by using a wet pallet? Just a pallet with water on it? 0.o


also dude, you don't really have to coat your models. if you have a decent foam storage system and you take good care of them, you don't need any varnish at all.

at the very most you can do it on parts of the models you will grab most during handling: shoulders, capes, base edge, but realistically one less step is a time saver.

good luck!


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

thank you denny, and CubanNecktie


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## SwedeMarine (Jun 3, 2013)

CubanNecktie said:


> also dude, you don't really have to coat your models. if you have a decent foam storage system and you take good care of them, you don't need any varnish at all.
> 
> at the very most you can do it on parts of the models you will grab most during handling: shoulders, capes, base edge, but realistically one less step is a time saver.
> 
> good luck!


I have to disagree. its almost essential to give them a coat. as cuban pointed out any place you touch your models will eventually show signs of wear no matter how good your foam is or how careful you are. The more games you play the more you will wear them down. that little hardened layer of varnish will keep your models looking freshly painted. but its is also entirely a personal preference.


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

I made another piece of scenery, this one you cant go into, just looks cool. Dont know how I will incorporate it into a game, so if anyone has idea's, I would love to hear them


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## Deneris (Jul 23, 2008)

You could add a "floor" under the upper windows, and models can "climb" up there as well as climbing to the roof. You can paint some string up to look like grappling ropes, and attach it in certain areas to make the building accessible...

You can also poke a few holes in the building to make bullet/shell damage...

And you can also paint chaos grafiti on the outer walls...


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## Da_Naral (Jul 23, 2013)

Thank you for the idea's 

I just painted this dreadnaught, wanted to test out my basing skills before using them on my dark vengance set.



















also finshed the librarian, I know it looks terrible, the white I used to prime it took too many layers and ruined the details.


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