# Lizardmen Army WiP



## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

Due to some personal issues, we haven't painted/converted/sculpted anything the last months. But, now we are back, and we hope, for long. Then, what we are going to show, is the WiP of our lizardmen army, that we just bought. We are planning to have this all done in 2 months at most.

This is the list the models:
2x slann (the one will be scratch built)
1x skink priest
1x ancient Stegadon (maybe a second one too)
85++ skinks
30 saurus warriors
3 terradons
3 salamanders h.p.s (the 1 pack will be sculpted by me,one this days)
16 chameleons

all the bases those models need, will be sculpted as temple stone work by Ogyon.


First of all, searching for the theme/painting scheme of my army, we tried some skinks. We decided to paint our army, like the blue with yellow eyes. But we will show you, all our tests we did, to find what suits us the most.



1) natural










 

2) natural with red scales










3) natural with blue scales










4) blue with red eye









  

5) blue with yellow eye










6) In flames














The blue skink, is the same model in either case. We just painted one of his eyes blue and the other red, so that to be able to choose.






And here is a try out on a salamander. Today it will be finished. We are about to use 3 salamander in my list. The third one will be sculpted by Ogyon. He's reached 70% of this task.

Salamander. We still have to paint teeth, eyes, the metal piece on the tail, and nails)









 


have fun!


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## Red Corsairs (Jun 8, 2008)

I'm really liking colour scheme 5) and 6). It's good to see some original colour schemes for Lizardmen. I look forward to watching your army progress as you're clearly talented at painting.

PS - Welcome to Heresy Online, I hope you enjoy your stay


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## Khorne's Fist (Jul 18, 2008)

Red Corsairs said:


> I'm really liking colour scheme 5) and 6).


Same here, with leaning more towards number 6. A whole army like that would be very striking.

Also, welcome to Heresy.


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

ty for your comments mates. Glad to find you here! 
Our only problem with model 6, is that, in our mind, if the whole army was like this, it could be boring. As on the other hand we love that scheme too. Anyway, we decided,yesterday, to go with model 5, as a theme for the skinks. The salamanders will be painted as the one showed (ok, we will finish teeth e.t.c. ofc lol). Yesterday Yria painted the first kroxigor. This was made in a natural deep green with brown, (trying to get the most of earth colour on that aligator-like mini) as well as with white highlights. What is left, is his back. We are not sure,yet if we want him to have a dark back or a pretty light one. I think today evening it will be ready, and if so, I 'll update our progress. 
As about the terradons, they will be painted in natural skin-grey tones, to clearly represent a dinosaur. 
Btw, yesterday I tried out a tray, to match the basing style, and I think it worked. I will shoot it today, so you tell me, if it really did.


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

the army is in a good progress. All skinks modeled. Trays finished. Everything pinned and 55/130 bases sculpted. I will just show a picture from a unit's bases in wip mode:











hope you like. (if anyone wants a tut on that task, although its really simple, I 'll be happy to make him one)


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## khrone forever (Dec 13, 2010)

could you make a tut on the basing, it looks awsome 

looking forward to more pics


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

sure mate. I 'll have it ready soon. Just starting it!


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

So here is a quick tutor on how I make my bases. I 'll try to give it as simple as I can so , even one has never 

sculpted anything, it won't be a problem for him to follow. (I know my english stink, but I try my best)

1) my tools:









I forgot to shoot a pen, but I think you 'll get it on the next pic. Maybe here one could ask why I use FIMO instead 

of GS. Well IMO FIMO is the best sculpting material, while on the other hand GS sucks. FIMO is soft, really easy to 

sculpt high detail, and most important that it doesn't set on its own. On the other hand, GS a)is hard (even if you 

use vaseline), b) has tension (when you push it to get detail it somehow wants to come back to previous state) so 

you can't easily get high detail, c) while it sets on its own in about 40 mins, so you must haste your sculpting as 

well as you cannot fix something after hours. (Ok maybe for bases GS is fine, but to sculpt minis I find it awfull)
btw another advantage of FIMO is that you don't waste material as you can use later the amount of material that 

surpluses of use. 
The tools are dentist's tools. Everyone uses what fits him best so you don't have to find the exact ones I show. 


2)sketching the carton:


















I use the base as a stencil, upside down, as its conical, and I don't want my base to overextend. 

3)Applying FIMO on carton:

















-Warm up an amount of FIMO by pressing it with your hands. 
-Then press it over your sketch on your carton. 
-Cut the FIMO with your modeling knife on the sketched lines. 

4)Groove the pattern:










Groove the stone (or whatever) pattern on the surface with your modeling knife. 

5)Wide Groove:









Make your pattern wide enough with a nonsharp sculpting tool

6)Smooth Edges:









Smooth the edges with a flat tool 

7)Apply damage:









Apply same weathering damage to the stone work with the flat tool (or anyting that you are comfortable to do so 

with)

8)Cracks:









Groove some cracks with your modeling knife. (sorry but I didn't shoot them good enough, and I found that out, when 

I finished it)

9)Baking the cookies:

Bake your FIMO for 20-25 mins in 135C. So that you don't get to spend much energy on that task, it's better that you 

sculpt many bases and then cook them all together.Be sure to check your oven before cooking your final product. 

Many ovens aren't precise. So you may melt your model. Ok for a base, this is not a problem, but if you are 

sculpting a miniature, it will be a catastrophy spending more than 50 hours on your mini, and watch it melt in the 

oven. The best oven for that task is the one that bakes with the use of hot air. It's precise, doesn't spend much 

energy, and it doesn't need preheating. 

10) Glue









(I'm showing a previously made base, as I won't cook a solo base, sorry)
Glue your baked base with superglue on a GW base. 

The procedure, if you get used to first steps of sculpting, will take you about 3-6mins per base. Hope I helped enough. If you need anything else on that task, just ask me. 
Enjoy!







EDIT: I just made a new thread, including this tutorial, in the tutorial section. By the time, the mods allow my new post to be visible, I 'll delete this last post and just show a redirection link to the new post. Sorry for the mess, but I 'm new to the forum, so I haven't seen the tutorial forum before posting this.


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## khrone forever (Dec 13, 2010)

thanks a lot dude, this will be very usefull


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## Hellados (Sep 16, 2009)

I'm loving the models and the bases, my favourite is 3 and 6.

Welcome to the board, it's a very good thing that you have more reputation then you have threads made by the way 

PS I have seen a lot worse done to the English language from the colonies hehehehehe


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## cirs85 (Nov 9, 2011)

#6 has my vote, the skink looks amazing, i think a wash on the gold would bring out the detail. Great tut on the bases, they look great!


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

thank you mates for your comments and giving us reputation as well. 
Polling those models' shemes on 4 different forums, the 5th one won. So we have started painting our skinks like that. The 6th one came second with a tiny difference in score. 

btw sure we 'll wash that gold. It is just that we rushed the model to get a result on the skin. I mean, we just painted gold with silver highlight, so just not to leave it with the undercoat. But, the "real" models will have a better job done on those weapons. 

Have Fun!


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

Welcome to Heresy, as you have seen already, you have people supporting you already!

Awesome work here Yria&Ogyon, I particularly like #'s 4 and 6, 6 probably being my fav. As for your basing tut, excellent idea....good job!

Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

Regards,
DoE


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

I made a skirmish tray today. So I shoot some pics while making it. So I used those, to make a simple tutor, as one may like this style on making trays. Hope you like it, and most of it, that the tutor is helpful:

(For ppl that play only 40k, skirmish is a unit that it's models must have a coherency of 1/2", instead of all models touching each other, like in normal units of fantasy). It's a pitty that I forgot to shoot some stages, but, they are easy to understand.


1) Wood for base









-Count the unit's external measurements.
-Add 10mm to those numbers. 
-Cut a piece of wood, in the exact measurements that you need. That wood will be the base.

2) Foam









Cut some pieces of foam 5mm width and length more than what you need, to secure that you get what you need. The foam 

I use is Selitron 6mm. One can cut this easily with a model knife. 

3) Glue borders









Glue the foam pieces to create the borders of your tray. To glue foam on wood, one should use PVA glue.

4) Mid piece









-Cut a piece of foam for the mid piece. Will be easy to measure precisely if you use two bases and count the space. 
-Insert 4 bases like on the pic, to center the piece when you want to glue it on the wood. 

5) Separators









cut 8 same pieces. Glue them to create the 10 spaces you need. If you use bases to make the spacing, will make your life easier. 

6) Walls
(I forgot to shoot that step)
Cut some pieces of 2mm foam, and glue them, in a way that you will cover all the external walls of the tray, so that the wood won't be seen from the outside. Nothing special here. Just hiding the wood.

7) Grooving









Groove the stonework with your model knife and then using a pen, you will make it wider. You can always make some cracks and damage with the same tools. 

8) Done


















When you need to undercoat your tray, use water-based acrylic emulsion paint (the one we use to paint walls). Never use spray on foam. It will melt it, and ruin your work. 

Enjoy!


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## elmir (Apr 14, 2011)

Brilliant bases. I somehow only just discovered this plog, but I like what I see. 

Should you not have decided on your colourscheme, my vote would also go to 5-6. Given the neutral colour of the bases, I think 6 might just come out slightly over 5 as an eye catcher.

Also, bright colours tend to be associated with venomous creatures, so that's another plus for 6 in my book. Also... I'm going to steal this layout for my own skirmishers in the future. Thanks for that tutorial. +rep


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## Inari82 (Dec 6, 2011)

Wow, you make the tuts easy to understand, kinda makes me want to start a fantasy army just so I can try some of these out. Sadly I have not only a Sisters army to finish, but another 40k army after that. Perhaps by then I'll have an idea on what exactly I want to do for a fantasy army. But I'll be keeping an eye on this for more tips.


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## Go0se (Apr 14, 2010)

Love your work on the bases and skirmish tray mate. Cant wait to see them finished! Have some rep


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## KjellThorngaard (Oct 4, 2010)

Nice looking models. It will be cool to see more. +Rep for the tutorials on the basing. Some nice tips many people here can use. And welcome!


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

thank you guys for your support and reputation as well. I 'll update my work asap. (well after finishing the steamtank for my mate).


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## bitsandkits (Mar 18, 2008)

excellent painting and great tutorial for bases. have a chunk of rep

can i suggest using plasticard for the base of the tray, its lighter and easier to cut than plywood but very strong, also its not as thick (1mm would work)


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

bitsandkits said:


> excellent painting and great tutorial for bases. have a chunk of rep
> 
> can i suggest using plasticard for the base of the tray, its lighter and easier to cut than plywood but very strong, also its not as thick (1mm would work)


Thank you mate. I appreciate it. 

I don't use plastic card as it's really expensive in addition to plywood. And I got an electric saw to cut the plywood, too, so it's easy for me. (anyone can cut the same with a handsaw as well, or order it cut from the hardware shop). But, I have made in the past, some trays made of plastic card 1mm, for a commission, and yeap, it worked really fine. So whoever can afford it, ofc he can use that intead of plywood. 

(btw I have got tons of plywood 3mm thick, as I got some large sleeves of that thing, to make the bases of terrains).


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

Thought we should take a break painting those skinks. So I (Ogyon) started sculpting the salamander we miss in our army (we bought 2/3). Here is the result of the first few hours on that model. Nothing special. Just the armature:


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## Meldon (Dec 21, 2010)

As a total sculpting novice it´s fun to see all the steps involved in sculpting a minature, Keep it up!


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## yoyoyo12365 (Dec 6, 2010)

I definitely like number 5... Also, I'm very glad to see a Plog about Lizardmen, as I recently had the opportunity to start an army of them myself.
I must also thank you for the great basing tutorial. Very Lizardmen-y.


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## Disciple_of_Ezekiel (May 23, 2010)

So far so good Orygon. We all have to start from somewhere and you basic outline so far for the salamander looks good!


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## Yria&Ogyon (Dec 21, 2011)

thank you mates for your support. 
I can take more pic in the progress of sculpting that mini if one wants to c the steps. (though in that case I should shoot the wire-armature making e.t.c. but, ok I will do so, in my next mini - Slann on fire - ). BTW I 'm also finishing the sculpting of a champion I love in the PC game LoL. When I will finish that and Yria will paint it, I will post some pictures of that WiP.


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